Notable First Ascents (sport Climbing)
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rock climbing Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and ...
, a
first free ascent In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they en ...
(FFA) is the first
redpoint Redpoint ( gd, An Rubha Dearg) is a small settlement in the north west of Highland, Scotland. It takes its name from Red Point, a low promontory to the south, which marks a turn in the coastline from facing west to south east as it becomes Loc ...
,
onsight __NOTOC__ This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases d ...
or
flash Flash, flashes, or FLASH may refer to: Arts, entertainment, and media Fictional aliases * Flash (DC Comics character), several DC Comics superheroes with super speed: ** Flash (Barry Allen) ** Flash (Jay Garrick) ** Wally West, the first Kid ...
of a single-pitch, multi-pitch (or
big wall Big wall climbing is a type of rock climbing where a climber ascends a long multi-pitch route, normally requiring more than a single day to complete the climb. Big wall routes require the climbing team to live on the route often using portaledges ...
), or
boulder In geology, a boulder (or rarely bowlder) is a rock fragment with size greater than in diameter. Smaller pieces are called cobbles and pebbles. While a boulder may be small enough to move or roll manually, others are extremely massive. In c ...
climbing route A climbing route is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain, rock, or ice wall. Routes can vary dramatically in difficulty and grade; once committed to that ascent, it can sometimes be difficult to stop or return. Choice of rout ...
that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent must therefore be performed in either a
sport Sport pertains to any form of Competition, competitive physical activity or game that aims to use, maintain, or improve physical ability and Skill, skills while providing enjoyment to participants and, in some cases, entertainment to specta ...
, a
traditional A tradition is a belief or behavior (folk custom) passed down within a group or society with symbolic meaning or special significance with origins in the past. A component of cultural expressions and folklore, common examples include holidays or ...
, or a
free solo Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of technical ice or rock climbing where the climbers (or ''free soloists'') climb alone without ropes, harnesses or other protective equipment, forcing them to rely entirely on their own individual ...
manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated absolute-
grade Grade most commonly refers to: * Grade (education), a measurement of a student's performance * Grade, the number of the year a student has reached in a given educational stage * Grade (slope), the steepness of a slope Grade or grading may also ref ...
milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional climbing, free solo climbing, onsighted, and flashed ascents, are also listed. A route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated the route to have a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, '' Realization'' was considered the world's first , however, the first repeat of the 1996 route ', which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first . ''Open Air'' has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas ''Realization'' has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Therefore, where known, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ranked candidates are also chronicled. As of December 2023, the hardest single-pitch redpoint was at the grade of for men and for women. The hardest onsight was at the grade of for men and for women. The hardest boulder solved was at the boulder grade of for men and for women. The hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) redpoint was at the grade of . The hardest single-pitch free solo was at the grade of , and the hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) free solo was at .


Single-pitch routes


Redpointed by men

: :* ''Silence'' (also ''Project Hard'') –
Flatanger Flatanger is a List of municipalities of Norway, municipality in Trøndelag Counties of Norway, county, Norway. It is part of the Namdalen Districts of Norway, region. The administrative centre of the municipality is the village of Lauvsnes. Othe ...
( NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route. Remains unrepeated (September 2023). :*' –
Verdon Gorge The Verdon Gorge ( French: ''Gorges du Verdon'') is a river canyon located in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of Southeastern France. It is about 25 km (15.5 mi) long and up to 700 metres (0.4 mi) deep. It was formed by the ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by
Sébastien Bouin Sébastien Bouin, nicknamed Seb Bouin, (born 7 April 1993) is a French rock climber born in Draguignan. By 2022, Bouin was regarded as one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, being only the second-ever climber to establish a route gra ...
who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to '' Bibliographie'', ''Move'', ''Beyond ntegral', it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Remains unrepeated (September 2023). :* ''B.I.G.'' (also ''Project Big'') –
Flatanger Flatanger is a List of municipalities of Norway, municipality in Trøndelag Counties of Norway, county, Norway. It is part of the Namdalen Districts of Norway, region. The administrative centre of the municipality is the village of Lauvsnes. Othe ...
( NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by
Jakob Schubert Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. He was World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in Lead climbing. He has redpointed to . In August 2 ...
, who worked on the route with
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
, and after consulting with Ondra, proposed 9c on the basis it was "definitely harder" than ''Perfecto Mundo''–a "benchmark" 9b+. Remains unrepeated (September 2023). : :*' –
Flatanger Flatanger is a List of municipalities of Norway, municipality in Trøndelag Counties of Norway, county, Norway. It is part of the Namdalen Districts of Norway, region. The administrative centre of the municipality is the village of Lauvsnes. Othe ...
( ) – October 4, 2012 – First-ever 9b+, by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
; grade confirmed by
Stefano Ghisolfi Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber and sport climber. He participates in international climbing competitions in three disciplines: lead, bouldering, and speed, and has had his best results in lead cli ...
(2020). The third ascent was by Seb Bouin (2022), who felt that the use of a
kneebar A leglock is a joint lock that is directed at joints of the leg such as the ankle, knee or hip joint. A leglock which is directed at joints in the foot, is sometimes referred to as a foot lock and a lock at the hip as a hip lock. Leglocks are featu ...
made the grade closer to (5.15b/c). :* ''
La Dura Dura ''La Dura Dura'' is a sport climbing route on the limestone cliffs at Peramola, a village in Oliana, Spain. The route was bolted and developed by American climber Chris Sharma in 2009 who had almost given up believing he could climb it until a co ...
'' –
Oliana Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir. There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – February 7, 2013 – Second-ever 9b+, by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
; first-ever 9b+ repeat by
Chris Sharma Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
(2013). :* ''Vasil Vasil'' – Moravský Kras ( CZE) – December 4, 2013 – Third-ever 9b+, by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
. Remains unrepeated (June 2023). :*''Perfecto Mundo'' –
Margalef Margalef is a village in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated on the edge of Montsant and is a popular ecotourism destination, especially among rock climbers Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural r ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – May 9, 2018 – Fourth 9b+, by
Alexander Megos Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to on-sight (climb on the first try without prior practice or advice) a route graded . He has completed multiple routes and boulder problems that are not ...
; repeat by
Stefano Ghisolfi Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber and sport climber. He participates in international climbing competitions in three disciplines: lead, bouldering, and speed, and has had his best results in lead cli ...
(2018), and
Jakob Schubert Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. He was World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in Lead climbing. He has redpointed to . In August 2 ...
(2019); considered a "benchmark" 9b+ route. : :* ''
Jumbo Love ''Jumbo Love'' is a long sport climbing route on remote limestone cliffs on Clark Mountain in the Mojave Desert. Bolted by American climber Randy Leavitt in the 1990s, he invited Chris Sharma to attempt it in 2007. When Sharma completed the ...
'' – Clark Mountain ( US) – September 11, 2008 – First-ever , by
Chris Sharma Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
. Repeated by
Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle (born May 30, 1986, in San Francisco, California) is an United States of America, American rock climbing, rock climber with notable ascents in bouldering, sport climbing and traditional climbing. Notable ascents Sport climbing * 5. ...
(2015),
Jonathan Siegrist Jonathan may refer to: *Jonathan (name), a masculine given name Media *Jonathan (1970 film), ''Jonathan'' (1970 film), a German film directed by Hans W. Geißendörfer *Jonathan (2016 film), ''Jonathan'' (2016 film), a German film directed by ...
(2018), and Seb Bouin (2022). :* ' – Siurana (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – December 17, 2008 – Second-ever , by
Chris Sharma Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
. First-ever 9b repeat by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
(2010) (was Ondra's first 9b). :* ''Neanderthal'' –
Santa Linya Les Avellanes i Santa Linya is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of Noguera, in the province of Lleida, Catalonia Catalonia (; ca, Catalunya ; Aranese Occitan: ''Catalonha'' ; es, Cataluña ) is an autonomous community of Spain, designa ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – December 18, 2009 – Third-ever , by
Chris Sharma Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
. Repeated by
Jakob Schubert Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. He was World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in Lead climbing. He has redpointed to . In August 2 ...
(2018), and
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
(2019). : :* ' – Schleier Waterfall (
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) *Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations *Arriva ...
) – 1996 – First ascent by
Alexander Huber Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968), is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He became a professional climber in 1997, and was widely regarded as the world's strongest climber in the late-1990s, and is an important figure in rock climbin ...
, who proposed ; it has only been repeated once in 2008 by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
who felt it was , but the breaking of holds means it is uncertain whether Ondra did the same route. :* ''Mutation'' – Raven Tor,
Peak District The Peak District is an upland area in England at the southern end of the Pennines. Mostly in Derbyshire Derbyshire ( ) is a ceremonial county in the East Midlands, England. It includes much of the Peak District National Park, the southe ...
( ENG) – 1998 – First ascent by
Steve McClure Steve McClure (born 25 July 1970) is a British rock climber and climbing author, who is widely regarded as Britain's leading and most important sport climber for a period that extends for over two decades, starting from the late 1990s. In 2017, h ...
, who graded it . Will Bosi completed the first repeat in October 2021 and suggested the route is , or even harder. :* '' Realization'' –
Céüse Céüse (french: Montagne de Céüse) is a limestone mountain in the Hautes-Alpes ''département'' of France near Gap and Sigoyer. The "Pic de Céüse" is at an elevation of , and the whole massif is included in the Natura 2000 protected area. ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – July 2001 – First ascent by
Chris Sharma Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
. First consensus in history. :* '' La Rambla'' – Siurana (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – March 2003 – First ascent by
Ramón Julián Puigblanqué Ramón Julián Puigblanque (also known as Ramonet, which means ''little Ramon'' in Catalan language; born November 9, 1981, in Vic) is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two World Championships, ...
. Second consensus in history. : :* '' Action Directe'' –
Frankenjura Franconian Switzerland (german: Fränkische Schweiz) is an upland in Upper Franconia, Bavaria, Germany and a popular tourist retreat. Located between the River Pegnitz in the east and the south, the River Regnitz in the west and the River Main i ...
( ) – 1991 – First-ever consensus 9a in history, by
Wolfgang Güllich Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992) was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing for most of the decade after his ...
, who originally graded it 8c+ (it held back other potential 9as), but it is now the "benchmark" for 9a. :* ''Om'' – Schleier Waterfall (
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) *Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations *Arriva ...
) – 1992 – Second-ever consensus 9a in history, by
Alexander Huber Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968), is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He became a professional climber in 1997, and was widely regarded as the world's strongest climber in the late-1990s, and is an important figure in rock climbin ...
. :* ' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – 1993 – Third-ever consensus 9a in history, by
Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is consi ...
. :* ''
Hugh Hugh may refer to: *Hugh (given name) Noblemen and clergy French * Hugh the Great (died 956), Duke of the Franks * Hugh Magnus of France (1007–1025), co-King of France under his father, Robert II * Hugh, Duke of Alsace (died 895), modern-day ...
'' – Les Eaux-Claires (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1993 – Fourth-ever consensus 9a in history, by
Fred Rouhling Fred Rouhling (born 24 January 1970) is a French rock climber and boulderer, noted for creating and repeating some of the earliest grade sport climbing routes in the world, including ''Hugh'' in 1993, the first-ever French sport route. Rouhlin ...
. : :* ''Liquid Ambar'' – Pen Trwyn, (
WAL WAL or Wal may refer to: Places * Wał, Lublin Voivodeship, village in eastern Poland * Wał, Masovian Voivodeship, village in east-central Poland * Wales, constituent nation of the United Kingdom * Wallonia, Walloon Region of Belgium * Wallops F ...
) – May 1990 – First ascent by
Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the ...
who graded , but subsequent repeats have regraded it to 8c+. :* ''
Hubble The Hubble Space Telescope (often referred to as HST or Hubble) is a space telescope that was launched into low Earth orbit in 1990 and remains in operation. It was not the first space telescope, but it is one of the largest and most versa ...
'' – Raven Tor,
Peak District The Peak District is an upland area in England at the southern end of the Pennines. Mostly in Derbyshire Derbyshire ( ) is a ceremonial county in the East Midlands, England. It includes much of the Peak District National Park, the southe ...
( ENG) – June 1990 – Considered first-ever consensus in history, by Ben Moon; later considered a possible first 8c+/9a, or even the first-ever 9a. :* ''Just Do It'' –
Smith Rocks Smith Rocks () is a group of rocks lying northeast of Canopus Islands, west of Kitney Island, southwest of Wiltshire Rocks, and northwest of Paterson Islands, in the east part of Holme Bay, Mac. Robertson Land. Mapped by Norwegian cartograp ...
, ( US) – 1992 – Considered second-ever consensus in history (after ''Hubble''), by
Jean-Baptiste Tribout Jean-Baptiste Tribout, or J.B. Tribout (born 14 December 1961) is a French rock climber and sport climber. Climbing history Tribout started climbing aged seven in Fontainebleau, France with his grandfather, a mountaineer, and also joined the you ...
. :* ''Super Plafond'' –
Volx Volx (; oc, Vòus) is a commune in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Population See also * Coteaux de Pierrevert AOC * Luberon The Luberon ( or ; Provençal: ''Leberon ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1994 – Considered third-ever consensus in history, by
Jean-Baptiste Tribout Jean-Baptiste Tribout, or J.B. Tribout (born 14 December 1961) is a French rock climber and sport climber. Climbing history Tribout started climbing aged seven in Fontainebleau, France with his grandfather, a mountaineer, and also joined the you ...
. : :* ' –
Frankenjura Franconian Switzerland (german: Fränkische Schweiz) is an upland in Upper Franconia, Bavaria, Germany and a popular tourist retreat. Located between the River Pegnitz in the east and the south, the River Regnitz in the west and the River Main i ...
( DEU) – 1987 – First-ever consensus in history, by
Wolfgang Güllich Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992) was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing for most of the decade after his ...
. :* ''Anaïs et le canabis'' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – 1988 – Second-ever consensus in history, by
Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is consi ...
. :* ''Agincourt'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1989 – Third-ever consensus in history, by Ben Moon. :* ''Maginot Line (Plafond)'' –
Volx Volx (; oc, Vòus) is a commune in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Population See also * Coteaux de Pierrevert AOC * Luberon The Luberon ( or ; Provençal: ''Leberon ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1989 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, by Ben Moon. : :* ''Punks in the Gym'' –
Mount Arapiles Mount Arapiles is a rock formation that rises about above the Wimmera plains in western Victoria, Australia. It is located in Arapiles approximately west of the town of Natimuk and is part of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park. Arapile ...
( AUS) – 1985 – First-ever consensus in history, by
Wolfgang Güllich Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992) was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing for most of the decade after his ...
. :* ''La Rage de Vivre'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1986 – Second-ever consensus in history, by . :* ''To Bolt or Not to Be'' –
Smith Rocks Smith Rocks () is a group of rocks lying northeast of Canopus Islands, west of Kitney Island, southwest of Wiltshire Rocks, and northwest of Paterson Islands, in the east part of Holme Bay, Mac. Robertson Land. Mapped by Norwegian cartograp ...
, ( US) – 1986 – Third-ever consensus in history, by
Jean-Baptiste Tribout Jean-Baptiste Tribout, or J.B. Tribout (born 14 December 1961) is a French rock climber and sport climber. Climbing history Tribout started climbing aged seven in Fontainebleau, France with his grandfather, a mountaineer, and also joined the you ...
. :* ''Le Minimum'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1986 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, by . : :* ''Kanal im Rücken'' –
Frankenjura Franconian Switzerland (german: Fränkische Schweiz) is an upland in Upper Franconia, Bavaria, Germany and a popular tourist retreat. Located between the River Pegnitz in the east and the south, the River Regnitz in the west and the River Main i ...
( DEU) – 1984 – First-ever consensus in history, by
Wolfgang Güllich Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992) was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing for most of the decade after his ...
. :* ''Les Mans Sales'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1985 – Second-ever consensus in history, by . :* ''Le fluide enchanté'' –
Mouriès Mouriès (; oc, Moriés, ) is a commune in the Bouches-du-Rhône department in southern France. Population Economy Mouriès is known for its olive oil production, calling itself "the olive oil capital of France" (a claim disputed by Nyons ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1985 – Third-ever consensus in history, by . :* ''La Rose et le Vampire'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1985 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, and iconic route, by . :*' –
Altmühltal Altmühltal (lit.: "Altmühl valley") is a ''Verwaltungsgemeinschaft'' (federation of municipalities) in the district of Weißenburg-Gunzenhausen in Bavaria in Germany. It consists of the following municipalities:DEU) – 1983 – First-ever consensus in history, by
Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the ...
. :* ''Le Bidule'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1984 – Second-ever consensus in history, by .


Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre ''The Face'' are
traditional climbing Traditional climbing (or Trad climbing) is a style of rock climbing in which the climber places all the necessary protection gear required to arrest any falls as they are climbing, and then removes it when the pitch is complete (often done ...
routes: :*''Grand Illusion'' – Sugar Loaf,
Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe (; was, Dáʔaw, meaning "the lake") is a Fresh water, freshwater lake in the Sierra Nevada (U.S.), Sierra Nevada of the United States. Lying at , it straddles the state line between California and Nevada, west of Carson City, Nevad ...
, CA ( US) – 1979 – First-ever consensus in history, by . :*''Cosmic Debris''--Yosemite Valley, CA (US)--May, 1980--Early 8a led by Bill Price. :*''Sphinx Crack--''South Platte, CO (US)--April, 1981--Early 8a led by Steve Hong. :*''13 Boulevard du Vol'' – Rochers de Freyr, (
BEL BEL can be an abbreviation for: * The ISO 3166-1 alpha-3 country code for Belgium * ''BEL'' or bell character in the C0 control code set * Belarusian language, in the ISO 639-2 and SIL country code lists * Bharat Electronics Limited, an Indian stat ...
) – 1981 – Early consensus , by Arnould t'Kint. :*''Grand Illusion'' – Sugar Loaf,
Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe (; was, Dáʔaw, meaning "the lake") is a Fresh water, freshwater lake in the Sierra Nevada (U.S.), Sierra Nevada of the United States. Lying at , it straddles the state line between California and Nevada, west of Carson City, Nevad ...
, CA ( US) – 1982 – Early consensus , by
Wolfgang Güllich Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992) was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing for most of the decade after his ...
. :*''La Crépinette'' – Les Eaux-Claires (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1983 – Early consensus in history, by Fabrice Guillot (and first 8a in France). :*''The Phoenix'' –
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
, CA ( US) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus in history, by
Ray Jardine Ray Jardine (born in 1944) is an American rock climber who, along with Bill Price, in May 1979, was the first to free climb the ''West Face'' of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. Jardine is also a mountaineer, sea kayaker, sailor, hang glider pilot, s ...
(used his new cams). :*''Le Toit'' – Baou de Quatre Ouro (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus in history, by
Patrick Edlinger Patrick Edlinger (15 June 1960 – 16 November 2012) was a professional French rock climber. Edlinger is considered a pioneer and a legend of sport climbing. He was the second-ever climber in history to ascend routes of grade with ''Nymphodal ...
. :*''Le Haine'' –
La Turbie La Turbie (; oc, A Torbia; in Italian "Turbia" from ''tropea'', Latin for trophy) is a commune in the Alpes-Maritimes department in southeastern France. History La Turbie was famous in Roman times for the large monument, the Trophy of Augus ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus in history, by
Patrick Berhault Patrick Berhault (19 July 1957 – 28 April 2004) was a professional French free climber, mountaineer and mountain guide. He died while climbing Dom ridge, Switzerland, during his attempt to do an enchainment of all 82 Alpine 4,000-metere su ...
. :*''Chimpanzodrome'' – Le Saussois (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier. :*''Psycho Roof'' –
Eldorado El Dorado (, ; Spanish for "the golden"), originally ''El Hombre Dorado'' ("The Golden Man") or ''El Rey Dorado'' ("The Golden King"), was the term used by the Spanish in the 16th century to describe a mythical tribal chief (''zipa'') or king o ...
, CO ( US) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975. :*''The Pirate'' – Suicide Rock, CA – ( US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Tony Yaniro. :*''Iron Cross'' – Shawangunks, NY –( US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by John Bragg. :*''Genesis'' – Eldorado, CO – ( US) – 1979 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Jim Collins. :*''Nymphodalle'' – Les Calanques (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus in history, by
Patrick Edlinger Patrick Edlinger (15 June 1960 – 16 November 2012) was a professional French rock climber. Edlinger is considered a pioneer and a legend of sport climbing. He was the second-ever climber in history to ascend routes of grade with ''Nymphodal ...
. :*''Equinox'' –
Joshua Tree ''Yucca brevifolia'' is a plant species belonging to the genus ''Yucca''. It is tree-like in habit, which is reflected in its common names: Joshua tree, yucca palm, tree yucca, and palm tree yucca. This monocotyledonous tree is native to the ar ...
( US) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus climbs in history, by . :*''Chasin' the trane'' –
Frankenjura Franconian Switzerland (german: Fränkische Schweiz) is an upland in Upper Franconia, Bavaria, Germany and a popular tourist retreat. Located between the River Pegnitz in the east and the south, the River Regnitz in the west and the River Main i ...
( GER) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus climbs in history, by
John Bachar John Bachar (March 23, 1957 – July 5, 2009) was an American rock climber. Noted for his skill at free soloing, he ultimately died during a free solo climb. A fitness fanatic, he was the creator of the climbing training device known as the Bach ...
. :*''Paisano Overhang'' –
Suicide Rock Suicide Rock (once Suicide Peak) is a granite outcrop () near Idyllwild, California, which is popular with rock climbers. Over three hundred climbing routes have been described. It is located near Tahquitz Peak. According to legend, the name of ...
, ( US) – 1974 – First-ever consensus climbs, by John Long. :*''Super Crack'' – Shawangunks, ( US) – 1974 Oct – Long considered the first-ever consensus by Steve Wunsch. :*''Super Crack'' – Shawangunks, ( US) – 1977 – First-ever repeat of a consensus , by
Ron Kauk Ron Kauk (born 23 September 1957) is an American rock climber. Kauk is associated with Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley, where he lived for decades, now a resident of El Portal, California. In 1975, he made the first free ascent of the east face of Wa ...
. :*''English Hanging Gardens'' – Big Rock, Lake Perris, California, ( US) – 1970 – Regraded as possible first in history, by John Gosling. :*''Kansas City'' – Shawangunks, NY ( US) – 1973 – One of the first-ever 5.12b/c climbs in history, by John Bragg. :*''Constable's Overhang'' – Wilton, (ENG) – 1973 – Possible early 7b (5.12b), as is graded "hard" E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill. :*''Fish Crack'' –
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
( US) – 1975 May – One of the first-ever climbs in history, by Henry Barber. :*''Hot Line'' –
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
( US) – 1975 – One of the first-ever climbs in history, by
Ron Kauk Ron Kauk (born 23 September 1957) is an American rock climber. Kauk is associated with Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley, where he lived for decades, now a resident of El Portal, California. In 1975, he made the first free ascent of the east face of Wa ...
, and
John Bachar John Bachar (March 23, 1957 – July 5, 2009) was an American rock climber. Noted for his skill at free soloing, he ultimately died during a free solo climb. A fitness fanatic, he was the creator of the climbing training device known as the Bach ...
(both led). :*''Thimble'' – Needles, SD, ( US) – 1961 – First-ever in history, by
John Gill John Gill may refer to: Sports *John Gill (cricketer) (1854–1888), New Zealand cricketer *John Gill (coach) (1898–1997), American football coach *John Gill (footballer, born 1903), English professional footballer *John Gill (American football) ...
. Free soloed. :*''Macabre Roof-''-Ogden, Utah, (US)--1967--First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by
Greg Lowe Greg Lowe (born in Pittsburgh) is a noted mountain climber, photographer, Academy Award nominated cinematographer, and co-founder of Lowe Alpine, along with his brothers Jeff and Mike Lowe. Lowe invented the internal frame backpack. He establis ...
. :*''Orchrist'' – Almscliff, (ENG) – July 1973 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill. :*''The Throne'' – Shawangunks, NY ( US) – 1973 – Very early climb, led by John Stannard. :*''Footless Crow'' – Goat Crag, Borrowdale, (ENG) – April 19, 1974 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by
Pete Livesey Pete Livesey (12 December 1943 to 26 February 1998), was an English rock climber who raised the standard of technical difficulty in traditional climbing in Britain during the early to mid-1970s. Livesey was renowned for the intensity and competi ...
. :*''Goliath'' –
Burbage South Edge Burbage Rocks is a gritstone escarpment in South Yorkshire, overlooking the village of Hathersage in the Peak District. The highest point along the escarpment is above sea level, whilst Burbage Moor rises above to . Burbage Rocks is a southern e ...
, ( ENG) – 1958 – Possible first-ever at E4 6a (6c+ to 7a), by
Don Whillans Donald Desbrow Whillans (18 May 1933 – 4 August 1985) was an English rock climber and mountaineer. He climbed with Joe Brown and Chris Bonington on many new routes, and was considered the technical equal of both. Early life Born and brought ...
. :*''Vulcan'' –
Tremadog Tremadog (formerly Tremadoc) is a village in the community of Porthmadog, in Gwynedd, north west Wales; about north of Porthmadog town-centre. It was a planned settlement, founded by William Madocks, who bought the land in 1798. The centre of ...
, (WAL) – 1962 – Possible first-ever at E4 6a (6c+ to 7a), by Barry Brewster. :*''Foops'' – Shawangunks, NY ( US) – 1967 October – Often considered a first-ever consensus , by John Stannard. :*''Messner Slab'' – Pilastro di Mezzo,
Sas dla Crusc The Sas dla Crusc (german: Heiligkreuzkofel, it, Sasso di Santa Croce ) is a mountain of the Fanes group in South Tyrol, Italy Italy ( it, Italia ), officially the Italian Republic, ) or the Republic of Italy, is a country in Southern Eu ...
/ Heiligkreuzkofel, (
ITA Ita or ITA may refer to : Places and jurisdictions * ITA, ISO 3166-1 country code for Italy * Ita (Africa), an ancient city and former bishopric in Roman Mauretania, presently a Latin Catholic titular see * Itá, Paraguay People * Ita (prin ...
) – 1968 July – Contemporary re-grading implies it may be a very early , led on sight by
Reinhold Messner Reinhold Andreas Messner (; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian mountaineer, explorer, and author from South Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental ...
. :*''Schwager Nordwand'' –
Schrammsteine The Schrammsteine are a long, strung-out, very jagged group of rocks in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains located east of Bad Schandau in Saxon Switzerland in eastern Germany. To the north they are bordered by the Kirnitzsch valley, to the south by the ...
,
Saxon Switzerland Saxon Switzerland (german: Sächsische Schweiz) is a hilly climbing area and national park around the Elbe valley south-east of Dresden in Saxony, Germany. Together with the Bohemian Switzerland in the Czech Republic it forms the Elbe Sands ...
, ( DEU) – 1970 – Considered a notable early IXb, by
Bernd Arnold Bernd Arnold (born 28 February 1947) is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He is known for more than 900 first ascents in the East German Saxon Switzerland climbing region. During the 1970s and 1980s, he established most of the hardest routes ...
.


Redpointed by women

: :* ''La Planta de Shiva''
Villanueva del Rosario Villanueva del Rosario is a town and municipality in the province of Málaga in the autonomous community of Andalusia in southern Spain. It is located off the motorway from Málaga to Granada and Seville. It is situated in the northeast of the pr ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – October 22, 2017 – First-ever female ascent of a 9b route, by
Angela Eiter Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional rock climber. She is a champion in lead climbing competitions, winning three IFSC Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, from 2004 to 2006 and four IFSC World ...
. :* ''Eagle–4'' –
Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (; Occitan: ''Sant Laugier d'Aurenja''; Provençal dialect: ''Sant Laugier dau Ventor'') is a rural commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in Southeastern France. In 2019, it had a popu ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – November 7, 2020 – Second-ever female ascent of a 9b, by
Julia Chanourdie Julia Chanourdie (born 25 June 1996) is a French professional rock climber. She is mainly active in lead climbing competitions. She also climbs outdoors, and on November 7, 2020, she became the second-ever female in history to climb a route, ''E ...
. :* ''Madame Ching''
Tyrol Tyrol (; historically the Tyrole; de-AT, Tirol ; it, Tirolo) is a historical region in the Alps - in Northern Italy and western Austria. The area was historically the core of the County of Tyrol, part of the Holy Roman Empire, Austrian Emp ...
(
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) *Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations *Arriva ...
) – December 16, 2020 – Third female 9b, and first-ever female FFA of a 9b, by
Angela Eiter Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional rock climber. She is a champion in lead climbing competitions, winning three IFSC Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, from 2004 to 2006 and four IFSC World ...
; unrepeated. :* ''Erebor'' – Eremo di San Paolo,
Arco ARCO ( ) is a brand of gasoline stations currently owned by Marathon Petroleum after BP sold its rights. BP commercializes the brand in Northern California, Oregon and Washington, while Marathon has rights for the rest of the United States an ...
(
ITA Ita or ITA may refer to : Places and jurisdictions * ITA, ISO 3166-1 country code for Italy * Ita (Africa), an ancient city and former bishopric in Roman Mauretania, presently a Latin Catholic titular see * Itá, Paraguay People * Ita (prin ...
) – October 2, 2021 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9b (downgraded from 9b+), by
Laura Rogora Laura Rogora (born 28 April 2001) is an Italian sport climber. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined sport climbing. In 2015, she became the second youngest climber, at age 14, to complete a route. In 2019, Rogora quali ...
. : :* '' La Rambla'' – Siurana (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – February 26, 2017 – First-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by
Margo Hayes Margo Hayes (born February 11, 1998) is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the Bouldering and Lead Climbing events at the World Youth Championships in Guangzhou ( China). In 2017, she became the ...
. :* ''Sweet neuf'' – Pierrot Beach (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – September 11, 2017 – Second-ever female ascent, and first-ever female FFA of a 9a+, by Anak Verhoeven. Confirmed by (2019). :* '' Realization'' –
Céüse Céüse (french: Montagne de Céüse) is a limestone mountain in the Hautes-Alpes ''département'' of France near Gap and Sigoyer. The "Pic de Céüse" is at an elevation of , and the whole massif is included in the Natura 2000 protected area. ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – September 24, 2017 – Third-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by
Margo Hayes Margo Hayes (born February 11, 1998) is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the Bouldering and Lead Climbing events at the World Youth Championships in Guangzhou ( China). In 2017, she became the ...
. :* ''Papichulo'' –
Oliana Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir. There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – March 22, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by
Margo Hayes Margo Hayes (born February 11, 1998) is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the Bouldering and Lead Climbing events at the World Youth Championships in Guangzhou ( China). In 2017, she became the ...
. : :* ''Bimbaluna'' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – 1 May 2005 – World's first-ever female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :* ''Open your Mind direct'' – Santa Linya (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) 17 March 2015 – Second female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by
Ashima Shiraishi Ashima Shiraishi (白石阿島, ''Shiraishi Ashima'', born April 3, 2001) is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established ...
. : :*' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – October 29, 2002 – First-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :* ''Logical Progression'' – Jo Yama (
JPN Japan ( ja, 日本, or , and formally , ''Nihonkoku'') is an island country in East Asia. It is situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean, and is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan, while extending from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north ...
) – November, 2004 – Second-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :* ''Les 3 P'' – La grotte du Galetas,
Verdon Gorge The Verdon Gorge ( French: ''Gorges du Verdon'') is a river canyon located in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of Southeastern France. It is about 25 km (15.5 mi) long and up to 700 metres (0.4 mi) deep. It was formed by the ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – August, 2011 – Third-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by ; initially disputed, later verified. :* ''PuntX'' – Gorges du Loup, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – November, 2013 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by
Muriel Sarkany Muriel Sarkany (born August 5, 1974) is a Belgian professional rock climber who specialized in competition lead climbing where she is known for winning five Climbing World Cups. She also specialized in outdoor sport climbing and is considered the ...
. : :* ''Honky Tonk Mix'' – Onate (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – June, 2000 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :* ''Noia'' – Andonno (
ITA Ita or ITA may refer to : Places and jurisdictions * ITA, ISO 3166-1 country code for Italy * Ita (Africa), an ancient city and former bishopric in Roman Mauretania, presently a Latin Catholic titular see * Itá, Paraguay People * Ita (prin ...
) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :* ''Na Nai'' – Baltzola (ESP) – June 18, 2003 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :* ''Powerade'' – Vadiello (ESP) – May 21, 2007 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. : :* ''Honky Tonky'' – Onate (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – May, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :* ''White Zombie'' – Baltzola (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – May, 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :* ''Raz'' – Baltzola (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – May, 1999 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :* ''Welcome to Tijuana'' – Rodellar (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – May, 2000 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. : :* ''Masse Critique'' – Cimai (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1990 – First-ever female ascent of an 8b+ route, by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
. :* ''No Sika, No Crime'' – Lehn ( CHF) – 1993 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Suzi Good. :* ''Silence Vertical'' –
Troubat Troubat is a commune in the Hautes-Pyrénées department in south-western France. File:Troubat église vue depuis château comtes Comminges (3).jpg, File:Plan de la grotte de Sainte Araille.png, File:Entrée de la Grotte de Troubat - Vallée d ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1993 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by
Robyn Erbesfield Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (born 8 August 1963), is an American rock climber and rock climbing coach. In competition lead climbing, she is a 4-time World Cup champion (1992, 1993, 1994, 1995), and won the biennial World Championships in 1995. Sh ...
. :* ''Attention on vous regarde'' –
Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (; oc, Sent Antonin) is a commune in the Tarn-et-Garonne department in the Occitanie region in southern France. Having played an influential and somewhat bellicose role in the history of the region from the 12th to the 1 ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1993 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by
Robyn Erbesfield Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (born 8 August 1963), is an American rock climber and rock climbing coach. In competition lead climbing, she is a 4-time World Cup champion (1992, 1993, 1994, 1995), and won the biennial World Championships in 1995. Sh ...
. : :* ''Sortilèges'' – Le Cimai (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1988 – First-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by
Isabelle Patissier Isabelle Patissier (born March 1, 1967) is a French world champion rock climber and more recently a rally driver. She is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups (1990, 1991) and for being the first-ever woman in history to climb an route ...
. :* ''Sortilèges'' – Le Cimai (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1989 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
. :* ''Sortilèges'' – Le Cimai (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1989 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by . : :* ''Choucas'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – March 1988 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a+ route, by
Catherine Destivelle Catherine Destivelle (born 24 July 1960) is a French rock climber and mountaineer who is considered one of the greatest and most important female climbers in the history of the sport. She came to prominence in the mid-1980s for sport climbing by ...
. : :* ''Come Back'' – Val San Nicolò (
ITA Ita or ITA may refer to : Places and jurisdictions * ITA, ISO 3166-1 country code for Italy * Ita (Africa), an ancient city and former bishopric in Roman Mauretania, presently a Latin Catholic titular see * Itá, Paraguay People * Ita (prin ...
) – 1986 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by . :* ''Rêve de Papillon'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1987 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by . :* ''Rêve de Papillon'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1987 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
. :* ''Rêve de Papillon'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1988 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by
Catherine Destivelle Catherine Destivelle (born 24 July 1960) is a French rock climber and mountaineer who is considered one of the greatest and most important female climbers in the history of the sport. She came to prominence in the mid-1980s for sport climbing by ...
. : :* ''Fleur de Rocaille'' –
Mouriès Mouriès (; oc, Moriés, ) is a commune in the Bouches-du-Rhône department in southern France. Population Economy Mouriès is known for its olive oil production, calling itself "the olive oil capital of France" (a claim disputed by Nyons ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1985 – First-ever female ascent of an 7c+/8a route, by
Catherine Destivelle Catherine Destivelle (born 24 July 1960) is a French rock climber and mountaineer who is considered one of the greatest and most important female climbers in the history of the sport. She came to prominence in the mid-1980s for sport climbing by ...
; was first 8a, but grade softened.


Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first female ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre ''Fleur de Rocaille'', are
traditional climbing Traditional climbing (or Trad climbing) is a style of rock climbing in which the climber places all the necessary protection gear required to arrest any falls as they are climbing, and then removes it when the pitch is complete (often done ...
routes: : :* ''Vandals'' –
Shawangunk Mountains Shawangunk ( ) may refer to: In New York *Shawangunk, New York, a town in Ulster County *Shawangunk Correctional Facility, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Grasslands National Wildlife Refuge, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Kill, a tributary of the Wallk ...
( US) – 1984 – First-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
. :* ''Artificial Intelligence'' –
Shawangunk Mountains Shawangunk ( ) may refer to: In New York *Shawangunk, New York, a town in Ulster County *Shawangunk Correctional Facility, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Grasslands National Wildlife Refuge, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Kill, a tributary of the Wallk ...
( US) – 1985 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
. :* ''Chimpanzodrome'' – Le Saussois (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1985 – Third-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by . : :* ''Ophir Broke'' – Telluride ( US) – 1979 – First-ever female ascent of a 7c route (subsequently upgraded), by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
. :* ''Organic Iron'' –
Shawangunk Mountains Shawangunk ( ) may refer to: In New York *Shawangunk, New York, a town in Ulster County *Shawangunk Correctional Facility, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Grasslands National Wildlife Refuge, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Kill, a tributary of the Wallk ...
( US) – 1984 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7c route (was considered first), by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
. :* ''Katapult'' –
Frankenjura Franconian Switzerland (german: Fränkische Schweiz) is an upland in Upper Franconia, Bavaria, Germany and a popular tourist retreat. Located between the River Pegnitz in the east and the south, the River Regnitz in the west and the River Main i ...
( GER) – 1985 – Third-ever female ascent of a 7c route, by
Isabelle Patissier Isabelle Patissier (born March 1, 1967) is a French world champion rock climber and more recently a rally driver. She is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups (1990, 1991) and for being the first-ever woman in history to climb an route ...
. : :* ''Yellow Crack Variation'' –
Shawangunk Mountains Shawangunk ( ) may refer to: In New York *Shawangunk, New York, a town in Ulster County *Shawangunk Correctional Facility, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Grasslands National Wildlife Refuge, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Kill, a tributary of the Wallk ...
( US) – 1984 – First-ever female ascent of a 7b+ route, by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
. :* ''Pichenibule (en libre)'' –
Verdon Gorge The Verdon Gorge ( French: ''Gorges du Verdon'') is a river canyon located in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of Southeastern France. It is about 25 km (15.5 mi) long and up to 700 metres (0.4 mi) deep. It was formed by the ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1985 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7b+ route, by
Catherine Destivelle Catherine Destivelle (born 24 July 1960) is a French rock climber and mountaineer who is considered one of the greatest and most important female climbers in the history of the sport. She came to prominence in the mid-1980s for sport climbing by ...
. : :* ''Shawangunk Ridge'' –
Shawangunk Mountains Shawangunk ( ) may refer to: In New York *Shawangunk, New York, a town in Ulster County *Shawangunk Correctional Facility, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Grasslands National Wildlife Refuge, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Kill, a tributary of the Wallk ...
( US) – 1977 – First-ever female ascent of a 7b route, by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
. :* ''Kansas City'' –
Shawangunk Mountains Shawangunk ( ) may refer to: In New York *Shawangunk, New York, a town in Ulster County *Shawangunk Correctional Facility, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Grasslands National Wildlife Refuge, in Ulster County *Shawangunk Kill, a tributary of the Wallk ...
( US) – 1977 – Early female ascent of a 7b route, by Barbara Devine.


Onsighted / Flashed by men

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an
onsight __NOTOC__ This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases d ...
(no prior beta) and a
flash Flash, flashes, or FLASH may refer to: Arts, entertainment, and media Fictional aliases * Flash (DC Comics character), several DC Comics superheroes with super speed: ** Flash (Barry Allen) ** Flash (Jay Garrick) ** Wally West, the first Kid ...
(had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted. : :* ''Super Crackinette'' – Saint Léger (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+
flash Flash, flashes, or FLASH may refer to: Arts, entertainment, and media Fictional aliases * Flash (DC Comics character), several DC Comics superheroes with super speed: ** Flash (Barry Allen) ** Flash (Jay Garrick) ** Wally West, the first Kid ...
(not onsight) in history, by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
. : :* ''Southern Smoke Direct'' – Siurana (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a
flash Flash, flashes, or FLASH may refer to: Arts, entertainment, and media Fictional aliases * Flash (DC Comics character), several DC Comics superheroes with super speed: ** Flash (Barry Allen) ** Flash (Jay Garrick) ** Wally West, the first Kid ...
(not onsight), by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
. :* ''Estado Critico'' – Siurana (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by
Alex Megos Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to on-sight (climb on the first try without prior practice or advice) a route graded . He has completed multiple routes and boulder problems that are not ...
. :* ''Cabane au Canada'' – Rawyl ( SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
. :* ''Il Domani'' – Baltzola (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
. :* ''Water World'' – Pajkova Streha ( SLO) – November 2022 – Fourth-ever 9a onsight, by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
. : :*''Bizi Euskaraz'' –
Etxauri Etxauri is a town and municipality located in the province and autonomous community of Navarre, northern Spain , image_flag = Bandera de España.svg , image_coat = Escudo de España (mazonado).svg , national_motto ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – December 11, 2007 – First-ever 8c+ onsight, by
Patxi Usobiaga Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (born September 7, 1980), best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever c ...
. :* ''Kidetasunaren Balio Erantsia'' –
Etxauri Etxauri is a town and municipality located in the province and autonomous community of Navarre, northern Spain , image_flag = Bandera de España.svg , image_coat = Escudo de España (mazonado).svg , national_motto ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – March 6, 2011 – Second-ever 8c+ onsight, by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
. :*''Bizi Euskaraz'' –
Etxauri Etxauri is a town and municipality located in the province and autonomous community of Navarre, northern Spain , image_flag = Bandera de España.svg , image_coat = Escudo de España (mazonado).svg , national_motto ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – March 7, 2007 – Third-ever 8c+ onsight, by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
. :* ''Powerade'' – Vadiello (La Caverna) (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – March 9, 2011 – Fourth-ever 8c+ onsight, by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
. : :* ''White Zombie'' – Baltzola (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – October 6, 2004 – First-ever 8c onsight, by
Yuji Hirayama Yuji Hirayama (平山ユージ; born February 23, 1969) is a Japanese rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two Lead World Cups, in 1998 (becoming the first Asian climber to win the title) and in 2000. He is notable for ...
. :* ''Pata Negra'' – Rodellar (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – August 10, 2005 – Second-ever 8c onsight, by
Tomáš Mrázek (not to be confused with Tomas Mrazek, the boxer with an impressive 10-75 record). Tomáš Mrázek (born August 24, 1982, in Brno) is a professional Czech rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two World Championships, i ...
. :* ''Gaua'' – Lezaia (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – October 10, 2005 – Third-ever 8c onsight, by
Patxi Usobiaga Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (born September 7, 1980), best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever c ...
. :* ''La Teoria Dell'8a'' – Grotta dell'Aeronauta (
ITA Ita or ITA may refer to : Places and jurisdictions * ITA, ISO 3166-1 country code for Italy * Ita (Africa), an ancient city and former bishopric in Roman Mauretania, presently a Latin Catholic titular see * Itá, Paraguay People * Ita (prin ...
) – November 23, 2005 – Fourth-ever 8c onsight, by
Tomáš Mrázek (not to be confused with Tomas Mrazek, the boxer with an impressive 10-75 record). Tomáš Mrázek (born August 24, 1982, in Brno) is a professional Czech rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two World Championships, i ...
. : :*''Massey Fergusson'' – Calanques (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1995 – First-ever 8b+ onsight, by . :*''Maldita María'' – Cuenca (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – 1996 – Second-ever 8b+ onsight, by . : :*''Liaisons Dangereuses'' – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by :*''Public Enemy'' – Cuenca, (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by
Stefan Glowacz Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965 in Tittmoning) is a German professional rock climber and adventurer. He started climbing at the age of 12 and advanced to one of the world's best sports climbers only few years later. Since 1993 he has been d ...
, but consensus grade is now 8b. : :(unknown) : :*''Samizdat'' – Cimai (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1987 – First-ever 8a on-sight, by . : :*''Pol Pot'' –
Verdon Gorge The Verdon Gorge ( French: ''Gorges du Verdon'') is a river canyon located in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of Southeastern France. It is about 25 km (15.5 mi) long and up to 700 metres (0.4 mi) deep. It was formed by the ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1984 – First-ever 7c+ onsight, by
Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the ...
. :*''The Phoenix'' –
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1984 – Second-ever 7c+ onsight, by
Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the ...
. :*''Yesterday Direct'' –
Mount Arapiles Mount Arapiles is a rock formation that rises about above the Wimmera plains in western Victoria, Australia. It is located in Arapiles approximately west of the town of Natimuk and is part of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park. Arapile ...
( AUS) – 1985 – Third-ever 7c+ (Australia 28) onsight, by
Wolfgang Güllich Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992) was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing for most of the decade after his ...
. : :*''Equinox'' – Joshua Tree ( US) – 1982 – First-ever 7c flash (not onsight), by
Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the ...
(originally considered 7b+). :*''La Polka des Ringards'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1982 – First-ever 7c onsight, by
Patrick Edlinger Patrick Edlinger (15 June 1960 – 16 November 2012) was a professional French rock climber. Edlinger is considered a pioneer and a legend of sport climbing. He was the second-ever climber in history to ascend routes of grade with ''Nymphodal ...
. :*''Heisse Finger'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1983 – Second-ever 7c onsight, by
Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the ...
. :*''Chasin' the Trane'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1983 – Third-ever 7c onsight, by
Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the ...
. : :*''Super Crack'' – Shawangunks ( US) – 1982 – First-ever 7b+ flash (not onsight), by
Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the ...
. :*''Captain crochet'' –
Buoux Buoux ju̟ːksis a commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. Located on the north side of the Luberon, the town is known for the high cliffs that surround it, making it a popular venue f ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1982 – First-ever 7b+ onsight, by
Patrick Edlinger Patrick Edlinger (15 June 1960 – 16 November 2012) was a professional French rock climber. Edlinger is considered a pioneer and a legend of sport climbing. He was the second-ever climber in history to ascend routes of grade with ''Nymphodal ...
.


Onsighted / Flashed by women

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an
onsight __NOTOC__ This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases d ...
(no prior beta) and a
flash Flash, flashes, or FLASH may refer to: Arts, entertainment, and media Fictional aliases * Flash (DC Comics character), several DC Comics superheroes with super speed: ** Flash (Barry Allen) ** Flash (Jay Garrick) ** Wally West, the first Kid ...
(had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted. : :* ''La Fabelita -–'' Santa Linya (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – December 31, 2015 – First-ever female 8c flash, by
Janja Garnbret Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...
(her flash of ''Rollito Sharma'' two days earlier was downgraded to 8b+). :*''Fish eye'' –
Oliana Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir. There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – November 1, 2021 – First-ever female 8c onsight, by
Janja Garnbret Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...
:*''American Hustle'' –
Oliana Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir. There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – November 4, 2021 – Second-ever female 8c onsight, by
Janja Garnbret Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...
: :*''Hidrofobia'' – Montsant (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – April, 2006 – First-ever female 8b+ onsight, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
(later considered possible 8b). :*''Humildes pa casa'' –
Oliana Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir. There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – April, 2010 – Second-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Maja Vidmar (later considered possible 8b+/c). :*''Les Rois du Pétrole'' –
Pic Saint-Loup Pic Saint-Loup (Languedocien: ''Puòg de Sant Lop'') is a mountain in Languedoc-Roussillon, southern France, located near the communes of Cazevieille and Saint-Mathieu-de-Tréviers in the Hérault department Department may refer to: * Departme ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – July, 2010 – Third-ever female 8b+ onsight, by (once considered the first 8c, but the route was downgraded). :*''Omaha Beach'' –
Red River Gorge The Red River Gorge is a canyon system on the Red River in east-central Kentucky. Geologically it is part of the Pottsville Escarpment. The gorge lies within the Daniel Boone National Forest and was subsequently designated the Red River Gorge G ...
( US) – March, 2011 – Fourth-ever female 8b+ onsight, by
Sasha Digiulian Sasha DiGiulian (born October 23, 1992) is a professional rock climber. She won the gold medal at the 2011 International Federation of Sport Climbing World Championships in Arco, Italy, for Female Overall, placed Silver in Bouldering and Bronze ...
. : :*''Steroid Performance'' –
Horai Penglai () is a legendary land of Chinese mythology. It is known in Japanese mythology as Hōrai. McCullough, Helen. ''Classical Japanese Prose'', p. 570. Stanford Univ. Press, 1990. . Location According to the ''Classic of Mountains and Sea ...
(
JPN Japan ( ja, 日本, or , and formally , ''Nihonkoku'') is an island country in East Asia. It is situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean, and is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan, while extending from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north ...
) – December, 2004 – First-ever female 8b onsight, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :*''Il Veccho et il Mare'' – Millennium Cave,
Sardinia Sardinia ( ; it, Sardegna, label=Italian, Corsican and Tabarchino ; sc, Sardigna , sdc, Sardhigna; french: Sardaigne; sdn, Saldigna; ca, Sardenya, label=Algherese and Catalan) is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, after ...
(
ITA Ita or ITA may refer to : Places and jurisdictions * ITA, ISO 3166-1 country code for Italy * Ita (Africa), an ancient city and former bishopric in Roman Mauretania, presently a Latin Catholic titular see * Itá, Paraguay People * Ita (prin ...
) – July, 2005 – Second-ever female 8b onsight, by . :*''La Réserve'' –
Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (; Occitan: ''Sant Laugier d'Aurenja''; Provençal dialect: ''Sant Laugier dau Ventor'') is a rural commune in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in Southeastern France. In 2019, it had a popu ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – October, 2005 – Third-ever female 8b onsight, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :*''Fuente de Energia'' – La Caverna,
Vadiello Vadiello is a locality located in the municipality of Loporzano, in Huesca province, Aragon, Spain. As of 2020, it has a population of 0. Geography Vadiello is located 28km northeast of Huesca Huesca (; an, Uesca) is a city in north-eastern ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – November, 2005 – Fourth-ever female 8b onsight, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. : :*''Bon Vintage'' – Terradets (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – April, 2000 – First-ever female 8a+ onsight, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :*''Naska'' –
Apellániz Apellániz / Apinaiz (Apinaiz in Basque) is a town located in the municipality of Arraia-Maeztu, in the province of Álava (Araba), in the autonomous community of Basque Country, northern Spain , image_flag = Bandera de España.svg , ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female 8a+ onsight, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :*''Déversé Satanique'' – Gorges du Loup (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – October, 2001 – Third-ever female 8a+ onsight, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. : :*''Overdose'' – Lourmarin (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1993 – First-ever female 8a/+ onsight, by
Robyn Erbesfield Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (born 8 August 1963), is an American rock climber and rock climbing coach. In competition lead climbing, she is a 4-time World Cup champion (1992, 1993, 1994, 1995), and won the biennial World Championships in 1995. Sh ...
. :*''Simon'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1992 – First-ever female 8a onsight, by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
. :*''Rampaneu'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1992 – Second-ever female 8a onsight, by
Robyn Erbesfield Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (born 8 August 1963), is an American rock climber and rock climbing coach. In competition lead climbing, she is a 4-time World Cup champion (1992, 1993, 1994, 1995), and won the biennial World Championships in 1995. Sh ...
.


Free-solo by men

Notable free-solos above range; does not include "
highball A highball is a mixed alcoholic drink composed of an alcoholic base spirit and a larger proportion of a non-alcoholic mixer, often a carbonated beverage. Examples include the Seven and Seven, Scotch and soda, gin and tonic, screwdriver (a.k.a ...
" boulder ascents as the climbers here did not use padding or spotters. : :* ''Panem et Circenses'' – Length: – Muro di Pizarra ,
Arco ARCO ( ) is a brand of gasoline stations currently owned by Marathon Petroleum after BP sold its rights. BP commercializes the brand in Northern California, Oregon and Washington, while Marathon has rights for the rest of the United States an ...
( IT) – March 2021 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52. : :* ''Kommunist'' – Length: –
Tyrol Tyrol (; historically the Tyrole; de-AT, Tirol ; it, Tirolo) is a historical region in the Alps - in Northern Italy and western Austria. The area was historically the core of the County of Tyrol, part of the Holy Roman Empire, Austrian Emp ...
(
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) *Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations *Arriva ...
) – 2004 – The first-ever 8b+ free solo, by
Alexander Huber Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968), is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He became a professional climber in 1997, and was widely regarded as the world's strongest climber in the late-1990s, and is an important figure in rock climbin ...
. :* ''Darwin Dixit'' – Length: –
Margalef Margalef is a village in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated on the edge of Montsant and is a popular ecotourism destination, especially among rock climbers Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural r ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – March 2008 – Originally 8c, but downgraded to 8b+, by
Dave MacLeod Dave MacLeod (born 17 July 1978) is a Scottish people, Scottish rock climber, ice climbing, ice climber, and climbing author. MacLeod is best known for being the first climber in the world to climb in free solo style (without rope) a route ('' ...
. : :* ''Compilation'' –
Omblèze Omblèze (; oc, Omblèsas) is a commune in the Drôme Drôme (; Occitan: ''Droma''; Arpitan: ''Drôma'') is the southernmost department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of Southeastern France. Named after the river Drôme, it had a po ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1993– First-ever 8b free solo, by
Alain Robert Alain Robert (born as Robert Alain Philippe on 7 August 1962) is a French rock climber and urban climber. Known as "the French Spider-Man" (after the comic character Spider-Man) or "the Human Spider", Robert is famous for his free solo climbing ...
. :* ''Der Opportunist'' –
Schleierfall The Schleier Waterfall or Schleierfall, also called the Schleier, is a waterfall on the ''Rettenbach'' stream on the southern side of the ''Gamskögerl'' () in the Wilder Kaiser mountains of Austria. It is located within the district of Kitzbüh ...
(
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) *Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations *Arriva ...
) – 2003 – Second-ever 8b free solo, by
Alexander Huber Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968), is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He became a professional climber in 1997, and was widely regarded as the world's strongest climber in the late-1990s, and is an important figure in rock climbin ...
. : :* ''Rêve de gosse'' –
La Roche-des-Arnauds La Roche-des-Arnauds ( oc, La Ròca deis Arnauds) is a commune in the Hautes-Alpes department in southeastern France. Population See also *Communes of the Hautes-Alpes department The following is a list of the 162 communes of the Hautes-Alpe ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1987 – First-ever 8a+ free solo, by
Jean-Christophe Lafaille Jean-Christophe Lafaille (31 March 1965 – 27 January 2006 resumed was a French mountaineer noted for a number of difficult ascents in the Alps and Himalaya, and for what has been described as "perhaps the finest self-rescue ever performed in the ...
. : :* ''Revelations'' – Raven Tor,
Peak District The Peak District is an upland area in England at the southern end of the Pennines. Mostly in Derbyshire Derbyshire ( ) is a ceremonial county in the East Midlands, England. It includes much of the Peak District National Park, the southe ...
( ENG) – 1985 – First-ever 8a free solo, by . :* ''Weed Killer'' – Raven Tor,
Peak District The Peak District is an upland area in England at the southern end of the Pennines. Mostly in Derbyshire Derbyshire ( ) is a ceremonial county in the East Midlands, England. It includes much of the Peak District National Park, the southe ...
( ENG) – 1986 – First-ever 7c free solo, by
Wolfgang Güllich Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992) was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing for most of the decade after his ...
. :* ''Baby Apes'' –
Joshua Tree National Park Joshua Tree National Park is an American national park in southeastern California, east of San Bernardino and Los Angeles and north of Palm Springs, California, Palm Springs. It is named after the Joshua trees (''Yucca brevifolia'') native to t ...
( US) – 1982 – Probably the first-ever 7b free solo, by
John Bachar John Bachar (March 23, 1957 – July 5, 2009) was an American rock climber. Noted for his skill at free soloing, he ultimately died during a free solo climb. A fitness fanatic, he was the creator of the climbing training device known as the Bach ...
.


Boulder problems


Solved by men

: :*''
Burden of Dreams ''Burden of Dreams'' is a 1982 "making-of" documentary film directed by Les Blank, shot during and about the chaotic production of Werner Herzog's 1982 film ''Fitzcarraldo'', and filmed on location in the jungles of Peru. Plot summary Cast * We ...
'' – Lappnor ( ) – October 2016 – First ascent by
Nalle Hukkataival Nalle Hukkataival (born 8 September 1986 in Helsinki) is a Finnish professional climber. He specializes in bouldering Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the us ...
; confirmed by Will Bosi in April 2023. :* ''Return of the Sleepwalker'' – Red Rock Canyon ( US) – April 2021 – First ascent by
Daniel Woods Daniel Woods (born August 1, 1989) is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering. Woods has climbed over thirty bouldering problems graded ...
; a sit start into Jimmy Webb's ''Sleepwalker'' ; remains unrepeated (September 2023). :* ''Alphane'' –
Chironico Chironico is a former municipality located in the district of Leventina in the canton of Ticino in Switzerland. On 1 April 2012, it was incorporated into the municipality of Faido along with the former municipalities of Anzonico, Calpiogna, Ca ...
( SUI) – April 6, 2022 – First ascent by
Shawn Raboutou Shawn Raboutou (born April 19, 1998) is an American rock climber. In 2022, he became the first person to climb the bouldering grade of on more than one occasion. Early life Shawn Raboutou was born in Boulder, Colorado on April 19, 1998. He is t ...
, and first repeat by Aidan Roberts (October 2022); Roberts was silent on the grade having never climbed at V17, and having previously failed on ''Burden of Dreams''. William Bosi made a second repeat in November 2022, and after feeling that it was less of a challenge than his FA of ''Honey Badger'' 8C+, later felt it was still at . :* ''Megatron –''
Eldorado Canyon State Park Eldorado Canyon State Park is part of the Colorado State Park system. It was established in 1978 and is located in Boulder County near the city of Boulder. The park consists of two areas, the Inner Canyon (developed area) and Crescent Meadows (u ...
( US) – 2022 – First ascent by
Shawn Raboutou Shawn Raboutou (born April 19, 1998) is an American rock climber. In 2022, he became the first person to climb the bouldering grade of on more than one occasion. Early life Shawn Raboutou was born in Boulder, Colorado on April 19, 1998. He is t ...
. The route adds a seven-move sequence from a sit start into ''Tron'', an route first ascended by
Daniel Woods Daniel Woods (born August 1, 1989) is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering. Woods has climbed over thirty bouldering problems graded ...
. : :*' –
Varazze Varazze (; lij, Väze) is a ''comune'' (municipality) in the Province of Savona in the Italian region of Liguria, located about west of Genoa and about northeast of Savona in the Riviera di Ponente. Nearby in the Ligurian Apennines is the Mon ...
(
ITA Ita or ITA may refer to : Places and jurisdictions * ITA, ISO 3166-1 country code for Italy * Ita (Africa), an ancient city and former bishopric in Roman Mauretania, presently a Latin Catholic titular see * Itá, Paraguay People * Ita (prin ...
) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever , by
Christian Core Christian Core (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an boulder, ', in 2008. As a competition c ...
. First repeat in 2011 by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with ''Terranova'' (see below). Third ascent by
Nalle Hukkataival Nalle Hukkataival (born 8 September 1986 in Helsinki) is a Finnish professional climber. He specializes in bouldering Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the us ...
in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade. In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade. In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a
kneepad Knee pads or kneepads are protective gear worn on knees to protect them against impact injury from falling to the ground or hitting an obstacle, or to provide padding for extended kneeling. Use Sports Knee pads are worn in many recreationa ...
). :*''Livin' Large'' –
Rocklands Rocklands is a civil parish in the English county of Norfolk which encompasses the villages of Rockland All Saints and Rockland St Peter. It covers an area of and had a population of 702 in 282 households at the 2001 census, increasing to ...
( ZAF) – August 2009 – First ascent by
Nalle Hukkataival Nalle Hukkataival (born 8 September 1986 in Helsinki) is a Finnish professional climber. He specializes in bouldering Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the us ...
who graded it , and first repeat in 2015
Jimmy Webb Jimmy Layne Webb (born August 15, 1946) is an American songwriter, composer, and singer. He has written numerous platinum-selling songs, including " Up, Up and Away", "By the Time I Get to Phoenix", "MacArthur Park", "Wichita Lineman", "Worst ...
who confirmed an 8C; however, a second and third repeat by
Shawn Raboutou Shawn Raboutou (born April 19, 1998) is an American rock climber. In 2022, he became the first person to climb the bouldering grade of on more than one occasion. Early life Shawn Raboutou was born in Boulder, Colorado on April 19, 1998. He is t ...
(2018) and Ryuichi Murai (2023), suggests it is one of the first-ever boulders. :* ''Hypnotized Minds'' –
Rocky Mountain The Rocky Mountains, also known as the Rockies, are a major mountain range and the largest mountain system in North America. The Rocky Mountains stretch in straight-line distance from the northernmost part of western Canada, to New Mexico in ...
( US) – October 2010 – Considered one of the first-ever consensus boulders, by
Daniel Woods Daniel Woods (born August 1, 1989) is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering. Woods has climbed over thirty bouldering problems graded ...
who initially proposed V15; first repeat by (2016), and a second repeat by Dave Graham (2019), confirmed it as V16. :* ''Terranova'' – Holstejn ( Moravsky Kras, CZE) – November 2011 – Considered an early , by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
; unrepeated (2023) : :*''Monkey Wedding'' –
Rocklands Rocklands is a civil parish in the English county of Norfolk which encompasses the villages of Rockland All Saints and Rockland St Peter. It covers an area of and had a population of 702 in 282 households at the 2001 census, increasing to ...
( ZAF) – August 2002 – First-ever consensus in history, by
Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is consi ...
. :*''Black Eagle SDS'' –
Rocklands Rocklands is a civil parish in the English county of Norfolk which encompasses the villages of Rockland All Saints and Rockland St Peter. It covers an area of and had a population of 702 in 282 households at the 2001 census, increasing to ...
( ZAF) – August 2002 – Second-ever consensus in history, by
Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is consi ...
. :*''Viva l'Evolution'' – Tyrol ( AUS) – September 2002 – Third-ever consensus in history, by . :*''Walk Away SDS'' –
Lake District The Lake District, also known as the Lakes or Lakeland, is a mountainous region in North West England. A popular holiday destination, it is famous for its lakes, forests, and mountains (or ''fells''), and its associations with William Wordswor ...
, ( ENG) – October 2002 – Considered the fourth-ever in history, by John Gakins; unrepeated (2023) : :* ''Radja'' – Branson, Valais ( SUI) – January 1996 – First-ever consensus in history, by
Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is consi ...
. :* ''Nanuk'' – Königsee ( GER) – 1997 – After repeated in 2012, considered the second-ever in history after ''Radja'', by Klem Loskot. :* ''Coeur de Lion'' –
Hueco Tanks Hueco Tanks is an area of low mountains and historic site in El Paso County, Texas, in the United States. It is located in a high-altitude desert basin between the Franklin Mountains to the west and the Hueco Mountains to the east. ''Hueco'' is ...
( US) – 1998 – Third-ever consensus in history, by
Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is consi ...
. :* ''
Dreamtime The Dreaming, also referred to as Dreamtime, is a term devised by early anthropologists to refer to a religio-cultural worldview attributed to Australian Aboriginal mythology, Australian Aboriginal beliefs. It was originally used by Francis Ja ...
'' –
Cresciano Cresciano is a former municipality in the district of Riviera in the canton of Ticino in Switzerland. On 2 April 2017 the former municipalities of Iragna, Lodrino and Osogna merged into the new municipality of Riviera. History Cresciano is f ...
( SUI) – October 28, 2000 – First ascent by
Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is consi ...
who proposed it as the world's first , but later settled at ''Dreamtime'' became as iconic as ''
Midnight Lightning ''Midnight Lightning'' is a posthumous compilation album by American rock guitarist Jimi Hendrix. It was released in November 1975 by Reprise Records in the US and Polydor Records in the UK. It was the second to be produced by Alan Douglas and ...
'' due to its beauty and challenge; a broken hold in 2009 regraded it closer to . : :* ''La Danse des Balrogs'' – Branson, Valais, ( SUI) – 1992 – First-ever consensus in history, by
Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is consi ...
. :* ''Enigma'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1992 – Considered the second-ever , by Philippe le Denmatt. :* ''Fatman'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1993 – Considered important early , by . :* ''The Dominator'' –
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
, ( US) – 1993 – Considered important early , by
Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the ...
. : :* ''Trice'' –
Boulder, Colorado Boulder is a home rule city that is the county seat and most populous municipality of Boulder County, Colorado, United States. The city population was 108,250 at the 2020 United States census, making it the 12th most populous city in Color ...
( US) – 1975 – Ungraded and unrepeated for 32 years, but is now considered the world's first , by Jim Holloway. :* ''Slapshot'' –
Flatirons The Flatirons are rock formations in the western United States, near Boulder, Colorado, consisting of flatirons. There are five large, numbered Flatirons ranging from north to south (First through Fifth, respectively) along the east slope of ...
( US) – 1977 – Ungraded and unrepeated for years, but considered one of the world's first , by Jim Holloway, and possibly . :* ''L’à Plat du Gain'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by Alain Ghersen. :* ''Superman'' –
Cressbrook Cressbrook is a village in the Peak District National Park in Derbyshire. It lies in Water-cum-Jolly Dale at the foot of Cressbrook Dale. Population details at the 2011 Census are included in the civil parish of Litton. Before its Enclosure Act ...
( ENG) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by
Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the ...
; now a possible 8B. : :* ''C’était Demain'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1984 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by . :* ''Careless Torque'' –
Stanage Edge Stanage Edge, or simply Stanage (from "stone edge") is a gritstone escarpment in the Peak District, England, famous as a location for climbing. It lies a couple of miles to the north of Hathersage, and the northern part of the edge forms the b ...
( ENG) – 1987 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by
Ron Fawcett Ron Fawcett (born 6 May 1955) is a British rock climber and rock climbing author who is credited with pushing the technical standards of British rock climbing in traditional, sport, bouldering and free soloing disciplines, in the decade from the ...
; now at 8A. : :* ''The Groove'' –
Pueblo, Colorado Pueblo () is a List of municipalities in Colorado#Home rule municipality, home rule municipality that is the county seat and the List of municipalities in Colorado, most populous municipality of Pueblo County, Colorado, Pueblo County, Colorado ...
( US) – 1978 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by
John Gill John Gill may refer to: Sports *John Gill (cricketer) (1854–1888), New Zealand cricketer *John Gill (coach) (1898–1997), American football coach *John Gill (footballer, born 1903), English professional footballer *John Gill (American football) ...
. : :* ''Red Cross Overhang'', or ''Gill Problem'' –
Teton Range The Teton Range is a mountain range of the Rocky Mountains in North America. It extends for approximately in a north–south direction through the U.S. state of Wyoming, east of the Idaho state line. It is south of Yellowstone National Park and ...
( US) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by
John Gill John Gill may refer to: Sports *John Gill (cricketer) (1854–1888), New Zealand cricketer *John Gill (coach) (1898–1997), American football coach *John Gill (footballer, born 1903), English professional footballer *John Gill (American football) ...
. :* ''Double Clutch''--Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO (US)--1972--Very early 7c (V8-V9) by Bob Williams. :* ''Speed of Light Dyno'' – Black Mountains ( US) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a , by John Long. :* ''L'Abbé Résina'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a , by Pierre Richard. : :* ''Le Carnage'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever ascent of a , by Jérôme Jean-Charles. :* ''
Midnight Lightning ''Midnight Lightning'' is a posthumous compilation album by American rock guitarist Jimi Hendrix. It was released in November 1975 by Reprise Records in the US and Polydor Records in the UK. It was the second to be produced by Alan Douglas and ...
'' – Camp 4,
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
( US) – 1978 – Second-ever ascent of a , by
Ron Kauk Ron Kauk (born 23 September 1957) is an American rock climber. Kauk is associated with Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley, where he lived for decades, now a resident of El Portal, California. In 1975, he made the first free ascent of the east face of Wa ...
; arguably the world's most famous bouldering problem that demonstrated bouldering as a sport in its own right. : :* ''Gill Right Problem'' –
Teton Range The Teton Range is a mountain range of the Rocky Mountains in North America. It extends for approximately in a north–south direction through the U.S. state of Wyoming, east of the Idaho state line. It is south of Yellowstone National Park and ...
( US) – 1958 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by
John Gill John Gill may refer to: Sports *John Gill (cricketer) (1854–1888), New Zealand cricketer *John Gill (coach) (1898–1997), American football coach *John Gill (footballer, born 1903), English professional footballer *John Gill (American football) ...
. : :* ''Le Joker'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1953 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by . : :* ''Marie-Rose'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
(
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1946 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by .


Solved by women

: :* ''Box Therapy'' – RMNP, ( US) – 28 July 2023 – First-ever female ascent of an , by Katie Lamb. Repeated by
Brooke Raboutou Brooke Raboutou (born April 9, 2001) is an American professional rock climber. At age 9, she ticked a and became the youngest female to climb a . At 10, she sent a and became the youngest female to climb . At 11, she became the youngest female ...
in October 2023, who suggested a downgrade to 8C. Other climbers who repeated the boulder hinted on social media shortly after Brooke ascent that the boulder was fitting in the 8C range. The consensus is not clear as the proposed grade are still split in between 8C+ and 8C. : :* ''E la nave va'' – Lindental, ( SUI) – 2003 – First-ever female ascent of an boulder traverse, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :*''Horizon'' – Mount Hiei, (
JPN Japan ( ja, 日本, or , and formally , ''Nihonkoku'') is an island country in East Asia. It is situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean, and is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan, while extending from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north ...
) – March 22, 2016 – First-ever female ascent of an , by
Ashima Shiraishi Ashima Shiraishi (白石阿島, ''Shiraishi Ashima'', born April 3, 2001) is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established ...
. :* ''Sleepy Rave'' – Hollow Mountain Cave, ( AUS) – 2 August 2016 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by
Ashima Shiraishi Ashima Shiraishi (白石阿島, ''Shiraishi Ashima'', born April 3, 2001) is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established ...
. :* ''Kryptos'' – Morchelstock, Balsthal, ( SUI) – June, 2018 – Third-ever female ascent of an , by
Kaddi Lehmann Kaddi (کڈی) (also known as Kaday or کډے in Pashto language, Pashto) is a village in the Swabi District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa. The inhabitants belong to Aba Khel (tribe), Aba Khel subtribe of Mandanr Yusafzai Pakhtuns who ...
. :* ''Byaku-dou'' – Mount Hurai, (
JPN Japan ( ja, 日本, or , and formally , ''Nihonkoku'') is an island country in East Asia. It is situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean, and is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan, while extending from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north ...
) – May 5, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an , by Mishka Ishi. : :* ''La traversia De Balzola'' – Balzola, (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) – 2002 – First-ever female ascent of an boulder traverse, by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. :* ''Catharsis'' – Shiobara, (
JPN Japan ( ja, 日本, or , and formally , ''Nihonkoku'') is an island country in East Asia. It is situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean, and is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan, while extending from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north ...
) – 20 October 2012 – First-ever female ascent of an , by
Tomoko Ogawa is a Japanese boulderer. In 2012, she sent ''Catharsis'', a boulder route in Shiobara established by Dai Koyamada, and confirmed by Daniel Woods, to become the first-ever woman to climb a route. Since then, only three other women -- Ashima Shi ...
. :* ''Golden Shadow'' –
Rocklands Rocklands is a civil parish in the English county of Norfolk which encompasses the villages of Rockland All Saints and Rockland St Peter. It covers an area of and had a population of 702 in 282 households at the 2001 census, increasing to ...
, ( RSA) – 11 July 2014 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by
Ashima Shiraishi Ashima Shiraishi (白石阿島, ''Shiraishi Ashima'', born April 3, 2001) is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established ...
. :* ''New Base Line'' – Magic Wood, ( SUI) – 12 July 2014 – Third-ever female ascent of an , by
Shauna Coxsey Shauna Coxsey (born 27 January 1993) is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition climbin ...
. : :* ''The Automator'' – RMNP, ( US) – 17 August 2010 – First-ever female ascent of an , by
Angie Payne Angela Payne (born November 6, 1984) is an American rock climber specializing in bouldering, who won a clean sweep of the 2003-2004 US American Bouldering Series, and who in 2010, became the first-ever female in history to climb an boulder. Ea ...
. :* ''The Riverbed'' – Magic Wood, ( SUI) – 16 September 2010 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by
Anna Stöhr Anna Stöhr (born 25 April 1988 in Reith im Alpbachtal, Austria) is a professional climber. She is a champion in bouldering climbing competitions. She won four Bouldering World Cups, in 2008, 2011, 2012 and 2013 and two World Championships, in 20 ...
. :* ''Crow of Aragorn'' –
Hueco Tanks Hueco Tanks is an area of low mountains and historic site in El Paso County, Texas, in the United States. It is located in a high-altitude desert basin between the Franklin Mountains to the west and the Hueco Mountains to the east. ''Hueco'' is ...
, ( US) – 11 July 2014 – Third-ever female ascent of , by
Ashima Shiraishi Ashima Shiraishi (白石阿島, ''Shiraishi Ashima'', born April 3, 2001) is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established ...
, and youngest (age 10). : :* ''Liaison Futile'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 13 April 1999 – First-ever female ascent of an , by . :* ''Atomic Playboy'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 2 March 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by . :* ''Solaris'' – Baltzoia, (
SPA A spa is a location where mineral-rich spring water (and sometimes seawater) is used to give medicinal baths. Spa towns or spa resorts (including hot springs resorts) typically offer various health treatments, which are also known as balneoth ...
) – 15 April 2003 – Third-ever female to ascend a , by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. : :* ''Duel'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – October, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an , by . :* ''Berezi'' – Larraona, (
SPA A spa is a location where mineral-rich spring water (and sometimes seawater) is used to give medicinal baths. Spa towns or spa resorts (including hot springs resorts) typically offer various health treatments, which are also known as balneoth ...
) – 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus , by
Josune Bereziartu Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, and is regarded as one of ...
. : :* ''Sale gosse assis'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an , by . :* ''Plain High Drifter'' –
The Buttermilks The Buttermilks, or Buttermilk Country, is a well known bouldering destination near Bishop, California. It comprises the western edge of the Owens Valley, in the eastern foothills of the Sierra Nevada. Buttermilk Country is renowned for its large ...
, ( US) – March, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus , by
Lisa Rands Lisa Rands (born October 21, 1975) is an American rock climber. She is known for her bouldering for which in 2002, she became the first American female to win IFSC World Cup bouldering competitions, and topped the IFSC world boulder rankings in ...
. : :* ''Halloween'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1997/96 – First-ever female ascent of a , by . :* ''Le Grande Bleu'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of a , by . : :* ''Miss World'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1996 – First-ever female ascent of a , by . :* ''Mayonnaise de Passion'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1996 – Second-ever female ascent of a , by . : :* ''Le Carnage'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1989 – First-ever female ascent of a , by . :* ''Trois graines d'éternité'' –
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (; ) is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the ''arrondissement ...
, (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) – 1995 – Second-ever female ascent of a , by Dany Riche. :* ''
Midnight Lightning ''Midnight Lightning'' is a posthumous compilation album by American rock guitarist Jimi Hendrix. It was released in November 1975 by Reprise Records in the US and Polydor Records in the UK. It was the second to be produced by Alan Douglas and ...
'' – Camp 4,
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
, ( US) – 1998 – Notable female ascent of a famous , by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
.


Multi-pitch routes

Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and
big wall Big wall climbing is a type of rock climbing where a climber ascends a long multi-pitch route, normally requiring more than a single day to complete the climb. Big wall routes require the climbing team to live on the route often using portaledges ...
routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the ''
Salathé Wall The ''Salathé Wall'' is one of the original technical climbing routes up El Capitan, a high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park. The ''Salathé Wall'' was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbing in ...
'' and ''Dawn Wall''), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.


Redpointed

: :* ''The Dawn Wall'' (3,000-feet, 32-pitches) –
El Capitan El Capitan ( es, El Capitán; "the Captain" or "the Chief") is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granit ...
,
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
(USA) – 14 January 2015 – First-ever big wall redpoint at , by
Tommy Caldwell Tommy Caldwell (born August 11, 1978) is an American rock climber who has set records in sport climbing, traditional climbing, and in big-wall climbing. Caldwell made the first free ascents of several major routes on El Capitan in Yosemite Natio ...
and
Kevin Jorgeson Kevin Jorgeson (born October 7, 1984) is an American rock climber. He was one of the first two climbers, alongside his climbing partner Tommy Caldwell, to successfully complete a free climb of the Dawn Wall of El Capitan in Yosemite National Par ...
in 19 days. First repeat on 21 November 2016 by
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
in 8 days, and
led A light-emitting diode (LED) is a semiconductor Electronics, device that Light#Light sources, emits light when Electric current, current flows through it. Electrons in the semiconductor recombine with electron holes, releasing energy i ...
all 32-pitches. : :* ' (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest,
Dolomites The Dolomites ( it, Dolomiti ; Ladin: ''Dolomites''; german: Dolomiten ; vec, Dołomiti : fur, Dolomitis), also known as the Dolomite Mountains, Dolomite Alps or Dolomitic Alps, are a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. They form par ...
(ITA)– 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at , by
Alexander Huber Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968), is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He became a professional climber in 1997, and was widely regarded as the world's strongest climber in the late-1990s, and is an important figure in rock climbin ...
; repeating the route in 2007 (to create ''Pan Aroma'', also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+. : :* ''Neverending Story'' (450-metres, 11-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze,
Rätikon The Rätikon is a mountain range of the Central Eastern Alps, located at the border between Vorarlberg, Liechtenstein and Graubünden. It is the geological border between the Eastern and Western Alps and stretches from the Montafon as far as t ...
( SUI) – 1991 – First big wall free climb at , by . :* '' The Nose'' (870-metres, 31-pitches) –
El Capitan El Capitan ( es, El Capitán; "the Captain" or "the Chief") is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granit ...
,
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
(USA) – 1993 – Second big wall free climb at , by
Lynn Hill Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the ...
(partnered by Brooke Sandahl); considered as one of the most important ascents in rock climbing history, and a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill repeated it in under 24 hours; took over a decade for the first clean repeat. :* The "" of big wall routes, all freed in 1993–1994: ::* ', (250-metres, 9-pitches) –
Fleischbank The Fleischbank is a 2,187-metre-high mountain in the Wilder Kaiser range in the Northern Limestone Alps in Austria, east of Kufstein in the Tyrol. The mountain is one of the well-known climbs in the Northern Limestone Alps. The starting point fo ...
(AUT) – 1994 – Big wall free climb at , by
Stefan Glowacz Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965 in Tittmoning) is a German professional rock climber and adventurer. He started climbing at the age of 12 and advanced to one of the world's best sports climbers only few years later. Since 1993 he has been d ...
. ::* ' (350-metres, 11-pitches) –
Berchtesgaden Berchtesgaden () is a municipality in the district Berchtesgadener Land, Bavaria, in southeastern Germany, near the border with Austria, south of Salzburg and southeast of Munich. It lies in the Berchtesgaden Alps, south of Berchtesgaden; the ...
(GER) – 1994 – Big wall free climb at , by
Thomas Huber Thomas Huber (born 18 November 1966 in Palling, Bavaria) is a German climber and mountaineer. He lives in Berchtesgaden with his family. His brother and climbing partner is Alexander Huber and the two are called "Huberbuam" (Huberboys) in the Ba ...
. ::* ' (185-metres, 6-pitches) –
Rätikon The Rätikon is a mountain range of the Central Eastern Alps, located at the border between Vorarlberg, Liechtenstein and Graubünden. It is the geological border between the Eastern and Western Alps and stretches from the Montafon as far as t ...
(SWZ) – 1993 – Big wall free climb at , by . : :* ''New Age'' (150-metres, 5-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze,
Rätikon The Rätikon is a mountain range of the Central Eastern Alps, located at the border between Vorarlberg, Liechtenstein and Graubünden. It is the geological border between the Eastern and Western Alps and stretches from the Montafon as far as t ...
( SUI) – 1989 – First big wall free climb at , by . : :* ''
Salathé Wall The ''Salathé Wall'' is one of the original technical climbing routes up El Capitan, a high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park. The ''Salathé Wall'' was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbing in ...
'' (870-metres, 35-pitches) –
El Capitan El Capitan ( es, El Capitán; "the Captain" or "the Chief") is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granit ...
,
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
(USA) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at , by
Todd Skinner Todd Richard Skinner (October 27, 1958 – October 23, 2006) was an American rock climber and expert in big wall climbing. He made the first free ascents of many routes around the world, including his historic first free ascent with Paul Piana ...
and Paul Piana (alternating leads). In 1995,
Alexander Huber Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968), is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He became a professional climber in 1997, and was widely regarded as the world's strongest climber in the late-1990s, and is an important figure in rock climbin ...
led A light-emitting diode (LED) is a semiconductor Electronics, device that Light#Light sources, emits light when Electric current, current flows through it. Electrons in the semiconductor recombine with electron holes, releasing energy i ...
all 35-pitches to become the first individual to free a big wall route at the grade. : :* ''Via Acacia'' (330-metres, 9-pitches) – 5th Kirlichspitze,
Rätikon The Rätikon is a mountain range of the Central Eastern Alps, located at the border between Vorarlberg, Liechtenstein and Graubünden. It is the geological border between the Eastern and Western Alps and stretches from the Montafon as far as t ...
( SUI) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at , by . : :* ''Regular Northwest Face'' (740-meters, 24 pitches)--
Half Dome Half Dome is a granite dome at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley in Yosemite National Park, California. It is a well-known rock formation in the park, named for its distinct shape. One side is a sheer face while the other three sides are smooth ...
, Yosemite (USA)--1976--First big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson. 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the entire route at 5.12a. :* ''Hall of Mirrors'' (650-meters, 16 pitches)--Glacier Point, Yosemite (USA)--1980--Second big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Chris Cantwell, Scott Burk, Scott Cole. :* ''Amarcord'' (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze,
Rätikon The Rätikon is a mountain range of the Central Eastern Alps, located at the border between Vorarlberg, Liechtenstein and Graubünden. It is the geological border between the Eastern and Western Alps and stretches from the Montafon as far as t ...
( SUI) – 1984 – Third big wall free climb at , by .


Free-soloed

: :* '' Freerider'' (915-meters, 30-pitches) –
El Capitan El Capitan ( es, El Capitán; "the Captain" or "the Chief") is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granit ...
,
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
( US) – 3 June 2017 – First-ever big wall free solo at , by
Alex Honnold Alexander Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his Free solo climbing, free solo ascents of Big wall climbing, big walls. Honnold rose to prominence in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo El ...
; took 3 hours, 56 minutes. : :* ' (850-meters, 37-pitches) –
Marmolada Marmolada (Ladin: ''Marmolèda''; German: ''Marmolata'', ) is a mountain in northeastern Italy and the highest mountain of the Dolomites (a section of the Alps). It lies between the borders of Trentino and Veneto. The Marmolada is an ultra-pr ...
,
Dolomites The Dolomites ( it, Dolomiti ; Ladin: ''Dolomites''; german: Dolomiten ; vec, Dołomiti : fur, Dolomitis), also known as the Dolomite Mountains, Dolomite Alps or Dolomitic Alps, are a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. They form par ...
(Italy) – April 2007 – First-ever big wall free solo at , by Hansjorg Auer; took 2 hours, 55 minutes. :* ''The Moonlight Buttress'' (364-meters, 10-pitches) –
Zion National Park Zion National Park is an American national park located in southwestern Utah near the town of Springdale. Located at the junction of the Colorado Plateau, Great Basin, and Mojave Desert regions, the park has a unique geography and a variety ...
(USA) – 1 April 2008 – Likely the second-ever big wall free solo at , by
Alex Honnold Alexander Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his Free solo climbing, free solo ascents of Big wall climbing, big walls. Honnold rose to prominence in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo El ...
; took 83 minutes. : :* ''Romantic Warrior'' (305-meters, 9-pitches) –
Needles, California Needles is a city in San Bernardino County, California, in the Mojave Desert region of Southern California. Situated on the western banks of the Colorado River, Needles is located near the Californian border with Arizona and Nevada. The city is a ...
(USA) – 2005 – Climbed on sight. First-ever big wall free solo at , by
Michael Reardon Michael Reardon may refer to: *Michael Reardon (climber) (1965–2007), American climber, filmmaker and writer *Michael Reardon (actor), foreign actor who starred in '' Colpo rovente'' 1970 * Michael Reardon (architect), English architect, historic ...
; won ''
National Geographic ''National Geographic'' (formerly the ''National Geographic Magazine'', sometimes branded as NAT GEO) is a popular American monthly magazine published by National Geographic Partners. Known for its photojournalism, it is one of the most widely ...
'' award. : :* ''Brandler-Hasse Direttissima'' (580-meters, 17-pitches) – Cima Grande,
Dolomites The Dolomites ( it, Dolomiti ; Ladin: ''Dolomites''; german: Dolomiten ; vec, Dołomiti : fur, Dolomitis), also known as the Dolomite Mountains, Dolomite Alps or Dolomitic Alps, are a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. They form par ...
(Italy) – 2002 – First-ever big wall free solo at , by
Alexander Huber Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968), is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He became a professional climber in 1997, and was widely regarded as the world's strongest climber in the late-1990s, and is an important figure in rock climbin ...
.


See also

*
History of rock climbing In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines: bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advan ...
* Notable ascents and grade milestones in deep-water soloing * Hardest routes in traditional climbing * Evolution of grade milestones in dry-tooling * Evolution of grade milestones in mixed climbing * Evolution of grade milestones in ice climbing


Notes


References


Further reading

* American online climbing website, ''Planet Mountain'', on notable climbs, redpoints, onsight, free sole and male-female (1918–2012): * Czech climbing magazine, ''eMontana'', on men's redpointing milestones from 6a to 9c:


External links

* * {{DEFAULTSORT:rock climbing, grade milestones *grade milestones *grade milestones Free solo climbing *grade milestones History of sports Grade milestones History of climbing