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Realization (climb)
''Realization'', also called ''Biographie'', is a circa sport climbing route on a limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of . It is considered an historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade. History In 1989, French climber Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole circa 35 metre pitch, and named it ''Biographie'' (he did not climb it). In 1996, French climber freed the lower half, adding an anchor at his high-point and grading it . Petit estimated that the remaining unclimbed section was about but had a very difficult 7C boulder problem that he could not overcome. American climber Chris Sharma made over 30 attempts from 1996 to 2000 but could also not overcome the boulder move. In 2001, Sharma canceled his participation in t ...
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Céüse
Céüse (french: Montagne de Céüse) is a limestone mountain in the Hautes-Alpes ''département'' of France near Gap and Sigoyer. The "Pic de Céüse" is at an elevation of , and the whole massif is included in the Natura 2000 protected area. The mountain has a distinctive large horseshoe-shaped cliff (the Corniche de Céûse) which contains some of the most extreme sport climbing routes in the world. It is also the site of a ski resort. Naming According to ', the name "Céüse" comes from the Latin for flint, and also means "flint, pebble" in Occitan. Geology The mountain is an example of a perched syncline, which presents as a south-facing horseshoe-shaped limestone cliff. Ski resort The northern end of the mountain is the location of a small ski resort, called (or also the Gap Ceuse Ski Resort 2000); it was built after the Second World War and updated in the 1990s, and contains 8 lifts serving 35-kilometers of green, blue, red and black runs, from an elevation of to ...
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Outside (magazine)
''Outside'' is an American company and magazine focused on the outdoors. The first issue of ''Outside'' was published in September 1977. History Outside founders were Jann Wenner (the first editor in chief), William Randolph Hearst III (its first managing editor), and Jack Ford (an assistant to founding publisher Donald Welsh and a son of former U.S. President Gerald Ford). Wenner sold ''Outside'' to Lawrence J. Burke two years later. Burke merged it into his magazine ''Mariah'' (founded in 1976) and after a period of using the name ''Mariah/Outside'' kept the ''Outside'' name for the merged magazine. Christopher Keyes is the current editor. Outside, formerly Pocket Outdoor Media, acquired Outside Integrated Media in February 2021. Outside brands include Outside Magazine, Outside Business Journal, Outside Integrated Media, Outside TV, Gaia GPS, fastestknowntime.com, athleteReg, Peloton Magazine, Yoga Journal, SKI, Backpacker, VeloNews, Climbing, Rock & Ice, Gym Climber, Trai ...
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La Rambla (climb)
''La Rambla'' is a sport climb at the limestone El Pati crag in Siurana, Catalonia in Spain. Originally bolted and climbed by Alexander Huber in 1994 as a route, the bolting was later extended by to a route, which was eventually climbed by Ramón Julián Puigblanque in 2003. While there has been debate about ''La Ramblas exact grade, there is a consensus it meets the threshold, and that it is an important and historic route in rock climbing, and is one of the most attempted climbs at its grade along with '' Realization/Biographie''. History While a route was first bolted by Huber in 1993, a hold broke at the upper section and Huber was only able to climb to an intermediate anchor at , and not to his final anchor that was also the final anchor for Huber's neighboring route, ''La Reina Mora'' . Huber climbed his route in 1994, and called it ''La Rambla'', and graded it as . Huber explained in a 2008 interview that he felt his 35-metre route was no more difficult than W ...
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Action Directe (climb)
''Action Directe'' () is a short sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus grade. It is considered an important and historic route in rock climbing history, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade, where it is considered the "benchmark" for 9a. The training techniques Güllich used to prepare for the unique physical demands of ''Action Directe'' also revolutionized climbing and what could be achieved. History A close friend of Güllich, German climber Milan Sykora introduced him to the route that he had been working on at a large limestone prow at the Waldkopf crag, which was akin to an enormous boulder. Sykora was one of the leading German climbers at the time and had created several new routes UIAA grade X. In the 1980s, Sykora had bolted a line coming from the right and had managed to climb the individual ...
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Schleierfall
The Schleier Waterfall or Schleierfall, also called the Schleier, is a waterfall on the ''Rettenbach'' stream on the southern side of the ''Gamskögerl'' () in the Wilder Kaiser mountains of Austria. It is located within the district of Kitzbühel. From the waterfall the ''Rettenbach'' forms the boundary between the parishes of Going am Wilden Kaiser and St. Johann in Tirol and discharges in Rettenbach into the ''Reither Ache'' river. Access and facilities The nearest parking for the waterfall is the free Aschau car park. From there it is about a 45-minute walk for experienced walkers to the falls. As a result of its popularity, the Alpine Club has established an emergency toilet hut at the foot of the waterfall. There are also several benches. Schleierwasserfall climbing area The 60-metre-high heavily overhanging rock faces next to the waterfall are used by climbers. One particular route, known as Mongo (UIAA grade In rock climbing, mountaineering, and other climb ...
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Climbing (magazine)
''Climbing'' is a major US-based rock climbing magazine first published in 1970. In 2007, it was bought by Skram Media, the publisher of ''Urban Climber Magazine''. The headquarters of the magazine is in Boulder, Colorado. It is published nine times a year. Climbing was purchased by '' Outside'' in 2021. See also * ''Alpinist'' magazine * ''Summit'' magazine * '' Rock & Ice'' References External links * Online magazines published in the United States Sports magazines published in the United States Climbing magazines Magazines established in 1970 Magazines published in Colorado {{sport-mag-stub ...
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Glossary Of Climbing Terms
__NOTOC__ This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom. A B Completing the climb upon one's first attempt ever. Often confused with 'flashing' which is the first attempt of the day. There is a second opportunity for a climber to 'blitz' a wall after 12 months. C D E ...
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Outside (magazine)
''Outside'' is an American company and magazine focused on the outdoors. The first issue of ''Outside'' was published in September 1977. History Outside founders were Jann Wenner (the first editor in chief), William Randolph Hearst III (its first managing editor), and Jack Ford (an assistant to founding publisher Donald Welsh and a son of former U.S. President Gerald Ford). Wenner sold ''Outside'' to Lawrence J. Burke two years later. Burke merged it into his magazine ''Mariah'' (founded in 1976) and after a period of using the name ''Mariah/Outside'' kept the ''Outside'' name for the merged magazine. Christopher Keyes is the current editor. Outside, formerly Pocket Outdoor Media, acquired Outside Integrated Media in February 2021. Outside brands include Outside Magazine, Outside Business Journal, Outside Integrated Media, Outside TV, Gaia GPS, fastestknowntime.com, athleteReg, Peloton Magazine, Yoga Journal, SKI, Backpacker, VeloNews, Climbing, Rock & Ice, Gym Climber, Tra ...
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Rock & Ice
''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became equal partners in September that year. The magazine was bought out within the first year by George Bracksieck, who remained publisher and editor the end of December 1997. His company, Eldorado Publishing, sold Rock & Ice to North-South Publications, an investment group led by Dougald MacDonald. After a few years, it was sold to Big Stone. The magazine is published eight times a year. It was headquartered in Boulder, Colorado until 2002, when it moved to Carbondale, Colorado. Rock & Ice was purchased by Outside in 2021. The cover of the first issue featured Alex Lowe climbing the first ascent of ''The Fang'' in Vail, Colorado Vail is a home rule municipality in Eagle County, Colorado, United States. The population of the town was 4 ...
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Margo Hayes
Margo Hayes (born February 11, 1998) is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the Bouldering and Lead Climbing events at the World Youth Championships in Guangzhou ( China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a graded route. Early life Originally a gymnast who trained at CATS Gymnastics in Boulder, Hayes began climbing at age 10. She joined Team ABC, a renowned youth climbing program in Boulder, where she was coached by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou. Hayes' grandfather, Dr. James Morrissey, led the first successful climb of the Kangshung Face on Mt. Everest and her father spent time climbing in Yosemite Valley. Climbing career Competition climbing As part of the US National Team, Hayes has competed in all three disciplines (lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering) of the International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions. In 2015, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy Hayes won silv ...
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Dave Graham (climber)
David Ethan Graham (born November 10, 1981) is an American professional rock climber. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbers and boulderers of his generation. Graham repeats classic routes or boulder problems as well as performing cutting-edge first ascents. He is known for climbing, in 2005 an boulder problem (''The Story Of Two Worlds'', Cresciano, Switzerland). He is also known for his stance against grade inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic. He writes an ongoing blog for the website of Climbing Magazine. Biography Born in Maine, Graham was introduced to climbing in 1997 by one of his skiing teammates. Within a year, he climbed a route, ''The Present''. Quickly, he became one of the strongest climbers in the United States, before moving to Europe in 2005. In 2005, he climbed an boulder problem (''The Story Of Two Worlds'', Cresciano, Switzerland), and his first route (''Coup de Grace'', Val Bavona, Switzerland). ...
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Patxi Usobiaga
Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (born September 7, 1980), best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an route. Biography Usobiaga started climbing in Atxarte when he was 10 years old. For four years he was belayed by his father. When he was 15, he climbed his first 8a route, ''ConanDax Librarian'', in Araotz. When he was 18 he redpointed his first 8b route, ''Parva Naturalia'', in Araotz. From 1997 to 1999 he participated in youth competitions. In 2000, he started competing at the Lead Climbing World Cup. In 2003 he earned his first gold medal in Edinburgh. When he was 26 he earned his first Lead climbing World Cup. Next year, he won his second one. Due to these outstanding achievements he was awarded the Salewa Rock Award in 2007. In 2009 he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Qinghai (CHN). ...
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