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Action Directe (climb)
''Action Directe'' () is a short sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus grade. It is considered an important and historic route in rock climbing history, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade, where it is considered the "benchmark" for 9a. The training techniques Güllich used to prepare for the unique physical demands of ''Action Directe'' also revolutionized climbing and what could be achieved. History A close friend of Güllich, German climber Milan Sykora introduced him to the route that he had been working on at a large limestone prow at the Waldkopf crag, which was akin to an enormous boulder. Sykora was one of the leading German climbers at the time and had created several new routes UIAA grade X. In the 1980s, Sykora had bolted a line coming from the right and had managed to climb the individual ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Bolt (climbing)
In rock climbing, a bolt is a permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock as a form of protection. Most bolts are either self-anchoring expansion bolts or fixed in place with liquid resin. Description While bolts are commonplace in rock and gym climbing there is no universal vocabulary to describe them. Generally, a ''bolt hanger'' or a ''fixed hanger'' is a combination of a fixed bolt and a specialized stainless steel hanger designed to accept a carabiner, whereas in certain regions a ''bolt runner'' or a ''carrot'' describes a hangerless bolt (where the climber must provide their own hanger bracket and sometimes lock nut). A ''ring bolt'' has a loop on one end so it presents as a U-shape embedded in the wall. A climbing rope is then clipped into the carabiner. Generally quickdraws or slings are employed between bolt hangers and the rope to reduce drag when ascending, belaying and rappelling. Use Bolts are used in sport climbing as a backup to catch a fall, but ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Chris Sharma
Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Realization/Biographie'', the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Gullich (who held it for almost a decade from the early 1980s), and passed it to Adam Ondra (who held it from 2012). In 2008, Sharma redpointed the world's first-ever consensus route with ''Jumbo Love'', and in 2013, became only the second-ever person to climb a route with ''La Dura Dura''. Sharma is also known for soloing the world's first-ever ('' Es Pontàs'' in 2007), and (''Alasha'' in 2016) deep-water solo routes. Sharma became one of the most commercially successful climbers in his sport, and was ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
La Rambla (climb)
''La Rambla'' is a sport climb at the limestone El Pati crag in Siurana, Catalonia in Spain. Originally bolted and climbed by Alexander Huber in 1994 as a route, the bolting was later extended by to a route, which was eventually climbed by Ramón Julián Puigblanque in 2003. While there has been debate about ''La Ramblas exact grade, there is a consensus it meets the threshold, and that it is an important and historic route in rock climbing, and is one of the most attempted climbs at its grade along with '' Realization/Biographie''. History While a route was first bolted by Huber in 1993, a hold broke at the upper section and Huber was only able to climb to an intermediate anchor at , and not to his final anchor that was also the final anchor for Huber's neighboring route, ''La Reina Mora'' . Huber climbed his route in 1994, and called it ''La Rambla'', and graded it as . Huber explained in a 2008 interview that he felt his 35-metre route was no more difficult than W ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Alexander Huber
Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968), is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He became a professional climber in 1997, and was widely regarded as the world's strongest climber in the late-1990s, and is an important figure in rock climbing history. Huber has set records in several different rock climbing disciplines, including extreme free solos, new hardest sport climbing routes, and bold first free ascents in big wall climbing. Early life and education Huber was born on 30 December 1968, in Trostberg in Bavaria, the second of three children. His father Thomas, already an established climber who had climbed the north face of Les Droites, and his mother Maria, take the children climbing and mountaineering from a young age. Huber's first four-thousand-metre mountain is Allalinhorn in 1981, his first rock climb is ''Alte Westwand'' on the Kleiner Watzmann in 1982, and his first full alpine climbing multi-pitch route is ''Raunachtstanz'' (VI+, 6a+) on the Wagendrischelhor ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Alex Megos
Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to on-sight (climb on the first try without prior practice or advice) a route graded . He has completed multiple routes and boulder problems that are notoriously difficult, including two routes (''Perfecto Mundo'' and ''Bibliographie''), six routes (''First Round, First Minute'', ''Fight Club,'' ''King Capella,'' ''Ratstaman Vibrations,'' and ''The Full Journey''), and some boulders with a confirmed rating. Climbing career Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. In 2006, Megos began training in the mountainous region of his native Bavaria, known as Franconian Switzerland, and later at the German Alpine Club's national climbing center in Erlangen-Nuremberg. There, he was mentored by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who continue to train and coach Megos to this day. In 2007, Megos completed his first . Two y ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Campus Board
A campus board is a training tool that has been widely adopted by sport climbers to improve their plyometric performance; it was invented in 1988 by German climber Wolfgang Güllich to help him climb the world's hardest-ever route, '' Action Directe'', and has since become a standard training tool for climbers. Description Typically, a user ascends or descends the campus board using only their hands, and often leaping from hold to hold (i.e both hands are off the board while transitioning between holds). Campus boards can take a variety of different forms and may incorporate a variety of materials. The earliest campus boards, and still used today, were made of horizontal thin slats or rails of wood attached to an inclined board in a ladderlike configuration. Later versions have utilized bolt-on climbing holds or sections of a pipe. A campus board is generally set at an overhanging angle of inclination. One consideration for selecting the angle of inclination is the avoidance of ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Plyometrics
Plyometrics, also known as jump training or plyos, are exercises in which muscles exert maximum force in short intervals of time, with the goal of increasing power (speed-strength). This training focuses on learning to move from a muscle extension to a contraction in a rapid or "explosive" manner, such as in specialized repeated jumping. Plyometrics are primarily used by athletes, especially martial artists, sprinters and high jumpers, to improve performance, and are used in the fitness field to a much lesser degree. Overview Plyometrics include explosive exercises to activate the quick response and elastic properties of the major muscles. It was initially adopted by Soviet Olympians in the 1950s, and then by sportspeople worldwide. Sports using plyometrics include basketball, tennis, badminton, squash and volleyball as well as the various codes of football. The term "plyometrics" was coined by Fred Wilt after watching Soviet athletes prepare for their events in track and fiel ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Action Directe 11 (9a), Foto Jorgos Megos
Action may refer to: * Action (narrative), a literary mode * Action fiction, a type of genre fiction * Action game, a genre of video game Film * Action film, a genre of film * ''Action'' (1921 film), a film by John Ford * ''Action'' (1980 film), a film by Tinto Brass * ''Action 3D'', a 2013 Telugu language film * ''Action'' (2019 film), a Kollywood film. Music * Action (music), a characteristic of a stringed instrument * Action (piano), the mechanism which drops the hammer on the string when a key is pressed * The Action, a 1960s band Albums * ''Action'' (B'z album) (2007) * ''Action!'' (Desmond Dekker album) (1968) * ''Action Action Action'' or ''Action'', a 1965 album by Jackie McLean * ''Action!'' (Oh My God album) (2002) * ''Action'' (Oscar Peterson album) (1968) * ''Action'' (Punchline album) (2004) * ''Action'' (Question Mark & the Mysterians album) (1967) * ''Action'' (Uppermost album) (2011) * ''Action'' (EP), a 2012 EP by NU'EST * ''Action'', a 1984 albu ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Bouldering
Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help secure footholds, chalk to keep their hands dry and to provide a firmer grip, and bouldering mats to prevent injuries from falls. Unlike free solo climbing, which is also performed without ropes, bouldering problems (the sequence of moves that a climber performs to complete the climb) are usually less than tall. Traverses, which are a form of boulder problem, require the climber to climb horizontally from one end to another. Artificial climbing walls allow boulderers to climb indoors in areas without natural boulders. In addition, bouldering competitions take place in both indoor and outdoor settings. The sport was originally a method of training for roped climbs and mountaineering, so climbers could practice specific moves at a safe dist ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Rock & Ice
''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became equal partners in September that year. The magazine was bought out within the first year by George Bracksieck, who remained publisher and editor the end of December 1997. His company, Eldorado Publishing, sold Rock & Ice to North-South Publications, an investment group led by Dougald MacDonald. After a few years, it was sold to Big Stone. The magazine is published eight times a year. It was headquartered in Boulder, Colorado until 2002, when it moved to Carbondale, Colorado. Rock & Ice was purchased by Outside in 2021. The cover of the first issue featured Alex Lowe climbing the first ascent of ''The Fang'' in Vail, Colorado Vail is a home rule municipality in Eagle County, Colorado, United States. The population of the town was 4 ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Climbing (magazine)
''Climbing'' is a major US-based rock climbing magazine first published in 1970. In 2007, it was bought by Skram Media, the publisher of ''Urban Climber Magazine''. The headquarters of the magazine is in Boulder, Colorado. It is published nine times a year. Climbing was purchased by '' Outside'' in 2021. See also * ''Alpinist'' magazine * ''Summit'' magazine * ''Rock & Ice ''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became e ...'' References External links * Online magazines published in the United States Sports magazines published in the United States Climbing magazines Magazines established in 1970 Magazines published in Colorado {{sport-mag-stub ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Mélissa Le Nevé
Mélissa Le Nevé (born July 8, 1989) is a French professional rock climber specializing in competition bouldering, but and also in outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. Early life Le Nevé grew up in the Vosges until she was 10, and later began climbing at age 15, at a gym near Bordeaux. Climbing career Competition climbing Le Nevé focused her competition climbing career on the discipline of bouldering. Le Nevé was the French women's bouldering champion in 2010 and 2013, placed fourth in the 2011 IFSC Bouldering World Cup overall standings, and placed 2nd at individual IFSC World Cup events in Slovenia (2013), Switzerland (2016), and Japan (2016). She retired from competitive climbing in 2016, after finishing third in that year's IFSC Bouldering World Cup. Rock climbing In 2015, she became the first woman to climb a set of boulders in Fontainebleau called the "Big Five", one of which–''Atrésie''–is rated . In December 2016, she climbed an boulder in Fontainebleau, ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
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