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Redpoint (climbing)
In rock climbing, redpointing means to free-climb a route while lead climbing, but only after having practiced the route beforehand (either by hangdogging or top roping), or after having fallen or rested on the rope, on the first attempt. Climbers will try to redpoint a route after having failed to on-sight it (free climb the route on the first attempt with no falls and no prior information), or flash it (free climb the route on the first attempt with no falls but with prior information). Redpointing is sometimes narrowly defined as climbing a route after a failed first attempt (regardless of how long ago, or how many failures occurred). Description Climbers can rest during a redpoint ascent, but not using the rope or any artificial aids (e.g. they can hang off the holds, or use a kneebar). Where the climber falls on a redpoint ascent, they must return to the very bottom, pull their rope free of the route, and completely re-start the ascent from scratch. Redpointing differs ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Kurt Albert
Kurt Albert (January 28, 1954 – September 28, 2010) was a climber and photographer. He started climbing at the age of 14. Before he committed himself to a career of climbing in 1986, he was a mathematics and physics teacher. Climbing career At the age of seventeen, he climbed the Walker Spur in the Grandes Jorasses, and one year later he climbed the north face of the Eiger. After a visit to the Saxon Switzerland climbing area in Saxony, Germany in 1973 he recognized the potential of free climbing. He started to free climb in his home climbing area, the Frankenjura. In the routes, he would now try to ascend while free climbing, he would—in between attempts—paint a red 'X' on the rocks near pitons he did not need as holds or steps. Once he could place a red 'X' on all the pitons and hooks in the route, and was thus able to free climb the entire route, he would paint a red dot at the base of the route. From this comes the English term "redpoint", which is derived fr ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Piton
A piton (; also called ''pin'' or ''peg'') in climbing is a metal spike (usually steel) that is driven into a crack or seam in the climbing surface using a climbing hammer, and which acts as an anchor for protecting the climber against the consequences of falling or to assist progress in aid climbing. Pitons are equipped with an eye hole or a ring to which a carabiner is attached; the carabiner can then be directly or indirectly connected to a climbing rope. Pitons were the original form of protection and are still used where there is no alternative. Repeated hammering and extraction of pitons damage the rock, and climbers who subscribe to the clean climbing ethic avoid their use as much as possible. With the popularization of clean climbing in the 1970s, pitons were largely replaced by faster and easier-to-use clean protection, such as nuts and camming devices. Pitons are still found in place (as "fixed" pitons) on some established free climbing routes, as fixed bela ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Alex Megos
Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to on-sight (climb on the first try without prior practice or advice) a route graded . He has completed multiple routes and boulder problems that are notoriously difficult, including two routes (''Perfecto Mundo'' and ''Bibliographie''), six routes (''First Round, First Minute'', ''Fight Club,'' ''King Capella,'' ''Ratstaman Vibrations,'' and ''The Full Journey''), and some boulders with a confirmed rating. Climbing career Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. In 2006, Megos began training in the mountainous region of his native Bavaria, known as Franconian Switzerland, and later at the German Alpine Club's national climbing center in Erlangen-Nuremberg. There, he was mentored by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who continue to train and coach Megos to this day. In 2007, Megos completed his first . Two y ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Pink Point
Pink is the color of a namesake flower that is a pale tint of red. It was first used as a color name in the late 17th century. According to surveys in Europe and the United States, pink is the color most often associated with charm, politeness, sensitivity, tenderness, sweetness, childhood, femininity, and romance. A combination of pink and white is associated with chastity and innocence, whereas a combination of pink and black links to eroticism and seduction. In the 21st century, pink is seen as a symbol of femininity, though this has not always been true; in the 1920s, pink was seen as a color that reflected masculinity. In nature and culture File:Color icon pink v2.svg, Various shades of pink File:Dianthus.jpg, The color pink takes its name from the flowers called pinks, members of the genus ''Dianthus''. File:Rosa Queen Elizabeth1ZIXIETTE.jpg, In most European languages, pink is called ''rose'' or ''rosa'', after the rose flower. File:Cherry blossoms in the Tsu ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Traditional Climbing
Traditional climbing (or Trad climbing) is a style of rock climbing in which the climber places all the necessary protection gear required to arrest any falls as they are climbing, and then removes it when the pitch is complete (often done by the second/follow-on climber). Traditional bolted aid climbing means the bolts were placed while on lead and/or with hand drills (the bolts tend to be much farther apart than for sport climbs). Traditional climbing carries a higher level of risk than bolted sport climbing, as the climber may not have placed the safety equipment correctly while trying to ascend the route; for some of the world's hardest climbs (e.g. '' Realization/Biographie''), there may not be sufficient cracks or features in the rock that can accept protection gear, and the climb can only be safely attempted by bolting as a sport climb. Overview Characterizing climbing as ''traditional'' distinguishes it from bolted climbing—either trad bolted or sport climbing ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Flash (rock Climbing)
__NOTOC__ This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and ... and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom. A B Completing the climb upon one's first attempt ever. Often confused with 'flashing' which is the first attempt of the day. There is a second opportunity for a climber to 'blitz' a wall after 12 months. C ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Sport Climbing
Sport climbing (or Bolted climbing) is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors (or bolts), permanently fixed into the rock for climber protection, in which a rope that is attached to the climber is clipped into the anchors to arrest a fall; it can also involve climbing short distances with a crash pad underneath as protection. This is in contrast to traditional climbing where climbers must place removable protection as they climb. Sport climbing usually involves lead climbing and toproping techniques, but free solo and deep-water solo (i.e. no protection) climbing on sport routes is also sometimes possible. Since sport climbing routes do not need to follow traditional climbing route lines where protection can be placed into natural features (e.g. cracks), they tend to follow more direct lines up crags. This aspect, in addition to the lack of any need to install protection during the climb (e.g. the sport climber just clips into pre-installed bolts along th ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Julia Chanourdie
Julia Chanourdie (born 25 June 1996) is a French professional rock climber. She is mainly active in lead climbing competitions. She also climbs outdoors, and on November 7, 2020, she became the second-ever female in history to climb a route, ''Eagle–4'' in Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux, France. Chanourdie won the bronze medal at The World Games 2017 in Wrocław, Poland. Notable ascents Redpoint * **''Eagle–4'', Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux, 7 November 2020, second-ever female in history to climb 9b (after Angela Eiter) * **''Super Crackinette'', Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux, 13 March 2020 * **''Ground Zero'', Tetto di Sarre, 25 March 2017 **''Molasse’son'', Mollans, 5 April 2018 Rankings Climbing World Cup Climbing World Championships Youth Adult Climbing European Championships Youth Adult Rock Masters Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup Lead See also *History of rock climbing *List of first ascents (sport climbing) In rock climbing, a first ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Laura Rogora
Laura Rogora (born 28 April 2001) is an Italian sport climber. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined sport climbing. In 2015, she became the second youngest climber, at age 14, to complete a route. In 2019, Rogora qualified to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games, finished 2nd in lead at the IFSC Climbing European Championships and won 3 of 4 possible gold medals at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships, coming first in lead, boulder and combined categories in the Junior age group. Notable ascents On-sight * ** ''Ixeia'', Rodellar, Spain, July 2020 ** ''L-mens'', Montsant, Spain, January 2020 Redpoint * 9b (5.15b) **''Erebor'', Italy, October 2021 (bolted and first ascended by Stefano Ghisolfi); only third-ever woman in history to climb a 9b route. * ** ''Ali Hulk Sit Extension Total'', Rodellar, Spain, July 2020 (was once considered potential 9b) **''Pure Dreaming Plus'', Arco, Italy, 30 May 2020 (First female ascent and first repeat ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Angela Eiter
Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional rock climber. She is a champion in lead climbing competitions, winning three IFSC Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, from 2004 to 2006 and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a route, ''La Planta de Shiva''. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent of a route, ''Madame Ching''. Climbing career Competition climbing Eiter started climbing at age eleven when her school offered her the chance to try the sport. Her parents accompanied her to the climbing gym in Imst. At fifteen, she climbed her first indoor . In 2002, having reached the age of sixteen, she began to participate in the World Cup lead climbing. In 2003, she won her first Cup race at Aprica. S ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Chris Sharma
Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Realization/Biographie'', the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Gullich (who held it for almost a decade from the early 1980s), and passed it to Adam Ondra (who held it from 2012). In 2008, Sharma redpointed the world's first-ever consensus route with ''Jumbo Love'', and in 2013, became only the second-ever person to climb a route with ''La Dura Dura''. Sharma is also known for soloing the world's first-ever ('' Es Pontàs'' in 2007), and (''Alasha'' in 2016) deep-water solo routes. Sharma became one of the most commercially successful climbers in his sport, and was ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
La Dura Dura
''La Dura Dura'' is a sport climbing route on the limestone cliffs at Peramola, a village in Oliana, Spain. The route was bolted and developed by American climber Chris Sharma in 2009 who had almost given up believing he could climb it until a collaboration with Czech climber Adam Ondra led to Ondra climbing the route on 7 February 2013, followed by Sharma on 23 March 2013. ''La Dura Dura'' became one of the List of first ascents (sport climbing)#Redpointed by men, first rock climbs in the world to achieve a grade of , and was the first consensus grade at that level (i.e. more than one climber agreed to it). The route has not been repeated since Ondra's and Sharma's 2013 ascents. Being two of the leading rock climbers in the world at that time, their unique collaboration was widely followed in the climbing media; it is an important route in history of rock climbing#2000s, rock climbing history. History American climber Chris Sharma had been pushing the standards of sport c ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
