Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in

Arzl im Pitztal Arzl im Pitztal is a municipality and a townHaufendorf in the district of Imst in the Austrian state of Tyrol. Geography The stream Pitze flows through the municipality. Population Personalities The professional skier Benjamin Raich Benjami ...

) is an

Austrian Austrian may refer to: * Austrians, someone from Austria or of Austrian descent ** Someone who is considered an Austrian citizen, see Austrian nationality law * Austrian German dialect * Something associated with the country Austria, for example: ...

professional rock climber. She is a champion in lead

climbing competitions A climbing competition (or comp) is usually held indoors on purpose built climbing wall A climbing wall is an artificially constructed wall with grips for hands and feet, usually used for indoor climbing, but sometimes located outdoors. Some ...

, winning three IFSC Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, from 2004 to 2006 and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a route, ''La Planta de Shiva''. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the

first free ascent In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they en ...

of a route, ''Madame Ching''.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Eiter started climbing at age eleven when her school offered her the chance to try the sport. Her parents accompanied her to the

climbing gym A climbing gym is a gym dedicated to indoor climbing. Climbing gyms have climbing walls that can be used for leading, top roping, and bouldering. They sometimes offer training equipment to improve technique, strength, and endurance. Contents of ...

Imst Imst (; Southern Bavarian: ''Imscht'') is a town in the Austrian federal state of Tyrol. It lies on the River Inn in western Tyrol, some west of Innsbruck and at an altitude of above sea level. With a current population (2013) of 9,552, Im ...

. At fifteen, she climbed her first indoor . In 2002, having reached the age of sixteen, she began to participate in the World Cup lead climbing. In 2003, she won her first Cup race at

Aprica Aprica ( lmo, Abriga) is a town and ''comune'' in the province of Sondrio, Lombardy, northern Italy. It is located on the eponymous pass, the most favourable one connecting Valtellina to Val Camonica. Its main source of income is tourism, using ...

. Since then she has won three World Cups in a row: in 2004, in 2005, winning eight out of nine events and in 2006, winning seven out of ten events. She won four world championships in the lead climbing specialty: the 2005 edition in

Munich Munich ( ; german: München ; bar, Minga ) is the capital and most populous city of the German state of Bavaria. With a population of 1,558,395 inhabitants as of 31 July 2020, it is the third-largest city in Germany, after Berlin and Ha ...

, the 2007 edition in Avilés, the 2011 edition in Arco, and the 2012 edition in

Paris Paris () is the Capital city, capital and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, most populous city of France, with an estimated population of 2,165,423 residents in 2019 in an area of more than 105 km² (41 sq mi), ma ...

. For her achievements she was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2006. In September 2008, during the third round of the World Cup in Bern, she had a serious accident damaging her left shoulder, for which she underwent

arthroscopic surgery Arthroscopy (also called arthroscopic or keyhole surgery) is a minimally invasive surgical procedure on a joint in which an examination and sometimes treatment of damage is performed using an arthroscope, an endoscope that is inserted into the ...

. She had to prematurely end the season and deal with nine months' rehabilitation. She started to compete the following July at the Climbing World Championship 2009 in

Qinghai Qinghai (; alternately romanized as Tsinghai, Ch'inghai), also known as Kokonor, is a landlocked province in the northwest of the People's Republic of China. It is the fourth largest province of China by area and has the third smallest po ...

Rock climbing

On September 6, 2014, Eiter climbed the route ''Hades'' at

Nassereith Nassereith is a municipality and a village in the Imst district of Austria and is located 11 km north of Imst on the upper course of the Gurgl brook The Gurglbach is a river of Tyrol, Austria. The Gurglbach originates on the rock face nea ...

Austria Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...

. She is the sixth woman to climb this grade or higher. On October 22, 2017, she climbed ''La Planta de Shiva'' ( Villanueva del Rosario,

Spain , image_flag = Bandera de España.svg , image_coat = Escudo de España (mazonado).svg , national_motto = ''Plus ultra'' (Latin)(English: "Further Beyond") , national_anthem = (English: "Royal March") , i ...

), widely considered to be a route, becoming the world's first-ever female to climb at grade. In 2020, she did the

(FFA) of ''Madame Ching'' (which she named after Ching Shih) in

, Austria, and suggested the grade of 9b (5.15b) for it, which would make it the world's first-ever female FFA at that grade.

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Championships

Climbing European Championships

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

: :* ''La Planta de Shiva'' - Villanueva del Rosario (

ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...

) - October 22, 2017 - World's first-ever female ascent of a 9b route. :*''Madame Ching'' -

Tyrol Tyrol (; historically the Tyrole; de-AT, Tirol ; it, Tirolo) is a historical region in the Alps - in Northern Italy and western Austria. The area was historically the core of the County of Tyrol, part of the Holy Roman Empire, Austrian Emp ...

(AUT) - December 2020 - World's first-ever new 9b route created by a female. : :* ''Pure Dreaming'' - Arco ( ITA) - June 2019 :* ''Era Vella'' - Margalef (

) - April 2015 :* ''Big Hammer'' - Pinswang (

AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) *Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations *Arriva ...

) - November 2014 :* ''Hades'' - Götterwandl (

) - September 6, 2014 : :* ''Hercules'' - Götterwandl (

) - October 2014 - First ascent :* ''Ingravids Extension'' -

Santa Linya Les Avellanes i Santa Linya is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of Noguera, in the province of Lleida, Catalonia Catalonia (; ca, Catalunya ; Aranese Occitan: ''Catalonha'' ; es, Cataluña ) is an autonomous community of Spain, design ...

(

) - November 2010 :* ''Claudio Café'' - Terra Promessa ( ITA) - 2007 : :* ''White Zombie'' - Baltzola Cave (

) - 2009 :* ''Strelovod'' - Misja Pec ( SLO) - 2008 :* ''Bodybuilding'' - Bürs (

) - 2007 :* ''Nobody is Perfect'' - Bürs (

) - 2007

Onsight NOTOC This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases d ...
ed routes

: :* ''Skyline'' - Bürs (

) - 2006

Boulder problems

: :* ''Fragile steps'' - Rocklands ( ZAF) - August 2014

References

External links

* * * {{DEFAULTSORT:Eiter, Angela Female climbers Austrian rock climbers 1986 births Living people World Games gold medalists Competitors at the 2005 World Games People from Imst District Sportspeople from Tyrol (state) 21st-century Austrian women IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists