A piton (; also called ''pin'' or ''peg'') in

climbing Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or any other part of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains (e.g. the eight thousanders), to small boulders. Climbing is done ...

is a metal spike (usually steel) that is driven into a crack or seam in the climbing surface using a climbing hammer, and which acts as an anchor for protecting the climber against the consequences of falling or to assist progress in aid climbing. Pitons are equipped with an eye hole or a ring to which a carabiner is attached; the carabiner can then be directly or indirectly connected to a climbing rope. Pitons were the original form of protection and are still used where there is no alternative. Repeated hammering and extraction of pitons damage the rock, and climbers who subscribe to the

clean climbing Clean climbing is rock climbing techniques and equipment which climbers use in order to avoid damage to the rock. These techniques date at least in part from the 1920s and earlier in England, but the term itself may have emerged in about 1970 dur ...

ethic avoid their use as much as possible. With the popularization of clean climbing in the 1970s, pitons were largely replaced by faster and easier-to-use clean protection, such as nuts and camming devices. Pitons are still found in place (as "fixed" pitons) on some established

free climbing Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber may use climbing equipment such as ropes and other means of climbing protection, but only to protect against injury during falls and not to assist vertical or horizontal progress. T ...

routes, as fixed belay station anchors, in places where nuts or cams do not work; and are used on some hard aid climbs.

Styles and shapes

Pitons are sized and manufactured to fit a wide range of cracks. From small to large, the most common are: * RURP (Realized Ultimate Reality Piton) – a tiny piton the size of a postage stamp used in thin, shallow seams. It was designed by Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard in 1959, and was manufactured by Chouinard Equipment in the 1960s. It is not a strong piece, and is mainly used for aid climbing, although it can feature as protection on extreme free routes (e.g. Rurp The Wild Berserk (E6 6b) at The Brand, Leicestershire, UK). More recent versions of the RURP include Bird Beaks and Peckers. * Knifeblade – also known as Bugaboos, are thin straight pitons, that work in thin, deep cracks. * Lost Arrow – designed by John Salathé and Yvon Chouinard, is a hot-forged, tapered piton that performs well in medium-size cracks. * Angle – A piton made of steel sheet bent into a "U", "V", or "Z" shape; work well for larger cracks, where the steel deforms elastically as the piton is placed. * Bongs – The largest pitons are angles made from aluminium sheet called bongs, named for the sound they produce while being hammered into place, or the sound they make when dropped. Bongs have become rare with the advent of camming units, nuts (chocks) which protect the same wide cracks more easily, and without causing damage to the rock. *Beaks – hooking pitons with the ability to hook, which can be placed without hammer. Known often as Birdbeaks named for Jim Bridwell whose nickname was "The Bird". First bridwell beak drawing-side

Wired Chouinard RURP.jpg, Wired Chouinard RURP File:Climbing gear - Seneca Rocks pitons - 20.jpg, Knifeblade pitons made by US army during World War II and left in Seneca Rocks File:Fichtelhaken.jpg, Soft Metal Lost Arrow File:Profilhaken.jpg, Medium size Angle File:Old ring piton.jpg, Medium size Angle in Big Cottonwood Canyon File:Old z-piton hammered into the rock.jpg, Z-shaped Angle in Echo Canyon,

Utah Utah ( , ) is a state in the Mountain West subregion of the Western United States. Utah is a landlocked U.S. state bordered to its east by Colorado, to its northeast by Wyoming, to its north by Idaho, to its south by Arizona, and to its ...

File:Old loose-ring angle piton.jpg, Old loose-ring angle piton File:Ring Piton.png, Ring Piton in placement File:Large angle piton.jpg, Large angle piton

Materials and evolution

Early pitons were made of malleable iron and soft steel and would deform to the shape of the crack when driven into the rock, which worked well in the irregular cracks found on European limestone. Soft pitons are difficult to remove without damaging the piton, so they were frequently left in place and became fixed anchor points on a climb. During climbing exploration of the hard granite in

Yosemite Valley Yosemite Valley ( ; ''Yosemite'', Miwok for "killer") is a U-shaped valley, glacial valley in Yosemite National Park in the western Sierra Nevada (U.S.), Sierra Nevada mountains of Central California. The valley is about long and deep, surroun ...

in the 1950s and 1960s, it was found that soft pitons did not work very well. The long routes developed in Yosemite made it impractical and costly to fix routes, and the soft pitons were not durable enough to be placed and removed more than a few times. Pitons needed to be removed and used again on subsequent pitches, sometimes many times. Leaving gear in place went against the ethics of many climbers. John Salathé pioneered designs using hardened steel which were much tougher than the European pitons. Salathé's pins, which he developed for a climb of the Lost Arrow, resisted deformation and were easier to remove and reuse, and were durable enough to be reused indefinitely.

In popular culture

Films

* In the

James Bond The ''James Bond'' series focuses on a fictional British Secret Service agent created in 1953 by writer Ian Fleming, who featured him in twelve novels and two short-story collections. Since Fleming's death in 1964, eight other authors hav ...

film '' For Your Eyes Only'' (1981),

(

Roger Moore Sir Roger George Moore (14 October 192723 May 2017) was an English actor. He was the third actor to portray fictional British secret agent James Bond in the Eon Productions film series, playing the character in seven feature films between 1 ...

) makes use of pitons while climbing a sheer cliff face, as a means to infiltrate the villain Kristatos' ( Julian Glover) hideout. Just before he gets to the top of the cliff, Bond is met by Apostis, one of Kristatos' assassins. Apostis tries to kill Bond by knocking his pitons out of the rock, which would cause Bond to fall to his death. Just before Apostis knocks out the last piton, Bond unclips another piton from his belt and uses it as a throwing knife, injuring Apostis and sending the assassin falling to his death. Bond is then able to infiltrate Kristatos' hideout. * Piton guns, fictional, handheld devices that shoot pitons into walls, appear in the 2004 ''

Alien vs. Predator ''Alien vs. Predator'' (also known as ''Aliens versus Predator'' and ''AVP'') is a science-fiction action horror media franchise created by comic book writers Randy Stradley and Chris Warner. The series is a crossover between, and part of, t ...

'' as part of the equipment of Charles Bishop's exploration team as they investigate what is revealed to be a pyramid where Predators breed and hunt Aliens. Team members use the guns to shoot pitons into the walls of the chasm being used to enter the pyramid, and after much of them are slaughtered in the central battle between the two species, the sole survivor, Alexa Woods ( Sanaa Lathan), uses one to kill an Alien while escaping back to the surface with the last surviving Predator, Scar, whom she allies with.

Games

* In the

video game Video games, also known as computer games, are electronic games that involves interaction with a user interface or input device such as a joystick, controller, keyboard, or motion sensing device to generate visual feedback. This feedba ...

'' I Am Alive'', the main character can also use a piton to rest and replenish their

stamina Stamina may refer to: Biology and healthcare * Endurance, the ability of an organism to exert itself and remain active for a long period of time, as well as its ability to resist, withstand, recover from, and have immunity to trauma, wounds, or fat ...

while climbing for extended periods of time. * In '' Uncharted 4: A Thief's End'', Nathan Drake acquires a piton from a hanged corpse. The tool becomes more used in the later half of the game. In '' Uncharted: The Lost Legacy'', pitons left behind by enemy mercenaries are used by Chloe Frazer and Nadine Ross. *In the Hitman World Of Assassination Trilogy, a Piton can be used as a lethal weapon to stab targets, acquired by purchasing downloadable content.

Literature

* Dan Simmons' historical fiction novel, ''The Abominable'' (2013), centers on mountain climbing and frequently depicts passages in which piton use is crucial (e.g., Chapter 5). Additionally, the world class British Alpinist, Richard Davis Deacon, sneers at the Germans' heavy use of such equipment, while the narrator, his younger American protege, deems it brilliant (Chapter 6).

Television

* In the '' MacGyver'' season 2 episode "Eagles", MacGyver must climb a mountain to save baby eagles. Short of equipment, he uses tent stakes as pitons. * The Alienist (TV series) Season 1 Episode 4 (These bloody thoughts), the two Jewish twins who works on the case, discover a metal tool on the ground of the crime scene. (the old immigration station, also known as the battery). One of the twins, called Marcus finds a 'piton' on the ground, which was used by their suspect.

References

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