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Silence (climb)
''Silence'' (also ''Project Hard''), is a severely overhanging sport climbing route in the granite Hanshelleren Cave, in Flatanger, Norway. When Czech climber Adam Ondra made the first free ascent on 3 September 2017, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a proposed climbing grade of , and it is an important route in rock climbing history. To complete the route, Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training to overcome its severely overhanging terrain. As of February 2023, ''Silence'' remains unrepeated. History Ondra bolted the route in 2012–2013while he climbed ' at Flatanger, the world's first 9b+but dropped the project for a period saying: "I could sort of imagine doing the individual moves, but I could see that linking the whole sequence, with its 8C boulder, all the way from the ground just looked way too ridiculous". After retrying it in 2015 and working through some of the technical challenges, Ondra began to commit more time to the project ca ...
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Flatanger
Flatanger is a List of municipalities of Norway, municipality in Trøndelag Counties of Norway, county, Norway. It is part of the Namdalen Districts of Norway, region. The administrative centre of the municipality is the village of Lauvsnes. Other villages include Jøssund, Flatanger, Jøssund, Hasvåg, and Vik, Trøndelag, Vik. The municipality is the 217th largest by area out of the 356 municipalities in Norway. Flatanger is the 326th most populous municipality in Norway with a population of 1,101. The municipality's population density is and its population has decreased by 3.5% over the previous 10-year period. Flatanger is also known for having some of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. General information Flatanger was established as a municipality in the old Nord-Trøndelag county on 1 January 1871 when it was separated from the large municipality of Fosnes. Initially, Flatanger had 1,472 residents. It is one of the few municipalities in Norway whose ...
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Sébastien Bouin
Sébastien Bouin, nicknamed Seb Bouin, (born 7 April 1993) is a French rock climber born in Draguignan. By 2022, Bouin was regarded as one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, being only the second-ever climber to establish a route graded , with ' in 2022, and one of only a handful of climbers to create a new route at the grade of . Bouin is also regarded for his documentary series on the history of extreme sport climbing in France. Climbing career Seb Bouin started climbing at 11 with his mother Claire. He did his first 8a at 13, first 8b at 14, first 8c at 15, and his first at 17. Unlike other leading climbers, Bouin avoided the indoor climbing competition circuit, focusing solely on finding "mega lines" on outdoor crags, which he described as his sole motivation. By 2012–13, at age 20, Bouin was starting to climb routes at 5.15 (9a/9a+) (e.g. ''Tierra Negra'' 9a/9a+, ''La Modone'' 9a+), and over the next few years would repeat the major test pieces, including ...
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Hubble (climb)
''Hubble'' is a short bolted sport climb at the limestone Raven Tor crag in Dovedale, in the Peak District in Derbyshire, England. When ''Hubble'' was first redpointed by English climber Ben Moon on 14 June 1990, it became the first-ever climb in the world to have a consensus climbing grade of ; and the highest grade in the English system at E9 7b. History Hubble was an aid climbing practice route that used skyhooks to pass the first two bolts, which English climbers Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt started working on in 1989. Moon and Moffatt had returned from a summer in France establishing some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world on the limestone walls of Buoux, including ''Agincourt'' and ''Maginot Line'', both at ; they wanted to set these new grade standards at home. Moon rebuilt the individual moves of ''Hubble'' in his basement and practiced them with Moffatt, in particular using a new device called a "Moon Board", which was not dissimilar to Wolfgan ...
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Jumbo Love
''Jumbo Love'' is a long sport climbing route on remote limestone cliffs on Clark Mountain in the Mojave Desert. Bolted by American climber Randy Leavitt in the 1990s, he invited Chris Sharma to attempt it in 2007. When Sharma completed the first free ascent on September 11, 2008, the route became the first-ever rock climb in history to have a confirmed grade of , and an important route in rock climbing history. The route has been repeated, and its grade confirmed, by a number of subsequent climbers, including French climber Seb Bouin, who made the fourth ascent on October 25, 2022. Bouin followed up his ascent by adding a direct start to the route on November 1, 2022, to create a route called ''Suprême Jumbo Love'', which at became North America's hardest climbing route and only the sixth 9b+ sport climbing route in history. History The original route was bolted by American climber Randy Leavitt in the late 1990s, who envisaged it being a 3-pitch climb. Leavitt fa ...
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La Dura Dura
''La Dura Dura'' is a sport climbing route on the limestone cliffs at Peramola, a village in Oliana, Spain. The route was bolted and developed by American climber Chris Sharma in 2009 who had almost given up believing he could climb it until a collaboration with Czech climber Adam Ondra led to Ondra climbing the route on 7 February 2013, followed by Sharma on 23 March 2013. ''La Dura Dura'' became one of the List of first ascents (sport climbing)#Redpointed by men, first rock climbs in the world to achieve a grade of , and was the first consensus grade at that level (i.e. more than one climber agreed to it). The route has not been repeated since Ondra's and Sharma's 2013 ascents. Being two of the leading rock climbers in the world at that time, their unique collaboration was widely followed in the climbing media; it is an important route in history of rock climbing#2000s, rock climbing history. History American climber Chris Sharma had been pushing the standards of sport c ...
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History Of Rock Climbing
In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines: bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the 1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA), As a free solo exercise with no artificial aid or climbing protection, bouldering remained largely consistent since its origins. Single-pitch climbing stopped ...
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Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber and sport climber. He participates in international climbing competitions in three disciplines: lead, bouldering, and speed, and has had his best results in lead climbing. As a rock climber, he had redpointed routes of grade , onsighted routes of and solved boulders at grade . In December 2018, after climbing ''Perfecto Mundo'', he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route. Climbing career Competition climbing In 2007, Ghisolfi participated in his first international competition: the IFSC European Youth Cup. Both in 2010 and 2011, he won the bronze medal in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships. In the same years, he also participated in the IFSC World Championships as a senior competitor, for all disciplines (lead, bouldering, and speed) and placed tenth in the overall ranking. On October 13, 2012, he first got on the podium in the World Cup, obtaining a bronze ...
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Pete Whittaker
Pete Whittaker (born 1991) is a British professional rock climber. He is one half of the duo known as the Wide Boyz, along with his climbing partner Tom Randall. Whittaker came to notability from crack climbing, including the first ascent of the world's hardest off-width climb, the ''Century Crack''. Climbing career In 2011, Whittaker and Randall made a visit to the United States, where he was the first to flash ''Belly Full of Bad Berries'' (5.13b), a highly regarded off-width in Indian Creek. Continuing the trip, Whittaker and Randall made the first ascent of the Century Crack (5.14b), the world's hardest off-width climb. After initially sending the route with pre-placed gear, both subsequently repeated the climb while placing their own gear. In 2014, Whittaker became the first to flash ''Freerider'' (5.12d) on El Capitan El Capitan ( es, El Capitán; "the Captain" or "the Chief") is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park ...
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Realization (climb)
''Realization'', also called ''Biographie'', is a circa sport climbing route on a limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of . It is considered an historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade. History In 1989, French climber Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole circa 35 metre pitch, and named it ''Biographie'' (he did not climb it). In 1996, French climber freed the lower half, adding an anchor at his high-point and grading it . Petit estimated that the remaining unclimbed section was about but had a very difficult 7C boulder problem that he could not overcome. American climber Chris Sharma made over 30 attempts from 1996 to 2000 but could also not overcome the boulder move. In 2001, Sharma canceled his participation in t ...
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Action Directe (climb)
''Action Directe'' () is a short sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus grade. It is considered an important and historic route in rock climbing history, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade, where it is considered the "benchmark" for 9a. The training techniques Güllich used to prepare for the unique physical demands of ''Action Directe'' also revolutionized climbing and what could be achieved. History A close friend of Güllich, German climber Milan Sykora introduced him to the route that he had been working on at a large limestone prow at the Waldkopf crag, which was akin to an enormous boulder. Sykora was one of the leading German climbers at the time and had created several new routes UIAA grade X. In the 1980s, Sykora had bolted a line coming from the right and had managed to climb the individual ...
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Grade (bouldering)
In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped climbing. Bouldering grade systems vary widely in use and include the Hueco "V" grades (known as the V-scale), Fontainebleau technical grades, route colors, Peak District grades, and British technical grades. Historically, the three-level "B" system and even the Yosemite Decimal System (sometimes with a "B" prepended, as in "B5.12") were also used. Gill "B" system The B system conceived by John Gill in the 1950s was a universal rating scheme for bouldering, having three categories: "B1" was defined as "... the highest level of difficulty in traditional roped climbing", "B2" was harder than B1, or "bouldering level", and the grade "B3" designated a route ascended only once, although tried by others on several occasions. When a B3 was ascended a second time, it was reclassified as a B2, or B1. Gill's idea was to attract ...
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Bouldering
Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help secure footholds, chalk to keep their hands dry and to provide a firmer grip, and bouldering mats to prevent injuries from falls. Unlike free solo climbing, which is also performed without ropes, bouldering problems (the sequence of moves that a climber performs to complete the climb) are usually less than tall. Traverses, which are a form of boulder problem, require the climber to climb horizontally from one end to another. Artificial climbing walls allow boulderers to climb indoors in areas without natural boulders. In addition, bouldering competitions take place in both indoor and outdoor settings. The sport was originally a method of training for roped climbs and mountaineering, so climbers could practice specific moves at a safe dist ...
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