Mannheim Kurpfalzbrücke Station

Mannheim (; Palatine German: or ), officially the University City of Mannheim (german: Universitätsstadt Mannheim), is the second-largest city in the German state of Baden-Württemberg after the state capital of Stuttgart, and Germany's 21st-largest city, with a 2020 population of 309,119 inhabitants. The city is the cultural and economic centre of the Rhine-Neckar Metropolitan Region, Germany's seventh-largest metropolitan region with nearly 2.4 million inhabitants and over 900,000 employees.

Mannheim is located at the confluence of the Rhine and the Neckar in the Kurpfalz ( Electoral Palatinate) region of northwestern Baden-Württemberg. The city lies in the Upper Rhine Plain, Germany's warmest region. Together with Hamburg, Mannheim is the only city bordering two other federal states. It forms a continuous conurbation of around 480,000 inhabitants with Ludwigshafen am Rhein in the neighbouring state of Rhineland-Palatinate, on the other side of the Rhine. Some northern suburbs of Mannheim belong to Hesse. Upstream along the Neckar lies Heidelberg, the fifth-largest city of Baden-Württemberg and the third-largest of the Rhine-Neckar Region.

Mannheim is unusual among German cities in that the city center's streets and avenues are laid out in a grid pattern, leading to its nickname ''Quadratestadt'' (''Square City''). Within a ring of avenues surrounding the city centre, there are squares numbered from A1 to U6 instead of street names. At the southern base of that system sits Mannheim Palace, one of the largest palace complexes in the world, and the second-largest in Baroque style after Versailles. It was the former home of the Prince-elector of the Electoral Palatinate, and now houses the University of Mannheim, which repeatedly receives top marks in business administration and is sometimes known as the "Harvard of Germany". The Mannheim May Market is the largest regional consumer exhibition of Germany. The civic symbol of Mannheim is the Romanesque Mannheim Water Tower, completed in 1886 and rising to above the highest point of the art nouveau area '' Friedrichsplatz''. Mannheim is well-known for its inventions, including the automobile, the bicycle, and the tractor, which is why the city is often called the "city of inventions". The city is the starting and finishing point of the Bertha Benz Memorial Route that follows the tracks of the first long-distance automobile trip in history.

A ''Großstadt'' (major city with more than 100,000 inhabitants) since 1896, Mannheim is now an important industrial and commercial city, a university town, and a major transportation hub between Frankfurt and Stuttgart, including an ICE interchange (the Mannheim Hauptbahnhof), Germany's second-largest marshalling yard (the Mannheim Rangierbahnhof), and Germany's largest inland port (the Mannheim Harbour). The city is home to many factories, offices and headquarters of several major corporations such as Roche, ABB, IBM, Siemens, Unilever and more. Mannheim's SAP Arena is home to German ice hockey record champions Adler Mannheim as well as popular handball team Rhein-Neckar Löwen. Since 2014, Mannheim has been a member of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network and holds the title of "UNESCO City of Music". In 2020, Mannheim was classified as a global city with ' Sufficiency' status by the Globalization and World Cities Research Network (GaWC). Mannheim is a smart city; the city's electrical grid is installed with a power-line communication network. The city's tourism slogan is "''Leben im Quadrat''" ("''Life in the'' ''Square''").

History

Early history

A brick kiln excavated in 1929 in the Seckenheim district, which operated from 74 AD to the early second century, attests to settlement in Roman times.

The name of the city was first recorded as ''Mannenheim'' in a legal transaction in 766, surviving in a twelfth-century copy in the '' Codex Laureshamensis'' from Lorsch Abbey. The name is interpreted as "the home of Manno", a short form of a Germanic name such as ''Hartmann'' or ''Hermann''. Mannheim remained a mere village throughout the Middle Ages.

Early Modern Age

In 1606, Frederick IV, Elector Palatine started building the fortress of Friedrichsburg and the adjacent city centre with its grid of streets and avenues. On 24 January 1607, Frederick IV gave Mannheim the status of a "city", whether it really was one by then or not.

Mannheim was mostly levelled during the Thirty Years War around 1622 by the forces of Johan Tilly. After being rebuilt, it was again severely damaged by the French Army in 1689 during the Nine Years' War.

After the rebuilding of Mannheim that began in 1698, the capital of the Electorate of the Palatinate was moved from Heidelberg to Mannheim in 1720 when Karl III Philip, Elector Palatine began construction of Mannheim Palace and the Jesuit Church; they were completed in 1760.

18th and 19th centuries

During the eighteenth century, Mannheim was the home of the " Mannheim School" of classical music composers. Mannheim was said to have one of the best court orchestras in Europe under the leadership of the conductor Carlo Grua. The royal court of the Palatinate left Mannheim in 1778. Two decades later, in 1802, Mannheim was removed from the Palatinate and given to the Grand Duchy of Baden.

In 1819, Norwich Duff wrote of Mannheim:

In 1819, August von Kotzebue was assassinated in Mannheim.

The climate crisis of 1816-17 caused famine and the death of many horses in Mannheim. That year Karl Drais invented the first bicycle.

Infrastructure improvements included the establishment of Rhine Harbour in 1828 and construction of the first Baden railway, which opened from Mannheim to Heidelberg in 1840. Influenced by the economic rise of the middle class, another golden age of Mannheim gradually began. In the March Revolution of 1848, the city was a centre for political and revolutionary activity.

In 1865, Friedrich Engelhorn founded the ''Badische Anilin- und Soda-Fabrik'' (Baden Aniline and Soda Factory, BASF) in Mannheim, but the factory was constructed across the Rhine in Ludwigshafen because Mannheim residents feared air pollution from its operations. From this dye factory, BASF has developed into the largest chemical company in the world. After opening a workshop in Mannheim in 1871 and patenting engines from 1878, Karl Benz patented the first motor car in 1886. He was born in Mühlburg (now part of Karlsruhe).

Early 20th century and World War I

The Schütte-Lanz company, founded by Karl Lanz and Johann Schütte in 1909, built 22 airships. The company's main competitor was the Zeppelin works.

When World War I broke out in 1914, Mannheim's industrial plants played a key role in Germany's war economy. This contributed to the fact that, on 27 May 1915, Ludwigshafen was the world's first civilian settlement behind the battle lines to be bombed from the air. French aircraft attacked the BASF plants, thereby killing twelve people. The precedent was set for this attack by Germany's repeated air raids against British civilian populations throughout southeastern Britain during the first half of 1915.

When Germany lost the war in 1918, according to the peace terms, the left bank of the Rhine was occupied by French troops. The French occupation lasted until 1930, and some of Ludwigshafen's most elegant houses were erected for the officers of the French garrison.

Inter-war period

After the First World War, the Heinrich Lanz Company built the Bulldog, an advanced tractor, powered by heavy oil. As a result of the invention of the pre-combustion chamber by Prosper L'Orange, Benz & Cie. developed the world's first compact diesel-powered car at its motor works in Mannheim in 1923. In 1922, the ''Grosskraftwerk Mannheim'' (Mannheim large power station) was opened. By 1930, the city, along with its sister city of Ludwigshafen, which had developed out of the old Mannheim Rheinschanze, had a population of 385,000.

World War II

During World War II, air raids on Mannheim completely destroyed the city centre. Mannheim was heavily damaged during aerial bombing by the RAF and the U.S. Air Force. The RAF razed the city center of Mannheim with nighttime area bombing, killing thousands of civilians. 2,262 of Mannheim's Jews were sent to concentration camps. Some sources state that the first deliberate terror bombing of the war occurred at Mannheim on 16 December 1940.

The Allied ground advance into Germany reached Mannheim in late March 1945, which was potentially well-defended by German forces. However, the German forces suddenly abandoned the city and the U.S. 44th Infantry Division entered unopposed on 29 March 1945. There had been a large American military occupation presence in the Mannheim area with up to 10 barracks. The first one shut down in 2007 going on until 2013 when the last one closed. (See ''United States military installations'' below).

1950s to 1980s

Rebuilding of the city began laboriously. Mannheim Palace and the water tower (''Wasserturm'') eventually were rebuilt and the National Theatre was replaced by a new building at a new location. At the old location there is a monument to Friedrich Schiller and the ''Zum Zwischen-Akt'' pub. The housing shortage led to the development of many new residential areas.

In 1964, the City Hospital (''Städtisches Krankenhaus'') became part of the Heidelberg University for Clinical Medicine in Mannheim. In 1967, the University of Mannheim was established in the city.

In 1975, the Bundesgartenschau (''Federal horticulture show'') was celebrated in Luisen and Herzogenried parks. A number of pieces of infrastructure were developed for the show: the telecommunications tower and a second bridge across the Rhine were built, the pedestrian zone was established, the new Rosengarten conference centre was opened and the Aerobus was installed as a temporary transport system.

A number of major projects were completed in the 1980s and 1990s: a planetarium, an extension to the art gallery, the new Reiß Museum, Stadthaus, a new May Market ground, synagogue, mosque, State Museum for Technology and Work, Carl-Benz stadium and the Fahrlach tunnel were opened.

Mannheim has lost many industrial jobs, although in the recent past the city was economically dominated by manufacturing. The city tried in the past to prevent the establishment of service providers by designating some locations as industrial areas. A prime example of the current trend is the construction of the Victoria Tower (Victoria-Turm) in 2001, one of the tallest buildings in the city, on railway land.

Post-reunification

Mannheim celebrated its 400th anniversary with a series of cultural and other events throughout 2007. The 400th anniversary proper was in 2006, since Frederick IV, Elector Palatine laid the foundations of Mannheim citadel on 17 March 1606. In preparation for the anniversary, some urban activities were implemented, beginning in 2000: the building of the SAP Arena with access to the city's new eastern ring road, the rehabilitation of the pedestrian zone in Breite Straße, the arsenal and the palace, the complete transformation of the old fair ground, and the new Schafweide tram line. The concept of the anniversary of the city aimed at a diverse range of events without a dominant central event. In 2001, the City hospital was officially and legally awarded with the title University Hospital Mannheim.

Geography

Climate

Mannheim is located in Germany's warmest summer region, the " Rhine shift". In summer, temperatures sometimes rise up to and higher. The highest recorded temperature was on 7 August 2015. The daily lows during heat waves can be very high by north European standards (around ). In September 2016, the average temperature in Mannheim was 18.6 °C, highest in Baden-Württemberg.

In comparison to other regions of Germany, Mannheim has a higher humidity in summer which causes a higher heat index. Snow is rare, even in the cold months. Precipitation occurs mostly during afternoon thunderstorms during the warmer period (average days of thunderstorms in a year is 40–50). Climate in this area has mild differences between highs and lows, and there is adequate rainfall year-round. The Köppen Climate Classification subtype for this climate is " Cfb" (Marine West Coast Climate/Oceanic climate).

Demographics

Population

Nationalities

The following list shows significant groups of foreigners in the city of Mannheim by nationalities. In total 44,7% of all Mannheim inhabitants are from foreign descent. With 68,9% in the Neckarstadt-West district the population is the most foreign, in the Wallstadt district with 23,1% it is the least. A large part of the immigrants are from the Balkans and European countries.

Religion

The distribution of Mannheim's population by religious affiliation (as of December 31, 2020) is Roman Catholic 25.4%, Protestant 20.0%, and other/none 54.6%.

Culture

Theatre

The National Theatre Mannheim was founded in 1779 and is the oldest "Stage" in Germany. In 1782 the premiere of ''Die Räuber'', written by Friedrich Schiller, was shown.

Recently, more smaller stages have opened, such as the Oststadt-Theater, the TIG7 (Theater im Quadrat G7), the Theater Oliv, the Freilichtbühne, the Theater31, the Theater ImPuls, the Theater Felina-Areal, the Mannheimer Puppenspiele, the Kleinkunstbühne Klapsmühl', Schatzkistl, and zeitraumexit.

Sport

There are two nationally renowned football clubs in Mannheim, SV Waldhof Mannheim, who currently are playing in the third tier 3. Liga, but who have played in the top tier, the Bundesliga; and VfR Mannheim, winner of the German championship in 1949, now playing in the sixth tier Verbandsliga Baden.

The Adler Mannheim (formerly MERC, Mannheimer Eis- und Rollsport-Club) is an ice hockey team playing in the professional Deutsche Eishockey Liga, having won the German championship a total of eight times (7 times Deutsche Eishockey Liga and one time the former highest German ice hockey league known as Bundesliga).

The city is home to the Mannheim Tornados, the oldest operational baseball and softball club in Germany. The Tornados play in the first division of the Baseball Bundesliga and have won the championship 11 times, more than any other club.

In 2003, the American football club was founded. The Mannheim Bandits are playing in the first German Football League which is called GFL1. As of 2018, between 500 and 900 people watch each game.

Rhein-Neckar Löwen are a handball team playing in the professional German Handball League.

The WWE visited Mannheim in 2008. Around 10,000 fans attended the event.

UFC fighter Dennis Siver lives and trains in Mannheim.

Mannheim hosted the European Show Jumping Championships in 1997, and the FEI European Jumping Championships in 2007 14–19 August, in the MVV-riding stadium.

In 2002, Hobby Horse Polo was invented in Mannheim, evoking the classical rivalry towards "polite society" in Heidelberg.

The Maimarkt-Turnier Mannheim is an annual international horse show held during the Mannheimer Maimarkt since 1964.

Education

The University of Mannheim is one of Germany's younger universities. Although founded in 1967, it has its origins in the ''Palatine Academy of Sciences'', established in 1763, and the former Handelshochschule (Commercial College), founded in 1907. Situated in Mannheim Palace, it is Germany's leading university in the fields of business and economics and attracts students from around the world. Described by ''Die Zeit'' as the 'Harvard of Germany', it is seen as the training grounds of German business leaders. More than 12,000 students were enrolled in the 2013/14 semester.

The university town also houses one of the medical schools of Heidelberg University (at the University Hospital Mannheim), the Hochschule Mannheim, a branch of the Duale Hochschule of the State of Baden-Württemberg and several musical and theatrical academies, including the Pop Academy Mannheim, the Musikhochschule and the Theaterakademie. These institutions draw a large and diverse student body.

Dependents of U.S. military personnel attended Mannheim Elementary School until it closed in June 2012. In the 1980s the school had 2,200 students.

Inventions

According to Forbes magazine, Mannheim is known for its exceptional inventive power and was ranked 11th among the Top 15 of the most inventive cities worldwide.

Many significant inventions were made in Mannheim:
* Karl Drais built the first two-wheeled '' draisine'' in 1817.
* Karl Benz drove the first automobile on the streets of Mannheim in 1886. At his workshop in Mannheim he produced a lightweight three-wheeled vehicle powered by a single cylinder petrol/gasoline-fueled engine, first shown in public during 1886. This powered tricycle subsequently came to be widely regarded as the first automobile/motor car powered by an internal-combustion engine. Karl's wife Bertha Benz undertook the world's first road trip by automobile from Mannheim to Pforzheim and back, about 65 miles then, on modern roads about 55 miles, in August 1888.
* The Lanz Bulldog, a popular tractor with a rugged, simple Diesel engine was introduced in 1921.
* Karl Benz developed the world's first compact diesel-powered car at the Benz & Cie. motor works in Mannheim during 1923.
* Julius Hatry built the world's first rocket plane in 1929.

File:draisine1817.jpg, The world's first bicycle, built in Mannheim by Karl Freiherr von Drais in 1817
File: 1885Benz.jpg, The world's first motorcar, built in Mannheim by Karl Benz in 1885
File:berthabenzmemorialrouteschild.jpg, Official sign of Bertha Benz Memorial Route, commemorating the world's first long-distance journey by automobile from Mannheim to Pforzheim in 1888

Government and politics

Mayor

The mayor is the head of the city council and chairman of the council, being selected by direct suffrage for a term of eight years. The current mayor is Peter Kurz from the Social Democratic Party of Germany (SPD), who was elected during 2007 with 50.53 percent on a turnout of 36.64 percent in the first round. He was reelected in 2015. The most recent mayoral election was held on 14 June 2015, with a runoff held on 5 July, and the results were as follows:

! rowspan=2 colspan=2, Candidate
! rowspan=2, Party
! colspan=2, First round
! colspan=2, Second round
, -
! Votes
! %
! Votes
! %
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, Peter Kurz
, align=left, Social Democratic Party
, 33,323
, 46.8
, 34,563
, 52.0
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, Peter Rosenberger
, align=left, Christian Democratic Union
, 24,098
, 33.8
, 29,830
, 44.9
, -
,
, align=left, Christopher Probst
, align=left, Free Voters/Mannheimer List
, 11,354
, 15.9
, align=center colspan=2, ''Withdrew''
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, Christian Sommer
, align=left, Die PARTEI
, 2,327
, 3.3
, 1,920
, 2.9
, -
, colspan=3 align=left, ''Other''
, 123
, 0.2
, 112
, 0.2
, -
! colspan=3, Valid votes
! 71,225
! 99.1
! 66,425
! 99.3
, -
! colspan=3, Invalid votes
! 641
! 0.9
! 499
! 0.7
, -
! colspan=3, Total
! 71,866
! 100.0
! 66,924
! 100.0
, -
! colspan=3, Electorate/voter turnout
! 234,081
! 30.7
! 233,134
! 28.7
, -
, colspan=7, Source
City of Mannheim

The city leaders since 1810 are:

* 1810–1820: Johann Wilhelm Reinhardt
* 1820–1832: Valentin Möhl
* 1833–1835: Heinrich Andriano
* 1836–1849: Ludwig Jolly
* 1849–1852: Friedrich Reiß
* 1852–1861: Heinrich Christian Diffené
* 1861–1870: Ludwig Achenbach
* 1870–1891: Eduard Moll
* 1891–1908: Otto Beck
* 1908–1913: Paul Martin
* 1914–1928: Theodor Kutzer
* 1928–1933: Hermann Heimerich (SPD)
* 1933–1945: Carl Renninger ( NSDAP)
* 1945–1948: Josef Braun (CDU)
* 1948–1949: Fritz Cahn-Garnier (SPD)
* 1949–1955: Hermann Heimerich (SPD)
* 1956–1972: Hans Reschke (independent)
* 1972–1980: Ludwig Ratzel (SPD)
* 1980–1983: Wilhelm Varnholt (SPD)
* 1983–2007: Gerhard Widder (SPD)
* 2007–present: Peter Kurz (SPD)

City council

The council has 48 seats and is elected by direct suffrage for five years. In the local elections in Baden-Württemberg, voters are allowed to take advantage of cumulative voting and vote splitting. Since the Second World War the SPD, except in the elections of 1999 and 2004, has received more votes than the CDU. At the 2019 election the Greens received most votes for the first time. The next municipal election will take place in 2024.

The most recent city council election was held on 26 May 2019, and the results were as follows:

! colspan=2, Party
! Votes
! %
! +/-
! Seats
! +/-
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, Alliance 90/The Greens (Grüne)
, 1,235,924
, 24.4
, 8.1
, 12
, 4
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, Social Democratic Party (SPD)
, 1,071,597
, 21.2
, 6.1
, 10
, 3
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, Christian Democratic Union (CDU)
, 968,098
, 19.1
, 7.0
, 9
, 3
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, Alternative for Germany (AfD)
, 465,694
, 9.2
, 1.4
, 4
, ±0
, -
,
, align=left, Free Voters/Mannheimer List (ML)
, 372,461
, 7.4
, 1.9
, 4
, ±0
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, Free Democratic Party (FDP)
, 307,305
, 6.1
, 1.6
, 3
, 1
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, The Left (Die Linke)
, 302,685
, 6.0
, 0.2
, 3
, ±0
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, Die PARTEI (PARTEI)
, 151,449
, 3.0
, New
, 1
, New
, -
,
, align=left, Middle-Class for Mannheim (MfM)
, 67,163
, 1.3
, 0.1
, 1
, ±0
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, Human Environment Animal Protection (Tierschutzpartei)
, 55,458
, 1.1
, New
, 1
, New
, -
, colspan=7 bgcolor=lightgrey,
, -
,
, align=left, Mannheimer People's Party (MVP)
, 27,491
, 0.5
, New
, 0
, New
, -
,
, align=left, Alliance for Innovation and Justice (BIG)
, 22,928
, 0.5
, New
, 0
, New
, -
, bgcolor=,
, align=left, National Democratic Party (NPD)
, 13,784
, 0.3
, New
, 0
, New
, -
! colspan=2, Total
! 5,062,037
!
!
!
!
, -
! colspan=2, Total ballots
! 118,721
! 100.0
!
! 48
! ±0
, -
! colspan=2, Electorate/voter turnout
! 238,496
! 49.8
! 11.1
!
!
, -
, colspan=7, Source
City of Mannheim

United States military installations

A number of U.S. Army Europe installations were located in and near Mannheim during the Cold War. The following locations provided services to and housed the "U.S. Army Garrison Mannheim" and other units of the U.S. Army. The U.S. Army Garrison Mannheim was formally deactivated on 31 May 2011.

* Coleman Barracks and Coleman Army Airfield (Mannheim-Sandhofen): The headquarters of the American Forces Network-Europe, and Also, the location of the United States Army Corrections Facility-Europe.
* Funari Barracks (Mannheim-Käfertal), vacated in 2014.
* Spinelli Barracks (Mannheim-Feudenheim), vacated in 2015, the home of the Army's 28th Transportation Battalion.
* Sullivan Barracks (Mannheim-Käfertal): formerly the headquarters of the U.S. Army's 7th Signal Brigade and the 529th Military Police Honor Guard Company's 2nd Platoon; vacated in 2014.
* Taylor Barracks (Mannheim-Vogelstang): formerly the headquarters of the U.S. Army's 2nd Signal Brigade; vacated in 2011.
* Turley Barracks (Mannheim-Käfertal): in the early 1990s was home to the 181st Transportation Bn, with companies of 40th, 41st, 51st, 590th, TTP, and HHC transportation companies and also the headquarters of the NATO ACE Mobile Force (Land) (AMFL).
* The Benjamin Franklin Village (Mannheim-Käfertal), housing. Also, it was the home of the Mannheim American High School and the Middle School, which closed on 9 June 2011. The last soldier and his family moved out in 2012.

The following locations were part of the "U.S. Army Garrison Heidelberg" but were within the area of the city of Mannheim; They were vacated in 2010 and 2011:
* Friedrichsfeld Service Center (Mannheim-Friedrichsfeld)
* Hammonds Barracks (formerly Loretto Kaserne) (Mannheim-Seckenheim)
* Stem Kaserne (Mannheim-Seckenheim)

All personnel of the U.S. Army military community left Mannheim by 2015, some of them moving to Wiesbaden. With the exception of four barracks, all other barracks formerly occupied by the U.S. military had been returned to the German state for conversion to civilian use in 2011.

Main sights

* Fernmeldeturm Mannheim – 217.8-metre-high telecommunication tower, landmark of Mannheim
* – post World War II synagogue
* Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque

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