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The architecture of
Fez Fez most often refers to: * Fez (hat), a type of felt hat commonly worn in the Ottoman Empire * Fez, Morocco (or Fes), the second largest city of Morocco Fez or FEZ may also refer to: Media * ''Fez'' (Frank Stella), a 1964 painting by the moder ...
,
Morocco Morocco (),, ) officially the Kingdom of Morocco, is the westernmost country in the Maghreb region of North Africa. It overlooks the Mediterranean Sea to the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the west, and has land borders with Algeria to ...
, reflects the wider trends of
Moroccan architecture Moroccan architecture refers to the architecture characteristic of Morocco throughout its history and up to modern times. The country's diverse geography and long history, marked by successive waves of settlers through both migration and military ...
dating from the city's foundation in the late 8th century and up to modern times. The old city (
medina Medina,, ', "the radiant city"; or , ', (), "the city" officially Al Madinah Al Munawwarah (, , Turkish: Medine-i Münevvere) and also commonly simplified as Madīnah or Madinah (, ), is the Holiest sites in Islam, second-holiest city in Islam, ...
) of Fes, consisting of Fes el-Bali and Fes el-Jdid, is notable for being an exceptionally well-preserved medieval North African city and is classified as a
UNESCO The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization is a specialized agency of the United Nations (UN) aimed at promoting world peace and security through international cooperation in education, arts, sciences and culture. It ...
World Heritage Site A World Heritage Site is a landmark or area with legal protection by an international convention administered by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). World Heritage Sites are designated by UNESCO for h ...
. A large number of historic monuments from different periods still exist in it today, including
mosque A mosque (; from ar, مَسْجِد, masjid, ; literally "place of ritual prostration"), also called masjid, is a place of prayer for Muslims. Mosques are usually covered buildings, but can be any place where prayers ( sujud) are performed, ...
s,
madrasa Madrasa (, also , ; Arabic: مدرسة , pl. , ) is the Arabic word for any type of educational institution, secular or religious (of any religion), whether for elementary instruction or higher learning. The word is variously transliterated '' ...
s,
synagogue A synagogue, ', 'house of assembly', or ', "house of prayer"; Yiddish: ''shul'', Ladino: or ' (from synagogue); or ', "community". sometimes referred to as shul, and interchangeably used with the word temple, is a Jewish house of worshi ...
s, hammams (bathhouses),
souqs A bazaar () or souk (; also transliterated as souq) is a marketplace consisting of multiple small stalls or shops, especially in the Middle East, the Balkans, North Africa and India. However, temporary open markets elsewhere, such as in the W ...
(markets), funduqs (caravanserais),
defensive walls A defensive wall is a fortification usually used to protect a city, town or other settlement from potential aggressors. The walls can range from simple palisades or earthworks to extensive military fortifications with towers, bastions and gates ...
, city gates,
historic houses History (derived ) is the systematic study and the documentation of the human activity. The time period of event before the invention of writing systems is considered prehistory. "History" is an umbrella term comprising past events as well ...
, and palaces.


History


Early history (9th-10th centuries)

The city was founded on a bank of the
Oued Fes The Oued Fes () or Fez River is a river in Morocco. It is a tributary of the Sebou River and historically the main source of water for the city of Fes, after which it is named. The river consists of a number of different streams which originate i ...
(Fez River) by
Idris I Idris (I) ibn Abd Allah ( ar, إدريس بن عبد الله, translit=Idrīs ibn ʿAbd Allāh), also known as Idris the Elder ( ar, إدريس الأكبر, translit=Idrīs al-Akbar), (d. 791) was an Arab Hasanid Sharif and the founder of the ...
in 789, founder of the
Idrisid dynasty The Idrisid dynasty or Idrisids ( ar, الأدارسة ') were an Arab Muslim dynasty from 788 to 974, ruling most of present-day Morocco and parts of present-day western Algeria. Named after the founder, Idris I, the Idrisids were an Alid an ...
. His son,
Idris II Idris bin Idris ( ar, إدريس بن إدريس) known as Idris II ( ar, إدريس الثاني) (August 791 – August 828), was the son of Idris I, the founder of the Idrisid dynasty in Morocco. He was born in Walīlī two months after the de ...
(808),"Fes". ''Encyclopædia Britannica''. 2007. Britannica Concise Encyclopedia. 3 Mar. 2007 built a settlement on the opposing river bank in 809 and moved his capital here from Walili (Volubilis). These settlements would soon develop into two walled and largely autonomous sites, often in conflict with one another: ''Madinat Fas'' and ''Al-'Aliya''. The early population was composed mostly of
Berbers , image = File:Berber_flag.svg , caption = The Berber ethnic flag , population = 36 million , region1 = Morocco , pop1 = 14 million to 18 million , region2 = Algeria , pop2 ...
, along with hundreds of
Arab The Arabs (singular: Arab; singular ar, عَرَبِيٌّ, DIN 31635: , , plural ar, عَرَب, DIN 31635: , Arabic pronunciation: ), also known as the Arab people, are an ethnic group mainly inhabiting the Arab world in Western Asia, ...
warriors from
Kairouan Kairouan (, ), also spelled El Qayrawān or Kairwan ( ar, ٱلْقَيْرَوَان, al-Qayrawān , aeb, script=Latn, Qeirwān ), is the capital of the Kairouan Governorate in Tunisia and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city was founded by th ...
who made up Idris II's entourage. The first mosques of the city were the Mosque of the Sharifs (or Shurafa Mosque) and the Mosque of the Sheikhs (or al-Anouar Mosque); however, they no longer exist in their original form. The Mosque of the Sharifs became the burial site of Idris II upon his death and later evolved into the
Zawiya of Moulay Idris II The Zawiya of Moulay Idris II is a '' zawiya'' (an Islamic shrine and religious complex, also spelled ''zaouia'') in Fez, Morocco. It contains the tomb of Idris II (or Moulay Idris II when including his sharifian title), who ruled Morocco from 8 ...
that exists today, while the al-Anouar Mosque has left only minor remnants. Arab emigration to Fez increased afterwards, including Andalusi families of mixed Arab and Iberian descent who were expelled from Córdoba in 817–818 after a rebellion against the
Al-Hakam I Abu al-As al-Hakam ibn Hisham ibn Abd al-Rahman () was Umayyad Emir of Cordoba from 796 until 822 in Al-Andalus ( Moorish Iberia). Biography Al-Hakam was the second son of his father, his older brother having died at an early age. When he came ...
, as well as Arab families banned from
Kairouan Kairouan (, ), also spelled El Qayrawān or Kairwan ( ar, ٱلْقَيْرَوَان, al-Qayrawān , aeb, script=Latn, Qeirwān ), is the capital of the Kairouan Governorate in Tunisia and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city was founded by th ...
(modern
Tunisia ) , image_map = Tunisia location (orthographic projection).svg , map_caption = Location of Tunisia in northern Africa , image_map2 = , capital = Tunis , largest_city = capital , ...
) after another rebellion in 824. These immigrants gave the city its Arabic character. The Andalusians settled mostly in Madinat Fas, while the Tunisians found their home in Al-'Aliya. These two waves of immigrants would subsequently give their name to the sites 'Adwat Al-Andalus and 'Adwat al-Qarawiyyin. Both the
Qarawiyyin Mosque The University of al-Qarawiyyin ( ar, جامعة القرويين; ber, ⵜⴰⵙⴷⴰⵡⵉⵜ ⵏ ⵍⵇⴰⵕⴰⵡⵉⵢⵉⵏ; french: Université Al Quaraouiyine), also written Al-Karaouine or Al Quaraouiyine, is a university located in ...
and the Andalusiyyin Mosque are believed to have been founded around this period, in 859. The decline of the Idrisid dynasty afterward resulted in Fez changing hands between various empires and local factions in the 10th century. The earliest surviving Islamic-era monuments in Fez, the al-Qarawiyyin and Andalusi mosques, were built in the
hypostyle In architecture, a hypostyle () hall has a roof which is supported by columns. Etymology The term ''hypostyle'' comes from the ancient Greek ὑπόστυλος ''hypóstȳlos'' meaning "under columns" (where ὑπό ''hypó'' means below or un ...
form and made early use of the horseshoe or "Moorish" arch. These reflected influences from major early monuments like the
Great Mosque of Kairouan The Great Mosque of Kairouan ( ar, جامع القيروان الأكبر), also known as the Mosque of Uqba (), is a mosque situated in the UNESCO World Heritage town of Kairouan, Tunisia and is one of the most impressive and largest Islamic mo ...
and the
Great Mosque of Cordoba Great may refer to: Descriptions or measurements * Great, a relative measurement in physical space, see Size * Greatness, being divine, majestic, superior, majestic, or transcendent People * List of people known as "the Great" *Artel Great (born ...
. In the 10th century much of northern Morocco, including Fez, came directly within the sphere of influence of the Umayyad Caliphate of Cordoba, with competition from the
Fatimid Caliphate The Fatimid Caliphate was an Isma'ilism, Ismaili Shia Islam, Shi'a caliphate extant from the tenth to the twelfth centuries AD. Spanning a large area of North Africa, it ranged from the Atlantic Ocean in the west to the Red Sea in the ea ...
further east. Early contributions to Moroccan architecture from this period include expansions to the Qarawiyyin and Andalusi mosques and the addition of their square-shafted
minaret A minaret (; ar, منارة, translit=manāra, or ar, مِئْذَنة, translit=miʾḏana, links=no; tr, minare; fa, گل‌دسته, translit=goldaste) is a type of tower typically built into or adjacent to mosques. Minarets are generall ...
s, anticipating the later standard form of Moroccan minarets.


Almoravid and Almohad era (11th-13th centuries)

The rise of the
Almoravids The Almoravid dynasty ( ar, المرابطون, translit=Al-Murābiṭūn, lit=those from the ribats) was an imperial Berber Muslim dynasty centered in the territory of present-day Morocco. It established an empire in the 11th century that ...
in the 11th century brought about the foundation of a new capital at
Marrakesh Marrakesh or Marrakech ( or ; ar, مراكش, murrākuš, ; ber, ⵎⵕⵕⴰⴽⵛ, translit=mṛṛakc}) is the fourth largest city in the Kingdom of Morocco. It is one of the four Imperial cities of Morocco and is the capital of the Marrakes ...
to the south, and the
Almohads The Almohad Caliphate (; ar, خِلَافَةُ ٱلْمُوَحِّدِينَ or or from ar, ٱلْمُوَحِّدُونَ, translit=al-Muwaḥḥidūn, lit=those who profess the unity of God) was a North African Berber Muslim empire fo ...
after them also kept Marrakesh as their center of power. Nonetheless, Fes remained the second city of their empires. The city's merchant economic activity and its intellectual influence continued to grow. The Almoravids unified the two cities of Madinat Fas and Al-Aliya for the first time into one large city with a single set of walls. They also expanded the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque, which functioned as a religious centre and also educational institution. When the
Almohad The Almohad Caliphate (; ar, خِلَافَةُ ٱلْمُوَحِّدِينَ or or from ar, ٱلْمُوَحِّدُونَ, translit=al-Muwaḥḥidūn, lit=those who profess the Tawhid, unity of God) was a North African Berbers, Berber M ...
leader
Abd al-Mu'min Abd al Mu'min (c. 1094–1163) ( ar, عبد المؤمن بن علي or عبد المومن الــكـومي; full name: ʿAbd al-Muʾmin ibn ʿAlī ibn ʿAlwī ibn Yaʿlā al-Kūmī Abū Muḥammad) was a prominent member of the Almohad move ...
besieged and conquered the city in 1145, he demolished the city's fortifications as punishment for its resistance. However, due to Fes's continuing economic and military importance, the Almohad
caliph A caliphate or khilāfah ( ar, خِلَافَة, ) is an institution or public office under the leadership of an Islamic steward with the title of caliph (; ar, خَلِيفَة , ), a person considered a political-religious successor to th ...
Ya'qub al-Mansur Abū Yūsuf Yaʿqūb ibn Yūsuf ibn Abd al-Muʾmin al-Manṣūr (; c. 1160 – 23 January 1199 Marrakesh), commonly known as Yaqub al-Mansur () or Moulay Yacoub (), was the third Almohad Caliph. Succeeding his father, al-Mansur reigned from 118 ...
ordered the reconstruction of the ramparts. The walls were completed by his successor
Muhammad al-Nasir Muhammad al-Nasir (,'' al-Nāṣir li-dīn Allāh Muḥammad ibn al-Manṣūr'', – 1213) was the fourth Almohad Caliph from 1199 until his death.Évariste Lévi-Provençalal-Nāṣir Encyclopaedia of Islam, Second Edition. Brill Online, 2013. ...
in 1204, giving them their definitive shape and establishing the perimeter of Fes el-Bali to this day. The Almoravid-Almohad period is considered one of the most formative stages of Moroccan and Moorish architecture, establishing many of the forms and motifs that were refined in subsequent centuries. The Almoravids adopted the architectural developments of al-Andalus, such as the complex interlacing arches of the Great Mosque in Cordoba and of the Aljaferia palace in
Zaragoza Zaragoza, also known in English as Saragossa,''Encyclopædia Britannica'"Zaragoza (conventional Saragossa)" is the capital city of the Zaragoza Province and of the autonomous community of Aragon, Spain. It lies by the Ebro river and its tributari ...
, while also introducing new ornamental techniques from the east such as ''
muqarnas Muqarnas ( ar, مقرنص; fa, مقرنس), also known in Iranian architecture as Ahoopāy ( fa, آهوپای) and in Iberian architecture as Mocárabe, is a form of ornamented vaulting in Islamic architecture. It is the archetypal form of I ...
'' ("stalactite" or "honeycomb" carvings). Outside of Fes, the Almohad Kutubiyya and
Tinmal Tinmel ( Berber: Tin Mel or Tin Mal, ar, تينمل) is a small mountain village in the High Atlas 100 km from Marrakesh, Morocco. Tinmel was the cradle of the Berber Almohad empire, from where the Almohads started their military campaign ...
mosques are often considered the prototypes of later Moroccan mosques. Likewise, the monumental minarets (e.g. the Kutubiyya minaret, the
Giralda The Giralda ( es, La Giralda ) is the bell tower of Seville Cathedral in Seville, Spain. It was built as the minaret for the Great Mosque of Seville in al-Andalus, Moorish Spain, during the reign of the Almohad dynasty, with a Renaissance-style ...
of
Seville Seville (; es, Sevilla, ) is the capital and largest city of the Spanish autonomous community of Andalusia and the province of Seville. It is situated on the lower reaches of the River Guadalquivir, in the southwest of the Iberian Peninsula ...
, and the
Hassan Tower Hassan Tower or Tour Hassan ( ar, صومعة حسان; ) is the minaret of an incomplete mosque in Rabat, Morocco. It was commissioned by Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansur, the third Caliph of the Almohad Caliphate, near the end of the 12th century. The ...
of Rabat) and ornamental gateways (e.g.
Bab Agnaou Bab Agnaou (; ; sometimes transliterated as Bab Agnaw) is one of the best-known gates of Marrakesh, Morocco. Its construction is attributed to the Almohad caliph Abu Yusuf Ya'qub al-Mansur and was completed around 1188 or 1190. The gate was the ma ...
in Marrakesh, and
Bab Oudaia Bab Oudaya (also spelled Bab Oudaia or Bab Udaya; ), also known as Bab Lakbir or Bab al-Kabir (), is the monumental gate of the Kasbah of the Udayas in Rabat, Morocco. The gate, built in the late 12th century, is located at the northwest corner o ...
and
Bab er-Rouah Bab er-Rouah (also spelled Bab er-Ruwah or Bab Rouah) is a monumental gate in the Almohad-era ramparts of Rabat, Morocco. History It was built by the Almohad caliph Ya'qub al-Mansur in the late 12th century, as part of the monumental capital h ...
in Rabat) of the Almohad period also established the overall decorative schemes that became recurrent in these architectural elements thenceforth. The minaret of the Kasbah Mosque of Marrakech was particularly influential and set a style that was repeated, with minor elaborations, in the following Marinid period.


Marinid period and golden age (13th-15th centuries)

Fez regained its political status and became recognised as the capital during the
Marinid dynasty The Marinid Sultanate was a Berber Muslim empire from the mid-13th to the 15th century which controlled present-day Morocco and, intermittently, other parts of North Africa (Algeria and Tunisia) and of the southern Iberian Peninsula (Spain) a ...
between the 13th and 15th century. In 1276 the Marinid sultan Abu Yusuf Ya'qub built an entirely new administrative city or royal citadel to the west of the old city, on higher ground overlooking it. This became known as Fes el-Jdid ("New Fes"), and included the royal palace of the sultans ( ''Dar al-Makhzen''), the administrative offices of the state, and the headquarters of the army. Fes el-Jdid had its own set of fortified walls and gates. Most of its outer perimeter was protected by a set of double walls; a tall inner wall with heavy square towers at regular intervals and a smaller outer wall with minor towers. Its northern entrance, at the beginning of the road to Meknes, consisted of a fortified bridge (now the Old Mechouar) over the Oued Fes. Inside, the city was further subdivided into different districts, some of which, including the Dar al-Makhzen, had walls and gates separating them from the others. Another district, initially known as ''Hims'' and later converted into the Jewish ''
Mellah A ''mellah'' ( or 'saline area'; and he, מלאח) is a Jewish quarter of a city in Morocco. Starting in the 15th century and especially since the beginning of the 19th century, Jewish communities in Morocco were constrained to live in ''mellah'' ...
'', was also added to the south. In 1287 Sultan
Abu Ya'qub Yusuf Abu Ya`qub Yusuf or Yusuf I ( ''Abū Ya‘qūb Yūsuf''; 1135 – 14 October 1184) was the second Almohad Caliphate, Almohad ''Amir'' or caliph. He reigned from 1163 until 1184 in Marrakesh. He was responsible for the construction of the Girald ...
(son of Abu Yusuf Ya'qub) created a vast pleasure garden, known as El-Mosara, to the north, just outside the city but encompassed by its own protective wall. The gardens were watered via an aqueduct which drew water from the Oued Fes through an enormous ''
noria A noria ( ar, ناعورة, ''nā‘ūra'', plural ''nawāʿīr'', from syr, ܢܥܘܪܐ, ''nā‘orā'', lit. "growler") is a hydropowered ''scoop wheel'' used to lift water into a small aqueduct (water supply), aqueduct, either for the purpos ...
'' or
water wheel A water wheel is a machine for converting the energy of flowing or falling water into useful forms of power, often in a watermill. A water wheel consists of a wheel (usually constructed from wood or metal), with a number of blades or buckets ...
, approximately 26 meters in diameter, which was located on the west side of
Bab Dekkakin Bab Dekkakin or Bab Dekakene () is a fortified and ceremonial gate in Fes, Morocco. The gate is situated between the Old Mechouar (or ''Vieux Méchouar'') and the New Mechouar (or ''Nouveau Méchouar'') on the northern edge of Fes el-Jdid. ...
. Although the gardens and the water wheel have since disappeared, traces of the former aqueduct are visible in the western wall of the New Mechouar today and also in the large octagonal towers of
Bab Segma Bab Segma () was a former Marinid Sultanate, Marinid Gates of Fez, gate in Fez, Morocco, Fes, Morocco. It was located north of Fes Jdid, Fes el-Jdid and was built in 1286 as a part of the Mosara Garden, Marinid royal gardens located there. The to ...
, one of the former gates to the garden. The Marinids were also important in further refining the artistic legacy established by their predecessors. They built monuments with increasingly intricate and extensive decoration, particularly in wood and
stucco Stucco or render is a construction material made of aggregates, a binder, and water. Stucco is applied wet and hardens to a very dense solid. It is used as a decorative coating for walls and ceilings, exterior walls, and as a sculptural and a ...
. They were also the first to deploy extensive use of ''
zellij ''Zellij'' ( ar, الزليج, translit=zillīj; also spelled zillij or zellige) is a style of mosaic tilework made from individually hand-chiseled tile pieces. The pieces were typically of different colours and fitted together to form various pa ...
'' (mosaic tilework in complex
geometric patterns A pattern is a regularity in the world, in human-made design, or in abstract ideas. As such, the elements of a pattern repeat in a predictable manner. A geometric pattern is a kind of pattern formed of geometric shapes and typically repeated l ...
). Notably, they were the first to build
madrasa Madrasa (, also , ; Arabic: مدرسة , pl. , ) is the Arabic word for any type of educational institution, secular or religious (of any religion), whether for elementary instruction or higher learning. The word is variously transliterated '' ...
s, a type of institution which originated in
Iran Iran, officially the Islamic Republic of Iran, and also called Persia, is a country located in Western Asia. It is bordered by Iraq and Turkey to the west, by Azerbaijan and Armenia to the northwest, by the Caspian Sea and Turkmeni ...
and had spread west. The madrasas of Fes, such as the Bou Inania, al-Attarine, and as-Sahrij madrasas, are considered among the greatest architectural works of this period.Kubisch, Natascha (2011). "Maghreb - Architecture" in Hattstein, Markus and Delius, Peter (eds.) ''Islam: Art and Architecture''. h.f.ullmann. While mosque architecture largely followed the Almohad model, one noted change was the progressive increase in the size of the ''
sahn A ''sahn'' ( ar, صَحْن, '), is a courtyard in Islamic architecture, especially the formal courtyard of a mosque. Most traditional mosques have a large central ''sahn'', which is surrounded by a ''Riwaq (arcade), riwaq'' or arcade (architect ...
'' or courtyard, which was previously a minor element of the floor plan but which eventually, in the subsequent
Saadian The Saadi Sultanate (also rendered in English as Sa'di, Sa'did, Sa'dian, or Saadian; ar, السعديون, translit=as-saʿdiyyūn) was a state which ruled present-day Morocco and parts of West Africa in the 16th and 17th centuries. It was l ...
period, became as large as the main prayer hall, and sometimes larger. The architectural style under the Marinids was also very closely related to that found in the
Emirate of Granada The Emirate of Granada ( ar, إمارة غرﻧﺎﻃﺔ, Imārat Ġarnāṭah), also known as the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada ( es, Reino Nazarí de Granada), was an Emirate, Islamic realm in southern Iberia during the Late Middle Ages. It was the ...
, in Spain, under the contemporary
Nasrid dynasty The Nasrid dynasty ( ar, بنو نصر ''banū Naṣr'' or ''banū al-Aḥmar''; Spanish: ''Nazarí'') was the last Muslim dynasty in the Iberian Peninsula, ruling the Emirate of Granada from 1230 until 1492. Its members claimed to be of Arab ...
. The decoration of the famous
Alhambra The Alhambra (, ; ar, الْحَمْرَاء, Al-Ḥamrāʾ, , ) is a palace and fortress complex located in Granada, Andalusia, Spain. It is one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture and one of the best-preserved palaces of the ...
is thus reminiscent of what was built in Fes at the same time. When
Granada Granada (,, DIN 31635, DIN: ; grc, Ἐλιβύργη, Elibýrgē; la, Illiberis or . ) is the capital city of the province of Granada, in the autonomous communities of Spain, autonomous community of Andalusia, Spain. Granada is located at the fo ...
was conquered in 1492 by Catholic Spain and the last Muslim realm of al-Andalus came to an end, many of the remaining
Spanish Muslims Spain is a Christian majority country, with Islam being a minority religion, practised mostly by the immigrants and their descendants from Muslim majority countries. Due to the secular nature of the Spanish constitution, Muslims are free to ...
(and
Jews Jews ( he, יְהוּדִים, , ) or Jewish people are an ethnoreligious group and nation originating from the Israelites Israelite origins and kingdom: "The first act in the long drama of Jewish history is the age of the Israelites""The ...
) fled to Morocco and
North Africa North Africa, or Northern Africa is a region encompassing the northern portion of the African continent. There is no singularly accepted scope for the region, and it is sometimes defined as stretching from the Atlantic shores of Mauritania in ...
, resulting in another increase of Andalusian influence in Fez during subsequent generations.


Decline and development under the Saadians and Alaouites (16th-19th centuries)

After the decline of the Marinid dynasty, Fes went into a mixed era of decline and occasional prosperity under the
Saadians The Saadi Sultanate (also rendered in English as Sa'di, Sa'did, Sa'dian, or Saadian; ar, السعديون, translit=as-saʿdiyyūn) was a state which ruled present-day Morocco and parts of West Africa in the 16th and 17th centuries. It was l ...
and
Alaouites The Alawis, Alawites ( ar, علوية ''Alawīyah''), or pejoratively Nusayris ( ar, نصيرية ''Nuṣayrīyah'') are an ethnoreligious group that lives primarily in Levant and follows Alawism, a sect of Islam that originated from Shia Isl ...
. The Saadians, who used Marrakesh again as their capital, did not lavish much attention on Fes, with the exception of the ornate ablutions pavilions added to the Qarawiyyin Mosque's courtyard during their time. Perhaps as a result of persistent tensions with the city's inhabitants, the Saadians built a number of new forts and
bastion A bastion or bulwark is a structure projecting outward from the curtain wall of a fortification, most commonly angular in shape and positioned at the corners of the fort. The fully developed bastion consists of two faces and two flanks, with fi ...
s around the city which appear to have been aimed at keeping control over the local population. They were mostly located on higher ground overlooking Fes el-Bali, from which they would have been easily able to bombard the city with canons. These include the
Kasbah Tamdert Kasbah Tamdert is a fortress and kasbah in Fes, Morocco. It is located near Bab Ftouh in southern Fes el-Bali. History The kasbah was built in the 16th century on the orders of the Saadian sultan Muhammad al-Shaykh in 1549. The Saadians, who ...
, just inside the city walls near
Bab Ftouh Bab Ftouh (also spelled Bab Fetouh) is the main southeastern gate of Fes el-Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. History The name ''Bab (al-)Ftouh'' means literally "Gate of the Opening", but historically this name (also used for Bab ...
, and the forts of
Borj Nord Borj Nord or Burj al-Shamal (), Al-Burj ash-Shamali () is a fort in the city of Fez, Morocco. It was first established in 1582 by the Saadi dynasty, modeled after the Portuguese forts in the 16th century. It is among the largest defense structur ...
(''Borj al-Shamali'') on the hills to the north,
Borj Sud Borj Sud () is a fort in the city of Fez, Morocco. It was first established around 1582 by the Saadian dynasty, likely modeled after Portuguese forts of the time. It is located on the hills overlooking the old city ( Fes el-Bali) from the south, a ...
(''Borj al-Janoub'') on the hills to the south, and the Borj Sheikh Ahmed to the west, at a point in Fes el-Jdid's walls that was closest to Fes el-Bali. These were built in the late 16th century, mostly by Sultan
Ahmad al-Mansur Ahmad al-Mansur ( ar, أبو العباس أحمد المنصور, Ahmad Abu al-Abbas al-Mansur, also al-Mansur al-Dahabbi (the Golden), ar, أحمد المنصور الذهبي; and Ahmed al-Mansour; 1549 in Fes – 25 August 1603, Fes) was the ...
. Two other bastions, Borj Twil and Borj Sidi Bou Nafa', were also built along Fes el-Jdid's walls south of Borj Sheikh Ahmed. The Borj Nord, Borj Sud, and these bastions (sometimes referred to as the ''bastioun'' in
Arabic Arabic (, ' ; , ' or ) is a Semitic languages, Semitic language spoken primarily across the Arab world.Semitic languages: an international handbook / edited by Stefan Weninger; in collaboration with Geoffrey Khan, Michael P. Streck, Janet C ...
) of Fes el-Jdid are the only fortifications in Fes to demonstrate clear
Europe Europe is a large peninsula conventionally considered a continent in its own right because of its great physical size and the weight of its history and traditions. Europe is also considered a Continent#Subcontinents, subcontinent of Eurasia ...
an (most likely
Portuguese Portuguese may refer to: * anything of, from, or related to the country and nation of Portugal ** Portuguese cuisine, traditional foods ** Portuguese language, a Romance language *** Portuguese dialects, variants of the Portuguese language ** Portu ...
) influence in their design, updated to serve as defenses in the
age of gunpowder Early modern warfare is the era of warfare following medieval warfare. It is associated with the start of the widespread use of gunpowder and the development of suitable weapons to use the explosive, including artillery and firearms; for this ...
. Some of them may have been built with the help of Christian European prisoners of war from the Saadians' victory over Portuguese at the
Battle of the Three Kings A battle is an occurrence of combat in warfare between opposing military units of any number or size. A war usually consists of multiple battles. In general, a battle is a military engagement that is well defined in duration, area, and force ...
in 1578. The founder of the
Alaouite dynasty The Alawi dynasty ( ar, سلالة العلويين الفيلاليين, translit=sulālat al-ʿalawiyyīn al-fīlāliyyīn) – also rendered in English as Alaouite, Alawid, or Alawite – is the current Morocco, Moroccan royal family and re ...
, Moulay Rashid, took Fes in 1666 and made it his capital. He set about restoring the city after a long period of neglect. He built the
Kasbah Cherarda Kasbah Cherarda () is a kasbah in the city of Fez, Morocco, located on the northern outskirts of Fes el-Jdid. It was initially referred to as Kasbah el-Khemis, the "Thursday Fort" ( ar, قصبة الخمس) as there was an open market held every ...
(also known as the Kasbah al-Khemis) to the north of Fes el-Jdid and of the Royal Palace in order to house a large part of his tribal troops. He also restored or rebuilt what became known as the
Kasbah an-Nouar The Kasbah An-Nouar or Kasbah Filali is a walled district and former military enclosure in the old medina of Fez, Morocco. Its name means "citadel of the flowers", but it is sometimes also referred to as Kasbah Filala and Kasbah Chorfa. It is one o ...
, which became the living quarters of his followers from the
Tafilalt Tafilalt or Tafilet (; ar, تافيلالت), historically Sijilmasa, is a region and the largest oasis in Morocco. Etymology The word "Tafilalt" is an Amazigh word and it means "Jug", which is specifically a pottery jar used to store water. H ...
region (the Alaouite dynasty's ancestral home). For this reason, the kasbah was also known as the Kasbah Filala ("Kasbah of the people from Tafilalt"). After Moulay Rashid's death Fes underwent another dark period. His successor, Moulay Isma'il, moved the capital to Meknes, though he did sponsor some major construction projects in Fez. Notably, he completely rebuilt the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II between 1717 and 1720, giving the building most of its present form. From the reign of Moulay Muhammad ibn Abdallah onward Fez regained its power and prestige. The Alaouites continued to rebuild or restore various monuments, as well as to expand the grounds of the Royal Palace a number of times. The final and most significant change to Fes's topography was made during the reign of Moulay Hasan I (1873-1894), who finally connected Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali by building a walled corridor between them. Within this new corridor, between the two cities, were built new gardens and summer palaces used by the royals and the capital's high society, such as the
Jnan Sbil Gardens The Jnan Sbil Gardens (; also spelled Jnane Sbile from the French transliteration), also known as the Bou Jeloud Gardens, is public garden in Fez, Morocco, located between Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali, the two sections of the old medina. Hist ...
and the
Dar Batha Dar Batḥa ( ar, دار البطحاء, pronounced ''Bat-ḥaa''), or Qasr al-Batḥa ( ar, قصر البطحاء), is a former royal palace in the city of Fez, Morocco. The palace was commissioned by the Alaouite Sultan Hassan I in the late 19th ...
palace. Moulay Hassan also expanded the old Royal Palace itself, extending its entrance up to the current location of the Old Mechouar while adding the New Mechouar, along with the
Dar al-Makina The Dar al-Makina () is a former arms factory in Fes, Morocco. History The Dar al-Makina (an Arabic adaptation of the word "machine") was established by Sultan Moulay Hassan in 1885–86 with the help of Italian officers. The northern gate of t ...
, to the north. This had the consequence of also splitting the Moulay Abdallah neighbourhood to the northwest from the rest of Fes el-Jdid.


French colonial period and present-day (20th-21st centuries)

In 1912 the
Treaty of Fez The Treaty of Fes ( ar, معاهدة فاس, ), officially the Treaty Concluded Between France and Morocco on 30 March 1912, for the Organization of the French Protectorate in the Sherifien Empire (), was a treaty signed by Sultan Abd al-Hafid ...
was signed and Morocco became a French Protectorate, while Spain controlled the north of Morocco. The capital was moved again, this time to
Rabat Rabat (, also , ; ar, الرِّبَاط, er-Ribât; ber, ⵕⵕⴱⴰⵟ, ṛṛbaṭ) is the capital city of Morocco and the country's seventh largest city with an urban population of approximately 580,000 (2014) and a metropolitan populati ...
, which remains the capital to this day. Morocco regained independence from France and Spain in 1956. Under the Protectorate administration, French resident general
Hubert Lyautey Louis Hubert Gonzalve Lyautey (17 November 1854 – 27 July 1934) was a French Army general and colonial administrator. After serving in Indochina and Madagascar, he became the first French Resident-General in Morocco from 1912 to 1925. Early in ...
appointed
Henri Prost Henri Prost (February 25, 1874 – July 16, 1959) was a French architect and urban planner. He was noted in particularly for his work in Morocco and Turkey, where he created a number of comprehensive city plans for Casablanca, Fes, Marrakesh ...
to oversee the urban development of cities. One important policy with long-term consequences was the decision to largely forego redevelopment of existing historic cities and to deliberately preserve them as sites of historic heritage, still known today as the " medinas". Instead, the French administration built new modern cities (the '' Villes Nouvelles'' or "New Cities") just outside the old cities, where European settlers largely resided with modern Western-style amenities. New building regulations maintained the country's pre-existing architectural features and balanced it with the rapid urbanization. Nonetheless, while this policy preserved historic monuments, it had other consequences in the long-term by stalling urban development in these heritage areas and causing housing shortages in some areas. It also suppressed local Moroccan architectural innovations, as for example in the
medina of Fez Fes el Bali ( ar, فاس البالي, lit=Old Fes, ber, ⴼⴰⵙ ⴰⵇⴷⵉⵎ) is the oldest walled part of Fez, Morocco. Fes el Bali was founded as the capital of the Idrisid dynasty between 789 and 808 AD. UNESCO listed Fes el Bali, along ...
where Moroccan residents where required to keep their houses – including any newly built houses – in conformity with what the French administration deemed to be the historic indigenous architecture. In some cases French officials removed or remodelled more recent pre-colonial Moroccan structures which had been visibly influenced by European styles in order to erase what they deemed as foreign or non-indigenous interference in Moroccan architecture, such as the Bab Campini gate (now known as Bab Chems), which was built in an
Italianate The Italianate style was a distinct 19th-century phase in the history of Classical architecture. Like Palladianism and Neoclassicism, the Italianate style drew its inspiration from the models and architectural vocabulary of 16th-century Italian R ...
style in the 19th century but was rebuilt by the French in a "Moorish" style. In turn, French architects constructed buildings in the new cities that conformed to modern European functions and layouts but whose appearance was heavily blended with local Moroccan decorative motifs, resulting in a ''Mauresque'' or
Neo-Moorish Moorish Revival or Neo-Moorish is one of the exotic revival architectural styles that were adopted by architects of Europe and the Americas in the wake of Romanticist Orientalism. It reached the height of its popularity after the mid-19th centur ...
-style architecture. In some cases, the French also inserted Moroccan-looking structures in the fabric of the old cities, such as the
Bab Bou Jeloud Bab Bou Jeloud (also spelled Bab Boujeloud or Bab Boujloud) is an ornate city gate in Fes el Bali, the old city of Fez, Morocco. The current gate was built by the French colonial administration in 1913 to serve as the grand entrance to the old c ...
gate in Fes (completed in 1913) and the nearby '' Collège Moulay Idris'' (opened in 1918). In the ''Ville Nouvelle'' of Fez, both French and Moroccan proprietors constructed new buildings that followed contemporary European tastes but often included traditional Moroccan features. Lyautey and the French authorities in Morocco were reticent to allow conspicuous orientalist constructions and pastiches of local Moroccan architecture. They discouraged what they saw as excessive ''néo-mauresque'' (Neo-Moorish) styles such as those seen in the architecture of French-controlled
Algiers Algiers ( ; ar, الجزائر, al-Jazāʾir; ber, Dzayer, script=Latn; french: Alger, ) is the capital and largest city of Algeria. The city's population at the 2008 Census was 2,988,145Census 14 April 2008: Office National des Statistiques ...
. Nonetheless, some public buildings erected in the Ville Nouvelle by French authorities still made use of this style. Many apartment blocks built in the 1910s and 1920s also demonstrated this trend. The first post office building, built in 1925 by architect Edmond Pauty, included local geometric motifs in its decorative details. The state bank building (the present-day
Bank al-Maghrib The Bank Al-Maghrib ( ar, بنك المغرب, ) is the central bank of the Kingdom of Morocco. It was founded in 1959 as the successor to the State Bank of Morocco (est. 1907). In 2008 Bank Al-Maghrib held reserves of foreign currency with an e ...
branch), built between 1928 and 1931 by architect René Canu, includes a
frieze In architecture, the frieze is the wide central section part of an entablature and may be plain in the Ionic or Doric order, or decorated with bas-reliefs. Paterae are also usually used to decorate friezes. Even when neither columns nor ...
of sculpted plaster featuring an interpretation of
arabesque The arabesque is a form of artistic decoration consisting of "surface decorations based on rhythmic linear patterns of scrolling and interlacing foliage, tendrils" or plain lines, often combined with other elements. Another definition is "Foli ...
motifs. French authorities also encouraged builders to make use of local Moroccan labour and craftsmanship even if they weren't reproducing Moroccan motifs. For example, the main entrance of the building of the Court of First Instance ('' Tribunal de première instance''), built in 1934, is decorated with zellij mosaic tilework of local Moroccan craftsmanship but depicting traditional French symbols of justice. In the 1910s and 1920s many new constructions in the Ville Nouvelle were also built with Neoclassical influences. The façades of these buildings often had eclectic ornamentation in carved stucco. Their decorative motifs were of European origin, such as floral friezes, lion heads,
seashell A seashell or sea shell, also known simply as a shell, is a hard, protective outer layer usually created by an animal or organism that lives in the sea. The shell is part of the body of the animal. Empty seashells are often found washe ...
s,
cherub A cherub (; plural cherubim; he, כְּרוּב ''kərūḇ'', pl. ''kərūḇīm'', likely borrowed from a derived form of akk, 𒅗𒊏𒁍 ''karabu'' "to bless" such as ''karibu'', "one who blesses", a name for the lamassu) is one of the u ...
s, and other diverse elements. The Ville Nouvelle of Fez developed more slowly than other major cities under French rule and a very large proportion its buildings from the pre-independence period (i.e. before 1956) were constructed between 1925 and 1935. After 1925 authorities became more reluctant to allow new buildings with ostentatious decoration in the downtown areas. As a result, the architecture became more somber and restrained from this period onward. Some buildings were built in the
Art Deco Art Deco, short for the French ''Arts Décoratifs'', and sometimes just called Deco, is a style of visual arts, architecture, and product design, that first appeared in France in the 1910s (just before World War I), and flourished in the Unite ...
style. Private villas, which were built further away from the new city's main arteries and thus less visible, continued to be built in more ornate styles. Some villas from this period included salons with traditional Moroccan decoration. Today, the Medina of Fez has conserved the original functions and architecture of its urban space, leading to its inscription on the
World Heritage List A World Heritage Site is a landmark or area with legal protection by an international convention administered by the UNESCO, United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). World Heritage Sites are designated by UNES ...
in 1981. The successful survival of traditional architecture can be attributed to the commitment to continue to reflect the styles of the successive waves of inhabitants, encroaching the city over its long history.


Structure of the medina

The historic city of Fez consists of Fes el-Bali, the original city founded by the
Idrisid dynasty The Idrisid dynasty or Idrisids ( ar, الأدارسة ') were an Arab Muslim dynasty from 788 to 974, ruling most of present-day Morocco and parts of present-day western Algeria. Named after the founder, Idris I, the Idrisids were an Alid an ...
on both shores of the
Oued Fes The Oued Fes () or Fez River is a river in Morocco. It is a tributary of the Sebou River and historically the main source of water for the city of Fes, after which it is named. The river consists of a number of different streams which originate i ...
(River of Fez) in the late 8th and early 9th centuries, and the smaller Fez el-Jdid, founded on higher ground to the west in the 13th century. It is distinct from Fez's now much larger ''Ville Nouvelle'' (new city) originally founded by the
French French (french: français(e), link=no) may refer to: * Something of, from, or related to France ** French language, which originated in France, and its various dialects and accents ** French people, a nation and ethnic group identified with Franc ...
. These two historic cities are linked together and are usually referred to together as the "
medina Medina,, ', "the radiant city"; or , ', (), "the city" officially Al Madinah Al Munawwarah (, , Turkish: Medine-i Münevvere) and also commonly simplified as Madīnah or Madinah (, ), is the Holiest sites in Islam, second-holiest city in Islam, ...
" of Fez. The Medina of Fez constitutes an area of about 800 acres and is enclosed by 25 kilometres of historic walls. As in many medieval Islamic cities, the main
souk A bazaar () or souk (; also transliterated as souq) is a marketplace consisting of multiple small stalls or shops, especially in the Middle East, the Balkans, North Africa and India. However, temporary open markets elsewhere, such as in the W ...
streets of Fes typically run from the city's main gates to the area of the city's main mosque (in this case the Qarawiyyin and, to a lesser extent, the
Zawiya of Moulay Idris II The Zawiya of Moulay Idris II is a '' zawiya'' (an Islamic shrine and religious complex, also spelled ''zaouia'') in Fez, Morocco. It contains the tomb of Idris II (or Moulay Idris II when including his sharifian title), who ruled Morocco from 8 ...
, historically known as the Shurafa Mosque), which, in turn, lies at the center of the city's main commercial and economic zones. The souk streets themselves constitute the main commercial axes of the city and are home to most of its ''funduq''s (inns for merchants). As a result, merchants and foreign visitors rarely had need to wander outside these areas and most of the streets branching off them lead only to local residential lanes (often called ''derb''s), many of them leading to dead-ends. Even today, tourists are generally found only on these main commercial thoroughfares. The city's most important monuments and institutions are also located on or near its main souk streets. Accordingly, the medina has a cohesive and hierarchical urban structure that can be distinguished on two levels. At a local level, individual neighbourhoods and districts are specialized for residential, commercial, and industrial purposes. On a wider level, the city is organized in relation to major points of importance such as gates and main mosques. At this wider level, there are roughly four main centres of urban activity and organization: one around the Qarawiyin mosque, one around the Andalusiyyin Mosque, another around the Bou Inania Madrasa-Mosque, and the historically separate agglomeration of Fes el-Jdid.


Architectural style

Fez contains many important examples of traditional
Moroccan architecture Moroccan architecture refers to the architecture characteristic of Morocco throughout its history and up to modern times. The country's diverse geography and long history, marked by successive waves of settlers through both migration and military ...
. This architectural style developed during the Islamic period and was part of a wider cultural and artistic complex often referred to as "Moorish" architecture, which characterized the regions of Morocco,
al-Andalus Al-Andalus DIN 31635, translit. ; an, al-Andalus; ast, al-Ándalus; eu, al-Andalus; ber, ⴰⵏⴷⴰⵍⵓⵙ, label=Berber languages, Berber, translit=Andalus; ca, al-Àndalus; gl, al-Andalus; oc, Al Andalús; pt, al-Ândalus; es, ...
(Muslim
Spain , image_flag = Bandera de España.svg , image_coat = Escudo de España (mazonado).svg , national_motto = ''Plus ultra'' (Latin)(English: "Further Beyond") , national_anthem = (English: "Royal March") , i ...
and
Portugal Portugal, officially the Portuguese Republic ( pt, República Portuguesa, links=yes ), is a country whose mainland is located on the Iberian Peninsula of Southwestern Europe, and whose territory also includes the Atlantic archipelagos of ...
), and parts of present-day
Algeria ) , image_map = Algeria (centered orthographic projection).svg , map_caption = , image_map2 = , capital = Algiers , coordinates = , largest_city = capital , relig ...
and
Tunisia ) , image_map = Tunisia location (orthographic projection).svg , map_caption = Location of Tunisia in northern Africa , image_map2 = , capital = Tunis , largest_city = capital , ...
. It blended influences from
Berber Berber or Berbers may refer to: Ethnic group * Berbers, an ethnic group native to Northern Africa * Berber languages, a family of Afro-Asiatic languages Places * Berber, Sudan, a town on the Nile People with the surname * Ady Berber (1913–196 ...
culture in
North Africa North Africa, or Northern Africa is a region encompassing the northern portion of the African continent. There is no singularly accepted scope for the region, and it is sometimes defined as stretching from the Atlantic shores of Mauritania in ...
, pre-Islamic Spain (
Roman Roman or Romans most often refers to: *Rome, the capital city of Italy *Ancient Rome, Roman civilization from 8th century BC to 5th century AD *Roman people, the people of ancient Rome *''Epistle to the Romans'', shortened to ''Romans'', a letter ...
,
Byzantine The Byzantine Empire, also referred to as the Eastern Roman Empire or Byzantium, was the continuation of the Roman Empire primarily in its eastern provinces during Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages, when its capital city was Constantinopl ...
, and
Visigothic The Visigoths (; la, Visigothi, Wisigothi, Vesi, Visi, Wesi, Wisi) were an early Germanic people who, along with the Ostrogoths, constituted the two major political entities of the Goths within the Roman Empire in late antiquity, or what is kno ...
), and contemporary artistic currents in the Islamic
Middle East The Middle East ( ar, الشرق الأوسط, ISO 233: ) is a geopolitical region commonly encompassing Arabian Peninsula, Arabia (including the Arabian Peninsula and Bahrain), Anatolia, Asia Minor (Asian part of Turkey except Hatay Pro ...
to elaborate a unique style over centuries with recognizable features such as the "Moorish" arch, '' riad'' gardens,
hypostyle In architecture, a hypostyle () hall has a roof which is supported by columns. Etymology The term ''hypostyle'' comes from the ancient Greek ὑπόστυλος ''hypóstȳlos'' meaning "under columns" (where ὑπό ''hypó'' means below or un ...
mosques with square-shafted
minaret A minaret (; ar, منارة, translit=manāra, or ar, مِئْذَنة, translit=miʾḏana, links=no; tr, minare; fa, گل‌دسته, translit=goldaste) is a type of tower typically built into or adjacent to mosques. Minarets are generall ...
s, ''
muqarnas Muqarnas ( ar, مقرنص; fa, مقرنس), also known in Iranian architecture as Ahoopāy ( fa, آهوپای) and in Iberian architecture as Mocárabe, is a form of ornamented vaulting in Islamic architecture. It is the archetypal form of I ...
'' sculpting, and a mix of elaborate geometric, arabesque, and
calligraphic Calligraphy (from el, link=y, καλλιγραφία) is a visual art related to writing. It is the design and execution of lettering with a pen, ink brush, or other writing instrument. Contemporary calligraphic practice can be defined as ...
motifs in wood,
stucco Stucco or render is a construction material made of aggregates, a binder, and water. Stucco is applied wet and hardens to a very dense solid. It is used as a decorative coating for walls and ceilings, exterior walls, and as a sculptural and a ...
, and
tile Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally fixed in place in an array to cover roofs, floors, walls, edges, or o ...
work (notably ''
zellij ''Zellij'' ( ar, الزليج, translit=zillīj; also spelled zillij or zellige) is a style of mosaic tilework made from individually hand-chiseled tile pieces. The pieces were typically of different colours and fitted together to form various pa ...
''). File:View from a medresse in Fez, Morocco.jpg, Example of
horseshoe arch The horseshoe arch (; Spanish: "arco de herradura"), also called the Moorish arch and the keyhole arch, is an emblematic arch of Islamic architecture, especially Moorish architecture. Horseshoe arches can take rounded, pointed or lobed form. His ...
es, at the 14th-century
Bou Inania Madrasa The Madrasa Bou Inania (; ) is a madrasa in Fes, Morocco, built in 1350–55 CE by Abu Inan Faris. It is the only madrasa in Morocco which also functioned as a congregational mosque. It is widely acknowledged as a high point of Marinid architect ...
File:Bou inania DSCF2999.jpg, Example of a ''
muqarnas Muqarnas ( ar, مقرنص; fa, مقرنس), also known in Iranian architecture as Ahoopāy ( fa, آهوپای) and in Iberian architecture as Mocárabe, is a form of ornamented vaulting in Islamic architecture. It is the archetypal form of I ...
'' ceiling at the Bou Inania Madrasa File:Abu 'Inaniya.jpg, Example of geometric motifs in ''
zellij ''Zellij'' ( ar, الزليج, translit=zillīj; also spelled zillij or zellige) is a style of mosaic tilework made from individually hand-chiseled tile pieces. The pieces were typically of different colours and fitted together to form various pa ...
'' tilework (below) and
calligraphy Calligraphy (from el, link=y, καλλιγραφία) is a visual art related to writing. It is the design and execution of lettering with a pen, ink brush, or other writing instrument. Contemporary calligraphic practice can be defined as "t ...
in tile and carved
stucco Stucco or render is a construction material made of aggregates, a binder, and water. Stucco is applied wet and hardens to a very dense solid. It is used as a decorative coating for walls and ceilings, exterior walls, and as a sculptural and a ...
(above), at the Bou Inania Madrasa File:Al-attarine madrasa decoration detail DSCF3687.jpg, Example of
arabesque The arabesque is a form of artistic decoration consisting of "surface decorations based on rhythmic linear patterns of scrolling and interlacing foliage, tendrils" or plain lines, often combined with other elements. Another definition is "Foli ...
motifs in carved stucco at the 14th-century
Al-Attarine Madrasa The Al-Attarine Madrasa or Medersa al-Attarine () is a madrasa in Fes, Morocco, near the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque. It was built by the Marinid sultan Uthman II Abu Said (r. 1310-1331) in 1323-5. The madrasa takes its name from the Souk al-Attarine ...
File:Medersa Sehrij, Andalusian quarter (589017885).jpg, Example of wooden surfaces with ornate carved motifs at the 14th-century
Sahrij Madrasa Sahrij Madrasa or Madrasa al-Sahrij (sometimes also Sihrij Madrasa) () is a madrasa in Fez, Morocco. The madrasa is located inside Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter of the city. The madrasa dates back to the 14th century during the golden age of ...
File:Dar Batha DSCF2788.jpg, Example of a '' riad'' garden in the 19th-century
Dar Batha Dar Batḥa ( ar, دار البطحاء, pronounced ''Bat-ḥaa''), or Qasr al-Batḥa ( ar, قصر البطحاء), is a former royal palace in the city of Fez, Morocco. The palace was commissioned by the Alaouite Sultan Hassan I in the late 19th ...
palace File:Bou inania minaret.jpg, Example of a traditional
minaret A minaret (; ar, منارة, translit=manāra, or ar, مِئْذَنة, translit=miʾḏana, links=no; tr, minare; fa, گل‌دسته, translit=goldaste) is a type of tower typically built into or adjacent to mosques. Minarets are generall ...
, at the Bou Inania Madrasa


Types of structures


Mosques


Major historic mosques

Mosques are one of the most prominent architectural structures in Fez. The purpose of a mosque is multifaceted, as it serves as a place for worship and prayer, but at the same time it was also traditionally used as a centre for education and learning. As such, mosques are an indispensable component of the urban fabric of the Medina, as they bring the community together and act as a social, community centre and educational centre. There are numerous historic
mosque A mosque (; from ar, مَسْجِد, masjid, ; literally "place of ritual prostration"), also called masjid, is a place of prayer for Muslims. Mosques are usually covered buildings, but can be any place where prayers ( sujud) are performed, ...
s in the medina, some of which are part of a
madrasa Madrasa (, also , ; Arabic: مدرسة , pl. , ) is the Arabic word for any type of educational institution, secular or religious (of any religion), whether for elementary instruction or higher learning. The word is variously transliterated '' ...
or zawiya. Among the oldest mosques still standing today are the highly prestigious Mosque of al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 857 (and subsequently expanded), the
Mosque of the Andalusians The Mosque of the Andalusians or Al-Andalusiyyin Mosque ( ar, جامع الأندلسيين, Jama' al-Andalusiyyin; ), sometimes also called the Andalusian Mosque, is a major historic mosque in Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter of Fez, Morocco ...
founded in 859–860, the
Bou Jeloud Mosque The Bou Jeloud Mosque is a historic Almohad-era mosque in the former Kasbah of Bou Jeloud, located near Bab Bou Jeloud, in Fes, Morocco. History The mosque was founded by the Almohad caliph Abu Yusuf Yaqub (al-Mansur), who ruled between 1184 ...
from the late 12th century, and possibly the Mosque of the Kasbah en-Nouar (which may have existed in the
Almohad The Almohad Caliphate (; ar, خِلَافَةُ ٱلْمُوَحِّدِينَ or or from ar, ٱلْمُوَحِّدُونَ, translit=al-Muwaḥḥidūn, lit=those who profess the Tawhid, unity of God) was a North African Berbers, Berber M ...
period but was likely rebuilt much later). The very oldest mosques of the city, dating back to its first years, were the Mosque of the Sharifs (or Shurafa Mosque) and the Mosque of the Sheikhs (or
al-Anouar Mosque The Al-Anouar Mosque (; ), formerly also known as the Mosque of the Sheikhs (, "Mosque of the Chiefs"), was the oldest mosque in Fes, Morocco. It was founded by Idris I at the same time as he founded the city itself, in the early 9th century. It ...
); however, they no longer exist in their original form. The Mosque of the Sharifs was the burial site of
Idris II Idris bin Idris ( ar, إدريس بن إدريس) known as Idris II ( ar, إدريس الثاني) (August 791 – August 828), was the son of Idris I, the founder of the Idrisid dynasty in Morocco. He was born in Walīlī two months after the de ...
and evolved into the
Zawiya of Moulay Idris II The Zawiya of Moulay Idris II is a '' zawiya'' (an Islamic shrine and religious complex, also spelled ''zaouia'') in Fez, Morocco. It contains the tomb of Idris II (or Moulay Idris II when including his sharifian title), who ruled Morocco from 8 ...
that exists today, while the al-Anouar Mosque has left only minor remnants. The Qarawiyyin Mosque was first established as a place of worship but teaching lessons were also conducted within the mosque and it evolved to become a place for cultivating knowledge of the Islamic sciences and other sciences. Thus, it simultaneously developed into a major educational institution with scholarly status, and since 1963 it has been a state university of Morocco.Lulat, Y. G.-M.: ''A History Of African Higher Education From Antiquity To The Present: A Critical Synthesis'', Greenwood Publishing Group, 2005, , pp. 154–157Belhachmi, Zakia: "Gender, Education, and Feminist Knowledge in al-Maghrib (North Africa) – 1950–70", ''Journal of Middle Eastern and North African Intellectual and Cultural Studies, Vol. 2–3'', 2003, pp. 55–82 (65): A number of mosques date from the important
Marinid The Marinid Sultanate was a Berber Muslim empire from the mid-13th to the 15th century which controlled present-day Morocco and, intermittently, other parts of North Africa (Algeria and Tunisia) and of the southern Iberian Peninsula (Spain) a ...
era, when Fez was the capital of Morocco and Fes el-Jdid was created. These include the Great Mosque of Fez el-Jdid from 1276, the
Abu al-Hassan Mosque The Mosque of Abu al-Hasan is a historic neighbourhood mosque in Fes el Bali, Fes el-Bali, the old ''Medina quarter, medina'' of Fez, Morocco, Fes, Morocco. It is located on Tala'a Seghira street, near the Bou Inania Madrasa. History The mosque ...
from 1341, the
Chrabliyine Mosque The Chrabliyine Mosque (; also transliterated as ''Shirabliyyin, Cherabliyine,'' etc.) is a Marinid-era mosque in Fez, Morocco. History The mosque was founded in the 14th century during the Marinid period. Although the exact date and patron of ...
from 1342,Fez
''Archnet''. Retrieved January 23, 2018.
the
al-Hamra Mosque The al-Hamra Mosque or Red Mosque (, ) is a Marinid Sultanate, Marinid-era mosque in Fez, Morocco, Fes, Morocco. It is a local Jama masjid, Friday mosque located on the Grande Rue ("Great Street") of Fes Jdid, Fes el-Jdid, the palace-city founded ...
from around the same period (exact date unconfirmed), the Lalla az-Zhar Mosque from 1357, and the
Lalla Ghriba Mosque The Lalla Ghriba Mosque is one of the main neighbourhood mosques of Fes el-Jdid, a part of the historic medina of Fes, Morocco. The mosque was founded in 1408, under the reign of the Marinid sultan Abu Sa'id Uthman III. The surrounding Lalla Gh ...
from 1408. Except for the Lalla Ghriba Mosque, all of them have richly-decorated minarets, in addition to other ornamental features. The
Bab Guissa Mosque The Bab Guissa Mosque () is a medieval mosque in northern Fes el-Bali, the old city of Fez, Morocco. It is located next to the city gate of the same name, and also features an adjoining madrasa. History Based on an inscription on one of its ...
also originally dates from the reign of Marinid sultan Abu al-Hasan (1331-1351) but has been more heavily modified in later centuries. Other major mosques from the more recent Alaouite period include most notably the
Moulay Abdallah Mosque The Moulay Abdallah Mosque or Mosque of Moulay Abdallah is a major mosque and royal necropolis complex situated in the center of the Moulay Abdallah district in Fes el-Jdid, the historic palace-city and citadel in Fes, Morocco. It was founded b ...
, built in the early to mid-18th century and adjoined by a necropolis containing the tomb of Sultan
Moulay Abdallah Prince Moulay Abdallah of Morocco, KCVO, (30 July 1935 – 20 December 1983) was the brother of Moulay Hassan, later King Hassan II of Morocco and the son of King Mohammed V of Morocco (1909–1961) and his second wife, Lalla Abla bint Tahar (19 ...
and later Alaouite dynasty members. The Diwan Mosque, the
R'cif Mosque The R'cif Mosque (; also transliterated as ''R'sif'', ''Ercif'', ''er-Rsif'', or ''Rasif'') is a Jama Masjid, Friday mosque in Fes el Bali, Fes el-Bali, the old city (Medina quarter, medina) of Fez, Morocco, Fez, Morocco. It has one of the tallest ...
, and the current El-Oued Mosque were all built in the reign of Moulay Slimane (1793-1822). The Zawiya of Moulay Idris II (previously mentioned) and the
Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani The Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani, or Zawiya Tijaniya Al Koubra, () is a zawiya, an Islamic religious complex building for education and commemoration, in Fez, Morocco. The building is located inside Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter of the ci ...
include mosque areas as well, as do several other prominent zawiyas in the city. File:University karawiyine.jpg, Courtyard of the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque (founded in 9th century and expanded multiple times) File:Andalous mosque portal.jpg, Entrance of the Al-Andalusiyyin Mosque (founded in 9th century and subsequently expanded) File:Zawiya of Moulay Idriss II.jpg, The
Zawiya of Moulay Idris II The Zawiya of Moulay Idris II is a '' zawiya'' (an Islamic shrine and religious complex, also spelled ''zaouia'') in Fez, Morocco. It contains the tomb of Idris II (or Moulay Idris II when including his sharifian title), who ruled Morocco from 8 ...
, originally the site of the Shurafa Mosque founded by
Idris II Idris bin Idris ( ar, إدريس بن إدريس) known as Idris II ( ar, إدريس الثاني) (August 791 – August 828), was the son of Idris I, the founder of the Idrisid dynasty in Morocco. He was born in Walīlī two months after the de ...
(who is still buried here) File:Bou Jeloud mosque2.jpg, The
Bou Jeloud Mosque The Bou Jeloud Mosque is a historic Almohad-era mosque in the former Kasbah of Bou Jeloud, located near Bab Bou Jeloud, in Fes, Morocco. History The mosque was founded by the Almohad caliph Abu Yusuf Yaqub (al-Mansur), who ruled between 1184 ...
(founded in the late 12th century) File:Fes Jdid Grand Mosque.jpg,
Grand Mosque of Fes el-Jdid The Great Mosque of Fes el-Jdid is the historic main Friday mosque of Fes el-Jdid, the royal city and Marinid-era citadel of Fes, Morocco. It is believed to have been founded in 1276, around the same time that the city itself was founded, making ...
(founded in late 13th century) File:Abu al-Hasan mosque re-edit IMG 2302.jpg, Mosque of Abu al-Hasan (founded in 14th century) File:Fes, Morocco (5413056103) (2).jpg,
Chrabliyine Mosque The Chrabliyine Mosque (; also transliterated as ''Shirabliyyin, Cherabliyine,'' etc.) is a Marinid-era mosque in Fez, Morocco. History The mosque was founded in the 14th century during the Marinid period. Although the exact date and patron of ...
(founded in 14th century) File:Hamra mosque in Fes Jdid.jpg,
Al-Hamra Mosque The al-Hamra Mosque or Red Mosque (, ) is a Marinid Sultanate, Marinid-era mosque in Fez, Morocco, Fes, Morocco. It is a local Jama masjid, Friday mosque located on the Grande Rue ("Great Street") of Fes Jdid, Fes el-Jdid, the palace-city founded ...
(probably founded in 14th century) File:Fes - Medina6.jpg,
Bab Guissa Mosque The Bab Guissa Mosque () is a medieval mosque in northern Fes el-Bali, the old city of Fez, Morocco. It is located next to the city gate of the same name, and also features an adjoining madrasa. History Based on an inscription on one of its ...
(founded in 14th century) File:Moulay abdallah mosque minaret.jpg,
Moulay Abdallah Mosque The Moulay Abdallah Mosque or Mosque of Moulay Abdallah is a major mosque and royal necropolis complex situated in the center of the Moulay Abdallah district in Fes el-Jdid, the historic palace-city and citadel in Fes, Morocco. It was founded b ...
(18th century) File:Diwan mosque.jpg, Diwan Mosque (founded between 1792 and 1822) File:El-oued mosque 2010.jpg, El-Oued Mosque (founded between 1792 and 1822, replacing an earlier madrasa) File:29576-Fez (28211322825).jpg,
R'cif Mosque The R'cif Mosque (; also transliterated as ''R'sif'', ''Ercif'', ''er-Rsif'', or ''Rasif'') is a Jama Masjid, Friday mosque in Fes el Bali, Fes el-Bali, the old city (Medina quarter, medina) of Fez, Morocco, Fez, Morocco. It has one of the tallest ...
(founded between 1792 and 1822)


Other mosques

The old city still includes a multitude of other historic local mosques which are less well-documented. A 1932 study by Russian-French architect Boris Maslow described and illustrated some of them, but not all. Some of them nonetheless have interesting architectural details and demonstrate variations from other classic Fassi mosques. The following are some examples for which information is available: * The Mosque of Ain al-Kheil (also called the Al-Azhar Mosque), for example, has an octagonal minaret and has two prayer halls located on two levels; both features not found in typical mosques of the city. It is also reputed to have been frequented by the famous Sufi scholar
Ibn Arabi Ibn ʿArabī ( ar, ابن عربي, ; full name: , ; 1165–1240), nicknamed al-Qushayrī (, ) and Sulṭān al-ʿĀrifīn (, , 'Sultan of the Knowers'), was an Arab Andalusian Muslim scholar, mystic, poet, and philosopher, extremely influenti ...
and is therefore believed to have existed since the late 12th century (during the Almohad period). * The Al-Beida Mosque has a street fountain and a notable minaret that is prominently visible along the main street of Fes el-Jdid, just north of the Al-Hamra Mosque. Boris Maslow saw clear signs that it went through two different periods of construction, but no dates are indicated by scholars other than the assumption that it was built some time after the nearby Al-Hamra Mosque (14th century). * The Mzellja Mosque, located in the Douh neighbourhood (western Fes el-Bali), originally dates from the Marinid period and features an elegant decorative panel of square Kufic script above its street entrance. * The Derb esh-Sheikh (or Derb ech-Cheikh) Mosque, located just northeast of the
Hammam al-Mokhfiya Hammam al-Mokhfiya (also spelled Mukhfiyya or Makhfia) is a historic hammam (bathhouse) in the medina (old city) of Fes, Morocco. It is located in the neighbourhood of the same name (al-Mokhfiya), south of Place R'cif. Based on its similarities in ...
in the el-Gzira neighbourhood, has a minaret with a broad '' darj-wa-ktaf'' moftif carved in brick on its southern and eastern facades (the sides facing the street) while its northern and western facades have been left blank. The secondary lantern-tower on top of the minaret's main shaft has been rebuilt in recent times. * The Ras 'Ain Azliten Mosque, located in the 'Ain Azliten neighbourhood in northern Fes el-Bali, likely dates from the late 14th century during the Marinid period. Its minaret shares with the Derb esh-Sheikh minaret the characteristic of selective decoration: only its northern façade, facing the street, is finely decorated, while the other facades are blank. * The minaret of the Zellja Mosque, visible next to the modern Boulevard Ben Mohammed El Alaoui (the main road leading to Place R'cif), is unusually simple and has no secondary lantern-tower at all, being instead capped by a small pyramidal roof of green tiles. The ''Ville Nouvelle'' (New City) also includes many modern mosques from the 20th century or later. Some prominent landmark mosques here include the Imam Malik Mosque, the largest in the city and located near the
train station A train station, railway station, railroad station or depot is a railway facility where trains stop to load or unload passengers, freight or both. It generally consists of at least one platform, one track and a station building providing suc ...
, and the Tunis Mosque (''Masjid Tunis''), located near the downtown area. File:DSC 0746 (8189324684).jpg, The octagonal minaret of the Ain al-Kheil Mosque, seen from the street below File:Al-beida msoque.jpg, The Al-Beida Mosque in Fes el-Jdid File:PA166202fs (10465303516).jpg, Mzellja Mosque, with a decorative panel of square Kufic above its entrance (right) File:Fes minaret DSC00176 (3770357).jpg, Minaret of the Derb esh-Sheikh Mosque File:Une vue un soir à Fes.jpg, The very simple minaret (right) of the Zellja Mosque, a local neighbourhood mosque File:Fes Ville Nouvelle Masjid Tunis DSCF6328.jpg, The Tunis Mosque in the ''Ville Nouvelle'' (New City), an example of a modern mosque in the city


Synagogues

The
Mellah A ''mellah'' ( or 'saline area'; and he, מלאח) is a Jewish quarter of a city in Morocco. Starting in the 15th century and especially since the beginning of the 19th century, Jewish communities in Morocco were constrained to live in ''mellah'' ...
(Jewish quarter) of Fez Jdid is the site of the 17th-century
Ibn Danan Synagogue The Ibn Danan Synagogue ( ar, معبد ابن دنان, he, בית הכנסת אבן דאנן) is a synagogue in Fes, Morocco, dating from the 17th century. It was built by Mimoun Ben Sidan, a wealthy merchant from the town of Ait Ishaq. The syn ...
, the Slat al-Fassiyin Synagogue, and multiple other synagogues, though none of them are functioning today. Synagogues had a very different layout from mosques but often shared similar decorative trends as the rest of Moroccan architecture, such as colourful tilework and carved stucco.


Madrasas

The
madrasa Madrasa (, also , ; Arabic: مدرسة , pl. , ) is the Arabic word for any type of educational institution, secular or religious (of any religion), whether for elementary instruction or higher learning. The word is variously transliterated '' ...
was an institution which originated in northeastern
Iran Iran, officially the Islamic Republic of Iran, and also called Persia, is a country located in Western Asia. It is bordered by Iraq and Turkey to the west, by Azerbaijan and Armenia to the northwest, by the Caspian Sea and Turkmeni ...
by the early 11th century and was progressively adopted further west. These establishments provided
higher education Higher education is tertiary education leading to award of an academic degree. Higher education, also called post-secondary education, third-level or tertiary education, is an optional final stage of formal learning that occurs after completi ...
and served to train
Islamic scholars In Islam, the ''ulama'' (; ar, علماء ', singular ', "scholar", literally "the learned ones", also spelled ''ulema''; feminine: ''alimah'' ingularand ''aalimath'' lural are the guardians, transmitters, and interpreters of religious ...
, particularly in
Islamic law Sharia (; ar, شريعة, sharīʿa ) is a body of religious law that forms a part of the Islamic tradition. It is derived from the religious precepts of Islam and is based on the sacred scriptures of Islam, particularly the Quran and the ...
and jurisprudence (''
fiqh ''Fiqh'' (; ar, فقه ) is Islamic jurisprudence. Muhammad-> Companions-> Followers-> Fiqh. The commands and prohibitions chosen by God were revealed through the agency of the Prophet in both the Quran and the Sunnah (words, deeds, and ...
''). The madrasa in the
Sunni Sunni Islam () is the largest branch of Islam, followed by 85–90% of the world's Muslims. Its name comes from the word '' Sunnah'', referring to the tradition of Muhammad. The differences between Sunni and Shia Muslims arose from a disagr ...
world was generally antithetical to more "
heterodox In religion, heterodoxy (from Ancient Greek: , "other, another, different" + , "popular belief") means "any opinions or doctrines at variance with an official or orthodox position". Under this definition, heterodoxy is similar to unorthodoxy, w ...
" religious doctrines, including the doctrine espoused by the
Almohad dynasty The Almohad Caliphate (; ar, خِلَافَةُ ٱلْمُوَحِّدِينَ or or from ar, ٱلْمُوَحِّدُونَ, translit=al-Muwaḥḥidūn, lit=those who profess the unity of God) was a North African Berber Muslim empire fo ...
. As such, it only came to flourish in Morocco in the late 13th century, under the
Marinid dynasty The Marinid Sultanate was a Berber Muslim empire from the mid-13th to the 15th century which controlled present-day Morocco and, intermittently, other parts of North Africa (Algeria and Tunisia) and of the southern Iberian Peninsula (Spain) a ...
which succeeded the Almohads. To the Marinids, madrasas also played a part in bolstering the political legitimacy of their dynasty. They used this patronage to encourage the loyalty of the country's influential but independent religious elites and also to portray themselves to the general population as protectors and promoters of orthodox Sunni Islam. Finally, madrasas also played an important role in training the scholars and elites who operated the state bureaucracy. Fez has traditionally retained an influential position as a religious capital in the region, exemplified by the famous
University of al-Qarawiyyin The University of al-Qarawiyyin ( ar, جامعة القرويين; ber, ⵜⴰⵙⴷⴰⵡⵉⵜ ⵏ ⵍⵇⴰⵕⴰⵡⵉⵢⵉⵏ; french: Université Al Quaraouiyine), also written Al-Karaouine or Al Quaraouiyine, is a university located in ...
. Madrasas played a supporting role to this major institution, in part because, unlike the mosque, they provided accommodations for students who came from outside the city. Madrasas were generally centered around a main courtyard with a central fountain, off which other rooms could be accessed. Student living quarters were typically distributed on an upper floor around the courtyard. Many madrasas also included a prayer hall with a mihrab. In the Marinid era, madrasas also evolved to be lavishly decorated. However, the madrasas were also teaching institutions in their own right and offered their own courses, with some
Islamic scholars In Islam, the ''ulama'' (; ar, علماء ', singular ', "scholar", literally "the learned ones", also spelled ''ulema''; feminine: ''alimah'' ingularand ''aalimath'' lural are the guardians, transmitters, and interpreters of religious ...
making their reputation by teaching at certain madrasas. The first formal madrasa was the
Saffarin Madrasa ) , image=Place es Seffarine (588955430).jpg , caption=A part of the madrasa courtyard , location=Fez, Morocco , coordinates= , geo= , religious_affiliation=Islam , rite= , sect = Sunni , region= , province= , district= , consecration_year= , status ...
in Fes el Bali by Sultan Abu Yusuf in 1271. Sultan Abu al-Hassan was the most prolific patron of madrasa construction, completing the Al-Attarine, Mesbahiyya and
Sahrij Madrasa Sahrij Madrasa or Madrasa al-Sahrij (sometimes also Sihrij Madrasa) () is a madrasa in Fez, Morocco. The madrasa is located inside Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter of the city. The madrasa dates back to the 14th century during the golden age of ...
in Fez alone, and several other madrasas as well in other cities such as
Salé Salé ( ar, سلا, salā, ; ber, ⵙⵍⴰ, sla) is a city in northwestern Morocco, on the right bank of the Bou Regreg river, opposite the national capital Rabat, for which it serves as a commuter town. Founded in about 1030 by the Banu Ifran ...
and
Meknes Meknes ( ar, مكناس, maknās, ; ber, ⴰⵎⴽⵏⴰⵙ, amknas; french: Meknès) is one of the four Imperial cities of Morocco, located in northern central Morocco and the sixth largest city by population in the kingdom. Founded in the 11th c ...
. His son
Abu Inan Faris Abu Inan Faris (1329 – 10 January 1358) ( ar, أبو عنان فارس بن علي) was a Marinid ruler of Morocco. He succeeded his father Abu al-Hasan Ali ibn Othman in 1348. He extended his rule over Tlemcen and Ifriqiya, which covered th ...
built the famed
Bou Inania Madrasa The Madrasa Bou Inania (; ) is a madrasa in Fes, Morocco, built in 1350–55 CE by Abu Inan Faris. It is the only madrasa in Morocco which also functioned as a congregational mosque. It is widely acknowledged as a high point of Marinid architect ...
, and by the time of his death, every major city in the Marinid Empire had at least one madrasa.Penell, C.R. ''Morocco: From Empire to Independence''; Oneworld Publications, Oct 1, 2013. pp.66-67. The largest madrasa in the heart of the medina is the
Cherratine Madrasa Cherratine Madrasa () is an Islamic school or madrasa that was built in 1670 by the Alaouite Sultan Moulay al-Rashid. It is located in the city of Fez in Morocco. The madrasa is also called Er-Rachidia Madrasa or Ras al-Cherratine Madrasa. Hi ...
commissioned by the
Alaouite The Alawi dynasty ( ar, سلالة العلويين الفيلاليين, translit=sulālat al-ʿalawiyyīn al-fīlāliyyīn) – also rendered in English as Alaouite, Alawid, or Alawite – is the current Moroccan royal family and reigning d ...
sultan Sultan (; ar, سلطان ', ) is a position with several historical meanings. Originally, it was an Arabic abstract noun meaning "strength", "authority", "rulership", derived from the verbal noun ', meaning "authority" or "power". Later, it ...
Al-Rashid in 1670. File:29610-Fez (28134041211) (saffarin crop).jpg,
Saffarin Madrasa ) , image=Place es Seffarine (588955430).jpg , caption=A part of the madrasa courtyard , location=Fez, Morocco , coordinates= , geo= , religious_affiliation=Islam , rite= , sect = Sunni , region= , province= , district= , consecration_year= , status ...
(dated to 1271): minaret is on the left and prayer hall (pyramidal roof) on the right File:Sahrij Medersa, Fes, Morocco-1.jpg,
Sahrij Madrasa Sahrij Madrasa or Madrasa al-Sahrij (sometimes also Sihrij Madrasa) () is a madrasa in Fez, Morocco. The madrasa is located inside Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter of the city. The madrasa dates back to the 14th century during the golden age of ...
(built in 1321–1328) File:Al-Attarine Madrasa DSCF3541 (R Prazeres).jpg,
Al-Attarine Madrasa The Al-Attarine Madrasa or Medersa al-Attarine () is a madrasa in Fes, Morocco, near the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque. It was built by the Marinid sultan Uthman II Abu Said (r. 1310-1331) in 1323-5. The madrasa takes its name from the Souk al-Attarine ...
(built in 1323–1325) File:Bou inania DSCF4610.jpg,
Bou Inania Madrasa The Madrasa Bou Inania (; ) is a madrasa in Fes, Morocco, built in 1350–55 CE by Abu Inan Faris. It is the only madrasa in Morocco which also functioned as a congregational mosque. It is widely acknowledged as a high point of Marinid architect ...
(built in 1350–1355) File:Cherratine DSCF6206.jpg,
Cherratine Madrasa Cherratine Madrasa () is an Islamic school or madrasa that was built in 1670 by the Alaouite Sultan Moulay al-Rashid. It is located in the city of Fez in Morocco. The madrasa is also called Er-Rachidia Madrasa or Ras al-Cherratine Madrasa. Hi ...
(founded in 1670) File:Medersa Cherratine - Medersa Cherratine - Fès - Médiathèque de l'architecture et du patrimoine - AP62T060665.jpg,
Mesbahiyya Madrasa Mesbahiyya Madrasa ( ar, المدرسة المصباحية) is a madrasa in Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter in the city of Fez, Morocco. The madrasa was completed in 1346, during the Marinid period, under the patronage of the Marinid sultan A ...
(completed in 1346; photo from 1916)


Tombs, mausoleums, and zawiyas

Located in the heart of Fes el Bali, the Zawiya of Moulay Idriss II is a '' zawiya'' (a shrine and religious complex; also spelled ''zaouia''), dedicated to and containing the tomb of
Idris II Idris bin Idris ( ar, إدريس بن إدريس) known as Idris II ( ar, إدريس الثاني) (August 791 – August 828), was the son of Idris I, the founder of the Idrisid dynasty in Morocco. He was born in Walīlī two months after the de ...
(or Moulay Idris II when including his
sharif Sharīf ( ar, شريف, 'noble', 'highborn'), also spelled shareef or sherif, feminine sharīfa (), plural ashrāf (), shurafāʾ (), or (in the Maghreb) shurfāʾ, is a title used to designate a person descended, or claiming to be descended, fr ...
ian title) who is considered the main founder of the city of Fez. Another well-known and important zawiya is the Zawiyia of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani, which commemorates Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani, the founder of
Tijaniyyah The Tijāniyyah ( ar, الطريقة التجانية, Al-Ṭarīqah al-Tijāniyyah, The Tijānī Path) is a Sufi tariqa (order, path), originating in the Maghreb but now more widespread in West Africa, particularly in Senegal, The Gambia, ...
''
tariqa A tariqa (or ''tariqah''; ar, طريقة ') is a school or order of Sufism, or specifically a concept for the mystical teaching and spiritual practices of such an order with the aim of seeking ''haqiqa'', which translates as "ultimate truth". ...
'' from the 18th century. A number of zawiyas are scattered elsewhere across the city, many containing the tombs of important Sufi saints or scholars, such as the
Zawiya of Sidi Abdelkader al-Fassi The Zawiya of Sidi Abdelkader al-Fassi, also known as the Zawiya al-Fassiya, is historically one of the most important zawiyas (religious complex and Sufi sanctuary) in Fes, Morocco. It is named after Sidi Abdelkader al-Fassi (also spelled ''Abd ...
, the
Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed esh-Shawi Zawiya (institution) is an Islamic religious school or monastery. Zawiya, Zawiyah, Zawia, Zaouia, Zaouiet and similar terms may also refer to: Places Algeria * Aïn Zaouia, an Algerian town * Mazer Zaouia, an Algerian village * Zaouia El Abidia, ...
, and the
Zawiya of Sidi Taoudi Ben Souda The Zawiya of Sidi Taoudi Ben Souda (also spelled Zawiya of Sidi Tawdi ibn Suda) is a zawiya (religious complex) and mosque in Fes el-Bali, the old medina of Fes, Morocco. It is named after Muḥammad al-Tāwdī Ibn al-Ṭālib Ibn Sūda al-Mu ...
. The old city also has several major historic cemeteries which existed outside the main city gates, namely the cemeteries of
Bab Ftouh Bab Ftouh (also spelled Bab Fetouh) is the main southeastern gate of Fes el-Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. History The name ''Bab (al-)Ftouh'' means literally "Gate of the Opening", but historically this name (also used for Bab ...
(the most significant),
Bab Mahrouk Bab Mahrouk, also spelled Bab Mahruq, ( ) is historically the main western city gate of Fes el Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. The gate dates from 1204 and is located on the northwestern corner of Place Bou Jeloud, near the edge of Ka ...
, and
Bab Guissa Bab Guissa or Bab Gisa ( or ) is the main northwestern gate of Fes el Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. History A gate by this name had existed in this part of the city walls since at least the 11th century. That gate was named after a ...
. Some of these cemeteries include
marabout A marabout ( ar, مُرابِط, murābiṭ, lit=one who is attached/garrisoned) is a Muslim religious leader and teacher who historically had the function of a chaplain serving as a part of an Islamic army, notably in North Africa and the Saha ...
s or domed structures containing the tombs of local
Muslim saints A wali (''wali'' ar, وَلِيّ, '; plural , '), the Arabic word which has been variously translated "master", "authority", "custodian", "protector", is most commonly used by Muslims to indicate an Islamic saint, otherwise referred to by the ...
(often considered
Sufis Sufism ( ar, ''aṣ-ṣūfiyya''), also known as Tasawwuf ( ''at-taṣawwuf''), is a mysticism, mystic body of religious practice, found mainly within Sunni Islam but also within Shia Islam, which is characterized by a focus on Islamic spiri ...
). One of the most important ones is the
Marabout of Sidi Harazem The Marabout or Mausoleum of Sidi Harazem is a funerary monument and shrine in Fez, Morocco. It is located in the Bab Ftouh Cemetery, one of the city's largest historic cemeteries. It contains the tomb of Sidi 'Ali ibn Harazem (also spelled Har ...
in the Bab Ftouh Cemetery. To the north, near the Bab Guissa Cemetery, there are also the
Marinid Tombs The Marinid Tombs or Merenid Tombs are a set of ruined monumental tombs on a hill above and north of Fes al-Bali, the old city of Fez, Morocco. They were originally a royal necropolis for the Marinid dynasty which ruled over Morocco in the 13th ...
built during the 14th century as a necropolis for the Marinid sultans, ruined today but still a well-known landmark of the city. File:Mausolée de Moulay Idriss II 13102019 005.jpg, Interior of the Mausoleum of Moulay Idris II, part of a zawiya around the tomb of
Idris II Idris bin Idris ( ar, إدريس بن إدريس) known as Idris II ( ar, إدريس الثاني) (August 791 – August 828), was the son of Idris I, the founder of the Idrisid dynasty in Morocco. He was born in Walīlī two months after the de ...
File:Zaouiya Tidjaniya de Fès - grille.jpg, Interior of the
Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani The Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani, or Zawiya Tijaniya Al Koubra, () is a zawiya, an Islamic religious complex building for education and commemoration, in Fez, Morocco. The building is located inside Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter of the ci ...
, the burial site of the 18th-century
Sufi Sufism ( ar, ''aṣ-ṣūfiyya''), also known as Tasawwuf ( ''at-taṣawwuf''), is a mystic body of religious practice, found mainly within Sunni Islam but also within Shia Islam, which is characterized by a focus on Islamic spirituality, ...
sheikh Sheikh (pronounced or ; ar, شيخ ' , mostly pronounced , plural ' )—also transliterated sheekh, sheyikh, shaykh, shayk, shekh, shaik and Shaikh, shak—is an honorific title in the Arabic language. It commonly designates a chief of a ...
Ahmad al-Tijani Ahmad ( ar, أحمد, ʾAḥmad) is an Arabic male given name common in most parts of the Muslim world. Other spellings of the name include Ahmed and Ahmet. Etymology The word derives from the root (ḥ-m-d), from the Arabic (), from the ve ...
File:Sidi Abdelkader el Fassi 2 DSCF2504.jpg, Minaret of the
Zawiya of Sidi Abdelkader al-Fassi The Zawiya of Sidi Abdelkader al-Fassi, also known as the Zawiya al-Fassiya, is historically one of the most important zawiyas (religious complex and Sufi sanctuary) in Fes, Morocco. It is named after Sidi Abdelkader al-Fassi (also spelled ''Abd ...
(established in 17th century, expanded afterward) File:Mausoleum of sidi harazem DSCF4591.jpg, Mausoleum of Sidi Harazem (current structure from 18th century; photo taken during recent restorations) File:Fes, Morocco - panoramio (1).jpg, The cemetery of
Bab Ftouh Bab Ftouh (also spelled Bab Fetouh) is the main southeastern gate of Fes el-Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. History The name ''Bab (al-)Ftouh'' means literally "Gate of the Opening", but historically this name (also used for Bab ...
, the largest of the old city File:Bab mahrouk cemetery.jpg, The cemetery of
Bab Mahrouk Bab Mahrouk, also spelled Bab Mahruq, ( ) is historically the main western city gate of Fes el Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. The gate dates from 1204 and is located on the northwestern corner of Place Bou Jeloud, near the edge of Ka ...
File:Marinid Tombs in April 2016 2.jpg, Remains of the
Marinid Tombs The Marinid Tombs or Merenid Tombs are a set of ruined monumental tombs on a hill above and north of Fes al-Bali, the old city of Fez, Morocco. They were originally a royal necropolis for the Marinid dynasty which ruled over Morocco in the 13th ...


Funduqs/foundouks (historic merchant buildings)

The old city of Fez includes more than a hundred ''funduq''s or ''foundouk''s (traditional inns, or urban caravanserais). These were commercial structures which provided lodging for merchants and travelers or housed the workshops of artisans. They also frequently served as venues for other commercial activities such as markets and auctions. One of the most famous is the
Funduq al-Najjarin Funduq al-Najjarin ( ar, فندق النجارين, lit=Inn of the carpenters) (also spelled ''Fondouk (el-)Nejjarine'') is a historic ''funduq'' (a caravanserai or traditional inn) in Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter in the city of Fez, Morocc ...
, which was built in the 18th century by Amin Adiyil to provide accommodation and storage for merchants and which now houses the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts. Other major examples include the
Funduq Shamma'in The Funduq al-Shamma'in or (if using the French transliteration) Foundouk Chemmaïne () is a medieval ''funduq'' (urban caravanserai) in Fes, Morocco. It is also directly adjoined by another funduq structure, the Funduq al-Sbitriyyin; as a resul ...
(also spelled ''Foundouk Chemmaïne'') and the
Funduq Staouniyyin The Funduq Staouniyyin (pronounced ''foon-dook sta-woo-nee-yeen'') or Funduq al-Tetwaniyyin (also spelled Foundouk Staouniyine, Fondouk Stawniyin, or Foundouk Tetouaniyine) is a historic ''funduq'' (caravanserai) in Fes el-Bali, the old city of F ...
(or "Funduq of the Tetouanis"), both dating from the
Marinid The Marinid Sultanate was a Berber Muslim empire from the mid-13th to the 15th century which controlled present-day Morocco and, intermittently, other parts of North Africa (Algeria and Tunisia) and of the southern Iberian Peninsula (Spain) a ...
era or earlier, and the
Funduq Sagha Funduq Sagha () (also spelled ''Fondouk Sagha'') is a historic ''funduq'' (a caravanserai or traditional inn) in Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter in the city of Fez, Morocco. History The funduq was built in 1711 CE (1123 AH) during the r ...
which is contemporary with the Funduq al-Najjarin. File:Foundouk chemmaine.jpg, Rooftop of the Funduq Shamma'in or Sbitriyin (founded in 13th century or earlier) File:Fez (8031186805).jpg, Interior of the
Funduq Staouniyyin The Funduq Staouniyyin (pronounced ''foon-dook sta-woo-nee-yeen'') or Funduq al-Tetwaniyyin (also spelled Foundouk Staouniyine, Fondouk Stawniyin, or Foundouk Tetouaniyine) is a historic ''funduq'' (caravanserai) in Fes el-Bali, the old city of F ...
(or Funduq al-Tetwaniyyin), founded in 14th century File:Fondouk nejjarine DSCF4296.jpg,
Funduq al-Najjarin Funduq al-Najjarin ( ar, فندق النجارين, lit=Inn of the carpenters) (also spelled ''Fondouk (el-)Nejjarine'') is a historic ''funduq'' (a caravanserai or traditional inn) in Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter in the city of Fez, Morocc ...
(built in 1711; currently the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts) File:Fes DSC03646 Morocco (15278879402) (retouched).jpg, Entrance of the
Funduq Sagha Funduq Sagha () (also spelled ''Fondouk Sagha'') is a historic ''funduq'' (a caravanserai or traditional inn) in Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter in the city of Fez, Morocco. History The funduq was built in 1711 CE (1123 AH) during the r ...
(also built in 1711) File:Fes Morocco Medina Old Caravansary Sept 2014 - 5 (15302739683).jpg, Funduq Kettanin (late 19th century)


Hammams (bathhouses)

Fez is also notable for having preserved a great many of its historic hammams (public bathhouses in the Muslim world), thanks in part to their continued usage by locals up to the present day. Out of the total 5000 hammãms in Morocco, 120 of them are located within Fez. Notable examples, all dating from around the 14th century, include the Hammam as-Saffarin, the
Hammam al-Mokhfiya Hammam al-Mokhfiya (also spelled Mukhfiyya or Makhfia) is a historic hammam (bathhouse) in the medina (old city) of Fes, Morocco. It is located in the neighbourhood of the same name (al-Mokhfiya), south of Place R'cif. Based on its similarities in ...
, and the Hammam Ben Abbad. They were generally built next to a well or natural spring which provided water, while the sloping topography of the city allowed for easy drainage. The layout of the traditional hammam in the region was inherited from the Roman bathhouse model. The first major room visitors entered was the undressing room (''mashlah'' in
Arabic Arabic (, ' ; , ' or ) is a Semitic languages, Semitic language spoken primarily across the Arab world.Semitic languages: an international handbook / edited by Stefan Weninger; in collaboration with Geoffrey Khan, Michael P. Streck, Janet C ...
or ''goulsa'' in the local
Moroccan Arabic Moroccan Arabic ( ar, العربية المغربية الدارجة, translit=al-ʻArabīya al-Maghribīya ad-Dārija ), also known as Darija (), is the dialectal, vernacular form or forms of Arabic spoken in Morocco. It is part of the Maghrebi ...
dialect), equivalent to the Roman
apodyterium In ancient Rome, the apodyterium (from grc, ἀποδυτήριον "undressing room") was the primary entry in the public baths, composed of a large changing room with cubicles or shelves where citizens could store clothing and other belongings ...
. From the undressing room visitors proceeded to the bathing/washing area which consisted of three rooms: the cold room (''el-barrani'' in the local Arabic dialect; equivalent to the
frigidarium A frigidarium is one of the three main bath chambers of a Roman bath or ''thermae'', namely the cold room. It often contains a swimming pool. The succession of bathing activities in the ''thermae'' is not known with certainty, but it is thought ...
), the middle room or warm room (''el-wasti'' in Arabic; equivalent to the
tepidarium The tepidarium was the warm (''tepidus'') bathroom of the Roman baths heated by a hypocaust or underfloor heating system. The speciality of a tepidarium is the pleasant feeling of constant radiant heat which directly affects the human body from t ...
), and the hot room (''ad-dakhli'' in Arabic; equivalent to the
caldarium 230px, Caldarium from the Roman Baths at Bath, England. The floor has been removed to reveal the empty space where the hot air flowed through to heat the floor. A caldarium (also called a calidarium, cella caldaria or cella coctilium) was a room ...
). Though their architecture can be very functional, some of them, like the Hammam as-Saffarin and the Hammam al-Mokhfiya, have notable decoration. Although they are architecturally not very prominent from the exterior, they are recognizable from the rooftops by their pierced domes and vaults which usually covered the main chambers. Walls are coated with Tadlakt to smoothen their surfaces and to resist the high humidity. The warm and hot rooms were heated using a traditional
hypocaust A hypocaust ( la, hypocaustum) is a system of central heating in a building that produces and circulates hot air below the floor of a room, and may also warm the walls with a series of pipes through which the hot air passes. This air can warm th ...
system just as Roman bathhouses did, with furnaces usually located behind the hot room. Fuel was provided by wood but also by recycling the waste by-products of other industries in the city such as wood shavings from
carpenters Carpentry is a skilled trade and a craft in which the primary work performed is the cutting, shaping and installation of building materials during the construction of buildings, ships, timber bridges, concrete formwork, etc. Carpenters tra ...
' workshops and
olive The olive, botanical name ''Olea europaea'', meaning 'European olive' in Latin, is a species of small tree or shrub in the family Oleaceae, found traditionally in the Mediterranean Basin. When in shrub form, it is known as ''Olea europaea'' ...
pits from the nearby
olive presses Olive oil extraction is the process of extracting the oil present in olive drupes, known as olive oil. Olive oil is produced in the mesocarp cells, and stored in a particular type of vacuole called a lipo vacuole, i.e., every cell contai ...
. This traditional system continued to be used even up to the 21st century.


Street fountains (''saqayya''s)

Fes is also known for numerous fountains which offered free water. Fountains were often included in palaces for the pleasure of its residents, in mosques and madrasas for the purpose of ablutions, or even as part of specially-dedicated ablutions facilities attached to religious buildings. Many fountains, however, are also built along the sides of streets or on the exterior of buildings. According to historical authors, at the beginning of the 13th century there were around 80 fountains of this type in Fes. These wall fountains of Fes generally share similar characteristics and decoration. Their original construction was often an act of charity sponsored by patrons with means, which is sometimes recorded by a surviving inscription. They are often decorated with ''zellij'' tiling, carved stucco, and a canopy of carved wood or even of ''muqarnas''. Probably the most famous of these is the Nejjarine Fountain (''Saqqayat an-Najjarin'') located in front of the
Funduq al-Najjarin Funduq al-Najjarin ( ar, فندق النجارين, lit=Inn of the carpenters) (also spelled ''Fondouk (el-)Nejjarine'') is a historic ''funduq'' (a caravanserai or traditional inn) in Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter in the city of Fez, Morocc ...
(the present-day Nejjarine Museum). It was commissioned in the 19th century by the Sultan
Abd al-Rahman Abd al-Rahman ( ar, عبد الرحمن, translit=ʿAbd al-Raḥmān or occasionally ; DMG ''ʿAbd ar-Raḥman''; also Abdul Rahman) is a male Arabic Muslim given name, and in modern usage, surname. It is built from the Arabic words '' Abd'', '' ...
(ruled 1822–1859).Nejjarin Funduq
''Museum with no Frontiers''. Retrieved January 23, 2018.
It is richly decorated with a surface of ''zellij'' tiling framed by an arch of carved stucco, overshadowed by a canopy of carved wood surmounted by a short roof green tiles. Along its base, below the taps, is a rectangular basin. A much older example is the Fountain of Sidi Frej, located near the
Maristan of Sidi Frej The Maristan of Sidi Frej or Maristan of Fez was a historic maristan in Fez, Morocco. It was founded by the Marinids in the 13th century and functioned as a hospital and as a hospice for the destitute and mentally ill up until the 20th century. I ...
and the Henna Souk. It is the oldest reliably-dated fountain in the city. Like the Nejjarine Fountain, it has a back wall covered in ''zellij'' tiles (although in a simpler motif) framed by a pointed horseshoe arch inside another simple rectangular frame (an ''
alfiz The alfiz (, from Andalusi Arabic ''alḥíz'', from Standard Arabic ''alḥáyyiz'', meaning 'the container';Alf ...
''). Inside the arch, set amidst the ''zellij'' tiles, are small panels of black and white marble carved with ornate arch motifs. Below and in front of this decorative area is a water basin. Above the decorated area is a larger surface, nearly plain except for a small
blind arch A blind arch is an arch found in the wall of a building that has been infilled with solid construction and so cannot serve as a passageway, door or window.''A Dictionary of Architecture''; Fleming, John; Honour, Hugh & Pevsner, Nikolaus (1966) T ...
in the middle with a double-pointed lambrequin profile. Above this all is a wooden canopy, relatively simple in design, with an inscription repeating a particular blessing in Arabic. Most notably, inside the small lambrequin blind arch below this is a rectangular marble panel containing the original foundation inscription. The text describes the fountain's creation and praises its founder,
Abd al-Haqq II Abd al-Haqq II () (Abd al-Haqq ibn Uthman Abu Muhammad; 1419 – 14 August 1465) was Marinid Sultan of Morocco from 1420 to 1465. Life Abd al-Haqq II was made sultan in 1420 under the regency of a Wattasid ''vizier'', and later was nominal ...
(the last Marinid sultan). It also mentions that the fountain's construction was supervised by the sultan's vizier, Abu Zakariya Yahya ibn Ziyan al-Wattasi (who founded the subsequent
Wattasid dynasty The Wattasid dynasty ( ber, Iweṭṭasen; ar, الوطاسيون, ''al-waṭṭāsīyūn'') was a ruling dynasty of Morocco. Like the Marinid dynasty, its rulers were of Zenata Berber descent. The two families were related, and the Marinids r ...
). Lastly, it indicates that construction was finished on Jumada I, 840 AH (November 11, 1436 CE). Another line added just above the original text states that the fountain was restored in 1090 AH (1679 CE). The fountain has thus been much restored, and
Alfred Bel Alfred Bel (14 May 1873, Salins-les-Bains – 18 February 1945, Meknes, aged 71) was a French orientalist and scholar of Arab The Arabs (singular: Arab; singular ar, عَرَبِيٌّ, DIN 31635: , , plural ar, عَرَب, DIN 31635: ...
believed that it was probably once covered in carved stucco decoration which was then lost over time. The inscription and the small marble panel ornaments are from the original Marinid construction, while the wooden canopy above dates from the 17th century restoration. Today, some tiles along the top of the water basin visibly indicate, in both French and Arabic, a modern restoration in 1986. File:Sidi frej fountain DSCF4234.jpg, Fountain of Sidi Frej (built in 1426 with later restorations) File:Dar Tazi, Fes, Morocco - panoramio (1).jpg, Nejjarine Fountain (19th century) File:Saqiya, Fes Medina (8755036070).jpg, Another fountain on Tala'a Seghira (dated to 1923–24 according to its inscription)


Tanneries

Since the inception of the city,
tanning Tanning may refer to: *Tanning (leather), treating animal skins to produce leather *Sun tanning, using the sun to darken pale skin **Indoor tanning, the use of artificial light in place of the sun **Sunless tanning, application of a stain or dye t ...
industry has been continually operating in the same fashion as it did in the early centuries. Today, the tanning industry in the city is considered one of the main tourist attractions. There are three tanneries in the city, largest among them is
Chouara Tannery Chouara Tannery (sometimes spelled Chouwara) is one of the three tanneries in the city of Fez, Morocco. It is the largest tannery in the city and one of the oldest. It is located in Fes el Bali, the oldest medina quarter of the city, near the Saffa ...
near the Saffarin Madrasa along the river. The tanneries are packed with the round stone wells filled with dye or white liquids for softening the hides. The leather goods produced in the tanneries are exported around the world. The two other major tanneries are the
Sidi Moussa Tannery The Sidi Moussa Tannery or Guerniz Tannery is a historic tanning facility located in the heart of Fes el-Bali, the historic ''medina'' of Fez, Morocco. The tannery is located in the Guerniz neighbourhood, near the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II and the ...
to the west of the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II and the Ain Azliten Tannery in the neighbourhood of the same name on the northern edge of Fes el-Bali. File:Chouara Tannery - 154 - Marokko Handybilder 2018 - Fes (27347707917).jpg,
Chouara Tannery Chouara Tannery (sometimes spelled Chouwara) is one of the three tanneries in the city of Fez, Morocco. It is the largest tannery in the city and one of the oldest. It is located in Fes el Bali, the oldest medina quarter of the city, near the Saffa ...
File:Fez (50565990206).jpg,
Sidi Moussa Tannery The Sidi Moussa Tannery or Guerniz Tannery is a historic tanning facility located in the heart of Fes el-Bali, the historic ''medina'' of Fez, Morocco. The tannery is located in the Guerniz neighbourhood, near the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II and the ...
File:Fes, Morocco (5413068001) (4).jpg, Ain Azliten Tannery


Historic houses and riads

Many old private residences have also survived to this day, in various states of conservation. One type of house known, centered around an internal courtyard, is known as a '' riad''. The term ''riad'' originates from the Arabic term for garden, ar, رياض (''riyad''). Historically, the term referred to a common but specific type of interior garden: one that is symmetrically divided into four parts along its central axes and typically has a fountain at its middle. Today, a riad also refers to historic houses which have been converted into guesthouses for tourists and visitors. A typical riad in Fes has two or more storeys, whilst having an inward focus with a central courtyard. Generally, riads are open roof in order to allow air, sunlight to enter the courtyard, butt today some riads have a roof or cover over the courtyard or have pitched roof edges to prevent an excess of rain to enter. Riads also consist of very few windows on the exterior walls, in order to allow for privacy. The walls often consist of clay or mud brick, whilst are also adorned with
tadelakt ''Tadelakt'' () is a waterproof plaster surface used in Moroccan architecture to make baths, sinks, water vessels, interior and exterior walls, ceilings, roofs, and floors. It is made from lime plaster, which is rammed, polished, and treated with ...
plaster and ''zellij'' tile work. Some of the houses include the Dar al-Alami, the Dar Saada (now a restaurant), Dar 'Adiyil, Dar Belghazi, and others. Larger and richer mansions, such as the
Dar Mnebhi The Mnebhi Palace or Menebhi Palace (), also known by its French name ''Palais Mnebhi'', is a historic early 20th-century palace in Fes el-Bali, the old medina of Fes, Morocco. It is notable for both its lavish architecture as well as for being ...
,
Dar Moqri Dar Moqri (also spelled Dar al-Moqri or Dar Mokri) is a historic palace or group of mansions in Fes el-Bali, the old medina of Fes, Morocco. It dates from the late 19th and early 20th centuries and was built by the wealthy and powerful Moqri fam ...
, and Palais Jamaï (Jamai Palace), have also been preserved. Numerous palaces and riads are now utilized as hotels for the tourism industry. The Palais Jamai, for example, was converted into a luxury hotel in the early 20th century. The lavish former mansion of the
Glaoui Thami El Glaoui ( ar, التهامي الكلاوي; 1879–23 January 1956) was the Pasha of Marrakesh from 1912 to 1956. His family name was el Mezouari, from a title given an ancestor by Ismail Ibn Sharif in 1700, while El Glaoui refers to his ...
clan, known as the
Dar Glaoui Dar Glaoui or Glaoui Palace (sometimes called by its French name, ''Palais Glaoui'') is a late 19th-century and early 20th-century palace in Fez, Morocco. It was originally constructed and owned by Thami El Glaoui, the pasha of Marrakesh at the ...
, is partly open to visitors but still privately owned. File:MoroccoFesMedrassa BenYoussef.jpg,
Dar Adiyel Dar Adiyel or Dar 'Adiyil is a historic mansion in Fes el-Bali, the old medina of Fes, Morocco. It is located in the Zqaq el-Bghal neighbourhood, a short distance south from Tala'a Seghira street. History The exact date of the house's constr ...
, an early 18th-century mansion File:Fez, Morocco (3636868446).jpg,
Dar Moqri Dar Moqri (also spelled Dar al-Moqri or Dar Mokri) is a historic palace or group of mansions in Fes el-Bali, the old medina of Fes, Morocco. It dates from the late 19th and early 20th centuries and was built by the wealthy and powerful Moqri fam ...
, a late 19th and early 20th century palace File:Fez, Morocco (318135754).jpg, Dar Ba Mohammed Chergui (early 20th century) File:Palais mnebhi IMG 2609.jpg,
Dar Mnebhi The Mnebhi Palace or Menebhi Palace (), also known by its French name ''Palais Mnebhi'', is a historic early 20th-century palace in Fes el-Bali, the old medina of Fes, Morocco. It is notable for both its lavish architecture as well as for being ...
(early 20th century) File:Medersa - Medersa, le patio - Fès - Médiathèque de l'architecture et du patrimoine - AP62T060674.jpg, Courtyard of the
Dar Glaoui Dar Glaoui or Glaoui Palace (sometimes called by its French name, ''Palais Glaoui'') is a late 19th-century and early 20th-century palace in Fez, Morocco. It was originally constructed and owned by Thami El Glaoui, the pasha of Marrakesh at the ...
(1916 photo) File:Fez (47846977132).jpg, Example of a restored private riad in Fez


Royal Palaces

As a former capital, the city contains several royal palaces as well. A large area of Fes el-Jdid is taken up by the 80-hectare Royal Palace, or Dar al-Makhzen, whose new ornate gates (built in 1969–71) are renowned but whose grounds are not open to the public as they are still used by the King of Morocco when visiting the city.
Dar Batha Dar Batḥa ( ar, دار البطحاء, pronounced ''Bat-ḥaa''), or Qasr al-Batḥa ( ar, قصر البطحاء), is a former royal palace in the city of Fez, Morocco. The palace was commissioned by the Alaouite Sultan Hassan I in the late 19th ...
is a former palace completed by the Alaouite Sultan Moulay Abdelaziz (ruled 1894–1908) and turned into a museum in 1915 with around 6,000 pieces. File:Kings palace in Fes (5364773212).jpg, Gates of the Royal Palace of Fez (the gates were crafted in the 20th century but the palace has been established here since the late 13th century) File:Dar Batha DSCF2877.jpg,
Dar Batha Dar Batḥa ( ar, دار البطحاء, pronounced ''Bat-ḥaa''), or Qasr al-Batḥa ( ar, قصر البطحاء), is a former royal palace in the city of Fez, Morocco. The palace was commissioned by the Alaouite Sultan Hassan I in the late 19th ...
, a late 19th-century palace; now the Batha Museum


Gardens

The Jnane Sbile Garden was created as a royal park and garden in the 19th century by
Sultan Sultan (; ar, سلطان ', ) is a position with several historical meanings. Originally, it was an Arabic abstract noun meaning "strength", "authority", "rulership", derived from the verbal noun ', meaning "authority" or "power". Later, it ...
Moulay Hassan I (ruled 1873–1894) between Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali. Today it is the oldest garden of Fes. Many bourgeois and aristocratic mansions were also accompanied by private gardens, especially in the southwestern part of Fes el-Bali, an area once known as al-'Uyun. Other gardens also exist within the grounds of the historic royal palaces of the city, such as the Agdal and Lalla Mina Gardens in the Dar al-Makhzen or the gardens of the Dar al-Beida (originally attached to
Dar Batha Dar Batḥa ( ar, دار البطحاء, pronounced ''Bat-ḥaa''), or Qasr al-Batḥa ( ar, قصر البطحاء), is a former royal palace in the city of Fez, Morocco. The palace was commissioned by the Alaouite Sultan Hassan I in the late 19th ...
). In the late 13th century the Marinid sultans created the vast royal garden of al-Mosara, which covered a vast area north of Fes el-Jdid, but these disappeared in the centuries after the fall of the Marinids.


Fortifications


City walls

The entire medina of Fez was heavily fortified with crenelated walls with watchtowers and gates, a pattern of urban planning which can be seen in Salé and
Chellah The Chellah or Shalla ( ber, script=Latn, Sla or ; ar, شالة), is a medieval fortified Muslim necropolis and ancient archeological site in Rabat, Morocco, located on the south (left) side of the Bou Regreg estuary. The earliest evidence of th ...
as well. City walls were placed into the current positions during the 11th century, under the Almoravid rule. During this period, the two formerly divided cities known as ''Madinat Fas'' and ''al-'Aliya'' were united under a single enclosure. The Almoravid fortifications were later destroyed and then rebuilt by the Almohad dynasty in the 12th century, under Caliph
Muhammad al-Nasir Muhammad al-Nasir (,'' al-Nāṣir li-dīn Allāh Muḥammad ibn al-Manṣūr'', – 1213) was the fourth Almohad Caliph from 1199 until his death.Évariste Lévi-Provençalal-Nāṣir Encyclopaedia of Islam, Second Edition. Brill Online, 2013. ...
. The oldest sections of the walls today thus date back to this time. These fortifications were restored and maintained by the Marinid dynasty from the 12th to 16th centuries, along with the founding of the royal citadel-city of Fes el-Jdid. Construction of the new city's gates and towers sometimes employed the labour of Christian prisoners of war. File:Fes (5364214781).jpg, View of unrestored
city walls A defensive wall is a fortification usually used to protect a city, town or other settlement from potential aggressors. The walls can range from simple palisades or earthworks to extensive military fortifications with towers, bastions and gates ...
on the north side of the Fes el-Bali, likely dating from
Almohad The Almohad Caliphate (; ar, خِلَافَةُ ٱلْمُوَحِّدِينَ or or from ar, ٱلْمُوَحِّدُونَ, translit=al-Muwaḥḥidūn, lit=those who profess the Tawhid, unity of God) was a North African Berbers, Berber M ...
period (early 13th century) File:Mouay abdallah entrance.jpg, Section of unrestored city walls on the north side of
Fes Jdid Fes Jdid or Fes el-Jdid () is one of the three parts of Fez, Morocco. It was founded by the Marinids in 1276 as an extension of Fes el Bali (the old city or ''medina'') and as a royal citadel and capital. It is occupied in large part by the hist ...
, dating from the
Marinid The Marinid Sultanate was a Berber Muslim empire from the mid-13th to the 15th century which controlled present-day Morocco and, intermittently, other parts of North Africa (Algeria and Tunisia) and of the southern Iberian Peninsula (Spain) a ...
period (late 13th century) File:Citywall fas.jpg, Section of restored city walls near
Bab Mahrouk Bab Mahrouk, also spelled Bab Mahruq, ( ) is historically the main western city gate of Fes el Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. The gate dates from 1204 and is located on the northwestern corner of Place Bou Jeloud, near the edge of Ka ...


City gates

The gates of Fez, scattered along the circuit of walls, were guarded by the military detachments and shut at night. Some of the main gates have existed, in different forms, since the earliest years of the city. The oldest gates today, and historically the most important ones of the city, are
Bab Mahrouk Bab Mahrouk, also spelled Bab Mahruq, ( ) is historically the main western city gate of Fes el Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. The gate dates from 1204 and is located on the northwestern corner of Place Bou Jeloud, near the edge of Ka ...
(in the west),
Bab Guissa Bab Guissa or Bab Gisa ( or ) is the main northwestern gate of Fes el Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. History A gate by this name had existed in this part of the city walls since at least the 11th century. That gate was named after a ...
(in the northeast), and
Bab Ftouh Bab Ftouh (also spelled Bab Fetouh) is the main southeastern gate of Fes el-Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. History The name ''Bab (al-)Ftouh'' means literally "Gate of the Opening", but historically this name (also used for Bab ...
(in the southeast). After the foundation of Fes Jdid by the Marinids in the 13th century, new walls and three new gates such as
Bab Dekkakin Bab Dekkakin or Bab Dekakene () is a fortified and ceremonial gate in Fes, Morocco. The gate is situated between the Old Mechouar (or ''Vieux Méchouar'') and the New Mechouar (or ''Nouveau Méchouar'') on the northern edge of Fes el-Jdid. ...
,
Bab Semmarine Bab Semmarine () is the monumental southern gate of Fes el-Jdid, a part of the old city of Fez, Morocco. History The original gate at this location was initially called ''Bab 'Oyun Sanhaja'' ("Gate of the (water) Sources of the Sanhaja"). The ...
, and
Bab al-Amer Bab al-Amer () is one of the historic city gates of Fes, Morocco. It was the southwestern entrance to Fes el-Jdid, the royal city founded in 1276 by the Marinids west of Fes el Bali. History Fes el-Jdid was founded as a fortified administrat ...
were established along its perimeter. Later, in modern times, the gates became more ceremonial rather than defensive structures, as reflected by the 1913 construction of the decorative
Bab Bou Jeloud Bab Bou Jeloud (also spelled Bab Boujeloud or Bab Boujloud) is an ornate city gate in Fes el Bali, the old city of Fez, Morocco. The current gate was built by the French colonial administration in 1913 to serve as the grand entrance to the old c ...
gate at the western entrance of Fes el-Bali by the French colonial administration. File:Bab mahrouk.jpg,
Bab Mahrouk Bab Mahrouk, also spelled Bab Mahruq, ( ) is historically the main western city gate of Fes el Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. The gate dates from 1204 and is located on the northwestern corner of Place Bou Jeloud, near the edge of Ka ...
File:Fes - Gate.jpg,
Bab Guissa Bab Guissa or Bab Gisa ( or ) is the main northwestern gate of Fes el Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. History A gate by this name had existed in this part of the city walls since at least the 11th century. That gate was named after a ...
File:Bab Ftouh.jpg,
Bab Ftouh Bab Ftouh (also spelled Bab Fetouh) is the main southeastern gate of Fes el-Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. History The name ''Bab (al-)Ftouh'' means literally "Gate of the Opening", but historically this name (also used for Bab ...
File:Fes - Palau Reial - Bab El Seba des N.JPG,
Bab Dekkakin Bab Dekkakin or Bab Dekakene () is a fortified and ceremonial gate in Fes, Morocco. The gate is situated between the Old Mechouar (or ''Vieux Méchouar'') and the New Mechouar (or ''Nouveau Méchouar'') on the northern edge of Fes el-Jdid. ...
(Bab es-Sebaa) File:Bab Semmarine Fez Morocco - panoramio.jpg,
Bab Semmarine Bab Semmarine () is the monumental southern gate of Fes el-Jdid, a part of the old city of Fez, Morocco. History The original gate at this location was initially called ''Bab 'Oyun Sanhaja'' ("Gate of the (water) Sources of the Sanhaja"). The ...
File:Fes Jdid gate.jpg,
Bab al-Amer Bab al-Amer () is one of the historic city gates of Fes, Morocco. It was the southwestern entrance to Fes el-Jdid, the royal city founded in 1276 by the Marinids west of Fes el Bali. History Fes el-Jdid was founded as a fortified administrat ...
File:Fes Bab Bou Jeloud 2011.jpg,
Bab Bou Jeloud Bab Bou Jeloud (also spelled Bab Boujeloud or Bab Boujloud) is an ornate city gate in Fes el Bali, the old city of Fez, Morocco. The current gate was built by the French colonial administration in 1913 to serve as the grand entrance to the old c ...


Forts and kasbahs

Along with the city walls and gates, several forts were constructed along the defensive perimeters of the medina during the different time periods. The city rapidly developed as the military garrison center of the region during the Almoravid era, in which the military operations were commanded and carried out to other North African regions and Southern Europe to the north, and Senegal river to the south. Subsequently, it led to the construction of numerous forts,
kasbah A kasbah (, also ; ar, قَـصَـبَـة, qaṣaba, lit=fortress, , Maghrebi Arabic: ), also spelled qasba, qasaba, or casbah, is a fortress, most commonly the citadel or fortified quarter of a city. It is also equivalent to the term ''alca ...
s, and towers for both garrison and defense. A "kasbah" in the context of
Maghrebi Maghrebi Arabic (, Western Arabic; as opposed to Eastern or Mashriqi Arabic) is a vernacular Arabic dialect continuum spoken in the Maghreb region, in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Western Sahara, and Mauritania. It includes Moroccan, Alger ...
region is the traditional military structure for fortification, military preparation, command and control. Some of them were occupied as well by citizens, certain tribal groups, and merchants. Throughout the history, 13 kasbahs were constructed surrounding the old city.نفائس فاس العتيقة : بناء 13 قصبة لأغراض عسكرية">نفائس فاس العتيقة : بناء 13 قصبة لأغراض عسكرية
''Assabah''. Retrieved January 11, 2018.
Among the most prominent among them is the
Kasbah An-Nouar The Kasbah An-Nouar or Kasbah Filali is a walled district and former military enclosure in the old medina of Fez, Morocco. Its name means "citadel of the flowers", but it is sometimes also referred to as Kasbah Filala and Kasbah Chorfa. It is one o ...
, located at the western or north-western tip of Fes el-Bali, which dates back to the Almohad era but was restored and repurposed under the Alaouites. Today, it is an example of a kasbah serving as a residential district much like the rest of the medina, with its own neighborhood mosque. The Kasbah Bou Jeloud, which no longer exists as a kasbah today, was once the governor's residence and stood near Bab Bou Jeloud, south of the Kasbah an-Nouar. It too had its own mosque, known as the
Bou Jeloud Mosque The Bou Jeloud Mosque is a historic Almohad-era mosque in the former Kasbah of Bou Jeloud, located near Bab Bou Jeloud, in Fes, Morocco. History The mosque was founded by the Almohad caliph Abu Yusuf Yaqub (al-Mansur), who ruled between 1184 ...
. Other kasbahs include the
Kasbah Tamdert Kasbah Tamdert is a fortress and kasbah in Fes, Morocco. It is located near Bab Ftouh in southern Fes el-Bali. History The kasbah was built in the 16th century on the orders of the Saadian sultan Muhammad al-Shaykh in 1549. The Saadians, who ...
, built by the
Saadis The Saadi Sultanate (also rendered in English as Sa'di, Sa'did, Sa'dian, or Saadian; ar, السعديون, translit=as-saʿdiyyūn) was a state which ruled present-day Morocco and parts of West Africa in the 16th and 17th centuries. It was l ...
near Bab Ftouh, and the
Kasbah Cherarda Kasbah Cherarda () is a kasbah in the city of Fez, Morocco, located on the northern outskirts of Fes el-Jdid. It was initially referred to as Kasbah el-Khemis, the "Thursday Fort" ( ar, قصبة الخمس) as there was an open market held every ...
, built by the
Alaouite The Alawi dynasty ( ar, سلالة العلويين الفيلاليين, translit=sulālat al-ʿalawiyyīn al-fīlāliyyīn) – also rendered in English as Alaouite, Alawid, or Alawite – is the current Moroccan royal family and reigning d ...
sultan Moulay al-Rashid just north of Fes Jdid. Kasbah Dar Debibagh is one of the newest kasbahs, built in 1729 during the Alaouite era at 2 km from the city wall in a strategic position. The Saadis also built a number of strong bastions in the late 16th century to assert their control over Fes, including notably the
Borj Nord Borj Nord or Burj al-Shamal (), Al-Burj ash-Shamali () is a fort in the city of Fez, Morocco. It was first established in 1582 by the Saadi dynasty, modeled after the Portuguese forts in the 16th century. It is among the largest defense structur ...
which is among the largest strictly military structures in the city and now refurbished as a military museum.البرج الشمالي">البرج الشمالي
''Museum with no Frontiers''. Retrieved January 22, 2018.
Its sister fort,
Borj Sud Borj Sud () is a fort in the city of Fez, Morocco. It was first established around 1582 by the Saadian dynasty, likely modeled after Portuguese forts of the time. It is located on the hills overlooking the old city ( Fes el-Bali) from the south, a ...
, is located on the hills to the south of the city. File:Kasbah Cherarda gate.jpg,
Kasbah Cherarda Kasbah Cherarda () is a kasbah in the city of Fez, Morocco, located on the northern outskirts of Fes el-Jdid. It was initially referred to as Kasbah el-Khemis, the "Thursday Fort" ( ar, قصبة الخمس) as there was an open market held every ...
File:Kasbah Cherarda(js).jpg,
Borj Nord Borj Nord or Burj al-Shamal (), Al-Burj ash-Shamali () is a fort in the city of Fez, Morocco. It was first established in 1582 by the Saadi dynasty, modeled after the Portuguese forts in the 16th century. It is among the largest defense structur ...
File:Borj sud1.jpg,
Borj Sud Borj Sud () is a fort in the city of Fez, Morocco. It was first established around 1582 by the Saadian dynasty, likely modeled after Portuguese forts of the time. It is located on the hills overlooking the old city ( Fes el-Bali) from the south, a ...
File:Ruína (6330584112).jpg, Borj Sheikh Ahmed


Bridges

The Oued Bou Khrareb (part of the Oued Fes), which divides the northwestern and southeastern shores of Fes el-Bali, is crossed by several historic bridges, some of which were first built before the unification of the two shores into a single city in the 11th century. There were once at least six bridges, reportedly built by the Zenata emir Dunas ibn Hamama in the early 11th century, before the unification of the two cities by the Almoravids later in the same century. Other scholarly sources, however, attribute at least some of the bridges to the Almoravid period (late 11th to early 12th centuries) when the two early cities of Fes were unified. Many of them were destroyed in subsequent floods in the early 14th century, and only some of them were rebuilt by the Marinid Sultan Abu Sa'id at the time. Of the bridges that remain today, the ''Qantrat Bin el-Moudoun'' ("Bridge Between the Two Cities") is the northernmost of them, followed to the south by the ''Qantrat Sebbaghin'' ("Bridge of the Tanners") and by the ''Qantrat Terrafin'' ("Bridge of the Cobblers") just north of Place R'cif. Another bridge, the Bridge of Sidi al-'Awwad, was located further south but likely disappeared during the 20th century when the river was covered by the modern paved road. The ''Bin el-Moudoun'' Bridge, believed to date from the time of Emir Dunas ibn Hamama, was considered one of the most picturesque, being located amidst a stretch of rocky
rapids Rapids are sections of a river where the river bed has a relatively steep gradient, causing an increase in water velocity and turbulence. Rapids are hydrological features between a ''run'' (a smoothly flowing part of a stream) and a ''cascade''. ...
. It has a span composed of three arches but only the central one is still visible today. The ''Sebbaghin'' Bridge, also known as the ''Khrashfiyin'' Bridge (or ''Khrachfiyine'' in the French transliteration), is believed to have been originally built by Emir Dunas and restored or rebuilt by the Marinids in the 14th century. The ''Terrafin'' bridge, originally named ''Qantrat Bab al-Silsila'' and now found on the northern edge of Place R'cif, is also believed to date initially from Emir Dunas in the 11th century. It is notable for having been lined with shops on both sides, a feature still partly visible in its structure today.


Water supply system

The environment of Fez was gifted with plentiful water from an array of small rivers and streams that feed the
Oued Fes The Oued Fes () or Fez River is a river in Morocco. It is a tributary of the Sebou River and historically the main source of water for the city of Fes, after which it is named. The river consists of a number of different streams which originate i ...
and flow through the old city. Fes el-Bali was supplied by a complex and extensive system of canals and water channels which distributed water across both shores of the city. The historic water network, which survives today, was begun by Zenata emir Dunas ibn Hamama between 1037 and 1049 and then further elaborated by the Almoravid emir
Yusuf ibn Tashfin Yusuf ibn Tashfin, also Tashafin, Teshufin, ( ar, يوسف بن تاشفين ناصر الدين بن تالاكاكين الصنهاجي , Yūsuf ibn Tāshfīn Naṣr al-Dīn ibn Tālākakīn al-Ṣanhājī ; reigned c. 1061 – 1106) was l ...
between 1069 (the Almoravid conquest of Fes) and 1106. Upstream from Fes el-Bali, the main river was also diverted and exploited for the creation of Fes el-Jdid during the Marinid period. A large number of
waterwheels A water wheel is a machine for converting the energy of flowing or falling water into useful forms of power, often in a watermill. A water wheel consists of a wheel (usually constructed from wood or metal), with a number of blades or buckets ...
(known as ''
noria A noria ( ar, ناعورة, ''nā‘ūra'', plural ''nawāʿīr'', from syr, ܢܥܘܪܐ, ''nā‘orā'', lit. "growler") is a hydropowered ''scoop wheel'' used to lift water into a small aqueduct (water supply), aqueduct, either for the purpos ...
''s, or sometimes '' saqiyya''s) were located throughout the city's water network in order to assist in water distribution or to power certain industries. Some of these were very large, such as the huge noria which supplied the Marinid royal gardens of Mosara, measuring 26 meters in diameter and 2 meters in thickness. Only a few of these waterwheels have survived in some form, including some examples around the Jnan Sbil Gardens.


List of notable historic monuments


Religious structures

Mosques: * Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque * Al-Andalusiyyin Mosque *
Zawiya of Moulay Idris II The Zawiya of Moulay Idris II is a '' zawiya'' (an Islamic shrine and religious complex, also spelled ''zaouia'') in Fez, Morocco. It contains the tomb of Idris II (or Moulay Idris II when including his sharifian title), who ruled Morocco from 8 ...
* Al-Anouar Mosque (Mosque of the Sheikhs) *
Chrabliyine Mosque The Chrabliyine Mosque (; also transliterated as ''Shirabliyyin, Cherabliyine,'' etc.) is a Marinid-era mosque in Fez, Morocco. History The mosque was founded in the 14th century during the Marinid period. Although the exact date and patron of ...
*
Bab Guissa Mosque The Bab Guissa Mosque () is a medieval mosque in northern Fes el-Bali, the old city of Fez, Morocco. It is located next to the city gate of the same name, and also features an adjoining madrasa. History Based on an inscription on one of its ...
*
R'cif Mosque The R'cif Mosque (; also transliterated as ''R'sif'', ''Ercif'', ''er-Rsif'', or ''Rasif'') is a Jama Masjid, Friday mosque in Fes el Bali, Fes el-Bali, the old city (Medina quarter, medina) of Fez, Morocco, Fez, Morocco. It has one of the tallest ...
*
Bou Jeloud Mosque The Bou Jeloud Mosque is a historic Almohad-era mosque in the former Kasbah of Bou Jeloud, located near Bab Bou Jeloud, in Fes, Morocco. History The mosque was founded by the Almohad caliph Abu Yusuf Yaqub (al-Mansur), who ruled between 1184 ...
*
Abu al-Hassan Mosque The Mosque of Abu al-Hasan is a historic neighbourhood mosque in Fes el Bali, Fes el-Bali, the old ''Medina quarter, medina'' of Fez, Morocco, Fes, Morocco. It is located on Tala'a Seghira street, near the Bou Inania Madrasa. History The mosque ...
* Mosque of the Kasbah an-Nouar * Diwan Mosque * el-Oued Mosque * Ain al-Kheil Mosque *
Grand Mosque of Fes el-Jdid The Great Mosque of Fes el-Jdid is the historic main Friday mosque of Fes el-Jdid, the royal city and Marinid-era citadel of Fes, Morocco. It is believed to have been founded in 1276, around the same time that the city itself was founded, making ...
*
Moulay Abdallah Mosque The Moulay Abdallah Mosque or Mosque of Moulay Abdallah is a major mosque and royal necropolis complex situated in the center of the Moulay Abdallah district in Fes el-Jdid, the historic palace-city and citadel in Fes, Morocco. It was founded b ...
*
Al-Hamra Mosque The al-Hamra Mosque or Red Mosque (, ) is a Marinid Sultanate, Marinid-era mosque in Fez, Morocco, Fes, Morocco. It is a local Jama masjid, Friday mosque located on the Grande Rue ("Great Street") of Fes Jdid, Fes el-Jdid, the palace-city founded ...
* Al-Beida Mosque *
Lalla ez-Zhar Mosque The Lalla ez-Zhar Mosque (), or al-Zahr Mosque, is a mosque located in Fes el-Jdid in the historic old city of Fez, Morocco. It is also known by the name ''Jama’ el-Hajjar'' (“Mosque of Stone”), probably in reference to its stone portal ent ...
*
Lalla Ghriba Mosque The Lalla Ghriba Mosque is one of the main neighbourhood mosques of Fes el-Jdid, a part of the historic medina of Fes, Morocco. The mosque was founded in 1408, under the reign of the Marinid sultan Abu Sa'id Uthman III. The surrounding Lalla Gh ...
Synagogues: *
Ibn Danan Synagogue The Ibn Danan Synagogue ( ar, معبد ابن دنان, he, בית הכנסת אבן דאנן) is a synagogue in Fes, Morocco, dating from the 17th century. It was built by Mimoun Ben Sidan, a wealthy merchant from the town of Ait Ishaq. The syn ...
* Slat al Fassiyin Synagogue Madrasas: *
Saffarin Madrasa ) , image=Place es Seffarine (588955430).jpg , caption=A part of the madrasa courtyard , location=Fez, Morocco , coordinates= , geo= , religious_affiliation=Islam , rite= , sect = Sunni , region= , province= , district= , consecration_year= , status ...
*
Sahrij Madrasa Sahrij Madrasa or Madrasa al-Sahrij (sometimes also Sihrij Madrasa) () is a madrasa in Fez, Morocco. The madrasa is located inside Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter of the city. The madrasa dates back to the 14th century during the golden age of ...
*
Sba'iyyin Madrasa The Sba'iyyin Madrasa or Madrasa as-Sba'iyyin (also spelled Sbaiyin or Sebaaiyyine; ) is a historic madrasa in the medina of Fes, Morocco. It is located in the Andalous quarter of Fes el-Bali, next to the al-Andalus Mosque. It was founded in 132 ...
*
Al-Attarine Madrasa The Al-Attarine Madrasa or Medersa al-Attarine () is a madrasa in Fes, Morocco, near the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque. It was built by the Marinid sultan Uthman II Abu Said (r. 1310-1331) in 1323-5. The madrasa takes its name from the Souk al-Attarine ...
*
Mesbahiyya Madrasa Mesbahiyya Madrasa ( ar, المدرسة المصباحية) is a madrasa in Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter in the city of Fez, Morocco. The madrasa was completed in 1346, during the Marinid period, under the patronage of the Marinid sultan A ...
*
Bou Inania Madrasa The Madrasa Bou Inania (; ) is a madrasa in Fes, Morocco, built in 1350–55 CE by Abu Inan Faris. It is the only madrasa in Morocco which also functioned as a congregational mosque. It is widely acknowledged as a high point of Marinid architect ...
*
Cherratine Madrasa Cherratine Madrasa () is an Islamic school or madrasa that was built in 1670 by the Alaouite Sultan Moulay al-Rashid. It is located in the city of Fez in Morocco. The madrasa is also called Er-Rachidia Madrasa or Ras al-Cherratine Madrasa. Hi ...
* Madrasa Fes el-Jdid (Madrasa Dar al-Makhzen) * Madrasa el-Oued * Madrasa Muhammadiyya (Madrasa Mohammadia) Zawiyas and mausoleums: *
Zawiya of Moulay Idris II The Zawiya of Moulay Idris II is a '' zawiya'' (an Islamic shrine and religious complex, also spelled ''zaouia'') in Fez, Morocco. It contains the tomb of Idris II (or Moulay Idris II when including his sharifian title), who ruled Morocco from 8 ...
*
Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani The Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani, or Zawiya Tijaniya Al Koubra, () is a zawiya, an Islamic religious complex building for education and commemoration, in Fez, Morocco. The building is located inside Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter of the ci ...
*
Zawiya of Sidi Abdelkader al-Fassi The Zawiya of Sidi Abdelkader al-Fassi, also known as the Zawiya al-Fassiya, is historically one of the most important zawiyas (religious complex and Sufi sanctuary) in Fes, Morocco. It is named after Sidi Abdelkader al-Fassi (also spelled ''Abd ...
*
Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed esh-Shawi Zawiya (institution) is an Islamic religious school or monastery. Zawiya, Zawiyah, Zawia, Zaouia, Zaouiet and similar terms may also refer to: Places Algeria * Aïn Zaouia, an Algerian town * Mazer Zaouia, an Algerian village * Zaouia El Abidia, ...
*
Zawiya of Sidi Taoudi Ben Souda The Zawiya of Sidi Taoudi Ben Souda (also spelled Zawiya of Sidi Tawdi ibn Suda) is a zawiya (religious complex) and mosque in Fes el-Bali, the old medina of Fes, Morocco. It is named after Muḥammad al-Tāwdī Ibn al-Ṭālib Ibn Sūda al-Mu ...
* Zawiya of Sidi Ali Boughaleb *
Marabout of Sidi Harazem The Marabout or Mausoleum of Sidi Harazem is a funerary monument and shrine in Fez, Morocco. It is located in the Bab Ftouh Cemetery, one of the city's largest historic cemeteries. It contains the tomb of Sidi 'Ali ibn Harazem (also spelled Har ...
*
Marinid Tombs The Marinid Tombs or Merenid Tombs are a set of ruined monumental tombs on a hill above and north of Fes al-Bali, the old city of Fez, Morocco. They were originally a royal necropolis for the Marinid dynasty which ruled over Morocco in the 13th ...
(ruined)


Civic and commercial structures

Funduqs (caravanserais): *
Funduq al-Najjariyyin Funduq al-Najjarin ( ar, فندق النجارين, lit=Inn of the carpenters) (also spelled ''Fondouk (el-)Nejjarine'') is a historic ''funduq'' (a caravanserai or traditional inn) in Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter in the city of Fez, Moroc ...
* Funduq Staouniyyin (Funduq al-Tetwaniyyin) *
Funduq Sagha Funduq Sagha () (also spelled ''Fondouk Sagha'') is a historic ''funduq'' (a caravanserai or traditional inn) in Fes el Bali, the old medina quarter in the city of Fez, Morocco. History The funduq was built in 1711 CE (1123 AH) during the r ...
* Funduq al-Shamma'in & Funduq Sbitriyyin * Funduq Barka * Funduq Kettanin Tanneries: *
Chouara Tannery Chouara Tannery (sometimes spelled Chouwara) is one of the three tanneries in the city of Fez, Morocco. It is the largest tannery in the city and one of the oldest. It is located in Fes el Bali, the oldest medina quarter of the city, near the Saffa ...
*
Sidi Moussa Tannery The Sidi Moussa Tannery or Guerniz Tannery is a historic tanning facility located in the heart of Fes el-Bali, the historic ''medina'' of Fez, Morocco. The tannery is located in the Guerniz neighbourhood, near the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II and the ...
* Ain Azliten Tannery Hammams (bathhouses): * Hammam Ben Abbad *
Hammam al-Mokhfiya Hammam al-Mokhfiya (also spelled Mukhfiyya or Makhfia) is a historic hammam (bathhouse) in the medina (old city) of Fes, Morocco. It is located in the neighbourhood of the same name (al-Mokhfiya), south of Place R'cif. Based on its similarities in ...
*
Hammam Saffarin The Hammam as-Saffarin (or Saffarin Hammam, Hammam Seffarine, etc.) is a historic hammam (bathhouse) in the medina (old city) of Fes, Morocco. It is located on the southwest side of Place Seffarine, across from the Madrasa Saffarin and south of t ...


Fortifications

Walls: *
City walls A defensive wall is a fortification usually used to protect a city, town or other settlement from potential aggressors. The walls can range from simple palisades or earthworks to extensive military fortifications with towers, bastions and gates ...
Forts: *
Borj Nord Borj Nord or Burj al-Shamal (), Al-Burj ash-Shamali () is a fort in the city of Fez, Morocco. It was first established in 1582 by the Saadi dynasty, modeled after the Portuguese forts in the 16th century. It is among the largest defense structur ...
*
Borj Sud Borj Sud () is a fort in the city of Fez, Morocco. It was first established around 1582 by the Saadian dynasty, likely modeled after Portuguese forts of the time. It is located on the hills overlooking the old city ( Fes el-Bali) from the south, a ...
*
Kasbah An-Nouar The Kasbah An-Nouar or Kasbah Filali is a walled district and former military enclosure in the old medina of Fez, Morocco. Its name means "citadel of the flowers", but it is sometimes also referred to as Kasbah Filala and Kasbah Chorfa. It is one o ...
*
Kasbah Cherarda Kasbah Cherarda () is a kasbah in the city of Fez, Morocco, located on the northern outskirts of Fes el-Jdid. It was initially referred to as Kasbah el-Khemis, the "Thursday Fort" ( ar, قصبة الخمس) as there was an open market held every ...
*
Kasbah Tamdert Kasbah Tamdert is a fortress and kasbah in Fes, Morocco. It is located near Bab Ftouh in southern Fes el-Bali. History The kasbah was built in the 16th century on the orders of the Saadian sultan Muhammad al-Shaykh in 1549. The Saadians, who ...
* Dar Debibagh *Borj Sheikh Ahmed, Borj Twil, and Borj Sidi Bou Nafa' (Saadian bastions in the eastern and southeastern wall of Fes Jdid) City gates: *
Bab al-Amer Bab al-Amer () is one of the historic city gates of Fes, Morocco. It was the southwestern entrance to Fes el-Jdid, the royal city founded in 1276 by the Marinids west of Fes el Bali. History Fes el-Jdid was founded as a fortified administrat ...
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Bab Bou Jeloud Bab Bou Jeloud (also spelled Bab Boujeloud or Bab Boujloud) is an ornate city gate in Fes el Bali, the old city of Fez, Morocco. The current gate was built by the French colonial administration in 1913 to serve as the grand entrance to the old c ...
* Bab Dekkakin (Bab es-Sebaa) *
Bab Ftouh Bab Ftouh (also spelled Bab Fetouh) is the main southeastern gate of Fes el-Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. History The name ''Bab (al-)Ftouh'' means literally "Gate of the Opening", but historically this name (also used for Bab ...
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Bab Guissa Bab Guissa or Bab Gisa ( or ) is the main northwestern gate of Fes el Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. History A gate by this name had existed in this part of the city walls since at least the 11th century. That gate was named after a ...
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Bab Mahrouk Bab Mahrouk, also spelled Bab Mahruq, ( ) is historically the main western city gate of Fes el Bali, the old walled city of Fes, Morocco. The gate dates from 1204 and is located on the northwestern corner of Place Bou Jeloud, near the edge of Ka ...
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Bab Semmarine Bab Semmarine () is the monumental southern gate of Fes el-Jdid, a part of the old city of Fez, Morocco. History The original gate at this location was initially called ''Bab 'Oyun Sanhaja'' ("Gate of the (water) Sources of the Sanhaja"). The ...
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Bab Segma Bab Segma () was a former Marinid Sultanate, Marinid Gates of Fez, gate in Fez, Morocco, Fes, Morocco. It was located north of Fes Jdid, Fes el-Jdid and was built in 1286 as a part of the Mosara Garden, Marinid royal gardens located there. The to ...


Palaces and historic houses

* Dar al-Makhzen (Royal Palace) *
Dar Batha Dar Batḥa ( ar, دار البطحاء, pronounced ''Bat-ḥaa''), or Qasr al-Batḥa ( ar, قصر البطحاء), is a former royal palace in the city of Fez, Morocco. The palace was commissioned by the Alaouite Sultan Hassan I in the late 19th ...
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Mnebhi Palace The Mnebhi Palace or Menebhi Palace (), also known by its French name ''Palais Mnebhi'', is a historic early 20th-century palace in Fes el-Bali, the old medina of Fes, Morocco. It is notable for both its lavish architecture as well as for being ...
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Dar Adiyel Dar Adiyel or Dar 'Adiyil is a historic mansion in Fes el-Bali, the old medina of Fes, Morocco. It is located in the Zqaq el-Bghal neighbourhood, a short distance south from Tala'a Seghira street. History The exact date of the house's constr ...
* Dar Ba Mohammed Chergui * Dar Belghazi *
Dar Glaoui Dar Glaoui or Glaoui Palace (sometimes called by its French name, ''Palais Glaoui'') is a late 19th-century and early 20th-century palace in Fez, Morocco. It was originally constructed and owned by Thami El Glaoui, the pasha of Marrakesh at the ...
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Dar Moqri Dar Moqri (also spelled Dar al-Moqri or Dar Mokri) is a historic palace or group of mansions in Fes el-Bali, the old medina of Fes, Morocco. It dates from the late 19th and early 20th centuries and was built by the wealthy and powerful Moqri fam ...
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Jamai Palace The Jamai Palace, also known as the Dar Jama'i or the Palais Jamaï (), is a historic late 19th-century mansion in Fes, Morocco, which was subsequently converted to a luxury hotel. It is near Bab Guissa in Fes el-Bali. History The oldest pavi ...


Other landmarks

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Dar al-Magana Dar al-Magana () is a 14th-century building in Fes, Morocco, built by the Marinid Sultan Abu Inan Faris which houses a weight-powered water clock. It is located opposite the Bou Inania Madrasa on Tala'a Kebira street and was created to serve that ...
(Water clock) *
Maristan of Sidi Frej The Maristan of Sidi Frej or Maristan of Fez was a historic maristan in Fez, Morocco. It was founded by the Marinids in the 13th century and functioned as a hospital and as a hospice for the destitute and mentally ill up until the 20th century. I ...
(historic hospital) *
Kissariat al-Kifah The Kissariat al-Kifah () or Kissaria () is the historic central bazaar of Fes el-Bali, the historic old city of Fez, Morocco. It is located between the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II and the Qarawiyyin Mosque. The Kissaria (a term also used in oth ...
(bazaar) *
Borj Neffara The Borj Neffara ( , "Tower of the Trumpeters") is a historic observation tower and landmark near the Qarawiyyin Mosque in Fes el-Bali, the old city of Fes, Morocco. It is also referred to as the '' Dar al-Muwaqqit'' (not to be confused with an ...
(observation tower) *
Dar al-Makina The Dar al-Makina () is a former arms factory in Fes, Morocco. History The Dar al-Makina (an Arabic adaptation of the word "machine") was established by Sultan Moulay Hassan in 1885–86 with the help of Italian officers. The northern gate of t ...
(19th-century arms factory) *
Jnan Sbil Gardens The Jnan Sbil Gardens (; also spelled Jnane Sbile from the French transliteration), also known as the Bou Jeloud Gardens, is public garden in Fez, Morocco, located between Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali, the two sections of the old medina. Hist ...
* Bridges of the Oued Bou Khrareb


References


Further reading

* Salmon, Xavier (2021). ''Fès mérinide: Une capitale pour les arts, 1276-1465''. Lienart. (in French) – Extensive information and photography of Marinid-period architecture in Fez and other cities


External links


''Restauration 27 Monuments Historiques dans la Médina de Fès''
(captions in French) – YouTube video montage showing 27 historic monuments before and after recent restorations, including images of lesser-known buildings *'
Quelques ouvrages d'architecture d'importance sous le Protectorat à Fès
'' (text in French) – Photos and information for historic Protectorate-era buildings in the ''Ville Nouvelle'' {{Fes Architecture in Morocco Fez, Morocco Buildings and structures in Fez, Morocco Tourist attractions in Fez, Morocco