Tāmaki Isthmus
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The Auckland isthmus, also known as the Tāmaki isthmus, is a narrow stretch of land on the
North Island The North Island, also officially named Te Ika-a-Māui, is one of the two main islands of New Zealand, separated from the larger but much less populous South Island by the Cook Strait. The island's area is , making it the world's 14th-largest ...
of New Zealand in the
Auckland Region Auckland () is one of the sixteen regions of New Zealand, which takes its name from the eponymous urban area. The region encompasses the Auckland Metropolitan Area, smaller towns, rural areas, and the islands of the Hauraki Gulf. Containing ...
, and the location of the central suburbs of the city of
Auckland Auckland (pronounced ) ( mi, Tāmaki Makaurau) is a large metropolitan city in the North Island of New Zealand. The List of New Zealand urban areas by population, most populous urban area in the country and the List of cities in Oceania by po ...
, including the CBD. The
isthmus An isthmus (; ; ) is a narrow piece of land connecting two larger areas across an expanse of water by which they are otherwise separated. A tombolo is an isthmus that consists of a spit or bar, and a strait is the sea counterpart of an isthmu ...
is located between two
ria A ria (; gl, ría) is a coastal inlet formed by the partial submergence of an unglaciated river valley. It is a drowned river valley that remains open to the sea. Definitions Typically rias have a Drainage system (geomorphology)#Dendritic dr ...
s (drowned river valleys), the
Waitematā Harbour Waitematā Harbour is the main access by sea to Auckland, New Zealand. For this reason it is often referred to as Auckland Harbour, despite the fact that it is one of two harbours adjoining the city. The harbour forms the northern and easter ...
to the north, which opens to the
Hauraki Gulf / Tīkapa Moana The Hauraki Gulf / Tīkapa Moana is a coastal feature of the North Island of New Zealand. It has an area of 4000 km2,Pacific Ocean The Pacific Ocean is the largest and deepest of Earth's five oceanic divisions. It extends from the Arctic Ocean in the north to the Southern Ocean (or, depending on definition, to Antarctica) in the south, and is bounded by the continen ...
, and the
Manukau Harbour The Manukau Harbour is the second largest natural harbour in New Zealand by area. It is located to the southwest of the Auckland isthmus, and opens out into the Tasman Sea. Geography The harbour mouth is between the northern head ("Burne ...
to the south, which opens to the
Tasman Sea The Tasman Sea (Māori: ''Te Tai-o-Rēhua'', ) is a marginal sea of the South Pacific Ocean, situated between Australia and New Zealand. It measures about across and about from north to south. The sea was named after the Dutch explorer Abe ...
. The isthmus is the most southern section of the
Northland Peninsula The Northland Peninsula, called the North Auckland Peninsula in earlier times, is in the far north of the North Island of New Zealand. It is joined to the rest of the island by the Auckland isthmus, a narrow piece of land between the Waitematā H ...
. The Auckland isthmus is bound on the eastern side by the
Tāmaki River The Tāmaki River or Tāmaki Estuary is mostly an estuarial arm and harbour of the Hauraki Gulf, within the city of Auckland in New Zealand.
and by the
Whau River The Whau River is an estuarial arm of the southwestern Waitemata Harbour (rather than a river) within the Auckland metropolitan area in New Zealand. It flows north for from its origin at the confluence of the Avondale Stream and Whau Stream to ...
on the west; two tidal estuaries of the Waitematā Harbour. These were used as
portage Portage or portaging (Canada: ; ) is the practice of carrying water craft or cargo over land, either around an obstacle in a river, or between two bodies of water. A path where items are regularly carried between bodies of water is also called a ...
s by early
Māori migration canoes Various Māori traditions recount how their ancestors set out from their homeland in ''waka hourua'', large twin-hulled ocean-going canoes (''waka''). Some of these traditions name a mythical homeland called Hawaiki. Among these is the story of ...
and
Tāmaki Māori Tāmaki Māori are Māori ''iwi'' and ''hapū'' (tribes and sub-tribes) who have a strong connection to Tāmaki Makaurau (the Auckland Region), and whose rohe was traditionally within the region. Among Ngā Mana Whenua o Tāmaki Makaurau (the M ...
to cross the isthmus (the Tāmaki River crossing known as Te Tō Waka, and the Whau River as Te Tōangawaka). Through early European settler history, canals were variously considered at either portage, however by the 1910s these projects were abandoned. The isthmus was the centre of the
Waiohua Te Waiohua or Te Wai-o-Hua is a Māori iwi (tribe) confederation that thrived in the early 18th century. The iwi's rohe (tribal area) was primarily the central Tāmaki Makaurau area (the Auckland isthmus) and the Māngere peninsula, until the 17 ...
confederation of
iwi Iwi () are the largest social units in New Zealand Māori society. In Māori roughly means "people" or "nation", and is often translated as "tribe", or "a confederation of tribes". The word is both singular and plural in the Māori language, an ...
in the 17th and early 18th centuries, who centred life around elaborate fortified
The word pā (; often spelled pa in English) can refer to any Māori village or defensive settlement, but often refers to hillforts – fortified settlements with palisades and defensive terraces – and also to fortified villages. Pā sites o ...
of
Maungawhau / Mount Eden Maungawhau / Mount Eden is a scoria cone and Tūpuna Maunga (ancestral mountain) in the Mount Eden suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. Geography The cone is a dormant volcano and its summit, at above sea level, is the highest natural point on the ...
and
Maungakiekie / One Tree Hill Maungakiekie / One Tree Hill is a volcano, volcanic peak and Tūpuna Maunga o Tāmaki Makaurau, Tūpuna Maunga (ancestral mountain) in Auckland, New Zealand. It is an important place culturally and archeologically for both Māori people, Māor ...
. After the defeat of paramount chief
Kiwi Tāmaki Kiwi Tāmaki (died ) was a Māori warrior and paramount chief of the Waiohua confederation in Tāmaki Makaurau (modern-day Auckland isthmus). The third generation paramount chief of Waiohua, Kiwi Tāmaki consolidated and extended Waiohua power ...
circa 1740, the isthmus became the
rohe The Māori people of New Zealand use the word ''rohe'' to describe the territory or boundaries of ''iwi'' (tribes), although some divide their rohe into several ''takiwā''. The areas shown on the map (right) are indicative only, and some iwi ...
of
Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei or Ngāti Whātua-o-Ōrākei is an Auckland-based Māori hapū (sub-tribe) in New Zealand. Together with Te Uri-o-Hau, Te Roroa and Te Taoū, it comprises the iwi (tribe) of Ngāti Whātua. These four hapū can act togethe ...
. In 1840, European settlers established the town of
Auckland Auckland (pronounced ) ( mi, Tāmaki Makaurau) is a large metropolitan city in the North Island of New Zealand. The List of New Zealand urban areas by population, most populous urban area in the country and the List of cities in Oceania by po ...
on the Waitematā Harbour, followed shortly after by the
fencible The Fencibles (from the word ''defencible'') were British regiments raised in the United Kingdom, Isle of Man and in the colonies for defence against the threat of invasion during the Seven Years' War, the American War of Independence, the Frenc ...
towns of
Onehunga Onehunga is a suburb of Auckland in New Zealand and the location of the Port of Onehunga, the city's small port on the Manukau Harbour. It is south of the Auckland CBD, city centre, close to the volcano, volcanic cone of Maungakiekie / One Tree ...
,
Ōtāhuhu Ōtāhuhu is a suburb of Auckland, New Zealand – to the southeast of the CBD, on a narrow isthmus between an arm of the Manukau Harbour to the west and the Tamaki River estuary to the east. The isthmus is the narrowest connection between the ...
and Panmure. The city developed outwards from the
Port of Auckland Ports of Auckland Limited (POAL), the successor to the Auckland Harbour Board, is the Auckland Council-owned company administering Auckland's commercial freight and cruise ship harbour facilities. As the company operates all of the associated fa ...
, and by the mid-20th century the isthmus was almost completely urbanised. Originally organised as a variety of fractured land boards, boroughs and cities, the entire isthmus was amalgamated into a single
local authority Local government is a generic term for the lowest tiers of public administration within a particular sovereign state. This particular usage of the word government refers specifically to a level of administration that is both geographically-loca ...
called
Auckland City Auckland City was a territorial authority with city status covering the central isthmus of the urban area of Auckland, New Zealand. It was governed by the Auckland City Council from 1989 to 2010, and as a territory within the wider Auckland R ...
during the
1989 New Zealand local government reforms The 1989 New Zealand local government reform was the most significant reform of local government in New Zealand in over a century. Some 850 local bodies were amalgamated into 86 local authorities, made up of regional and territorial levels. Backg ...
, which lasted until the 2010 unification of all local government in the
Auckland Region Auckland () is one of the sixteen regions of New Zealand, which takes its name from the eponymous urban area. The region encompasses the Auckland Metropolitan Area, smaller towns, rural areas, and the islands of the Hauraki Gulf. Containing ...
to create the
Auckland Council Auckland Council ( mi, Te Kaunihera o Tāmaki Makaurau) is the local government council for the Auckland Region in New Zealand. It is a territorial authority that has the responsibilities, duties and powers of a regional council and so is ...
. Since European colonisation of the region, the isthmus has seen major changes in landscape and infrastructure, including quarrying of
scoria Scoria is a pyroclastic, highly vesicular, dark-colored volcanic rock that was ejected from a volcano as a molten blob and cooled in the air to form discrete grains or clasts.Neuendorf, K.K.E., J.P. Mehl, Jr., and J.A. Jackson, eds. (2005) ''G ...
cones in the
Auckland volcanic field The Auckland volcanic field is an area of monogenetic volcanoes covered by much of the metropolitan area of Auckland, New Zealand's largest city, located in the North Island. The approximately 53 volcanoes in the field have produced a diverse a ...
, the draining of swamps and wetlands for farmland and housing and
land reclamation Land reclamation, usually known as reclamation, and also known as land fill (not to be confused with a waste landfill), is the process of creating new land from oceans, seas, riverbeds or lake beds. The land reclaimed is known as reclamati ...
on the
Auckland waterfront The Auckland waterfront (rarely the Auckland harbourfront) is a city-side stretch of the southern Waitematā Harbour coastline in Auckland, New Zealand. Previously mostly dominated by Ports of Auckland uses, from the 2000s on it is becoming i ...
. Large-scale infrastructure projects, including the
rail network Rail transport (also known as train transport) is a means of transport that transfers passengers and goods on wheeled vehicles running on rails, which are incorporated in tracks. In contrast to road transport, where the vehicles run on a prep ...
in the 1870s, the Auckland Motorways from the 1950s, and bridges (most notably the
Auckland Harbour Bridge The Auckland Harbour Bridge is an eight-lane motorway bridge over the Waitematā Harbour in Auckland, New Zealand. It joins St Marys Bay on the Auckland city side with Northcote on the North Shore side. It is part of State Highway 1 and the ...
, opening in 1959 and connecting the isthmus to the North Shore), have fueled population growth and suburban sprawl, both on the isthmus and in the greater Auckland Region.


Geological history

The isthmus is formed from sections of
Early Miocene The Early Miocene (also known as Lower Miocene) is a sub-epoch of the Miocene Epoch made up of two stages: the Aquitanian and Burdigalian stages. The sub-epoch lasted from 23.03 ± 0.05 Ma to 15.97 ± 0.05 Ma (million years ago). It was prece ...
Waitemata Group The Waitemata Group is an Early Miocene geologic group that is exposed in and around the Auckland Region of New Zealand, between the Whangarei Harbour in the North and the Raglan Harbour in the South. The Group is predominantly composed of deep ...
marine sedimentary rock, with
Quaternary The Quaternary ( ) is the current and most recent of the three periods of the Cenozoic Era in the geologic time scale of the International Commission on Stratigraphy (ICS). It follows the Neogene Period and spans from 2.58 million years ...
volcanic rock from geologically recent volcanic eruptions and lava flows. Approximately 23 million years ago, tectonic forces between the
Pacific Plate The Pacific Plate is an oceanic tectonic plate that lies beneath the Pacific Ocean. At , it is the largest tectonic plate. The plate first came into existence 190 million years ago, at the triple junction between the Farallon, Phoenix, and Iza ...
and
Australian Plate The Australian Plate is a major tectonic plate in the eastern and, largely, southern hemispheres. Originally a part of the ancient continent of Gondwana, Australia remained connected to India and Antarctica until approximately when India broke ...
pushed the Auckland isthmus and surrounding areas to depths of 2,000-3,000 metres under sea-level. This formed a wide sedimentary basin, sheltered by the large
Waitākere Volcano Waitākere is a locality name in West Auckland, New Zealand. It most commonly refers to: *Waitākere, Auckland, a rural town north-west of Auckland *Waitakere City, a former territorial authority which existed from 1989 to 2010 *Waitākere Ranges, ...
to the west. The Waitemata Group sedimentary rocks were formed by eroding deposits from the
Northland Peninsula The Northland Peninsula, called the North Auckland Peninsula in earlier times, is in the far north of the North Island of New Zealand. It is joined to the rest of the island by the Auckland isthmus, a narrow piece of land between the Waitematā H ...
, then an uplifted island. As tectonic forces changed, the begin was uplifted approximately 17 million years ago. The isthmus in its current structure was formed at the end of the
Last Glacial Maximum The Last Glacial Maximum (LGM), also referred to as the Late Glacial Maximum, was the most recent time during the Last Glacial Period that ice sheets were at their greatest extent. Ice sheets covered much of Northern North America, Northern Eur ...
(known locally as the Ōtira Glaciation), between 12,000 and 7,000 years ago. As sea levels rose, the river valley to the north, which was carved through the
Miocene The Miocene ( ) is the first geological epoch of the Neogene Period and extends from about (Ma). The Miocene was named by Scottish geologist Charles Lyell; the name comes from the Greek words (', "less") and (', "new") and means "less recen ...
marine sediment Marine sediment, or ocean sediment, or seafloor sediment, are deposits of insoluble particles that have accumulated on the seafloor. These particles have their origins in soil and rocks and have been transported from the land to the sea, mainly ...
s of the Waitemata Group,
drowned Drowning is a type of suffocation induced by the submersion of the mouth and nose in a liquid. Most instances of fatal drowning occur alone or in situations where others present are either unaware of the victim's situation or unable to offer as ...
and became a tidal estuary, the
Waitematā Harbour Waitematā Harbour is the main access by sea to Auckland, New Zealand. For this reason it is often referred to as Auckland Harbour, despite the fact that it is one of two harbours adjoining the city. The harbour forms the northern and easter ...
. A similar process occurred on the
Manukau Harbour The Manukau Harbour is the second largest natural harbour in New Zealand by area. It is located to the southwest of the Auckland isthmus, and opens out into the Tasman Sea. Geography The harbour mouth is between the northern head ("Burne ...
to the south. During the Last Glacial Maximum, the modern isthmus was dominated by podocarp-angiosperm forest such as
kahikatea ''Dacrycarpus dacrydioides'', commonly known as kahikatea (from Māori) and white pine, is a coniferous tree endemic to New Zealand. A podocarp, it is New Zealand's tallest tree, gaining heights of 60 m and a life span of 600 years. It was firs ...
, ''
Prumnopitys taxifolia ''Prumnopitys taxifolia'', the mataī ( mi, mataī) or black pine, is an endemic New Zealand coniferous tree that grows on the North Island and South Island. It also occurs on Stewart Island/Rakiura (47 °S) but is uncommon there. It grows up ...
'' (matai) and tree ferns such as ''
Alsophila smithii ''Alsophila smithii'', synonym ''Cyathea smithii'', commonly known as the soft tree fern or kātote, is a species of tree fern from New Zealand. Distribution and ecology The species' natural distribution covers all major islands of New Zealand: ...
'' (kātote). As the area warmed, much of the podocarp forest was displaced by ''
Myrtaceae Myrtaceae, the myrtle family, is a family of dicotyledonous plants placed within the order Myrtales. Myrtle, pōhutukawa, bay rum tree, clove, guava, acca (feijoa), allspice, and eucalyptus are some notable members of this group. All speci ...
'' such as
pōhutukawa ''Metrosideros excelsa'', commonly known as pōhutukawa ( mi, pōhutukawa), New Zealand Christmas tree, New Zealand Christmas bush, and iron tree, is a coastal evergreen tree in the myrtle family, Myrtaceae, that produces a brilliant display o ...
and ''
Ascarina lucida ''Ascarina lucida'', commonly known as hutu is a species of small tree in the family Chloranthaceae. It is endemic to New Zealand, being common on the West Coast and Nelson regions of the South Island and more rarely found in the North Island. A ...
''. Prior to human settlement, much of the isthmus was covered in
broadleaf tree A broad-leaved, broad-leaf, or broadleaf tree is any tree within the diverse botanical group of angiosperms that has flat leaves and produces seeds inside of fruits. It is one of two general types of trees, the other being a conifer, a tree with n ...
forests, predominantly ''
Beilschmiedia tarairi ''Beilschmiedia tarairi'', commonly called taraire, is a tree of the family Lauraceae, endemic to the North Island of New Zealand. It is a common canopy tree in lowland forests north of Auckland, often growing in association with kauri (''Agat ...
'' (taraire) and ''
Vitex lucens ''Vitex lucens'', or pūriri, is an evergreen tree endemic to New Zealand. History Pūriri was first collected (by Europeans) at Tolaga Bay by Banks and Solander during Cook's first visit in 1769. The plant was excellently described by Solan ...
'' (puriri) trees. A large section of the
Auckland volcanic field The Auckland volcanic field is an area of monogenetic volcanoes covered by much of the metropolitan area of Auckland, New Zealand's largest city, located in the North Island. The approximately 53 volcanoes in the field have produced a diverse a ...
is found on the Auckland isthmus, including some of the most prominent basaltic tuff and scoria volcanoes:
Maungawhau / Mount Eden Maungawhau / Mount Eden is a scoria cone and Tūpuna Maunga (ancestral mountain) in the Mount Eden suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. Geography The cone is a dormant volcano and its summit, at above sea level, is the highest natural point on the ...
,
Maungakiekie / One Tree Hill Maungakiekie / One Tree Hill is a volcano, volcanic peak and Tūpuna Maunga o Tāmaki Makaurau, Tūpuna Maunga (ancestral mountain) in Auckland, New Zealand. It is an important place culturally and archeologically for both Māori people, Māor ...
,
Ōhinerau / Mount Hobson Ōhinerau / Mount Hobson (also known as ''Ōhinerangi'' and ''Remuwera'') is a 143 m high volcanic cone in the Auckland volcanic field in Auckland, New Zealand. Located in the Remuera suburb, to the east of the Newmarket commercial suburb, it ...
, Maungarei / Mount Wellington and
Ōwairaka / Mount Albert Ōwairaka / Mount Albert, also known as Te Ahi-kā-a-Rakataura, is a volcanic peak and Tūpuna Maunga (ancestral mountain) which dominates the landscape of the Owairaka and Mount Albert suburbs of Auckland. Etymology The main Māori name of ...
. Most of these volcanoes have erupted in the last 30,000 years, however the oldest identified volcanoes on the isthmus include
Albert Park Volcano The Albert Park Volcano was one of the volcanoes in the Auckland volcanic field in New Zealand. A small volcano that erupted approximately 145,000 years ago, the volcanic remnants were quarried during the early colonial history of Auckland be ...
and
Glover Park Glover Park is a neighborhood in northwest Washington, D.C., about a half mile north of Georgetown and just west of the United States Naval Observatory and Number One Observatory Circle (the Vice President's mansion). Every morning and evening, ...
, which are estimated to have erupted 145,000 and 161,000 years ago respectively). The volcanic activity caused much of the land on the isthmus to be formed from volcanic rock, such as the Te Kōpuke / Mount Saint John eruption (circa 28,000 years ago), which caused a lava flow crossing the isthmus and forming the
Meola Reef Meola Reef, or in Māori ('toka'='rock', 'roa'='long'), is a lava flow forming a reef peninsula across part of Auckland's Waitemata Harbour, New Zealand. The reef extends for over 2 kilometres across the harbour, to within 500 metres of Kauri ...
in the Waitematā Harbour. Volcanism has influenced the geography of the isthmus, creating unique forested areas and swamplands. Underneath much of the isthmus are lava caves formed from eruptions such as Maungawhau / Mount Eden (circa 28,000 years ago). Known as Ngā Ana Wai to
Tāmaki Māori Tāmaki Māori are Māori ''iwi'' and ''hapū'' (tribes and sub-tribes) who have a strong connection to Tāmaki Makaurau (the Auckland Region), and whose rohe was traditionally within the region. Among Ngā Mana Whenua o Tāmaki Makaurau (the M ...
, the caves fed fresh water into springs and swamps around
Sandringham Sandringham can refer to: Places * Sandringham, New South Wales, Australia * Sandringham, Queensland, Australia * Sandringham, Victoria, Australia **Sandringham railway line **Sandringham railway station **Electoral district of Sandringham * Sand ...
and Western Springs. The eruption of Maungarei / Mount Wellington (circa 10,000 years ago) blocked existing creeks on the isthmus and led to the formation of
Waiatarua Waiatarua is a small settlement near the top of the Waitākere Ranges in West Auckland, close to the junction of Scenic Drive, West Coast Road and Piha Road to Piha and runs east until the junction of Scenic Drive and Mountain Road. Surroun ...
, a former lake and current wetland reserve/golf-course in
Remuera Remuera is an affluent inner city suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. It is located four kilometres southeast of the city centre. Remuera is characterised by many large houses, often Edwardian or mid 20th century. A prime example of a "leafy" sub ...
/ Meadowbank. Low-lying swamps were predominantly vegetated with ''
Cordyline australis ''Cordyline australis'', commonly known as the cabbage tree, tī kōuka or cabbage-palm, is a widely branched monocot tree endemic to New Zealand. It grows up to tall with a stout trunk and sword-like leaves, which are clustered at the tips of ...
'' (cabbage tree / tī kōuka) and ''
Phormium tenax ''Phormium tenax'' (called flax in New Zealand English; in Māori; New Zealand flax outside New Zealand; and New Zealand hemp in historical nautical contexts) is an evergreen perennial plant native to New Zealand and Norfolk Island that is an i ...
'' (harakeke flax), and also formed behind beach deposits at the mouths of streams The volcanic eruptions led to the creation of the Epsom rock forest / Almorah rock forest, an ecosystem unique to the isthmus formed of trees such as ''
Meryta sinclairii ''Meryta sinclairii'', the puka or pukanui, is a large-leaved evergreen tree endemic to New Zealand that grows to about 8 m tall, with the distinctly tropical appearance typical of the genus. There are about 27 species of ''Meryta'', all small ...
'' (puka), ''
Litsea calicaris ''Litsea calicaris'', the mangeao, is an evergreen tree endemic to the North Island of New Zealand, occurring in lowland forest from near North Cape south to about 38°S. It belongs to the Laurel family, Lauraceae. Description Mangeao is t ...
'' (mangeao), ''
Alectryon excelsus ''Alectryon excelsus'', commonly known as tītoki, is a shiny-leaved tree native to New Zealand. It is in the family Sapindaceae. It lives in coastal and lowland forests throughout most of the North Island and from Banks Peninsula to central ...
'' (tītoki), ''
Melicytus ramiflorus ''Melicytus ramiflorus'' (māhoe or whiteywood) is a small tree of the family Violaceae endemic to New Zealand. It grows up to 10 metres high with a trunk up to 60 cm in diameter, it has smooth, whitish bark and brittle twigs. The dark- ...
'' (māhoe), ''
Piper excelsum ''Piper excelsum'' (formerly known as ''Macropiper excelsum''), of the Pepper Family (Piperaceae) commonly known as kawakawa, is a small tree to 20 feet (six meters)of which the subspecies ''P. excelsum'' subsp. ''excelsum'' is endemic to New ...
'' (kawakawa) and ''
Pseudopanax lessonii ''Pseudopanax lessonii'', or houpara, is a New Zealand native tree belonging to the family Araliaceae. Description Houpara is a shrub or tree up to 6 m tall, with stout branches. The leaves are crowded towards the tips of branchlets, and are 3- ...
'' (houpara) growing in a primarily in a rock and leaf
humus In classical soil science, humus is the dark organic matter in soil that is formed by the decomposition of plant and animal matter. It is a kind of soil organic matter. It is rich in nutrients and retains moisture in the soil. Humus is the Lati ...
environment, with minimal soil. The largest remaining area of native bush on the isthmus is the
Kepa Bush Reserve Kepa Bush Reserve is an ecological reserve on the Auckland isthmus in New Zealand, south of Mission Bay. It is situated near the smaller St John's Bush and is also known as the Pourewa Valley. Geology and biodiversity The Kepa Bush Reserve ...
at the edge of the Purewa Creek in southern Mission Bay, where
kohekohe Kohekohe (''Dysoxylum spectabile'') is a medium-sized tree in the Meliaceae family, native to New Zealand. It is found in lowland and coastal forests throughout most of the North Island and also occurs in the Marlborough Sounds in the north ...
trees dominate the old growth sections of the reserve. The isthmus is a part of the
Northland temperate kauri forests The Northland temperate kauri forests is an ecoregion in northern New Zealand, within the temperate broadleaf and mixed forests biome. Location and description This ecoregion covers the northern end of North Island. The landscape is flat when ...
ecoregion An ecoregion (ecological region) or ecozone (ecological zone) is an ecologically and geographically defined area that is smaller than a bioregion, which in turn is smaller than a biogeographic realm. Ecoregions cover relatively large areas of l ...
, Locally, the isthmus together with surrounding lowland areas and the North Shore as far north as
East Coast Bays East Coast Bays is a string of small suburbs that form the northernmost part of the North Shore, part of the contiguous Auckland metropolitan area in New Zealand. The suburbs line the north-east coast of the city along the shore of the Haurak ...
form the
Department of Conservation An environmental ministry is a national or subnational government agency politically responsible for the environment and/or natural resources. Various other names are commonly used to identify such agencies, such as Ministry of the Environment ...
's Tāmaki Ecological District. The western side of the isthmus serves as a border between the Western Northland and Hauraki-Auckland bioregions for
land snail A land snail is any of the numerous species of snail that live on land, as opposed to the sea snails and freshwater snails. ''Land snail'' is the common name for terrestrial gastropod mollusks that have shells (those without shells are known as ...
s. Due to the length of the Northland Peninsula, there are significant tidal differences between the two harbours that border the isthmus. After high tide reaches the Waitematā Harbour, it takes approximately 3.5 hours for high tide to reach the Manukau Harbour.


Human context


Māori history

The Auckland isthmus was an early location visited by many of the
Māori migration canoes Various Māori traditions recount how their ancestors set out from their homeland in ''waka hourua'', large twin-hulled ocean-going canoes (''waka''). Some of these traditions name a mythical homeland called Hawaiki. Among these is the story of ...
, including the ''
Matahourua In Māori tradition, ''Matahourua'' was the canoe of the legendary hero Kupe, who, in some accounts, was the discoverer of Aotearoa (New Zealand) (Craig 1989:161, Grey 1970:108, 161–3). See also *List of Māori waka A ''list'' is any set o ...
'', '' Aotea'', ''
Mātaatua ''Mātaatua'' was one of the great voyaging canoes by which Polynesians migrated to New Zealand, according to Māori tradition. Māori traditions say that the ''Mātaatua'' was initially sent from Hawaiki to bring supplies of kūmara to Māori ...
'', ''
Tainui Tainui is a tribal waka confederation of New Zealand Māori iwi. The Tainui confederation comprises four principal related Māori iwi of the central North Island of New Zealand: Hauraki, Ngāti Maniapoto, Ngāti Raukawa and Waikato. There are oth ...
'', ''
Tākitimu ''Tākitimu'' was a ''waka'' (canoe) with ''whakapapa'' throughout the Pacific particularly with Samoa, the Cook Islands, and New Zealand in ancient times. In several Māori traditions, the ''Tākitimu'' was one of the great Māori migration ...
'', '' Tokomaru'', ''
Te Wakatūwhenua In Māori mythology, Māori tradition, ''Te Wakatūwhenua'' was one of the great Māori migration canoes, ocean-going, voyaging canoes that were used in the migrations that settled New Zealand. ''Te Wakatūwhenua'' is said to have landed at Cape ...
'' and ''
Moekākara In Māori tradition, ''Moekākara'' was one of the great ocean-going, voyaging canoes that was used in the migrations that settled New Zealand. It was captained by Tāhuhunui-o-te-rangi, the ancestor of Ngāi Tāhuhu. The canoe first landed at ...
'' waka. The area was called ', meaning "Tāmaki desired by many", in reference to the desirability of its natural resources and geography.
Tāmaki Māori Tāmaki Māori are Māori ''iwi'' and ''hapū'' (tribes and sub-tribes) who have a strong connection to Tāmaki Makaurau (the Auckland Region), and whose rohe was traditionally within the region. Among Ngā Mana Whenua o Tāmaki Makaurau (the M ...
found the isthmus to be an important strategic location, due to the fertile soils and rich resources from the two harbours that bound the isthmus. Portages, where waka could be moved across the isthmus at its most narrow points, were important features of the isthmus for Tāmaki Māori. The most important of these was Te Tō Waka, at the modern location of Portage Road, Ōtāhuhu south of Ōtāhuhu / Mount Richmond, where only 200 metres of land separated the Manukau Harbour from the Tāmaki River. Other major portages were
Karetu Karetu ( mi, Kāretu) is a community in the Northland Region of the North Island of New Zealand. Kawakawa is to the west, and Waikare is northeast. The Karetu River flows from the Russell Forest in the southeast through Karetu, and joins the ...
, which was to the south of Mutukaroa / Hamlins Hill Regional Park, and Te Tōanga Waka (the Whau Portage), which connected the
Whau River The Whau River is an estuarial arm of the southwestern Waitemata Harbour (rather than a river) within the Auckland metropolitan area in New Zealand. It flows north for from its origin at the confluence of the Avondale Stream and Whau Stream to ...
, Avondale Creek (Waitahurangi) to Karaka, which was the coast on the Manukau Harbour at Green Bay. In addition to portages, trails across the isthmus were created, one of the most notable being
Karangahape Road Karangahape Road (commonly known as K' Road) is one of the main streets in the central business district (CBD) of Auckland, New Zealand. The massive expansion of motorways through the nearby inner city area – and subsequent flight of resident ...
, connecting the central isthmus to Cornwallis / Karangahape in the southern
Waitākere Ranges The Waitākere Ranges is a mountain range in New Zealand. Located in West Auckland between metropolitan Auckland and the Tasman Sea, the ranges and its foothills and coasts comprise some of public and private land. The area, traditionally kno ...
. Between the 13th and 18th centuries, much of the isthmus was deforested, and devoted to kūmara (sweet potato) cultivation. Land underwent periods of
shifting cultivation Shifting cultivation is an agricultural system in which plots of land are cultivated temporarily, then abandoned while post-disturbance fallow vegetation is allowed to freely grow while the cultivator moves on to another plot. The period of cul ...
, where once the soil was exhausted, a new field would be tilled, and the former would be colonised by fast-growing native plants. After harvesting, crops would be stored in ''rua kūmara'', a storehouse fitted over a dry pit that is often found on the volcanic cones of the isthmus. In the 17th century, chief
Hua Kaiwaka Hua or HUA may refer to: China * Hua, as in Huaxia and Zhonghua, a name of China ** Hoa people, Chinese people in Vietnam * Hua (state), a state in ancient China, destroyed by Qin * Hua (surname), a Chinese surname * Hua County, in Anyang, Hena ...
consolidated tribes on the isthmus as a confederation called
Waiohua Te Waiohua or Te Wai-o-Hua is a Māori iwi (tribe) confederation that thrived in the early 18th century. The iwi's rohe (tribal area) was primarily the central Tāmaki Makaurau area (the Auckland isthmus) and the Māngere peninsula, until the 17 ...
, a union which lasted for three generations until the early 18th century. Thousands of people lived at fortified
The word pā (; often spelled pa in English) can refer to any Māori village or defensive settlement, but often refers to hillforts – fortified settlements with palisades and defensive terraces – and also to fortified villages. Pā sites o ...
complexes on
Maungawhau / Mount Eden Maungawhau / Mount Eden is a scoria cone and Tūpuna Maunga (ancestral mountain) in the Mount Eden suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. Geography The cone is a dormant volcano and its summit, at above sea level, is the highest natural point on the ...
and
Maungakiekie / One Tree Hill Maungakiekie / One Tree Hill is a volcano, volcanic peak and Tūpuna Maunga o Tāmaki Makaurau, Tūpuna Maunga (ancestral mountain) in Auckland, New Zealand. It is an important place culturally and archeologically for both Māori people, Māor ...
, and Waiohua settlements were found at Maungarei, Onehunga, Remuera,
Ōrākei Ōrākei is a suburb of Auckland city, in the North Island of New Zealand. It is located on a peninsula five kilometres to the east of the city centre, on the shore of the Waitematā Harbour, which lies to the north, and Hobson Bay and Orakei ...
,
Kohimarama Kohimarama is a coastal residential Auckland suburb, located to the east of the city. Kohimarama is situated between Mission Bay and St Heliers and has an accessible beach with a boardwalk and green recreational spaces located amongst resident ...
, Rarotonga / Mount Smart, Te Tatua-a-Riukiuta, Ōwairaka / Mount Albert, the Waihorotiu Valley (modern
Auckland CBD The Auckland Central Business District (CBD), or Auckland city centre, is the geographical and economic heart of the Auckland metropolitan area. It is the area in which Auckland was established in 1840, by William Hobson. It is New Zealand's lea ...
), in addition to
Māngere Māngere () or Mangere is one of the largest suburbs in Auckland, in northern New Zealand. It is located on mainly flat land on the northeastern shore of the Manukau Harbour, to the northwest of Manukau City Centre and 15 kilometres south of ...
to the south of the isthmus. Almost all hills, headlands and mountains on the isthmus have some history of Māori occupancy. The
Te Taoū Te Taoū is a Māori iwi (tribe) of Northland and the Auckland Region in New Zealand. Together with Te Uri-o-Hau, Te Roroa and Ngāti Whātua-o-Ōrākei, it comprises the iwi (tribe) of Ngāti Whātua. The four iwi can act together or separately ...
hapū of
Ngāti Whātua Ngāti Whātua is a Māori iwi (tribe) of the lower Northland Peninsula of New Zealand's North Island. It comprises a confederation of four hapū (subtribes) interconnected both by ancestry and by association over time: Te Uri-o-Hau, Te Roroa, Te ...
defeated
Kiwi Tāmaki Kiwi Tāmaki (died ) was a Māori warrior and paramount chief of the Waiohua confederation in Tāmaki Makaurau (modern-day Auckland isthmus). The third generation paramount chief of Waiohua, Kiwi Tāmaki consolidated and extended Waiohua power ...
, the paramount chief of Waiohua circa 1741, at a battle at Paruroa (Big Muddy Creek) in the lower
Waitākere Ranges The Waitākere Ranges is a mountain range in New Zealand. Located in West Auckland between metropolitan Auckland and the Tasman Sea, the ranges and its foothills and coasts comprise some of public and private land. The area, traditionally kno ...
. After Waiohua were defeated in a series of battles, some members of Te Taoū settled at Tāmaki Makaurau and intermarried with Waiohua, later becoming known as
Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei or Ngāti Whātua-o-Ōrākei is an Auckland-based Māori hapū (sub-tribe) in New Zealand. Together with Te Uri-o-Hau, Te Roroa and Te Taoū, it comprises the iwi (tribe) of Ngāti Whātua. These four hapū can act togethe ...
. During this period, the isthmus began to be reforested, due to the relatively small population of Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei. In the 1780s, Te Tahuri, a chieftainess of Te Taou gifted land on the Western shore of the Tāmaki River to
Ngāti Pāoa Ngāti Pāoa is a Māori people, Māori ''iwi'' (tribe) that has extensive links to the Hauraki and Waikato tribes of New Zealand. Its traditional lands stretch from the western side of the Hauraki Plains to Auckland. They also settled on Hauraki ...
at Mokoia (modern day Panmure), and within a generation Ngāti Pāoa almost outnumbered Ngāti Whātua on the isthmus. While Ngāti Whātua and Ngāti Pāoa peacefully co-exited at first, an incident during a sharking expedition which led to the death of Tarahawaiki (father of
Apihai Te Kawau Apihai Te Kawau (died November 1869) was a paramount chief of the Ngāti Whātua Māori ''iwi'' (tribe) of Auckland (), New Zealand in the 19th century. Te Kawau's father was Tarahawaiki and his grandfather was Tūperiri, the principal leader o ...
) began a cycle of revenge attacks between Ngāti Whātua/Waiohua and Ngāti Pāoa. While peacemaking Ngāti Whātua and Ngāti Pāoa began in 1793,
Ngāpuhi Ngāpuhi (or Ngā Puhi) is a Māori iwi associated with the Northland region of New Zealand and centred in the Hokianga, the Bay of Islands, and Whangārei. According to the 2018 New Zealand census, the estimated population of Ngāpuhi is 165, ...
from the north attacked Ngāti Pāoa, culminating in a battle at the mouth of the Tāmaki River, where Ngāti Pāoa fended off Ngāpuhi. By the time missionaries
Samuel Marsden Samuel Marsden (25 June 1765 – 12 May 1838) was an English-born priest of the Church of England in Australia and a prominent member of the Church Missionary Society, believed to have introduced Christianity to New Zealand. Marsden was a prom ...
and
John Gare Butler John Gare Butler (March 1781 – 18 June 1841) was the first ordained clergyman to reside in New Zealand with the Church Missionary Society (CMS). In 1818 he was ordained as a priest by the Bishop of Gloucester. Butler and the Māori workers a ...
visited the isthmus in 1820, there were thousands of inhabitants living along the shores of the Tāmaki River. In late 1821 during the
Musket Wars The Musket Wars were a series of as many as 3,000 battles and raids fought throughout New Zealand (including the Chatham Islands) among Māori between 1807 and 1837, after Māori first obtained muskets and then engaged in an intertribal arms ra ...
, a Ngāpuhi taua (war party) led by
Hongi Hika Hongi Hika ( – 6 March 1828) was a New Zealand Māori rangatira (chief) and war leader of the iwi of Ngāpuhi. He was a pivotal figure in the early years of regular European contact and settlement in New Zealand. As one of the first Māori l ...
attacked Mauināina pā and Mokoia village on the banks of the Tāmaki River (modern-day Panmure), causing a great number of deaths. This incident marked the beginning of a period of time when the isthmus was most deserted, when Tāmaki Māori sheltered in regions away from the threat of
Te Tai Tokerau Māori Te Tai Tokerau Māori are a group of Māori ''iwi'' (tribes) based on the Northland Peninsula of New Zealand's North Island. It includes the far northern Muriwhenua ''iwi'' (tribes) of Te Aupōuri, Ngāti Kahu, Ngāti Kurī, Te Pātū, Te Rarawa a ...
raiders that continued on until the early 1830s. Ngāti Pāoa began to return to the Hauraki Gulf region in the 1820s, however primarily focused resettling
Waiheke Island Waiheke Island (; Māori: ) is the second-largest island (after Great Barrier Island) in the Hauraki Gulf of New Zealand. Its ferry terminal in Matiatia Bay at the western end is from the central-city terminal in Auckland. It is the most pop ...
, where there were many trade opportunities with whalers. Ngāti Whātua returned to the isthmus by the mid-1830s, resettling in the Māngere Bridge-
Onehunga Onehunga is a suburb of Auckland in New Zealand and the location of the Port of Onehunga, the city's small port on the Manukau Harbour. It is south of the Auckland CBD, city centre, close to the volcano, volcanic cone of Maungakiekie / One Tree ...
area. By the 1840s, much of the landscape of the Auckland isthmus was covered in
bracken Bracken (''Pteridium'') is a genus of large, coarse ferns in the family Dennstaedtiaceae. Ferns (Pteridophyta) are vascular plants that have alternating generations, large plants that produce spores and small plants that produce sex cells (eggs ...
fern. The shoreline of the Waitematā Harbour was populated with
pōhutukawa ''Metrosideros excelsa'', commonly known as pōhutukawa ( mi, pōhutukawa), New Zealand Christmas tree, New Zealand Christmas bush, and iron tree, is a coastal evergreen tree in the myrtle family, Myrtaceae, that produces a brilliant display o ...
trees, however during the 1840s onwards most mature specimens were cut down to use for ship building.


European history


Early colonial period

In 1840 after the signing of the
Treaty of Waitangi The Treaty of Waitangi ( mi, Te Tiriti o Waitangi) is a document of central importance to the history, to the political constitution of the state, and to the national mythos of New Zealand. It has played a major role in the treatment of the M ...
, paramount chief
Apihai Te Kawau Apihai Te Kawau (died November 1869) was a paramount chief of the Ngāti Whātua Māori ''iwi'' (tribe) of Auckland (), New Zealand in the 19th century. Te Kawau's father was Tarahawaiki and his grandfather was Tūperiri, the principal leader o ...
made a ''tuku'' (strategic gift) of land at Waihorotiu on the Waitematā Harbour to
William Hobson Captain William Hobson (26 September 1792 – 10 September 1842) was a British Royal Navy officer who served as the first Governor of New Zealand. He was a co-author of the Treaty of Waitangi. Hobson was dispatched from London in July 1 ...
, the first Governor of New Zealand, as a location for the capital of the colony to develop. This location became the modern city of Auckland, beginning with a port develop around
Commercial Bay Commercial Bay ( mi, Onepanea) was a bay on the southern side of the Waitematā Harbour that defined the original extent of the Auckland waterfront in Auckland, New Zealand. It was framed by two substantial headlands, Smale's Point dividing i ...
. In mid-1840, Apihai Te Kawau relocated the majority of the Ngāti Whātua from the Manukau Harbour to
Remuera Remuera is an affluent inner city suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. It is located four kilometres southeast of the city centre. Remuera is characterised by many large houses, often Edwardian or mid 20th century. A prime example of a "leafy" sub ...
-
Ōrākei Ōrākei is a suburb of Auckland city, in the North Island of New Zealand. It is located on a peninsula five kilometres to the east of the city centre, on the shore of the Waitematā Harbour, which lies to the north, and Hobson Bay and Orakei ...
on the Waitematā Harbour, closer to the new settlement of Auckland. Dual ports were created on either side of the isthmus for the European settlement: the Port of Auckland on the Waitematā Harbour, and the Port of Onehunga on the Manukau Harbour, separated by nine kilometres. In 1841, the Crown purchased the Kohimarama block from Ngāti Pāoa (6,000 acres extending from Mission Bay south to Panmure). Ngāti Pāoa understood that this deal allowed for Ngāti Pāoa to settle and establish a trading post at Parnell near the new city of Auckland, however no reserves were set aside. Land at
Mechanics Bay Mechanics Bay ( mi, Te Tōangaroa) is a Land reclamation, reclaimed bay on the Waitematā Harbour in Auckland, New Zealand. It is also the name of the area of the former bay that is now mainly occupied by commercial and port facilities. Some ...
was eventually established as a general area for Ngāti Pāoa, other iwi and poorer visitors to Auckland, which was declared a public domain in 1898. Between 1847 and 1852, the towns of
Onehunga Onehunga is a suburb of Auckland in New Zealand and the location of the Port of Onehunga, the city's small port on the Manukau Harbour. It is south of the Auckland CBD, city centre, close to the volcano, volcanic cone of Maungakiekie / One Tree ...
,
Ōtāhuhu Ōtāhuhu is a suburb of Auckland, New Zealand – to the southeast of the CBD, on a narrow isthmus between an arm of the Manukau Harbour to the west and the Tamaki River estuary to the east. The isthmus is the narrowest connection between the ...
and Panmure were established by Governor
George Grey Sir George Grey, KCB (14 April 1812 – 19 September 1898) was a British soldier, explorer, colonial administrator and writer. He served in a succession of governing positions: Governor of South Australia, twice Governor of New Zealand, Go ...
as outposts for the
Royal New Zealand Fencible Corps The Royal New Zealand Fencible Corps was formed in 1846, following the conclusion of the Northern War phase of the New Zealand Wars against Hone Heke. The Governor, George Grey, had requested military forces for the defence of the early settlers in ...
, a collection of retired British and Irish soldiers, to serve as a buffer against a perceived threat of war from the south. Onehunga on the Manukau Harbour became a major port town, facilitating trade with Manukau-based
Tāmaki Māori Tāmaki Māori are Māori ''iwi'' and ''hapū'' (tribes and sub-tribes) who have a strong connection to Tāmaki Makaurau (the Auckland Region), and whose rohe was traditionally within the region. Among Ngā Mana Whenua o Tāmaki Makaurau (the M ...
and
Waikato Waikato () is a Regions of New Zealand, local government region of the upper North Island of New Zealand. It covers the Waikato District, Waipa District, Matamata-Piako District, South Waikato District and Hamilton, New Zealand, Hamilton City ...
tribes, who would sell and barter resources such as peaches, melons, fish and potatoes. By 1855, most Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei lands had either been given as ''tuku'' to the Crown, or lost through property speculators, with only the 700-acre
Ōrākei Ōrākei is a suburb of Auckland city, in the North Island of New Zealand. It is located on a peninsula five kilometres to the east of the city centre, on the shore of the Waitematā Harbour, which lies to the north, and Hobson Bay and Orakei ...
block remaining. Larger areas of Auckland were able to be developed after the creation of Great North Road and Great South Road, the latter of which was created during the 1860s to facilitate troop movements during the
Invasion of the Waikato The Invasion of the Waikato became the largest and most important campaign of the 19th-century New Zealand Wars. Hostilities took place in the North Island of New Zealand between the military forces of the colonial government and a federation ...
. During the 1860s, affluent members of society in Auckland began to move into the countryside, living at locations such as modern Newmarket and
Epsom Epsom is the principal town of the Borough of Epsom and Ewell in Surrey, England, about south of central London. The town is first recorded as ''Ebesham'' in the 10th century and its name probably derives from that of a Saxon landowner. The ...
. By the late 1860s, the economy on the isthmus began to decline, after soldiers left the area at the end of the invasion, and because the
capital Capital may refer to: Common uses * Capital city, a municipality of primary status ** List of national capital cities * Capital letter, an upper-case letter Economics and social sciences * Capital (economics), the durable produced goods used f ...
was moved south to
Wellington Wellington ( mi, Te Whanganui-a-Tara or ) is the capital city of New Zealand. It is located at the south-western tip of the North Island, between Cook Strait and the Remutaka Range. Wellington is the second-largest city in New Zealand by me ...
.


1850s–1950s: development and state housing

Beginning in 1859, land reclamation in the Waitematā Harbour enabled Auckland to become a shipping hub, facilitating the export of goods such as gold from the
Thames The River Thames ( ), known alternatively in parts as the River Isis, is a river that flows through southern England including London. At , it is the longest river entirely in England and the second-longest in the United Kingdom, after the R ...
gold rush and
kauri ''Agathis'', commonly known as kauri or dammara, is a genus of 22 species of evergreen tree. The genus is part of the ancient conifer family Araucariaceae, a group once widespread during the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods, but now largely res ...
logging Logging is the process of cutting, processing, and moving trees to a location for transport. It may include skidding, on-site processing, and loading of trees or logs onto trucks or skeleton cars. Logging is the beginning of a supply chain ...
, until these resources were exhausted in the early 1900s. By 1890, 53 hectares of land was reclaimed at the
Ports of Auckland Ports of Auckland Limited (POAL), the successor to the Auckland Harbour Board, is the Auckland Council-owned company administering Auckland's commercial freight and cruise ship harbour facilities. As the company operates all of the associated fa ...
. In the 1880s, many headlands of the Waitematā Harbour were developed into military forts due to concerns over a potential invasion from
Russia Russia (, , ), or the Russian Federation, is a List of transcontinental countries, transcontinental country spanning Eastern Europe and North Asia, Northern Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by area, largest country in the ...
, including Point Resolution in Parnell and
Bastion Point Takaparawhau / Bastion Point is a coastal piece of land in Ōrākei, Auckland, New Zealand, overlooking the Waitematā Harbour. The area is significant in New Zealand history as the site of protests in the late 1970s by Māori against forced la ...
at
Ōrākei Ōrākei is a suburb of Auckland city, in the North Island of New Zealand. It is located on a peninsula five kilometres to the east of the city centre, on the shore of the Waitematā Harbour, which lies to the north, and Hobson Bay and Orakei ...
(however most prominently seen at North Head and Mount Victoria on the North Shore). During the 19th century, plans for a canal (variously at the
Ōtāhuhu Ōtāhuhu is a suburb of Auckland, New Zealand – to the southeast of the CBD, on a narrow isthmus between an arm of the Manukau Harbour to the west and the Tamaki River estuary to the east. The isthmus is the narrowest connection between the ...
portage or the
Whau River The Whau River is an estuarial arm of the southwestern Waitemata Harbour (rather than a river) within the Auckland metropolitan area in New Zealand. It flows north for from its origin at the confluence of the Avondale Stream and Whau Stream to ...
portage) linking the two sides of the isthmus were widely discussed, however plans never eventuated, and by the 1910s the idea had been abandoned, after the completion of the
North Island Main Trunk The North Island Main Trunk (NIMT) is the main railway line in the North Island of New Zealand, connecting the capital city Wellington with the country's largest city, Auckland. The line is long, built to the New Zealand rail gauge of and ser ...
railway. During the 1800s, many of the volcanic cones on the isthmus such as
Maungawhau / Mount Eden Maungawhau / Mount Eden is a scoria cone and Tūpuna Maunga (ancestral mountain) in the Mount Eden suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. Geography The cone is a dormant volcano and its summit, at above sea level, is the highest natural point on the ...
, Te Kōpuke / Mount Saint John and Maungarei / Mount Wellington began to be quarried, so that the scoria could be used for roading materials, however by the end of the century, lava basalt deposits or
greywacke Greywacke or graywacke (German ''grauwacke'', signifying a grey, earthy rock) is a variety of sandstone generally characterized by its hardness, dark color, and poorly sorted angular grains of quartz, feldspar, and small rock fragments or lit ...
from the
Hunua Ranges The Hunua Ranges is a mountain range and regional park to the southeast of Auckland city, in the Auckland and Waikato regions of New Zealand's North Island. The ranges cover some and rise to 688 metres (2255 ft) at Kohukohunui.
was preferred. By the 1860s, the
Albert Park Volcano The Albert Park Volcano was one of the volcanoes in the Auckland volcanic field in New Zealand. A small volcano that erupted approximately 145,000 years ago, the volcanic remnants were quarried during the early colonial history of Auckland be ...
had been entirely quarried, and by the 1880s the non-volcanic
Point Britomart Point Britomart ( mi, Te Rerenga Ora Iti) was a headland in the Waitematā Harbour, in Auckland (), New Zealand. Located between Commercial Bay and Official Bay,
headland was quarried to be used as fill for land reclamation in
Mechanics Bay Mechanics Bay ( mi, Te Tōangaroa) is a Land reclamation, reclaimed bay on the Waitematā Harbour in Auckland, New Zealand. It is also the name of the area of the former bay that is now mainly occupied by commercial and port facilities. Some ...
. The isthmus was connected to surrounding areas of Auckland through infrastructure projects. The
Panmure Bridge The Panmure Bridge, also known as the Tāmaki River Bridge, is a bridge crossing the Tāmaki River in Auckland, New Zealand, connecting the suburbs of Panmure and Pakuranga. The original 1865 bridge, a wooden and steel structure with a swing ...
connecting to eastern Auckland farmland and the fencibles settlement of Howick was opened in 1866, followed by the Māngere Bridge linking Auckland south in 1875, and the first
Grafton Bridge Grafton Bridge is a road bridge spanning Grafton Gully in Auckland, New Zealand. Built of reinforced concrete in 1910, it connects the Auckland CBD and Karangahape Road with Grafton. It spans about 97.6 metres (320 feet), rises 25.6 metr ...
in 1884, linking the central city to Grafton across the
Grafton Gully Grafton Gully is a deep (about 50 m) and very wide (about 100 m) gully running northwards towards the sea through the volcanic hills of the Auckland volcanic field in New Zealand. It divides the CBD from the suburbs of Grafton and Parnell in ...
. Auckland's first railway opened in 1873, the
Onehunga Line The Onehunga Line in Auckland, New Zealand is the name given to suburban train services that operate between Newmarket and Onehunga (formerly between Britomart and Onehunga via Newmarket). Routing From Newmarket, Onehunga Line services foll ...
on the
Onehunga Branch The Onehunga Branch railway line is a section of the Onehunga Line in Auckland, New Zealand. It was constructed by the Auckland Provincial Government and opened from Penrose to Onehunga on 24 December 1873, and extended to Onehunga Wharf o ...
between
Point Britomart Point Britomart ( mi, Te Rerenga Ora Iti) was a headland in the Waitematā Harbour, in Auckland (), New Zealand. Located between Commercial Bay and Official Bay,
and
Onehunga Onehunga is a suburb of Auckland in New Zealand and the location of the Port of Onehunga, the city's small port on the Manukau Harbour. It is south of the Auckland CBD, city centre, close to the volcano, volcanic cone of Maungakiekie / One Tree ...
via Penrose, followed soon after by the Southern Line, connecting the isthmus south to
Pukekohe Pukekohe is a town in the Auckland Region of the North Island of New Zealand. Located at the southern edge of the Auckland Region, it is in South Auckland, between the southern shore of the Manukau Harbour and the mouth of the Waikato River. Th ...
by 1875, and as far south on the
North Island Main Trunk The North Island Main Trunk (NIMT) is the main railway line in the North Island of New Zealand, connecting the capital city Wellington with the country's largest city, Auckland. The line is long, built to the New Zealand rail gauge of and ser ...
as
Te Awamutu Te Awamutu is a town in the Waikato region in the North Island of New Zealand. It is the council seat of the Waipa District and serves as a service town for the farming communities which surround it. Te Awamutu is located some south of Hamilto ...
in the
Waikato Waikato () is a Regions of New Zealand, local government region of the upper North Island of New Zealand. It covers the Waikato District, Waipa District, Matamata-Piako District, South Waikato District and Hamilton, New Zealand, Hamilton City ...
by 1880. The Western Line, a section of the
North Auckland Line The North Auckland Line (designation NAL) is a major section of New Zealand's national rail network, and is made up of the following parts: the portion of track that runs northward from Westfield Junction to Newmarket Station; from there, wes ...
, was opened on 29 March 1880 connecting Newmarket to Glen Eden, and extended as far north as
Helensville Helensville is a town in the North Island of New Zealand. It is sited northwest of Auckland, close to the southern extremity of the Kaipara Harbour. New Zealand State Highway 16, State Highway 16 passes through the town, connecting it to Waimauk ...
by the following year. In November 1902, tram lines were opened, connecting Onehunga and
Herne Bay Herne Bay is a seaside town on the north coast of Kent in South East England. It is north of Canterbury and east of Whitstable. It neighbours the ancient villages of Herne and Reculver and is part of the City of Canterbury local government ...
to the central city. By the 1920s and early 1930s, tram lines had been constructed, connecting a number of suburbs, including
Mount Roskill Mount Roskill is a suburban area in the city of Auckland, New Zealand. It is named for the volcanic peak Puketāpapa (commonly called "Mount Roskill" in English). Description The suburb, named after the Mount, is located seven kilometres to ...
,
Remuera Remuera is an affluent inner city suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. It is located four kilometres southeast of the city centre. Remuera is characterised by many large houses, often Edwardian or mid 20th century. A prime example of a "leafy" sub ...
, Meadowbank,
Point Chevalier Point Chevalier (; commonly known as Point Chev and an original colonial name of Point Bunbury after Thomas Bunbury) is a residential suburb and peninsula in the city of Auckland in the north of New Zealand. It is located five kilometres to th ...
(a suburb that was newly developed in the 1920s),
Three Kings The biblical Magi from Middle Persian ''moɣ''(''mard'') from Old Persian ''magu-'' 'Zoroastrian clergyman' ( or ; singular: ), also referred to as the (Three) Wise Men or (Three) Kings, also the Three Magi were distinguished foreigners in the G ...
and Avondale to the central city. The opening of the tram stops led to suburban development for these suburbs, attracting middle income families, while city-adjacent suburbs such as Ponsonby,
Freemans Bay Freemans Bay is the name of a former bay and now inner city suburb of Auckland, in the North Island of New Zealand. The bay has been filled in to a considerable extent, with the reclamation area now totally concealing the ancient shoreline. Hist ...
and
Grey Lynn Grey Lynn is an inner suburb of Auckland, New Zealand, located to the west of the city centre. Originally a separate borough, Grey Lynn amalgamated with Auckland City in 1914. Grey Lynn is centred on Grey Lynn Park, which was not part of the ...
developed into slums due to the deteriorating 19th century housing stock. By the early 1900s, the Auckland isthmus became the most populated region of New Zealand. In 1911, Auckland became the industrial hub of the country, and by 1921 the
Port of Auckland Ports of Auckland Limited (POAL), the successor to the Auckland Harbour Board, is the Auckland Council-owned company administering Auckland's commercial freight and cruise ship harbour facilities. As the company operates all of the associated fa ...
was the busiest in New Zealand (a title later taken by the
Port of Tauranga The Port of Tauranga is situated in Tauranga, New Zealand. It is the largest port in the country both in terms of total cargo volume, and in terms of container throughput with container volumes exceeding 1.2 million TEUs (Twenty Foot Equival ...
). Between 1915 and 1940 most of the northern and central areas of the isthmus became urbanised, with the areas of Mount Albert, Avondale, Ellerslie and Onehunga joining the Auckland metropolitan sprawl. The popularity of the automobile in the 1920s also led to major concreting and sealing projects on the streets of the isthmus. In the 1930s, the eastern suburbs of the Auckland isthmus were connected to the central city after the construction the Westfield Deviation (now known as the Eastern Line) and Tāmaki Drive in 1932, both constructed on reclaimed strips of
Hobson Bay __NOTOC__ Hobson may refer to: People and fictional characters * Hobson (surname) * Hobson R. Reynolds (1898–1991), American politician and judge Places New Zealand * Hobson County, New Zealand, a former local authority * Mount Hobson ( ...
and the
Ōrākei Basin Ōrākei Basin is one of the volcanoes in the Auckland volcanic field in the North Island of New Zealand. It has an explosion crater around 700 m wide, with a surrounding tuff ring. The present basin is slightly larger than the original maar cra ...
. Overcrowding and poor quality housing began to be combatted in the 1930s by the use of town planning and
state housing State housing is a system of public housing in New Zealand, offering low-cost rental housing to residents on low to moderate incomes. Some 69,000 state houses are managed by Kāinga Ora – Homes and Communities, most of which are owned by the ...
projects. The first of these, dubbed the "
Ōrākei Ōrākei is a suburb of Auckland city, in the North Island of New Zealand. It is located on a peninsula five kilometres to the east of the city centre, on the shore of the Waitematā Harbour, which lies to the north, and Hobson Bay and Orakei ...
Garden Suburb", was envisioned as an area primarily for lower class families while providing high quality housing impossible in the inner city slums. By 1945, the areas of Waterview and
Mount Roskill Mount Roskill is a suburban area in the city of Auckland, New Zealand. It is named for the volcanic peak Puketāpapa (commonly called "Mount Roskill" in English). Description The suburb, named after the Mount, is located seven kilometres to ...
had also been developed as state housing projects. The land the Ōrākei public housing estate was constructed on was Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei land, which between 1886 and 1950 was either sold by individuals to the Crown or taken through the
Public Works Act Public Works Act (with its variations) is a stock short title used in New Zealand and the United Kingdom for legislation relating to public works. List New Zealand *The Public Works Act 1876 (40 Vict No 50) *The Public Works Act 1876 Amendment ...
, including
Bastion Point Takaparawhau / Bastion Point is a coastal piece of land in Ōrākei, Auckland, New Zealand, overlooking the Waitematā Harbour. The area is significant in New Zealand history as the site of protests in the late 1970s by Māori against forced la ...
(taken for a defensive fort in 1886) and the Ōkahu Bay sewage plant in 1908 (now the site of
Kelly Tarlton's Sea Life Aquarium Kelly Tarlton's Sea Life Aquarium (formerly Kelly Tarlton's Underwater World) is a public aquarium opened in 1985 in Auckland, New Zealand. Located at 23 Tamaki Drive, it was the brainchild of New Zealand marine archaeologist and diver Kelly Ta ...
), which caused significant pollution in bay near the Ngāti Whātua
kāinga A kāinga ( Southern Māori ''kaika'' or ''kaik'') is the traditional form of village habitation of pre-European Māori in New Zealand. It was unfortified or only lightly fortified, and over time became less important to the well-defended pā. D ...
. The kāinga and marae at Ōkahu Bay were seized and burned in 1952, under the pretense of beautification for the
royal visit A state visit is a formal visit by a head of state to a foreign country, at the invitation of the head of state of that foreign country, with the latter also acting as the official host for the duration of the state visit. Speaking for the host ...
of Queen
Elizabeth II Elizabeth II (Elizabeth Alexandra Mary; 21 April 1926 – 8 September 2022) was Queen of the United Kingdom and other Commonwealth realms from 6 February 1952 until her death in 2022. She was queen regnant of 32 sovereign states during ...
in 1953, and the residents were relocated to nearby state housing.


1950s–1983: motorways, immigration and suburban sprawl

By the mid-1950s,
motorways A controlled-access highway is a type of highway that has been designed for high-speed vehicular traffic, with all traffic flow—ingress and egress—regulated. Common English terms are freeway, motorway and expressway. Other similar terms i ...
became a new type of
civil engineering Civil engineering is a professional engineering discipline that deals with the design, construction, and maintenance of the physical and naturally built environment, including public works such as roads, bridges, canals, dams, airports, sewage ...
project that began to dominate the isthmus. The first section that opened was the
Northwestern Motorway The Northwestern Motorway (also known historically as the Auckland–Kumeu Motorway), part of (SH 16), is the major western route and secondary northern route out of Auckland in New Zealand. Twenty-one kilometres in length, the motorway runs f ...
in 1952, connecting Westerview to the
Te Atatū Peninsula Te Atatū Peninsula (formerly Te Atatu North) is a waterfront suburb of West Auckland surrounded by the Waitematā Harbour. The area was home to brickworks and farmland until the Northwestern Motorway was constructed in the 1950s, after which Te ...
in West Auckland, to create a dedicated corridor to reach the civilian airport at
Whenuapai Whenuapai is a suburb and aerodrome located in northwestern Auckland, in the North Island of New Zealand. It is located on the northwestern shore of the Waitematā Harbour, 15 kilometres to the northwest of Auckland's city centre. It is one of th ...
. By the mid-1950s, a new location at the Māngere Aerodrome became the favoured location for an international airport, and the
Auckland Airport Auckland Airport is the largest and busiest airport in New Zealand, with over 21 million passengers in the year ended March 2019. The airport is located near Māngere, a residential suburb, and Airport Oaks, a service hub suburb south of the ...
was opened at
Māngere Māngere () or Mangere is one of the largest suburbs in Auckland, in northern New Zealand. It is located on mainly flat land on the northeastern shore of the Manukau Harbour, to the northwest of Manukau City Centre and 15 kilometres south of ...
in 1966, while the Whenuapai airport remained as the
RNZAF Base Auckland RNZAF Base Auckland is a Royal New Zealand Air Force base located near the upper reaches of the Waitematā Harbour in Auckland, New Zealand. The base formerly comprised two separate airfields, Whenuapai and RNZAF Station Hobsonville. Hobsonville ...
. The Northwestern Motorway was followed by the
Auckland Southern Motorway The Auckland Southern Motorway (also known as the Southern Motorway, and historically as the Auckland–Hamilton Motorway) is the major route south out of the Auckland Region of New Zealand. It is part of New Zealand State Highway 1, State Highw ...
, which first opened between Ellerslie and Mount Wellington in 1953, and in 1959 the opening of the
Auckland Harbour Bridge The Auckland Harbour Bridge is an eight-lane motorway bridge over the Waitematā Harbour in Auckland, New Zealand. It joins St Marys Bay on the Auckland city side with Northcote on the North Shore side. It is part of State Highway 1 and the ...
and
Auckland Northern Motorway The Auckland Northern Motorway (known locally as the Northern Motorway, and historically as the Auckland–Waiwera Motorway) in the Auckland Region of New Zealand links Central Auckland and Puhoi in the former Rodney District via the Hibisc ...
. In the 1960s and 1970s, plans for these three motorways to join led to the creation of the
Central Motorway Junction The Central Motorway Junction or CMJ (best known as Spaghetti Junction and rarely as Central Motorway Intersection), is the intersection of State Highways 1 and 16, just south of the central business district of Auckland. A multilevel structu ...
, which involved the destruction of 15,000 homes and displaced over 45,000 residents in central suburbs such as
Newton Newton most commonly refers to: * Isaac Newton (1642–1726/1727), English scientist * Newton (unit), SI unit of force named after Isaac Newton Newton may also refer to: Arts and entertainment * ''Newton'' (film), a 2017 Indian film * Newton ( ...
and Freemans Bay, while effectively creating a barrier around the Auckland CBD cutting it off from the surrounding neighbourhoods. The construction of the Central Motorway Junction caused businesses to relocate away from
Karangahape Road Karangahape Road (commonly known as K' Road) is one of the main streets in the central business district (CBD) of Auckland, New Zealand. The massive expansion of motorways through the nearby inner city area – and subsequent flight of resident ...
, adjacent to the junction, causing the area to become established as a
red-light district A red-light district or pleasure district is a part of an urban area where a concentration of prostitution and sex-oriented businesses, such as sex shops, strip clubs, and adult theaters, are found. In most cases, red-light districts are particu ...
. The new car-centric model for the isthmus and greater Auckland led to the removal of the Auckland tram lines, which were replaced with
trolleybuses A trolleybus (also known as trolley bus, trolley coach, trackless trolley, trackless tramin the 1910s and 1920sJoyce, J.; King, J. S.; and Newman, A. G. (1986). ''British Trolleybus Systems'', pp. 9, 12. London: Ian Allan Publishing. .or troll ...
, and ultimately by
bus A bus (contracted from omnibus, with variants multibus, motorbus, autobus, etc.) is a road vehicle that carries significantly more passengers than an average car or van. It is most commonly used in public transport, but is also in use for cha ...
routes. A central rail loop and rail electrification project was proposed in the early 1950s by the
New Zealand Railways Department The New Zealand Railways Department, NZR or NZGR (New Zealand Government Railways) and often known as the "Railways", was a government department charged with owning and maintaining New Zealand's railway infrastructure and operating the railway ...
and championed by major
Dove-Myer Robinson Sir Dove-Myer Robinson (15 June 1901 – 14 August 1989) was Mayor of Auckland City from 1959 to 1965 and from 1968 to 1980, the longest tenure of any holder of the office. He was a colourful character and became affectionately known across New ...
, however was opposed by urban planners and counsellors. Funding for this project was scrapped in the 1970s by the Third National Government. The increase of motorways, the opening of the Harbour Bridge and reliance on cars made distant areas of the Auckland region more accessible, fueling a process of urban sprawl in Auckland. Suburban areas outside of the isthmus became more popular choices for residents of Auckland, with areas such as
Te Atatū Te Atatū (from the Māori : "the dawn") is the name of two adjacent suburbs in West Auckland, New Zealand: ''Te Atatū Peninsula'' and ''Te Atatū South''. They are located next to each other some 10 kilometres to the west of the Auckland city ...
in West Auckland and
Ōtara Ōtara is a suburb of South Auckland, New Zealand (formerly Manukau City), situated 18 kilometres to the southeast of the Auckland CBD. Ōtara lies near the head of the Tamaki River (actually an arm of the Hauraki Gulf), which extends south tow ...
in
South Auckland South Auckland is an imprecisely defined urban area of Auckland, New Zealand, with a young population, a relatively large Polynesian and Māori demographic, and lower incomes than other parts of Auckland. The name ''South Auckland'', though not ...
developing as middle class suburbs and low income state-funded housing estates. Glen Innes, one of the final farmland areas on the isthmus, was developed as a social housing area by local government in the 1950s. By 1964, western developments at New Windsor and
Mount Roskill Mount Roskill is a suburban area in the city of Auckland, New Zealand. It is named for the volcanic peak Puketāpapa (commonly called "Mount Roskill" in English). Description The suburb, named after the Mount, is located seven kilometres to ...
, south-eastern developments at
Oranga Oranga is a small residential suburb in Auckland, New Zealand. It is located nine kilometres to the southeast of the city centre, between the commercial suburbs of Te Papapa and Penrose to the south and east, and the residential suburbs of One ...
and Mount Wellington, and remaining patches such as
Tāmaki Tāmaki is a small suburb of East Auckland, 11 kilometres from the Auckland CBD, in the North Island of New Zealand. It is located by the banks of the estuarial Tāmaki River, which is a southern arm of the Hauraki Gulf. The suburb is between ...
led to the Auckland isthmus becoming a contiguous urban sprawl. In 1945, the CBD and inner city suburbs had a population of 68,000, however due to suburbanisation the population fell over the next 50 years, only recovering to 1945 levels by the mid-2000s. As Auckland city sprawled outwards from the isthmus, industrial suburbs previously on the outer belt of the city away from residential areas became engulfed by the city. Areas such as Avondale, Rosebank and
New Lynn New Lynn is a residential suburb in West Auckland, New Zealand, located 10 kilometres to the southwest of the Auckland city centre. The suburb is located along the Whau River, one of the narrowest points of the North Island, and was the locatio ...
to the west, Mount Wellington, Penrose and
Ōtāhuhu Ōtāhuhu is a suburb of Auckland, New Zealand – to the southeast of the CBD, on a narrow isthmus between an arm of the Manukau Harbour to the west and the Tamaki River estuary to the east. The isthmus is the narrowest connection between the ...
to the south/east, where motor vehicle factories, paint manufacturing, clothing factories, freezing works and allied trades were located, were now surrounded by suburban housing. As people moved towards the suburbs, the CBD and adjacent central suburbs declined in popularity. In 1945, 38% of the Auckland workforce was based in the CBD, however by 1962 this figure had dropped to 26%. By the 1940s and 1950s, the oldest suburbs adjacent to the central city had become dilapidated due to the aging housing stock. During
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
,
Urban Māori Urban Māori are Māori people living in urban areas outside the ''rohe'' (traditional tribal lands) of their ''iwi'' (tribe) or ''hapū'' (sub-tribe). The 2013 New Zealand census showed that 84% of Māori in New Zealand lived in urban areas, 25% ...
had settled in the inner suburbs of Auckland such as Ponsonby and Parnell, however by the 1960s Polynesian migrants tended to settle in these inner city suburbs, while Māori tended to live near the Auckland city limits outside of the isthmus. Pasifika immigrants typically came from the countries associated with the
Realm of New Zealand The Realm of New Zealand consists of the entire area in which the monarch of New Zealand functions as head of state. The realm is not a federation; it is a collection of states and territories united under its monarch. New Zealand is an indep ...
:
Western Samoa Samoa, officially the Independent State of Samoa; sm, Sāmoa, and until 1997 known as Western Samoa, is a Polynesian island country consisting of two main islands ( Savai'i and Upolu); two smaller, inhabited islands ( Manono and Apolima); a ...
, the
Cook Islands ) , image_map = Cook Islands on the globe (small islands magnified) (Polynesia centered).svg , capital = Avarua , coordinates = , largest_city = Avarua , official_languages = , lan ...
and
Niue Niue (, ; niu, Niuē) is an island country in the South Pacific Ocean, northeast of New Zealand. Niue's land area is about and its population, predominantly Polynesian, was about 1,600 in 2016. Niue is located in a triangle between Tong ...
. By the 1950s, the Auckland City Council began to plan the demolition of the oldest suburbs such as
Freemans Bay Freemans Bay is the name of a former bay and now inner city suburb of Auckland, in the North Island of New Zealand. The bay has been filled in to a considerable extent, with the reclamation area now totally concealing the ancient shoreline. Hist ...
. Council-funded multi-storey flats had begun to be built in the central suburbs by 1954, however the wide-scale plans for demolition of older housing stock never went ahead. During this period, many areas of the CBD that had previously been housing areas were re-devoped as commercial premises.
Gentrification Gentrification is the process of changing the character of a neighborhood through the influx of more Wealth, affluent residents and businesses. It is a common and controversial topic in urban politics and urban planning, planning. Gentrification ...
of the inner suburbs began in the 1970s, when primarily white and educated youth moved to suburbs such as Ponsonby, seeing an urban, multi-cultural lifestyle. These populations tended to purchase houses outright, meaning Pasifika families who relied on rental houses tended to move to the peripheral suburbs of Auckland such as Avondale, and especially areas where state housing projects had increased rental housing stock, such as
Māngere Māngere () or Mangere is one of the largest suburbs in Auckland, in northern New Zealand. It is located on mainly flat land on the northeastern shore of the Manukau Harbour, to the northwest of Manukau City Centre and 15 kilometres south of ...
and
Ōtara Ōtara is a suburb of South Auckland, New Zealand (formerly Manukau City), situated 18 kilometres to the southeast of the Auckland CBD. Ōtara lies near the head of the Tamaki River (actually an arm of the Hauraki Gulf), which extends south tow ...
in
South Auckland South Auckland is an imprecisely defined urban area of Auckland, New Zealand, with a young population, a relatively large Polynesian and Māori demographic, and lower incomes than other parts of Auckland. The name ''South Auckland'', though not ...
. The central suburb of
Grey Lynn Grey Lynn is an inner suburb of Auckland, New Zealand, located to the west of the city centre. Originally a separate borough, Grey Lynn amalgamated with Auckland City in 1914. Grey Lynn is centred on Grey Lynn Park, which was not part of the ...
remained a hub for Auckland Pasifika until the 1980s, with Pasifika populations only dropping in the late 1980s. By 1975, developments at
Lynfield Lynfield is a suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. It is under the local governance of Auckland Council. The suburb is located on the southwestern Auckland isthmus bordering the Manukau Harbour, much of which is densely forested with native forest. L ...
and Mount Wellington meant the Auckland isthmus was almost entirely urbanised.


1983 onwards: CBD development and intensification

Between 1983 and 1987, overseas investments led to an office building boom in the Auckland CBD, making the Auckland CBD the financial capital of New Zealand. The
1987 stock market crash Black Monday is the name commonly given to the global, sudden, severe, and largely unexpected stock market crash on Monday, October 19, 1987. In Australia and New Zealand, the day is also referred to as ''Black Tuesday'' because of the time z ...
led to the collapse of many property development companies, and much of the office space they had built was repurposed as residential apartments. Between 1991 and 2007, the population of the central city doubled, due to the wide-scale construction of apartments. Due to minimal planning requirements, central Auckland apartments developed a reputation for poor design. By 2007, the central government had introduced minimum standards for size and design for apartments. The 1990s and early 2000s saw a revitalisation of the CBD and the central suburbs. Many projects focused on the CBD and waterfront areas, due to Auckland hosting the
2000 File:2000 Events Collage.png, From left, clockwise: Protests against Bush v. Gore after the 2000 United States presidential election; Heads of state meet for the Millennium Summit; The International Space Station in its infant form as seen from ...
and
2003 America's Cup The 31st America's Cup was contested between the holder, Team New Zealand, and the winner of the 2003 Louis Vuitton Cup, Alinghi. Build Up The 2002–2003 Louis Vuitton Cup, held in the Hauraki Gulf in Auckland, New Zealand saw nine teams fro ...
. This was seen again in 2011, when the
Rugby World Cup The Rugby World Cup is a men's rugby union tournament contested every four years between the top international teams. The tournament is administered by World Rugby, the sport's international governing body. The winners are awarded the Webb E ...
led to the redevelopment of
Wynyard Quarter The Wynyard Quarter (historically also known as the Western Reclamation, Wynyard Point, Wynyard Wharf or Tank Farm) is a reclaimed piece of land on the Waitematā Harbour at the western edge of the Auckland waterfront, New Zealand. It is loca ...
,
Queens Wharf Queens Wharf is a multi-purpose venue in Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia with a cafe, pub, restaurant, observation tower and ferry wharf built as part of the redevelopment of the Hunter River foreshore. Opened in May 1988 by Queen Elizabet ...
,
Eden Park Eden Park is New Zealand's largest sports stadium, with a capacity of 50,000. Located in central Auckland, New Zealand's largest city, it is three kilometres southwest of the CBD, on the boundary between the suburbs of Mount Eden and King ...
and the central Auckland train stations. Since the 1990s, measures to combat urban sprawl have been undertaken by the Auckland councils, especially developing medium and high density housing around urban centres and public transport nodes. Public transport usage, which had been falling since the 1950s, stagnated and reached its lowest levels in the early 1990s. The
Britomart Transport Centre Britomart Transport Centre, also known as Britomart railway station, is the public transport hub in the Auckland Central Business District, central business district of Auckland and the northern terminus of the North Island Main Trunk railway ...
was proposed in the 1990s as a way to increase public transport use and increase land values for the CBD, and was opened in 2003. In 2001,
John Banks John Banks or Bankes may refer to: Politics and law *Sir John Banks, 1st Baronet (1627–1699), English merchant and Member of Parliament * John Banks (American politician) (1793–1864), U.S. Representative from Pennsylvania *John Gray Banks (188 ...
was elected as the
Mayor of Auckland City The Mayor of Auckland City was the directly elected head of the Auckland City Council, the municipal government of Auckland City, New Zealand. The office existed from 1871 to 2010, when the Auckland City Council and mayoralty was abolished an ...
on a platform of creating the Eastern Motorway, connecting the CBD to
East Auckland East Auckland is an area of Auckland, New Zealand, characterised in the popular mind as a socio-economically mixed urban area with a relatively large multi-cultural population. The name "East Auckland" is not an official placename, but is in popul ...
and the eastern isthmus suburbs, to alleviate the congestion problems faced by Auckland. The proposal was eventually dropped, as motorways began to fall out of favour in public opinion. The
Waterview Connection The Waterview Connection is a motorway section through west/central Auckland, New Zealand. It connects State Highway 20 in the south at Mt Roskill to State Highway 16 in the west at Point Chevalier, and is a part of the Western Ring Route. T ...
, a motorway project linking the Northwestern and
Southwestern Motorway State Highway 20 (SH 20), also known as the Southwestern Motorway, is a New Zealand state highway linking at Manukau with in Point Chevalier, via Māngere and Onehunga. Along with its spurs, State Highway 20A and 20B, the state high ...
s via a twin tunnel underneath the suburbs of Waterview and Mount Albert, was opened in 2017. From the late 2000s onwards, a number of public transport projects have been created to alleviate congestion, such as the Northern Busway (2008), electrification of Auckland railways (2014–2015), a more frequent public transport network (2016–2019), and the
Eastern Busway The Eastern Busway is a bus-only road running from the University of Queensland's St Lucia campus to Langlands Park busway station in Queensland, Australia. Development The Eastern Busway was built and opened in stages. The first section betw ...
(AMETI) (2021–2026). The
City Rail Link The City Rail Link (CRL) is a rail project currently under construction in Auckland, New Zealand. The project consists of a 3.5 km long double-track rail tunnel underneath Auckland's city centre, between Britomart Transport Centre and M ...
, an underground rail loop linking Britomart to the Western line, has a planned opening date of 2024, while plans for two light rail corridors, one line connecting the CBD to
Mount Roskill Mount Roskill is a suburban area in the city of Auckland, New Zealand. It is named for the volcanic peak Puketāpapa (commonly called "Mount Roskill" in English). Description The suburb, named after the Mount, is located seven kilometres to ...
,
Māngere Māngere () or Mangere is one of the largest suburbs in Auckland, in northern New Zealand. It is located on mainly flat land on the northeastern shore of the Manukau Harbour, to the northwest of Manukau City Centre and 15 kilometres south of ...
and the
Auckland Airport Auckland Airport is the largest and busiest airport in New Zealand, with over 21 million passengers in the year ended March 2019. The airport is located near Māngere, a residential suburb, and Airport Oaks, a service hub suburb south of the ...
, with the second connecting the CBD to northwestern Auckland, are in the planning stages. A number of legislative changes such as the 2016 Auckland Unitary Plan and the National Policy Statement on Urban Development have allowed higher density building in the isthmus and across the Auckland region. The more liberal
Immigration Act 1987 Immigration is the international movement of people to a destination country of which they are not natives or where they do not possess citizenship in order to settle as permanent residents or naturalized citizens. Commuters, tourists, and ...
led to increased immigration from Asia in the 1990s, and Auckland became a prominent destination for
international student International students, or foreign students, are students who undertake all or part of their tertiary education in a country other than their own and move to that country for the purpose of studying. In 2019, there were over 6 million internati ...
s. The Auckland isthmus, especially the CBD, became attractive to international students due to tertiary institutions such as the
University of Auckland , mottoeng = By natural ability and hard work , established = 1883; years ago , endowment = NZD $293 million (31 December 2021) , budget = NZD $1.281 billion (31 December 2021) , chancellor = Cecilia Tarrant , vice_chancellor = Dawn F ...
, the
Auckland University of Technology Auckland University of Technology (AUT) ( mi, Te Wānanga Aronui o Tāmaki Makau Rau) is a university in New Zealand, formed on 1 January 2000 when a former technical college (originally established in 1895) was granted university status. AUT ...
and local secondary schools.
Language school A language school is a school where one studies a foreign language. Classes at a language school are usually geared towards, for example, communicative competence in a foreign language. Language learning in such schools typically supplements fo ...
s and private training establishments specialising in subjects such as tourism and hospitality became common in central Auckland. By the mid-2000s, the population of the Auckland CBD was significantly more transient than most other areas of New Zealand, due to the large number of students, international tourists and domestic tourists.


Local government

Road boards were the first local government on the isthmus in the 1850s and 1860s outside of the colonial city, which were established due to a lack of central government funding for road improvements. By 1883, there were 69 road districts across Auckland, however as the population of the isthmus increased, these bodies merged into different boroughs and counties. South of the city was the
Eden County The Eden County, also known as the County of Eden was one of the counties of New Zealand. Established in 1876, the county covered the rural areas of the Auckland isthmus. The county gradually shrunk in size as the city of Auckland grew, and subu ...
(merged into Auckland City in 1940), which unlike most other counties in New Zealand, deferred most of its powers to the local road boards. Attempts to create local government on the isthmus began in 1851, hampered by extensive costs for roads and the 1860s economic downturn, however by April 1871 the
Auckland City Council Auckland City Council was the local government authority for Auckland City, New Zealand, from 1871 to 1 November 2010, when it and Auckland's six other city and district councils were amalgamated to form the Auckland Council. It was an elected b ...
had been established around the modern-day CBD. In 1882, neighbouring road boards of Ponsonby, Karangahape and Grafton amalgamated with the city due to the improved services and infrastructure offered by the council. From 1904, a stronger focus on amalgamating surrounding areas called the Greater Auckland scheme was undertaken, inspired by similar movements in
Wellington Wellington ( mi, Te Whanganui-a-Tara or ) is the capital city of New Zealand. It is located at the south-western tip of the North Island, between Cook Strait and the Remutaka Range. Wellington is the second-largest city in New Zealand by me ...
and
Christchurch Christchurch ( ; mi, Ōtautahi) is the largest city in the South Island of New Zealand and the seat of the Canterbury Region. Christchurch lies on the South Island's east coast, just north of Banks Peninsula on Pegasus Bay. The Avon River / ...
. This led to amalgamations with Arch Hill (1913),
Grey Lynn Grey Lynn is an inner suburb of Auckland, New Zealand, located to the west of the city centre. Originally a separate borough, Grey Lynn amalgamated with Auckland City in 1914. Grey Lynn is centred on Grey Lynn Park, which was not part of the ...
(1914), Parnell,
Remuera Remuera is an affluent inner city suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. It is located four kilometres southeast of the city centre. Remuera is characterised by many large houses, often Edwardian or mid 20th century. A prime example of a "leafy" sub ...
and
Eden Terrace Eden Terrace is an inner city suburb of Auckland, located 2 km south of the Auckland CBD, in the North Island of New Zealand. Eden Terrace is one of Auckland's oldest suburbs, and also one of the smallest; at just 47 hectares only Newton i ...
in 1915, followed by
Epsom Epsom is the principal town of the Borough of Epsom and Ewell in Surrey, England, about south of central London. The town is first recorded as ''Ebesham'' in the 10th century and its name probably derives from that of a Saxon landowner. The ...
(1917),
Point Chevalier Point Chevalier (; commonly known as Point Chev and an original colonial name of Point Bunbury after Thomas Bunbury) is a residential suburb and peninsula in the city of Auckland in the north of New Zealand. It is located five kilometres to th ...
(1921), Avondale (1927) (a merger which increased the Auckland City area by 40%), and eventually
Ōrākei Ōrākei is a suburb of Auckland city, in the North Island of New Zealand. It is located on a peninsula five kilometres to the east of the city centre, on the shore of the Waitematā Harbour, which lies to the north, and Hobson Bay and Orakei ...
and rural Tāmaki to the east of the isthmus in 1928. In 1978, the isthmus was home to several boroughs and two cities: Auckland and Mount Albert City. The two cities were joined by a third,
Tamaki City Tamaki City was a short-lived city within the Auckland metropolitan area in New Zealand. Tamaki Borough was formed by the amalgamation of Mt Wellington and Otahuhu boroughs on 19 October 1986. Tamaki was proclaimed a city on 28 January 1987 and ...
, in 1986, which was a result of a merger between the Mount Wellington and
Ōtāhuhu Ōtāhuhu is a suburb of Auckland, New Zealand – to the southeast of the CBD, on a narrow isthmus between an arm of the Manukau Harbour to the west and the Tamaki River estuary to the east. The isthmus is the narrowest connection between the ...
boroughs. During the
1989 New Zealand local government reforms The 1989 New Zealand local government reform was the most significant reform of local government in New Zealand in over a century. Some 850 local bodies were amalgamated into 86 local authorities, made up of regional and territorial levels. Backg ...
, the isthmus was amalgamated into a single territorial body, the
Auckland City Auckland City was a territorial authority with city status covering the central isthmus of the urban area of Auckland, New Zealand. It was governed by the Auckland City Council from 1989 to 2010, and as a territory within the wider Auckland R ...
, which merged the three cities and remaining boroughs: Ellerslie,
Mount Eden Mount Eden is a suburb in Auckland, New Zealand whose name honours George Eden, 1st Earl of Auckland. It is south of the Central Business District (CBD). Mt Eden Road winds its way around the side of Mount Eden Domain and continues to weave ba ...
,
Mount Roskill Mount Roskill is a suburban area in the city of Auckland, New Zealand. It is named for the volcanic peak Puketāpapa (commonly called "Mount Roskill" in English). Description The suburb, named after the Mount, is located seven kilometres to ...
, Newmarket,
Onehunga Onehunga is a suburb of Auckland in New Zealand and the location of the Port of Onehunga, the city's small port on the Manukau Harbour. It is south of the Auckland CBD, city centre, close to the volcano, volcanic cone of Maungakiekie / One Tree ...
and
One Tree Hill One Tree Hill may refer to: * "One Tree Hill" (song), a 1987 song by U2 referencing One Tree Hill, New Zealand volcanic peak * ''One Tree Hill'' (TV series), a 2003–2012 American drama series named for the U2 song ** ''One Tree Hill'' (soundtr ...
. On 1 November 2010, the Auckland City was merged with the surrounding metropolitan and rural areas to form a single
Auckland Council Auckland Council ( mi, Te Kaunihera o Tāmaki Makaurau) is the local government council for the Auckland Region in New Zealand. It is a territorial authority that has the responsibilities, duties and powers of a regional council and so is ...
unitary authority. Since the formation of the council, the Auckland isthmus has been divided into five wards: the
Waitematā and Gulf ward Waitematā and Gulf Ward is an Auckland Council ward which elects one councillor and covers the Great Barrier, Waiheke, and Waitematā Local Boards. The current councillor is Mike Lee. Demographics Waitematā and Gulf ward covers and had an e ...
,
Albert-Eden-Puketāpapa ward The Albert-Eden-Puketāpapa Ward is an Auckland Council ward which elects two councillors and covers the Albert-Eden Local Board, Albert-Eden and Puketāpapa Local Board, Puketāpapa Local Boards. Currently the councillors are Christine Fletcher an ...
,
Maungakiekie-Tāmaki ward Maungakiekie-Tāmaki Ward is an Auckland Council ward which elects one councillor and covers the Maungakiekie-Tāmaki Local Board. The current councillor is Josephine Bartley. Demographics Maungakiekie-Tāmaki ward covers and had an estimated po ...
,
Ōrākei ward Ōrākei is a suburb of Auckland city, in the North Island of New Zealand. It is located on a peninsula five kilometres to the east of the city centre, on the shore of the Waitematā Harbour, which lies to the north, and Hobson Bay and Orakei ...
and
Whau ward Whau Ward is an Auckland Council ward which elects one councillor and covers the Whau Local Board. The current councillor is Kerrin Leoni. Demographics Whau ward covers and had an estimated population of as of with a population density of peo ...
. The Waitematā and Gulf ward includes the
Hauraki Gulf / Tīkapa Moana The Hauraki Gulf / Tīkapa Moana is a coastal feature of the North Island of New Zealand. It has an area of 4000 km2,Waitakere City Waitākere City was a territorial authority in West Auckland, New Zealand; it was governed by the Waitākere City Council from 1989 to 2010. It was New Zealand's fifth-largest city, with an annual growth of about 2%. In 2010 the council was a ...
. The western edge of the isthmus forms the border between the Northern electricity network (serving West Auckland, the North Shore and the northern Auckland Region) and the Auckland network. Power consumers within the Auckland network are able to vote for the trustees of
Entrust Entrust Corp., formerly Entrust Datacard, provides software and hardware used to issue financial cards, e-passport production, user authentication for those looking to access secure networks or conduct financial transactions, trust certificat ...
, an electricity consumers trust and the majority shareholder of the electricity company
Vector Limited Vector Limited is an electricity and gas distribution company in Auckland, New Zealand. It is the national number one provider of electricity distribution, number one provider of electricity and gas Measuring instrument, metering and number tw ...
, while also receiving annual dividends.


References

{{Auckland
isthmus An isthmus (; ; ) is a narrow piece of land connecting two larger areas across an expanse of water by which they are otherwise separated. A tombolo is an isthmus that consists of a spit or bar, and a strait is the sea counterpart of an isthmu ...
Geography of Auckland Isthmuses of Oceania Landforms of the Auckland Region