History Of Rock Climbing

In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines: bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the 1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA),

As a free solo exercise with no artificial aid or climbing protection, bouldering remained largely consistent since its origins. Single-pitch climbing stopped using artificial aid in the early 20th-century, led by Paul Preuss, and later by Kurt Albert, and called " free climbing", however, it would not be until the late 1960s and early 1970s that Robbins and Yvon Chouinard would bring free climbing to big wall climbing. Climbing protection was needed for single-pitch and big-wall free climbing, and was inserted into the route while climbing; this is called "traditional climbing". By the 1980s, French pioneers like Patrick Edlinger wanted to climb rock faces in Buoux and Verdon that had no cracks in which to insert traditional climbing protection. They pre-drilled bolts into routes for climbing protection (but not as artificial aid); this became known as "sport climbing". It led to a dramatic increase in climbing standards, grades, and tools (e.g. artificial climbing walls and campus boards), the development of competition climbing (initially dominated in the 1990s by French climbers such as François Legrand), and the emergence of "professional" rock climbers.

By the end of the 20th-century, the hardest sport climbs were often combinations of bouldering-moves, and some of the best challenges lay in free climbing extreme big walls; this led to greater cross-over amongst the three sub-disciplines. Leading climbers such as Wolfgang Güllich, Jerry Moffatt, Alexander Huber, Fred Nicole, Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, and Tommy Caldwell set records in several of these disciplines. In addition, Güllich and Huber made ever-bolder single-pitch free solo climbs, while Sharma pushed standards in deep-water soloing; Alex Honnold's big wall free soloing was turned into the Oscar-winning film, '' Free Solo''. In 2016, the International Olympic Committee announced that competition climbing would be a medal sport in the 2020 Summer Olympics.

Female rock climbing developed later in the 20th-century, but by the 1970s and 1980s, climbers such as Lynn Hill and Catherine Destivelle were quickly closing the gap to the standard of routes being climbed by the leading men. In 1993, Hill made the first free ascent of '' The Nose'' on El Capitan, one of the most sought-after big wall climbing prizes that had resisted all prior attempts. By the 21st-century, Josune Bereziartu, Angela Eiter and Ashima Shiraishi, had closed the gap to the highest sport and boulder climbing grades achieved by men to just one/two notches, while Beth Rodden had completely closed the gap for traditional climbing grades by freeing ''Meltdown'', and Janja Garnbret had become the most successful competition climber of all time winning over 31 IFSC world cup gold medals.

Origins

There are many early documented examples of people "rock climbing" to achieve various objectives. For example, the ' records that in 1492, ordered by his king, Antoine de Ville used castle siege tactics to ascend Mont Aiguille, a 300-meter rock tower, near Grenoble, France. In another example from 1695, Martin Martin described the traditional practice of fowling by climbing with the use of ropes in the Hebrides of Scotland, especially on St Kilda.

The first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786, is considered the start of mountaineering's "modern era"; however it would take another century until the fixed anchors of rock climbing appear, including pitons, bolts, and rappel slings. By the early 19th-century, "alpine rock climbing" was developing as a pastime, and using the tools of the alpine shepherd guides (many who would become mountain guides), the alpenstock and woodcutter's axe (which would be combined as the ice axe).

Although the action of rock climbing had become a component of 19th-century victorian era Alpine mountaineering, a sport of rock climbing (i.e. climbing short rock routes as a recreational activity without any summit objective), originated in the last quarter of the 19th-century, and in four European locations: the Saxon Switzerland climbing region in Germany,Goldammer, Albert & Wächtler, Martin (1936). "Bergsteigen in Sachsen", Dresden the Lake District and Peak District in England,Jones, Owen Glynne (1900). ''Rock Climbing in the English Lake District'', G. P. Abraham & Sons, Keswick the Dolomites in Italy,''Bergakrobaten: Die Dolomiten und die Erfindung des Kletterns'', Città di Bolzano, Bolzano 2006 and in the forest of Fontainebleau in France.

* The solo first ascent of Napes Needle in the Lake District, England, by Walter Parry Haskett Smith in June 1886 is widely considered to be the start of the ''sport'' of rock climbing. In 1897, O. G. Jones climbed Kern Knotts Crack at grade VS. By the early 20th-century, groups of 60 would gather at the Wastwater Hotel in the Lake District during vacations.Hankinson, Alan (1972). ''The First Tigers'', J. M. Dent & Sons, London

* Inspired by late 19th-century pioneers such as on Falkenstein, by 1903 there were 500 climbers in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, including the well-known team of Rudolf Fehrmann and American Oliver Perry-Smith; their 1906 ascent of Teufelsturm at grade VIIb, set new standards of difficulty. By the 1930s, there were 200 climbing clubs in the area.

* The 1887 solo first ascent of the Vajolet Towers by the 17-year-old Munich high school student Georg Winkler, encouraged the acceptance and development of the sport in the Dolomites, and in particular opened up the era of big wall climbing on the huge rock faces of the Dolomites, which spread over the wider Alps including the important centre of Chamonix in France.

* By 1897, members of the French Club alpin français began to gather amongst the boulders of Fontainebleau to practice their rock climbing skills that they would use in the Alpine season; the boulders were shorter than the large walls being attempted in the Lake District, Saxon Switzerland or the Dolomites, but this lead to the development of more advanced bouldering skills.

19th century

*1848: , a local chimney sweep, enters the hill-top Königstein Fortress by climbing a chimney in the sandstone plateau to avoid the entrance fee; this is now considered the first free climb in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, and is today a climbing route called ''Abratzkykamin'' IV ( ca 5.4).
*1857: John Ball, future president of the British Alpine Club, makes an early first ascent of Monte Pelmo, in the Dolomites.Die Besteigung der Berge - Die Dolomitgipfel werden erobert (German: The ascent of the mountains - the dolomite peaks are conquered)
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*1859–1869: Paul Grohmann makes numerous first ascents of rocky spires in the Dolomites, such as Tofana di Mezzo, Sorapiss, Cristallo and Langkofel.
*1864: Gustav Tröger, Ernst Fischer, J. Wähnert and H. Frenzel, aid climb ''Turnerweg'' on Falkenstein, formally starting the sport in Saxon Switzerland.
*1869 : John Muir, the naturalist and climber, makes an onsight free solo of Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite.
*1874: Otto Ewald Ufer and H. Frick make the first-ever first free ascent (no aid) of Mönch, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region.
*1875 : George Anderson climbs Half Dome in Yosemite, using drilled eye bolts for holds, and a fixed rope to return to his high point each day.Climbing in North America, by Chris Jones
*1876: Donald McDonald, a crofter from the Isle of Lewis climbs Handa, the first recorded climb for leisure in Britain.
*1876: invents the basic body rappel in the French Alps; its most useful form, the dülfersitz, is invented in 1910 by Hans Dülfer.

*1881: Benedikt Venetz leads Albert Mummery and Alex Burgener on the first ascent of the Aiguille du Grépon, Chamonix, 10-pitches, and the famous 40-foot ''Fissure Mummery'' "Mummery Crack", the 5.6 crux, is maybe first-ever grade HS 4b.
*1881: Michael Innerkofler and ascend the Kleine Zinne in the Cima Piccola, Tre Cime di Lavaredo), Sexten Dolomites, at .
*1886 : June, W. P. Haskett Smith free soloed the 70-foot '' Napes Needle'' ( V Diff), in the Lake District of England; this is considered the "birth" of the sport.
*1887 : Georg Winkler, aged 17, free soloed the Vajolet Towers (5.5, 7-pitches), initiating the sport in the Dolomites, and the use of hemp-soled sailor's boots.
*1892 : Oscar Eckenstein, early bouldering advocate, runs a competition, with cash prizes, among the natives while on an expedition to the Karakoram Mountains.
*1892: Steel carabiners appear in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region; they can hold static body weight but are not reliably strong for dynamic leader falls.
*1893: Lily Bristow is the first-ever female to summit the difficult Aiguille du Grepon, in Chamonix, France.
*1893 : Devils Tower is aid climbed by ranchers William Rogers and Willard Ripley; after 6 weeks they summit on the Fourth of July.
*1897: O. G. Jones leads, after top rope, ''Kern Knotts Crack'' at VS 4c on the Great Gable in England; potentially the first .

1900s

*1900: (approximately) : Oscar Eckenstein demonstrates the concept of modern ''balance climbing'' on his eponymous bouldering route in Llanberis Pass, Wales.
*1900 : free soloed onsight ''Piaz Route'' on Punta Emma, Catinaccio, in the Dolomites, Italy, at 5.7 (7-pitches).
*1900 : Heinrich Pfannel, Thomas Maischberger, and Franz Zimmer do the first-ever first free ascent on the ''Southwest Face'' of Dent du Géant, in Chamonix, France, bypassing all spikes, ropes, and ladders.
*1901 : Michele Bettaga, Beatrice Tomasson, Artolo Zagonel make the first ascent of the ''South Face'' of Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy in a day; first big wall climb (5.5, using 4 pitons for anchors on 24-pitches).
*1906 : Oliver Perry-Smith, W. Hünig, Rudolf Fehrmann climb ''Perrykante'' on Teufelsturm, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region; 90-feet, Sax VIIb; world's first-ever grade route.
*1908 : , J. Klammer, R. Schietzold, F Schroffenegger, make the first ascent of the ''West Face'' of Totenkirchl, Austria, UIAA Grade V (5.7 with a tension traverse) 19 pitches.
*1909 : (approximately) Felt-soled rock climbing shoes are introduced.

1910s

*1910 : replaces the attached ring on pitons with an eye in the body of the piton, a design still used to this day.
*1910 : designs and utilizes a stronger, user-friendly, steel carabiner, specifically made for tension traverses with modern pitons.
*1910 : , Oliver Perry-Smith, and H. Wagner ascend the ''Großer Falknerturm'' on Matthäusriß, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, Sax VIIb, maybe the first .
*1910 : leads ''Südriss'' on Kreuzturm, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, Sax VIIc, and hardest short climb for a decade, the first-ever .
*1910 : Angelo Dibona, G. Mayer, M. Mayer, A. Dimai, L. Rizzi climb the 2,500-foot ''North Face'' of , in the Dolomites, UIAA V+ (5.8).
*1910 : Franz Schroffenegger and Franz Wenter climb the 450-metre ''Northwest Face'' of Delago Tower, and the 500-metre ''North Face'' of Croda di Re Laurino, in the Dolomites. UIAA Grade VI- (5.9-).
*1911 : Paul Preuss free soloed the first ascent of the 900-foot ''East Face'' of Campanile Basso, in the Italian Dolomites, on friable rock.
*1911 : September, Paul Preuss, starts the '' Mauerhakenstreit (piton dispute)'' and advocates for a transition to free climbing; in a series of essays and articles in the '' German Alpine Journal'', he defines " artificial aid" and proposes 6 rules of free climbing including the important rule 4: "The piton is an emergency aid and not the basis of a system of mountaineering".
*1912 : Angelo Dibona, Luigi Rizzi, and brothers Guido and Max Mayer, climb the ''South Face'' of the Meije, in the Massif des Écrins, France.
*1913 : Hans Dülfer free soloed, onsight, the 250-metre ''Dülferriss'' on the Fleischbank, in Austria, at UIAA VI- (5.9-) (6-pitches).
*1913 : Hans Dülfer and Willi von Redwitz, climb the 700-metre ''West Face Direct'', on Totenkirchl, in Austria, at UIAA V+ (5.8 X), in 8 hours (23-pitches, longest rock climb to date).
*1913 : Hans Dülfer, with only 3 pitons, leads the ''West Face'' Cima Grande, in the Dolomites, at 5.8 X (8-pitches); he invents a 5-step grading system, the rope tension traverse, and dülfersitz rappelling.
*1913 : Rudolf Fehrmann publishes the second edition of ''Der Bergsteiger in der Sächsischen Schweiz'' (''The Climber in Saxon Switzerland''), which includes the first binding rules for climbing in the area to protect the soft sandstone rock. These include that only natural holds of the rock are allowed for climbing. These rules for free climbing are still in use and haven't changed significantly.
*1914 : Siegfried Herford and companions, climb, using shoulder stands, the ''Flake Pitch'' on the Central Buttress of Scafell (5.8 A0, 5.9 today), Britain's hardest climb at the time (3-pitches).
*1916 : Ivar Berg free soloed the 60-foot ''Cave Arête Indirect'' at Laddow Rocks, Derbyshire, England, at E1 5a (5.9+), it was the first E1.Craggs, Chris (2009). "Western Grit", Rockfax, Sheffield
*1918 : climbs, unprotected, ''Westkante'' at the Wilder Kopf, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, at Sax VIIIa, the world's first-ever , (2-pitches).

1920s

*1920s–1930s : Robert L. M. Underhill and Miriam Underhill (Miriam E. O'Brien), Early climbing couples; Robert introduced ''European climbing techniques'' in an article in the 1931 ''Bulletin of the Sierra Club''.
*1921 : Oswald Kunis leads the unprotected ''Kuniskante'' on Rauschentorwächter, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region. Sax VIIIa/VIIIb, the world's first-ever .
*1921 : and Gustav Haber climb the 1,000-foot ''Ha-He Dihedral'' UIAA VI+ (5.9+) at , in Austria, in 2 days of climbing; would not be repeated until the 1950s.
*1922 : Hans Rost leads, with 2 protection rings, the run-out on ''Rostkante'', on Hauptwiesenstein, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region. Sax VIIIb, the world's first-ever .
*1922 : and party ascend the unprotected ''Illmerweg'' on Falkenstein, Sax VIIc or , in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region; famous overhang known as "the mailbox".
*1923 : , adding to Dülfer's five grades, creates the Roman Numeral European rating system for rock climbs (Grades I to VI); this system eventually became UIAA grading.
*1924 : Felix Simon and Roland Rossi climb the 850-metre ''North Face'' of Monte Pelmo, in the Dolomites, Italy, at UIAA V+, placing 11 pitons.
*1925 : July 28, Fritz Wiessner, Roland Rossi climb Southeast Face of Fleischbank, Austria, at VI+/5.10a, 11-pitches with 4 free pitches at Grade VI, a tension traverse pitch, and an aid pitch over a roof.
*1925 : August 1, and Fritz Wiessner climb the 750-metre ''North Face'' of Furchetta, Dolomites, a 20-pitch route and two pitches of UIAA VI (5.9) near the top.
*1925 : August 7, Gustav Lettenbauer and climb the 1,200-metre ''NW Face'' of Civetta, Dolomites in a day, UIAA VI- ( 5.9), 44-pitches, 15 pitons; world's hardest big wall climb.
*1925 : Albert Ellingwood and a party of three climb the 2,000-foot '' Northeast Buttress'' (or the Ellingwood Ledges) on the Crestone Needle (14,197 feet), in Colorado, USA, at grade .
*1927 : designs and sells the first rock drill and climbing expansion bolt.
*1927 : Joe Stettner and brother, Paul, apply European techniques in the USA on their ascent of the 9-pitch ''Stettner Ledges'' (5.7) on the East Face of Long's Peak.
*1927 : Fred Pigott experiments with slinging natural chockstones, and later machine nuts, for protection at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu on Snowdon, and lead to the modern climbing nut.
*1929 : , Demitrio Christomannos, Roberto Perathoner make, in 2 days and placing only 6 pitons, the first ascent of the South Pillar of Marmolada, 5.9+, 600-meters, Dolomites.
*1929 : Miriam Underhill and Alice Damesme make the first "manless" ascent of the Aiguille du Grépon, in Chamonix, France.

1930s

*1930 : Jack Longland leads, onsight, ''Javelin Blade'' at Hollytree Wall, Idwal, at E1 5b ( 5.10a X) with forty-foot runout at the crux.
*1931 : Emilio Comici invents the aid ladder, solid belay anchors, taglining, and hanging bivouacs; tools that changed big wall climbing. He used them all on his 3-day, 57-pitch, 1500-metre climb of the ''Northwest Face'' of the Civetta, in the Dolomites, mostly free (5.9+ with 3 aid sections, only 35 pitons).
*1931 : Robert Underhill leads the first ascent of the ''North Ridge'' of Grand Teton, WY. About 1,500 ft. (5.7)
*1932 : and Giuani Rifesser climb Furchetta ''North Face'' route, Dolomites, adding a dangerous, 5-pitch direct finish, UIAA VII- (5.10b/c X), only 5 new protection pitons.
*1933 : Emilio Comici, Giuseppi Dimai and Angelo Dimai climb, in 3 days, the 1,700-foot ''North Face Dimai Route'' of Cima Grande, in the Dolomites, at 5.9 and 3 aid pitches; becomes the world's most overhanging big wall climbing route.
*1933 : and Vincenzo Peristi climb the ''North Face'' of , in the Dolomites, UIAA VII- (5.10c) (6-pitches).
*1934 : Pierre Allain champions bouldering at Fontainebleau; climbs ''L'Angle Allain'', .
*1934 : Dick Leonard, Jules Eichorn and Bestor Robinson made the first ascent of the Eichorn Pinnacle, at Cathedral Peak in the Sierra Nevada.
*1934 : , Bartolo Sandri climb, in 2 days, the 750-metre ''South Face'' of Torre Trieste, Dolomites, UIAA VIII-, the world's first-ever but questions remain over the credibility of the climb (35-pitches).
*1935 : Riccardo Cassin, climb the 700-metre ''North Face'' of Cima Ovest, in the Dolomites, takes 3 days and 60 pitons, 5.9 and 3 aid sections. Most committing big wall climbing to date.
*1935 : Fritz Wiessner and Roger Whitney, using only 1 protection piton, climb ''Vector'', on Ragged Mountain, Connecticut, rated 5.8+ R, likely 5.9, the hardest pitch in the USA for a decade.
*1935 : Pierre Allain, added a rubber band to a tennis shoe as a climbing shoe; later, in 1947, with Edmond Bourdonneau (EB), he markets a stiffer, flat-soled edging shoe, the "PA".
*1936 : and Ettore Castiglioni free climb, in two days, a 29-pitch route on the Marmolada, Dolomites, UIAA VII- (5.10c). Hardest long, totally-free climb in the world.
*1937 : develops and sells the first leather boots with "lug-soled rubber" (called tank-tread) for rock climbing, mountaineering, and hiking; called "Vibram soles".
*1937 : Emilio Comici re-climbs the ''North Face Dimai Route'' route on the Cima Grande alone, with some gear but no rope, mostly free-solo (5.9), but pulling on some pitons, in three and a half hours.
*1938 : Riccardo Cassin, Gino Esposito, Ugo Tizzoni ascend, in 3 days, the classic, alpine, 3,500-foot '' Walker Spur'' of the Grandes Jorasses "...perhaps the finest in existence" Gaston Rébuffat.
*1939 : David Brower and the rest of his Berkeley crew use four bolts in the process of ascending Ship Rock in New Mexico.

1940s

*1940s : World War II leads to the development of inexpensive, army-surplus pitons, carabiners and the newly invented nylon rope, making leader falls significantly safer.
*1945 : Chris Preston, after a top rope, leads, with no protection, the two pitches of ''Suicide Wall'', in Ogwen, Wales, at E2 5c (5.10c X).
*1946 : and Sepp Spiegl create an 8-pitch route on Fleischbank, Austria, UIAA VII (5.10d) with four hard pitches: VII, VII-, VI, VI-.
*1946 : solves ''Marie-Rose'', in Fontainebleau, France, considered one of the first-ever boulder problems.
*1947 : Pierre Allain, in France, and Raffi Bedayn, in the USA, market lightweight, aluminum carabiners for climbing, significantly reducing the weight carried by climbers.
*1947 : , and Franz Lorenz lead a traditional climbing route ''Nordverschneidung'', on , Austria, the world's hardest big wall climbing route at UIAA VII (21-pitches).
*1949 : Harold Goodro leads ''Goodro's Wall'', 5.10c, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT, 80 feet. Hardest short climb in the USA.
*1949 : Peter Harding leads, after a top rope, the traditional climbing route ''Demon Rib'', at Black Rocks, in the UK, at E3 5c is one of the world's first-ever routes.

1950s

*1950 : John Salathe and Allen Steck climb '' Steck-Salathe'' on Sentinel Rock, Yosemite, 5.8 A3, in a 5-day push. 16 pitches. Yosemite's longest wall climb.
*1951 : Joe Brown, wearing tennis shoes, onsighted ''Right Eliminate'', at E3 5c or , at Curbar Edge, UK, a poorly-protected off-width crack that is 50 feet long.
*1952 : Lionel Terray, Guido Magnone make the first ascent of Mount Fitzroy (11,020 feet), Patagonia, 16 pitches of Alpine rock climbing, 5.9 with some aid.
*1952 : Bonnie Prudden leads the first ascent of ''Bonnie's Roof,'' (5.8, A0) Shawangunks, NY. 2 pitches.
*1952 : John Streetly leads, onsight, the first free ascent of ''Bloody Slab'', at E3 5b (5.10a X), in Llanberis Pass, in Wales
*1952 : Chuck Wilts publishes ''A Climber's Guide to Tahquitz Rock'' starting the Yosemite Decimal System, where climbs are rated from 5.0 to 5.9.
*1952 : Cesare Maestri makes the first free solo of the 44-pitch ''Solleder Route'' on Monte Civetta, in the Dolomites, at grade UIAA VI- (5.9-).
*1952 : Joe Brown, threading pebbles for protection, leads ''Cenotaph Corner'', in Dinas Cromlech, Wales, one of the boldest traditional climbing routes at E1 5c or .
*1952 : Harry Rost leads ''Talseite'' on Schwager, Schrammsteine, in Saxon Switzerland, at Sax VIIIc (free at IXa) or , one of the world's hardest routes.
*1952 : Hermann Buhl, free soloed the first free ascent of Piz Badile on the 8th ascent, UIAA VI+ (5.10a), 21 pitches in 5 hours.
*1953 : solves ''Le Joker'', in Fontainebleau, France, considered one of the first-ever boulder problems.
*1953 : invents the "kernmantle rope" with an abrasion-protective outer sheath, making nylon ropes even safer.
*1954 : Joe Brown and Don Whillans climb the ''West Face'' of Aiguille de Blaitiere, 15 pitches including the famous ''Fissure Brown'' ( 5.10b R), in the Alps.
*1955 : Walter Bonatti did one of the greatest big wall climbs in history with a solo, single-push, first ascent of a new route on the ''Southwest Pillar'' of the Dru over six days.
*1957 : and lead the 3,000-foot ''Philipp-Flamm'' on Monte Civetta, in the Dolomites. Longest Apline free climb at UIAA VI+ (5.10 R).
*1957 : Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas, Mike Sherrick climb the '' NW Face of Half Dome'', Yosemite, in 5 days. 25-pitches, 5.7 A3, 275 pitons and 20 direct aid bolts. Birth of modern US big wall climbing; historians split the climbing history of Yosemite into: "before and after Half Dome".
*1958 : leads ''Fledermausweg'' on the Sommerwand, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, Germany, at VIIIc or .
*1958 : John Gill solves ''Gill Right Problem'', in the Teton Range, in Wyoming, the first-ever boulder problem; introduces gymnastic "chalk" to climbing.
*1958 : Warren Harding and team aid climb the 3,000-foot ''Nose'' of El Capitan using ''siege tactics'' (600 pitons and 125 bolts) over 45 days at grade 5.8/A3; climb gets worldwide recognition but is highly controversial amongst climbers for its excessive use of aid climbing techniques.
*1958 : Don Whillans free soloed ''Goliath'', at Burbage, in England, at E4 6a is considered one of the world's first-ever or routes.
*1959 : Royal Robbins and Tom Frost free (except 30-feet) the '' Steck-Salathe'' route on Sentinel Rock, Yosemite, at and 16-pitches, hardest big wall free climb in US.
*1959 : John Gill solves ''Red Cross Overhang'' (or ''Gill Problem''), in the Teton Range, in Wyoming, the first-ever boulder problem.

1960s

*1960 : Dave Rearick and Bob Kamps make the first ascent of ''Diamond'' (5.8 A3), Longs Peak, CO, a 10-pitch, Alpine, Big Wall climb all above 13,000 feet of altitude.
*1961 : Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, and Tom Frost, lead '' Salathe Wall'' on El Capitan in 6-days (484 pitons, 13 bolts); 5.9 A4. Single push by Robbins & Frost in 1962. Spirit of the Age by Pat Ament
*1961 : John Gill makes the first free ascent as an onsight, free solo, of the ''Thimble'', in the Needles, South Dakota, USA, now considered the first-ever .
*1962 : free soloed the 57-pitch ''Comici Route'' on the Monte Civetta, Dolomites, Italy, as grade UIAA VI+.
*1964 : Royal Robbins and Pat Ament free climb ''Athlete's Feat'', Boulder CO. Five very short, hard pitches (5.11a. 5.10d, 5.10d, 5.10c, 5.9). Most difficult multi-pitch in USA.
*1964 : Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, Tom Frost, and Yvon Chouinard climb the 28-pitch ''North American Wall'' on El Capitan, Yosemite, at 5.8/A5, was hardest aid climb.
*1964 : Dan Robinson builds the first climbing wall at Leeds University; after two years on the wall, John Syrett climbs one of Britain's hardest routes, ''Wall of Horrors'' (E3 6a).
*1965 : and Eric Beck lead the first free ascent of ''Direct North Buttress,'' Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, hardest big wall route at (17-pitches).
*1965 : leads ''Königshangel'', on Frienstein, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, first Sax IXa or in Germany, and one of the hardest in the world.
*1965 : Europe's tallest rock face, Norway's 4,000-foot Troll Wall, is aid climbed by Norwegian and British teams who summit a day apart; the wall is rarely repeated.
*1965 : Yvon Chouinard, T M Herbert ascend, in a single push, the 32-pitch ''Muir Wall'' on El Cap, 5.9 A5. First new El Cap route by a party of two.
*1965 : Chuck Pratt and Chris Fredericks climb the classic, 2-pitch, off-width ''Twilight Zone'' in Yosemite, 5.10d X.
*1967 : July, Greg Lowe and Jeff Lowe lead the first free ascent of traditional climbing route ''Macabre Roof'', in Ogden, possibly first-ever (pre ''Super Crack'' in 1974).
*1967 : October, John Stannard leads the first free ascent of traditional climbing route ''Foops'', in the Shawangunks, one of the first-ever routes.
*1968 : Royal Robbins solos on aid (added aid bolt at crux) the ''Muir Wall'' on El Capitan, Yosemite, first time El Capitan is climbed alone (took nine days).
*1968 : Tom Proctor leads the traditional climbing route ''Our Father'' (E4 6b), at Stoney Middleton, England, one of the highest-grade traditional routes at the time.
*1968 : Reinhold Messner onsighted the crux 4-metre ''Messner Slab'' of the longer, 7-pitch, ''Central Pillar'' route of Heiligkreuzkofel, Italy; it is now considered the first-ever in the Alps.

1970s

*1970 : Bernd Arnold leads the traditional climbing route, the ''Schwager Nordwand'', in the Schrammsteine, in the Saxon Switzerland, at Sax IXb, one of the world's first-ever at .
*1970 : Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell aid climb ''Wall of Early Morning Light'' (''Dawn Wall''), on El Capitan, 27 days on the 28-pitches at 5.8/A5.
*1972 : The 1972 ''Chouinard Equipment Catalog'' includes influential articles on "clean climbing" by Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost, and Doug Robinson.
*1973 : May, Henry Barber, free soloed, onsight the '' Steck-Salathe'' route on Sentinel Rock, a notable big wall free solo at (16-pitches).
*1973 : May, John Long leads the traditional climbing route ''Paisano Overhang'', at Suicide Rock, California, considered one of the first-ever (the 1967 ''Macabre Roof'' is also a possible first-ever 7b+).
*1973 : October, Beverly Johnson, Sibylle Hechtel, first female team to ascend El Capitan via ''Triple Direct''; Hechtel called it "Walls without Balls".
*1973 : November, John Bragg leads the traditional climbing route ''Kansas City'', in the Shawangunks, USA, first-ever (John Gosling's ''English Hanging Gardens'' also considered a possible first-ever 7b).
*1974 : Steve Wunsch leads the traditional climbing route ''Super Crack'', in the Shawangunks, USA, considered one of the first-ever .
*1975 : Jim Holloway solves ''Trice'', in Boulder, Colorado, considered the first-ever boulder problem (with Holloway's 1977 ''Slapshot'').
*1975 : Steve Wunsch leads the traditional climbing route ''Psycho Roof'', in Eldorado Canyon State Park, USA, considered the first-ever .
*1975 : Kurt Albert paints his first "Rotpunkt" (or Redpoint) on the base of the aid climb ''Adolf Rott Ged.-Weg'' (V+/A1), in the Frankenjura, signifying he had freed it at .
*1975 : Charlie Porter aid solos the remote big wall, ''Northwest Face'' Mount Asgard, Baffin Island, 40 pitches, 5.10 A4. Alone for 9 days climbing; committing Big Wall climb.
*1975 : Ron Kauk, John Bachar, John Long, lead-free (following on aid) all 12 pitches of ''Astroman'', (5.11c) Yosemite. 5 pitches of 5.11. First continuous free ascent by Kauk in June 1977.
*1976 : Art Higbee, Jim Erickson, free climb the 25-pitch '' NW Face of Half Dome'', Yosemite, at 5.12d (newer variations are 5.12a), leading all but the final 10 ft. 3 pitches of 5.12, 5 of 5.11.
*1976 : Mick Fowler leads, after rehearsal, FFA of ''Linden'', Curbar Edge, UK. E6 6b (5.12a X) 60 ft.
*1976 : Ron Fawcett free soloed ''Slip 'n' Slide'', at Crookrise, North Yorkshire, England, at E6 6a (5.11c X), was one of the hardest-ever free solos at the time.
*1977 : Helmut Kiene, Reinhard Karl make the first ascent of a 10-pitch climb with off-width crux, ''Pumpriße,'' Austria. Officially, the first UIAA Grade VII (5.10d/5.11a). Nuts for protection.
*1977 : Ray Jardine leads the traditional climbing route ''The Phoenix'', in Yosemite Valley, USA, first-ever ; uses his new SLCDs.
*1977 : Lynn Hill leads the traditional climbing route ''Shawangunk Ridge'', in the Shawangunk Mountains, USA, first-ever female .
*1978 : Ron Kauk solves ''Midnight Lightning'', in Camp 4, Yosemite, considered one of the first-ever boulder problems.
*1978 : John Gill solves ''The Groove'', in Pueblo, Colorado, USA, considered the first-ever boulder problem.
*1978 : Ray Jardine sells first spring-loaded camming device ("cams" or "friends"), which he invented years earlier, making traditional climbing crack routes safer.
*1978 : Dave Diegelman, Dale Bard, Jim Bridwell lead the aid climbing route ''Sea of Dreams'' on El Capitan, Yosemite, hardest-ever aid route at 5.9/A5 (27-pitches; 39 drilled holes).
*1979 : leads first free ascent of the traditional climbing route ''Grand Illusion'', at Sugarloaf, Lake Tahoe, USA, first-ever .
*1979 : Lynn Hill leads traditional climbing route ''Ophir Broke'', in Telluride, USA, first-ever female .
*1979 : John Bachar, after rehearsals, free soloed the 3-pitch "Nabisco Wall" via the ''Butterballs'' route in Yosemite, one of the boldest multi-pitch free solos at .
*1979 : Spanish manufacturer Boreal creates a "sticky rubber" board-lasted climbing shoe called ''Firé'' (Fee-ray), which materially increases performance on rock climbs.

1980s

*1980 : Patrick Edlinger onsighted ''La Polka des Ringards'', in Buoux, France, now considered the first-ever onsight at .
*1981 : John Bachar and Dave Yerian lead ''Bachar-Yerian'', Medlicott Dome, Yosemite, a watershed US-multi-pitch route with some bolts at R/X.
*1983 : Ron Fawcett, leads the '' Master's Edge'' at Millstone Quarry, Peak District, England, a breakthrough traditional route at E7 6c (5.12c X).
*1983 : Jerry Moffatt redpointed ''The Face'', in the Altmühltal'' (2022)

{{DEFAULTSORT:History Of Rock Climbing
History
Rock climbing