Wolfgang Güllich
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Wolfgang Güllich
Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992) was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing for most of the decade after his 1984 ascent of ''Kanal im Rücken'', the world's first-ever redpoint of an route. He continued to set more "new hardest grade" breakthroughs than any other climber in sport climbing history, with ''Punks in the Gym'' in 1985, the world's first-ever , ''Wallstreet'' in 1987, the world's first-ever , and with '' Action Directe'' in 1991, the world's first-ever . Güllich was the first-ever person to free solo at grade with his 1986 ascent of ''Weed Killer'', and in that same year did his iconic free solo of '' Separate Reality''. He made first ascents of important new big wall climbing routes on the Trango Towers and the Paine Towers. With long-time climbing partner Kurt Albert, he revolutionized the training techniques for sport ...
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Frankenjura
Franconian Switzerland (german: Fränkische Schweiz) is an upland in Upper Franconia, Bavaria, Germany and a popular tourist retreat. Located between the River Pegnitz in the east and the south, the River Regnitz in the west and the River Main in the north, its relief, which reaches 600 metres in height, forms the northern part of the Franconian Jura (''Frankenjura''). Like several other mountainous landscapes in the German-speaking lands, e.g. Holstein Switzerland, Märkische Schweiz, or Pommersche Schweiz, Franconian Switzerland was given its name by Romantic artists and poets in the 19th century who compared the landscape to Switzerland. Franconian Switzerland is famous for its high density of traditional breweries. Name The region was once called ''Muggendorfer Gebürg'' (''Muggendorf hills''). The first tourists arrived during the age of Romanticism. Two law students of Erlangen University, Ludwig Tieck and Wilhelm Heinrich Wackenroder have been credited as "discoverers" ...
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Redpoint (climbing)
In rock climbing, redpointing means to free-climb a route while lead climbing, but only after having practiced the route beforehand (either by hangdogging or top roping), or after having fallen or rested on the rope, on the first attempt. Climbers will try to redpoint a route after having failed to on-sight it (free climb the route on the first attempt with no falls and no prior information), or flash it (free climb the route on the first attempt with no falls but with prior information). Redpointing is sometimes narrowly defined as climbing a route after a failed first attempt (regardless of how long ago, or how many failures occurred). Description Climbers can rest during a redpoint ascent, but not using the rope or any artificial aids (e.g. they can hang off the holds, or use a kneebar). Where the climber falls on a redpoint ascent, they must return to the very bottom, pull their rope free of the route, and completely re-start the ascent from scratch. Redpointing differs ...
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Lake Tahoe
Lake Tahoe (; was, Dáʔaw, meaning "the lake") is a Fresh water, freshwater lake in the Sierra Nevada (U.S.), Sierra Nevada of the United States. Lying at , it straddles the state line between California and Nevada, west of Carson City, Nevada, Carson City. Lake Tahoe is the largest alpine lake in North America, and at it trails only the five Great Lakes as the List of lakes by volume, largest by volume in the United States. Its depth is , making it the List of lakes by depth, second deepest in the United States after Crater Lake in Oregon (). The lake was formed about two million years ago as part of the Lake Tahoe Basin, and its modern extent was shaped during the Quaternary glaciation, ice ages. It is known for the clarity of its water and the panorama of surrounding mountains on all sides. The area surrounding the lake is also referred to as Lake Tahoe, or simply Tahoe. More than 75% of the lake's Drainage basin, watershed is United States National Forest, national forest ...
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Jerry Moffatt
Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the mid-1980s, and an important climber in the history of the sport. As a sport climber, Moffatt was one of the first climbers in history to onsight routes of grade , , and , and also the first in history to climb routes of grade , and probably . As a competition climber, Moffatt won several of the nascent tour events, and retired ranked first in the world. As a boulder climber, Moffatt was one of the first-ever to solve problems of boulder grade , and . As a traditional climber, Moffatt established some of the most intimidating routes at the time in Britain, which are still rarely repeated, and in particular, the ''Master's Wall'' (E7 6b) in 1983. Moffatt was noted for the intensity of his training, and the co-development of train ...
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First Free Ascent
In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they entail genuine exploration, with greater risks, challenges and recognition than climbing a route pioneered by others. The person who performs the first ascent is called the first ascensionist. In free climbing, a first ascent (or first free ascent, abbreviated FFA) of a climbing route is the first successful, documented climb of a route without using equipment such as anchors or ropes for aiding progression or resting. History The details of the first ascents of even many prominent mountains are scanty or unknown; sometimes the only evidence of prior summiting is a cairn, artifacts, or inscriptions at the top. Today, first ascents are generally carefully recorded and usually mentioned in guidebooks. The term is also used when referri ...
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Traditional Climbing
Traditional climbing (or Trad climbing) is a style of rock climbing in which the climber places all the necessary protection gear required to arrest any falls as they are climbing, and then removes it when the pitch is complete (often done by the second/follow-on climber). Traditional bolted aid climbing means the bolts were placed while on lead and/or with hand drills (the bolts tend to be much farther apart than for sport climbs). Traditional climbing carries a higher level of risk than bolted sport climbing, as the climber may not have placed the safety equipment correctly while trying to ascend the route; for some of the world's hardest climbs (e.g. '' Realization/Biographie''), there may not be sufficient cracks or features in the rock that can accept protection gear, and the climb can only be safely attempted by bolting as a sport climb. Overview Characterizing climbing as ''traditional'' distinguishes it from bolted climbing—either trad bolted or sport climbing ...
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Free Climbing
Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber may use climbing equipment such as ropes and other means of climbing protection, but only to protect against injury during falls and not to assist vertical or horizontal progress. The climber ascends or traverses by using physical ability to move over the rock via handholds, footholds, and body smears. The term ''free climbing'' is used in contrast to aid climbing, in which specific aid climbing equipment (such as mechanical ascenders) is used to assist the climber in ascent. The term ''free climbing'' originally meant "free from direct aid". Free climbing more specifically may include: * traditional climbing * sport climbing * bouldering * solo climbing (excluding solo aid climbing) Common misunderstandings of the term While clear in its contrast to aid climbing, the term ''free climbing'' is nonetheless prone to misunderstanding and misuse. The three most common errors are: * Confusing ''free climbing'' ...
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Reinhard Karl
Reinhard Karl (3 November 1946 – 19 May 1982) was a German mountaineer, photographer and writer. Early life Karl was born in Heidelberg. At the age of 14, he started working as a mechanic apprentice. Later on, he joined night classes to complete high school. When he was admitted to daily school, he left his work as a mechanic to continue his studies in Frankfurt. He later became a professional mountain photographer and also wrote several books. At the beginning of his career, climbing during weekends was his way to escape from his work as a mechanic, which he disliked. He discovered his passion for mountains thanks to his readings; in his autobiography he specifically mentions ''Achttausend drüber und drunter'' by Hermann Buhl and a book on Everest's ascent by Edmund Hillary. His mother encouraged him by sending him to the Mountain Club in Heidelberg, where he met Hermann Kühn, partner in several ascents, including the Eiger's north face. Climbing experience Karl's caree ...
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Palatinate (region)
The Palatinate (german: Pfalz; Palatine German: ''Palz'') is a region of Germany. In the Middle Ages it was known as the Rhenish Palatinate (''Rheinpfalz'') and Lower Palatinate (''Unterpfalz''), which strictly speaking designated only the western part of the Electorate of the Palatinate (''Kurfürstentum Pfalz''), as opposed to the Upper Palatinate (''Oberpfalz''). It occupies roughly the southernmost quarter of the German federal state of Rhineland-Palatinate (''Rheinland-Pfalz''), covering an area of with about 1.4 million inhabitants. Its residents are known as Palatines (''Pfälzer''). Geography The Palatinate borders Saarland in the west, historically also comprising the state's Saarpfalz District. In the northwest, the Hunsrück mountain range forms the border with the Rhineland region. The eastern border with Hesse and the Baden region runs along the Upper Rhine river, while the left bank, with Mainz and Worms as well as the Selz basin around Alzey, belong to th ...
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Aid Climbing
Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which standing on or pulling oneself up via devices attached to fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress. The term contrasts with free climbing in which progress is made without using artificial aids: a free climber ascends by only holding onto and stepping on natural features of the rock, using rope and equipment merely to catch them in case of fall and provide belay. In general, aid techniques are reserved for pitches where free climbing is difficult to impossible, and extremely steep and long routes demanding great endurance and both physical and mental stamina. While aid climbing places less emphasis on athletic fitness and raw strength than free climbing, the physical demands of hard aid climbing should not be underestimated. In early versions of the Yosemite Decimal System, aid climbing was class 6, but today the YDS uses only classes 1-5. Aid climbing has its own ranking system, using a separate scale from A0 thro ...
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Chris Sharma
Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Realization/Biographie'', the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Gullich (who held it for almost a decade from the early 1980s), and passed it to Adam Ondra (who held it from 2012). In 2008, Sharma redpointed the world's first-ever consensus route with ''Jumbo Love'', and in 2013, became only the second-ever person to climb a route with ''La Dura Dura''. Sharma is also known for soloing the world's first-ever ('' Es Pontàs'' in 2007), and (''Alasha'' in 2016) deep-water solo routes. Sharma became one of the most commercially successful climbers in his sport, and was ...
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Kurt Albert
Kurt Albert (January 28, 1954 – September 28, 2010) was a climber and photographer. He started climbing at the age of 14. Before he committed himself to a career of climbing in 1986, he was a mathematics and physics teacher. Climbing career At the age of seventeen, he climbed the Walker Spur in the Grandes Jorasses, and one year later he climbed the north face of the Eiger. After a visit to the Saxon Switzerland climbing area in Saxony, Germany in 1973 he recognized the potential of free climbing. He started to free climb in his home climbing area, the Frankenjura. In the routes, he would now try to ascend while free climbing, he would—in between attempts—paint a red 'X' on the rocks near pitons he did not need as holds or steps. Once he could place a red 'X' on all the pitons and hooks in the route, and was thus able to free climb the entire route, he would paint a red dot at the base of the route. From this comes the English term "redpoint", which is derived fr ...
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