Sportroccia
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Sportroccia
Sportroccia was the very first international climbing competition. Four annual Sportroccia editions were held in 1985, 1986, 1988, and 1989, in the village of Bardonecchia and Arco, Italy. History The first edition of Sportroccia was organized in 1985 on the initiative of Andrea Mellano, a strong climber of the '60s and a member of the Italian Academic Alpine Club, and the journalist and writer Emmanuel Cassara. The jury was composed of Riccardo Cassin, Oscar Soravito, Maurizio Zanolla and Heinz Mariacher. The competition was contested on the Parete dei Militi (Wall of the Soldiers) in Valle Stretta, near Bardonecchia. The fact that the races were held on the rock and not on artificial walls put the organizers in the vanguard of several issues that eventually led to moving climbing competitions to artificial walls only. * In 1985 and 1986, Sportroccia was also used to proclaim the Italian champion, giving the title to the best Italian athletes within the competition. * In 1986 ...
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Catherine Destivelle
Catherine Destivelle (born 24 July 1960) is a French rock climber and mountaineer who is considered one of the greatest and most important female climbers in the history of the sport. She came to prominence in the mid-1980s for sport climbing by winning the first major female climbing competitions, and by being the first-ever female to redpoint a sport climbing route with ''Fleur de Rocaille'' in 1985, and an route with ''Choucas'' in 1988. During this period, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world along with the US climber Lynn Hill, however, in 1990 she retired to focus on alpine climbing. In 1990, she made the first-ever female alpine ascent of the ''Bonatti Pillar'' on the Petit Dru, which she followed up in 1991, by becoming the first-ever female to create a new extreme alpine route, also on the Petit Dru, which was named ''Voie Destivelle'' in her honor. From 1992 to 1994, Destivelle became the first female to complete the winter alpine fr ...
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Lynn Hill
Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall traditional climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the world during the late 1980s and early 1990s, she is famous for making the first free ascent of the difficult sheer rock face of '' The Nose'' on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, and for repeating it the next year in less than 24 hours. She has been described as both one of the best female climbers in the world and one of the best climbers in the history of the sport. One of the first successful women in the sport, Hill shaped rock climbing for women and became a public spokesperson, helping it gain wider popularity and arguing for sex equality. Hill has publicized climbing by appearing on television shows and documentaries and writing an autobiography, '' Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World''. Hill was a gymnast early in life, near ...
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Patrick Edlinger
Patrick Edlinger (15 June 1960 – 16 November 2012) was a professional French rock climber. Edlinger is considered a pioneer and a legend of sport climbing. He was the second-ever climber in history to ascend routes of grade with ''Nymphodalle'' (1979), and grade with ''Le Toit'' (1981). He was the first-ever climber in history to onsight routes of grade with ''Captain crochet'' (1982), and grade with ''La Polka des Ringards'' (1982). Early life Patrick Edlinger was born in 1960 in Dax, Landes, in southwestern France. He was barely a teenager when he began climbing and, after attaining his first job as a truck driver, decided he loved cliffs more than highways.Davison, Phil (2 December 2012)"Patrick Edlinger: ‘The god of free climbing’ who became a national hero in France" ''The Independent''. Career In 1983 he made the first ascent of ''Ça Glisse Au Pays des Merveilles'' at Buoux, one of the first in France. He won some of the first climbing competitions in hist ...
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Stefan Glowacz
Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965 in Tittmoning) is a German professional rock climber and adventurer. He started climbing at the age of 12 and advanced to one of the world's best sports climbers only few years later. Since 1993 he has been devoted to natural challenges such as expeditions to remote places in Canada, Patagonia and Antarctica. Success in sport climbing * 1985 Sportroccia * 1987, 1988, 1992 Rock Master * Winner of the Olympic Games' demonstration challenge in Albertville * 1993 Vice World Champion Notable ascents * In 1994, Glowacz freed ' (translated: ''The Emperor's new Clothes'') in the Kaiser Mountains at (X+/8b+/5.14a), one of the hardest-ever big wall climbing routes in world. * First ascents of big walls at the Una Peaks (Cape Renard Towers) in Antarctica; Tupilak and Ulamartorsuaq, respectively in Eastern and Southern Greenland; and Mount Harrison Smith in Canada * In 2001, Glowacz became the first-ever person to complete the "" of the hardest m ...
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Isabelle Patissier
Isabelle Patissier (born March 1, 1967) is a French world champion rock climber and more recently a rally driver. She is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups (1990, 1991) and for being the first-ever woman in history to climb an route Climbing career Patissier started climbing at age 5 or 6 with her parents. At 14 she practised mountaineering in Chamonix and also slalom and downhill skiing. In 1986 at the age of 19, she won the first French official climbing competition, taking place in the sportshall in Vaulx-en-Velin only steps from her highschool, climbing barefoot. After this she devoted herself full-time to climbing and in 1988 became both the first woman to climb an 8b (''Sortilèges'' at Cimaï) and French champion. She subsequently won this title a further 3 times. Personal life Between 1993 and 1996 she was married to Nicolas Hulot a TV presenter and writer. In 1995 she retired from climbing. In 2000, she made her motorsport debut in the Rallye Aicha des G ...
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Bardonecchia
Bardonecchia (; french: Bardonèche or ; pms, Bardonecia ; oc, Bardonescha ) is an Italian town and ''comune'' located in the Metropolitan City of Turin, in the Piedmont region, in the western part of Susa Valley. It grew out of a small village with the works for the Frejus Rail Tunnel, the first crossing the Alps. The town hosted the snowboarding events of the 2006 Winter Olympics. Geography The town, which is located about from Turin at the intersection of four valleys, is surrounded by mountains, including several whose peaks surpass . The historic center is set back and elevated (Borgo Vecchio), while the new part of town was built around the train station (Borgo Nuovo). The town has grown thanks to activities related to customs, logistics, and tourism; as a result, it has incorporated some neighboring villages and thus is one of the largest towns in the Susa Valley. Bardonecchia is at one end of both the Fréjus Road Tunnel and the Fréjus Rail Tunnel, part of a TGV ...
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Climbing Competition
A climbing competition (or comp) is usually held indoors on purpose built climbing walls. There are three main types of climbing competition: lead, speed, and bouldering. In lead climbing, the competitors start at the bottom of a route and must climb it within a certain time frame in a single attempt, making sure to clip the rope into pre-placed quickdraws along the route. Bouldering competitions consist of climbing short problems without rope, with the emphasis on number of problems completed and the attempts necessary to do so. Speed climbing can either be an individual or team event, with the person or team that can climb a standardized route the fastest winning. The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) organizes some of the most important international sport climbing competitions, including the Climbing World Championships and the Climbing World Cup. Sport climbing was featured at the Summer Olympics for the first time in 2020. Disciplines Lead climbing ...
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Jerry Moffatt
Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the mid-1980s, and an important climber in the history of the sport. As a sport climber, Moffatt was one of the first climbers in history to onsight routes of grade , , and , and also the first in history to climb routes of grade , and probably . As a competition climber, Moffatt won several of the nascent tour events, and retired ranked first in the world. As a boulder climber, Moffatt was one of the first-ever to solve problems of boulder grade , and . As a traditional climber, Moffatt established some of the most intimidating routes at the time in Britain, which are still rarely repeated, and in particular, the ''Master's Wall'' (E7 6b) in 1983. Moffatt was noted for the intensity of his training, and the co-development of train ...
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Simon Nadin
Simon Nadin (born 10 July 1965) is a British rock climber and professional photographer, who won the first ever IFSC Climbing World Cup in 1989. Climbing Nadin was a climbing all-rounder and pioneered routes which set new levels in climbing. He started climbing on gritstone outcrops, such as The Roaches, near his home in Buxton and using nuts made in his school metalwork lessons. Within a year of starting climbing he was climbing at E6 level and in later years frequently onsight-soloed E4, E5 or harder routes. In 1989, having only been a professional climber for six months, he became the first IFSC Climbing World Cup champion, beating Didier Raboutou at the final round in Lyon, with an audience of 8000 people (Jerry Moffatt finished 3rd). He also came first in that round of the World Cup winning £3000 for this. Nadin was nearly disqualified twice for late arrival due to not seeing instructions put up in the official hotel, as the UK team was staying in a youth hostel. Later ...
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Rock Master
Rock Master is an international climbing competition held every year in Arco, Italy. The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of the two events. On Friday the athletes are given a chance to survey the work route, and the actual climbing takes place on Saturday and Sunday. At the competition, two prestigious awards, known as the "Oscars of climbing", are presented: the Salewa Rock Award, and the La Sportiva Competition Award. History In 1985 it was disputed for the first time Sportroccia to Bardonecchia. The following year the event was tied to a stop at the side of the Colodri of Arc. Right on the wall of the Colodri in 1987, played in the first Rock Master. The following year, the race left the rock and from that moment is played only on artificial in a large open space at the base of Colodri. Since 1999, in addition to lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing ...
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Didier Raboutou
__NOTOC__ Didier is a French masculine given name and surname common throughout the Romance languages. It comes from the Ancient Roman names Didius and Desiderius. During the 5th century AD, with the Christianisation of ancient pagan names, it has become associated with the name ''Desiderius'', related to Latin ''desiderium'' – which can be translated as "ardent desire" or "the longed-for". List Notable people with the name include: Given name * Didier Agathe (born 1975), French footballer * Didier André (born 1974), French race car driver * Didier Boulaud (born 1950), French senate member * Didier Burkhalter (born 1960), Swiss politician * Didier of Cahors (c. 580–655), Desiderius or (saint) Didier, French saint * Didier Couécou (born 1944), French footballer * Didier Daeninckx (born 1949), French crime writer and politician * Didier Delsalle (born 1957), French helicopter pilot * Didier Deschamps (born 1968), French international footballer and manager * Didier Diderot (1 ...
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Jean-Baptiste Tribout
Jean-Baptiste Tribout, or J.B. Tribout (born 14 December 1961) is a French rock climber and sport climber. Climbing history Tribout started climbing aged seven in Fontainebleau, France with his grandfather, a mountaineer, and also joined the youth section of the French Alpine Club. There he met other young climbers such as Catherine Destivelle. In 1982, he climbed his first 8a, ''Fritz the Cat'', at Saussois and in 1985 climbed his first 8b, ''Les braves gens'', in the Verdon Gorge. Between 1986 and 1998, he participated in international sport climbing competitions, finishing third twice and fourth twice in the final standings of the World Cup. In 2008, aged 47, twelve years after he had last climbed an 8c graded climb, he climbed two 8c routes. Competition Record World Cup World Championship European Championship Rock Master Notable Ascents 8c+/5.14c *''The Connexion'' - Orgon - 1994 - First ascent (combination of ''Macumba Club'' and ''The Bronx'') *''Sup ...
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