Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965 in
Tittmoning
Tittmoning () is a town in the district of Traunstein, in Bavaria, Germany.
Geography
It is situated in the historic Rupertiwinkel region, on the left bank of the river Salzach, which forms the border with the municipality of Ostermiething in th ...
) is a German professional
rock climber
Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically an ...
and adventurer.
He started climbing at the age of 12 and advanced to one of the world's best sports climbers only few years later. Since 1993 he has been devoted to natural challenges such as expeditions to remote places in Canada,
Patagonia
Patagonia () refers to a geographical region that encompasses the southern end of South America, governed by Argentina and Chile. The region comprises the southern section of the Andes Mountains with lakes, fjords, temperate rainforests, and g ...
and
Antarctica
Antarctica () is Earth's southernmost and least-populated continent. Situated almost entirely south of the Antarctic Circle and surrounded by the Southern Ocean, it contains the geographic South Pole. Antarctica is the fifth-largest cont ...
.
Success in sport climbing
* 1985
Sportroccia
Sportroccia was the very first international climbing competition. Four annual Sportroccia editions were held in 1985, 1986, 1988, and 1989, in the village of Bardonecchia and Arco, Italy.
History
The first edition of Sportroccia was organized i ...
* 1987, 1988, 1992
Rock Master
Rock Master is an international climbing competition held every year in Arco, Italy. The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of th ...
* Winner of the Olympic Games' demonstration challenge in
Albertville
Albertville (; Arpitan: ''Arbèrtvile'') is a subprefecture of the Savoie department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region in Southeastern France.
It is best known for hosting the 1992 Winter Olympics and Paralympics. In 2018, the commune had ...
* 1993 Vice
World Champion
A world championship is generally an international competition open to elite competitors from around the world, representing their nations, and winning such an event will be considered the highest or near highest achievement in the sport, game, ...
Notable ascents
* In 1994, Glowacz freed ' (translated: ''The Emperor's new Clothes'') in the
Kaiser Mountains
The Kaiser Mountains (german: Kaisergebirge, meaning ''Emperor Mountains'') are a mountain range in the Northern Limestone Alps and Eastern Alps. Its main ridges – are the Zahmer Kaiser and south of it the Wilder Kaiser. The mountains are s ...
at (X+/8b+/5.14a), one of
the hardest-ever big wall climbing routes in world.
* First ascents of big walls at the
Una Peaks (Cape Renard Towers) in Antarctica; Tupilak and Ulamartorsuaq, respectively in Eastern and Southern
Greenland
Greenland ( kl, Kalaallit Nunaat, ; da, Grønland, ) is an island country in North America that is part of the Kingdom of Denmark. It is located between the Arctic and Atlantic oceans, east of the Canadian Arctic Archipelago. Greenland i ...
; and Mount Harrison Smith in Canada
* In 2001, Glowacz became the first-ever person to complete the "" of the hardest multi-pitch big wall climbing routes of the Alps (all established in 1994), including
Thomas Huber
Thomas Huber (born 18 November 1966 in Palling, Bavaria) is a German climber and mountaineer. He lives in Berchtesgaden with his family. His brother and climbing partner is Alexander Huber and the two are called "Huberbuam" (Huberboys) in the B ...
's "End of Silence" (X/8b/5.13d) near
Berchtesgaden and
Beat Kammerlander's "Silbergeier" ("Silver Vulture") (X/8b/5.13d) in the
Rätikon
The Rätikon is a mountain range of the Central Eastern Alps, located at the border between Vorarlberg, Liechtenstein and Graubünden. It is the geological border between the Eastern and Western Alps and stretches from the Montafon as far as ...
* In 2006, he was nominated for the
Piolet d'Or
An ice axe is a multi-purpose hiking and climbing tool used by mountaineers in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve snow, ice, or frozen conditions. Its use depends on the terrain: in its simplest role it is used like a walking ...
' for a 27-pitch route (IX+/7c+/5.13a, A2, M4) up the north wall of the Mullarón in Patagonia.
Books, Films
* ''Jäger des Augenblicks''
* ''Richtig Freiklettern''
* ''Rocks around the World''
* ''Hoch hinaus''
* ''Titlis – Chronik einer Erstbegehung'', DVD
* ''The Race'', DVD
* ''On the Rocks - Leben an den Fingerspitzen'' (2005, Piper)
* ''Cerro Torre: Scream of the Stone'' (1991, directed by
Werner Herzog
Werner Herzog (; born 5 September 1942) is a German film director, screenwriter, author, actor, and opera director, regarded as a pioneer of New German Cinema. His films often feature ambitious protagonists with impossible dreams, people with u ...
), DVD
* ''Roraima: Climbers of the Lost World'' (2013,
Red Bull)
See also
*
History of rock climbing
In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines: bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advan ...
*
List of first ascents (sport climbing)
In rock climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first documented redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, big wall (multi-pitch), or boulder route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent must ...
References
External links
*
Biography on climbandmore.com
{{DEFAULTSORT:Glowacz, Stefan
1965 births
Living people
German rock climbers
People from Traunstein (district)
Sportspeople from Upper Bavaria
IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists