Hansjörg Auer
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Hansjörg Auer
Hansjörg Auer (; 18 February 1984 – 16 April 2019) was an Austrian mountaineer, noted for his free solo climbs, and particularly of ''Fish Route'' in the Italian Dolomites, the first-ever big wall solo at . ''National Geographic'' described him as "one of the boldest and best climbers in the world", and he won the 2019 Piolet d'Or for this free solo ascent of the Lupghar Sar West. He died in an avalanche while climbing on Howse Peak in the Canadian Rockies. Personal life Auer was born in Zams, Tyrol, on 18 February 1984, and lived in the Ötztal area of Tyrol. In 2017, he published an autobiography entitled ''Südwand'', in which he describes his problems with anorexia. He considered the South Tyrolean alpinist Reinhold Messner to be a role model. Career Auer's first major free solo climb was ''Tempi Moderni'' ("Modern Times"), an route of 27 pitches graded , on the south face of Marmolada in the Dolomites in northeastern Italy, which he climbed in 2006. The climb to ...
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Innsbruck
Innsbruck (; bar, Innschbruck, label=Bavarian language, Austro-Bavarian ) is the capital of Tyrol (state), Tyrol and the List of cities and towns in Austria, fifth-largest city in Austria. On the Inn (river), River Inn, at its junction with the Wipptal, Wipp Valley, which provides access to the Brenner Pass to the south, it had a population of 132,493 in 2018. In the broad valley between high mountains, the so-called North Chain in the Karwendel Alps (Hafelekarspitze, ) to the north and Patscherkofel () and Serles () to the south, Innsbruck is an internationally renowned winter sports centre; it hosted the 1964 Winter Olympics, 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics as well as the 1984 Winter Paralympics, 1984 and 1988 Winter Paralympics. It also hosted the first 2012 Winter Youth Olympics, Winter Youth Olympics in 2012. The name means "bridge over the Inn". History Antiquity The earliest traces suggest initial inhabitation in the early Stone Age. Surviving Ancient Rome, pre-Roman pla ...
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Piolet D'Or
An ice axe is a multi-purpose hiking and climbing tool used by mountaineers in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve snow, ice, or frozen conditions. Its use depends on the terrain: in its simplest role it is used like a walking stick, with the mountaineer holding the head in the center of their uphill hand. On steep terrain it is swung by its handle and embedded in snow or ice for security and an aid to traction. It can also be buried pick down, the rope tied around the shaft to form a secure anchor on which to bring up a second climber, or buried vertically to form a stomp belay. The adze is used to cut footholds, as well as scoop out compacted snow to bury the axe as a belay anchor. History The ice axe of today has its roots in the long-handled alpenstock that came before it. Not only is an ice axe used as a climbing aid, but also as a means of self-arrest in the event of a slip downhill. Most ice axes meet design and manufacturing standards of organizati ...
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Redpoint (climbing)
In rock climbing, redpointing means to free-climb a route while lead climbing, but only after having practiced the route beforehand (either by hangdogging or top roping), or after having fallen or rested on the rope, on the first attempt. Climbers will try to redpoint a route after having failed to on-sight it (free climb the route on the first attempt with no falls and no prior information), or flash it (free climb the route on the first attempt with no falls but with prior information). Redpointing is sometimes narrowly defined as climbing a route after a failed first attempt (regardless of how long ago, or how many failures occurred). Description Climbers can rest during a redpoint ascent, but not using the rope or any artificial aids (e.g. they can hang off the holds, or use a kneebar). Where the climber falls on a redpoint ascent, they must return to the very bottom, pull their rope free of the route, and completely re-start the ascent from scratch. Redpointing differs ...
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Rope Soloing
Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing is a form of solo climbing (i.e. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a complex self-belay device and rope system to protect themselves in the event of a fall. Rope-soling can be performed as free climbing in a traditional climbing or a sport climbing format. It can also be performed as aid climbing, and a modified version can be performed as top rope-soloing. Due to the complexity of the self-belay system, and the significantly increased workloads, it is still considered a hazardous technique. Versions of rope-solo climbing have been used by solo alpine climbers, including by French alpinist Catherine Destivelle, and Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti. Rope-solo climbing techniques have also been used on big wall climbing routes by climbers such as Austrian Alexander Huber, and British climber Pet ...
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Traditional Climbing
Traditional climbing (or Trad climbing) is a style of rock climbing in which the climber places all the necessary protection gear required to arrest any falls as they are climbing, and then removes it when the pitch is complete (often done by the second/follow-on climber). Traditional bolted aid climbing means the bolts were placed while on lead and/or with hand drills (the bolts tend to be much farther apart than for sport climbs). Traditional climbing carries a higher level of risk than bolted sport climbing, as the climber may not have placed the safety equipment correctly while trying to ascend the route; for some of the world's hardest climbs (e.g. '' Realization/Biographie''), there may not be sufficient cracks or features in the rock that can accept protection gear, and the climb can only be safely attempted by bolting as a sport climb. Overview Characterizing climbing as ''traditional'' distinguishes it from bolted climbing—either trad bolted or sport climbing ...
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Free Climbing
Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber may use climbing equipment such as ropes and other means of climbing protection, but only to protect against injury during falls and not to assist vertical or horizontal progress. The climber ascends or traverses by using physical ability to move over the rock via handholds, footholds, and body smears. The term ''free climbing'' is used in contrast to aid climbing, in which specific aid climbing equipment (such as mechanical ascenders) is used to assist the climber in ascent. The term ''free climbing'' originally meant "free from direct aid". Free climbing more specifically may include: * traditional climbing * sport climbing * bouldering * solo climbing (excluding solo aid climbing) Common misunderstandings of the term While clear in its contrast to aid climbing, the term ''free climbing'' is nonetheless prone to misunderstanding and misuse. The three most common errors are: * Confusing ''free climbing'' ...
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Alpinist (magazine)
''Alpinist'' is a quarterly United States, American magazine focused on outdoor literature, mountain literature and mountaineering ascents worldwide. History and profile ''Alpinist'' was founded in 2002 and was originally published out of Jackson, Wyoming. It was resurrected in 2009, and is now based in Jeffersonville, Vermont. The magazine often focuses on "fast and light" ascents and advocates a rigorous clean-climbing style (not leaving gear behind). ''Alpinist'' won the Maggie Award for Best Overall Design/Consumer Category from the Western Publication Association (WPA) for its Autumn issue (Issue 8) in 2005, and the Maggie Award for the Best Quarterly/Consumer Division in April 2004 for its Winter 2003–2004 issue (Issue 5). On October 16, 2008 the magazine announced that it was closing operations due to financial problems. The magazine was re-launched on April 15, 2009, with Michael Kennedy (climber), Michael Kennedy as the new Editor-in-Chief, by Height of Land Publ ...
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Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Andreas Messner (; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian mountaineer, explorer, and author from South Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the first climber to ascend all fourteen peaks over above sea level without oxygen. Messner was the first to cross Antarctica and Greenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds. He also crossed the Gobi Desert alone. He is widely considered one of the greatest mountaineers of all time. From 1999 to 2004, Messner served as a member of the European Parliament for north-east Italy, as a member of the Federation of the Greens. Messner has published more than 80 books about his experiences as a climber and explorer. In 2018, he received jointly with Krzysztof Wielicki the Princess of Asturias Award in the category of Sports. Early life and education Messner was born within a German-speaking family settled in St. Peter, ...
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South Tyrol
it, Provincia Autonoma di Bolzano – Alto Adige lld, Provinzia Autonoma de Balsan/Bulsan – Südtirol , settlement_type = Autonomous province , image_skyline = , image_alt = , image_caption = , image_flag = Flag_of_South_Tyrol.svg , flag_alt = , image_shield = Suedtirol CoA.svg , shield_size = x100px , shield_alt = Coat of arms of Tyrol , anthem = , image_map = Bolzano in Italy.svg , map_alt = , map_caption = Map highlighting the location of the province of South Tyrol in Italy (in red) , coordinates = , coordinates_footnotes = , subdivision_type = Country , subdivision_name = Italy , subdivision_type1 = R ...
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Anorexia
Anorexia nervosa, often referred to simply as anorexia, is an eating disorder characterized by low weight, food restriction, body image disturbance, fear of gaining weight, and an overpowering desire to be thin. ''Anorexia'' is a term of Greek origin: ''an-'' (ἀν-, prefix denoting negation) and ''orexis'' (ὄρεξις, "appetite"), translating literally to "a loss of appetite"; the adjective ''nervosa'' indicating the functional and non-organic nature of the disorder. ''Anorexia nervosa'' was coined by Gull in 1873 but, despite literal translation, the feeling of hunger is frequently present and the pathological control of this instinct is a source of satisfaction for the patients. Individuals with anorexia nervosa have a fear of being overweight or being seen as such, although they are in fact underweight. The DSM-5 describes this perceptual symptom as "disturbance in the way in which one's body weight or shape is experienced". In research and clinical settings, this ...
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Internationale Fachmesse Für Sportartikel Und Sportmode
The Internationale Fachmesse für Sportartikel und Sportmode, more commonly referred to as ISPO, is the world's largest trade fair for sporting goods and sportswear. Description Since its inception in 1970, the ISPO takes place once a year (end of January or early February) at Neue Messe München where the following categories are being displayed: Outdoor, Skiing, Boarding, Running, Fitness, Sportswear, Beachwear, Teamsports, Soccer, Nordic Sports, Biking, Racket, Triathlon, and Kids. ISPO Munich is part of the ISPO Family which also includes other trade fair A trade fair, also known as trade show, trade exhibition, or trade exposition, is an exhibition organized so that companies in a specific industry can showcase and demonstrate their latest products and services, meet with industry partners and c ...s such as ISPO BIKE (previously Bike EXPO), ISPO BEIJING and the service providers ISPO JOBS and ISPO CONNECT. Each year, the ISPO awards the ISPO BrandNew to Start-Up co ...
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Ötztal
The Ötztal is an alpine valley located in Tyrol, Austria. The Ötztaler Ache river flows through the valley in a northern direction. The Ötztal separates the Stubai Alps in the east from the Ötztal Alps in the west. The valley is long. The northern end of the valley is at the confluence of the Ötztaler Ache and Inn rivers, 8 km east of Imst and 50 km west of Innsbruck. The only railway station of the valley, Ötztal railway station, is located here and connects the Ötztal with the Arlberg railway (Innsbruck-Bludenz) and also a motorway interchange to the A12 (E60). The southern end of the valley, also called the Gurglertal, terminates at the border with Italy. The valley is formed by the main chain of the Alps, with many glaciers and high peaks, including the Weißkugel and the Similaun. The village of Obergurgl at the southern end of the Ötztal is the highest parish in Austria. The Ötztal consists of five municipalities (from north to south): Sautens, Oetz, Umh ...
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