Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is also the only male athlete to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines (lead climbing in 2009, 2015, and 2019 and bouldering in 2010).

At age 13, Ondra had climbed his first route graded . ''Rock & Ice'' reported that by 2011, Ondra was "onsighting 5.14c's by the handful" and, by 2013, had "more or less repeated every hard route in the world—easily". As of November 2018, Ondra had climbed 1,550 routes between grades and , of which one was a , three were , and three were onsights of .

Ondra is the first climber to redpoint a route with a proposed grade of ('' Silence'', 2017), the first-ever climber to redpoint a route (''Change'', 2012), the first-ever to flash a route (''Supercrackinette'', 2018), and the second ever to onsight a route (''Cabane au Canada'', 2013). According to '' The Economist,'' Ondra is "regarded as possibly the best climber ever to fondle rock".

Climbing career

Early years

Ondra started climbing at the age of six; his parents are climbers, and they shared their passion with him. In 1999, at age six, in Rovinj, Croatia, Ondra climbed a route with bolts every half meter. He quickly rose to fame, appearing in climbing magazines as his accomplishments became both more impressive and frequent:
* In 2001, (at age eight), he onsighted routes.
* In 2002, (at age nine), he onsighted and redpointed .
* In 2003, (at age ten), he onsighted .
* In 2004, (at age eleven), he onsighted and redpointed .
* In 2005, (at age twelve), he onsighted .
* In 2006, (at age thirteen), he managed to redpoint his first , ''Martin Krpan'' at Misja Pec.

Climbing competitions

In 2007 and 2008, he won the IFSC World Youth Championship, category Youth B. In 2009, at age sixteen, Ondra competed for the first time in the Lead Climbing World Cup, finishing ahead of Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma. In 2010, he won the Bouldering World Cup, beating Austrian climber Kilian Fischhuber and Tsukuru Hori from Japan, becoming the first athlete in history to win the World Cup in both disciplines (lead and bouldering).

Ondra failed to qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, as he was disqualified for accidentally toeing a bolt during the lead climbing portion of the combined event. However, at the Olympic qualifying event in Toulouse later that year, he managed to secure a place in the Olympic Games, despite falling ill after reaching the finals of the event.

In April 2021 Ondra won gold in the bouldering discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Meiringen, Switzerland. This marked his 20th World Cup gold medal. In August 2021, Ondra finished in sixth place at the 2020 Summer Olympics.

Rock climbing

During a March 2011 trip to Spain, Ondra became the second-ever person to onsight a route, after Patxi Usobiaga. On October 4, 2012, Ondra redpointed ''Change'' in the Hanshelleren Cave, Flatanger, Norway, the world's first-ever route to receive a grade of .

On February 7, 2013, Ondra ascended '' La Dura Dura'' in Oliana, Catalonia, Spain, his second after ''Change''. He worked on this project with American climber Chris Sharma, and the first ascent took Ondra nine weeks. On February 9, 2013, two days after ''La Dura Dura'', Ondra succeeded in the second ascent of the route, ''Fight or flight'', first climbed by Sharma in 2011. On July 9, 2013, Ondra realized the second-ever onsight of a route in history, after Alexander Megos, with the ascent of ''Cabane au Canada'' in Rawyl, Switzerland.

On November 21, 2016, Ondra completed the second free ascent of the 1,000-metre granite route, ''The Dawn Wall'', a 32- pitch grade big wall climbing route at '' El Capitan'' in the Yosemite Valley. The route was widely regarded as the hardest big wall climbing route in the world. Ondra lead every pitch and completed the project in 8 days (the first ascenders, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson alternated leads, and spent 19 days on the wall).

On April 23, 2017, Ondra set a new highpoint for Black Diamond's ''The Project'' indoor sport route in Stockholm, Sweden, which is believed to be the hardest in the world.

On September 3, 2017, after about 4 years of dedicated work and training, Ondra climbed '' Silence'', in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. ''Silence'' was the world's first-ever route to have a proposed grade of . On February 10, 2018, Ondra completed the world's first-ever flash of a confirmed route with his ascent of ''Super Crackinette'' in Saint-Léger du Ventoux, France.

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Championships

Youth

Adult

Climbing European Championships

Rock Master

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

Bouldering

Single-pitch routes

The table below shows the large number of routes graded or more ascended by Adam Ondra in about 16 years, from August 2, 2002 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to November 10, 2018. The total number is 1554, of which one was at and 725 were onsighted, including three onsights at and one flash at .

Redpoint

:
:* ''Silence'' (originally known as ''Project hard'') - Flatanger ( NOR) - September 3, 2017 - First ascent, and world's first-ever proposed route (the grade has to be confirmed).

:
:* ''Zvěřinec (Menagerie)'' - Holštejn ( CZE) - November 20, 2022 - First ascent - Adam claims this as his hardest 9b+ and therefore the second hardest route of his life.
:*''Vasil Vasil'' - Sloup v Čechách ( CZE) - December 4, 2013 - First ascent
:* '' La Dura Dura'' - Oliana ( ESP) - February 7, 2013 - First ascent
:* ''Change'' - Flatanger ( ) - October 4, 2012 - First ascent, and the world's first-ever route.

:
:* ''Wonderland'' - Arco (ITA) - March 2022 - First ascent. Ondra graded the route 9b/9b+ or hard 9b, making it the hardest route in Italy.
:* ''Bomba'' - Arco (ITA) - March 2022 - First ascent
:* ''The Lonely Mountain'' - Arco (ITA) - December 2021. Second ascent after Stefano Ghisolfi.
:* ''Taurus'' - Býčí skála ( CZE) - December 2021 - First Ascent
:* ''Erebor'' - Arco (ITA) - November 2021
:* ''Neanderthal'' - Santa Linya ( ESP) - February 12, 2019
:* ''Disbelief'' - Acephale (CAN) - July 20, 2018 - First ascent
:* ''Eagle-4'' - St. Léger (FRA) - February 13, 2018 - First ascent
:* ''One Slap'' - Arco (ITA) - November 13, 2017 - First ascent
:* ''Move Hard'' - Flatanger ( NOR) - July 10, 2017 - First ascent (link-up of two neighboring routes; through first crux of ''Move'' into second crux of ''Silence'', at the time known as ''Project Hard'')
:* ''Lapsus'' - Andonno (ITA) - April 20, 2017 - Second ascent
:* ''Queen Line'' - Laghel (Arco, ITA) - April 19, 2017 - First ascent
:* ''Mamichula'' - Oliana ( ESP) - February 8, 2017 - First ascent
:* ''Robin Ud'' - Alternativna stena ( ) - October 5, 2016 - First ascent
:* ''Stoking the Fire'' - Santa Linya ( ESP) - February 19, 2016 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
:* ''C.R.S.'' - Mollans sur Ouvèze (FRA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent
:* ''First Round First Minute'' - Margalef ( ESP) - February 3, 2014 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
:* ''Move'' - Flatanger ( NOR) - August 20, 2013 - First ascent. Ondra graded the route "9b/9b+, or just hard 9b". Repeated on June 17, 2019 by Seb Bouin, who later on upgraded the route to 9b+.
:* ''Iron Curtain'' - Flatanger (NOR) - August 3, 2013 - First ascent
:* ''Fight or flight'' - Oliana ( ESP) - February 9, 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2011)
:* ''La planta de Shiva'' - Villanueva del Rosario ( ESP) - April 22, 2011 - First ascent
:* ''Chilam Balam'' -Villanueva del Rosario ( ESP) - April 13, 2011 - Second ascent (however Bernabe Fernandez's first ascent is not confirmed)
:* ''Chaxi Raxi'' - Oliana ( ESP) - March 27, 2011 - First ascent of Chaxi direct start
:* ''La Capella'' - Siurana ( ESP) - February 16, 2011 - First ascent
:* ''Golpe de Estado'' - Siurana (ESP) - March 13, 2010 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)

:

:*''Bohemian Rhapsody'' - Velká ( CZE) - April, 2020 - First Ascent
:*''Catxasa'' - Santa Linya ( ESP) - February 10, 2019
:*''Czech trip'' - Mavrovi Anovi ( MKD) - October 19, 2018 - First Ascent
:*''Sacrifice'' - Echo Canyon (CAN) - July 23, 2018 - First ascent
:*''Stone Butterfly'' - Herculane ( ROU) - May 15, 2018 - First ascent
:*''Underground Dreaming'' - Arco (ITA) - February 24, 2018 - First ascent
:*''Super Crackinette'' - Saint-Léger du Ventoux (FRA) - February 10, 2018 - Flash
:*''Naturalmente'' - Camaiore (ITA) - April 21, 2017 - First ascent
:*''Ultimatum'' - Massone (Arco, (ITA) - April 19, 2017 - third ascent
:*''Predator'' - Bohemian Karst ( CZE) - November 19, 2015 - first ascent, the hardest route in Bohemia
:*''Three Degrees of Separation'' - Céüse (FRA) - July 27, 2015 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2007)
:*'' Realization'' - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2014 - tenth ascent
:*''Ini Ameriketan'' - Baltzola ( ESP) - May 9, 2014
:*''Hell Racer'' - Hell ( NOR) - September 22, 2013 - first ascent
:*''Kangaroo's Limb'' - Flatanger ( NOR) - September 21, 2013 - first ascent
:*''Torture Physique Integrale'' - Gastlosen ( CHE) - July 7, 2013 - first ascent
:*''Power Inverter'' - Oliana ( ESP) - January 25, 2013 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2010)
:*''Thor's Hammer'' - Flatanger ( NOR) - July 8, 2012 - first ascent (now downgraded to 9a)
:*''Jungle Boogie'' - Céüse (FRA) - June 7, 2012 - first ascent
:*''Perlorodka'' - Holstejn ( Moravsky Kras, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - first ascent
:*''Overshadow'' - Malham Cove ( ) - May 16, 2011 - Second ascent of Steve McClure's route
:*''Chaxi'' - Oliana ( ESP) - March 21, 2011 - first ascent of Chris Sharma's project
:*''Obrint el sistema'' - Santa Ana ( ESP) - March 14, 2011 - first ascent of Daniel Andrada's project
:*''L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs'' - Céüse (FRA) - September 4, 2010 - First ascent
:*''Goldrake'' - Cornalba (ITA) - April 6, 2010 - first ascent
:*''Marina Superstar'' - Domusnovas (ITA) - October 20, 2009 - first ascent
:*''Corona'' - Frankenjura ( DEU) - June 7, 2009 - second ascent of Markus Bock's route (2006)
:*''Papichulo'' - Oliana ( ESP) - February 24, 2009 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)
:*''Open Air'' - Schleierwasserfall (AUT) - November 17, 2008 - second ascent of Alexander Huber's route (1996)
:*'' La Rambla'' - Siurana ( ESP) - February 10, 2008 - sixth ascent

On-sight

:
:*''Super Crackinette '' - Saint Léger (FRA) - February 10, 2018 - First-ever 9a+ flash in history.

:
:*'' TCT'' - Gravere (ITA) - July 11, 2014
:* ''Il Domani'' - Baltzola (ESP) - May 3, 2014
:* ''Cabane au Canada'' - Rawyl ( ) - July 9, 2013 - Second-ever 9a onsight in history

:

:*''Blut und Honig'' - Höllental (AUT) - September 30, 2019
:*''Just Do It'' - Smith Rock (Oregon, USA) - November 12, 2018
:*''C'est la vie'' - Alternatívna stena ( SVK) - October 5, 2016
:*''Super Plafond'' - Volx (FRA) - July 6, 2014
:*''Chambao'' - Baltzola ( ESP) - May 7, 2013
:*''Pure Imagination'' - Red River Gorge (USA) - November 1, 2012
:*''Golden Ticket'' - Red River Gorge (USA) - November 1, 2012
:*''Muy Verdes'' - Flatanger ( NOR) - July 11, 2012
:*''Eye of Odin'' - Flatanger ( NOR) - July 8, 2012
:*''Deltaplane Man Direct'' - Entraygues (FRA) - May 31, 2012
:*''Bella Regis'' - Bus De Vela (ITA) - April 7, 2012
:*''L'Avaro'' - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - July 13, 2011
:*''La Rubia'' - Villanueva del Rosario ( ESP) - April 13, 2011
:*''Blanquita'' - Oliana ( ESP) - March 27, 2011
:*''Mind Control'' - Oliana ( ESP) - March 20, 2011
:*''Powerade'' - Vadiello ( ESP) - March 9, 2011
:*''Bizi Euskaraz'' - Etxauri ( ESP) - March 7, 2011
:*''Kidetasunaren balio erantsia'' - Etxauri ( ESP) - March 6, 2011 - Second-ever 8c+ onsight in history after ''Bizi Euskaraz'' by Patxi Usobiaga in 2007

:
:* ''Aktion Talon'' - Höllental (AUT) - June 29, 2013
:* ''Into the Wild'' - Jaén ( ESP) - March 16, 2013
:* ''Terapia de Grito'' - Cuenca ( ESP) - February 13, 2013
:* ''El Calvario del Sicario'' - Cuenca ( ESP) - February 10, 2013
:* ''Nordic Flower'' - Flatanger ( NOR) - July 9, 2012
:* ''Scoglio de Capri'' - Bus De Vela (ITA) - April 7, 2012
:* ''Iluzija'' - Kotecnik ( SVN) - April 5, 2012
:* ''5 Uve'' - Arco (ITA) - June 27, 2011
:* ''Bat Route'' - Malham Cove ( GBR) - May 16, 2011
:* ''Carbunco'' - Archidona ( ESP) - April 23, 2011
:* ''Kalliste'' - Archidona ( ESP) - April 23, 2011
:* ''Fuck the police'' - Etxauri ( ESP) - March 6, 2011
:* ''Dures Limites'' - Céüse (FRA) - August 10, 2010
:* ''Smoke'' - Pierrot beach (FRA) - August 5, 2010
:* ''Home Sweet Home'' - Pierrot beach (FRA) - August 5, 2010
:* ''Guère d'usure'' - Claret (FRA) - January 29, 2010
:* ''Super Samson'' - Claret (FRA) - January 29, 2010
:* ''Gora Guta Gutarak'' - Kalymnos ( ) - May 22, 2009
:* ''Una Vida Nomada'' - Covolo (ITA) - April 21, 2009
:* ''Nagay'' - Covolo (ITA) - April 21, 2009
:* ''L'espiadimondis'' - Margalef ( ESP) - March 2, 2009
:* ''Los Humildes Pa Casa'' - Oliana ( ESP) - February 24, 2009
:* ''Métaphysique Des Tubes'' - Seynes (FRA) - February 21, 2009
:* ''Absinth'' - Sparchen (AUT) - August 16, 2008
:* ''Rollito Sharma Extension'' - Santa Linya ( ESP) - February 7, 2008
:* ''Digital System'' - Santa Linya ( ESP) - February 5, 2008

Boulder problems

Ondra won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2008, 2009 2010 and 2011.

He climbed 293 boulder problems between and . Namely:
:* 4 8C+/V16
:* 10 8C/V15
:* 31 8B+/V14
:* 57 8B/V13
:* 76 8A+/V12
:* 115 8A/V11

:
:* ''Brutal Rider'' - Moravian Karst ( CZE) - May 25, 2020 - First ascent
:* ''Ledoborec'' - Moravian Karst (CZE) - May 24, 2020 - First ascent
:* ''Gioia'' - Varazze (ITA) - December 6, 2011 - Second ascent of Christian Core's boulder (2008)
:* ''Terranova'' - Holštejn ( Moravian Karst, CZE) - November 10, 2011 - First ascent, traverse

:
:* ''Vrtule'' - Holštejn ( Moravian Karst, CZE) - October 13, 2017 - First ascent,

:
:* ''Nunavut'' - Sloup ( Moravian Karst), ( CZE) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent
:* ''Pučmeloun'' - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent
:* ''Ghost Rider'' - (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - September 24, 2019 - Second ascent
:* ''Cháron'' - Petrohrad (Mlýnský vrch), (CZE) - October 15, 2011 - First ascent
:* ''Practice of the Wild'' - Magic Wood ( CHE) - October 1, 2011 - Chris Sharma's boulder (2004)
:* ''Pata ledovce'' - Holštejn (Moravian Karst, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - First ascent
:* ''Monkey Wedding'' - Rocklands ( ZAF) - August 14, 2011 - Third ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder (2002)
:* ''From The Dirt Grows the Flowers'' - Chironico ( CHE) - November 30, 2010 - Dave Graham's boulder (2005)
:* ''Big Paw'' - Chironico (CHE) - November 29, 2010 - Third ascent of Dave Graham's boulder (2008)

Multi-pitch routes

* ''The Dawn Wall'' - El Capitan ( USA) - 3,000 feet (915 meters) tall - 32 pitches, at least two of which graded . Described as the hardest big wall in the world.
:: January 14, 2015 - Redpointed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 19 days, after 7 years of mapping.
:: November 21, 2016 - Redpointed by Adam Ondra in 8 days, after a few weeks of practicing the already mapped ascent.
* ''Mora Mora'' - Tsaranoro Atsimo ( ) - October 10, 2010 - First free ascent
* ''Bravo Les Filles'' - Tsaranoro Kelly ( MDG) - October 7, 2010
* ''Tough Enough Original'' - Karambony ( MDG) - October 4, 2010 - First free ascent
* ''Tough Enough'' - Karambony ( MDG) - September 30, 2010 - First free ascent
* ''Hotel Supramonte'' - Gole di Gorroppu (ITA) - October 18, 2008 - First onsight ascent
* ''Ali Baba'' - Paroi Derobée ( Aiglun, FRA) - 2008 - Second ascent
* ''WoGü'' - Rätikon ( CHE) - July 26, 2008 - First free ascent of ''Beat Kammerlanders route (1997)
* ''Zub za zub'' - Rätikon (CHE) - July 29, 2007 - First free ascent
* ''Silbergeier'' - Rätikon (CHE) - July 27, 2007

Filmography

* ''The Fanatic Search'' - 2009 - Produced by Work Less Climb More and Laurent Triay
* ''Progression'' - 2009 - by Josh Lowell - Produced by Big UP Productions
*''The Wizard's Apprentice'' - 2012 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced b
Bernartwood
- 110'
*''Reel Rock Tour 7'' - 2012 - Produced by Big UP Productions
*''La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb In The World'' - 2014 - Part o
Reel Rock 7
by Big Up Productions
*''Change'' - 2014 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced b
Bernartwood
-
*''Silence—The Story of Adam Ondra and the World's First 5.15d - 2018 -'' by Bernardo Giménez - Produced by AO Production s.r.o.
*Ondra is also producing his own video series about qualifying and competing in the 2020 Summer Olympics, released on YouTube, called ''Road to Tokyo''.

Books

* JAROS, Martin; ONDRA, Adam. ''Adam Ondra: lezec telem i dusi''. Albatros, 2019. 200 p.
* ONDRA, Adam; GIMENEZ, Bernardo; BIBA, Lukas. ''Adam Ondra Book''. AO Production, 2019. 223 p.

Awards

* 2008 Salewa Rock Award
* 2010 Salewa Rock Award
* 2011 Salewa Rock Award
* 2013 Salewa Rock Award

See also

*History of rock climbing
* List of first ascents (sport climbing)
* Chris Sharma, American rock climber
* Sébastien Bouin, French rock climber, frequent climbing-partner with Ondra

References

External links

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{{DEFAULTSORT:Ondra, Adam
1993 births
Living people
Czech rock climbers
Sport climbing
Sportspeople from Brno
Sport climbers at the 2020 Summer Olympics
Olympic sport climbers of the Czech Republic