M. F. K. Fisher
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Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher (July 3, 1908 – June 22, 1992) was an American food writer. She was a founder of the Napa Valley Wine Library. Over her lifetime she wrote 27 books, including a translation of ''The Physiology of Taste'' by
Brillat-Savarin Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (; 1 April 1755, Belley, Ain – 2 February 1826, Paris) was a French lawyer and politician, who, as the author of ''The Physiology of Taste'' (''Physiologie du Goût''), gained fame as an epicure and gastronome: ...
. Fisher believed that eating well was just one of the "arts of life" and explored this in her writing. W. H. Auden once remarked, "I do not know of anyone in the United States who writes better prose."


Early life

Fisher was born Mary Frances Kennedy on July 3, 1908, at 202 Irwin Avenue,
Albion, Michigan Albion is a city in Calhoun County in the south central region of the Lower Peninsula of the U.S. state of Michigan. The population was 8,616 at the 2010 census and is part of the Battle Creek Metropolitan Statistical Area. The earliest English ...
. She told Albion City Historian Frank Passic: Rex was a co-owner (with his brother Walter) and editor of the Albion ''Evening Recorder'' newspaper. In 1911, Rex sold his interest in the paper to his brother, and moved the family to the West Coast, where he hoped to buy a fruit or citrus orchard. The family spent some time in
Washington Washington commonly refers to: * Washington (state), United States * Washington, D.C., the capital of the United States ** A metonym for the federal government of the United States ** Washington metropolitan area, the metropolitan area centered o ...
with relatives, and then traveled down the coast to
Ventura, California Ventura, officially named San Buenaventura ( Spanish for " Saint Bonaventure"), is a city on the Southern Coast of California and the county seat of Ventura County. The population was 110,763 at the 2020 census. Ventura is a popular tourist ...
, where Rex nearly purchased an orange grove, but backed out after discovering soil problems. He next purchased and briefly owned the ''Oxnard Courier'' in
Oxnard, California Oxnard () is a city in Ventura County, California, United States. On California's South Coast, it is the most populous city in Ventura County and the 22nd-most-populous city in California. Incorporated in 1903, Oxnard lies approximately west ...
.''Poet, supra'' at 8. From there he traveled to
San Diego San Diego ( , ; ) is a city on the Pacific Ocean coast of Southern California located immediately adjacent to the Mexico–United States border. With a 2020 population of 1,386,932, it is the eighth most populous city in the United States ...
and worked for a local newspaper. In 1912 he purchased a controlling interest in the ''Whittier News'' and moved the family to
Whittier, California Whittier () is a city in Southern California in Los Angeles County, part of the Gateway Cities. The city had 87,306 residents as of the 2020 United States census, an increase of 1,975 from the 2010 census figure. Whittier was incorporated in ...
. Rex initially purchased a house at 115 Painter Avenue.''Poet'', supra, 15. In 1919, he purchased a large white house outside the city limits on South Painter Avenue.''Poet'', supra at 20. The house sat on thirteen acres, with an orange grove; it was referred to by the family as "The Ranch." Although Whittier was primarily a
Quaker Quakers are people who belong to a historically Protestant Christian set of denominations known formally as the Religious Society of Friends. Members of these movements ("theFriends") are generally united by a belief in each human's abili ...
community at that time, Mary Frances was brought up within the Episcopal Church. Mary Frances enjoyed reading as a child, and began writing poetry at the age of five. The Kennedys had a vast home library, and her mother provided her access to many other books. Later, her father used her as
stringer Stringer may refer to: Structural elements * Stringer (aircraft), or longeron, a strip of wood or metal to which the skin of an aircraft is fastened * Stringer (slag), an inclusion, possibly leading to a defect, in cast metal * Stringer (stairs), ...
on his paper, and she would draft as many as fifteen stories a day. Mary Frances received a formal education; however, she was an indifferent student who often skipped classes throughout her academic career. At the age of sixteen, her parents enrolled her in a private school: The Bishop's School in
La Jolla La Jolla ( , ) is a hilly, seaside neighborhood within the city of San Diego, California, United States, occupying of curving coastline along the Pacific Ocean. The population reported in the 2010 census was 46,781. La Jolla is surrounded on ...
, California.''Passionate Years, supra'' at 32. After one year there, she transferred to the Harker School for Girls in
Palo Alto, California Palo Alto (; Spanish for "tall stick") is a charter city in the northwestern corner of Santa Clara County, California, United States, in the San Francisco Bay Area, named after a coastal redwood tree known as El Palo Alto. The city was es ...
, adjacent to
Stanford University Stanford University, officially Leland Stanford Junior University, is a private research university in Stanford, California. The campus occupies , among the largest in the United States, and enrolls over 17,000 students. Stanford is conside ...
; she graduated from Harker in 1927. Upon graduation, she attended
Illinois College Illinois College is a private liberal arts college in Jacksonville, Illinois. It is affiliated with the United Church of Christ and the Presbyterian Church (USA). It was the second college founded in Illinois, but the first to grant a degree ( ...
, but left after only one semester, In 1928, she enrolled in summer school at
UCLA The University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) is a public land-grant research university in Los Angeles, California. UCLA's academic roots were established in 1881 as a teachers college then known as the southern branch of the California ...
in order to obtain enough credits to transfer to
Occidental College Occidental College (informally Oxy) is a private liberal arts college in Los Angeles, California. Founded in 1887 as a coeducational college by clergy and members of the Presbyterian Church, it became non-sectarian in 1910. It is one of the oldes ...
.''Passionate Years, supra'' at 39. While there, she met her future first husband: Alfred Fisher ("Al"). She attended Occidental College for one year; however, she married Al on September 5, 1929, and moved with him to
Dijon Dijon (, , ) (dated) * it, Digione * la, Diviō or * lmo, Digion is the prefecture of the Côte-d'Or department and of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in northeastern France. the commune had a population of 156,920. The earlie ...
, France.


Career

Food became an early passion in her life. Her earliest memory of taste was "the grayish-pink fuzz my grandmother skimmed from a spitting kettle of strawberry jam". Her maternal grandmother Holbrook lived with them until her death in 1920. During that period, Holbrook was a source of tension in the household. She was a stern, rather joyless person, and a
Campbellite Campbellite is a mildly pejorative term referring to adherents of certain religious groups that have historic roots in the Restoration Movement, among whose most prominent 19th-century leaders were Thomas and Alexander Campbell. Members of these g ...
who firmly believed in overcooked, bland food. She was also a follower of Dr.
John Harvey Kellogg John Harvey Kellogg (February 26, 1852 – December 14, 1943) was an American medical doctor, nutritionist, inventor, health activist, eugenicist, and businessman. He was the director of the Battle Creek Sanitarium in Battle Creek, Michigan. The ...
's dietary restrictions at the
Battle Creek Sanitarium The Battle Creek Sanitarium was a world-renowned health resort in Battle Creek, Michigan, United States. It started in 1866 on health principles advocated by the Seventh-day Adventist Church and from 1876 to 1943 was managed by Dr. John H ...
. Fisher would later write that during her grandmother's absences at religious conventions: An early food influence was "Aunt" Gwen. Aunt Gwen was not family, but the daughter of friends — the Nettleship family — "a strange family of English medical missionaries who preferred tents to houses."''Begin Again, supra'' at 24. The Nettleships had an encampment on
Laguna Beach Laguna Beach (; ''Laguna'', Spanish for "Lagoon") is a seaside resort city located in southern Orange County, California, in the United States. It is known for its mild year-round climate, scenic coves, environmental preservation efforts, and ...
, and Mary Frances would camp out there with Gwen. Rex would later buy the campsite and a cabin that had been built on it. Mary Frances recalled cooking outdoors with Gwen: steaming
mussel Mussel () is the common name used for members of several families of bivalve molluscs, from saltwater and freshwater habitats. These groups have in common a shell whose outline is elongated and asymmetrical compared with other edible clams, which ...
s on fresh seaweed over hot coals; catching and frying
rock bass The rock bass (''Ambloplites rupestris''), also known as the rock perch, goggle-eye, red eye, and black perch, is a freshwater fish native to east-central North America. This red eyed creature is a species of freshwater fish in the sunfish ...
; skinning and cooking eel; and, making fried egg sandwiches to carry on hikes. Mary Frances wrote of her meals with Gwen and Gwen's brothers: "I decided at the age of nine that one of the best ways to grow up is to eat and talk quietly with good people." Mary Frances liked to cook meals in the kitchen at home, and "easily fell into the role of the cook's helper."


Dijon

In September 1929, newlyweds Mary Frances and Al sailed on the RMS ''Berengaria'' to Cherbourg (now
Cherbourg-Octeville Cherbourg-Octeville () is a former commune in the Manche department in Normandy in north-western France.
), France. They traveled to
Paris Paris () is the capital and most populous city of France, with an estimated population of 2,165,423 residents in 2019 in an area of more than 105 km² (41 sq mi), making it the 30th most densely populated city in the world in 2020. Si ...
for a brief stay, before continuing south to
Dijon Dijon (, , ) (dated) * it, Digione * la, Diviō or * lmo, Digion is the prefecture of the Côte-d'Or department and of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in northeastern France. the commune had a population of 156,920. The earlie ...
. They initially found a rental at 14 Rue du Petit-Potet in a home owned by the Ollangnier family. The lodgings consisted of two rooms, with no kitchen, and no separate bathroom. Al attended the Faculté des Lettres at the
University of Dijon A university () is an institution of higher (or tertiary) education and research which awards academic degrees in several academic disciplines. Universities typically offer both undergraduate and postgraduate programs. In the United States, th ...
where he was working on his doctorate; when not in class, he worked on his epic poem, ''The Ghosts in the Underblows.'' The poem was based on the Bible and was analogous to
James Joyce James Augustine Aloysius Joyce (2 February 1882 – 13 January 1941) was an Irish novelist, poet, and literary critic. He contributed to the Modernism, modernist avant-garde movement and is regarded as one of the most influential and important ...
's '' Ulysses''. By 1931, Fisher had finished the first twelve books of the poem, which he ultimately expected to contain sixty books. Mary Frances attended night classes at the École des Beaux-Arts where she spent three years studying painting and sculpture. The Ollangniers served good food at home, although Madame Ollangnier was "extremely penurious and stingy." Mary Frances remembered big salads made at the table, deep-fried
Jerusalem artichoke The Jerusalem artichoke (''Helianthus tuberosus''), also called sunroot, sunchoke, wild sunflower, topinambur, or earth apple, is a species of sunflower native to central North America. It is cultivated widely across the temperate zone for its ...
s, and "reject cheese" that was always good. To celebrate their three-month anniversary, Al and Mary Frances went to the Aux Trois Faisans restaurant — their first of many visits. There, Mary Frances received her education in fine wine from a
sommelier A sommelier ( or or ; ), or wine steward, is a trained and knowledgeable wine professional, normally working in fine restaurants, who specializes in all aspects of wine service as well as wine and food pairing. The role of the wine steward in fin ...
named Charles. The Fishers visited all the restaurants in town, where in Mary Frances's words: In 1930,
Lawrence Clark Powell Lawrence Clark Powell (September 3, 1906–March 14, 2001) was a librarian, literary critic, bibliographer and author of more than 100 books. Powell "made a significant contribution to the literature of the library profession, but he also writ ...
came to Dijon to obtain his doctorate at the University of Burgundy. He came at Mary Frances's suggestion. Powell had become acquainted with Mary Frances when her sister was attending Occidental College, and roomed with Powell's girlfriend. Powell moved into the attic above the Fishers and became lifelong friends with Mary Frances. He described the food at the Fishers' pensione: In 1931, Mary Frances and Al moved to their own apartment, above a pastry shop at 26 Rue Monge. It was Mary Frances's first kitchen. It was only five feet by three feet and contained a two-burner
hotplate A hot plate is a portable self-contained tabletop small appliance cooktop that features one or more electric heating elements or gas burners. A hot plate can be used as a stand-alone appliance, but is often used as a substitute for one of t ...
. Despite the kitchen's limitations, or perhaps because of it, Mary Frances began developing her own personal cuisine, with the goal of "cooking meals that would 'shake er guestsfrom their routines, not only of meat-potatoes-gravy, but of thought, of behavior.'" In ''The Gastronomical Me'' she describes one such meal: After Al was awarded his doctorate, they moved briefly to
Strasbourg Strasbourg (, , ; german: Straßburg ; gsw, label= Bas Rhin Alsatian, Strossburi , gsw, label= Haut Rhin Alsatian, Strossburig ) is the prefecture and largest city of the Grand Est region of eastern France and the official seat of the ...
, France, where Al continued to study and write. Mary Frances became depressed from loneliness and being cooped up in a cold, dank apartment.''Poet, supra'' at 66. Unable to afford better accommodations, the Fishers next moved to a tiny French fishing village, Le Cros-de-Cagnes. Powell visited with them there for six weeks and observed that Al was growing more introspective. He had stopped work on his poem, was trying to write novels and did not want to return to the States where he knew job prospects were poor. He could not, however, see a way to stay in France. After running out of funds, the Fishers returned to California, sailing on the ''Feltre'' out of
Marseilles Marseille ( , , ; also spelled in English as Marseilles; oc, Marselha ) is the prefecture of the French department of Bouches-du-Rhône and capital of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region. Situated in the camargue region of southern Franc ...
.


California

Back in California, Al and Mary Frances initially moved in with Mary Frances's family at "The Ranch". They later moved into the Laguna cabin. This was during the
Great Depression The Great Depression (19291939) was an economic shock that impacted most countries across the world. It was a period of economic depression that became evident after a major fall in stock prices in the United States. The economic contagio ...
and work was hard to find. Al spent two years looking for a teaching position until he found one at Occidental College. Mary Frances began writing and she published her first piece — "Pacific Village" — in the February 1935 issue of ''
Westways The Automobile Club of Southern California is the Southern California affiliate of the American Automobile Association (AAA) federation of motor clubs. The Auto Club was founded on December 13, 1900, in Los Angeles as one of the nation's first mot ...
'' magazine (previously known as ''Touring Topics''). The article was a fictional account of life in Laguna Beach. In 1934, Lawrence Powell moved to Laguna with his wife Fay. In 1933, Dillwyn Parrish and his wife Gigi moved next door to them, and they rapidly became friends. When Al began teaching at Occidental, the Fishers initially moved to
Eagle Rock, Los Angeles Eagle Rock is a neighborhood of Northeast Los Angeles, abutting the San Rafael Hills in Los Angeles County, California. Eagle Rock is named after Eagle Rock (geographic point), Eagle Rock, a large boulder whose shadow resembles an eagle.http://ww ...
, where the Parrishes helped them paint and fix up an older house they had rented. Unfortunately the home was sold shortly thereafter, and the Fishers had to move to another rented house in Highland Park. Mary Frances worked part-time in a card shop and researched old cookery books at the
Los Angeles Public Library The Los Angeles Public Library system (LAPL) is a public library system in Los Angeles, California. The system holds more than six million volumes, and with around 19 million residents in the Los Angeles Metropolitan area, it serves the lar ...
. She began writing short pieces on gastronomy. Parrish's sister Anne showed them to her publisher at
Harpers Harpers may refer to: * Harpers, popular misnomer for ''Harper's Magazine'', American monthly magazine * ''Harper's Bazaar'', monthly American fashion magazine * '' Harpers Wine & Spirit'', formerly ''Harpers Magazine'' (since 1878), British trad ...
who expressed an interest in them. The pieces were later to become her first book: ''Serve It Forth.'' Mary Frances next began work on a novel she never finished; it was based on the founding of Whittier.''Poet, supra'' at 86. During this period, Mary Frances's marriage with Al was beginning to fail. After Parrish divorced Gigi in 1934, Mary Frances found herself falling in love with him. In Mary's words, she one day sat next to Parrish at the piano and told him she loved him. Mary Frances's biographer Joan Reardon, however, interviewed Gigi who told a different story. She stated that Parrish told her that one night after he had dined alone with Mary Frances, she later let herself into his house and slipped into bed with him. In 1935, with Al's permission, Mary Frances traveled to Europe with Parrish and his mother.''Material Dreams, supra'' at 380. The Parrishes had money, and they sailed on the luxury liner ''Hansa''. While in Europe, they spent four days in Paris, and traveled through
Provence Provence (, , , , ; oc, Provença or ''Prouvènço'' , ) is a geographical region and historical province of southeastern France, which extends from the left bank of the lower Rhône to the west to the Italian border to the east; it is bo ...
,
Languedoc The Province of Languedoc (; , ; oc, Lengadòc ) is a former province of France. Most of its territory is now contained in the modern-day region of Occitanie in Southern France. Its capital city was Toulouse. It had an area of approximately ...
, and the
French Riviera The French Riviera (known in French as the ; oc, Còsta d'Azur ; literal translation " Azure Coast") is the Mediterranean coastline of the southeast corner of France. There is no official boundary, but it is usually considered to extend from ...
. Mary Frances also revisited Dijon and ate with Parrish at Aux Trois Faisans where she was recognized and served by her old friend, the waiter Charles.''Pots and Pans, supra'' at 54. She later wrote a piece on their visit — "The Standing and the Waiting" — which was to become the centerpiece of ''Serve It Forth.'' Upon her return from Europe, Mary Frances informed Al of her developing relationship with Parrish. In 1936, Dillwyn invited the Fishers to join him in creating an artists' colony at Le Paquis — a two-story stone house that Parrish had bought with his sister north of
Vevey Vevey (; frp, Vevê; german: label=former German, Vivis) is a town in Switzerland in the canton of Vaud, on the north shore of Lake Geneva, near Lausanne. The German name Vivis is no longer commonly used. It was the seat of the district of ...
, Switzerland. Notwithstanding the clear threat to his marriage, Al agreed.


Vevey

The Fishers sailed to
Holland Holland is a geographical regionG. Geerts & H. Heestermans, 1981, ''Groot Woordenboek der Nederlandse Taal. Deel I'', Van Dale Lexicografie, Utrecht, p 1105 and former Provinces of the Netherlands, province on the western coast of the Netherland ...
on a small Dutch passenger freighter, and from there took a train to Vevey. "Le Paquis" means the grazing ground. The house sat on a sloping meadow on the north shore of
Lake Geneva , image = Lake Geneva by Sentinel-2.jpg , caption = Satellite image , image_bathymetry = , caption_bathymetry = , location = Switzerland, France , coords = , lake_type = Glacial lak ...
, looking across to the snowcapped
Alps The Alps () ; german: Alpen ; it, Alpi ; rm, Alps ; sl, Alpe . are the highest and most extensive mountain range system that lies entirely in Europe, stretching approximately across seven Alpine countries (from west to east): France, Sw ...
. They had a large garden in which In mid-1937 Al and Mary Frances separated. He traveled to Austria and then returned to the States where he began a distinguished career as a teacher and poet at
Smith College Smith College is a private liberal arts women's college in Northampton, Massachusetts. It was chartered in 1871 by Sophia Smith and opened in 1875. It is the largest member of the historic Seven Sisters colleges, a group of elite women's coll ...
. In a December 2, 1938, letter to Powell, Mary Frances explained her side of the marital breakup. She stated that Al was afraid of physical love; he was sexually
impotent Erectile dysfunction (ED), also called impotence, is the type of sexual dysfunction in which the penis fails to become or stay erect during sexual activity. It is the most common sexual problem in men.Cunningham GR, Rosen RC. Overview of male ...
in their marriage. Moreover, he was an intellectual loner who was emotionally estranged from Mary Frances. Mary Frances stated that contrary to Al's belief, she had not left him for another man; she had left him because he could not satisfy her emotional and physical needs. In 1938, Mary Frances returned home briefly to inform her parents in person of her separation and pending divorce from Al. Meanwhile, her first book, ''Serve It Forth'', had opened to largely glowing reviews, including reviews in ''
Harper's Monthly ''Harper's Magazine'' is a monthly magazine of literature, politics, culture, finance, and the arts. Launched in New York City in June 1850, it is the oldest continuously published monthly magazine in the U.S. (''Scientific American'' is older, b ...
'', ''
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'' and the ''
Chicago Tribune The ''Chicago Tribune'' is a daily newspaper based in Chicago, Illinois, United States, owned by Tribune Publishing. Founded in 1847, and formerly self-styled as the "World's Greatest Newspaper" (a slogan for which WGN radio and television ar ...
''. Fisher, however, was disappointed in the book's meager sales because she needed the money. During this same period, Fisher and Parrish also co-wrote (alternating chapters) a light romance entitled ''Touch and Go'' under the pseudonym Victoria Berne. The book was published by Harper and Brothers in 1939."Touch and go"
Library of Congress Catalog Record. Retrieved 2013-10-17.
In September 1938, Fisher and Parrish could no longer afford to live at Les Paquis and they moved to
Bern german: Berner(in)french: Bernois(e) it, bernese , neighboring_municipalities = Bremgarten bei Bern, Frauenkappelen, Ittigen, Kirchlindach, Köniz, Mühleberg, Muri bei Bern, Neuenegg, Ostermundigen, Wohlen bei Bern, Zollikofen , website ...
. After only two days in Bern, however, Parrish suffered severe cramping in his left leg. Hospitalized, he underwent two surgeries to remove clots.
Gangrene Gangrene is a type of tissue death caused by a lack of blood supply. Symptoms may include a change in skin color to red or black, numbness, swelling, pain, skin breakdown, and coolness. The feet and hands are most commonly affected. If the gan ...
then set in and his left leg had to be amputated. Parrish was in considerable pain and could not get a good diagnosis from his doctors. With the onset of
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the World War II by country, vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great power ...
, and Parrish's need for medical care, Fisher and Parrish returned to the States, where he saw a number of doctors. He ultimately was diagnosed as having Buerger's disease (
Thromboangiitis obliterans Thromboangiitis obliterans, also known as Buerger disease (English ; ) or Winiwarter-Buerger disease, is a recurring progressive inflammation and thrombosis (clotting) of small and medium arteries and veins of the hands and feet. It is strongly a ...
) — a circulatory system malady that causes extreme
thrombosis Thrombosis (from Ancient Greek "clotting") is the formation of a blood clot inside a blood vessel, obstructing the flow of blood through the circulatory system. When a blood vessel (a vein or an artery) is injured, the body uses platelets (th ...
of the arteries and veins, causing severe pain, and often necessitating multiple amputations. The disease is progressive and there was (and is) no known successful treatment. They returned briefly to Switzerland to close down their apartment, and returned to California. They also needed to accumulate a stock of the painkiller Analgeticum, the only one that Parrish found efficacious, unavailable in the States.


California and Provence

Once in California, Fisher searched for a warm dry climate that would be beneficial for Parrish's health. She found a small cabin on ninety acres of land south of
Hemet, California Hemet is a city in the San Jacinto Valley in Riverside County, California. It covers a total area of , about half of the valley, which it shares with the neighboring city of San Jacinto. The population was 89,833 at the 2020 census. The foundi ...
. They bought the property and named it "Bareacres" after the character Lord Bareacres in ''
Vanity Fair Vanity Fair may refer to: Arts, entertainment and media Literature * Vanity Fair, a location in '' The Pilgrim's Progress'' (1678), by John Bunyan * ''Vanity Fair'' (novel), 1848, by William Makepeace Thackeray * ''Vanity Fair'' (magazines), the ...
'' by
Thackeray William Makepeace Thackeray (; 18 July 1811 – 24 December 1863) was a British novelist, author and illustrator. He is known for his satirical works, particularly his 1848 novel ''Vanity Fair'', a panoramic portrait of British society, and th ...
. Lord Bareacres was land-poor; his only asset was his estate. Fisher wrote Powell: "God help us ... We've put our last penny into 90 acres of rocks and
rattlesnake Rattlesnakes are venomous snakes that form the genera ''Crotalus'' and ''Sistrurus'' of the subfamily Crotalinae (the pit vipers). All rattlesnakes are vipers. Rattlesnakes are predators that live in a wide array of habitats, hunting small an ...
s." Although Parrish's life at Bareacres had its ups and downs, its course was a downward spiral. He continued to paint, and Powell staged an exhibition of his works. Fisher was always trying to find ways to obtain Analgeticum; she even wrote President Roosevelt at one point to urge him to lift the import restriction on the drug. Ultimately, Parrish could no longer tolerate the pain and the probable need for additional amputations. On the morning of August 6, 1941, Fisher was awakened by a gunshot. Venturing outside, she discovered that Parrish had committed suicide. Fisher later would write, "I have never understood some (a lot of) taboos and it seems silly to me to make suicide one of them in our social life." During the period leading up to Tim's death (Parrish was often called "Tim" by family and friends, but referred to as "Chexbres" in Fisher's autobiographical books), Fisher completed three books. The first was a novel entitled ''The Theoretical Foot.'' It was a fictional account of expatriates enjoying a summer romp when the protagonist, suffering great pain, ends up losing a leg. Transparently based on Tim, the novel was rejected by publishers. The second book was an unsuccessful attempt by her to revise a novel written by Tim, ''Daniel Among the Women.'' Third, she completed and published ''Consider the Oyster,'' which she dedicated to Tim. The book was humorous and informative. It contained numerous recipes incorporating
oyster Oyster is the common name for a number of different families of salt-water bivalve molluscs that live in marine or brackish habitats. In some species, the valves are highly calcified, and many are somewhat irregular in shape. Many, but not ...
s, mixed with musings on the history of the oyster, oyster cuisine, and the love life of the oyster. In 1942, Fisher published ''How to Cook a Wolf.'' The book was published at the height of WWII food shortages. "Pages offered housewives advice on how to achieve a balanced diet, stretch ingredients, eat during blackouts, deal with sleeplessness and sorrow, and care for pets during wartime." The book received good reviews and attained literary success, leading to a feature article on Fisher in ''Look'' magazine in July 1942. In May 1942 Fisher began working in Hollywood for Paramount Studios. While there she wrote gags for
Bob Hope Leslie Townes "Bob" Hope (May 29, 1903 – July 27, 2003) was a British-American comedian, vaudevillian, actor, singer and dancer. With a career that spanned nearly 80 years, Hope appeared in more than 70 short and feature films, with ...
,
Bing Crosby Harry Lillis "Bing" Crosby Jr. (May 3, 1903 – October 14, 1977) was an American singer, musician and actor. The first multimedia star, he was one of the most popular and influential musical artists of the 20th century worldwide. He was a ...
, and
Dorothy Lamour Dorothy Lamour (born Mary Leta Dorothy Slaton; December 10, 1914 – September 22, 1996) was an American actress and singer. She is best remembered for having appeared in the '' Road to...'' movies, a series of successful comedies starring Bing ...
. Fisher became pregnant in 1943, and secluded herself in a boarding house in
Altadena Altadena () ("Alta", Spanish for "Upper", and "dena" from Pasadena) is an unincorporated area and census-designated place in the Verdugo Mountains region of Los Angeles County, California, approximately 14 miles (23 km) from the downtown L ...
. While there she worked on the book that would become ''The Gastronomical Me.'' On August 15, 1943, she gave birth to Anne Kennedy Parrish (later known as Anna).''Passionate Years, supra'' at 220. Fisher listed a fictional father on the birth certificate, Michael Parrish. Fisher initially claimed she had adopted the baby; she never revealed the father's identity. In 1944, Fisher broke her contract with Paramount. On a trip to New York, she met and fell in love with publisher Donald Friede. In a letter to Powell she wrote, "I accidentally got married to Donald Friede." She spent the summer in
Greenwich Village Greenwich Village ( , , ) is a neighborhood on the west side of Lower Manhattan in New York City, bounded by 14th Street to the north, Broadway to the east, Houston Street to the south, and the Hudson River to the west. Greenwich Village ...
with Friede, working on the book that would become ''Let Us Feast.'' Her relationship with Friede gave her entree to additional publishing markets, and she wrote articles for ''
Atlantic Monthly ''The Atlantic'' is an American magazine and multi-platform publisher. It features articles in the fields of politics, foreign affairs, business and the economy, culture and the arts, technology, and science. It was founded in 1857 in Boston, ...
'', ''
Vogue Vogue may refer to: Business * ''Vogue'' (magazine), a US fashion magazine ** British ''Vogue'', a British fashion magazine ** ''Vogue Arabia'', an Arab fashion magazine ** ''Vogue Australia'', an Australian fashion magazine ** ''Vogue China'', ...
'', '' Town and Country'', ''Today's Woman'' and ''
Gourmet Gourmet (, ) is a cultural idea associated with the culinary arts of fine food and drink, or haute cuisine, which is characterized by refined, even elaborate preparations and presentations of aesthetically balanced meals of several contrasting, of ...
''. In fall 1945, Friede's publishing entity failed, and Fisher and Friede returned to Bareacres, both to write. On March 12, 1946, Fisher gave birth to her second daughter, Kennedy Mary Friede.''Pots and Pans, supra'' at 90. Fisher began work on ''With Bold Knife and Fork.'' Mary Frances's mother died in 1948. In 1949, she moved to the Ranch to take care of her father, Rex.''Pots and Pans, supra'' at 93. On Christmas Eve 1949, the limited edition release of her translation of Savarin's ''
The Physiology of Taste Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (; 1 April 1755, Belley, Ain – 2 February 1826, Paris) was a French lawyer and politician, who, as the author of ''The Physiology of Taste'' (''Physiologie du Goût''), gained fame as an epicure and gastronome: ...
'' received rave reviews. "
Craig Claiborne Craig Claiborne (September 4, 1920 January 22, 2000) was an American restaurant critic, food journalist and book author. A long-time food editor and restaurant critic for ''The New York Times'', he was also the author of numerous cookbooks and ...
of the ''
New York Times ''The New York Times'' (''the Times'', ''NYT'', or the Gray Lady) is a daily newspaper based in New York City with a worldwide readership reported in 2020 to comprise a declining 840,000 paid print subscribers, and a growing 6 million paid ...
'' said Fisher's prose perfectly captured the wit and gaiety of the book and lauded the hundreds of marginal glosses that headded to elucidate the text." During this period, Fisher also was working on a biography of Madame Récamier for which she had received an advance. Her marriage with Donald was starting to unravel. He became ill with intestinal pains and after considerable medical treatment, it became apparent that the pain was psychosomatic, and Don began receiving psychiatric care. Fisher in turn had been under considerable stress. She had been caretaker for Tim, had weathered his suicide, suffered her brother's suicide a year later, followed by the death of her mother, only to be thrust into the role of caretaker for Rex. Despite her financially successful writing career, Don lived a lifestyle that exceeded their income, leaving her $27,000 in debt.''Poet, supra'' at 195. She sought psychiatric counseling for what essentially was a nervous breakdown. By 1949, Donald had become frustrated by his isolation in a small Southern California town and separated from Fisher. Don sought further treatment at the Harkness Pavilion in New York. Fisher and Friede divorced on August 8, 1950. Her father died June 2, 1953.''Pots and Pans, supra'' at 102. Mary Frances subsequently sold the Ranch and the newspaper.''Pots and Pans, supra'' at 110. She rented out Bareacres and moved to
Napa Valley Napa Valley is an American Viticultural Area (AVA) located in Napa County in California's Wine Country. It was established by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (ATF) on January 27, 1981. Napa Valley is considered one of the premier ...
, renting "Red Cottage" south of
St. Helena, California St. Helena ( ; Wappo language, Wappo: ''Anakotanoma'') is a city in Napa County, California, Napa County, in the Wine Country of California. Located in the North Bay (San Francisco Bay Area), North Bay region of the San Francisco Bay Area, the ...
. Dissatisfied with the educational opportunities available to her children, Fisher sailed to France in 1954. She ended up in Aix-en-Provence, France. She planned to live in Aix using the proceeds from the sale of her father's paper. Once in Aix, Fisher lodged with Mme Lanes at 17 rue Cardinale.''Poet, supra'' at 240. She employed a French tutor and enrolled Anna and Kennedy, then aged 11 and 8, in the École St Catherine. She described Mme Lanes as "incredibly fusty and 'correcte,'" part of the "poor but proud aristocracy." In Aix, her life developed a pattern. Each day she would walk across town to pick up the girls from school at noon, and in late afternoon they ate snacks or ices at the Deux Garçons or Glacière. She never felt completely at home. She felt patronized because she was an American: "I was forever in their eyes the product of a naïve, undeveloped, and indeed infantile civilization ...". At one point, an important local woman, introduced to her through mutual friends in Dijon, invited her to lunch. During the meal, the woman sneered at Fisher:


St. Helena

Fisher left Provence in July 1955, and sailed for
San Francisco San Francisco (; Spanish for " Saint Francis"), officially the City and County of San Francisco, is the commercial, financial, and cultural center of Northern California. The city proper is the fourth most populous in California and 17th ...
on the freighter ''Vesuvio''. After living in the city for a short period, she decided that the intense urban environment did not provide the children enough freedom. She sold Bareacres and used the proceeds to buy an old Victorian house on Oak Street in St. Helena. She owned the house until 1970, using it as a base for frequent travels. During extended absences she would rent it out. In fall 1959 she moved the family to
Lugano Lugano (, , ; lmo, label=Ticinese dialect, Ticinese, Lugan ) is a city and municipality in Switzerland, part of the Lugano District in the canton of Ticino. It is the largest city of both Ticino and the Italian-speaking southern Switzerland. Luga ...
, Switzerland, where she hoped to introduce her daughters to a new language and culture. She enrolled the girls in the Istituto Sant'Anna Convent boarding school. She revisited Dijon and Aix. Falling back in love with Aix, she rented the L'Harmas farmhouse outside Aix. In July 1961, she returned to San Francisco. In 1963, Fisher decided to try her hand at teaching at the African-American Piney Woods Country Life School in
Mississippi Mississippi () is a state in the Southeastern region of the United States, bordered to the north by Tennessee; to the east by Alabama; to the south by the Gulf of Mexico; to the southwest by Louisiana; and to the northwest by Arkansas. Miss ...
. It was not a good experience for her. She received mixed reviews and was not invited back for another term. She next contracted to write a series of cookbook reviews for ''
The New Yorker ''The New Yorker'' is an American weekly magazine featuring journalism, commentary, criticism, essays, fiction, satire, cartoons, and poetry. Founded as a weekly in 1925, the magazine is published 47 times annually, with five of these issues ...
'' magazine. Because her St. Helena house was rented out, she moved to her sister's home in
Genoa, Nevada Genoa is an unincorporated town in Douglas County, Nevada, United States. Founded in 1851, it was the first settlement in what became the Nevada Territory. It is situated within Carson River Valley and is approximately south of Reno. The popula ...
, to work on the assignment. In 1966, Time-Life hired Fisher to write ''The Cooking of Provincial France''. She traveled to Paris to research material for the book. While there, she met Paul and Julia Child, and through them
James Beard James Andrews Beard (May 5, 1903 – January 23, 1985) was an American chef, cookbook author, teacher and television personality. He pioneered television cooking shows, taught at The James Beard Cooking School in New York City and Seaside, ...
. Child was hired to be a consultant on the book; Michael Field was the consulting editor. Field rented out the Childs' country home — La Pitchoune — to work on the book. When Fisher later moved into the house immediately after Field, she found the refrigerator empty. She remarked: "How could a person who loves food be in the south of France and not at least have a piece of cheese in the refrigerator?" Fisher was disappointed in the book's final form; it contained restaurant recipes, without regard to regional cuisine, and much of her signature prose had been cut.


Glen Ellen, California

In 1971, Fisher's friend David Bouverie, who owned a ranch in
Glen Ellen, California Glen Ellen is a census-designated place (CDP) in Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County, California, United States. The population was 784 at the 2010 census, down from 992 at the 2000 census. Glen Ellen is the location of Jack London State Historic Pa ...
, offered to build Fisher a house on his ranch. Fisher designed it, calling it "Last House". The presence of ranch staff made it easy for her to use the house as a base for frequent travels. She returned to France in 1970, 1973, 1976 and 1978, visiting, inter alia,
La Roquette La Roquette () is a commune in the Eure department in northern France France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of overseas regions and territories in the Am ...
, Marseilles, and Aix.


Death

After Dillwyn Parrish's death, Fisher considered herself a "ghost" of a person, but she continued to have a long and productive life, dying at the age of 83 in Glen Ellen, California, in 1992. She had long suffered from
Parkinson's disease Parkinson's disease (PD), or simply Parkinson's, is a long-term degenerative disorder of the central nervous system that mainly affects the motor system. The symptoms usually emerge slowly, and as the disease worsens, non-motor symptoms becom ...
and arthritis. She spent the last twenty years of her life in "Last House".


Bibliography


Books

* ''Serve It Forth'' (Harper 1937) * "Victoria Berne" (M. F. K. Fisher and Dillwyn Parrish under a pseudonym), ''Touch and Go'', a novel (Harper and Brothers 1939) * '' Consider the Oyster'' (Duell, Sloan and Pierce 1941) * ''How to Cook a Wolf'' (Duell, Sloan and Pierce 1942; revised edition: North Point Press 1954) * ''The Gastronomical Me'' (Duell, Sloan and Pierce 1943) * ''Here Let Us Feast: A Book of Banquets'' (Viking 1946; revised edition: North Point Press 1986) * ''Not Now but'' Now, a novel (Viking 1947) * ''An Alphabet for Gourmets'' (Viking 1949) *
Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (; 1 April 1755, Belley, Ain – 2 February 1826, Paris) was a French lawyer and politician, who, as the author of ''The Physiology of Taste'' (''Physiologie du Goût''), gained fame as an epicure and gastronome: ...
, ''
The Physiology of Taste Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (; 1 April 1755, Belley, Ain – 2 February 1826, Paris) was a French lawyer and politician, who, as the author of ''The Physiology of Taste'' (''Physiologie du Goût''), gained fame as an epicure and gastronome: ...
, or Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy'', translated and annotated by M. F. K. Fisher (Limited Editions Club 1949) * ''A Cordiall Water: A Garland of Odd & Old Receipts to Assuage the Ills of Man or Beast'' (Little Brown 1961) * Text by M. F. K. Fisher, photographs by
Max Yavno Max Yavno (1911–1985) was a photographer who specialized in street scenes, especially in Los Angeles and San Francisco, California. Personal life The son of Russian immigrants, Louis and "Lizzie" (Rudnick) Yavno, Max was born in New York City ...
, ''The Story of Wine in California'' (University of California Press 1962) * ''Map of Another Town: A Memoir of Provence'' (Little Brown 1964) * M. F. K. Fisher and the staff of Time-Life Books, ''The Cooking of Provincial France'' (Time-Life Books 1968), abridged version: ''Recipes: The Cooking of Provincial France'' * ''With Bold Knife and Fork'' (Putnam 1969) * ''Among Friends'' (Knopf 1971) * ''A Considerable Town'' (Knopf 1978) * ''As They Were'' (Knopf 1982) * ''Sister Age'' (Knopf 1983) . * ''Dubious Honors'' (North Point Press 1988) * ''The Boss Dog: A Story of Provence'' (Yolla Bolly Press 1990) * ''Long Ago in France: The Years in Dijon'' (Prentice Hall 1991) * ''To Begin Again: Stories and Memoirs, 1908–1929'' (Pantheon 1992) * ''Stay Me, Oh Comfort Me: Journals and Stories, 1933–1941'' (Pantheon 1993) * ''Last House: Reflections, Dreams and Observations, 1943–1991'' (Pantheon 1995) * ''The Theoretical Foot'', a novel (Counterpoint 2016)


Collections

* ''The Art of Eating'', collects ''Serve It Forth'', ''Consider the Oyster'', ''How to Cook a Wolf'', ''The Gastronomical Me'', and ''An Alphabet for Gourmets'' (MacMillan 1954) * ''Two Towns in Provence'', collects ''Map of Another Town'' and ''A Considerable Town'' (Vintage 1983) * ''A Life in Letters: Correspondence, 1929–1991'', selected and compiled by Norah K. Barr, Marsha Moran, and Patrick Moran (Counterpoint 1998) * ''The Measure of Her Powers: An M.F.K. Fisher Reader'', edited by Dominique Gioia (Counterpoint 1999) * ''From the Journals of M.F.K. Fisher'', collects ''To Begin Again'', ''Stay Me, Oh Comfort Me'', and ''Last House'' (Pantheon 1999) * ''A Stew or a Story: An Assortment of Short Works by M. F. K. Fisher'', gathered and Introduced by Joan Reardon (Shoemaker & Hoard, 2006)


Limited editions and other books

* Judith S. Clancy, ''Not a Station but a Place: Drawings/Collages of and related to the Gare de Lyon, Paris'', introduced by M. F. K. Fisher (Synergistic Press 1979) * ''Spirits of the Valley'' (Targ Editions 1985) * Catherine Plagemann, ''Fine Preserving: M.F.K. Fisher's Annotated Edition of Catherine Plagemann's Cookbook'', annotated by M. F. K. Fisher (Aris Books 1986) * Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, ''Aphorisms of Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin from His Work, The Physiology of Taste'', translated by M. F. K. Fisher (1998) * ''Two Kitchens in Provence'' (Yolla Bolly Press 1999) * ''Home Cooking: An Excerpt from a Letter to Eleanor Friede, December, 1970'' (Weatherford Press 2000)


Essays and reporting

* Originally published in the September 7, 1968 issue.


References


Further reading

*Barr, Norah Kennedy (1993), Foreword to ''Stay Me, Oh Comfort Me: journals and stories, 1933–1941, M. F. K. Fisher''. New York: Pantheon Books
A biography of M. F. K. Fisher by Janice Albert
*Ferrarry, Jeannette (1998) ''M. F. K. Fisher and Me: a Memoir of Food and Friendship'' *Reardon, Joan (2004) ''Poet of the Appetites'' New York: North Point Press (also se


Derwin, Susan (2003), "The poetics of M. F. K. Fisher", in: ''Style'', Fall 2003
Michelle Green, in: ''
New York Times ''The New York Times'' (''the Times'', ''NYT'', or the Gray Lady) is a daily newspaper based in New York City with a worldwide readership reported in 2020 to comprise a declining 840,000 paid print subscribers, and a growing 6 million paid ...
'' Aug. 31, 2008 *Zealand, Donald and Randall Tarpey-Schwed ''M.F.K. Fisher: An Annotated Bibliography'' (Createspace 2013) *Zimmerman, Anne (Counterpoint 2011) "An Extravagant Hunger: The Passionate Years of M.F.K. Fisher" *Zimmerman, Anne (Sterling Epicure 2012) "M. F. K. Fisher: Musings on Wine and Other Libations"


External links


Fisher, M.F.K. at encyclopedia.comM.F.K. Fisher Papers 1860–1995
at the
Schlesinger Library The Arthur and Elizabeth Schlesinger Library on the History of Women in America is a research library at the Radcliffe Institute for Advanced Study, Harvard University. According to Nancy F. Cott, the Carl and Lily Pforzheimer Foundation Director ...
, Harvard University *Short radio segment (script and audio
''A Thing Shared''
from ''The Gastronomical Me'' at
California Legacy Project California is a state in the Western United States, located along the Pacific Coast. With nearly 39.2million residents across a total area of approximately , it is the most populous U.S. state and the 3rd largest by area. It is also the m ...
*
Victoria Berne
at LC Authorities, 1 record (Fisher and her second husband Dillwyn Parrish as co-authors) {{DEFAULTSORT:Fisher, M. F. K. 1908 births 1992 deaths 20th-century American Episcopalians 20th-century American non-fiction writers 20th-century American women writers 20th-century diarists American diarists American food writers American women non-fiction writers James Beard Foundation Award winners The New Yorker people People from Glen Ellen, California People from St. Helena, California People from Whittier, California University of Burgundy alumni Women diarists Writers from California Members of the American Academy of Arts and Letters