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Separate Reality (climb)
''Separate Reality'' is a traditional climbing route in Yosemite National Park in California. The route is known for its exposed and dramatic crux that consists of a long crack in its horizontal roof. When it was first freed by Ron Kauk in 1978, it was one of the first climbs in the world to have a grade of (it was later downgraded one notch when a hold broke in the mid-1980s). In 1986, German climber Wolfgang Güllich free soloed the route, and the photographs by Austrian become iconic in rock climbing history. History The route was first climbed by Ron Kauk in 1978 and given a difficulty grade of ; it was later downgraded to when a block fell off near the lip, sometime in the mid-1980s, exposing a new handhold. At the time of Kauk's ascent, it was one of the first climbs in the world to have a grade of . Kauk named the route after the 1971 novel ''A Separate Reality'' by Carlos Castaneda. Kauk's partner, Lucy Parker, told '' Alpinist'' magazine that the book was ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Free Solo
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of technical ice or rock climbing where the climbers (or ''free soloists'') climb alone without ropes, harnesses or other protective equipment, forcing them to rely entirely on their own individual preparation, strength, and skill. Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and unlike bouldering, free soloists climb above safe heights, where a fall can very likely be fatal. Though many climbers have attempted free soloing, it is considered "a niche of a niche" reserved for the sport's elite, which has led many practitioners to stardom within both the media and the sport of rock climbing. "Free solo" was originally a term of climber slang, but after the popularity of the Oscar-winning film '' Free Solo'', Merriam-Webster officially added the word to their English dictionary in September 2019. Public view Many climbing communities praise the ascents, while others have concerns regarding the danger involved and the message t ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Free Solo Climbing
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of technical ice or rock climbing where the climbers (or ''free soloists'') climb alone without ropes, harnesses or other protective equipment, forcing them to rely entirely on their own individual preparation, strength, and skill. Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and unlike bouldering, free soloists climb above safe heights, where a fall can very likely be fatal. Though many climbers have attempted free soloing, it is considered "a niche of a niche" reserved for the sport's elite, which has led many practitioners to stardom within both the media and the sport of rock climbing. "Free solo" was originally a term of climber slang, but after the popularity of the Oscar-winning film ''Free Solo'', Merriam-Webster officially added the word to their English dictionary in September 2019. Public view Many climbing communities praise the ascents, while others have concerns regarding the danger involved and the message the ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Climbing Routes
A climbing route is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain, rock, or ice wall. Routes can vary dramatically in difficulty and grade; once committed to that ascent, it can sometimes be difficult to stop or return. Choice of route can be critically important. Guidebooks, if available, are helpful in providing detailed diagrams and photographs of routes. In the earliest days of hillwalking and mountaineering, climbers got to the top by whatever means got them there. Little information about how they did it is available. During the 19th century, as explorers of the Alps tried ever harder summits, it became clear that choosing an eastern face over a southwestern ridge could spell the difference between success or failure. One example was the first ascent of the Matterhorn, which had been repeatedly and unsuccessfully attempted via the southern side. The strata there tended to slope down and away while the rocks of the northeastern ridge (the one closest to ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Hubble (climb)
''Hubble'' is a short bolted sport climb at the limestone Raven Tor crag in Dovedale, in the Peak District in Derbyshire, England. When ''Hubble'' was first redpointed by English climber Ben Moon on 14 June 1990, it became the first-ever climb in the world to have a consensus climbing grade of ; and the highest grade in the English system at E9 7b. History Hubble was an aid climbing practice route that used skyhooks to pass the first two bolts, which English climbers Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt started working on in 1989. Moon and Moffatt had returned from a summer in France establishing some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world on the limestone walls of Buoux, including ''Agincourt'' and ''Maginot Line'', both at ; they wanted to set these new grade standards at home. Moon rebuilt the individual moves of ''Hubble'' in his basement and practiced them with Moffatt, in particular using a new device called a "Moon Board", which was not dissimilar to Wolfg ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Action Directe (climb)
''Action Directe'' () is a short sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus grade. It is considered an important and historic route in rock climbing history, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade, where it is considered the "benchmark" for 9a. The training techniques Güllich used to prepare for the unique physical demands of ''Action Directe'' also revolutionized climbing and what could be achieved. History A close friend of Güllich, German climber Milan Sykora introduced him to the route that he had been working on at a large limestone prow at the Waldkopf crag, which was akin to an enormous boulder. Sykora was one of the leading German climbers at the time and had created several new routes UIAA grade X. In the 1980s, Sykora had bolted a line coming from the right and had managed to climb the individual ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Realization (climb)
''Realization'', also called ''Biographie'', is a circa sport climbing route on a limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of . It is considered an historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade. History In 1989, French climber Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole circa 35 metre pitch, and named it ''Biographie'' (he did not climb it). In 1996, French climber freed the lower half, adding an anchor at his high-point and grading it . Petit estimated that the remaining unclimbed section was about but had a very difficult 7C boulder problem that he could not overcome. American climber Chris Sharma made over 30 attempts from 1996 to 2000 but could also not overcome the boulder move. In 2001, Sharma canceled his participation i ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Jumbo Love
''Jumbo Love'' is a long sport climbing route on remote limestone cliffs on Clark Mountain in the Mojave Desert. Bolted by American climber Randy Leavitt in the 1990s, he invited Chris Sharma to attempt it in 2007. When Sharma completed the first free ascent on September 11, 2008, the route became the first-ever rock climb in history to have a confirmed grade of , and an important route in rock climbing history. The route has been repeated, and its grade confirmed, by a number of subsequent climbers, including French climber Seb Bouin, who made the fourth ascent on October 25, 2022. Bouin followed up his ascent by adding a direct start to the route on November 1, 2022, to create a route called ''Suprême Jumbo Love'', which at became North America's hardest climbing route and only the sixth 9b+ sport climbing route in history. History The original route was bolted by American climber Randy Leavitt in the late 1990s, who envisaged it being a 3-pitch climb. Leavitt ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Silence (climb)
''Silence'' (also ''Project Hard''), is a severely overhanging sport climbing route in the granite Hanshelleren Cave, in Flatanger, Norway. When Czech climber Adam Ondra made the first free ascent on 3 September 2017, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a proposed climbing grade of , and it is an important route in rock climbing history. To complete the route, Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training to overcome its severely overhanging terrain. As of February 2023, ''Silence'' remains unrepeated. History Ondra bolted the route in 2012–2013while he climbed ' at Flatanger, the world's first 9b+but dropped the project for a period saying: "I could sort of imagine doing the individual moves, but I could see that linking the whole sequence, with its 8C boulder, all the way from the ground just looked way too ridiculous". After retrying it in 2015 and working through some of the technical challenges, Ondra began to commit more time to the project ca ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Salathé Wall
The ''Salathé Wall'' is one of the original technical climbing routes up El Capitan, a high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park. The ''Salathé Wall'' was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbing in Yosemite. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text '' Fifty Classic Climbs of North America'' and considered a classic around the world. Climbing history It was first ascended in 1961 by Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, and Chuck Pratt. After climbing about a quarter of the route, they retreated to re-supply, leaving four fixed ropes in place. Quickly returning, they jumared back up the ropes and totally committed to climbing the upper wall in a single push, which they did in 6 days using only 15 bolts total. The route was about 25% free climbing with sections of run-out 5.9, and the direct aid was also difficult (A4). A year later, Robbins and Frost returned and did the route in a single push from the bottom. In 1972 ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
The Nose (El Capitan)
''The Nose'' is one of the original technical climbing routes up El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb, El Capitan is now the standard for big-wall climbing. It is recognized in the historic climbing text ''Fifty Classic Climbs of North America'' and considered a classic around the world. El Capitan has two main faces, the Southwest (on the left when looking directly at the wall) and the Southeast. Between the two faces juts a massive prow. While today there are numerous established routes on both faces, the most popular and historically famous route is ''The Nose'', which follows the massive prow. First ascents Once thought to be unclimbable, the high granite walls of Yosemite Valley began to see their first attempts and first ascents in the 1950s. One of the most coveted routes was the Northwest Face of Half Dome, and among those coveting it was Californian Warren Harding (Harding made an unsuccessful attempt on Half Dome in 1955, and returned for the 1957 season ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Alex Honnold
Alexander Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his Free solo climbing, free solo ascents of Big wall climbing, big walls. Honnold rose to prominence in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, a feat that one commentator described as "one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever." Honnold also holds the record for the fastest ascent of the Yosemite triple crown, an 18-hour, 50-minute link-up of Mount Watkins, ''The Nose (El Capitan), The Nose'', and the ''Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome''. In 2015, he won a Piolet d'Or for the ''Moonwalk Traverse'' in Patagonia with Tommy Caldwell. Honnold is the author (with David Roberts (climber), David Roberts) of the memoir ''Alone on the Wall'' (2017) and the subject of the 2018 biographical documentary ''Free Solo'', which won a BAFTA and an Academy Awards, Academy Award. Life and work Honnold was born in Sacramento, California, the son of c ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Climbing (magazine)
''Climbing'' is a major US-based rock climbing magazine first published in 1970. In 2007, it was bought by Skram Media, the publisher of ''Urban Climber Magazine''. The headquarters of the magazine is in Boulder, Colorado. It is published nine times a year. Climbing was purchased by ''Outside'' in 2021. See also * ''Alpinist'' magazine * ''Summit'' magazine * ''Rock & Ice ''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became ...'' References External links * Online magazines published in the United States Sports magazines published in the United States Climbing magazines Magazines established in 1970 Magazines published in Colorado {{sport-mag-stub ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
