Śródmieście Południowe

South Downtown (Polish: ''Śródmieście Południowe'') is a neighbourhood in Warsaw, Poland, located in the Downtown district. It is mainly a mid-rise residential area, predominantly consisting of tenements and multifamily residential buildings, as well as office and commercial spaces.

The area includes the Marshal Residential District housing estate, designed in the 1950s in the socialist realistic style. There are also numerous historic tenements, some dating to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The two tallest skyscrapers, designed in the International Style, are LIM Center and Chałubińskiego 8 (170m and 150m respectively). South Downtown also includes green spaces, such as part of Mokotów Field park complex and Marshal Edward Rydz-Śmigły Park. The campus and most faculty buildings of Warsaw University of Technology are located there. Cultural institutions include the National Museum in Warsaw, the Mausoleum of Struggle and Martyrdom and the Museum of the Earth of the Polish Academy of Sciences. The neighbourhood includes three historic Roman Catholic churches, the Church of the Holiest Saviour, St. Alexander Church, and Saint Apostles Peter and Paul Church.Bartłomiej Kaczorowski (editor): ''Encyklopedia Warszawy''. Warsaw: Państwowe Wydawnictwo Naukowe PWN, 1994, p. 371. (in Polish) South Downtown also includes the Seym and Senate Complex, which houses the lower and upper houses of the Parliament of Poland.Marek Czapelski: ''Gmachy Sejmu i Senatu''. Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Sejmowe, 2010. . (in Polish) There are also headquarters of numerous government ministries and agencies, and foreign embassies. The Politechnika station of the M1 line of the Warsaw Metro is also located in the neighbourhood.

The area of South Downtown began developing in the 18th century from small suburban towns, including Bielino, Bożydar-Kałęczyn, and Nowogrodzka. Between 1768 and 1770 the Stanisław Axis was developed which is a series of roads and urban squares which connect the city with the Ujazdów Castle. In 1770, fortification lines, known as the Lubomirski Ramparts, were erected surrounding the city. In 1791, the area was incorporated into the city of Warsaw.

Development continued in the 19th century, especially following the opening of the Vienna Station in 1845.''Encyklopedia Warszawy''. Warsaw: Polish Scientific Publishers PWN, 1994, p. 159. . (In Polish). It led to the construction of luxury tenements, with restaurants, stores and services in the area.Jarosław Zieliński: ''Atlas dawnej architektury ulic i placów Warszawy''. vol. 14. Warsaw: Towarzystwo Opieki nad Zabytkami, 2008. (In Polish). In 1898, the Warsaw University of Technology was founded. In 1910, in the southwest part of the neighbourhood, the Mokotów Aerodrome was opened.

In 1939, while the city was under German occupation during the Second World War, the section of South Downtown centred on Szucha Avenue was turned into the Police District, a restricted area housing the Security Police and the Gestapo. During the Warsaw Uprising, from 1 September 1944, the area became a battleground of German forces and Polish participants of the Home Army. Following the defeat of the uprising, the population was evicted, and a large portion of the city was razed, including South Downtown, which had already been heavily destroyed. The neighbourhood and many of its historical buildings were rebuilt after the war.

Followed the end of the conflict, new housing estates were built, as well as the Marshal Edward Rydz-Śmigły Park. Between 1970s and 1990s, development continued with the complex of skyscrapers, multistorey stores and apartment buildings named the West Wall. It included two skyscrapers, Chałubińskiego 8 and LIM Center, opened in 1975 and 1989. Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, the area of the former Mokotów Aerodrome was developed into a large urban park, the Mokotów Field. In 1995, the Politechnika station of the Warsaw Metro opened.

History

As a suburban area (until 1791)

In the 18th century, in the area of modern South Downtown began being developed suburbian towns, located near the towns of Old Warsaw and New Warsaw. They legally functioned as the ''jurydyka'' suburban towns in the Warsaw agglomeration, established with royal decrees, and independent from Old Warsaw itself, including free from paying taxes and following its laws.Daniela Kosacka: ''Północna Warszawa w XVIII wieku''. Warsaw: Polish Scientific Publishers PWN, 1970, p. 59. (In Polish). They were Bożydar-Kałęczyn in the area of modern Jerusalem Avenue, established in 1702,''Encyklopedia Warszawy''. Warsaw: Polish Scientific Publishers PWN, 1994, p. 548. . (In Polish). southern portion of Bielino, in the area of Wilcza Street established in 1766,''Encyklopedia Warszawy''. Warsaw: Polish Scientific Publishers PWN, 1994. . (In Polish). and Nowogrodzka, in the area of Nowogrodzka Street, established in 1767.Kwiryna Handke: ''Dzieje Warszawy nazwami pisane''. Warsaw: Muzeum Historyczne m.st. Warszawy, 2011, p. 168. . (In Polish).''Encyklopedia Warszawy''. Warsaw: Polish Scientific Publishers PWN, 1994, p. 300. . (In Polish).

Between 1768 and 1770, in the area of South Downtown and Ujazdów, from the initiative of the king Stanisław August Poniatowski, was developed the Stanisław Axis, the urban layout made of five squares and roads, connecting the city with the Ujazdów Castle. The five squares were: Crossroads, Polytechnic, Saviour, Three Crosses, and Union of Lublin. The main route of the area was the Royal Road, which connected the Ujazdów Castle to the Wola Election Field where took place the royal elections. It was placed along the Piaseczno Cannal. The other main streets of the urban layout were modern Nowowiejska, Niemcewicza, Prądzyńskiego Streets, and Emancipation Avenue.Eugeniusz Szwankowski: ''Ulice i place Warszawy''. Warsaw: Państwowe Wydawnictwo Naukowe, 1970, p. 232. (In Polish).

In 1770, to the south of Warsaw agglomeration were erected the fortification lines, known as the Lubomirski Ramparts, which surrounded the city.''Encyklopedia Warszawy''. Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Naukowe PWN, 1994, p. 569. . (in Polish) Across the lines were set up tollhouses as the only entrances to the city, including at the Union of Lublin Square.''Encyklopedia Warszawy''. Warszawa: Wydawnictwo Naukowe PWN, 1994, p. 732. . (in Polish) Later, in 1818, at the location were opened the new Mokotów Tollhouses designed in Neoclassical style, which stant there to the present day.Juliusz A. Chrościcki, Andrzej Rottermund: ''Atlas architektury Warszawy''. Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Arkady, 1977, p. 208. (in Polish)

In the past, through the area flowed Żurawka river, until it was channelised in the 18th century, to flow underground, underneath modern streets of Żurawia, Three Crosses Square, Czerniakowska, and Okrąąg Street. It began at the swamps near modern Starynkiewicz Square, and ended in Vistula river. Due to a large quantity of flowing water, was the most important river in southern Warsaw.

In 1774, in Bożydar-Kałęczyn, then owned by August Kazimierz Sułkowski, was established the neighbourhood of Nowa Jerozolima (lit. from Polish: ''New Jerusalem''), inhabited by the Jewish population. It was located between the modern Artur Zawisza Square and the Kaliska Street. It existed in violation of the law which forbid Jewish people, from living in Old Warsaw, and in 2 mile (3.2 km) radius from it. As such the city hall of Old Warsaw sued Sułkowski, demanding the neighbourhood be destroyed. Despite protests of the Jewish population, the neighbourhood had been destroyed on 23 January 1776, with its inhabitants displaced, their trading goods confiscated, and the houses being torn down.Jarosław Zieliński.
Z dziejów Ochoty. Plac Zawiszy
'. In: ''Ochotnik'', issue 30, p. 5, 2007. (In Polish).

In 1776 prince Kazimierz Poniatowski founded two garden complexes, Na Książecem and Na Górce, which would later form Na Książęcem Park and Frascati Gardens respectively. They were located to the east of the Three Crosses Square, in the area of the current Książęca Street.Eugeniusz Szwankowski: ''Ulice i place Warszawy'', Warsaw: Państwowe Wydawnictwo Naukowe, 1970, p. 104. (in Polish)Jerzy Kasprzycki: ''Korzenie miasta: Śródmieście południowe''. Warsaw: Veda, 1996, p. 18. (in Polish) The Na Książęcem Park also included the Elizeum, an underground rotunda with corridors and caves.

In the late 18th century, in the area had a triangular shape, marked out by Koszykowa, Śniadeckich, and Noakowskiego Streets, founded the landed estate of Koszyki, owned by King Stanisław August Poniatowski. In 1778, he gave it to diplomat Pierre-Maurice Glayre, who built there a small resistance of the Koszyki Manor House. Over time there was also developed a small settlement. It changed ownership several times, and in 1872, it was partitioned and sold to construct tenements. The manor house itself was deconstructed in 1899.

In 1784, nearby, from the initiative of King Stanisław August Poniatowski, in the area of modern Nowowiejska Street, was founded the settlement of Nowa Wieś (lit. from Polish: ''New Village''), to which were settled the inhabitants of the village of Ujazdów, who were displaced due to construction of the Ujazdów Castle there. It consisted of 12 houses, symmetrically placed in two rows along the Royal Road (also known as Wolska Avenue), located between modern Saviour and Polytechnic Square.Jarosław Zieliński: ''Atlas dawnej architektury ulic i placów Warszawy''. vol. 14. Warsaw: Biblioteka Towarzystwa Opieki nad Zabytkami, 2008, p. 11. . (In Polish). The village also owned 106 hectares (1.06 km² or 0.4 square miles) of farmlands, which were very profitable.''Encyklopedia Warszawy''. Warsaw: Polish Scientific Publishers PWN, 1994, p. 549. . (in Polish)

As a part of the city, prior to the Second World War (1791–1939)

In 1791, in accordance with the ''Free Royal Cities Act'', the towns of Bielino, Bożydar-Kałęczyn, and Nowogrodzka, together with other suburban towns, as well as towns of Old Warsaw, and New Warsaw, were combined into a singular entity, forming the city of Warsaw. The execution of the act was blocked by the Targowica Confederation, which delayed the incorporation to 1794.

On 9 August 1783 was opened the Holy Cross Cemetery, operated by the Catholic parish of the Holy Cross Church. It was located near the Koszyki Manor House, outside of city boundaries, between Marszłkowska, Nowogrodzka, Plater, and Wspólna Streets. Following the Third Partition of Poland in 1795, the Prussian administration forbade the burying of deceased in the city, resulting in a large increase in the popularity of the cemetery. By 1820, it was overcrowded, and in total, there were buried over 130,000 people. It was closed for new burials on 29 July 1831, and fully closed on 17 March 1836. By 1851, the unmaintained cemetery fell into decay, and in 1859, the city authorities had decided to demolish it. The families were given the possibility to move their relatives to the Powązki Cemetery until 1 January 1860, after which the remaining bodies were removed and placed into mass graves. In the following five years, the remains of the cemetery were removed and in its place were planted trees and bushes.K. Mórawski: ''Przewodnik historyczny po cmentarzach warszawskich'', Warszawa: Wydawnictwo Polskiego Towarzystwa Turystyczno-Krajoznawczego "Kraj", 1989, , OCLC 834707122. (in Polish) In 1866, the chappel at current 68 Wspólna Street, near the former cemetery was turned into the St. Barbara Chappel. Between 1883 and 1885, nearby, at the current 51 Nowogrodzka Street, was constructed a larger Catholic St. Apostles Peter and Paul Church.Jacek Wołowski: ''Moja Warszawa''. Warsaw: Państwowe Wydawnictwo Naukowe, 1979, p. 187. . (in Polish)

In 1818, the farmlands outside of the urban area were bought by the city, to organize there the military exercises, with the area being later known as the Mokotów War Field. From around 1825, it became the cavalry drill site.A. Wagner:
Styk trzech dzielnic Warszawy: Śródmieścia, Mokotowa i Ochoty w okresie międzywojennym – wpływ podziału własnościowego (państwo, wojsko, miasto) na typ realizowanej architektury
'. In: ''Kwartalnik Architektury i Urbanistyki'', issue 3, 2011, p. 61–92 (in Polish). In 1916, the area of the Mokotów War Field had been incorporated into the city of Warsaw.A. Gawryszewski,
Ludność Warszawy w XX wieku
'. Warsaw: Instytut Geografii i Przestrzennego Zagospodarowania PAN im. Stanisława Leszczyckiego, 2009, p. 27–29, (In Polish).

In 1825, was opened the St. Aleksander Church, located at the Three Crosses Square.

In 1827, in the area between Piękna Street and Róż Avenue, was opened the Swiss Valley Park.Robert Marcinkowski: ''Ilustrowany atlas dawnej Warszawy''. Warsaw: Stowarzyszenie Studentów i Absolwentów Wydziału Geografii i Studiów Regionalnych Uniwersytetu Warszawskiego PANGEA, 2003, p. 199. . (in Polish)

In 1870 was opened the Warsaw Pomological Garden, an orchad and urban park, which was opened until 1944, when it was destroyed during the Second World War. It was located between Nowogrodzka, Plater, Wspólna and Chałubińskiego Streets.

In the first half of the 19th century, at the Mokotów War Field had been constructed a horce race track, thanks to the efforts of Ivan Paskevich, Viceroy of Poland. On 20 June 1841, there was hosted the first horse formally organised in the Kingdom of Poland. In the following years, there were sporadically held various horse races and exhibitions. They were eventually outlawed in 1861, with the ban being lifted in 1880.Andrzej Rybiec:
Wczoraj i dziś warszawskich wyścigów
, ''Stolica'', no. 2184. Warsaw, 2007. (in Polish)
Jarosław Zieliński: ''Ochotnicy na spacer''. Warsaw: Veda, 2010, p. 38–43, . (in Polish) As such, in 1887, at Polna Street, was opened the Mokotów Field Horce Race Track. In 1895, there was held the first annual Great Warsaw Race, which became the most prestigious horce race in Poland. The venue was closed down in 1938, and its events moved to the Służewiec Horse Racing Track, located to the south.

The major development in the area of South Downtown begun in the second half of the 19th century, due to the construction of the Vienna Station in 1845, which was the main Waraw railway station of the Warsaw–Vienna railway line. It was located at the crossing of Jerusalem Avenue and Marszałkowska Street. Along both streets luxury tenements were built. By 1912, the entire area, all the way to the Union of Lublin Square, was fully developed. In the area were also present many restaurants, stores, and services.

In 1895 was opened the Maurycy Mitte Secondary School of Mechanics and Machinery, vocational school of mechanics, located at 4 and 6 Mokotowska Street, and would eventually become known as the Hipolit Wawelberg and Stanisław Rotwand Engineering School. Since 1909, it unofficially functioned as a technological university, and was nationalised in 1919. It received the official status of a university in 1929. In 1933, it was moved to a new location at 14 Św. Andrzeja Boboli Street, where it operated until its closing in 1951. Its former building was destroyed during the Second World War.

On 8 June 1898, at 81 Marszałkowska Street, is opened the Warsaw University of Technology (then known as the ''Tsar Nicholas II Polytechnic Institute''). In 1901 it was moved its Main Building at 1 Polytechnic Square, which was then opened. The same year, there were also opened a few other facility buildings. Its campus continued developing in the following decades, with new faculties opened throughout the 1920s and 1930s.

In late 1894, the area around Ujazdów Avenue, became a luxurious neighbourhood mostly inhabited by a wealthy Russian population.Piotr Paszkiewicz: ''Pod berłem Romanowów. Sztuka rosyjska w Warszawie 1815–1915''. Warsaw, 1991. (in Polish) In 1894, at 12 Ujazdów Avenue and next to the Crossroads Square, was opened the Russian Orthodox Church of the Archangel Michael, which mainly served Russian soldiers and civilians living in the neighbourhood. Following the retreat of the Imperial Russian Army from Warsaw in 1915, the Russian population mostly fled the city, and the building remained mostly unoccupied and unused, and begun deteriorating. It was eventually torn down in 1923.Piotr Paszkiewicz: ''Pod berłem Romanowów. Sztuka rosyjska w Warszawie 1815–1915'', Warsaw, 1991, p. 103. (in Polish)

In 1881, there was opened the second horsecar line in the city, connecting the Union of Lublin Square with Muranów. In 1908, it was replaced with an electric tram line. In 1892, next to the square, between Puławska and Chocimska Streets, was opened the Warsaw narrow-gauge railway station (later renamed to ''Warsaw Mokotów'' in 1930). It was part of two lines operated by the Wilanów Railway. In 1898, there was also added line of the Grójec Commuter Railway. The station was moved in 1935 further south, to the intersection of Puławska and Odyńca Streets, where it operated until 1938.

In 1909, at 61 and 63 Koszykowa Street was opened a large market hall known as the Koszyki Hall.Jarosław Zieliński: ''Atlas dawnej architektury ulic i placów Warszawy'', vol. 6. Kępna–Koźmińska. Warsaw: Biblioteka Towarzystwa Opieki nad Zabytkami, 2000, p. 180. . (in Polish)

In 1910, at the Mokotów War Field was also established the Mokotów Aerodrome by the Awiata Warsaw Aviation Association. It was the first aerodrome in the city. Until the outbreak of the First World War, it was a popular civil and sports airfield.Hubert Mordawski: ''Siły powietrzne w I wojnie światowej''. Wrocław: Wydawnictwo Dolnośląskie, 2008, p. 45–46. . (in Polish) Following the beginning of the war in 1915, it began being used by the Imperial Russian Air Service, which stationed six fighter planes there to defend the city. In August of the same year, the aerodrome was captured and used by the German Air Combat Forces. The infrastructure was updated and expanded, and there were constructed 21 hangars, including for the Parseval airships. After the end of the war, and establishment of the independent Second Polish Republic, in 1919, the aerodrome became a base for growing military and civilian aviation industry.Ryszard Mączewski: ''Warszawa między wojnami''. Łódź: Księży Młyn, 2009, s. 63. . (in Polish) Since 1920, there were chartered international passenger flights, and in 1929, it became the headquarters of then-established national LOT Polish Airlines. It was also a venue for numerous air shows, parades, and international aviation tournaments.''Encyklopedia Warszawy''. Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Naukowe PWN, 1994, p. 653. . (in Polish) In 1934, the passenger traffic was moved to the Warsaw Chopin Airport in Okęcie.

In 1918, it was decided to adapt the abandoned building of the all-female high school, located at Wiejska Street, to house the Legislative Seym of the Poland.Małgorzata Omilanowska: ''Pierwsza siedziba Sejmu II Rzeczypospolitej. Addenda et corrigenda''. In: ''Biuletyn Historii Sztuki''. issue 83, no. 1, p. 121, 124. 2021. (In Polish). Following the renovations, on 10 February 1919, took place the first meeting of the Legislative Seym in the building. In 1922, the nearby abandoned lazaret building, was adopted to house the Senate of Poland.Małgorzata Omilanowska: ''Pierwsza siedziba Sejmu II Rzeczypospolitej. Addenda et corrigenda''. In: ''Biuletyn Historii Sztuki''. issue 83, no. 1, p. 143, 147 2021. (In Polish). Between 1925 and 1935, the complex had been furtherly expanded forming the Seym and Senate Complex.Jarosław Zieliński: ''Wiejska od 1770 r.'' In: ''Stolica'', p. 19, November–December 2019. (In Polish).

Between 1901 and 1927, next to the Saviour Square was constructed the Catholic Church of the Holiest Saviour.''Bibliografia Warszawy: Wydawnictwa ciąłe, 1919–1928''. Warsaw: Zakład Narodowy im. Ossolińskich, 1977, p. 1577. (in Polish)

In 1925, the portion of the Frascati Gardens was sold of and replaced with a neighbourhood of villas, centred on Frascati Street. In the 1930s, in was further developed with luxury tenements.Jarosław Zieliński: ''Atlas dawnej architektury ulic i placów Warszawy'', vol. 3. Warsaw: Towarzystwo Opieki nad Zabytkami, 1995, s. 157. .

In 1927, on Nowogrodzka Street, were opened two railway stations. They were Warszawa Marszałkowska EKD of the Electric Commuter Railways, located at between Marszałkowska and Poznańska Streets, and Warszawa Chałubińskiego WKD of the Warsaw Commuter Railway, located between Chałubińskiego and Plater Streets. They were closed in 1957 and 1963 respectively.

From 1927 to 1938, at 1 and 3 Jerusalem Avenue, was constructed new building of the National Museum in Warsaw. Some portions of the museum were opened to the public years before the end of the final construction.Grzegorz Piątek: ''Sanator. Kariera Stefana Starzyńskiego''. Warsaw Wydawnictwo WAB, 2016, p. 221. . (in Polish) In 1933, in the eastern wing of the building was opened the Polish Army Museum, where it remained until 2023, when it moved to the Warsaw Citadel.

In 1934, at 45 Nowogrodzka Street, was opened the Telecommunication Systems Centre, which housed the Central Telecommunications Office. It was the first building in Poland to be built with the steel frame construction.

Second World War (1939–1945)

On 1 September 1939, Nazi Germany had invaded Poland, beginning the Second World War. During the Siege of Warsaw, the Mokotów Aerodrome in the South Downtown was used as the Polish Air Force base housing fighter planes used in the air defence.Piotr Rozwadowski (editor): ''Wielka Ilustrowana Encyklopedia Powstania Warszawskiego'', vol. 1. Warsaw: Dom Wydawniczy Bellona and Fundacja Warszawa Walczy 1939–1945, 2005, p. 581. . (in Polish) The city of Warsaw had capitulated to the invading forces on 28 September 1939, becoming part of the occupied territories of the General Government. It was captured and used by the for the anti-aircraft defence.

Between October 1939 and April 1940, as part of the Intelligentsia mass shootings, the members of Polish intelligentsia, including teachers, priests, physicians, and other prominent members of Polish society, had been executed by the occupants, in the gardens of Seym building. It remains unknown how many people were killed, however, historians estimate the number between a few hundred and a thousand people.

In the southeastern portion of the South Downtown, was established the Police District, with Ujazdów Avenue, Nowowiejska Street, Klonowa Street, and the Flory Street forming its boundaries. The main route of the district was Szucha Avenue, which was renamed to Police Street (German: ''Strasse der Polizei'').Tadeusz Sawicki: ''Rozkaz zdławić powstanie. Niemcy i ich sojusznicy w walce z powstaniem warszawskim''. Warsaw: Bellona, 2010, p. 9–10. . (in Polish) The district was designated only for German population, with other ethnicities being banned from entering it. The Government District located in the area of the Piłsudski Square in North Downtown, which housed government buildings had same restrictions. Since April 1942, both areas have been connected via tram line no. 0, that was also designated only for German passengers.

The Police District was originally planned to be part of the bigger German District, which would be limited only for the German population. It was envisioned to occupy most of South Downtown and a large portion of Mokotów. The plan was never realised, as, there were not enough people interested in settling in the area.

The area had been transformed to house offices of the occupant law enforcement structures and apartments for their employees. The most important of them was the building of the former Ministry of Religious Affairs and Public Education located at the 25 Szucha Avenue, which was refitted into the Commander-in-Chief of Security Police Office of the Warsaw District building, which housed the headquarters of the Security Police and Gestapo (Secret State Police). It employed around 300 people, with their offices being located at the second and third floors. At the first floor and in the basement were located holding cells and interrogation rooms, where were held people suspected to be connected to the Polish resistance movement. Prisoners were brutally tortured force the confessions, causing many of them to die. Around 100 people were interrogated there every day.Grzegorz Mika, Patryk Pleskot: ''Szucha 25. Pierwsze ministerstwo wolnej Polski''. Warsaw: Institute of National Remembrance, 2022. p. 135-175. . (in Polish)

Other notable buildings in the area were:
* the headquarters of the commander in chief of the Order Police, located in the Supreme Audit Office Building at the 23 Szucha Avenue;Krzysztof Dunin-Wąsowicz: ''Warszawa w latach 1939–1945''. Warsaw: Polish Scientific Publishers PWN, 1984, p. 57. . (in Polish)
* the headquarters of the SS and Police Leader of the Warsaw District, located in the Gawroński Villa at the 23 Ujazdów Avenue;Witold Żarnowski: ''Raczej zginąć niż zdradzić sprawę. Areszt śledczy gestapo w al. Szucha 25''. Warsaw: Institute of National Remembrance and Museum of Independence, 2014, p. 26. . (in Polish)
* the headquarters of the Criminal Police, located at the 7 and 9 Ujazdów Avenue (currently 11 Ujazdów Avenue);Aleksander Kunicki: ''Cichy front. Ze wspomnień oficera wywiadu dywersyjnego dyspozycyjnych oddziałów Kedywu KG AK''. Warsaw: Instytut Wydawniczy Pax, 1969, p. 123. (in Polish)
* the Garrison Officer Casino Building located at the 29 Szucha Avenue, which operated as the casino for Polish population collaborating with the occupying forces;
* the Re-education Labour Camp of the Security Police, located at the 14 Litewska Street, which, from Autumn 1943 to 1944, operated as a labour camp for the Polish prisoners convicted of light crimes.

The Police District was protected by security forces, stationed around its boundaries, including two battalions of the Order Police, stationed in the Seym and Senate Complex at the Wiejska Street.

Throughout the war, the Polish resistance movement organized a few attacks aimed at the occupants in the Police District. On 19 May 1942, members of the Polish Socialists, disguised as customers, had planted a bomb in the casino building at 29 Szucha Avenue, which served Poles who collaborated with occupants. The explosion had killed 7 people, and wounded a few more. On 5 October 1943, in the Operation Milke, the Agat squad of the Home Army had attempted to assassinate Alfed Milke, collaborator and officer of Gestapo. The assassination did not happen, as Milke did not come to the place of the planned attack. However, a portion of the squad, placed at Szucha Avenue, were spotted by walking by Protection Squadron officer. He was immediately shot by them, after which, the entire squad had retreated without any own casualties. The killed office was Joseph Lechner, the ''Obersturmführer'' (senior storm leader) of the Security Service, and chief of office of the Security Service and Security Police of the Warsaw District. On 1 February 1944, in the Operation Kutschera, the Pegaz (previously known as ''Agat'') squad of the Home Amy had assassinated Franz Kutschera, the SS and Police Leader of the Warsaw District, responsible for the summary executions of about 5000 people in Warsaw. It was the most important successful operation of the Home Army, aimed against high-ranking occupant officers during the war. On 6 May 1944, in the Operation Stamm, at the Szucha Avenue, the Pegaz squad had attempted to assassinate Walter Stamm, the ''Sturmbannführer'' (assault unit leader) of the Protection Squadron, and the chief of Gestapo. The operation ended with failure, with squad losing eight people, and not managing to kill the target. It was one of the largest and deadliest operations carried out by the Home Army during the war.

On 1 September 1944, at 5:00 PM (in the event known under codename W-Hour) the Polish resistance Home Army had begun the Operation Tempest against occupying German forces across the city, which begun the Warsaw Uprising. One of the targets of the operation was the Police District, with the key target there being the headquarters of the Security Police. It was attacked by Ruczaj Battalion and Jeleń Division, which were poorly equipped.Adam Borkiewicz: ''Powstanie warszawskie. Zarys działań natury wojskowej''. Warsaw: Instytut Wydawniczy PAX. 1969. p. 63–64. (in Polish)

During the first phase of fighting, partisans had managed, with huge casualties, to capture the casino building, the portion of ruins of the former building of the General Inspector of the Armed Forces (currently the building of the Chancellery of the Prime Minister), and the car workshops on Bagatela Street. They had also unsuccessfully attempted to capture the headquarters of the Security Police, which was protected b around 800 well-equipped police and Gestapo officers, commanded by Paul Otto Geibel, the ''Oberführer'' (senior leader) of the Protection Squadron, and the SS and police leader of Warsaw District. Partisans had also shot at the building from the mortar, which forced Geibel to hide in the underground shelter. After two hours of fighting, when partisans had run out of ammunition, the German forces had gone into the offensive. They had managed to cut off the portion of partisans of the Ruczaj Battalion in the casino building, commanded by lieutenant Zygmunt Manikowski (codename "Kosma"), from the rest of their forces, after which, Manikowski and his squad were killed. The rest of the partisans were pushed back to their starting positions. The wounded and captured partisans were executed.

On 1 September 1944, the Bełt Battalion of the Polish resistance forces managed to occupy a portion of the Jerusalem Avenue, between Marszałkowska Street and Bracka Street. In the first days of the uprising, to fortify their position, the Bełt and Kiliński Battalions built a barricade between buildings with numbers 17 (now no. 23) and 22, between Marszałkowska Street and Krucza Street. It became an important line of communications, as the only connection of partisans between the south and north portions of the city.Andrzej Krzysztof Kunert (editor): ''Wielka ilustrowana encyklopedia Powstania Warszawskiego'', vol. 1. Warsaw: ARS Print, 1997. (in Polish) The barricade was under daily attacks and artillery and aerial bombardment from German forces, who tried to capture and destroy it. Despite that, the partisans managed to keep their positions there until the end of the uprising.Izabella Maliszewska, Stanisław Maliszewski: ''Śródmieście Południowe. Przewodnik historyczny po miejscach walk i pamięci z lat 1939-1944 ''. Warsaw: Warszawa Walczy1939-1945, 2001. . (in Polish)

Following the outbreak of the uprising, German officers in the city received orders to raise it to the ground and executive the entire Polish population.Szymon Datner, Kazimierz Leszczyński: ''Zbrodnie okupanta w czasie powstania warszawskiego w 1944 roku (w dokumentach)''. Warszawa: MON, 1962, p. 418. (in Polish) It was done by expelling people from their houses, and burning buildings, section by section, starting from around the headquarters of Security Police. The inhabitants were rounded up by at Szucha Avenue, where they were selected into groups. A portion, mostly women and children were expelled to the insurgent-controlled zones. Some people were also kept as forced labourers or hostages. The remaining people were set to be executed.''Ludność cywilna w powstaniu warszawskim'', vol. 2, part 2. Warsaw: Państwowy Instytut Wydawniczy, 1974, p. 451–462. (in Polish) Mass executions were first conducted at the Jordan garden at Bagatela Street, and later, in the ruins of the former building of General Inspector of the Armed Forces at 1 and 3 Ujazdów Avenue. Most of the people executed there were adult men and young boys deemed capable of fighting in the uprising, though in the first days, there were also killed women and young children. The bodies were cremated in the building. After 5 August, the number of executions done in the area has decreased.''Ludność cywilna w powstaniu warszawskim'', vol. 2, part 2. Warsaw: Państwowy Instytut Wydawniczy, 1974, p. 565. (in Polish) Since then, most of people killed there came from other parts of the city, including Siekierki, Sielce, Solec, and Upper Mokotów. The executions lasted until early October. While the exact numbers remain unknown, it is estimated that between five and ten thousand people were executed there.Maja Motyl, Stanisław Rutkowski: ''Powstanie Warszawskie – rejestr miejsc i faktów zbrodni''. Warszawa: GKBZpNP-IPN, 1994, p. 167. (in Polish)

The uprising lasted until 3 October 1944. Following the capitulation, the population was evicted, and a large portion of the city was razed to the ground.
Thisvily luded South Downtown, which was already was heavily destroyed during the conflict.Marek Getter: "Straty ludzkie i materialne w Powstaniu Warszawskim", ''Biuletyn IPN'', issue 8–9 (43–44). Warsaw: National Remembrance Institute, 2004, p. 74 (in Polish) The neighbourhood and many of its historical buildings were rebuilt after the war.

After the Second World War (1945–present)

The Mokotów Aerodrome remained operational until 1947.

From 1950 to 1952, in the area along Marszałkowska Street, from Wilcza Street to the north, and Union of Lublin Square to the south, was built new housing estate of the Marshal Residential District. It was designed in the socialist realistic style and consisted of the multifamily residential buildings, constructed mostly in place of those destroyed during the Second World War, though it also incorporated several surviving tenements, mostly in its southern portion.Eugeniusz Szwankowski: ''Ulice i place Warszawy''. Warsaw: Państwowe Wydawnictwo Naukowe, 1963, p. 116. (in Polish)Jarosław Zieliński: ''Realizm socjalistyczny w Warszawie''. Warsaw: Fundacja Hereditas, 2009, p. 77–78. . (in Polish) It also incorporated partially surviving architecture of the Saviour Square, located in its southern section, next to which was rebuilding the historic Church of the Holiest Saviour. In its northern portion was centred on then-built Constitution Square.Eugeniusz Szwankowski: ''Ulice i place Warszawy''. Warsaw: Państwowe Wydawnictwo Naukowe, 1963, p. 79–80. (in Polish) Between 1953 and 1957, the Marshal Residential District was expanded to the southeast, with the housing estate of Latawiec.Barbara Petrozolin-Skowrońska (editor): ''Encyklopedia Warszawy'', Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Naukowe PWN, 1994, p. 470, . (in Polish)Anna Cymer: ''Architektura w Polsce 1945–1989'', second edition. Warsaw: Fundacja Centrum Architektury, Narodowy Instytut Architektury i Urbanistyki, 2019, p. 97–98. . (in Polish)

In 1952, to the south of the Marshal Residential District was built the People's Army Avenue, which would later become part of the Baths Route, an expressway build between 1971 and 1974, which connects the city centre with the east side.

In 1951, at 6 and 12 New World Street, was opened the Banking and Finance Centre, originally known as the ''Party House''. It was built as the headquarters of the Polish United Workers' Party, which was the governing party of Poland until 1989.Andrzej Skalimowski: ''Dom Partii. Historia gmachu KC PZPR w Warszawie''. Warsaw: Neriton, 2010, . (in Polish) From 1991 to 2000, the building housed the Warsaw Stock Exchange, until it moved to the Stock Exchange Center at 4 Książeca Street in 2000.

In 1951, at 208 Independence Avenue was constructed the headquarters of the Central Statistical Office. The nearby campus of the Warsaw University of Technology, also began being further developed, with new faculty buildings being opened throughout the 1950s and 1960s.

In 1955, in the area of Warsaw Escarpment was opened the Central Culture Park, renamed in 1992 to the Marshal Edward Rydz-Śmigły Park. It was developed in place of the former Frascati Gardens, and also incorporated the Na Książęcem Park.''Encyklopedia Warszawy''. Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Naukowe PWN, 1994, p. 618. . (in Polish)

In 1962, at 2 Puławska Street, next to the Union of Lublin Square was opened Supersam, the first supermarket in the country. It was considered a notable example of the modern architecture in Poland. It operated until 2006, when it was deconstructed.

In 1964, at 12 Waryńskiego Street was opened skyscraper Riviera, which became a dormitory for students of the Warsaw University of Technology. With the height from base to the roof equal 67 m (219.8 ft.) and a total height of around 80 m (262.5 ft.), it was the second tallest building in the city, after the Palace of Culture and Science. It kept said title until 1969.Anna Agata Wagner: ''Architektura Politechniki Warszawskiej''. Warsaw: Oficyna Wydawnicza Politechniki Warszawskiej, 2001, p. 243. . (in Polish)

In 1974, was opened Novotel Warszawa Centrum (originally known as ''Hotel Forum''), located at 94 and 98 Marszałkowska Street. With total height of 111 m (364.1 ft.), it was the second tallest building in the city until 1975.

Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, the area of the former Mokotów Aerodrome was developed into a large urban park, known as the Mokotów Field. Its construction begun in 1977, and it was opened in sections, that were finished in 1983, 1986, and 1991.Jarosław Zieliński: ''Ochotnicy na spacer'', Warsaw: Veda, 2010, p. 38–43, (in Polish)

In 1975, in the area of the crossing of Jerusalem Avenue and Chałubińskiego Street, was begun the construction of the building complex of skyscrapers, multistorey stores and apartment buildings named the West Wall. The further development of the investment was stopped in 1989, leaving only the two first two skyscrapers to be constructed, both designed in the International Style.Tadeusz Przemysław Szafer: ''Nowa architektura polska: diariusz lat 1971–1975''. Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Arkady, 1979, p. 227. 232–233. . (in Polish) The first of them, located at 8 Chałubińskiego Street, was the Chałubińskiego 8, (originally known as ''Intraco II''), was finished in 1978, with the hight from the base to the roof equal 140 m (459.3 ft.), and the total height of 150 m (492.1 ft.). The second building, located at 65/79 Jerusalem Avenue, was finished in 1989, was LIM Center, with the height from its base to the roof equal 140 m (459.3 ft), and the total height of 170 m (557.7). Upon the end of construction, both buildings held respectively the title of the second highest building in the city, with the latter keeping it until 1998.

On 7 April 1995, in the neighbourhood was opened the Politechnika station of the M1 line of the Warsaw Metro rapid transit underground system. It is located at the intersection of Waryńskiego Street and People's Army Avenue.

On 8 July 2012, at the Saviour Square was unveiled the Rainbow art installation, made by Julita Wójcik, which consisted of a metal arch, covered in thousands of platic colourful flowers. It became associated with the LGBT rights movement due its resemblance to its symbol, the rainbow flag. Said association, and its location near the Church if the Holiest Saviour, has caused numerous controversies and protests in conservative groups, with many calls for its removal. The sculpture was set on fire at night from 12 to 13 October 2012 by an arsonist. Between 2012 and 2014, the installation was set on fire by arsonists four more times, including by a large group of far-right rioters during the celebrations of the National Independence Day of Poland on 11 November 2013. It was rebuilt each time. It was eventually permanently removed by the city on 27 August 2015.

In 2013, at 2 Puławska Street near the Union of Lublin Square, was opened skyscraper Plac Unii. It functions as an office building and the shopping centre, and has the total height of 90 m (295.3 ft). It is located within the City Information System area of Old Mokotów, at the boundary with South Downtown.

In 2016, at 61 and 63 Koszykowa Street was opened new Koszyki Hall, which was built in place of the former historical building that was deconstructed in 2009. In its construction were preserved fragments of the previous hall, including its arcades.

Characteristics

Housing, commercial, and office areas

South Downtown consists of mid-rise residential area, predominantly made out of tenements and multifamily residential buildings.
Studium uwarunkowań i kierunków zagospodarowania przestrzennego miasta stołecznego Warszawy ze zmianami
'. Warsaw: Warsaw City Council, 1 March 2018, pp. 10–14. (in Polish) A prominent example of this is the housing estate of the Marshal Residential District, centred on the Marszałkowska Street, between Constitution and Saviour Squares. It consists of multifamily residential buildings designed in the socialist realistic style. Near it is also the neighbourhood of Latawiec, placed between Crossroads Square, People's Army Avenue, and Koszykowa, Marszałkowska, and Mokotowska Streets.Lech Chmielewski: ''Przewodnik warszawski. Gawęda o nowej Warszawie''. Warsaw: Agencja Omnipress, Państwowe Przedsiębiorstwo Wydawnicze Rzeczpospolita, 1987, p. 11–12. . (in Polish) There are also numerous historical tenements, some dating to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Among them are the Domański Tenement, Giants Tenement, Griffins Tenement, Kacperski Tenement, and Rakman Tenement.

The area also includes numerous office buildings, such as Banking and Finance Centre, Focus, International Business Center, Norway House, Ufficio Primo, and Zebra Tower. Two tallest skyscrapers in South Downtown, LIM Center and Chałubińskiego 8, are also predominantly dedicated to office spaces. Their heights in total and to the roof are, respectively, 170 m and 140 m, and 150 m and 140 m.Marta Leśniakowska: ''Architektura w Warszawie 1965–1989''. Warsaw: Arkada Pracownia Historii Sztuki, 2005, p. 26, 36. . (in Polish) Other skyscrapers in the area are Novotel Warszawa Centrum, with a total height of 111 m (364.1 ft), and Riviera, a student dormitory with the architectural height to the roof of 67 m (219.8 ft), and the total height of around 80 m (262.5 ft).

Additionally, there is also the market and food hall known as the Koszyki Hall.

Within its boundaries is also housed the Warsaw Stock Exchange, the largest stock exchange in Central and Eastern Europe.

Public spaces

In the southwestern portion of the neighbourhood, between People's Army Avenue, Waryńskiego Street, Batorego Street, and Independence Avenue, is located the Marshal Józef Piłsudski Park, which is part of the Mokotów Field park complex.

In the northwestern portion of the neighbourhood, in the area of the Warsaw Escarpment, are also located two other parks. Between Jerusalem Avenue and Książęca Street, is located the Na Książęcem Park, and to the south from it, between Książęca and Górnośląska Streets, is located a western portion of the Marshal Edward Rydz-Śmigły Park. Additionally, between Róż Avenue, Chopina Street, and Ujazdów Avenue, is placed the Swiss Valley Park.

There are also located six main urban squares, which are: Constitution Square, Crossroads Square, Saviour Square, Three Crosses Square, Union of Lublin Square, and Polytechnic Square.

Culture

In the South Downtown, is located the National Museum in Warsaw, the largest museum in the city, and one of the largest in the country. The neighbourhood also includes the Mausoleum of Struggle and Martyrdom,''Aleja Szucha. Mauzoleum Walki i Męczeństwa 1939–1944''. Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Sport i Turystyka, 1967. (in Polish) Museum of the Earth of the Polish Academy of Sciences, Museum of Life in the Polish People's Republic, and Warsaw University of Technology Museum. There also are two branches of the Warsaw Rising Museum. One of them is located in the building at 51 Jerusalem Avenue, which houses the Warsaw Fotoplastikon, a stereoscopic device based on the Kaiserpanorama system, operating there since 1905. The other, is the Security Office Prison Cells, located in the basement of the Ministry of Justice building, at 11 Ujazdów Avenue. The museum is dedicated to the prison operated there by the Ministry of Public Security from 1945 to 1954.

There are also several theatres, including the Contemporary Theatre, Roma Musical Theatre, Studio Buffo, and TR Warszawa. At 28 Marszałkowska Street is also located the historic Kino Luna cinema which operates since 1962.

There are also numerous monuments and memorials, such as the Memorial to the Polish Aviators Fallen Between 1939 and 1945, the Monument to the Millennium of the Polish Cavalry, and the Monument to the Polish Underground State and Home Army. There is also the famous art installation '' Greetings from Jerusalem Avenue'', placed at the Charles de Gaulle Roundabout.

Higher education and science

South Downtown includes the main campus of the Warsaw University of Technology. The Main Building is located at 1 Polytechnic Square, while most of the faculty buildings are placed in a section determined by Koszykowa, Noakowskiego, and Nowowiejska Streets, and Independence Avenue. Additionally, the Faculty of Architecture is located at 55 Koszykowa Street, and the Faculty of Chemistry at 3 Noakowskiego Street.

In the neighbourhood, at 188B Independence Avenue, is also the National Information Processing Institute of the Ministry of Science and Higher Education.

At 4 and 6 Chałubińskiego Street is also housed the Central Transport Library, a research and librarian institution of the Ministry of Infrastructure.

Government buildings

In the South Downtown, at 4, 6 and 8 Wiejska Street, is located the complex that houses the Seym and Senate of the Parliament of Poland.

In the neighbourhood are also present the headquarters of other numerous government agencies. This includes:
* the Agricultural Social Insurance Fund at 190 Independence Avenue;
* the Central Statistical Office at 208 Independence Avenue;
* the Financial Supervision Authority at 20 Piękna Street;
* the Ministry of Economic Development and Technology at 3 and 5 Three Crosses Square;
* the Ministry of Foreign Affairs at 23 Szucha Avenue;
* the Ministry of Funds and Regional Policy at 2 and 4 Wspólna Street;
* the Ministry of Infrastructure at 4 Chałubińskiego Street;
* the Ministry of Justice at 11 Ujazdów Avenue;
* the Ministry of National Education at 25 Szucha Avenue;
* the Ministry of Science and Higher Education at 1 and 3 Wspólna Street;
* the National Development Bank at 7 Jerusalem Avenue;
* the Patent Office of the Republic of Poland at 188 and 192 Independence Avenue;
* and the Warsaw Regional Court at 82 Marszałkowska Street.

South Downtown is also home to numerous embassies of foreign countries, including France, Canada, and the United States, among others.

Public transit

Within the neighbourhood is present the Politechnika station of the M1 line of the Warsaw Metro underground rapit transit system. It is located at the crossing of Waryńskiego Street and People's Army Avenue.
Wszystko zaczęło się na Wilanowskiej – 20 lat metra
'. In: ''iZTM'', no. 4 (86). April 2015. Warsaw: Zarząd Transportu Miejskiego. p. 9-10. (in Polish)

Religion

In the South Downtown are located three Roman Catholic churches. They are the Church of the Holiest Saviour, the St. Alexander Church, and the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul Church. Among other notable religious buildings there also are the Chapel of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, and the St. Barbara Chappel.

Additionally, at 31 Wilcza Street, is located the Chapel of the Divine Mercy of the Polish-Catholic Church of the Republic of Poland.

Location and subdivisions

The South Downtown is located within the south-eastern portion of the district of Downtown, in the city of Warsaw, Poland, and it is a City Information System area. To the north, its borders are determined by Jerusalem Avenue; to the east, by Ujazdów Avenue, Piękna Street, Górnośląska Street, Szucha Avenue, and the peaks of the Warsaw Escarpment; to the south, by Batorego Street, Boya-Żeleńskiego Street, and around the Union of Lublin Square; and to the west, by Independence Avenue, and Chałubińskiego Street.

It borders Mirów to the north-west, North Downtown to the north, Powiśle to the north-east, Solec to the east, Ujazdów to the south-east, Old Mokotów to the south, and Filtry to the west. Its southern and western boundaries form the border of the district of Downtown, bordering districts of Mokotów to the south, and Wola and Ochota to the west.

The Downtown district is also subdivided into nine administrative neighbourhoods, each governed by a neighbourhood council. The area of the South Downtown includes Koszyki, Krucza, Oleandrów, and Powiśle-Solec.

References

{{Neighbourhoods of Śródmieście, Warsaw

Neighbourhoods of Śródmieście, Warsaw
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