Paul César Helleu
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Paul César Helleu (17 December 1859 – 23 March 1927) was a French
oil paint Oil paint is a type of slow-drying paint that consists of particles of pigment suspended in a drying oil, commonly linseed oil. Oil paint also has practical advantages over other paints, mainly because it is waterproof. The earliest surviving ...
er,
pastel A pastel () is an art medium that consists of powdered pigment and a binder (material), binder. It can exist in a variety of forms, including a stick, a square, a pebble, and a pan of color, among other forms. The pigments used in pastels are ...
artist,
drypoint Drypoint is a printmaking technique of the intaglio (printmaking), intaglio family, in which an image is incised into a plate (or "matrix") with a hard-pointed "needle" of sharp metal or diamond point. In principle, the method is practically iden ...
etcher, and
designer A designer is a person who plans the form or structure of something before it is made, by preparing drawings or plans. In practice, anyone who creates tangible or intangible objects, products, processes, laws, games, graphics, services, or exper ...
, best known for his numerous portraits of beautiful society women of the ''
Belle Époque The Belle Époque () or La Belle Époque () was a period of French and European history that began after the end of the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 and continued until the outbreak of World War I in 1914. Occurring during the era of the Fr ...
''. He also conceived the ceiling
mural A mural is any piece of Graphic arts, graphic artwork that is painted or applied directly to a wall, ceiling or other permanent substrate. Mural techniques include fresco, mosaic, graffiti and marouflage. Word mural in art The word ''mural'' ...
of night sky
constellation A constellation is an area on the celestial sphere in which a group of visible stars forms Asterism (astronomy), a perceived pattern or outline, typically representing an animal, mythological subject, or inanimate object. The first constellati ...
s for
Grand Central Terminal Grand Central Terminal (GCT; also referred to as Grand Central Station or simply as Grand Central) is a commuter rail terminal station, terminal located at 42nd Street (Manhattan), 42nd Street and Park Avenue in Midtown Manhattan, New York Ci ...
in
New York City New York, often called New York City (NYC), is the most populous city in the United States, located at the southern tip of New York State on one of the world's largest natural harbors. The city comprises five boroughs, each coextensive w ...
. He was also the father of Jean Helleu and the grandfather of Jacques Helleu, both artistic directors for Parfums
Chanel Chanel ( , ) is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1910 by Coco Chanel in Paris. It is privately owned by French brothers, Alain and Gérard Wertheimer, through the holding company Chanel Limited, established in 2018 and headquarte ...
.


Biography

Paul César Helleu was born in
Vannes Vannes (; , , ) is a Communes of France, commune in the Departments of France, French department of Morbihan, Brittany (administrative region), Brittany, northwestern mainland France. It was founded over 2,000 years ago. History Celtic ...
, Brittany, France.Frédérique de Watrigant (Editor), 2014. Paul-César Helleu. Somogy Editions d'Art. Paris, France. 226 p. His father, who was a customs receiver, died when Helleu was in his teens. Despite opposition from his mother, he then went to Paris and studied at
Lycée Chaptal The Lycée Chaptal, formerly the Collège Chaptal, is a large secondary school in the 8th arrondissement of Paris, named after Jean-Antoine Chaptal, with about 2,000 pupils. It was taken over by the City of Paris in 1848 after the founder ran into ...
. In 1876, at age 16, he was admitted to the , beginning academic training in art with
Jean-Léon Gérôme Jean-Léon Gérôme (; 11 May 1824 – 10 January 1904) was a French painter and sculptor in the style now known as Academic painting, academicism. His paintings were so widely reproduced that he was "arguably the world's most famous living art ...
. Helleu attended the Second
Impressionist Impressionism was a 19th-century art movement characterized by visible brush strokes, open Composition (visual arts), composition, emphasis on accurate depiction of light in its changing qualities (often accentuating the effects of the passage ...
Exhibition in the same year, and made his first acquaintances with
John Singer Sargent John Singer Sargent (; January 12, 1856 – April 15, 1925) was an American expatriate artist, considered the "leading portrait painter of his generation" for his evocations of Edwardian era, Edwardian-era luxury. He created roughly 900 oil ...
,
James McNeill Whistler James Abbott McNeill Whistler (; July 10, 1834July 17, 1903) was an American painter in oils and watercolor, and printmaker, active during the American Gilded Age and based primarily in the United Kingdom. He eschewed sentimentality and moral a ...
, and
Claude Monet Oscar-Claude Monet (, ; ; 14 November 1840 – 5 December 1926) was a French painter and founder of Impressionism painting who is seen as a key precursor to modernism, especially in his attempts to paint nature as he perceived it. During his ...
. He was struck by their modern, bold
alla prima Wet-on-wet, or ''alla prima'' (Italian, meaning ''at first attempt''), direct painting or au premier coup, is a painting technique in which layers of wet paint are applied to previously administered layers of wet paint. Used mostly in oil pain ...
technique and outdoor scenes, so far removed from the studio. Following graduation, Helleu took a job with the firm
Théodore Deck Joseph-Théodore Deck (2 January 1823 – 15 May 1891) was a 19th-century French Pottery, potter, an important figure in late 19th-century art pottery. Born in Guebwiller, Haut-Rhin, he began learning the trade in his early 20s, moving to Paris at ...
Ceramique Française hand-painting fine decorative plates. At this same time, he met
Giovanni Boldini Giovanni Boldini (31 December 1842 – 11 January 1931) was an Italian genre and portrait painter who lived and worked in Paris for most of his career. According to a 1933 article in ''Time'' magazine, he was known as the "Master of Swish" beca ...
, a portrait painter with a facile, bravura style, who became a mentor and comrade, and strongly influenced his future artistic style. When he was 18 years old, Helleu established a close friendship with John Singer Sargent, four years his senior, that was to last his lifetime. Already becoming established, Sargent was receiving commissions for his work. Helleu had not sold anything, and was deeply discouraged almost to the point of abandoning his studies. When Sargent heard this, he went to Helleu and picked one of his paintings, praising his technique. Flattered that Sargent would praise his work, he offered to give it to him. Sargent replied, "I shall gladly accept this, Helleu, but not as a gift. I sell my own pictures, and I know what they cost me by the time they are out of my hand. I should never enjoy this pastel if I hadn't paid you a fair and honest price for it." With this he paid him a thousand-franc note. Helleu was commissioned in 1884 to paint a portrait of a young woman named Alice Guérin (1870–1933). They fell in love, and married on 28 July 1886. Throughout their lives together, she was his favourite model. Charming, refined and graceful, she helped introduce them to the aristocratic circles of Paris, where they became popular fixtures. On a trip to London with Jacques-Émile Blanche in 1885, Helleu met Whistler again and visited other prominent artists. His introduction to James Jacques Tissot, an accomplished society painter from France who made his career in England, proved a revelation. In Tissot, Helleu saw, for the first time, the possibilities of
drypoint Drypoint is a printmaking technique of the intaglio (printmaking), intaglio family, in which an image is incised into a plate (or "matrix") with a hard-pointed "needle" of sharp metal or diamond point. In principle, the method is practically iden ...
etching with a diamond point
stylus A stylus is a writing utensil or tool for scribing or marking into softer materials. Different styluses were used to write in cuneiform by pressing into wet clay, and to scribe or carve into a wax tablet. Very hard styluses are also used to En ...
directly on a copper plate. Helleu quickly became a virtuoso of the technique, drawing with the same dynamic and sophisticated freedom with his stylus as with his pastels. His prints were very well received, and they had the added advantage that a sitter could have several proofs printed to give to relations or friends. Over the course of his career, Helleu produced more than 2,000 drypoint prints. Soon, Helleu was displaying works to much acclaim at several galleries.
Degas Edgar Degas (, ; born Hilaire-Germain-Edgar De Gas, ; 19 July 183427 September 1917) was a French people, French Impressionism, Impressionist artist famous for his pastel drawings and oil paintings. Degas also produced bronze sculptures, Print ...
encouraged him to submit paintings to the Eighth Impressionist Exhibition in May and June 1886. The show was installed in a Paris apartment at 1 rue Laffitte, which ran concurrently with the official Salon that year to make a statement. Although 17 artists joined the famous exhibit that included the first Neo-Impressionistic works, Helleu, like
Monet Oscar-Claude Monet (, ; ; 14 November 1840 – 5 December 1926) was a French painter and founder of Impressionism painting who is seen as a key precursor to modernism, especially in his attempts to paint nature as he perceived it. During his ...
, refused to participate. In 1886, Helleu befriended
Robert de Montesquiou The name Robert is an ancient Germanic given name, from Proto-Germanic "fame" and "bright" (''Hrōþiberhtaz''). Compare Old Dutch ''Robrecht'' and Old High German ''Hrodebert'' (a compound of '' Hruod'' () "fame, glory, honour, praise, reno ...
, the poet and aesthete, who bought six of his drypoints to add to his large print collection. Montesquiou later wrote a book about Helleu that was published in 1913 with reproductions of 100 of his prints and drawings. This volume remains the definitive biography of Helleu. Montesquiou introduced Helleu to Parisian literary salons, where he met
Marcel Proust Valentin Louis Georges Eugène Marcel Proust ( ; ; 10 July 1871 – 18 November 1922) was a French novelist, literary critic, and essayist who wrote the novel (in French – translated in English as ''Remembrance of Things Past'' and more r ...
, who also became a friend. Proust created a literary picture of Helleu in his novel ''
Remembrance of Things Past ''In Search of Lost Time'' (), first translated into English as ''Remembrance of Things Past'', and sometimes referred to in French as ''La Recherche'' (''The Search''), is a novel in seven volumes by French author Marcel Proust. This early twen ...
'' as the painter Elstir. Later, Helleu engraved a well-known portrait of Proust on his deathbed. Montesquiou's cousin, Countess Greffulhe, enabled Helleu to expand his career as a portrait artist to elegant women in the highest ranks of Paris society, portraits that provide the basis for his modern reputation. His subjects included the Duchess of Marlborough, the Marchesa Casati,
Belle da Costa Greene Belle da Costa Greene (November 26, 1879 – May 10, 1950) was an American librarian who managed and developed the personal library of J. P. Morgan. After Morgan died in 1913, Greene continued as librarian for his son, Jack Morgan, and in 1 ...
,
Jeanne de Montagnac Clémence Elise Marie ''Jeanne'' "Pata" de Montagnac (16 April 1882 – 27 June 1966), later known as Madame Maximilian von Jaunez and Comtesse Charles de Polignac, was a French socialite, salonnière, arts patron, and singer. She co-hosted salon ...
,
Louise Chéruit Louise Chéruit ( Lemaire; 1866–1955), also known as Madame Chéruit and often erroneously called Madeleine Chéruit, was a French fashion designer. She was among the foremost couturiers of her generation, and one of the first women to control ...
, and
Helena Rubinstein Helena Rubinstein (born Chaja Rubinstein; December 25, 1872 – April 1, 1965) was a Polish and American businesswoman, art collector, and philanthropist. A cosmetics entrepreneur, she was the founder and eponym of Helena Rubinstein Incorporate ...
. Looking for new inspiration, Helleu began a series of paintings and color prints of
cathedral A cathedral is a church (building), church that contains the of a bishop, thus serving as the central church of a diocese, Annual conferences within Methodism, conference, or episcopate. Churches with the function of "cathedral" are usually s ...
s and
stained glass Stained glass refers to coloured glass as a material or art and architectural works created from it. Although it is traditionally made in flat panels and used as windows, the creations of modern stained glass artists also include three-dimensio ...
windows in 1893, followed by flower studies and
landscapes A landscape is the visible features of an area of land, its landforms, and how they integrate with natural or human-made features, often considered in terms of their aesthetic appeal.''New Oxford American Dictionary''. A landscape includes the ...
of parks in
Versailles The Palace of Versailles ( ; ) is a former royal residence commissioned by King Louis XIV located in Versailles, Yvelines, Versailles, about west of Paris, in the Yvelines, Yvelines Department of Île-de-France, Île-de-France region in Franc ...
. Helleu took up
sailing Sailing employs the wind—acting on sails, wingsails or kites—to propel a craft on the surface of the ''water'' (sailing ship, sailboat, raft, Windsurfing, windsurfer, or Kitesurfing, kitesurfer), on ''ice'' (iceboat) or on ''land'' (Land sa ...
, owning four yachts over his life. Ships, harbor views, life at port in
Deauville Deauville () is a communes of France, commune in the Calvados (department), Calvados department, Normandy (administrative region), Normandy, northwestern France. Major attractions include its port, harbour, Race track, race course, marinas, con ...
, and women in their fashionable seaside attire became subjects for many vivid and spirited works. In 1904, Helleu was awarded the and became one of the most celebrated artists of the
Edwardian era In the United Kingdom, the Edwardian era was a period in the early 20th century that spanned the reign of King Edward VII from 1901 to 1910. It is commonly extended to the start of the First World War in 1914, during the early reign of King Ge ...
in both Paris and London. He was an honorary member in important beaux-arts societies, including the International Society of Painters, Sculptors, and Engravers, headed by
Auguste Rodin François Auguste René Rodin (; ; 12 November 184017 November 1917) was a French sculptor generally considered the founder of modern sculpture. He was schooled traditionally and took a craftsman-like approach to his work. Rodin possessed a u ...
, and the . On his second trip to the United States in 1912, Helleu was awarded the commission to design the ceiling decoration in New York City's
Grand Central Terminal Grand Central Terminal (GCT; also referred to as Grand Central Station or simply as Grand Central) is a commuter rail terminal station, terminal located at 42nd Street (Manhattan), 42nd Street and Park Avenue in Midtown Manhattan, New York Ci ...
. He decided on a mural of a blue-green night sky covered by the starry signs of the
zodiac The zodiac is a belt-shaped region of the sky that extends approximately 8° north and south celestial latitude of the ecliptic – the apparent path of the Sun across the celestial sphere over the course of the year. Within this zodiac ...
that cross the
Milky Way The Milky Way or Milky Way Galaxy is the galaxy that includes the Solar System, with the name describing the #Appearance, galaxy's appearance from Earth: a hazy band of light seen in the night sky formed from stars in other arms of the galax ...
. Although the
astrological Astrology is a range of divinatory practices, recognized as pseudoscientific since the 18th century, that propose that information about human affairs and terrestrial events may be discerned by studying the apparent positions of celesti ...
design was widely admired, the ceiling was covered in the 1930s. It was completely restored in 1998. Helleu made his last trip to New York City in 1920 for an exhibition of his work, but he realized that the Belle Époque was over. He felt out of touch, and shortly after his return to France, he destroyed nearly all of his copper plates and retired to family life. While planning for a new exhibition with
Jean-Louis Forain Jean-Louis Forain (; 23 October 1852 – 11 July 1931) was a French Impressionist painter and printmaker, working in media including oils, watercolour, pastel, etching and lithograph. Compared to many of his Impressionist colleagues, he was m ...
, he died in 1927 at age 67 of
peritonitis Peritonitis is inflammation of the localized or generalized peritoneum, the lining of the inner wall of the abdomen and covering of the abdominal organs. Symptoms may include severe pain, swelling of the abdomen, fever, or weight loss. One pa ...
following surgery in Paris. Among many of his friends was
Coco Chanel Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel ( , ; 19 August 1883 – 10 January 1971) was a French fashion designer and Businessperson, businesswoman. The founder and namesake of the Chanel brand, she was credited in the post-World War I era with populari ...
, who chose beige as her signature colour upon on his advice—the colour of the sand on the beach of
Biarritz Biarritz ( , , , ; also spelled ; ) is a city on the Bay of Biscay, on the Atlantic coast in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department in the French Basque Country in southwestern France. It is located from the border with Spain. It is a luxu ...
in early morning. Both his son Jean Helleu and his grandson Jacques Helleu became artistic directors for Parfums Chanel. An online
Catalogue raisonné A (or critical catalogue) is an annotated listing of the works of an artist or group of artists and can contain all works or a selection of works categorised by different parameters such as medium or period. A ''catalogue raisonné'' is normal ...
providing an overview of his work is under development b
L'association Les Amis de Paul-César Helleu


Pastel portraits

Image:Helleu - Peggy Letellier.jpg, ''Peggy Letellier'',
pastel, 1905 Image:Helleu - Mademoiselle Vaughan.jpg, ''Mademoiselle Vaughan'',
pastel, 1905 File:Helleu - La Femme Aux Fluers.jpg, ''Lady with Flowers'', pastel on linen, 1910 Image:Helleu - Camara.jpg, ''Camara'',
pastel, 1905 Image:Helleu - Elegant Woman at the Rail.jpg, ''Elegant Woman at''
''the Rail'', pastel, 1905 Image:Helleu - On the Sofa.jpg, ''On the sofa'',
pastel, 1899


Prints

File:Helleu LXVII Le Chapeau Plissés.jpg, ''Le Chapeau Plissés'',
drypoint File:Helleu XXIX Madame Chéruit.jpg, '' Madame Chéruit'',
drypoint File:Helleu XLI Le Sphinx.jpg, ''Le Sphinx'',
drypoint File:Helleu XXXI Étude d'après la même.jpg, ''Étude d'après la même'',
drypoint File:Helleu XXIII Madame Letellier.jpg, ''Madame Letellier'',
drypoint File:HELLEU Paul-César. P.S. Femme assise.jpg, Elegant woman in fur coat. Drypoint, color print


Oil paintings

File:Helleu - Madame Helleu SurSonYachtLetoile.jpg, ''Madame Helleu on Her Yacht L'étoile'', oil on canvas, ca. 1898–1900 File:Helleu - Le Grand Pavois.jpg, ''Le Grand Pavois'',
oil on canvas, 1901 File:Helleu - Madame Helleu Seasted at her Secretaire.jpg, ''Madame Paul Helleu Seated at Her Secretaire'', oil on canvas, 1900 File:Helleu - Young Woman in White.jpg, ''Young woman in white'' (Mrs. Helleu),
oil on canvas, 1900


Miscellaneous subjects

Image:Unterlinden-Théodore Deck-Plat (3).jpg,
Théodore Deck Joseph-Théodore Deck (2 January 1823 – 15 May 1891) was a 19th-century French Pottery, potter, an important figure in late 19th-century art pottery. Born in Guebwiller, Haut-Rhin, he began learning the trade in his early 20s, moving to Paris at ...
plate decorated by Helleu, 1884, Colmar Museum Image:Helleu XXXIV Le Joueur de Flûte.jpg, ''Le Joueur de flûte'',
color print, 1895 Image:Helleu - Hydrangeas.jpg, ''Hydrangeas'',
pastel, 1911 Image:Helleu - The Yacht Etoile.jpg, ''The Yacht L'étoile'',
oil on canvas, 1903 Image:NYC Grand Central Terminal ceiling.jpg,
Grand Central Terminal Grand Central Terminal (GCT; also referred to as Grand Central Station or simply as Grand Central) is a commuter rail terminal station, terminal located at 42nd Street (Manhattan), 42nd Street and Park Avenue in Midtown Manhattan, New York Ci ...
ceiling in New York City


References


Sources


Montesquiou, Robert de (1913), ''Paul Helleu, Peintre et Graveur'', Paris: H. Floury.
digital facsimile edition, includes 100 full page illustrations in color, at Internet Archive (also at OpenLibrary.org) * Mourey, Gabriel, "Paul Helleu" i
''Parisian Illustrated Review''
volume 10, no. 1 (January 1901), pp. 11–17, translation of article first published in ''Revue Illustrée'', at Google Books. * Anguissola, Alberto Beretta (2006), ''Boldini, Helleu, Sem: protagonisti e miti della Belle Epoque'', Milan: Skira. * Wedmore, Frederick (1900?), ''Dry-points by Paul Helleu'', New York: Frederick Keppel & Co. * Green, Richard (1991), ''Helleu: Paul Cesar Helleu, 1859-1927 : An exhibition of oils, pastels and drypoints'', London: Richard Green Gallery. * ''Paul-César Helleu, 1859–1927: Glimpses of the Grace of Women'' (1974), New York: Knoedler. * ''Paul Helleu: Drypoints'' (1992), London: Lumley Cazalet Ltd.


External links


Les Amis de Paul-César Helleu
including online catalogue raisonné (in French)

- ''Daily Telegraph'' obituary
New York Social Diary, ''Society portraitist of the first order''
a biography of Paul Helleu

numerous reproductions of works {{DEFAULTSORT:Helleu, Paul Cesar 1859 births 1927 deaths Artists from Vannes 19th-century French painters French male painters 20th-century French painters 20th-century French male artists 19th-century French etchers 20th-century etchers 20th-century French printmakers Color engravers 19th-century French male artists Belle Époque French pastel artists