List Of First Ascents (sport Climbing)

In rock climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first documented redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, big wall (multi-pitch), or boulder route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent must therefore be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First free ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated absolute grade milestones since the mid-1980s, milestones for modern traditional climbing, free solo climbing, onsighted, and flashed ascents, are also listed.

A grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated the route to have a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, '' Realization'' was considered the world's first , however, the first repeat of the 1996 route ''Open Air'', which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was likely the first . ''Open Air'' has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken, whereas ''Realization'' has had many and is a "consensus" 9a+. Thus, where known, the 2nd, 3rd and 4th ranked candidates are listed, just in case.

Single-pitch routes

Redpointed by men

:

:* ''Silence'' (also ''Project Hard'') – Flatanger ( NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route.
Remains unrepeated (June 2022).

:*''DNA'' – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to '' Bibliographie'', ''Move'', ''Beyond ntegral', it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Remains unrepeated (June 2022).

:

:*''Change'' – Flatanger ( ) – October 4, 2012 – First-ever 9b+, by Adam Ondra; grade confirmed by Stefano Ghisolfi (2020). The third ascent was by Seb Bouin (2022), who felt that the use of a kneebar made the grade closer to (5.15b/c).
:* '' La Dura Dura'' – Oliana (ESP) – February 7, 2013 – Second-ever 9b+, by Adam Ondra; first-ever 9b+ repeat by Chris Sharma (2013).
:* ''Vasil Vasil'' – Moravský Kras ( CZE) – December 4, 2013 – Third-ever 9b+, by Adam Ondra. Remains unrepeated (June 2022).
:*''Perfecto Mundo'' – Margalef (ESP) – May 9, 2018 – Fourth-ever 9b+, by Alexander Megos; repeat by Stefano Ghisolfi (2018), and Jakob Schubert (2019).

:

:* ''Jumbo Love'' – Clark Mountain ( USA) – September 11, 2008 – First-ever , by Chris Sharma. Repeated by Ethan Pringle (2015), Jonathan Siegrist (2018), and Seb Bouin (2022).
:* ''Golpe de Estado'' – Siurana (ESP) – December 17, 2008 – Second-ever , by Chris Sharma. First-ever 9b repeat by Adam Ondra (2010) (was Ondra's first 9b).
:* ''Neanderthal'' – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 18, 2009 – Third-ever , by Chris Sharma. Repeated by Jakob Schubert (2018), and Adam Ondra (2019).

:

:* ''Open Air'' – Schleier Waterfall ( AUT) – 1996 – First ascent by Alexander Huber, who proposed ; it was only repeated one more time twelve years later in 2008 by Adam Ondra who felt it was , but the breaking of several holds cast uncertainty on whether Ondra experienced the same route that Huber had climbed.
:* '' Realization/Biographie'' – Céüse (FRA) – July 2001 – First ascent by Chris Sharma. First consensus in history.
:* '' La Rambla'' – Siurana (ESP) – March 2003 – First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué. Second/third-ever in history (depending on ''Open Air'').

:

:* '' Action Directe'' – Frankenjura ( ) – 1991 – First-ever consensus 9a in history, by Wolfgang Güllich, who graded it 8c+ but is now the "benchmark" 9a.
:* ''Om'' – Schleier Waterfall ( AUT) – 1992 – Second-ever consensus 9a in history, by Alexander Huber.
:* ''Bain de Sang'' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – 1993 – Third-ever consensus 9a in history, by Fred Nicole.
:* ''Hugh'' – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1993 – Fourth-ever consensus 9a in history, by Fred Rouhling.

:

:* ''Liquid Ambar'' – Pen Trwyn, ( WAL) – May 1990 – First ascent by Jerry Moffatt who graded , but now regraded to 8c+.
:* '' Hubble'' – Raven Tor, Peak District ( ENG) – June 1990 – Considered first-ever consensus in history, by Ben Moon; possible first 9a.
:* ''Just Do It'' – Smith Rocks, ( USA) – 1992 – Considered second-ever consensus in history (after ''Hubble''), by Jean-Baptiste Tribout.
:* ''Super Plafond'' – Volx, (FRA) – 1994 – Considered third-ever consensus in history, by Jean-Baptiste Tribout.

:

:* ' – Frankenjura ( DEU) – 1987 – First-ever consensus in history, by Wolfgang Güllich.
:* ''Anaïs et le canabis'' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – 1988 – Second-ever consensus in history, by Fred Nicole.
:* ''Agincourt'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1989 – Third-ever consensus in history, by Ben Moon.
:* ''Maginot Line (Plafond)'' – Volx (FRA) – 1989 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, by Ben Moon.

:

:* ''Punks in the Gym'' – Mount Arapiles ( AUS) – 1985 – First-ever consensus in history, by Wolfgang Güllich.
:* ''La Rage de Vivre'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1986 – Second-ever consensus in history, by .
:* ''To Bolt or Not to Be'' – Smith Rocks, ( USA) – 1986 – Third-ever consensus in history, by Jean-Baptiste Tribout. Important route in US climbing history.
:* ''Le Minimum'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1986 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, by .

:

:* ''Kanal im Rücken'' – Frankenjura ( DEU) – 1984 – First-ever consensus in history, by Wolfgang Güllich.
:* ''Les Mans Sales'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1985 – Second-ever consensus in history, by .
:* ''Le fluide enchanté'' – Mouriès (FRA) – 1985 – Third-ever consensus in history, by .
:* ''La Rose et le Vampire'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1985 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, and iconic route, by .

:*''The Face'' – Altmühltal ( DEU) – 1983 – First-ever consensus in history, by Jerry Moffatt.
:* ''Le Bidule'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1984 – Second-ever consensus in history, by .

Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre ''The Face'' are traditional climbing routes; they are presented for completeness.

:*''Grand Illusion'' – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA ( USA) – 1979 – First-ever consensus in history, by .
:*''13 Boulevard du Vol'' – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus in history, by Arnould t'Kint.
:*''Grand Illusion'' – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA ( USA) – 1982 – Third-ever consensus in history, by Wolfgang Gullich.
:*''La Crépinette'' – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1983 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, by Fabrice Guillot (and first 8a in France).

:*''The Phoenix'' – Yosemite, CA ( USA) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus in history, by Ray Jardine. Jardine used his new camming device.
:*''Le Toit'' – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus in history, by Patrick Edlinger.
:*''Le Haine'' – La Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus in history, by Patrick Berhault.
:*''Chimpanzodrome'' – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.

:*''Psycho Roof'' – Eldorado, CO ( USA) – 1975 – Only one ascent, due to large broken flake. Possibly harder than 7c in 1975. Estimated as first in history, by Steve Wunsch.
:*''Nymphodalle'' – Les Calanques (FRA) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus in history, by Patrick Edlinger.
:*''Equinox'' – Joshua Tree ( USA) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus climbs in history, by .
:*''Chasin' the trane'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus climbs in history, by John Bachar.

:*''Macabre Roof'' – Ogden, Utah, ( USA) – 1967 – First in history (on contemporary regrading, still very few ascents), flashed by Greg Lowe
:*''Paisano Overhang'' – Suicide Rock, ( USA) – 1974 – One of the first-ever consensus climbs, by John Long.
:*''Super Crack'' – Shawangunks, ( USA) – 1974 – Long considered the first-ever consensus by Steve Wunsch.
:*''Super Crack'' – Shawangunks, ( USA) – 1977 – First-ever repeat of a consensus , by Ron Kauk.

:*''English Hanging Gardens'' – Big Rock, Lake Perris, California, ( USA) – 1970 – Regraded to be the first in history, by John Gosling
:*''Kansas City'' – Shawangunks, NY ( USA) – 1973 – One of the first-ever climbs in history, by John Bragg.
:*''Fish Crack'' – Yosemite ( USA) – 1975 – One of the first-ever climbs in history, by Henry Barber.
:*''Hot Line'' – Yosemite ( USA) – 1975 – One of the first-ever climbs in history, by Ron Kauk, and John Bachar (both led).

:*''Thimble'' – Needles, SD, ( USA) – 1961 – Free soloed. Short but dangerous, due to guardrail below in 1961. Considered first in history, by John Gill.
:*''The Throne'' – Shawangunks, NY ( USA) – 1973 – One of the first-ever climbs in history, by John Stannard.
:*''Fenrir'' – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – 1977 – Early consensus in France, by Patrick Berhault (first in France).
:*''Caca Boudin'' – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – 1977 – Early consensus in history, by Patrick Berhault.
:*'' Separate Reality'' – Yosemite ( USA) – 1978 – Early consensus in history, by Ron Kauk.

:*''Goliath'' – Burbage South Edge, ( ENG) – 1958 – Possible first-ever at E4 6a (6c+ to 7a), by Don Whillans.
:*''Foops'' – Shawangunks, NY ( USA) – 1967 October – Sometimes considered a first-ever consensus , by John Stannard (now closer to 6c+).
:*''Messner Slab'' – Pilastro di Mezzo, Sas dla Crusc/ Heiligkreuzkofel, (ITA) – 1968 – Regrading implies an early , led on sight by Reinhold Messner.
:*''Schwager Nordwand'' – Schrammsteine, Saxon Switzerland, ( DEU) – 1970 – Considered a notable early IXb, by Bernd Arnold.

Redpointed by women

:

:* ''La Planta de Shiva'' – Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – October 22, 2017 – First-ever female ascent of a 9b route, by Angela Eiter.
:* ''Eagle–4'' – Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (FRA) – November 7, 2020 – Second-ever female ascent of a 9b, by Julia Chanourdie.
:* ''Madame Ching'' – Tyrol ( AUT) – December 16, 2020 – Third-ever female ascent, and first-ever female FFA of a 9b, by Angela Eiter; remains unrepeated.
:* ''Erebor'' – Eremo di San Paolo, Arco (ITA) – October 2, 2021 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9b (once a potential first 9b+), by Laura Rogora.

:

:* '' La Rambla'' – Siurana (ESP) – February 26, 2017 – First-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes.
:* ''Sweet neuf'' – Pierrot Beach (FRA) – September 11, 2017 – Second-ever female ascent, and first-ever female FFA of a 9a+, by Anak Verhoeven. Confirmed by (2019).
:* '' Realization/Biographie'' – Céüse (FRA) – September 24, 2017 – Third-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes.
:* ''Papichulo'' – Oliana (ESP) – March 22, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes.

:

:* ''Bimbaluna'' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – 1 May 2005 – World's first-ever female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Open your Mind direct'' – Santa Linya (ESP) 17 March 2015 – Second female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route (once a potential first 9a+), by Ashima Shiraishi.

:

:*''Bain de Sang'' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – October 29, 2002 – First-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Josune Bereziartu. FFA by Fred Nicole, 1993.
:* ''Logical Progression'' – Jo Yama ( JPN) – November, 2004 – Second-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Les 3 P'' – La grotte du Galetas, Verdon Gorge (FRA) – August, 2011 – Third-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by ; initially disputed, later verified.
:* ''PuntX'' – Gorges du Loup, (FRA) – November, 2013 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Muriel Sarkany.

:

:* ''Honky Tonk Mix'' – Onate (ESP) – June, 2000 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Noia'' – Andonno (ITA) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Na Nai'' – Baltzola (ESP) – June 18, 2003 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Powerade'' – Vadiello (ESP) – May 21, 2007 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.

:
:* ''Honky Tonky'' – Onate (ESP) – April, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''White Zombie'' – Baltzola (ESP) – May, 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Raz'' – Baltzola (ESP) – May, 1999 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Welcome to Tijuana'' – Rodellar (ESP) – May, 2000 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.

:

:* ''Masse Critique'' – Cimai (FRA) – 1990 – First-ever female ascent of an 8b+ route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''No Sika, No Crime'' – Lehn ( CHF) – 1993 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Suzi Good.
:* ''Silence Vertical'' – Troubat (FRA) – 1993 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Robyn Erbesfield.
:* ''Attention on vous regarde'' – Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) – 1993 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Robyn Erbesfield.

:

:* ''Sortilèges'' – Le Cimai (FRA) – 1988 – First-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Isabelle Patissier.
:* ''Sortilèges'' – Le Cimai (FRA) – 1989 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Sortilèges'' – Le Cimai (FRA) – 1989 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by .

:

:* ''Choucas'' – Buoux (FRA) – March 1988 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a+ route, by Catherine Destivelle.

:

:* ''Come Back'' – Val San Nicolò (ITA) – 1986 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by .
:* ''Rêve de Papillon'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1987 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by .
:* ''Rêve de Papillon'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1987 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Rêve de Papillon'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1988 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Catherine Destivelle.

:

:* ''Fleur de Rocaille'' – Mouriès, (FRA) – 1985 – First-ever female ascent of an 7c+/8a route, by Catherine Destivelle; initially considered the first 8a, but grade was softened.

Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first female ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre ''Fleur de Rocaille'', are traditional climbing routes; they are presented for completeness.

:
:* ''Vandals'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( USA) – 1984 – First-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Artificial Intelligence'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( USA) – 1985 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Chimpanzodrome'' – Le Saussois (FRA) – 1985 – Third-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by .

:
:* ''Ophir Broke'' – Telluride ( USA) – 1979 – First-ever female ascent of a 7c route (subsequently upgraded), by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Organic Iron'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( USA) – 1984 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7c route (was considered first), by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Katapult'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1985 – Third-ever female ascent of a 7c route, by Isabelle Patissier.

:
:* ''Yellow Crack Variation'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( USA) – 1984 – First-ever female ascent of a 7b+ route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Pichenibule (en libre)'' – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – 1985 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7b+ route, by Catherine Destivelle.

:
:* ''Shawangunk Ridge'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( USA) – 1977 – First-ever female ascent of a 7b route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Kansas City'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( USA) – 1977 – Early female ascent of a 7b route, by Barbara Devine.

Onsighted / Flashed by men

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) are less relevant, however, it is recorded where noted.

:

:* ''Super Crackinette'' – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra.

:

:* ''Southern Smoke Direct'' – Siurana (ESP) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra.
:* ''Estado Critico'' – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos.
:* ''Cabane au Canada'' – Rawyl ( SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.
:* ''Il Domani'' – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.

:

:*''Bizi Euskaraz'' – Etxauri (ESP) – December 11, 2007 – First-ever 8c+ onsight, by Patxi Usobiaga.
:* ''Kidetasunaren Balio Erantsia'' – Etxauri (ESP) – March 6, 2011 – Second-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra.
:*''Bizi Euskaraz'' – Etxauri (ESP) – March 7, 2007 – Third-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra.
:* ''Powerade'' – Vadiello (La Caverna) (ESP) – March 9, 2011 – Fourth-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra.

:

:* ''White Zombie'' – Baltzola (ESP) – October 6, 2004 – First-ever 8c onsight, by Yuji Hirayama.
:* ''Pata Negra'' – Rodellar (ESP) – August 10, 2005 – Second-ever 8c onsight, by Tomáš Mrázek.
:* ''Gaua'' – Lezaia (ESP) – October 10, 2005 – Third-ever 8c onsight, by Patxi Usobiaga.
:* ''La Teoria Dell'8a'' – Grotta dell'Aeronauta (ITA) – November 23, 2005 – Fourth-ever 8c onsight, by Tomáš Mrázek.

:

:*''Massey Fergusson'' – Calanques (FRA) – 1995 – First-ever 8b+ onsight, by .
:*''Maldita María'' – Cuenca (ESP) – 1996 – Second-ever 8b+ onsight, by .

:

:*''Liaisons Dangereuses'' – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by
:*''Public Enemy'' – Cuenca, (ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b.

:

:(unknown)

:

:*''Samizdat'' – Cimai (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a on-sight, by .

:

:*''Pol Pot'' – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – 1984 – First-ever 7c+ onsight, by Jerry Moffatt.
:*''The Phoenix'' – Yosemite (FRA) – 1984 – Second-ever 7c+ onsight, by Jerry Moffatt.
:*''Yesterday Direct'' – Mount Arapiles ( AUS) – 1985 – Third-ever 7c+ (Australia 28) onsight, by Wolfgang Gullich.

:

:*''Equinox'' – Joshua Tree ( USA) – 1982 – First-ever 7c flash (not onsight), by Jerry Moffatt (originally considered 7b+).
:*''La Polka des Ringards'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1982 – First-ever 7c onsight, by Patrick Edlinger.
:*''Heisse Finger'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1983 – Second-ever 7c onsight, by Jerry Moffatt.
:*''Chasin' the Trane'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1983 – Third-ever 7c onsight, by Jerry Moffatt.

:
:*''Super Crack'' – Shawangunks ( USA) – 1982 – First-ever 7b+ flash (not onsight), by Jerry Moffatt.
:*''Captain crochet'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1982 – First-ever 7b+ onsight, by Patrick Edlinger.

Onsighted / Flashed by women

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) are less relevant, however, it is recorded where noted.

:

:* ''La Fabelita -–'' Santa Linya (ESP) – December 31, 2015 – First-ever female 8c flash, by Janja Garnbret (her flash of ''Rollito Sharma'' two days earlier was downgraded to 8b+).
:*''Fish eye'' – Oliana (ESP) – November 1, 2021 – First-ever female 8c onsight, by Janja Garnbret
:*''American Hustle'' – Oliana (ESP) – November 4, 2021 – Second-ever female 8c onsight, by Janja Garnbret

:

:*''Hidrofobia'' – Montsant (ESP) – April, 2006 – First-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu (later considered possible 8b).
:*''Humildes pa casa'' – Oliana (ESP) – April, 2010 – Second-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Maja Vidmar (later considered possible 8b+/c).
:*''Les Rois du Pétrole'' – Pic Saint-Loup (FRA) – July, 2010 – Third-ever female 8b+ onsight, by (once considered the first 8c, but the route was downgraded).
:*''Omaha Beach'' – Red River Gorge ( USA) – March, 2011 – Fourth-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Sasha Digiulian.

:

:*''Steroid Performance'' – Horai ( JPN) – December, 2004 – First-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.
:*''Il Veccho et il Mare'' – Millennium Cave, Sardinia (ITA) – July, 2005 – Second-ever female 8b onsight, by .
:*''La Réserve'' – Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux, (FRA) – October, 2005 – Third-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.
:*''Fuente de Energia'' – La Caverna, Vadiello (ESP) – November, 2005 – Fourth-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.

:

:*''Bon Vintage'' – Terradets (ESP) – April, 2000 – First-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.
:*''Naska'' – Apellániz (ESP) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.
:*''Déversé Satanique'' – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – October, 2001 – Third-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.

:

:*''Overdose'' – Lourmarin (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever female 8a/+ onsight, by Robyn Erbesfield.

:*''Simon'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1992 – First-ever female 8a onsight, by Lynn Hill.
:*''Rampaneu'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1992 – Second-ever female 8a onsight, by Robyn Erbesfield.

Free-solo by men

Notable free-solos above range; does not include "highball" boulder ascents as the climbers here did not use padding or spotters.

:
:* ''Panem et Circenses'' – Length: – Muro di Pizarra , Arco ( IT) – December 2019 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52.

:
:* ''Kommunist'' – Length: – Tyrol ( AUT) – 2004 – The first-ever 8b+ free solo, by Alexander Huber.
:* ''Darwin Dixit'' – Length: – Margalef (ESP) – March 2008 – Originally graded 8c but route downgraded to 8b+, by Dave MacLeod.

:

:* ''Compilation'' – Omblèze (FRA) – 1993– First-ever 8b free solo, by Alain Robert.
:* ''Der Opportunist'' – Schleierfall ( AUT) – 2003 – Second-ever 8b free solo, by Alexander Huber.

:

:* ''Rêve de gosse'' – La Roche-des-Arnauds (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a+ free solo, by Jean-Christophe Lafaille.

:

:* ''Revelations'' – Raven Tor, Peak District ( ENG) – 1985 – First-ever 8a free solo, by .

:* ''Weed Killer'' – Raven Tor, Peak District ( ENG) – 1986 – First-ever 7c free solo, by Wolfgang Gullich.

:* ''Baby Apes'' – Joshua Tree National Park ( USA) – 1982 – Probably the first-ever 7b free solo, by John Bachar.

Boulder problems

Solved by men

:

:*''Burden of Dreams'' – Lappnor, ( ) – October 2016 – First ascent by Nalle Hukkataival after years of attempts; is unrepeated (August 2022).
:* ''Return of the Sleepwalker'' – Red Rock Canyon, ( USA) – April 2021 – First ascent by Daniel Woods; a sit start into Jimmy Webb's ''Sleepwalker'' ; is unrepeated (August 2022).
:* ''Alphane'' – Chironico, ( SUI) – April 6, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou, and first repeat by Aidan Roberts (October 2022); Roberts was silent on the grade having never climbed at V17, and having previously failed on ''Burden of Dreams''. William Bosi made a second repeat in November 2022 and felt is was easier than ''Honey Badger'' .
:* ''Megatron –'' Eldorado Canyon State Park, ( USA) – 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou. This boulder climbs a seven move sit start into ''Tron'', a (first ascent Daniel Woods).

:

:*''Gioia'' – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever , by Christian Core. First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with ''Terranova'' (see below). Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade. In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade. In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad).

:*''Livin' Large'' – Rocklands, ( ZAF) – August 2009 – First ascent by Nalle Hukkataival who graded it , and first repeat in 2015 Jimmy Webb who confirmed an 8C; however, a second repeat and upgrade by Shawn Raboutou (and a failure by Adam Ondra), suggests it is one of the first-ever boulders.

:* ''Hypnotized Minds'' – Rocky Mountain, ( USA) – October 2010 – Considered one of the first-ever boulders, by Daniel Woods who initially proposed V15; first repeat by (2016), and second by Dave Graham (2019) who confirmed V16.

:* ''Terranova'' – Holstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) – November 2011 – Considered an early , by Adam Ondra; remains unrepeated (June 2022)

:

:*''Monkey Wedding'' – Rocklands, ( ZAF) – August 2002 – First-ever consensus in history, by Fred Nicole.
:*''Black Eagle SDS'' – Rocklands, ( ZAF) – August 2002 – Second-ever consensus in history, by Fred Nicole.
:*''Viva l'Evolution'' – Tyrol, ( AUS) – September 2002 – Third-ever consensus in history, by .
:*''Walk Away SDS'' – Lake District, ( ENG) – October 2002 – Considered the fourth-ever in history, by John Gakins; remains unrepeated (June 2022)

:

:* ''Radja'' – Branson, Valais, ( SUI) – January 1996 – First-ever consensus in history, by Fred Nicole.
:* ''Nanuk'' – Königsee, ( GER) – 1997 – Only repeated in 2012, and now considered the second-ever in history after ''Radja'', by Klem Loskot.
:* ''Coeur de Lion'' – Hueco Tanks, ( USA) – 1998 – Third-ever consensus in history, by Fred Nicole.
:* ''Dreamtime'' – Cresciano ( SUI) – October 28, 2000 – First ascent by Fred Nicole who proposed it as the world's first . The route became as iconic and important in boulder climbing history as '' Midnight Lightning'' due to its beauty and challenge. Subsequent repeats by others including Dave Graham, Adam Ondra, and Chris Sharma softened the consensus to , but the breaking of a key hold in 2009 restored the consensus to .

:
:* ''La Danse des Balrogs'' – Branson, Valais, ( SUI) – 1992 – First-ever consensus in history, by Fred Nicole.
:* ''Enigma'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1992 – Considered the second-ever , by Philippe le Denmatt.
:* ''Fatman'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1993 – Considered important early , by .
:* ''The Dominator'' – Yosemite, ( USA) – 1993 – Considered important early , by Jerry Moffatt.

:

:* ''Trice'' – Boulder, Colorado, ( USA) – 1975 – Ungraded and unrepeated for 32 years, but is now considered the world's first , by Jim Holloway.
:* ''Slapshot'' – Flatirons, ( USA) – 1977 – Ungraded and unrepeated for years, but considered one of the world's first , by Jim Holloway, and possibly .
:* ''L’à Plat du Gain'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by Alain Ghersen.
:* ''Superman'' – Cressbrook, ( ENG) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by Jerry Moffatt; later regraded at possible 8B.

:
:* ''C’était Demain'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1984 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by .
:* ''Careless Torque'' – Stanage Edge, ( ENG) – 1987 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by Ron Fawcett; later regraded at 8A.

:
:* ''The Groove'' – Pueblo, Colorado, ( USA) – 1978 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by John Gill.

:
:* ''Red Cross Overhang'', or ''Gill Problem'' – Teton Range, ( USA) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by John Gill.
:* ''Speed of Light Dyno'' – Black Mountains, ( USA) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a , by John Long.
:* ''L'Abbé Résina'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a , by Pierre Richard.

:

:* ''Le Carnage'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever ascent of a , by Jérôme Jean-Charles.
:* '' Midnight Lightning'' – Camp 4, Yosemite ( USA) – 1978 – Second-ever ascent of a , by Ron Kauk; considered one of the world's most famous problems.

:
:* ''Gill Right Problem'' – Teton Range, ( USA) – 1958 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by John Gill.

:
:* ''Le Joker'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1953 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by .

:
:* ''Marie-Rose'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1946 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by .

Solved by women

:
:* ''E la nave va'' – Lindental, ( SUI) – 2003 – First-ever female ascent of an boulder traverse, by Josune Bereziartu.

:*''Horizon'' – Mount Hiei, ( JPN) – March 22, 2016 – First-ever female ascent of an , by Ashima Shiraishi.
:* ''Sleepy Rave'' – Hollow Mountain Cave, ( AUS) – 2 August 2016 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by Ashima Shiraishi.
:* ''Kryptos'' – Morchelstock, Balsthal, ( SUI) – June, 2018 – Third-ever female ascent of an , by Kaddi Lehmann.
:* ''Byaku-dou'' – Mount Hurai, ( JPN) – May 5, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an , by Mishka Ishi.

:
:* ''La traversia De Balzola'' – Balzola, (ESP) – 2002 – First-ever female ascent of an boulder traverse, by Josune Bereziartu.

:* ''Catharsis'' – Shiobara, ( JPN) – 20 October 2012 – First-ever female ascent of an , by Tomoko Ogawa. FFA by Dai Koyamada.
:* ''Golden Shadow'' – Rocklands, ( RSA) – 11 July 2014 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by Ashima Shiraishi.
:* ''New Base Line'' – Magic Wood, ( SUI) – 12 July 2014 – Third-ever female ascent of an , by Shauna Coxsey.

:

:* ''The Automator'' – RMNP, ( USA) – 17 August 2010 – First-ever female ascent of an , by Angie Payne.
:* ''The Riverbed'' – Magic Wood, ( SUI) – 16 September 2010 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by Anna Stöhr.
:* ''Crow of Aragorn'' – Hueco Tanks, ( USA) – 11 July 2014 – Third-ever female ascent of an , by Ashima Shiraishi, and the youngest person ever at age 10.

:
:* ''Liaison Futile'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 13 April 1999 – First-ever female ascent of an , by .
:* ''Atomic Playboy'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 2 March 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by .
:* ''Solaris'' – Baltzoia, (SPA) – 15 April 2003 – Third-ever female to ascend a , by Josune Bereziartu.

:
:* ''Duel'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – October, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an , by .
:* ''Berezi'' – Larraona, (SPA) – 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus , by Josune Bereziartu.

:
:* ''Sale gosse assis'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an , by .
:* ''Plain High Drifter'' – The Buttermilks, ( USA) – March, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus , by Lisa Rands.

:
:* ''Halloween'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1997/96 – First-ever female ascent of a , by .
:* ''Le Grande Bleu'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of a , by .

:
:* ''Miss World'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1996 – First-ever female ascent of a , by .
:* ''Mayonnaise de Passion'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1996 – Second-ever female ascent of a , by .

:
:* ''Le Carnage'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1989 – First-ever female ascent of a , by .
:* ''Trois graines d'éternité'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1995 – Second-ever female ascent of a , by Dany Riche.
:* '' Midnight Lightning'' – Camp 4, Yosemite, ( USA) – 1998 – Notable female ascent of a famous , by Lynn Hill.

Multi-pitch routes

Given the smaller number of entries, the sections combine overall and female ascents:

Redpointed

:

:* ''The Dawn Wall'' (3,000-feet, 32-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 14 January 14 2015 – First-ever big wall redpoint at , by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson; 19 days (7 years of developing the line). Repeated on November 21, 2016, by Adam Ondra in 8 days; Ondra lead every pitch.

:

:* ''Bellavista'' (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA)– 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at , by Alexander Huber; repeating the route in 2007 (to create ''Pan Aroma'', also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+.

:

:* ''Neverending Story'' (450-metres, 11-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon, Switzerland – 1991 – First-ever big wall free climb at , by .
:* '' The Nose'' (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second-ever big wall free climb at , by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); considered as one of the most important ascents in rock climbing history, and a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill repeated it in under 24 hours; took over a decade for the first clean repeat.
:* ''Des Kaisers Neue Kleider,'' (250-metres, 9-pitches) – Fleischbank (AUT) – 1994 – Big wall free climb at , by Stefan Glowacz; one of the "Alpine Trilogy".
:* ''The End of Silence'' (350-metres, 11-pitches) – Berchtesgaden (GER) – 1994 – Big wall free climb at , by Thomas Huber, one of the "Alpine Trilogy".
:* ' (185-metres, 6-pitches) – Rätikon (SWZ) – 1994 – Big wall free climb at , by , one of the "Alpine Trilogy".

:

:* ''New Age'' (150-metres, 5-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon, Switzerland – 1989 – First-ever big wall free climb at , by .

:

:* ''Salathé Wall'' (870-metres, 35-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1988 – First-ever big wall free climb at , by Todd Skinner and Paul Piana.

:

:* ''Via Acacia'' (330-metres, 9-pitches) – 5th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon, Switzerland – 1988 – First-ever big wall free climb at , by .

:

:* ''Amarcord'' (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon, Switzerland – 1984 – First-ever big wall free climb at , by .

Free-soloed

:
:* ''Freerider'' (915-meters, 30-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite ( USA) – 3 June 2017 – First-ever big wall free solo at , by Alex Honnold; took 3 hours, 56 minutes.

:
:* ''The Fish Route'' (850-meters, 37-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites (Italy) – April 2007 – First-ever big wall free solo at , by Hansjorg Auer; took 2 hours, 55 minutes.
:* ''The Moonlight Buttress'' (364-meters, 10-pitches) – Zion National Park (USA) – 1 April 2008 – Likely the second-ever big wall free solo at , by Alex Honnold; took 83 minutes.

:
:* ''Romantic Warrior'' (305-meters, 9-pitches) – Needles, California (USA) – 2005 – First-ever big wall free solo at , by Michael Reardon; won ''National Geographic'' award.

:
:* ''Brandler-Hasse Direttissima'' (580-meters, 17-pitches) – Cima Grande, Dolomites (Italy) – 2002 – First-ever big wall free solo at , by Alexander Huber.

Deep-water solo routes

(unconfirmed):
:* ''Alasha'' – Mallorca (ESP) – September 12, 2016. First ascent by Chris Sharma, who estimated its grade based on the effort it took to climb it without rope: "If it had bolts on it, it probably wouldn't be a 9b (5.15b). But when you're 60 feet up with no bolts, it takes the same amount of effort.”

:
:* '' Es Pontàs'' – Mallorca (ESP) – September 26, 2007. First ascent by Chris Sharma. Repeated by Jernej Kruder in November 2016. It features a dyno that took Sharma over 50 attempts to stick.

See also

*History of rock climbing
*List of first ascents

Notes

References

Further reading

* American online climbing website, ''Planet Mountain'', on notable climbs, redpoints, onsight, free sole and male-female (1918–2012):
* Czech climbing magazine, ''eMontana'', on men's redpointing milestones from 6a to 9c:

External links

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