Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing refers to any form of
Chinese auspicious ornaments, which are used to decorate various forms of Chinese textile and clothing (including and ), fashion accessories, and footwear in
China since the ancient times.
Chinese auspicious ornaments form part of
Chinese culture
Chinese culture () is one of the world's oldest cultures, originating thousands of years ago. The culture prevails across a large geographical region in East Asia and is extremely diverse and varying, with customs and traditions varying grea ...
and hold symbolic meanings.
In ancient China, auspicious ornaments were often either embroidered or woven into textile and clothing.
They are also used on religious and ritual clothing (e.g. which is
Taoist
Taoism (, ) or Daoism () refers to either a school of philosophical thought (道家; ''daojia'') or to a religion (道教; ''daojiao''), both of which share ideas and concepts of Chinese origin and emphasize living in harmony with the '' Tao ...
clothing
and Chinese Buddhist clothing) and in ,
Chinese opera costumes.
Auspicious symbols and motifs continue to be used in present day China in industries, such as home textiles and clothing; they are also used in modern design packaging and interior design.
Some of these Chinese auspicious ornaments were also
culturally appropriated by European countries during the era of
Chinoiserie
(, ; loanword from French '' chinoiserie'', from '' chinois'', "Chinese"; ) is the European interpretation and imitation of Chinese and other East Asian artistic traditions, especially in the decorative arts, garden design, architecture, lite ...
, where they became decorative patterns on fashionable
chinoiserie fashion and textiles.
Cultural significance
Chinese auspicious patterns and motifs have profound meanings and are rich in forms; these reflect the desires and yearning of the ancient Chinese to pursue a better life.
Chinese auspicious ornaments are typically decorations of Chinese cultural origins which are rooted in
Confucianism
Confucianism, also known as Ruism or Ru classicism, is a system of thought and behavior originating in ancient China. Variously described as tradition, a philosophy, a religion, a humanistic or rationalistic religion, a way of governing, or a ...
,
Taoism
Taoism (, ) or Daoism () refers to either a school of philosophical thought (道家; ''daojia'') or to a religion (道教; ''daojiao''), both of which share ideas and concepts of Chinese origin and emphasize living in harmony with the '' Ta ...
,
Chinese Buddhism
Chinese Buddhism or Han Buddhism ( zh, s=汉传佛教, t=漢傳佛教, p=Hànchuán Fójiào) is a Chinese form of Mahayana Buddhism which has shaped Chinese culture in a wide variety of areas including art, politics, literature, philosophy, ...
beliefs, in
Chinese mythology and cosmology and concepts, as well from Buddhist visual arts and from the natural
flora
Flora is all the plant life present in a particular region or time, generally the naturally occurring (indigenous (ecology), indigenous) native plant, native plants. Sometimes bacteria and fungi are also referred to as flora, as in the terms '' ...
and
fauna
Fauna is all of the animal life present in a particular region or time. The corresponding term for plants is ''flora'', and for fungi, it is ''funga''. Flora, fauna, funga and other forms of life are collectively referred to as ''Biota (ecology ...
in China.
Throughout Chinese history, the use of Chinese embroideries on textile, clothing, and footwear also reflected and expressed the subtle changes in aesthetic concepts, cultural traditions, ethics and morals of the Chinese people throughout the millennia.
Usage
Common items
Chinese auspicious symbols and patterns were used on wedding bedding textiles.
They were also used to decorate Chinese
fragrant sachet (e.g.
Qingyang sachet) and Chinese purses ().
Garments and clothing accessories
Clothing and colour in China also played an important role in representing its wearer's identity, rank, and culture.
Clothing which were decorated with
Chinese dragon
The Chinese dragon, also known as ''loong'', ''long'' or ''lung'', is a legendary creature in Chinese mythology, Chinese folklore, and Chinese culture at large. Chinese dragons have many animal-like forms such as turtles and fish, but are most ...
s and cosmological symbols,
rank badges were typically symbol of status of the ruling class in ancient China.
Auspicious set of ornaments
Twelve ornaments
The
Twelve ornaments are one of the oldest motifs in China.
They originated in the
Western Zhou dynasty
The Western Zhou ( zh, c=, p=Xīzhōu; c. 1045 BC – 771 BC) was a royal dynasty of China and the first half of the Zhou dynasty. It began when King Wu of Zhou overthrew the Shang dynasty at the Battle of Muye and ended when the Quanrong nom ...
and was a group of highly auspicious ancient Chinese symbols and designs, signifying authority and power.
They were typically embroidered on imperial clothing,
and were used as decoration on textile fabrics.
Their use on clothing have been recorded in the
Shangshu
The ''Book of Documents'' (''Shūjīng'', earlier ''Shu King'') or ''Classic of History'', also known as the ''Shangshu'' (“Venerated Documents”), is one of the Five Classics of ancient Chinese literature. It is a collection of rhetorica ...
Yiji; since then, they have continuously been used.
The system of clothing patterns was however established in the
Han dynasty
The Han dynasty (, ; ) was an imperial dynasty of China (202 BC – 9 AD, 25–220 AD), established by Liu Bang (Emperor Gao) and ruled by the House of Liu. The dynasty was preceded by the short-lived Qin dynasty (221–207 BC) and a warr ...
, where the types and the number of ornaments was regulated based on a person's ranks.
In the
Sui dynasty, the twelve ornaments were reserved for the Emperor exclusively;
Emperor Yang Sui established a system which defined the exact location of these ornaments on the imperial robes.
This system continued in the
Ming dynasty
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last orthodox dynasty of China ruled by the Han peo ...
.
The system was changed in the
Qing dynasty
The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing,, was a Manchu-led imperial dynasty of China and the last orthodox dynasty in Chinese history. It emerged from the Later Jin dynasty founded by the Jianzhou Jurchens, a Tungusic-spea ...
when the Manchu established their own clothing system. The emperor wore all twelve ornaments on his clothing.
Bagua
Bagua
The bagua or pakua (八卦) are a set of eight symbols that originated in China, used in Taoist cosmology to represent the fundamental principles of reality, seen as a range of eight interrelated concepts. Each consists of three lines, each li ...
are also used to decorate clothing and textiles,
including in .
Bagua are believed to be derived from the markings on the back of a tortoise shell after it had been placed on sacrificial fire.
Yin and Yang
Yin and yang
Yin and yang ( and ) is a Chinese philosophical concept that describes opposite but interconnected forces. In Chinese cosmology, the universe creates itself out of a primary chaos of material energy, organized into the cycles of yin and ya ...
are also used to decorate clothing,
including and headwear.
Eight treasures
The
Eight treasures
The Eight Treasures (), also known as the ''Eight Precious Things'', are popular symbols often depicted in Chinese art and on Chinese numismatic charms.
While technically they may be any subset of the much longer list of the Hundred Treasures, t ...
(八宝 bābǎo) can appear on clothing and textile.
These motifs were typically used by Confucianists.
Eight emblems of the Immortals
The eight emblems of the Immortals are typically eight items representing the
Eight Immortals
The Eight Immortals () are a group of legendary '' xian'' ("immortals") in Chinese mythology. Each immortal's power can be transferred to a vessel () that can bestow life or destroy evil. Together, these eight vessels are called the "Covert Eight ...
and their powers can also appear on clothing and textile.
These motifs were typically used by taoists.
Ashtamangala/ Eight Sacred Buddhist Symbols
The
Ashtamangala can also appear on clothing, such as the dragon robes of the Qing dynasty.
These motifs were typically used by buddhists.
Other sets of ornaments
List natural landscape elements used in textile and clothing
Clouds/ auspicious clouds
Clouds, also referred as auspicious clouds (xiangyun 祥云), are the symbols of good fortune and happiness,
as well as a good omen of peace and the symbol of heavens.
Clouds designs have been used in artworks as early as the Eastern Zhou dynasty.
in the ancient times, auspicious clouds were of associated with deities and good fortune.
File:MET RT665.jpg
File:China, early 18th century - Fragment - 1920.1618.b - Cleveland Museum of Art.tif
File:MET DP12216.jpg
File:MET 2011 221 32 Strm1.jpg
Mountains and rocks
Mountains were symbolism of stability, greatness, and stable governance.
Mountains are also one of the twelve ornaments which are embroidered on the Imperial robes.
The rock found in the bottom-centre of the Qing dragon robes, represents the
sacred mountain
Sacred mountains are central to certain religions, and are usually the subjects of many legends. For many, the most symbolic aspect of a mountain is the peak because it is believed that it is closest to heaven or other religious realms. Many rel ...
(山, shān), one of the
Twelve ornaments.
Stars and constellation
Stars were typically represented by small circles.
When several stars (circles) are connected with lines, they became a constellation.
Sun
On the Qing dynasty rank badge (buzi), the sun disk is typically depicted as a red disc, which represents the emperor.
In the
Qing dynasty
The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing,, was a Manchu-led imperial dynasty of China and the last orthodox dynasty in Chinese history. It emerged from the Later Jin dynasty founded by the Jianzhou Jurchens, a Tungusic-spea ...
, animals, birds and creatures on a rank badges need to face the sun disc as symbol of loyalty to the Emperor.
Xingchen/ Three stars
Xingchen (星辰), is depicted as several small circle, symbolizes the indefinite Universe.
The number 3 has the meaning of having made everything and formed the beginning of things; this belief comes from
Laozi, who said that the universe made the original
matter
In classical physics and general chemistry, matter is any substance that has mass and takes up space by having volume. All everyday objects that can be touched are ultimately composed of atoms, which are made up of interacting subatomic part ...
of the Earth.
Waves and tides
Trees and plants
Pine tree
Evergreen
In botany, an evergreen is a plant which has foliage that remains green and functional through more than one growing season. This also pertains to plants that retain their foliage only in warm climates, and contrasts with deciduous plants, whic ...
pine tree
A pine is any conifer tree or shrub in the genus ''Pinus'' () of the family Pinaceae. ''Pinus'' is the sole genus in the subfamily Pinoideae. The World Flora Online created by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew and Missouri Botanical Garden ac ...
was a symbol of longevity.
Flowers
Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum flowers symbolize longevity and autumn season.
They could be used to decorate the garments of women.
Lotus flowers
Lotus flowers are symbols of purity and fruitfulness.
Double lotus are wishes for blessing marriage and harmony.
Peach blossoms
Peach
The peach (''Prunus persica'') is a deciduous tree first domesticated and cultivated in Zhejiang province of Eastern China. It bears edible juicy fruits with various characteristics, most called peaches and others (the glossy-skinned, non-f ...
blossoms are symbols of spring season and happiness.
Peony flowers
Peony flowers are symbols of prosperity, wealth, and honour;
they also a symbol of
spring
Spring(s) may refer to:
Common uses
* Spring (season)
Spring, also known as springtime, is one of the four temperate seasons, succeeding winter and preceding summer. There are various technical definitions of spring, but local usage of ...
and feminine beauty.
Peonies are often used on Chinese women's clothing.
Plum blossoms
Plum blossoms are symbol of winter season as it blooms in the cold.
They are also one of the most famous flowers in China and are common perceived as a symbol of
longevity.
It is used as decoration to decorate ,
Chinese opera costumes as it is an indicator of
wisdom
Wisdom, sapience, or sagacity is the ability to contemplate and act using knowledge, experience, understanding, common sense and insight. Wisdom is associated with attributes such as unbiased judgment, compassion, experiential self-knowle ...
and feminine charm.
or
or , are motifs used to decorate the
of the Song and Ming dynasty empresses.
Seeds
Lotus seed
A lotus seed or lotus nut is the seed of plants in the genus ''Nelumbo'', particularly the species ''Nelumbo nucifera''. The seeds are used in Asian cuisine and traditional medicine. Mostly sold in dried, shelled form, the seeds contain rich con ...
s were auspicious patterns, which were used to embroider Chinese cloth shoes, such as (); they were symbol of the birth of a child.
Fruits
The combination of longevity peaches,
bergamot, and pomegranate represents multiple children and longevity.
Gourds
A
gourd
Gourds include the fruits of some flowering plant species in the family Cucurbitaceae, particularly ''Cucurbita'' and '' Lagenaria''. The term refers to a number of species and subspecies, many with hard shells, and some without. One of the ear ...
is a symbol of fertility.
Doubles gourds are associated with
immortals
Immortality is the ability to live forever, or eternal life.
Immortal or Immortality may also refer to:
Film
* ''The Immortals'' (1995 film), an American crime film
* ''Immortality'', an alternate title for the 1998 British film '' The Wisdom of ...
and deities.
Peaches
A peach is a symbol of longevity;
peaches were also associated with the deity
Shoulao (God of longevity).
Pomegranate
A pomegranate () is an auspicious pattern which represents the "abundance in all things" (especially, sons).
It can also symbolize multiple children
or offspring multiplied.
Pomegranates can be used to embroider Chinese cloth shoes, such as ().
Mushroom
Lingzhi mushroom can be used on clothing, such as court clothing.
The auspicious characteristics of the lingzhi mushroom is a unique aspect in Chinese culture and were even worshipped in ancient times.
According ancient Taoist belief, the consumption of lingzhi allows one to never grow old and die.
Confucian scholars have been referring to the Lingzhi as "fortune herb" or "fortune grass" since the
Han dynasty
The Han dynasty (, ; ) was an imperial dynasty of China (202 BC – 9 AD, 25–220 AD), established by Liu Bang (Emperor Gao) and ruled by the House of Liu. The dynasty was preceded by the short-lived Qin dynasty (221–207 BC) and a warr ...
and considered the circular lines on the lingzhi cap as an auspicious symbol (or as fortune halos).
Lingzhi is therefore a symbol of Longevity, luck, fortune, peace, prosperity.
Auspicious mammal animals
Many animal motifs are found on Chinese textile and are often found in combined with cloud designs. Textile patterns with animals and clouds have been popular, especially during the Han to the Jin dynasty around the 1st to the 3rd century.
Bats
Chinese
bat
Bats are mammals of the order Chiroptera.''cheir'', "hand" and πτερόν''pteron'', "wing". With their forelimbs adapted as wings, they are the only mammals capable of true and sustained flight. Bats are more agile in flight than most ...
() motifs often look like a
butterfly
Butterflies are insects in the macrolepidopteran clade Rhopalocera from the order Lepidoptera, which also includes moths. Adult butterflies have large, often brightly coloured wings, and conspicuous, fluttering flight. The group comprise ...
.
A bat is a symbol of happiness.
Bats have an auspicious meaning as the Chinese words for () sounds similar to the phrase "abundant good fortune".
Bats can be coupled with the
Chinese character , written as《卐》and/or《卍》in Chinese characters, to expresses "ten thousand-fold wishes for good fortune and happiness".
Five bats () represent five types of good fortune, called the
Five blessings (), which are good health, good wealth, longevity, love of virtue and a natural/ peaceful death.
Deer
A
deer
Deer or true deer are hoofed ruminant mammals forming the family Cervidae. The two main groups of deer are the Cervinae, including the muntjac, the elk (wapiti), the red deer, and the fallow deer; and the Capreolinae, including the re ...
is a symbol of longevity.
The Chinese name of deer is is also a homophone for Chinese character 'wealth' and 'official promotion'; it is therefore also the symbol of
Luxing (the god of rank and remuneration).
Lions
The Chinese admired
lions for their strength and courage; therefore, lions became associated with military and hunting prowess; they were typically found on the military rank badges on the Ming and Qing dynasties.
Rabbits
Rabbits, especially white rabbits, are symbols of longevity.
Textiles which show a rabbit motif are strongly associated with women and the moon (yin forces) and therefore, textiles with a rabbit on it would typically only be worn by women and eunuchs.
Yuetu/ Yutu/ Moon rabbit
Yuetu (lit. "
moon rabbit
The Moon rabbit or Moon hare is a mythical figure in East Asian and indigenous American folklore, based on pareidolia interpretations that identify the dark markings on the near side of the Moon as a rabbit or hare. In East Asia, the rabbit is ...
"), also known as yutu (jade rabbit) is a symbol of the moon.
According to ancient Chinese legends, the moon rabbit (and/or rabbits) lived on the moon.
Following this ancient belief, rabbits which run amongst
clouds are intended to symbolize the moon.
The moon rabbit is one of the
Twelve Ornaments, which adorn the Emperor's imperial robe; it is depicted as a rabbit in a disc, which represents the moon.
Tigers
Tiger
The tiger (''Panthera tigris'') is the largest living cat species and a member of the genus ''Panthera''. It is most recognisable for its dark vertical stripes on orange fur with a white underside. An apex predator, it primarily preys on ...
s were symbols of
masculinity and was seen as a fighting power as the Lord of the animal kingdom.
Tiger heads are often found in
Xifu
Hangzhou ( or , ; , , Standard Mandarin pronunciation: ), also romanized as Hangchow, is the capital and most populous city of Zhejiang, China. It is located in the northwestern part of the province, sitting at the head of Hangzhou Bay, wh ...
where it is used to decorate military costumes.
Auspicious birds
On textiles, birds were often inspired by paintings, literature, and by observation the natural surroundings; textiles which show birds paired with flowers originated from paintings, which were already popular during the
Tang dynasty
The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, t= ), or Tang Empire, was an imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907 AD, with an interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed by the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdom ...
before gaining more social significance near the end of the
Northern Song dynasty
Northern may refer to the following:
Geography
* North, a point in direction
* Northern Europe, the northern part or region of Europe
* Northern Highland, a region of Wisconsin, United States
* Northern Province, Sri Lanka
* Northern Range, a ...
.
Birds have an important place in Chinese culture as they are perceived as divine envoys and the heralds of auspicious events.
Birds were associated with a noble character while pairs of birds were sometimes associated with marital relationship between spouses.
The depiction of a crane with a phoenix, a mandarin duck, a heron, and a wagtail represents the
5 interpersonal relations according to Confucian beliefs.
Crane birds
A
crane bird is generally a symbol of longevity,
immortality and wisdom.
They can also express wishes of becoming a higher official.
Motif of crane with a peach of immortality in its beaks, crane with
lingzhi in its beak,
crane paired with bottle gourds are all symbols of longevity.
A pair of cranes expresses desire for a long matrimonial life.
Two cranes flying toward the sun are a symbol of ambition.
Mandarin ducks
A
mandarin duck
The mandarin duck (''Aix galericulata'') is a perching duck species native to the East Palearctic. It is medium-sized, at long with a wingspan. It is closely related to the North American wood duck, the only other member of the genus ''Aix'' ...
(yuanyang 鴛鴦) is a symbol of love and loyalty.
Mandarin ducks are also a symbol of marital fidelity and can be used on the clothing of brides.
Pairs of mandarin ducks were symbols of conjugal bliss and even appear on the clothing of brides.
Pairs of mandarin ducks also symbolize peace, prosperity, marital stability and devotion due to the belief that mandarin ducks pair up for life and would die if they were to be separated.
Peacocks
A peacock (孔雀 kongque) represents elegance, dignity and beauty.
It is also the symbol of the sun, virtue, love, and the power of the civil officials in the Imperial court.
Pheasants
Colourful pheasants/ Huachong
Huachong is a colourful pheasant.
It is also one of the twelve symbols.
It is used on the imperial clothing of the Emperor and on the
Diyi
(; ), also called known as () and (), is the historical Chinese attire worn by the empresses of the Song dynasty and by the empresses and crown princesses (wife of crown prince) in the Ming Dynasty. The also had different names based on its co ...
. On the clothing of the Emperor, it represents the emperor's abundant knowledge, peace, and elegance.
Golden pheasants
A golden pheasant (jinji 金雞) symbolizes duties and obligations.
Silver pheasants
Silver pheasant (baixian 白鷴) is a symbol of beauty and happiness.
Other birds
Egrets or heron
Lu (鹭) symbolized a route or a path.
When lu is paired with lotuses, it is represents the Confucian ideal of what an uncorrupted official is; it can also have the meaning as "recurring success on the path to career" where Lu is the path and the official gratification and the lotus represents the "recurring" characteristic.
Paradise flycatcher
Paradise flycatcher (shoudai niao 绶带鸟) with its long tail looking like ribbons represents longevity due to its name having the word 'shou' being the homonym of shou (longevity) and 'dai' being the homophone of dai (代) which means generation; thus expressing the wishes for longevity for the family's generation.
Quail
A
quail
Quail is a collective name for several genera of mid-sized birds generally placed in the order Galliformes. The collective noun for a group of quail is a flock, covey, or bevy.
Old World quail are placed in the family Phasianidae, and New ...
(anchun 鵪鶉) symbolizes courage
and is a symbol of peace.
Wild geese
A wild goose (dayan 大雁 or e 鹅) symbolizes loyalty, fidelity, and marital bliss.
Auspicious fish, reptiles, and amphibians
Fish
Fish are typically uses as a symbolism for wealth and abundance; the word fish ''yu'' is a homonym for the word abundance ''yu''.
File:Badge, rank (AM 1966.181-9).jpg
File:Panel (AM 1950.2-4).jpg
File:Gfp-blue-chinese-traditional-fabric.jpg
Reptiles
Tortoise
Tortoises are symbols of longevity.
Auspicious insects
Butterflies
The butterfly is a symbol of conjugal happiness.
Combination of different animal categories
Cat and butterfly
The combination of a cat and a butterfly symbolizes the longevity of old people.
Chinese dragons (including python)
Chinese dragon
The Chinese dragon, also known as ''loong'', ''long'' or ''lung'', is a legendary creature in Chinese mythology, Chinese folklore, and Chinese culture at large. Chinese dragons have many animal-like forms such as turtles and fish, but are most ...
s, ''long'' (), are the national
totem
A totem (from oj, ᑑᑌᒼ, italics=no or '' doodem'') is a spirit being, sacred object, or symbol that serves as an emblem of a group of people, such as a family, clan, lineage, or tribe, such as in the Anishinaabe clan system.
While ''the ...
of the Chinese people; they are the most majestic symbols and are a symbol of authority, nobleness, honour, luck and success.
According to Chinese cosmology, the Heavens are divided into nine palaces; and each of these nine palaces are ruled by a dragon.
These nine dragons are often depicting as either ascending to or descending from the sky; they are also the symbolism of the dynamic powers of the Universe.
Chinese dragons are crucial elements on Chinese imperial clothing
and appeared on the imperial court clothing at the end of the 7th century and became the symbol of the Chinese emperors in the
Song dynasty
The Song dynasty (; ; 960–1279) was an imperial dynasty of China that began in 960 and lasted until 1279. The dynasty was founded by Emperor Taizu of Song following his usurpation of the throne of the Later Zhou. The Song conquered the rest ...
.
Chinese dragons continued to be used in the Qing dynasty in the imperial and court clothing.
The types of dragons and their numbers of claws were regulated and prescribed by the imperial court.
When Chinese dragons are enclosed in roundels, they are referred as tuanlong (团龙); they can also be enclosed in
mandarin square
A mandarin square ( zh, t=補子, s=补子, hp=bŭzi, w=putzŭ; mnc, m=, v=sabirgi; vi, Bổ tử; Chữ Nho: 補子; ko, 흉배/胸背, hyungbae), also known as a rank badge, was a large embroidered badge sewn onto the surcoat of officials ...
(buzi).
The Chinese dragons originally had three claws in the
Tang
Tang or TANG most often refers to:
* Tang dynasty
* Tang (drink mix)
Tang or TANG may also refer to:
Chinese states and dynasties
* Jin (Chinese state) (11th century – 376 BC), a state during the Spring and Autumn period, called Tang (唐) b ...
and
Song dynasties,
but the definition of Chinese dragons in China eventually shifted, and were regulated and institutionalized. It was therefore formally established that the Chinese dragons should have 5-clawed in the
Ming
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last orthodox dynasty of China ruled by the Han peop ...
and
Qing dynasties
The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing,, was a Manchu-led imperial dynasty of China and the last orthodox dynasty in Chinese history. It emerged from the Later Jin dynasty founded by the Jianzhou Jurchens, a Tungusic-speaki ...
while the 4-clawed dragon were no longer considered to be dragons, but ''mang'' (蟒, lit. "python").
Only the Emperor of China and some members of the imperial family were allowed to wear five-clawed dragons motifs which matched with the definition of Chinese dragons at those times. Other people wore other forms of dragon-like creatures, which were no longer considered as being Chinese dragons according to the contemporary standard. According to
Shen Defu Shen Defu () (1578–1642) was a Chinese writer and bureaucrat during the Ming Dynasty. He lived in Zhejiang.
In 1618, he achieved the rank of '' juren'' in the Imperial examinations, but failed an exam for promotion to the rank of ''jinshi'' a yea ...
, a bureaucrat in the Ming dynasty, ''"the
mang robe''
服, lit. "python robe"''is a garment with an image close to a dragon, similar to the dragon robe of the top authority (the emperor), except for the deduction of one claw".''
Clothing with 4-clawed Chinese dragon-like creatures were
mangfu
(), also known as (), (), and , sometimes referred as dragon robe although they are different garments, in English, is a type of , a robe, in . The falls under the broad category of (), where the is considered as being the classic form of . ...
,
feiyufu
Feiyufu (), also called feiyu mangyi (), is a type of Hanfu, traditional Han Chinese clothing which first appeared in the Ming dynasty. It is also specific name which generally refers to a robe (generally Terlig, tieli) decorated with the pattern ...
and
douniufu; feiyu and douniu have additional specific characteristics which differ them from both the mang and the long.
When the Ming dynasty court would bestow robes upon other chieftains, they would bestow four-clawed dragons;
lesser princes, nobles and senior court officials of the Ming dynasty were also prescribed mang.
Xinglong/ travelling dragon/ moving dragon
Xinlong (行龙) are curled body dragons that run horizontally with a sideways facing body and feet pointed downward, giving the appearance that they are walking or running.
Dragon playing with (flaming) pearl or ball
A common motif used in clothing and other arts products is the dragon playing with flaming pearls (or balls
), which appeared during the second half of the first 1st millennium AD.
The flaming ball or ball represents either the sun or the moon; it is sometimes referred as the "day or night shining pearl".
File:MET 35 84 3 d5.jpeg, Travelling dragon (xinglong) chasing after a flaming pearl.
File:MET 78651.jpg, Unenclosed opposing dragons chasing after a pearl,
File:MET RT704A (Roundel with opposing dragons with flaming pearl).jpg, Opposing dragons (one ascending and one descending) chasing after flaming pearl enclosed in a roundel.
Lilong/ standing dragon
Lilong (立龙), or standing dragon,
is a dragon with curved standing body,
with its head in profile (facing a side).
The legs are splayed limbs and well distributed on 4 sides.
File:MET DP255294.jpg
File:Left-facing dragon pattern on Wanli Emperor's imperial robe.svg
File:Robe, dragon, man's (AM 9838-17).jpg
Sitting dragon/ front-facing dragon
Sitting dragon (zhenglong 正龙) or front-facing dragon
is a dragon with a curved body with its head facing front with splayed limbs.
The legs are well distributed on 4 sides.
The body have 7 bends.
File:Badge (Lizi) of the Imperial Prince with Dragon LACMA M.49.6.8 (1 of 2).jpg, Zhengman (4-clawed dragon) in a roundel
File:MET 169280.jpg, Zhengmang in a buzi
File:Badge impérial Dynastie Qing Musée Guimet 17092017.jpg, Zhenglong (5-clawed) in a roundel
File:Robe, dragon (AM 4121-7).jpg, Unenclosed zhenglong
Jianglong/ descending dragon
Jianglong (降龙) or descending dragons are curling dragons which appear to be descending vertically.
File:Clevelandart 1995.73.jpg, Three-clawed jianglong in roundel, Yuan dynasty
File:Kesi roundel with five-clawed dragon design.jpg, Jianglong enclosed in a roundel, Ming dynasty
File:MET 54 27 7 d1.jpeg, Unenclosed jianglong, Qing dynasty
Shenglong/ ascending dragon
Shenglong (升龙) or ascending dragons (爬龍) are curling dragons which appear to be ascending vertically.
File:MET 175116.jpg
File:MET 144233.jpg
File:Court vest with dragons and clouds, China, embroidery by Imperial Silk Manufactory, Suzhou, tailoring by Imperial Workshop, Beijing, Yongzheng period, 1723-1735 AD, silk - Peabody Essex Museum - DSC07898.jpg
File:清早期 彩絨龍袍料-Velvet Textile for a Dragon Robe MET DT5688.jpg
File:清康熙 妝花龍紋門簾-Door valance and side panels with dragons MET DP-14150-020.jpg
Confronted dragons
Confronted dragons are two dragons facing toward each other and moving toward the same direction.
/ phoenix
symbolizes everything good and everything beautiful,
peace, good fortune, and feminine beauty.
The five virtues of the are righteousness, humanity, chastity, fairness and sincerity.
It is often found on the clothing of women.
The is also the symbol of the empress and represent the principle in the
Yin and Yang
Yin and yang ( and ) is a Chinese philosophical concept that describes opposite but interconnected forces. In Chinese cosmology, the universe creates itself out of a primary chaos of material energy, organized into the cycles of yin and ya ...
philosophical concept.
In Imperial China, the was only embroidered on the clothing of the empresses.
Double phoenix
In the Ming dynasty, double phoenix were used in the rank badges were used by female member of the imperial household.
/ Flying dragon and Dancing phoenix
() is an auspicious ornaments which symbolizes marital bliss.
In the context of a traditional Chinese wedding, the , Chinese dragons, and ,
Chinese phoenix
''Fènghuáng'' (, ) are mythological birds found in Sinospheric mythology that reign over all other birds. The males were originally called ''fèng'' and the females ''huáng'', but such a distinction of gender is often no longer made and ...
, represent the groom and the bride respectively.
The can be used to embroider Chinese cloth shoes, such as .
symbolizes good luck for an empire;
it is also the symbol of virtue and perfection.
Prior to 1662, was used to decorate clothing of the nobles.
After the 1662, the was used to decorate the
mandarin square
A mandarin square ( zh, t=補子, s=补子, hp=bŭzi, w=putzŭ; mnc, m=, v=sabirgi; vi, Bổ tử; Chữ Nho: 補子; ko, 흉배/胸背, hyungbae), also known as a rank badge, was a large embroidered badge sewn onto the surcoat of officials ...
() of the military officials of the 1st rank.
Sun crow
Sanzuwu/ Three-legged crow
According to Chinese legends and mythology, the
sanzuwu lived on the sun and was perceived as the envoy who operated the sun; since the ancient Chinese people worshipped the sun, the sanzuwu was worshipped as a symbol of happiness and comfort.
The sanzuwu is one of the
Twelve Ornaments, which adorn the Emperor's imperial robe.
List of Chinese characters used in textile and clothing
Textiles and clothes in China could be decorated with auspicious Chinese characters.
Fu
Fu (福) means fortune
or blessing.
Ji
Ji (吉) means good luck.
Inscriptions such as Ji (吉) and daji (大吉) have appeared very early on in ancient China and even appeared on unearthed oracle bones.
The character ji could be used to decorate dragon robes in the Qing dynasty.
Shou
Shou《壽》means longevity.
The stylized character of shou can also be used to decorate women's garments.
The Chinese character shou can also be combined with Chinese character wan, written as《卐》or《卍》.
Wan
The Chinese character wan, written as《卐》or《卍》, is similar to the
swastika. It is a symbol of immortality.
It was adopted from a Buddhist symbol. It was declared as the source of all good fortune in 693 by
Wu Zetian
Wu Zetian (17 February 624 – 16 December 705), personal name Wu Zhao, was the ''de facto'' ruler of the Tang dynasty from 665 to 705, ruling first through others and then (from 690) in her own right. From 665 to 690, she was first empres ...
who called it wan.
Wan sounds the same as "ten thousand" or "infinity"; as such adding wan to another symbol pattern multiplies that wish 10,000 times.
It can be combined with other Chinese characters such as shou (longevity).
Xi
The character xi (喜) means happiness.
Xi/ double happiness
The character
xi (囍) or double happiness is a pattern which expresses blessing marriage and harmony.
List of objects used in textile and clothing
Coins
Coins are symbol of wealth.
Precious gems/ stones
Coral
A twig of
coral
Corals are marine invertebrates within the class Anthozoa of the phylum Cnidaria. They typically form compact colonies of many identical individual polyps. Coral species include the important reef builders that inhabit tropical oceans and ...
symbolizes long age and career
Pearl or flaming pearl
Pearls (baozhu) is symbol of good fortune (wealth); it was used to decorate clothing.
According to Chinese belief, pearls embodied the
yin
Yin may refer to:
*the dark force in the yin and yang from traditional Chinese philosophy and medicine
*Yīn (surname) (), a Chinese surname
*Yǐn (surname) (), a Chinese surname
*Shang dynasty, also known as the Yin dynasty
**Yinxu or Yin, the S ...
essence of the
moon
The Moon is Earth's only natural satellite. It is the fifth largest satellite in the Solar System and the largest and most massive relative to its parent planet, with a diameter about one-quarter that of Earth (comparable to the width of ...
and would protect them from the yang essence of the sun.
Pearls are often depicted with the imperial dragon as according to the legend, the dragon guards a peal under the water.
The pearl is one of the
Eight treasures
The Eight Treasures (), also known as the ''Eight Precious Things'', are popular symbols often depicted in Chinese art and on Chinese numismatic charms.
While technically they may be any subset of the much longer list of the Hundred Treasures, t ...
and regularly appears on textiles and rank badge.
By the mid-Qing dynasty, the pearl evolved into the flaming pearl.
The flaming pearl represents the sun, wisdom, power and an imperial treasure.
Ball or flaming ball
The ball or flaming ball represents either the sun or the moon; it is sometimes referred as the "day or night shining pearl".
Animal-based objects
Rhinoceros horn
Rhinoceros horn is a symbol of virtue.
Literacy objects
Scrolls are symbol of learning.
Related concepts
*
List of Chinese symbols, designs, and art motifs
A list of Chinese symbols, designs, and art motifs, including decorative ornaments, patterns, auspicious symbols, and iconography elements, used in Chinese visual arts, sorted in different theme categories. Chinese symbols and motifs are more ...
*
Five colours
*
Five blessings
*
Chinese numerology
Some numbers are believed by some to be auspicious or lucky (吉利, ) or inauspicious or unlucky (不吉, ) based on the Chinese word that the number sounds similar to. The numbers 3, 6, and 8 are generally considered to be lucky, while 4 is ...
See also
*
Traditional patterns of Korea
*
Chinese ornamental gold silk
*
Chinese embroidery
Chinese embroidery refers to embroidery created by any of the cultures located in the area that makes up modern China. It is some of the oldest extant needlework. The four major regional styles of Chinese embroidery are Suzhou embroidery (Su Xiu ...
Notes
{{Reflist, group=note
References
Chinese traditional clothing
Chinese art
Chinese folk art
Chinese traditions
Chinese iconography