1870s fashion in European and European-influenced
clothing
Clothing (also known as clothes, apparel, and attire) are items worn on the body. Typically, clothing is made of fabrics or textiles, but over time it has included garments made from animal skin and other thin sheets of materials and natural ...
is characterized by a gradual return to a narrow silhouette after the full-skirted fashions of the
1850s
The 1850s (pronounced "eighteen-fifties") was a decade of the Gregorian calendar that began on January 1, 1850, and ended on December 31, 1859.
It was a very turbulent decade, as wars such as the Crimean War, shifted and shook European politic ...
and
1860s.
Women's fashions
Overview
By 1870, fullness in the
skirt
A skirt is the lower part of a dress or a separate outer garment that covers a person from the waist downwards.
At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of fabric (such as pareos). However, most skirts are fi ...
had moved to the rear, where elaborately draped
overskirt
An overskirt is a type of women's short skirt which is draped over another garment, such as a skirt, breeches, or trousers. Although peplum is often used as another term for overskirt, it should not be confused with the ''peplos'' or "peplum dress ...
s were held in place by tapes and supported by a
bustle
A bustle is a padded undergarment used to add fullness, or support the drapery, at the back of women's dresses in the mid-to-late 19th century. Bustles are worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging. ...
. This fashion required an underskirt, which was heavily
trimmed
''Trimmed'' is a 1922 American silent Western film directed by Harry A. Pollard and featuring Hoot Gibson. It is not known whether the film currently survives, and it may be a lost film.
Cast
* Hoot Gibson as Dale Garland
* Patsy Ruth Miller ...
with pleats, flounces, rouching, and frills. This fashion was short-lived (though the bustle would return again in the mid-
1880s
The 1880s (pronounced "eighteen-eighties") was a decade of the Gregorian calendar that began on January 1, 1880, and ended on December 31, 1889.
The period was characterized in general by economic growth and prosperity in many parts of the world, ...
), and was succeeded by a tight-fitting silhouette with fullness as low as the knees: the ''cuirass''
bodice
A bodice () is an article of clothing traditionally for women and girls, covering the torso from the neck to the waist. The term typically refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the ...
, a form-fitting, long-waisted, boned bodice that reached below the hips, and the princess sheath dress. Sleeves were very tight fitting. Square necklines were common.
Day dresses had high necklines that were either closed, squared, or V-shaped. Sleeves of morning dresses were narrow throughout the period, with a tendency to flare slightly at the wrist early on. Women often draped overskirts to produce an apronlike effect from the front.
Gowns had low necklines and very short, off-the-shoulder sleeves, and were worn with short (later mid-length)
glove
A glove is a garment covering the hand. Gloves usually have separate sheaths or openings for each finger and the thumb.
If there is an opening but no (or a short) covering sheath for each finger they are called fingerless gloves. Fingerless glov ...
s. Other characteristic fashions included a
velvet
Weave details visible on a purple-colored velvet fabric
Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel. By extension, the word ''velvety'' means ...
ribbon
A ribbon or riband is a thin band of material, typically cloth but also plastic or sometimes metal, used primarily as decorative binding and tying. Cloth ribbons are made of natural materials such as silk, cotton, and jute and of synthetic mater ...
tied high around the neck and trailing behind for evening in a similar style to
Georgian era
The Georgian era was a period in British history from 1714 to , named after the Hanoverian Kings George I, George II, George III and George IV. The definition of the Georgian era is often extended to include the relatively short reign of Willi ...
fashion (the origin of the modern
choker
A choker is a close-fitting necklace worn around the neck, typically 14 inch to 16 inch in length. Chokers can be made of a variety of materials, including velvet, plastic, beads, latex, leather, metal, such as silver, gold, or platinum, etc. The ...
necklace
A necklace is an article of jewellery that is worn around the neck. Necklaces may have been one of the earliest types of adornment worn by humans. They often serve Ceremony, ceremonial, Religion, religious, magic (illusion), magical, or Funerary ...
).
Tea gowns and artistic dress
Under the influence of the
Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood
The Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood (later known as the Pre-Raphaelites) was a group of English painters, poets, and art critics, founded in 1848 by William Holman Hunt, John Everett Millais, Dante Gabriel Rossetti, William Michael Rossetti, James ...
and other artistic reformers, the "anti-fashion" for
Artistic dress with its "
medieval
In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or medieval period lasted approximately from the late 5th to the late 15th centuries, similar to the Post-classical, post-classical period of World history (field), global history. It began with t ...
" details and uncorseted lines continued through the 1870s. Newly fashionable
tea gown
A tea gown or tea-gown is a woman's dress for informal entertaining at home. These dresses, which became popular around the mid-19th century, are characterized by unstructured lines and light fabrics. Early tea gowns were a European development in ...
s, an informal fashion for entertaining at home, combined Pre-Raphaelite influences with the loose sack-back styles of the 18th century.
Leisure Dress
Leisure dress was becoming an important part of a woman's wardrobe. Seaside dress in England had its own distinct characteristics but still followed the regular fashions of the day. Seaside dress was seen as more daring, frivolous, eccentric, and brighter. Even though the bustle was extremely cumbersome, it was still a part of seaside fashion.
Undergarments
With the narrower silhouette, emphasis was placed on the bust, waist and hips. A
corset
A corset is a support garment commonly worn to hold and train the torso into a desired shape, traditionally a smaller waist or larger bottom, for aesthetic or medical purposes (either for the duration of wearing it or with a more lasting effe ...
was used to help mold the body to the desired shape. This was achieved by making the corsets longer than before, and by constructing them from separate shaped pieces of fabric. To improve support, corsets were reinforced with many strips of whalebone, cording, or pieces of leather. Steam-molding, patented in 1868, helped hold the curvaceous contour.
[Takeda and spilker (2010), p. 96]
Skirts were supported by a hybrid of the
bustle
A bustle is a padded undergarment used to add fullness, or support the drapery, at the back of women's dresses in the mid-to-late 19th century. Bustles are worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging. ...
and
crinoline
A crinoline is a stiff or structured petticoat designed to hold out a woman's skirt, popular at various times since the mid-19th century. Originally, crinoline described a stiff fabric made of horsehair ("crin") and cotton or linen which was ...
or hooped petticoat sometimes called a "crinolette". The cage structure was attached around the waist and extended down to the ground, but only extended down the back of the wearer's legs. The crinolette itself was quickly superseded by the true bustle, which was sufficient for supporting the drapery and train at the back of the skirt.
Hairstyles and headgear
In keeping with the vertical emphasis,
hair
Hair is a protein filament that grows from follicles found in the dermis. Hair is one of the defining characteristics of mammals.
The human body, apart from areas of glabrous skin, is covered in follicles which produce thick terminal and f ...
was pulled back at the sides and worn in a high knot or cluster of ringlets, often with a
fringe (bangs) over the forehead. False hair was commonly used.
Bonnet
A Bonnet is a variety of headgear, hat or cap
Specific types of headgear referred to as "bonnets" may include
Scottish
* Blue bonnet, a distinctive woollen cap worn by men in Scotland from the 15th-18th centuries And its derivations:
**Feath ...
s were smaller to allow for the elaborately piled hairstyles and resembled
hat
A hat is a head covering which is worn for various reasons, including protection against weather conditions, ceremonial reasons such as university graduation, religious reasons, safety, or as a fashion accessory. Hats which incorporate mecha ...
s except for their ribbons tied under the chin. Smallish hats, some with
veil
A veil is an article of clothing or hanging cloth that is intended to cover some part of the head or face, or an object of some significance. Veiling has a long history in European, Asian, and African societies. The practice has been prominent ...
s, were perched on top of the head, and brimmed straw hats were worn for outdoor wear in summer.
Wraps and Overcoats
The main kind of wrap that dominated in the 1870s were capes and jackets that had a back vent in order to make room for the
bustle
A bustle is a padded undergarment used to add fullness, or support the drapery, at the back of women's dresses in the mid-to-late 19th century. Bustles are worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging. ...
. Some examples are the
pelisse
A pelisse was originally a short fur-trimmed jacket which hussar light-cavalry soldiers from the 17th century onwards usually wore hanging loose over the left shoulder, ostensibly to prevent sword cuts. The name also came to refer to a fashion ...
and the paletot coat.
Style gallery 1870–1874
Image:Petersons walking dress 1870.jpg, 1 – 1870
Image:1870s fashion plate.jpg, 2 – 1870
Image:Bathing suit MET 1979.346.18ab.jpeg, 3 – 1870s bathing dress
A bathing dress was a mode of dress used for ladies' swimming/bathing activities during the 19th century. These bathing costumes originally included ankle length dresses, long pants, and long sleeves. Around the 1880s the sleeves and hemlines of t ...
Image:Pierre-Auguste Renoir - La Femme à la perruche.jpg, 4 – 1871
Image:Dolly Varden Quadrille music sheet cover.jpg, 5 – 1872
Image:Whistler leyland 1872-3.jpg, 6 – 1872–73
File:Dress_MET_1986.304ab_S.jpg, 7 – 1872–75
Image:La Gazette rose, 16 Mai 1874; robe à tournure.jpg, 8 – 1874
File:Klänning_helbild_-_Livrustkammaren_-_31057.tif, 9 – c. 1874
Image:Tissot shipboard detail.jpg, 10 – c. 1874
Image:Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot 014.jpg, 11 – 1874
Image:Pierre-Auguste Renoir 089.jpg, 12 – 1874
#
Walking dress of 1870 has a tiered and ruffled skirt back.
#
1870 fashion plate shows jacket-bodices with draped and trimmed skirts in back. Ruffles and pleated frills are characteristic trimmings of the 1870s.
#
1870s American bathing dress, with ankle length skirt, long pants, and long sleeves
#
French morning dress of 1871 features a narrow red ribbon at the low neckline and a large matching bow with streamers at the back waist.
#
Dolly Varden dresses of 1872 demonstrate the popular fashion of the early 1870s known as "
Dolly Varden"
#
Artistic dress of the early 1870s. Portrait of Mrs. Frances Leyland by
Whistler.
#
Day dress
Morning dress, also known as formal day dress, is the formal Western dress code for day attire, consisting chiefly of, for men, a morning coat, waistcoat, and formal trousers, and an appropriate gown for women. Men may also wear a popular vari ...
ca 1872-75s, purple silk
#
Outdoor dresses of 1874 feature overskirts caught up with buckled ribbons. Jacket-bodices have cuffs and high necklines. Small straw hats with flat crowns and long ribbons (similar to men's
boaters) are worn tipped forward.
#
Gala dress ca 1874.
#
Backview of a dress of 1874 shows the draping of the overskirt and the slight train on the underskirt. France.
#
Dress of 1874 with draped overskirt and ruffled underskirt.
Style gallery 1874–1879
Image:Journal des Dames 18474-1876.jpg, 1 – 1874–1876
Image:Berthe Morisot - Figure of a Woman.jpg, 2 – 1875–76
Image:Tissot lilacs 1875.jpg, 3 – c. 1875
File:Dagmar and alexandra.jpg, 4 – 1875
Image:James Tissot - The Gallery of HMS Calcutta (Portsmouth).jpg, 5 – c. 1877
Image:Jeanna Samary-Renoir.png, 6 – 1878
Image:ZINGARELLA1879.gif, 7 – 1878
Image:Margaret Forrest.jpg, 8 –1876
File:Hunting Dress LACMA M.2007.211.779.1a-b (1 of 4).jpg, 9 — c. 1878
#
Tight dresses with long trains of the mid-1870s are trimmed with pleated ruffles, bows, buttons, and braid, and are worn with hats with ribbon streamers.
#
French gown is festooned with flowers and is worn with mid-length white gloves and a black neck ribbon. The high-knotted hairstyle is typical of the mid-1870s.
#
Morning dress of c. 1875 has a trailing overskirt and is trimmed with a profusion of ruffles and ribbons. Hair is braided into a crown high on the head.
# Princesses
Dagmar and
Alexandra of Denmark
Alexandra of Denmark (Alexandra Caroline Marie Charlotte Louise Julia; 1 December 1844 – 20 November 1925) was Queen of the United Kingdom and the British Dominions, and Empress of India, from 22 January 1901 to 6 May 1910 as the wife of King ...
in 1875.
#
Semi-sheer dresses of c. 1877 show back fullness beginning at hip-level rather than the waist as in 1874–5. The tight, princess-line dress on the right fits smoothly to the body from the shoulders to the lower hips.
#
Gown
A gown, from the Saxon word, ''gunna'', is a usually loose outer garment from knee-to-full-length worn by men and women in Europe from the Early Middle Ages to the 17th century, and continuing today in certain professions; later, the term ''gown ...
of 1878 has a long train and a squared neckline. It is worn with
opera-length gloves.
#
Jacket and skirt costume of 1878 features a long train trimmed with pleated frills and ruching. Matching ruching trims the cuffs of the sleeves.
#
Court gown of 1876 features a train, long white gloves and the three white ostrich feathers representing the Prince of Wales plumes in the hair.
#
Hunting costume is made green wool, Scotland, c. 1878.
Caricature gallery
Image:Late-1870s-dumaurier-veto.png, 1 – late 1870s
Image:1871-fashion-class-contrast.gif, 2 – 1871
Image:Punch1876september.jpg, 3 – 1876
image:1878-Punch-DuMaurier-stoop-joke.png, 4 – 1878
#
Cartoon
A cartoon is a type of visual art that is typically drawn, frequently animated, in an unrealistic or semi-realistic style. The specific meaning has evolved over time, but the modern usage usually refers to either: an image or series of images ...
"Veto" by
George du Maurier
George Louis Palmella Busson du Maurier (6 March 1834 – 8 October 1896) was a Franco-British cartoonist and writer known for work in ''Punch'' and a Gothic novel ''Trilby'', featuring the character Svengali. His son was the actor Sir Gerald d ...
from ''Punch'', satirizing the tight dress styles of the late 1870s.
#
An extreme class contrast: "Young lady of fashion, 1871" vs. "London Dairywoman".
#From the Danish ''Punch'', satirizing the general fashion in 1876
#
Cartoon
A cartoon is a type of visual art that is typically drawn, frequently animated, in an unrealistic or semi-realistic style. The specific meaning has evolved over time, but the modern usage usually refers to either: an image or series of images ...
by
George du Maurier
George Louis Palmella Busson du Maurier (6 March 1834 – 8 October 1896) was a Franco-British cartoonist and writer known for work in ''Punch'' and a Gothic novel ''Trilby'', featuring the character Svengali. His son was the actor Sir Gerald d ...
from ''Punch'', May 25, 1878, satirizing both impractical women's fashions and men's formal military uniforms.
Men's fashion
Innovations in men's fashion of the 1870s included the acceptance of patterned or ''figured'' fabrics for
shirt
A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body (from the neck to the waist).
Originally an undergarment worn exclusively by men, it has become, in American English, a catch-all term for a broad variety of upper-body garments and undergarments. I ...
s and the general replacement of
necktie
A necktie, or simply a tie, is a piece of cloth worn for decorative purposes around the neck, resting under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat, and often draped down the chest.
Variants include the ascot, bow, bolo, zipper tie, cra ...
s tied in bow knots with the four-in-hand and later the
ascot tie
An ascot tie or ascot is a neckband with wide pointed wings, traditionally made of pale grey patterned silk. This wide tie is usually patterned, folded over, and fastened with a tie pin or tie clip. It is usually reserved for formal wear with mo ...
.
Coats and trousers
Frock coat
A frock coat is a formal men's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt cut all around the base just above the knee, popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s). It is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at th ...
s remained fashionable, but new shorter versions arose, distinguished from the sack coat by a waist seam.
Waistcoat
A waistcoat ( UK and Commonwealth, or ; colloquially called a weskit), or vest ( US and Canada), is a sleeveless upper-body garment. It is usually worn over a dress shirt and necktie and below a coat as a part of most men's formal wear. I ...
s (U.S. ''vests'') were generally cut straight across the front and had collars and lapels, but collarless waistcoats were also worn.
Three-piece suits consisting of a high-buttoned sack coat with matching waistcoat and
trousers
Trousers (British English), slacks, or pants are an item of clothing worn from the waist to anywhere between the knees and the ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth extending across both legs as in robes, skirts, and dr ...
, called ''
ditto suit A man's suit (clothing), suit of clothes, in the sense of a lounge or business or office suit, is a set of garments which are crafted from the same cloth. This article discusses the history of the lounge suit, often called a business suit when featu ...
s'' or (UK) ''lounge suits'', grew in popularity; the sack coat might be cutaway so that only the top button could be fastened.
The cutaway
morning coat
A tailcoat is a knee-length coat (clothing), coat characterised by a rear section of the skirt, known as the ''tails'', with the front of the skirt cut away.
The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for convenient horse riding i ...
was still worn for informal day occasions in Europe and major cities elsewhere.
Frock coat
A frock coat is a formal men's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt cut all around the base just above the knee, popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s). It is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at th ...
s were required for more formal daytime dress. Formal
evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers. The coat now fastened lower on the chest and had wider lapels. A new fashion was a dark rather than white waistcoat. Evening wear was worn with a white bow tie and a shirt with the new winged collar.
Topcoats had wide lapels and deep cuffs, and often featured contrasting velvet collars. Furlined full-length
overcoat
An overcoat is a type of long coat (clothing), coat intended to be worn as the outermost garment, which usually extends below the knee. Overcoats are most commonly used in winter when warmth is more important.
They are sometimes confused with ...
s were luxury items in the coldest climates.
Full-length
trousers
Trousers (British English), slacks, or pants are an item of clothing worn from the waist to anywhere between the knees and the ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth extending across both legs as in robes, skirts, and dr ...
were worn for most occasions; tweed or woollen breeches were worn for hunting and hiking.
In 1873,
Levi Strauss
Levi Strauss (; born Löb Strauß ; February 26, 1829 – September 26, 1902) was a German-born American businessman who founded the first company to manufacture blue jeans. His firm of Levi Strauss & Co. (Levi's) began in 1853 in San Francisco ...
and
Jacob Davis began to sell the original copper-riveted
blue jeans
Jeans are a type of pants or trousers made from denim or dungaree cloth. Often the term "jeans" refers to a particular style of trousers, called "blue jeans", with copper-riveted pockets which were invented by Jacob W. Davis in 1871 and paten ...
in San Francisco. These became popular with the local multitude of gold seekers, who wanted strong clothing with durable pockets.
[http://www.uri.edu/personal/svon6141/history.htm The History of Jeans]
Shirts and neckties
The points of high upstanding shirt
collars were increasingly pressed into "wings".
Necktie fashions included the four-in-hand and, toward the end of the decade, the ascot tie, a tie with wide wings and a narrow neckband, fastened with a jewel or stickpin. Ties knotted in a bow remained a conservative fashion, and a white bowtie was required with formal evening wear.
A narrow ribbon tie was an alternative for tropical climates, and was increasingly worn elsewhere, especially in the Americas.
Accessories
Top hat
A top hat (also called a high hat, a cylinder hat, or, informally, a topper) is a tall, flat-crowned hat for men traditionally associated with formal wear in Western dress codes, meaning white tie, morning dress, or frock coat. Traditionally m ...
s remained a requirement for upper class formal wear;
bowlers and soft felt hats in a variety of shapes were worn for more casual occasions, and flat straw
boaters were worn for yachting and other nautical pastimes.
Style gallery 1870–1875
Image:President Rutherford Hayes 1870 - 1880 Restored.jpg, 1 – 1870s
Image:FrockCoat.jpg, 2 – 1870s
Image:Oliver Hazard Perry Morton - Brady-Handy.jpg, 3 – 1870s
Image:Tissot Railway Carriage.jpg, 4 – 1872
Image:Mens Coats 1872 Fashion Plate.jpg, 5 – 1872
Image:Mathew Brady 1875 cropped.jpg, 6 – 1875
#
1870s photo of President
Rutherford B. Hayes
Rutherford Birchard Hayes (; October 4, 1822 – January 17, 1893) was an American lawyer and politician who served as the 19th president of the United States from 1877 to 1881, after serving in the U.S. House of Representatives and as governor ...
. His coat and shawl-collared vest or waistcoat have covered buttons. Note functional buttonholes all the way up his coat lapel.
#
Three-piece suit
A suit, lounge suit, or business suit is a set of clothes comprising a suit jacket and trousers of identical textiles worn with a collared dress shirt, necktie, and dress shoes. A skirt suit is similar, but with a matching skirt instead of tr ...
with frock coat, 1870s.
#
Oliver Hazard Perry Morton
Oliver Hazard Perry Throck Morton (August 4, 1823 – November 1, 1877), commonly known as Oliver P. Morton, was a U.S. Republican Party politician from Indiana. He served as the 14th governor (the first native-born) of Indiana during the Amer ...
wears a narrow string tie, 1870s.
#
Gentleman in a railway carriage wears a dust-colored coat, trousers, and collar-less waistcoat with a dark red necktie. He wears a fur-lined overcoat and tan gloves. Britain, 1872.
#
Plate from ''The Gazette of Fashion'' shows a fur-lined overcoat (left) and double-breasted topcoat (right) with braid trim and decorative topstitching, 1872. Checked trousers were quite fashionable.
#
Photographer Mathew Brady wears a coat with braid trim on the collar and lapels over a matching waistcoat. His turned-down collar is worn over a four-in-hand necktie. 1875.
Style gallery 1875–1879
File:Man's two-piece lounge suit 1875-1880.jpg, 1 - 1875–1880
Image:Major-General The Hon. James MacDonald large.jpg, 2 – 1876
File:Bat Masterson 1879.jpg, 3 – 1879
Image:Albert Sassoon.jpg, 4 – 1879
Image:Acgladstone2.jpg, 5 – 1879
#
Two-piece lounge suit of
tartan
Tartan ( gd, breacan ) is a patterned cloth consisting of criss-crossed, horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Tartans originated in woven wool, but now they are made in other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Sc ...
wool twill buttons high in front. English lounge suits were typically worn with bowler hats. 1875-80, England,
Los Angeles County Museum of Art
The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) is an art museum located on Wilshire Boulevard in the Miracle Mile, Los Angeles, California, Miracle Mile vicinity of Los Angeles. LACMA is on Museum Row, adjacent to the La Brea Tar Pits (George C. Pa ...
, M.2010.33.9a-b.
#
Major-General The Hon. James MacDonald is drawn by
James Tissot
Jacques Joseph Tissot (; 15 October 1836 – 8 August 1902), anglicized as James Tissot (), was a French painter and illustrator. He was a successful painter of fashionable, modern scenes and society life in Paris before moving to London in 1871 ...
in a slightly fitted,
double-breasted
A double-breasted garment is a coat, jacket, waistcoat, or dress with wide, overlapping front flaps which has on its front two symmetrical columns of buttons; by contrast, a single-breasted item has a narrow overlap and only one column of button ...
topcoat with a diagonally positioned breast pocket and a contrasting collar. His shirt collar is pressed into flat wings and is worn with a wide, dark tie. He wears a top hat and gloves. 1876.
#
1879 photo of American lawman
Bat Masterson
Bartholemew William Barclay "Bat" Masterson (November 26, 1853 – October 25, 1921) was a U.S. Army scout, lawman, professional gambler, and journalist known for his exploits in the 19th and early 20th-century American Old West. He was born to ...
wearing a three-piece suit and a
bowler hat
The bowler hat, also known as a billycock, bob hat, bombín (Spanish) or derby (United States), is a hard felt hat with a rounded crown, originally created by the London hat-makers Thomas and William Bowler in 1849. It has traditionally been worn ...
. His cutaway sack coat has a high front closure and is worn buttoned only at the top, over a vest or waistcoat cut straight across at the waist and decorated with a prominent watch chain.
#
''Vanity Fair'' sketch of 1879 shows Sir Albert Abdallah David Sassoon in "morning dress" (formal daywear): grey trousers, dark cutaway coat, white waistcoat, wing-collared shirt and dark tie.
#
British statesman William Gladstone wears conservative clothing; his tall collar is still upstanding, and he wears his tie in a bow knot. 1879.
Necktie gallery
Image:JohnMcLeod23.jpg
Image:EricHarrington23.jpg
Image:MatthewCrooksCameron23.jpg
Image:SimonSCook23.jpg
Image:AbrahamCode23.jpg
Image:JamesCraig23.jpg
Image:HerbertStoneMacDonald23.jpg
Image:ArchibaldMcKellar23.jpg
1873 portraits of
members of the Legislative Assembly of Ontario
Member may refer to:
* Military jury, referred to as "Members" in military jargon
* Element (mathematics), an object that belongs to a mathematical set
* In object-oriented programming, a member of a class
** Field (computer science), entries in ...
illustrate the variety of fashionable neckwear (and facial hair).
Children's fashion
Infants continued to be dressed in flowing gowns, a style that continued into the early 20th century. Gender dress changes often did not occur until a child was five or six; however, in the later decades gender dress came much sooner. Girls' ages could be depicted often based on the length of their skirt. As the girls got older, they wore longer skirts. A four-year-old would wear her skirt slightly above knee length; ten to twelve at mid-knee; twelve to fifteen varied from below the knee to mid-calf; and by sixteen or seventeen, a girl's dress would be just above ankle length. The age of a boy could often be decided based on the length and type of trouser or how similar the attire was to that of a man's. Boys often dressed similar to adult males, as they too wore blazers and
Norfolk jackets.
Much influence on the styles of children's dress came from artist
Kate Greenaway
Catherine Greenaway (17 March 18466 November 1901) was an English Victorian artist and writer, known for her
children's book illustrations. She received her education in graphic design and art between 1858 and 1871 from the Finsbury School of ...
, an illustrator of children's books. She strongly influenced styles of young girls' dress, as she often showed girls dressed in empire styles in her books. The idea of children's dress being taken from books is also found is styles such as the
Little Lord Fauntleroy
''Little Lord Fauntleroy'' is a novel by Frances Hodgson Burnett. It was published as a serial in '' St. Nicholas Magazine'' from November 1885 to October 1886, then as a book by Scribner's (the publisher of ''St. Nicholas'') in 1886. The ill ...
suit which was worn by the hero of a children's book published in 1885-86.
Image:Fasiona plate girls 1870.jpg, 1870 fashion plate
File:Edouard Manet - Le Chemin de fer - Google Art Project.jpg, Summer dress with sash, 1872–73
File:Beatrice_and_Ethel_Hatch_was_taken_in_his_Christ_Church_Studio_on_24_March_1874.jpg, Sisters Beatrice and Ethel Hatch, 1874
Image:Amundsenboy.jpg, Young Roald Amundsen
Roald Engelbregt Gravning Amundsen (, ; ; 16 July 1872 – ) was a Norwegian explorer of polar regions. He was a key figure of the period known as the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration.
Born in Borge, Østfold, Norway, Amundsen bega ...
, c. 1875
Image:KingRockingHorse.jpg, Two-year-old William Lyon Mackenzie King
William Lyon Mackenzie King (December 17, 1874 – July 22, 1950) was a Canadian statesman and politician who served as the tenth prime minister of Canada for three non-consecutive terms from 1921 to 1926, 1926 to 1930, and 1935 to 1948. A Li ...
, c. 1876
See also
*
Victorian fashion
Victorian fashion consists of the various fashions and trends in British culture that emerged and developed in the United Kingdom and the British Empire throughout the Victorian era, roughly from the 1830s through the 1890s. The period saw m ...
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Corset controversy
The corset controversy concerns supporters' and detractors' arguments for and against wearing a corset. The controversy was contemporary with the time that corsets were popular in society. Corsets, variously called ''a pair of bodys'' or ''stays ...
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Dolly Varden (costume)
A Dolly Varden, in this sense, is a woman's outfit fashionable from about 1869 to 1875 in Britain and the United States. It is named after a character in Charles Dickens, and the items of clothing referred to are usually a hat or dress.
Name
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Artistic Dress movement
Notes
References
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Arnold, Janet: ''Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction C.1860–1940'', Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977.
*Ashelford, Jane: ''The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914'', Abrams, 1996.
* Goldthorpe, Caroline:
From Queen to Empress: Victorian Dress 1837–1877', Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1988, (full text available online from the Metropolitan Museum of Art Digital Collections)
*Martin, Linda: "The Way We Wore, Fashion Illustrations of Children's Wear 1870- 1970", Charles Scribner's Sons, New York, 1978,
*Payne, Blanche: ''History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century'', Harper & Row, 1965. No ISBN for this edition; ASIN B0006BMNFS
*Steele, Valerie: ''Paris Fashion: A Cultural History'', Oxford University Press, 1988;
*Takeda, Sharon Sadako, and Kaye Durland Spilker, ''Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700 - 1915'', LACMA/Prestel USA (2010),
*Tortora, Phyllis. Eubank, Keith: "Survey of Historic Costume, A History of Western Dress", Fourth Edition. Fairchild Publications, Inc. 1989;
External links
1870s Fashion Plates of men, women, and children's fashionfrom The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries
1870s Men's Fashions– c. 1870 Men's Fashion Photos with Annotations
*Fro
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ttps://web.archive.org/web/20021029094209/http://costume.osu.edu/Reforming_Fashion/image_exhibition/tea54.htm Reda silk brocade tea gown, c. 1876Brown challis tean gown in Liberty of London fabric, c. 1877*
Woman’s dress, 1870s, in the Staten Island Historical Society Online Collections DatabaseGirl’s dress, 1870s, in the Staten Island Historical Society Online Collections Database
{{DEFAULTSORT:1870s In Fashion
1870s fashion
History of clothing (Western fashion)