Åland

Åland ( , ; ) is an autonomous and demilitarised region of Finland. Receiving its autonomy by a 1920 decision of the League of Nations, it is the smallest region of Finland by both area () and population (30,541), constituting 0.51% of Finland's land area and 0.54% of its population. Its only official language is Swedish and the capital city is Mariehamn.

Åland is situated in an archipelago, called the Åland Islands, at the entrance to the Gulf of Bothnia in the Baltic Sea. It comprises Fasta Åland, on which 90% of the population resides, and about 6,500 skerries and islands to its east, of which about 60–80 are inhabited. Fasta Åland is separated from the coast of Roslagen in Sweden by of open water to the west. In the east, the Åland archipelago is contiguous with the Finnish archipelago. Åland's only land border is located on the uninhabited skerry of Märket, which it shares with Sweden. From Mariehamn, there is a ferry distance of about to Turku, a coastal city of mainland Finland, and also to Stockholm, the capital of Sweden.

Åland's autonomous status means that those provincial powers normally exercised by representatives of the central Finnish Government are largely exercised by its own government. The current demilitarised, neutral position of Åland dates back to the Paris Peace Treaty after the Åland War in the 1850s.

Autonomy

The dispute over Åland's status led to the League of Nations affirming its autonomous status in 1921. This autonomy was reaffirmed in the treaty admitting Finland to the European Union. By law, Åland is politically neutral and entirely demilitarised. Consequently, its residents are exempt from conscription into the Finnish Defence Forces.

The Parliament of Finland initially granted Åland extensive autonomy through the Act on the Autonomy of Åland in 1920. This act was subsequently updated with new versions in 1951 and 1991. The constitution of Finland refers to this act, establishing it as the basis for Åland's specific constitutional framework. The Act also mandates that Åland remains exclusively Swedish-speaking.

Åland held a separate referendum on joining the European Union on 20 November 1994 (after the mainland Finland referendum on 16 October), as it constituted a distinct customs jurisdiction. Membership was approved by 73.64% of voters.Åland-Inseln (Finnland), 20. November 1994 : Beitritt zur EU
Direct Democracy Finland's accession treaty includes a specific protocol for Åland. This protocol ensures that EU law does not override existing restrictions on non-residents (individuals without Ålandic home region rights, ) acquiring or holding real property, or providing certain services within Åland.

Etymology

Åland's hypothetical name in the Proto-Norse language was . The Proto-Germanic root is related to the Latin word for water, . In Swedish, the name evolved from to , meaning "river land"—despite rivers not being a notable feature of the archipelago.

The Finnish and Estonian names for the region, and (meaning "perch land," from Finnish , a type of fish), are believed to preserve an alternative version of the old name.

Several theories exist regarding the origin of the Finnish name . Some suggest it is a Finnish adaptation of the Swedish name Åland, others that it is the original form from which Åland developed, and some that it emerged independently.Huldén, Lars (2001). ''Finlandssvenska bebyggelsenamn''. Svenska litteratursällskapet i Finland. .

The official name, , means "the Region of Åland." The word is a cognate of the English "landscape."

History

People from the Comb Ceramic culture began settling the Åland Islands around 7000 years ago, after the land started rising from the sea following the last Ice Age. Åland became a meeting point for two Neolithic cultures: the Comb Ceramic culture and the later Pit–Comb Ware culture, which spread from the west.

During the Stone Age and Bronze Age, people lived by hunting seals and birds, fishing, and gathering plants. Farming also began early. From the Iron Age, six hillforts remain on Åland. More than 380 burial sites from the Viking Age have been documented.

Construction of Kastelholm Castle began in the 1380s. In 1505, Danish naval officer Søren Norby captured it during a raid. The Kastelholm witch trials were held there in 1665 and 1668.

The coat of arms of Åland was originally meant for the Swedish island of Öland in 1560 but was assigned to Åland by mistake. It shows a golden red deer (not native to Åland) on a blue field. Traditionally, it is topped with a comital coronet from the older Swedish heraldic style.

In 1809, Sweden ceded Åland and Finland to the Russian Empire under the Treaty of Fredrikshamn. The islands became part of the Grand Duchy of Finland, which existed until 1917. Sweden had hoped Åland would remain unfortified, but no such clause was included.

In 1832, Russia began building the fortress of Bomarsund on Åland. During the Crimean War in 1854, British and French forces captured and destroyed it. The Treaty of Paris (1856) then demilitarised the archipelago. Russia later remilitarised Åland during World War I to guard against a German invasion.

In 1918, during the Finnish Civil War, Swedish troops landed on Åland as a peacekeeping force between Russian soldiers and Finnish White and Red forces. Soon after, German troops occupied the islands at the request of the Finnish White Senate. The only major battle was the near the village of Godby in Finström.

After 1917, Ålanders campaigned to join Sweden. In 1919, a petition signed by 96.4% of voters supported leaving Finland and uniting with Sweden. This was partly due to anti-Swedish policies in Finland and growing Finnish nationalism, driven by the country’s struggle against Russification. The long-standing conflict between Finland’s Swedish- and Finnish-speaking communities added to Ålanders’ concerns.

Finland rejected the petition but offered Åland autonomy. Ålanders refused, and the case went to the League of Nations in 1921. The League ruled that Finland would keep sovereignty but must give Åland political autonomy. A key diplomat behind the decision was Nitobe Inazō, an Under-Secretary General of the League and director of the International Committee on Intellectual Cooperation.

The Åland convention of 20 October 1921, signed by Sweden, Finland, and several European countries, was the League’s first major international agreement. It guaranteed Ålanders’ rights to their language, culture, and traditions, and declared Åland a neutral and demilitarised zone.

Åland’s Regional Assembly held its first session in Mariehamn on 9 June 1922. That day is now celebrated as Self-Government Day of Åland.

Thanks to its neutral status, Åland’s merchant fleet could sail for both the Allies and Nazi Germany during World War II. Ships were generally not attacked, as their destinations and cargoes were often unknown.

In 2006, Finland marked 150 years of Åland’s demilitarisation by issuing a €5 commemorative coin. The obverse shows a pine tree, common in Åland, while the reverse depicts a boat’s stern and rudder with a dove on the tiller—symbolising 150 years of peace.

Politics

Self-government

Åland's political system is based on the Act on the Autonomy of Åland and related international agreements. These guarantee Åland wide-ranging self-rule, while Finland retains ultimate sovereignty. The Government of Åland () is responsible to the Parliament of Åland () under a parliamentary system. As Åland's autonomy predates Finland's current regional system, it also performs many functions handled by regional councils in mainland Finland.

Elections and parties

Åland holds one seat in the Parliament of Finland. Its political system operates separately from mainland Finland's and includes distinct parties such as the Future of Åland (), which advocates full independence.

Public services and symbols

Åland maintains its own flag and operates its postal service through Åland Post since 1984. Åland Post is part of the Small European Postal Administration Cooperation network.

The region also has its own police force and is an associate member of the Nordic Council. Åland also uses distinct call sign prefixes for amateur radio (e.g., OH0).

Civil rights

Homeschooling is permitted in Åland, attracting families from Sweden, where stricter regulations apply.

Authorities planned to introduce internet voting for overseas voters in the 2019 parliamentary election, with broader use considered for 2023. The project was later abandoned due to security concerns.

European Union

Åland held a separate referendum on European Union membership on 20 November 1994. With majority support, it joined the EU alongside Finland in 1995. The Åland Protocol defines a special relationship, granting exceptions for land ownership, local business laws, and tax regulations. Åland is treated as a third-country territory for taxation, allowing duty-free sales on ferries between Åland, Finland, and Sweden.

Administration

Governor and state office

The State Department of Åland represents Finland's national government in the region and manages tasks that in mainland Finland are handled by regional agencies. Before 2010, these duties belonged to the Åland State Provincial Office.

The Governor is appointed by the President of Finland after consulting the Lagting Speaker. If no agreement is reached, the Lagting proposes five candidates for the President to choose from.

Municipalities

Åland comprises 16 municipalities, with over 40% of residents concentrated in the capital Mariehamn.

* Mariehamn, population: 11,786 ▼ (2023)
* Jomala, population: 5,743 ▲ (2023)
* Finström, population: 2,670 ▲ (2023)
* Lemland, population: 2,102 ▲ (2023)
* Saltvik, population: 1,800 ▼ (2023)
* Hammarland, population: 1,612 ▲ (2023)
* Sund, population: 1,013 ▼ (2023)
* Eckerö, population: 942 ▼ (2023)
* Föglö, population: 507 ▼ (2023)
* Geta, population: 505 ▼ (2023)
* Vårdö, population: 450 ▼ (2023)
* Brändö, population: 442 ▼ (2023)
* Lumparland, population: 386 ▼ (2023)
* Kumlinge, population: 305 ▼ (2023)
* Kökar, population: 223 ▼ (2023)
* Sottunga, population: 102 ▼ (2023)

2023 population statistics. Arrows denote demographic trends since last census.

Geography

Åland occupies a strategic position at the entrance to the port of Stockholm, near the Gulf of Bothnia and close to the Gulf of Finland.

The Åland archipelago consists of nearly 300 habitable islands, of which about 60 to 80 are inhabited. The rest—more than 6,000—are small skerries and bare rocks. The archipelago continues eastward into the Åboland region, part of the Archipelago Sea off Finland’s southwest coast. West of Åland lies the Sea of Åland; to the north is the Bothnian Sea.

The terrain is mostly rocky, with thin soil shaped by glacial activity at the end of the last ice age. Meadows and pastures host many insects, including the Glanville fritillary butterfly.

The total land area of Åland is . About 90% of the population lives on Fasta Åland, the largest island and location of the capital Mariehamn. Its area is estimated at between and , depending on definition. Some sources list over . The island contains several harbours.

During the Åland Islands dispute, Swedish and Finnish maps portrayed the region differently. The Swedish maps focused on the main island and downplayed surrounding skerries, making Åland appear closer to Sweden. Finnish maps emphasized continuity with the Finnish archipelago by showing more small islands and inflating their size. This influenced the popular figure of “over 6,000” skerries, widely repeated since the arbitration.

Some wildlife, such as elk and other deer species, were introduced in the 20th century and are not native to the islands.

Climate

Åland has a humid continental climate (), strongly influenced by its maritime setting. Summers are cooler than on the mainland of Sweden and Finland, while winters are only slightly milder than in adjacent parts of Finland.

Economy

Overview

Åland’s economy relies heavily on shipping, trade, and tourism. Shipping makes up about 40% of the economy, with several international shipping companies based in Åland. Outside of shipping, most businesses are small, often with fewer than ten employees. Farming and fishing are also important and support a local food industry. A few technology firms contribute to economic growth.

Infrastructure and transport

Wind power is a growing sector, with plans to reverse the direction of energy transmission to the mainland in the future. In December 2011, wind energy supplied 31.5% of Åland’s electricity needs.

Major ports include the Western Harbour in Mariehamn, Berghamn in the west, and Långnäs on the eastern shore of the main island. Åland’s road network includes four highways: Highway 1 to Eckerö, Highway 2 to Sund, Highway 3 to Lumparland, and Highway 4 to Geta.

Mariehamn was once a hub for the last large commercial sailing ships. These ships, owned by Åland shipowner Gustaf Erikson, carried wheat from Australia to Britain until 1947. After each trip, they returned to Mariehamn to rest and prepare for the next voyage. The ''Pommern'', now a museum ship in Mariehamn, was one of these vessels.

Fiscal and tax system

When the EU banned duty-free sales on ferries within the union, Finland secured a special exception for Åland. Åland is outside the EU VAT area, which allows tax-free sales on ferries that stop at Mariehamn or Långnäs and at the airport. As a result, Åland is treated as a separate tax zone, and customs duties apply to goods entering the islands. Åland receives about two million visitors each year, although most stay only a few hours during ferry stopovers or transfers.

Taxes, fees, and duties are collected in Åland by the Finnish government. In return, the national government allocates funds to the Åland Parliament. This amount is set at 0.5% of total state revenue (excluding loans). If Åland contributes more than 0.5%, the surplus is returned to Åland as "diligence money". In 2010, Åland residents paid 0.7% of all taxes in Finland.

Employment and workforce

As of January 2025, Åland’s unemployment rate was 5.4%. The employment rate was 79.8% in 2011 and 81.4% in 2024.

Key industries and enterprises

The euro is the official currency, but many businesses also accept the Swedish krona. In 2006, Eurostat ranked Åland the 20th wealthiest of the EU's 268 regions and the wealthiest in Finland, with GDP per person 47% above the EU average.

Bank of Åland is headquartered in Mariehamn. The government also owns Paf, a gambling operator based in the capital.

Economic impact of COVID-19

The COVID-19 pandemic caused a sharper economic decline in Åland than in mainland Finland or Sweden. Since then, Åland’s economy has gradually recovered.

Demographics

Swedish is the sole official language of Åland and was spoken as a first language by 86% of the population in 2021. Fewer than 5% spoke Finnish. In publicly funded schools, the language of instruction is Swedish. In the rest of Finland, bilingual municipalities provide instruction in both Finnish and Swedish. For details on the local dialect, see Åland Swedish.

The ethnic classification of Ålanders remains a subject of debate. They are sometimes described as ethnic Swedes or as part of the Swedish-speaking population of Finland. Linguistically, the Åland dialect is closer to the Uppland dialects of eastern Sweden than to mainland Finland Swedish, though this distinction is not universally agreed upon.

Right of domicile () is required to vote in elections to the Parliament of Åland, stand as a candidate, or own real estate in rural areas.

In 2021, 17.3% of residents had a foreign background—the highest proportion of any region in Finland. Most came from Sweden (7% of Åland's total population), followed by Romania and Latvia.

Age structure

Education

In 2010, Åland had 22 primary schools. Twelve were lower-level schools (grades 1–6), eight included both lower and upper secondary education, and two were upper secondary schools only.

Post-primary education is provided by two main institutions: Ålands lyceum, a traditional academic upper secondary school (gymnasium), and the Åland Vocational School, which offers a dual program combining general and vocational studies. According to 2018 statistics from the Finnish education authority, Ålands lyceum had 432 students enrolled.

Other institutions include and several additional primary and secondary schools across the islands.

Higher education is offered by the Åland University of Applied Sciences, which enrolls around 600 students. Fields of study include maritime studies, mechanical and electrical engineering, information technology, business, hospitality, and health care. All maritime education is coordinated through the Alandica Shipping Academy.

The education system in Åland follows the Finnish and broader Nordic model. The official language of instruction is Swedish. Finnish has traditionally been compulsory in upper secondary schools but optional at the primary level. As of 2006, about 80% of primary students still chose to study Finnish. That year, a proposal was made to remove Finnish as a compulsory subject in upper secondary schools.

Religion

As of 2020, 70.5% of Åland's population were members of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland.

Åland has some of the oldest churches in Finland. St. Olaf's Church, Jomala, built in the late 13th century, is generally considered the oldest surviving church building in the country.

The largest medieval church in Åland is the Church of St. John the Baptist, Sund, located in Sund. Built shortly after St. Olaf’s, it remains one of the most significant historical churches in the region.

Culture

Literature

Writers from Åland include Anni Blomqvist, known for her five-volume series '', and Sally Salminen, whose 1936 novel '' Katrina'' received international recognition. Ulla-Lena Lundberg has also written about her native Kökar. Many of these works are set in Åland.

Cinema and television

The 2016 historical drama film '' Devil's Bride'', directed by Saara Cantell, is set in 17th-century Åland during the witch trials. The film received the Best Foreign Language Film Award at the 2017 Female Eye Film Festival in Toronto.

Another film set in Åland is the 2013 drama ''Disciple'', directed by . The film has been covered in Finnish-language media, including an archived feature from ''Uusi Suomi'' about Bengts's career path, and a DVD review in ''Elokuvauutiset''.

Sport

The Åland national football team competes in the biennial Island Games, which Åland hosted in 1991 and 2009. Åland also hosted the 1974 and 1977 editions of the Women's Nordic Football Championship. The Åland Football Association organizes football activities, including the Åland Cup for local clubs.

The main football clubs are Åland United (women's) and IFK Mariehamn (men's), the latter of which plays in the Veikkausliiga, Finland's top league. Both teams play at the Wiklöf Holding Arena in Mariehamn.

Other clubs include:
* FC Åland
* IF Finströms Kamraterna
* IF Fram
* Lemlands IF

Åland hosted the following editions of the women's curling tournament Paf Masters in Eckerö:
* 2017 Paf Masters Tour
* 2018 Paf Masters Tour

The Åland Stags is the only rugby union club on the islands. Disc golf is also widely played.

Heraldry

The coat of arms of Åland shows a golden red deer on a blue field, traditionally topped with a comital coronet. The same arms were mistakenly granted to the Swedish province of Öland in 1560.

Notable people

Arts, literature, and public life

* Sara Holmsten (1713–1795), writer
* Frans Peter von Knorring (1792–1875), priest and social reformer
* Georg August Wallin (1811–1852), explorer and orientalist
* Karl Emanuel Jansson (1846–1874), painter
* Robert Mattson (1851–1935), shipowner and businessman
* Gustaf Erikson (1872–1947), shipowner known for his windjammer fleet
* Joel Pettersson (1892–1937), painter and author
* Atos Wirtanen (1906–1979), politician and journalist
* Sally Salminen (1906–1976), author; three-time Nobel Prize in Literature nominee
* Ture Bengtz (1907–1973), Finnish-American Expressionist artist
* Ville Salminen (1908–1992), film actor and director
* Anni Blomqvist (1909–1990), novelist
* Jaakko Suolahti (1918–1987), classical scholar
* Pehr Henrik Nordgren (1944–2008), composer
* Ulla-Lena Lundberg (born 1947), author
* Peter Lindbäck (born 1955), Governor of Åland (1999–present)
* Stefan Lindfors (born 1962), industrial designer and sculptor
* Veronica Thörnroos (born 1962), politician; head of government since 2019
* Jeremy Duns (born 1973), British author of spy fiction

Sport

* Kaarlo Mäkinen (1892–1980), Olympic freestyle wrestler (1924, 1928)
* Frej Liewendahl (1902–1966), Olympic gold medallist in track and field (1924)
* Johan Hellström (1907–1989), Olympic boxer (1928)
* Daniel Sjölund (born 1983), footballer (380 club and 37 national appearances)
* Annica Sjölund (born 1985), footballer (67 national appearances)
* Robert Helenius (born 1984), professional heavyweight boxer
* Adelina Engman (born 1994), footballer (84 national appearances)

See also

* Åland's Autonomy Day
* Flag of Åland
* Provincial Governors of Finland
* Public holidays in Åland
* Bibliography of the Åland Islands
* Index of Åland-related articles
* Outline of the Åland Islands

References

Further reading

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External links

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Government of Åland

B7 Baltic Islands Network

The example of Åland, autonomy as a minor protector
The Åland example: autonomy protects a minority
Ålandstidningen
(local newspaper)

{{DEFAULTSORT:Aland

Geography of Scandinavia
Finnish islands in the Baltic
Historical provinces of Finland
Provinces of Finland (1917–1997)
Provinces of Finland (1997–2009)
Members of the Nordic Council
NUTS 1 statistical regions of the European Union
NUTS 2 statistical regions of the European Union
States and territories established in 1920
Autonomous regions
Countries and territories where Swedish is an official language
Swedish-speaking population of Finland
Demilitarized zones
1920 establishments in Europe
Former disputed islands