José Antonio Delgado
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José Antonio Delgado Sucre (13 May 1965 – 22 July 2006) was the first
Venezuela Venezuela, officially the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela, is a country on the northern coast of South America, consisting of a continental landmass and many Federal Dependencies of Venezuela, islands and islets in the Caribbean Sea. It com ...
n
mountaineer Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports ...
to reach the summit of five
eight-thousander The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s and one of the most experienced climbers in Latin America. Known as ''el indio'' ("The Indian", for his strength), Delgado led the first Venezuelan Everest expedition in 2001. On May 23 of that year, he and Marcus Tobía were the only members of the expedition to summit Everest. He held several records in mountaineering, such as the first
paragliding Paragliding is the recreational and competitive adventure sport of flying paragliders: lightweight, free-flying, foot-launched glider aircraft with no rigid primary structure. The pilot sits in a harness or in a cocoon-like 'pod' suspended be ...
flight from Pico Humboldt, Pico Bolívar, and
Roraima Roraima ( ) is one of the 26 states of Brazil. Located in the country's North Region, it is the northernmost and most geographically and logistically isolated state in Brazil. It is bordered by the state of Pará to the southeast, Amazonas t ...
. Delgado also made the fastest summit for a Venezuelan to the Aconcagua (from the ''Puente del Inca'' in 34 hours) and Huascarán (from the base in 14 hours).


Biography

Jose Antonio Delgado Sucre was born in
Caracas Caracas ( , ), officially Santiago de León de Caracas (CCS), is the capital and largest city of Venezuela, and the center of the Metropolitan Region of Caracas (or Greater Caracas). Caracas is located along the Guaire River in the northern p ...
,
Venezuela Venezuela, officially the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela, is a country on the northern coast of South America, consisting of a continental landmass and many Federal Dependencies of Venezuela, islands and islets in the Caribbean Sea. It com ...
. He studied
mechanical engineering Mechanical engineering is the study of physical machines and mechanism (engineering), mechanisms that may involve force and movement. It is an engineering branch that combines engineering physics and engineering mathematics, mathematics principl ...
at the Universidad Simón Bolívar and married Frida Ayala with whom he had two children.


Death and legacy

Delgado was the leader of the Venezuelan
Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
expedition. He and fellow climber Edgar Guariguata flew out to
Pakistan Pakistan, officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of over 241.5 million, having the Islam by country# ...
in June 2006. Due to illness Guariguata remained at
base camp Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sp ...
while Delgado went on. After he reached the summit of Nanga Parbat on July 11, a snow storm surprised him on his descent. Delgado managed to reach camp four. After being without food or water for two days he attempted to make it to camp three. No further communications were received by base camp, so the Pakistani authorities were alerted. A group of six
Pakistan Pakistan, officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of over 241.5 million, having the Islam by country# ...
i mountaineers, consisting of Qurban Muhammad (Shimshal), Ghulam Rasool, Muhammad, Muhammad Ibrahim, Ghulam Muhammad, and Muhammad Ali, climbed the mountain despite the rough weather. On July 22, they found Delgado's body at an altitude of 7100m between camp three and four in the open near his tent. During the expedition to Nanga Parbat, he was the subject of a pilot for a television series about mountaineering. Explorart Films, the production company, later developed the project into a feature documentary film, released in South America in January 2008. The film follows Jose Antonio's climbing career and includes footage of several of his expeditions including the Nanga Parbat climb and the rescue attempts that followed the accident. Jose Antonio and his wife Frida were co-producers of the film.


Awards

He was awarded the ''Orden al Mérito Deportivo'' and the ''Orden Vicente Emilio Sojo'' in 2001 by the Venezuelan government. He was a founding member of the ''Proyecto Cumbre'' (1997) and the head of the ''Centro Excursionista Loyola'' from 1982 to 1983.Proyecto Cumbre
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Eight-thousanders

*
Cho Oyu Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
, 8153 m, Nepal-China, 1994 (first Venezuelan) *
Shishapangma Shishapangma, or Shishasbangma or Xixiabangma ( zh, s=希夏邦马, p=Xī xià bāng mǎ), is the 14th-highest mountain in the world, at above sea level. The lowest 8,000 metre peak, it is located entirely within Tibet. Name Geologist Toni H ...
8008 m, China, 1998 (first Venezuelan) *
Gasherbrum II Gasherbrum II (; ; ); surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan and ...
, 8035 m, Pakistan-China, 2000 (first Venezuelan) *
Everest Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
, 8848 m, Nepal-China, 2001 *
Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
, 8125 m, Pakistan, 2006 (first Venezuelan)


Mountain summits

*
Pico Humboldt Pico Humboldt is Venezuela's second highest peak, at 4,925 metres above sea level. It is located in the Sierra Nevada de Merida, in the Venezuelan Andes of ( Mérida State). The peak, its sister peak Pico Bonpland, and the surrounding páramos ...
, 4942 m, Venezuela, 1982 *
Pico Bolívar Pico Bolívar is the highest mountain in Venezuela, at 4,978 metres (16,332 ft). Located in Mérida State. It can be reached only by walking; the Mérida cable car, which was the highest and longest cable car in the world when it was built ...
, 5007 m, Venezuela, 1983 *
Chopicalqui Chopicalqui or Chopicallqui (possibly from Huaylas Quechua ''Chawpi'' "center" ''kallki'' "ravine")Leonel Alexander Menacho López, Yachakuqkunapa Shimi Qullqa, Anqash Qhichwa Shimichaw (Ministerio de Educación), Wordbook Ancash Quechua-Spanis ...
, 6320 m, Peru, 1985 *
Artesonraju Artesonraju is a Pyramidal peak, pyramidal mountain peak located near the city of Caraz in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range in the Peruvian Andes. It is located at the Peruvian province of Huaylas Province, Huaylas and its slopes are within ...
, 6010 m, Peru, 1985 * Ritacuba Blanco, 5300 m, Colombia, 1986 *
Artesonraju Artesonraju is a Pyramidal peak, pyramidal mountain peak located near the city of Caraz in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range in the Peruvian Andes. It is located at the Peruvian province of Huaylas Province, Huaylas and its slopes are within ...
, 6010 m, Peru, 1986 * Ranrapalca, 6162 m, Peru, 1986 *
Huascarán Huascarán (), ( Quechua: Waskaran), Nevado Huascarán or Mataraju is a mountain located in Yungay Province, Department of Ancash, Peru. It is situated in the Cordillera Blanca range of the western Andes. The southern summit of Huascarán (Huasc ...
Sur, 6768 m, Peru, 1986 * Ritacuba Negro, 5200 m, Colombia, 1987 *
Huayna Potosí Huayna Potosí is a mountain in Bolivia, located near El Alto and about 25 km north of La Paz in the Cordillera Real (Bolivia), Cordillera Real. Huayna Potosí is the closest high mountain to La Paz. Surrounded by high mountains, it is ...
Sur, 6050 m, Bolivia, 1987 *
Illimani Illimani () is the highest mountain in the Cordillera Real (part of the Cordillera Oriental, a subrange of the Andes) of western Bolivia. It lies near the cities of El Alto and La Paz at the eastern edge of the Altiplano. It is the second high ...
Central, 6438 m, Bolivia, 1987 * The
Maroon Bells The Maroon Bells are two peaks in the Elk Mountains, Maroon Peak and North Maroon Peak, separated by about half a kilometer (0.3 miles). The mountains are on the border between Pitkin County and Gunnison County, Colorado, United States, about ...
, USA, 1990 ** Maroon Peak 4316 m ** North Maroon Peak 4272 m * Long Peak, 4345 m, USA, 1990 *
Pikes Peak Pikes Peak is the List of mountain ranges of Colorado#Mountain ranges, highest summit of the southern Front Range of the Rocky Mountains in North America. The Ultra-prominent peak, ultra-prominent fourteener is located in Pike National Forest, ...
, 4302 m, USA, 1990 * Popocatepetl, 5452 m, Mexico, 1991 *
Iztaccíhuatl Iztaccíhuatl or Ixtaccíhuatl (both forms also spelled without the accent) ( or, as spelled with the x, ) is a dormant volcanic mountain in Mexico located on the border between the State of Mexico and Puebla within Izta-Popo Zoquiapan National ...
, 5286 m, Mexico, 1991 *
Pico de Orizaba Citlaltépetl (from Nahuan languages, Náhuatl = star, and = mountain), otherwise known as Pico de Orizaba, is an active volcano, the highest mountain in Mexico and Table of the highest major summits of North America, third highest in North Ame ...
Citlaltépetl, 5636 m, Mexico, 1991 *
Marmolejo Volcán Marmolejo is a high Pleistocene stratovolcano in the Andes on the border between Argentina and Chile. It is located NNE of the active San José volcano, and is the southernmost -plus peak in the world. The Argentine portion is withi ...
, 6100 m, Chile-Argentina, 1991 * Volcán San Pedro, 5800 m, Chile-Argentina, 1991 *
Aconcagua Aconcagua () is a mountain in the Principal Cordillera of the Andes mountain range, in Mendoza Province, Argentina. It is the highest mountain in the Americas, the highest outside Asia, and the highest in both the Western Hemisphere and the ...
, 7021 m, Argentina, 1991 *
Cotopaxi Cotopaxi () is an active stratovolcano in the Andes Mountains, located near Latacunga city of Cotopaxi Province, about south of Quito, and northeast of the city of Latacunga, Ecuador. It is the second highest summit in Ecuador (after Chim ...
, 6005 m, Ecuador, 1991 *
Chimborazo Chimborazo () is a stratovolcano situated in Ecuador in the Cordillera Occidental (Ecuador), Cordillera Occidental range of the Andes. Its last known Types of volcanic eruptions, eruption is believed to have occurred around AD 550. Although not ...
, 6310 m, Ecuador, 1991 * Cóncavo, 5200 m, Colombia, 1992 * Pan de Azúcar, 5180 m, Colombia, 1992 *
Illampu Illampu is the fourth highest mountain in Bolivia. It is located in the northern section of the Cordillera Real (Bolivia), Cordillera Real, part of the Andes, east of Lake Titicaca. It lies just north of the slightly higher Janq'u Uma, near the t ...
, 6362 m, Bolivia, 1992 *
Ama Dablam Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Eastern Himalayas range of Koshi Province, Nepal. The main peak is , the lower western peak is . Ama Dablam means "mother's necklace"; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (''ama'') protecting he ...
, 6812 m, Nepal, 1993 *
Adam's Peak Adam's Peak is a conical sacred mountain located in central Sri Lanka.Capper, Daniel (2022), ''Roaming Free Like a Deer: Buddhism and the Natural World,'' Cornell University Press. It is well known for the ''Sri Pada'' (; ), a rock formati ...
, 2233 m, Sri Lanka, 1994 * Stock Kangri, 6100, India, 1994 *
Pisco Pisco is a colorless or yellowish-to-amber-colored spirit produced in winemaking regions of Peru and Chile. Made by distilling fermented grape juice into a high-proof spirit, it was developed by 16th-century Spanish settlers as an alternativ ...
, 5300 m, Peru, 1996 *
Huascarán Huascarán (), ( Quechua: Waskaran), Nevado Huascarán or Mataraju is a mountain located in Yungay Province, Department of Ancash, Peru. It is situated in the Cordillera Blanca range of the western Andes. The southern summit of Huascarán (Huasc ...
Norte, 6654 m, Peru, 1996 * Cayambe, 5840 m, Ecuador, 1997 *
Denali Denali (), federally designated as Mount McKinley, is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the tallest mountain in the world from base to peak on land, measuring . On p. 20 of Helm ...
-McKinley, 6229 m, Alaska-USA, 1998 *
Muztagh Ata Muztagh Ata (meaning 'Ice Mountain Father' in English), formerly known as Mount Tagharma and Wi-tagh, is the second highest of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau, with an elevation of . It is sometimes regarded a ...
, 7546 m, China, 1999 *
Breithorn The Breithorn ( German for literally "broad horn"; 13,661 ft. or 4,160 m) is a mountain range of the Pennine Alps with its highest peak of the same name (but also called ''Breithorn (Western Summit)''), located on the border between Switze ...
, 4165 m, Switzerland-Italy, 1999 *
Ojos del Salado Nevado Ojos del Salado is a Dormant volcano, dormant complex volcano in the Andes on the Argentina–Chile border. It is the highest volcano on Earth and the highest peak in Chile. The upper reaches of Ojos del Salado consist of several overlapp ...
, 6908 m, Chile-Argentina, 2001 *
Aconcagua Aconcagua () is a mountain in the Principal Cordillera of the Andes mountain range, in Mendoza Province, Argentina. It is the highest mountain in the Americas, the highest outside Asia, and the highest in both the Western Hemisphere and the ...
, 6961 m, Argentina, 2001 *
Everest Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
, 8848 m, Nepal, 2001 *
Monte Bianco Mont Blanc (, ) is a mountain in the Alps, rising above sea level, located right at the Franco-Italian border. It is the highest mountain in Europe outside the Caucasus Mountains, the second-most prominent mountain in Europe (after Mount Elb ...
, 4810 m, Italy-France, 2001 * Tsacra Chico Norte, 5513 m, Peru, 2002 * Chapaev North (near Chapaev Peak), 6100 m, Kazakhstan, 2004 *
Khan Tengri Khan Tengri is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range in Central Asia. It is on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan tripoint, east of lake Issyk-Kul, Issyk Kul in Kyrgyzstan. Its geologic elevation is , but its glacial icecap rises to ...
, 7010 m, Kazakhstan, 2005 *
Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
8125 m, Pakistan, 2006


References


External links


The Venezuelan Nanga Parbat expedition website
. *http://www.ascenso.org.ve/
Proyecto Cumbre
*http://www.explorersweb.com/news.php?id=15130 *https://web.archive.org/web/20170707055836/http://nangaparbat2006.explorart.com/ *https://web.archive.org/web/20140517162639/http://masalladelacumbre.com/ {{DEFAULTSORT:Delgado, Jose Antonio 1965 births 2006 deaths People from Caracas Venezuelan mountain climbers Summiters of Mount Everest Mountaineering deaths Sport deaths in Pakistan Deaths on Nanga Parbat Simón Bolívar University (Venezuela) alumni