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Chaves (), officially the City of Chaves (), is a city and a
municipality A municipality is usually a single administrative division having municipal corporation, corporate status and powers of self-government or jurisdiction as granted by national and regional laws to which it is subordinate. The term ''municipality' ...
in the north of
Portugal Portugal, officially the Portuguese Republic, is a country on the Iberian Peninsula in Southwestern Europe. Featuring Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in continental Europe, Portugal borders Spain to its north and east, with which it share ...
. It is 10 km south of the Spanish border and 22 km south of Verín (Spain). The population of the entire municipality in 2011 was 41,243,Instituto Nacional de Estatística
/ref> in an area of 591.23 km2. The municipality is the second most populous of the district of
Vila Real Vila Real () is the capital and largest city of the Vila Real District, in the Norte, Portugal, North region, Portugal. It is also the seat of the Douro (intermunicipal community), Douro Intermunicipal communities of Portugal, intermunicipal comm ...
(the district capital,
Vila Real Vila Real () is the capital and largest city of the Vila Real District, in the Norte, Portugal, North region, Portugal. It is also the seat of the Douro (intermunicipal community), Douro Intermunicipal communities of Portugal, intermunicipal comm ...
, is 60 km south on the A24 motorway). With origins in the Roman
civitas In Ancient Rome, the Latin term (; plural ), according to Cicero in the time of the late Roman Republic, was the social body of the , or citizens, united by Roman law, law (). It is the law that binds them together, giving them responsibilitie ...
Aquæ Flaviæ, Chaves has developed into a regional center. The urban area or city proper has 17,535 residents (2001).


History

Artefacts discovered in the region of Chaves identify the earliest settlement of humans dating back to the
Paleolithic The Paleolithic or Palaeolithic ( years ago) ( ), also called the Old Stone Age (), is a period in human prehistory that is distinguished by the original development of stone tools, and which represents almost the entire period of human prehist ...
. Remnants discovered in Mairos, Pastoria and São Lourenço, those associated with transient proto-historic settlements and castros, show a human presence in the Alto Tâmega dating to the
Chalcolithic The Chalcolithic ( ) (also called the Copper Age and Eneolithic) was an archaeological period characterized by the increasing use of smelted copper. It followed the Neolithic and preceded the Bronze Age. It occurred at different periods in di ...
. The region has seen persistent human settlement since Roman legions conquered and occupied the fertile valley of the Tâmega River, constructing a nascent outpost and taking over the existing castros in the area. The settlement was located at the convergence of three important Roman roads: the Bracara Augusta, Asturica, and Lamecum that crossed the Roman Province of
Gallaecia Gallaecia, also known as Hispania Gallaecia, was the name of a Roman province in the north-west of Hispania, approximately present-day Galicia, northern Portugal, Asturias and Leon and the later Kingdom of Gallaecia. The Roman cities inclu ...
, linking Rome to the region's natural resources. It was a military centre known for its baths, which lasted until the 16th century. This civilization constructed protective walls to protect the local population; spanned the river with the bridge; promoted the baths (with its warm medicinal waters); exploited local mines and alluvial deposits and other natural resources. Its importance led to the urban nucleus being elevated to the status of ''municipality'' in 79 AD, during the reign of the first Flavian
Caesar Gaius Julius Caesar (12 or 13 July 100 BC – 15 March 44 BC) was a Roman general and statesman. A member of the First Triumvirate, Caesar led the Roman armies in the Gallic Wars before defeating his political rival Pompey in a civil war. He ...
, Titus Flavius Caesar Vespasianus Augustus. Its benefactor consequently influenced its toponymy, becoming known as
Aquae Flaviae Aquae Flaviae (or ''Aquæ Flaviæ'') is the ancient Ancient Rome, Roman city and Aquae Flaviae (titular see), former bishopric (now a Latin Catholic titular see) of Chaves, Portugal, Chaves, a Concelho, municipality in the Portugal, Portuguese Vil ...
. Artefacts from the area around the Matriz church indicate that Aquae Flaviae's centre was located in this place, in addition to an ancient headstone showing gladiatorial combat. Rome's hegemony lasted until the 3rd century, when, successively, the proto-Germanic tribes of the
Suebi file:1st century Germani.png, 300px, The approximate positions of some Germanic peoples reported by Graeco-Roman authors in the 1st century. Suebian peoples in red, and other Irminones in purple. The Suebi (also spelled Suavi, Suevi or Suebians ...
and
Visigoths The Visigoths (; ) were a Germanic people united under the rule of a king and living within the Roman Empire during late antiquity. The Visigoths first appeared in the Balkans, as a Roman-allied Barbarian kingdoms, barbarian military group unite ...
as well as the Alani colonized the imperial settlements of Chaves. Wars between Remismund and Frumar followed over their claims to the throne, which almost completely destroyed the village (it was settled in favour of Frumar, who imprisoned Idácio, the notable Bishop of
Aquae Flaviae Aquae Flaviae (or ''Aquæ Flaviæ'') is the ancient Ancient Rome, Roman city and Aquae Flaviae (titular see), former bishopric (now a Latin Catholic titular see) of Chaves, Portugal, Chaves, a Concelho, municipality in the Portugal, Portuguese Vil ...
). Ironically, the Romans were complicit in Aquae Flaviae's near destruction. Barbarian dominion lasted until the Moors invaded from North Africa, defeating the Visigoth King
Roderic Roderic (also spelled Ruderic, Roderik, Roderich, or Roderick; Spanish language, Spanish and , ; died 711) was the Visigoths, Visigothic king in Hispania between 710 and 711. He is well known as "the last king of the Goths". He is actually an ex ...
at the beginning of the 8th century. In course, the name of Aquae Flaviae began to disappear, being supplanted by the more Hispanic-sounding ''Aquae Calidae'' (). The area around Chaves surrendered to invading Islamic forces at around 714-716, forcing many resisting Christians to escape from Chaves into the mountains in the northwest. The city was conquered by
Alfonso I of Asturias Alfonso I of Asturias, called the Catholic (''el Católico''), ( – 757) was the third king of Asturias, reigning from 739 to his death in 757. His reign saw an extension of the Christian domain of Asturias, reconquering Galicia and León. ...
in 773, alongside
Braga Braga (; ) is a cities of Portugal, city and a Municipalities of Portugal, municipality, capital of the northwestern Portugal, Portuguese Braga (district), district of Braga and of the historical and cultural Minho Province. Braga Municipality ...
,
Porto Porto (), also known in English language, English as Oporto, is the List of cities in Portugal, second largest city in Portugal, after Lisbon. It is the capital of the Porto District and one of the Iberian Peninsula's major urban areas. Porto c ...
and
Lamego Lamego (; ) is a city and municipality in the Viseu District, in the Norte Region, Portugal, Norte Region of the Douro Subregion, Douro in northern Portugal. Located on the shores of the Balsemão River, the municipality has a population of 26,691 ...
, and repopulated in 868 by Alfonso III of Asturias. Battles between the Christians and Muslim forces then continued until the 11th century, when
Alfonso V of León Alfonso V (c. 9947 August 1028), called the Noble, was King of León from 999 to 1028. Like other kings of León, he used the title emperor () to assert his standing among the Christian rulers of Spain. He succeeded his father, Bermudo II, in 9 ...
permanently reconquered Coimbra, establishing a firm buffer-zone to the south. He reconstructed, settled and encircled the settlement of Chaves with walls, in addition to establishing a Jewish quarter in the community. It was in the reign of
Afonso I of Portugal Dom Afonso IOr also ''Affonso'' (Archaic Portuguese-Galician) or ''Alphonso'' (Portuguese-Galician languages, Portuguese-Galician) or ''Alphonsus'' (Latin version), sometimes rendered in English as ''Alphonzo'' or ''Alphonse'', depending on th ...
that it was taken from León and firmly integrated into the
Kingdom of Portugal The Kingdom of Portugal was a Portuguese monarchy, monarchy in the western Iberian Peninsula and the predecessor of the modern Portuguese Republic. Existing to various extents between 1139 and 1910, it was also known as the Kingdom of Portugal a ...
domain (1160). Owing to its geographic location (on Portugal's northern frontier with Spain), King Denis, ordered the construction of a castle to protect the kingdom's border. During the reign of Afonso II, when the king continued to provoke the ire of the
Papacy The pope is the bishop of Rome and the Head of the Church#Catholic Church, visible head of the worldwide Catholic Church. He is also known as the supreme pontiff, Roman pontiff, or sovereign pontiff. From the 8th century until 1870, the po ...
, Portuguese knights attacked the Galician tenancy of his half-brother Martin Sanches (who lived in the kingdom of
Alfonso IX of León Alfonso IX (15 August 117123 or 24 September 1230) was King of León from the death of his father Ferdinand II in 1188 until his own death. He took steps towards modernizing and democratizing his dominion and founded the University of Salaman ...
), possibly since the Bishop of Braga had estates in that region. Provoking Sanches to invade northern Portugal.CUP (1970), p.117 The Leonese fought battles in Barcelos,
Braga Braga (; ) is a cities of Portugal, city and a Municipalities of Portugal, municipality, capital of the northwestern Portugal, Portuguese Braga (district), district of Braga and of the historical and cultural Minho Province. Braga Municipality ...
and
Guimarães Guimarães () is a city and municipality located in northern Portugal, in the district of Braga. Its historic town centre has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001, in recognition for being an "exceptionally well-preserved ...
, where they defeated Portuguese forces, before retiring to Galicia with their spoils. At the same time,
Alfonso IX of León Alfonso IX (15 August 117123 or 24 September 1230) was King of León from the death of his father Ferdinand II in 1188 until his own death. He took steps towards modernizing and democratizing his dominion and founded the University of Salaman ...
seized Chaves, which remained in Leonese hands until the reign of King Sancho II, when he and Ferdinand III met in 1230/1231.CUP (1970), p.122 This was likely a self-serving decision on Fernando's part, as he was fearful that Leonese barons would support Sancho against him. Alfonso IX continued to occupy Chaves as a method of ensuring his wife,
Teresa Teresa (also Theresa, Therese; ) is a feminine given name. It originates in the Iberian Peninsula in late antiquity. Its derivation is uncertain, it may be derived from Classical Greek, Greek θερίζω (''therízō'') "to harvest or rea ...
, would be able to enjoy her properties in Portugal. During the Portuguese Interregnum, the nobility of Chaves supported
Beatrice of Portugal Beatrice (, ; 7–13 February 1373 – ) was the only surviving legitimate child of King Ferdinand I of Portugal and his wife, Leonor Teles. She became Queen consort of Castile by marriage to King John I of Castile. Following her father's d ...
, as she was heir presumptive to King Ferdinand I, since he left no male heirs. The potential loss of independence of Portugal, through her marriage to
John I of Castile John I (; 24 August 1358 – 9 October 1390) was King of Castile and List of Leonese monarchs, León from 1379 until 1390. He was the son of Henry II of Castile, Henry II and of his wife Juana Manuel of Castile. John ascended to the throne in 137 ...
resulted in the rebellion by the Master of the
Order of Aviz The Military Order of Aviz (), known previously to 1910 as the Royal Military Order of Saint Benedict of Aviz (), and before 1789 as the Knights of Saint Benedict of Aviz () or ''Friars of Santa Maria of Évora'', is one of the four former ancien ...
(later King
John I of Portugal John I ( WP:IPA for Portuguese, �uˈɐ̃w̃ 11 April 1357 – 14 August 1433), also called John of Aviz, was King of Portugal from 1385 until his death in 1433. He is recognized chiefly for his role in Portugal's victory in 1383–85 crisi ...
), who would garner the support of the
Portuguese Cortes In the medieval Kingdom of Portugal, the Cortes was an assembly of representatives of the estates of the realm – the nobility, clergy and bourgeoisie. It was called and dismissed by the King of Portugal at will, at a place of his choosing.O' ...
, thus laying the seeds for his triumph at the Battle of Aljubarrota.CUP (1970), p.179 Yet, many nobles refused to break their oaths of fealty to Beatrice (including in Chaves), necessitating John's travel to Porto in force and scaring the nobles of Chaves and Bragança into capitulating. The remnants of the Roman baths, and the houses used to assist the invalid, were demolished by the Count of Mesquitella at the end of the 17th century, in order to reinforce the defense of Chaves. French forces invaded and attacked in 1807, during the Siege of Chaves, part of the
Peninsular War The Peninsular War (1808–1814) was fought in the Iberian Peninsula by Kingdom of Portugal, Portugal, Spain and the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, United Kingdom against the invading and occupying forces of the First French ...
s. On 7 March 1808, Soult's forces invaded northern Portugal to remove British forces from Iberia. Brigadier Francisco Silveira was charged with the defense of Chaves, but his 6000 men were unable to support its defense, and quickly abandoned the castle.Robert Southey (1827), p.174 An attempt to defend Chaves by Francisco Pizarro was futile, and the city surrendered to French forces shortly after the engagement. With too many troops to imprison Soult released many under oath, in order to continue the attack on the main forces who had retreated to the south. But Francisco Silveira did not quit, and as the main French went on to defeat the Anglo-Portuguese alliance at the First Battle of Porto, Silveira retook Chaves. On 20 September 1837, the Convention of Chaves, which followed the Battle of Ruivães and which ended Chartist or Marshall's Revolt, was signed in Chaves. Chaves was also a site of various religious apparitions, during the decade of 1830, eventually resulting in the construction of the ''Santuário da Nossa Senhora Aparecida'' (). On 8 July 1912, forces loyal to the former monarchy, under the command of Henrique Paiva Couceiro, confronted government forces, commanded by Colonel Ribeiro de Carvalho, during the second monarchist incursion. On 12 March 1929, the town of Chaves was elevated to the category of city.


Geography


Physical geography

Chaves is in the extreme north of Portugal, bounded on the north by Galicia (Spain), on the east by the municipalities of Vinhais and
Valpaços Valpaços () is a municipality in northern Portugal. The population in 2011 was 16,882, in an area of 548.74 km2. History The first documents that cite Valpaços date back to the 12th century. Its toponymy evolved from pre-national settlem ...
, on the south by the municipality of Vila Pouca de Aguiar and on the west by the municipalities of Montalegre and Boticas. Chaves is one of the six municipalities of the
Alto Tâmega The Comunidade Intermunicipal do Alto Tâmega () is an administrative division in northern Portugal Portugal, officially the Portuguese Republic, is a country on the Iberian Peninsula in Southwestern Europe. Featuring Cabo da Roca, the west ...
, situated in the district of Vila Real, strategically positioned in the northwest of the Iberian peninsula and accessed by important international highways. The region is dominated by the
Quaternary The Quaternary ( ) is the current and most recent of the three periods of the Cenozoic Era in the geologic time scale of the International Commission on Stratigraphy (ICS), as well as the current and most recent of the twelve periods of the ...
Chaves sedimentary basin, a
graben In geology, a graben () is a depression (geology), depressed block of the Crust (geology), crust of a planet or moon, bordered by parallel normal faults. Etymology ''Graben'' is a loan word from German language, German, meaning 'ditch' or 't ...
aligned on a north-northeast to south-southwest orientation bounded by the Hercynian massif and
metamorphic Metamorphic rocks arise from the transformation of existing rock to new types of rock in a process called metamorphism. The original rock (protolith) is subjected to temperatures greater than and, often, elevated pressure of or more, causi ...
schistose formations.Santos et al. (1997), p.87 Mixed with the schistose complex, there are bands of graphitic
slate Slate is a fine-grained, foliated, homogeneous, metamorphic rock derived from an original shale-type sedimentary rock composed of clay or volcanic ash through low-grade, regional metamorphism. It is the finest-grained foliated metamorphic ro ...
s, mainly in the southern part of the urbanized area of Chaves and south-east of Faiões. To the north, and into Galicia, the basin extends into the depression of the Verin Basin. One of the oldest formations in the region, it dates back to the
Ordovician The Ordovician ( ) is a geologic period and System (geology), system, the second of six periods of the Paleozoic Era (geology), Era, and the second of twelve periods of the Phanerozoic Eon (geology), Eon. The Ordovician spans 41.6 million years f ...
period ( between 488.3±1.7 to 443.7±1.5 million years ago), is composed of
schist Schist ( ) is a medium-grained metamorphic rock generally derived from fine-grained sedimentary rock, like shale. It shows pronounced ''schistosity'' (named for the rock). This means that the rock is composed of mineral grains easily seen with a l ...
and graywacke deposits. During the
Ordovician The Ordovician ( ) is a geologic period and System (geology), system, the second of six periods of the Paleozoic Era (geology), Era, and the second of twelve periods of the Phanerozoic Eon (geology), Eon. The Ordovician spans 41.6 million years f ...
-
Silurian The Silurian ( ) is a geologic period and system spanning 23.5 million years from the end of the Ordovician Period, at million years ago ( Mya), to the beginning of the Devonian Period, Mya. The Silurian is the third and shortest period of t ...
geological periods
quartzite Quartzite is a hard, non- foliated metamorphic rock that was originally pure quartz sandstone.Essentials of Geology, 3rd Edition, Stephen Marshak, p 182 Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tecton ...
s and schists were formed, metamorphosed by Hercynian
granitic A granitoid is a broad term referring to a diverse group of coarse-grained igneous rocks that are widely distributed across the globe, covering a significant portion of the Earth's exposed surface and constituting a large part of the continental ...
intrusions, at the end of the
Paleozoic The Paleozoic ( , , ; or Palaeozoic) Era is the first of three Era (geology), geological eras of the Phanerozoic Eon. Beginning 538.8 million years ago (Ma), it succeeds the Neoproterozoic (the last era of the Proterozoic Eon) and ends 251.9 Ma a ...
. The
Alpine orogeny The Alpine orogeny, sometimes referred to as the Alpide orogeny, is an orogenic phase in the Late Mesozoic and the current Cenozoic which has formed the mountain ranges of the Alpide belt. Cause The Alpine orogeny was caused by the African c ...
was the main cause of extensive tectonic activities and it was responsible for the formation of the hydrothermal field within the region.Santos et al. (1997), p.88 The Chaves graben was formed by the relative motion of the block with different types of sediments being settled. The most recent formations are a sedimentary series (lacustrine, alluvial, colluvial, detritic, etc.) with variable thickness that had their origin during the
Miocene The Miocene ( ) is the first epoch (geology), geological epoch of the Neogene Period and extends from about (Ma). The Miocene was named by Scottish geologist Charles Lyell; the name comes from the Greek words (', "less") and (', "new") and mea ...
. Two main faults cross and influence the tectonic activities: the north-northeast by south-southeast Chaves-Verin Fault and a fault system crossing near Faiões and Santo Estêvão. The first fault developed from late Hercynian tectonic episode occurring between 280 and 300 million years ago, that developed into an almost north–south direction into the lithosphere. Intense neotectonic activity reactivated these old fractures, originating in a complex pattern of faults in the sedimentary basin.


Thermal springs

Mineral waters are the clearest evidence of these recent tectonic fractures. The Penacova-Régua-Verín Fault, is an active formation that extends longitudinally for 500 kilometres, intermingled with other faults resulting in subterranean hydrology. The thermal springs, principally those in Campilho and Salus Vidago (in Vila de Vidago) have developed from this mixture of circumstances. With temperatures reaching , these mineral springs (bicarbonates, sodium, silicates and fluoride) in the vicinity of the city of Chaves, have provided a potential source of income. The hot springs () were known since the Roman period, when the town was
Aquae Flaviae Aquae Flaviae (or ''Aquæ Flaviæ'') is the ancient Ancient Rome, Roman city and Aquae Flaviae (titular see), former bishopric (now a Latin Catholic titular see) of Chaves, Portugal, Chaves, a Concelho, municipality in the Portugal, Portuguese Vil ...
; the ''Waters of Flavius'' were an important social gathering point, but fell into disuse as the town was slowly abandoned by attacks. The spas belong to a vast area of hydrothermal springs that stretch from Verín (in Galicia) to Pedras Salgadas, 30 km from Chaves (on the road to Vila Real). Despite its vastness and abundance of water, this thermal system is little utilized; of the nine groups of thermal springs there are only adequate installations in four of them: Chaves, Carvalhelhos, Vidago, Pedras Salgadas, and Verín. The waters of the spring, that are captured in three springs within Chaves, have mean temperatures of (the hottest bicarbonate waters in Europe). The modern spa industry in Chaves use these waters for numerous treatments, including stomach, liver, intestinal, and kidney ailments, through oral ingestion. Many small guesthouses in the old part of the town are dependent on the influx of these visitors. The thermal spas are located between the castle and the river, in front of a large area of grass-covered park with playgrounds and tennis courts.


Climate

Chaves has a
Mediterranean climate A Mediterranean climate ( ), also called a dry summer climate, described by Köppen and Trewartha as ''Cs'', is a temperate climate type that occurs in the lower mid-latitudes (normally 30 to 44 north and south latitude). Such climates typic ...
(
Köppen Köppen is a German surname. Notable people with the surname include: * Bernd Köppen (1951–2014), German pianist and composer * Carl Köppen (1833-1907), German military advisor in Meiji era Japan * Edlef Köppen (1893–1939), German author ...
: ''Csa'') with continental and oceanic influences. The mountains between the
Minho Minho or Miño may refer to: People * Miño (surname) * Choi Min-ho, South Korean singer and actor known mononymously as Minho Places * Minho (river) or Miño, in Portugal and Spain Jamaica * Rio Minho, a river Portugal * Minho Province ...
region and Trás-os-Montes serve as a climatic barrier and lessen rainfall closer to the interior. Places such as the
Peneda-Gerês National Park Peneda-Gerês National Park (, ), also known simply as Gerês, is a national park in Norte Region, Portugal. Created in May 1971, it is the oldest protected area and the only national park in Portugal. It covers an area of , occupying the Distric ...
, only away, can have up to five times the amount of precipitation Chaves gets in a year. Winters can be cold; January highs rarely surpass and lows are often below zero (54 days per year on average). Fog often hovers over the valley during the winter, usually lifting by midday, but on rare occasions can last for days, and can potentiate the development of
rime ice Rime ice forms when supercooled water droplets freeze onto surfaces. In the atmosphere, there are three basic types of rime ice: *Soft rime forms when supercooled water freezes under calm wind conditions. It is milky and crystalline, like sugar ...
.
Cold front A cold front is the leading edge of a cooler mass of air at ground level that replaces a warmer mass of air and lies within a pronounced surface Trough (meteorology), trough of Low-pressure area, low pressure. It often forms behind an extratropica ...
s in the winter can often cause daytime temperatures to drop below . Snow is infrequent, especially in recent years, although the surrounding hills often receive a dusting. Temperatures in July and August frequently pass with nighttime temperatures dropping to . Summer brush fires can often make this season unpleasant although in recent years they have diminished, perhaps because most of the forest cover has been burnt. Chaves is one of the few places in Portugal with a dry March. The coldest temperature ever recorded in Chaves was on 22 January 1983.


Human geography

Government is administered by the Municipal Chamber of Chaves (), while locally the municipality is divided into the following parishes (''freguesias''): * Águas Frias * Anelhe * Bustelo * Calvão e Soutelinho da Raia * Cimo de Vila da Castanheira * Curalha * Eiras, São Julião de Montenegro e Cela * Ervededo * Faiões * Lama de Arcos * Loivos e Póvoa de Agrações * Maços * Madalena e Samaiões * Mairos * Moreiras * Nogueira da Montanha * Oura * Outeiro Seco * Paradela * Planalto de Monforte (Oucidres e Borbadela) * Redondelo * Sanfins * Santa Cruz-Trindade e Sanjurge * Santa Leocádia * Santa Maria Maior * Santo António de Monforte * Santo Estêvão * São Pedro de Agostém * São Vicente * Soutelo e Seara Velha * Travancas e Roriz * Tronco * Vala de Anta * Vidago, Arcossó, Selhariz e Vilarinho das Paranheiras * Vila Verde da Raia * Vilar de Nantes * Vilarelho da Raia * Vilas Boas * Vilela do Tâmega * Vilela Seca


Demographics

In the past 127 years, the municipality has seen a 29% increase in local population (from 31815 in 1864 to 40940 in 1991). This was not a gradual nor homogeneous increase, since there were periods of extreme growth or rapid decline. During the 20th century, growth after 1920 is notably influenced by the restriction of trans-Atlantic emigration, just like after 1991, the population decreases were associated with liberal emigration policies as a result of the
Maastricht Treaty The Treaty on European Union, commonly known as the Maastricht Treaty, is the foundation treaty of the European Union (EU). Concluded in 1992 between the then-twelve Member state of the European Union, member states of the European Communities, ...
. The parish populations have seen fluctuations, although the most recent census show that 31 of these agglomerations had population levels in 1991 much lower than their first tabulation. Further, analysis of the data identifies that the municipal increase (29%) was primarily from the more urbanized parishes, while peripheral rural/mountainous parishes show net decreases. Many of the local people have emigrated to settlements in northern Europe in addition to
France France, officially the French Republic, is a country located primarily in Western Europe. Overseas France, Its overseas regions and territories include French Guiana in South America, Saint Pierre and Miquelon in the Atlantic Ocean#North Atlan ...
, but commonly return or visit their villages for weddings or village festivals. Many residents of Chaves have also immigrated to
Connecticut Connecticut ( ) is a U.S. state, state in the New England region of the Northeastern United States. It borders Rhode Island to the east, Massachusetts to the north, New York (state), New York to the west, and Long Island Sound to the south. ...
and
New Jersey New Jersey is a U.S. state, state located in both the Mid-Atlantic States, Mid-Atlantic and Northeastern United States, Northeastern regions of the United States. Located at the geographic hub of the urban area, heavily urbanized Northeas ...
in the
United States The United States of America (USA), also known as the United States (U.S.) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It is a federal republic of 50 U.S. state, states and a federal capital district, Washington, D.C. The 48 ...
. Chaves has been isolated from the coastal urban centers and has suffered from a lack of convenient road communications. Recently, a new four-lane highway (A24) was opened to traffic. It links Chaves to Vila Real, and to the border with Spain. In Vila Pouca de Aguiar the highway also connects with the A7 that leads to
Porto Porto (), also known in English language, English as Oporto, is the List of cities in Portugal, second largest city in Portugal, after Lisbon. It is the capital of the Porto District and one of the Iberian Peninsula's major urban areas. Porto c ...
.


City

The population of the city encompasses 17,535 residents in the parishes of Santa Cruz-Trinidade, Madalena, and Santa Maria Maior: these parishes form the urbanized population of the city of Chaves. Although many of the older buildings outside the historical walls were demolished to make way for apartment blocks, the medieval quarter with its ''Rua Direita'' and ''Rua de Santo António'' have been declared historic zones. In these areas there are narrow multi-story dwellings, whose origin has been limited by the walled city. Historically, the old quarter was the city, and few buildings were located outside its walls, since its frontier location and the imminent risk of invasion impeded the construction of homes outside the barriers. Consequently, space was limited and land primarily used for multi-purpose dwellings, resulting in very narrow streets and multi-story structures (with balconies that extend over the streets and protected the citizenry). Many of the lower floors were occupied by shops or small businesses, while the residents lived in the upper stories. Remnants of these verandas are still visible in the medieval quarter. The walled city was at the forefront of the political turmoils during the
Reconquista The ''Reconquista'' (Spanish language, Spanish and Portuguese language, Portuguese for ) or the fall of al-Andalus was a series of military and cultural campaigns that European Christian Reconquista#Northern Christian realms, kingdoms waged ag ...
, transited by armies and sacked by enemies. Chaves was built, destroyed, and rebuilt several times by either faction (
Christian A Christian () is a person who follows or adheres to Christianity, a Monotheism, monotheistic Abrahamic religion based on the life and teachings of Jesus in Christianity, Jesus Christ. Christians form the largest religious community in the wo ...
and
Muslim Muslims () are people who adhere to Islam, a Monotheism, monotheistic religion belonging to the Abrahamic religions, Abrahamic tradition. They consider the Quran, the foundational religious text of Islam, to be the verbatim word of the God ...
), when they occupied the castle (it is likely that for some periods the town was completely abandoned). In 1253, Afonso III supported the reconstruction of the castle. By 1258, Chaves was granted the status of a ''vila'' (or ''town''). While the walls were eventually rebuilt, the advent of
artillery Artillery consists of ranged weapons that launch Ammunition, munitions far beyond the range and power of infantry firearms. Early artillery development focused on the ability to breach defensive walls and fortifications during sieges, and l ...
would make the castle's fortifications obsolete, and its importance waned, while the historical battlements fell into ruins. On 15 November 2009 an extensive green space on the east side of the Tâmega River, between the Engenheiro Carmona Bridge and the Public Gardens, was opened to the public. It is an area with playgrounds, pedestrian and cycling paths, a beach football pitch, and a large grassy area. A modern pedestrian bridge was constructed to link the park and recreational area with the hot springs on the west bank of the river. At the same time cycling and walking paths were built on both banks of the river extending north for several kilometers. The pedestrian bridge, which is approximately 90 ft, is Chave's tallest and most expensive bridge.


Economy

Agriculture and services are still the main sources of income. The traditional prosperity of Chaves comes, mainly, from a highly fertile plain, nine kilometres long and three to five wide, referred to as the''"veiga"''. Since the land can be irrigated with canals there is
intensive farming Intensive agriculture, also known as intensive farming (as opposed to extensive farming), conventional, or industrial agriculture, is a type of agriculture, both of arable farming, crop plants and of Animal husbandry, animals, with higher levels ...
of
potatoes The potato () is a starchy tuberous vegetable native to the Americas that is consumed as a staple food in many parts of the world. Potatoes are underground stem tubers of the plant ''Solanum tuberosum'', a perennial in the nightshade famil ...
,
corn Maize (; ''Zea mays''), also known as corn in North American English, is a tall stout Poaceae, grass that produces cereal grain. It was domesticated by indigenous peoples of Mexico, indigenous peoples in southern Mexico about 9,000 years ago ...
,
rye Rye (''Secale cereale'') is a grass grown extensively as a grain, a cover crop and a forage crop. It is grown principally in an area from Eastern and Northern Europe into Russia. It is much more tolerant of cold weather and poor soil than o ...
, hay, while plots of vegetables are also commonplace in the local market. The main canal begins near
Vila Verde da Raia Vila Verde da Raia is a Freguesia (Portugal), civil parish in the municipality of Chaves Municipality, Portugal, Chaves, Portugal. It is one of the main crossings on the Portugal–Spain border. References

Freguesias of Chaves, Portugal ...
and crosses the valley on the right bank of the Tâmega as far as
Nantes Nantes (, ; ; or ; ) is a city in the Loire-Atlantique department of France on the Loire, from the Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic coast. The city is the List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, sixth largest in France, with a pop ...
. On the whole, the land is made up of small plots that are rarely economically viable. There is some dairy farming, and a milk production unit on the south side of town, but few cows can be seen in the valley. In general most of the farmers are of retirement age and farming is often pursued more as a hobby than as a profession. In addition to agriculture there are some small industries producing glass, tiles, and food products. Like Vila Pouca de Aguiar, located thirty kilometres south, this is a land of
granite Granite ( ) is a coarse-grained (phanerite, phaneritic) intrusive rock, intrusive igneous rock composed mostly of quartz, alkali feldspar, and plagioclase. It forms from magma with a high content of silica and alkali metal oxides that slowly coo ...
; there are several granite extraction and finishing industries located in Chaves, in addition to three brickworks, located on the south side of the city. Further, two mineral water plants, located in Vidago, belong to the municipality.


Transportation

It is serviced by A24 motorway, which links Chaves with the south, to
Viseu Viseu () is a city and municipality in the Centro Region of Portugal and the capital of the Viseu District, district of the same name, with a population of 100,105 inhabitants in the entire municipality, and center of the Viseu Dão Lafões Interm ...
,
Coimbra Coimbra (, also , , or ), officially the City of Coimbra (), is a city and a concelho, municipality in Portugal. The population of the municipality at the 2021 census was 140,796, in an area of . The fourth-largest agglomerated urban area in Po ...
and
Figueira da Foz Figueira da Foz (), officially Figueira da Foz City (), often called simply Figueira for short, is a city and a municipality in the Coimbra District, in Portugal. Practically at the midpoint of the Iberian Peninsula's Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic coa ...
, connecting to Vila Pouca de Aguiar by the A7 (which acts as the gateway to the southern Trás-os-Montes), and the N103 from Bragança to Braga. Chaves is located 415 kilometres from Lisbon, 105 kilometres from Porto and just 55 kilometres from the district capital, Vila Real. Between 1921 and 1990 Chaves was the northern terminus station of the Corgo line, a narrow gauge railway line which linked Chaves with Vila Real and Regua (the junction station for main line trains to Porto). The section between Chaves and Vila Real closed in 1990 and the remainder of the line closed in 2009. Chaves Airport, a small, single runway airport for light aircraft, also serves the town.


Architecture

The town of Chaves is built upon a long military history, that includes many
fortification A fortification (also called a fort, fortress, fastness, or stronghold) is a military construction designed for the defense of territories in warfare, and is used to establish rule in a region during peacetime. The term is derived from Lati ...
s or vestiges of battlements. Apart from the
medieval In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or medieval period lasted approximately from the 5th to the late 15th centuries, similarly to the post-classical period of World history (field), global history. It began with the fall of the West ...
castle and 17th century forts (''Forte de São Francisco'' and''Forte de São Neutel''), two medieval fortifications still exist: Santo Estêvão Tower (in the village of the same name north of Chaves) and Monforte Castle (in the hills east of the town).


Prehistoric

* Bulideira Stone () * Castro of Alto do Vamba () * Castro of Curalha () * Castro of Muradal () * Castro of Outeiro dos Mouros () * Castro of Santiago do Monte () * Castro of Vale de Lagares () * Prehistoric Rock-Art Site of Bustelo () * Prehistoric Rock-Art Site of Eiras () * Prehistoric Rock-Art Site of Outeiro Machado ()


Civic

* Agrarian School of Alves Teixeira () * Agricultural Cooperative of Chaves () * Agricultural School of Chaves () * Bridge of Arco () * Bridge of Erdevedo () * Bridge of Guilherme () * Bridge of Meirinho () * Bridge of Missa () * Bridge of Ribela () * Bridge of Oura () * Bridge of Santiago () * Bridge of Trajan (), a symbol of Chaves, the bridge was constructed during the reign of Emperors
Vespasian Vespasian (; ; 17 November AD 9 – 23 June 79) was Roman emperor from 69 to 79. The last emperor to reign in the Year of the Four Emperors, he founded the Flavian dynasty, which ruled the Empire for 27 years. His fiscal reforms and consolida ...
and
Trajan Trajan ( ; born Marcus Ulpius Traianus, 18 September 53) was a Roman emperor from AD 98 to 117, remembered as the second of the Five Good Emperors of the Nerva–Antonine dynasty. He was a philanthropic ruler and a successful soldier ...
to span the Tâmega River and connect the Roman provincial towns of Astorga, Spain, Astorga and Braga, Bracara Augusta, identifiable by columns, that identify the bridge and its dedication to Emperor; * Caixa Geral de Depósitos () * Cine-Theatre of Chaves () * Estate of Macieira em Casas Novas () * Forest Administration of Chaves () * Frontier Station of Vila Verde da Raia () * Fountain of Águas da Facha () * Fountain of Casa dos Montes () * Fountain of Castelões () * Fountain of Couto () * Fountain of Cruzeiro () * Fountain of Curalha () * Fountain of Lagoinha () * Fountain of Mina () * Fountain of Olmo () * Fountain of Povo de Castelões () * Fountain of Quinta de Humberto Teixeira () * Fountain of Santo António de Monforte () * Fountain of Santa Marinha () * Fountain of Vila Frade () * Hospital of the Santa Casa da Misericóridia () * Hospital of São João de Deus (), also known as the ''Church of Madalena'', this 18th-century building was built during the reign of King John VI of Portugal, John VI (his coat-of-arms appears on the main door), as a chapel and military hospital, but includes many Neoclassic and Baroque elements (including a high facade). * Hotel-Palace of Vidago () * Kiln of Povo de Castelões () * Markers of Ervededo () * Manorhouse of Azeredo () * Manorhouse of the Braganzas () * Manorhouse of the Machados () * Manorhouse of the Montalvões () * Manorhouse of the Viscounts of Rosário () * Municipal Council of Chaves () * Municipal Council of Ervededo () * Estádio Municipal Eng. Manuel Branco Teixeira, Municipal Stadium Eng. Manuel Branco Teixeira () * Palace of the Dukes of Braganza () * Pillory of Chaves () * Pillory of Erdevedo () * Pillory of Monforte () * Poldrado da Curalha * Pombal de Vila de Frade * Primary School Count Ferreira Chaves () * Primary School of Águas Ferias () * Primary School of Casas dos Montes () * Primary School of Casas Novas () * Primary School of Faiões () * Primary School of Loivos () * Primary School of Outeiro Jusão () * Primary School of Outeiro Seco () * Primary School of Santo António de Monforte () * Primary School of São Estêvão () * Primary School of São Lourenço () * Primary School of Selhariz () * Primary School of Vilar de Nantes () * Primary School of Vilarinho de Paranheiros () * Primary School of Vilela do Tâmega () * Railway Bridge of Tâmega () * Railway Station of Chaves () * Railway Station of Tâmega () * Railway Station of Vidago () * Residence of Abade de Baçal () * Residence of Bastos () * Residence of Meio do Povo () * Residence of Quinta da Mata () * Residence of Vilar de Nantes () * Roman Thermal Spa of Chaves () * Secondary School Dr. Júlio Dinis () * Watermills of Curalha ()


Military

* Castle of Chaves (), classified as a ''Monumento Nacional'' since 22 March 1938, the 14th century castle was constructed in the reign of King D. Denis of Portugal, Dinis, but today only the keep tower remains; * Castle of Ervededo () * Castle of Mau Vizinho (Vila Real), Castle of Mau Vizinho () * Castle of Monforte de Rio Livre () * Castle of Santo Estêvão () * Fort of São Francisco (Chaves), Fort of São Francisco (), plans for a hill fort had persisted since the Middle Ages, but this fort was only constructed following the Portuguese Restoration War, and saw service during the Napoleonic Invasion and Liberal Wars; * Fort of São Neutel (), built on a northern hill for a perceived possible Spanish invasion, during the Portuguese Restoration War, the fort was connected to the defensive line of Chaves.


Religious

In addition to the old ''Church of São Francisco'' (which for three centuries was resting place of the first Duke of Braganza), there are other buildings which have been artistically converted into hotel rooms, and which served the army as barracks for many years. * Chapel of Espírito Santo () * Chapel of Granjinha () * Chapel of Nossa Senhora das Brotas () * Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Conceição () * Chapel of Nossa Senhora das Dores () * Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Encarnação () * Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Lapa () * Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Loreto () * Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Penha () * Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Piedade () * Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Pópulo () * Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Rosário () * Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Rosário de Sanjurg() * Chapel of Pai Mogo () * Chapel of Santa Catarina () * Chapel of Santa Marinha () * Chapel of Santa Marta () * Chapel of Santo António () * Chapel of Santiago () * Chapel of São Bartolomeu () * Chapel of São Bento () * Chapel of São Bernardino () * Chapel of São Geraldo () * Chapel of São João Baptista () * Chapel of São Martinho () * Chapel of São Miguel () * Chapel of São Nicolau () * Chapel of São Roque () * Chapel of São Sebastião () * Chapel of São Simão () * Chapel of São Tiago () * Chapel of Senhor dos Aflitos () * Chapel of Senhor do Bom Caminho () * Chapel of Senhor do Calvário () * Chapel of Senhor dos Desamparados () * Chapel of Senhor dos Passos () * Chapel of Senhora de Livração () * Chapel of Senhora de Portela () * Church of Castelões () * Church of the Divino Salvador () * Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção () * Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção () * Church of Nossa Senhora da Azinheira () * Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição () * Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição () * Church of Nossa Senhora da Expectações () * Church of Nossa Senhora da Expectações () * Church of Nossa Senhora da Natividade () * Church of Nossa Senhora das Neves () * Church of Nossa Senhora das Neves () * Church of Nossa Senhora das Neves () * Church of the Sagrada Família () * Church of the Santa Casa da Misericórida (), this 17th-century Baroque church, was the main chapel of the Duke of Bragança, Dukes of Bragança, that included four Ancient Greece, Greek columns and mythological sculptures, surmounted by an image of ''Nossa Senhora da Misericórdia'' (), while the interior was covered in 18th century blue-and-white azulejo that depicted biblical scenes, while the wooden ceiling has a scene of the Visitation (Christianity), Visitation, painted by Jerónimo Rocha Braga (1743). * Church of Santo André () * Church of Santo André () * Church of Santo António () * Church of Santo António () * Church of Santa Clara () * Church of Santo Estêvão () * Church of Santa Eulália () * Church of Santa Leocádia () * Church of Santa Luzia () * Church of Santa Maria () * Church of Santa Maria () * Church of Santa Maria () * Church of Santa Maria Maior (), the 12th century Romanesque architecture, Romanesque parochial church and former-cathedral (decommissioned when the bishopric was moved to Vila Real and abandoned after 716 A.D. during the Moorish invasion),The last bishop, Idacio (who remained in this position for 40 years) was Roman bishop in the 5th century (during the period of Suevian invasions along the northwest corner of the Iberian Peninsula). Frumario, a barbarian king who destroyed the city, imprisoned the clergyman, but was later released and returned to his church (which had been severely damaged). The
Visigoths The Visigoths (; ) were a Germanic people united under the rule of a king and living within the Roman Empire during late antiquity. The Visigoths first appeared in the Balkans, as a Roman-allied Barbarian kingdoms, barbarian military group unite ...
later destroyed the structure.
was renovated in the 16th century, but the three nave church conserves many of the sturdy solid granite features and austere facade on the exterior and interior (such as the cylindrical columns supporting eight arches, a stone-ribbed dome covering the main chapel, stained glass and an unpainted oak ceiling). * Church of Santa Marta () * Church of Santa Marta () * Church of Santiago () * Church of São Bartolomeu () * Church of São Bartolomeu () * Church of São Francisco () * Church of São Gonçalo () * Church of São Geraldo () * Igreja de São João Baptista (Cimo de Vila da Castanheira), Church of São João Baptista () * Church of São Julião () * Church of São Martinho () * Church of São Miguel ()* Church of São Pedro () * Church of São Pedro de Sanfins () * Church of São Tiago () * Church of São Tiago () * Church of São Tiago () * Church of São Tomé () * Church of São Vicente () * Convent of São Francisco () * Cross of Calvão () * Cross of Eiras () * Cross of Lugar do Couto () * Cross of Nossa Senhora da Piedade () * Cross of Outeiro Seco () * Cross of Sanjurge () * Cross of São Bento () * Cross of São Sebastião () * Cross of Senhora da Piedade () * Cross of Senhora da Portela () * Cross of Vidago () * Cross of Vilela Seca () * Monastery of Nossa Senhora da Conceição () * Sanctuary of Alto do Coto () * Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da Aparecida (), constructed on the site of an 1833 Marian apparition, when three shepherd children (similar to the events in Fátima, Portugal) witnessed the Blessed Virgin Mary, Virgin Mary. * Sanctuary of São Caetano (), constructed in honour of Saint Cajetan (a Catholic Church, Catholic Theatines, Theatine orator from the Counter Reformation), it is the centre of annual (7 August) celebrations, when seven images of the saint are carried in religious processions. * Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora do Engaranho, Sanctuary of Senhora de Engaranho (), a sanctuary dedicated to an uncommon invocation to the image of Mary (responsible for aiding those with diseased-, crooked-/crossed-legs, or afflictions associated with walking, such as rickets), families with young children would visit the sanctuary and bathe their children in a carved granite stone with "miraculous waters". In addition to chapel to ''Our Lady of Necessities'' there are smaller chapels dedicated to Saint Catejan, St. Catejan, Saint Blaise, St. Blais and Saint Benedict, St. Benedict, and religious cross.


Notable citizens

* :pt:João Gonçalves da Costa, João Gonçalves da Costa, (PT Wiki) (1720–1820), an explorer and conquistador, he went to Brazil aged 16, conquering lands in the '':pt:Sertão da Ressaca, Sertão da Ressaca, (PT Wiki)'', fighting local native tribes, and founding the village of Vitória da Conquista, in the state of Bahia; * Rodrigo de Sousa Coutinho, 1st Count of Linhares (1755–1812) a nobleman and politician. * Inácio Luís Madeira de Melo (1775–1833) a military officer, served in the office of Governor of Arms, and led Portuguese troops based in Salvador, Bahia * :pt:Agostinho de Sousa Pinto de Barros Cachapuz, Agostinho de Sousa Pinto de Barros Cachapuz, (PT Wiki) (1786–1864), an officer during the
Peninsular War The Peninsular War (1808–1814) was fought in the Iberian Peninsula by Kingdom of Portugal, Portugal, Spain and the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, United Kingdom against the invading and occupying forces of the First French ...
s and Liberal Wars, decorated for his defence of legitimist ideals; * José Celestino da Silva (1849–1911) an Army officer, colonial administrator and governor of the List of colonial governors of Portuguese Timor, colony of Portuguese Timor 1894-1908. * Manuel Maria Coelho (1857–1943) a military officer during the Portuguese First Republic. He became Prime Minister in 1921 after the ''Bloody Night (Lisbon, 1921), Noite Sangrenta'' (Bloody Night) * António Granjo (1881 – Lisbon, 1921), a lawyer and politician, assassinated as Minister of the Interior, during the infamous ''Bloody Night (Lisbon, 1921), Noite Sangrenta'' (Bloody Night); * Fernando de Quintanilha e Mendonça Dias (1898-1992) member of the Portuguese Navy and a political and colonial administrator during the Estado Novo (Portugal), Estado Novo. Minister of the Navy from 1958 to 1968 and created the Hydrography, Hydrographic Institute. * Francisco da Costa Gomes, Order of the Tower and Sword, ComTE, Order of Aviz, GOA (Chaves (Portugal), Chaves; 1914–Lisbon 2001) a military officer, politician, the List of Presidents of Portugal, 15th President of Portugal, President of the Portuguese Republic (the second after the Carnation Revolution), known for his brokered military agreement in Angola (Portugal), Portuguese West Africa, and his refusal to swear public loyalty to the President of the Council of Ministers Marcello Caetano; * :pt:Gentil de Valadares, Gentil de Valadares, (PT Wiki) (1916–Alvor (Portimão), Alvor 2006), a poet, known as the ''poet traitor'' during the Estado Novo (Portugal), Estado Novo regime for his work ''Coração'' against the Colonial Wars, and imprisoned by the PIDE (secret police); * :pt:Mário Carneiro, Mário Carneiro, (PT Wiki) (1917– 2008), a surgeon and director of the ''Caldas de Chaves''; promoted a modern thermal park system in the
Alto Tâmega The Comunidade Intermunicipal do Alto Tâmega () is an administrative division in northern Portugal Portugal, officially the Portuguese Republic, is a country on the Iberian Peninsula in Southwestern Europe. Featuring Cabo da Roca, the west ...
region, that includes the Chaves spa; * Nadir Afonso, Order of St. James of the Sword, GOSE (1920–2013) a Geometric abstract art, geometric abstractionist painter, formally trained in architecture, became a pioneer in the Kinetic art movement; * António Marto (born 1947) a prelate of the Catholic Church, Roman Catholic Diocese of Leiria–Fátima, Bishop of Leiria-Fátima from 2006 to 2022, became a cardinal in 2018. * Fernando Pereira (1950–1985), freelance photographer and Greenpeace activist, killed when French intelligence (Directorate-General for External Security, DGSE) detonated a bomb and Sinking of the Rainbow Warrior, sank the Rainbow Warrior ship.


Sport

* Adão (footballer), Carlos Manuel Pereira Pinto (born 1960) known as ''Adão,'' is a Portuguese former footballer with 410 club caps and 11 for Portugal national football team, Portugal * Fernando Aguiar (born 1972) a Canadian former soccer player with 395 club caps and 13 for Canada * Vítor Castanheira (born 1977) a retired footballer with 351 club caps * João Alves (footballer, born 1980), João Alves (born 1980) a retired footballer with 361 club caps and 3 for Portugal national football team, Portugal * João Fernandes (footballer, born 1983), João Fernandes (born 1983) a footballer with about 350 club caps.


See also

* Aquæ Flaviæ * Chaves IPR


External links


Termas de Chaves
- Official website of the thermal spa of Chaves
Confraria de Chaves
- Official website of the ''Confraria de Chaves'' that promotes cultural products from the region
Grupo Desportivo Chaves


References


Notes


Sources

* * * * * * {{Authority control Chaves, Portugal, Cities in Portugal Municipalities of Vila Real District Populated places established in the 1st century