Cho Oyu (Nepali: चोयु; Tibetan:
ཇོ་བོ་དབུ་ཡ) is the sixth highest mountain in
the world at 8,188 metres (26,864 ft) above sea level. Cho Oyu
Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is
the westernmost major peak of the
Khumbu sub-section of the Mahalangur
Himalaya 20 km west of Mount Everest. The mountain stands on the
Just a few kilometres west of
Cho Oyu is Nangpa La
(5,716m/18,753 ft), a glaciated pass that serves as the main
trading route between the
Tibetans and the Khumbu's Sherpas. This pass
Khumbu and Rolwaling Himalayas. Due to its proximity to
this pass and the generally moderate slopes of the standard northwest
Cho Oyu is considered the easiest 8,000 metre peak to
climb. It is a popular objective for professionally guided parties.
Cho Oyu's height was originally measured at 26,750 feet (8,150 m)
and at the time of the first ascent it was considered the seventh
highest mountain on earth, after
Dhaulagiri at 8,167 metres
(26,795 ft) (Manaslu, now 8,156 metres (26,759 ft), was also
estimated lower at 26,658 feet (8,125 m)). A 1984 estimate of
8,201 metres (26,906 ft) made it move up to sixth place. New
measurements made in 1996 by the Government of
Nepal Survey Department
Finnish Meteorological Institute
Finnish Meteorological Institute in preparation for the Nepal
Topographic Maps put the height at 8,188 m, one remarkably similar
to the 26,867 feet (8,189 m) used by
Edmund Hillary in his 1955
book High Adventure.
Cho Oyu was first attempted in 1952 by an expedition organised and
financed by the
Joint Himalayan Committee of Great Britain as
preparation for an attempt on
Mount Everest the following year. The
expedition was led by
Eric Shipton and included
Edmund Hillary and Tom
Bourdillon. A foray by Hillary and George Lowe was stopped due to
technical difficulties and avalanche danger at an ice cliff above
6,650 m (21,820 ft) and a report of Chinese troops a short
distance across the border influenced Shipton to retreat from the
mountain rather than continue to attempt to summit.
The mountain was first climbed on October 19, 1954, via the north-west
ridge by Herbert Tichy, Joseph Jöchler and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama of
an Austrian expedition.
Cho Oyu was the fifth 8000 metre peak to be
Annapurna in June 1950,
Mount Everest in May 1953,
Nanga Parbat in July 1953 and K2 in July 1954. Until the ascent of
Mount Everest by
Reinhold Messner and
Peter Habeler in 1978, this was
the highest peak climbed without supplemental oxygen.
Cho Oyu via Tingri
In spring 2017,
Kilian Jornet was the one person to summit Cho
1952 First reconnaissance of north-west face by
Edmund Hillary and
First ascent by Austrians Joseph Jöchler and Herbert Tichy, and
Pasang Dawa Lama (Nepal)
1958 Second ascent of the peak, by an Indian expedition. Sherpa Pasang
Dawa Lama reached the peak for the second time. First death on Cho
1959 Four members killed in an avalanche during a failed international
1964 Controversial third ascent by a German expedition as there is no
proof of reaching the summit. Two mountaineers die of exhaustion in
camp 4 at 7,600 m (24,930 ft).
1978 Edi Koblmüller and Alois Furtner of
Austria summit via the
extremely difficult southeast face.
Reinhold Messner succeeds on his fourth attempt, with Hans
Kammerlander and Michael Dacher.
1985 On February 12,
Maciej Berbeka and
Maciej Pawlikowski make
the first winter ascent. It is the only winter ascent on
eight-thousander made on a new route. Repeated three days later by
Andrzej Heinrich and Jerzy Kukuczka.
1988 On November 2, a Slovenian expedition consisting of Iztok
Tomazin, Roman Robas, Blaž Jereb, Rado Nadvešnik, Marko Prezelj, and
Jože Rozman, reach the summit via the never before climbed north
1994 On May 13
Carlos Carsolio sets a world record speed ascent from
base camp to summit, ascending in 18 hours and 45 minutes.
1994 First solo ascent via the South West face by Yasushi Yamanoi.
2004 Second summit by a double amputee (Mark Inglis)
2007 Second Indian ascent. Expedition led by Abhilekh Singh Virdi.
2009 Clifton Maloney, husband of US Representative
Carolyn Maloney and
at that time the oldest American to summit an eight-thousander,
died at age 71 after summiting on 25 September. His final words were
"I’m the happiest man in the world. I’ve just summited a beautiful
2011 Dutch climber
Ronald Naar dies after becoming unwell at
8,000 m (26,250 ft).
Cho Oyu via mountain flight
Nangpa La shootings
Cho Oyu 8201m – Field Recordings from Tibet
Hillary, Edmund (1955). High Adventure. Bloomsbury Publishing.
ISBN 0-7475-6696-8. Retrieved 2014-01-15.
China I: Tibet - Xizang". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-05-29.
^ "Cho Oyu". Peakware.
^ Tichy, Herbert (1957). Cho Oyu: by favour of the gods. Methuen.
p. 195. Retrieved 2016-10-28.
^ 2886 15 Pasan Lhamu Chuli map
^ Hillary, Edmund (1955). High Adventure. Oxford University Press.
^ Barnett, Shaun (7 December 2010). "
Cho Oyu expedition team, 1952".
The Dictionary of New Zealand Biography.
^ Hillary, pp. 79-80
^ a b c d e f g h Everest News.com. "
Cho Oyu History". Retrieved
^ Günter Seyfferth, Cho Oyu, 8201 m, Erkundung, Erstbesteigung,
Erstbegehungen, Ereignisse (in German)
^ "Guest: Carlos Carsolio". Outside Online. 2000. Archived from the
original on 13 August 2007. Retrieved 2014-01-15.
^ Griffin, Lindsay (11 Oct 2011). "Piolets d'Or Asia honours Urubko".
The British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 2014-01-15.
^ "Double amputee scales Mt Everest". BBC News. 16 May 2006. Retrieved
^ "Timeline Climbing Of Cho Oyu". blogspot.com. June 2011. Retrieved
^ "Clifton Maloney, 71, died on one of highest peaks".
thevillager.com. Archived from the original on 10 October 2016.
^ "Rep. Carolyn Maloney's Husband Dies During Mountain Climb -
Gothamist". 2009-10-01. Archived from the original on 2009-10-01.
^ "Dutch Climber
Ronald Naar dies on Cho Oyu". The Outside Blog
Dispatches. Outside Online. 25 May 2011. Retrieved 2014-01-15.
^ "Dutch mountaineer
Ronald Naar dies during
DutchNews.nl. 23 May 2011. Retrieved 2014-01-15.
Cho Oyu - Gnade der Götter, (Vienna: Ullstein 1955)
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Cho Oyu.
Cho Oyu page on Summitpost.org
Cho Oyu page on Himalaya-Info.org (German)
Cho Oyu on Peakware
Ascents and fatalities statistics
Cho Oyu from Kyrgyzstan
Annapurna I East
Annapurna I Middle Peak
List of ski descents
List of climbers
List of deaths