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Eight-thousander
The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and, since 2012, the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone. From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is consistently Annapurna I (one death – climber or climber support – for ...
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Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Andreas Messner (; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian mountaineer, explorer, and author from South Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the first climber to ascend all fourteen peaks over above sea level without oxygen. Messner was the first to cross Antarctica and Greenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds. He also crossed the Gobi Desert alone. He is widely considered one of the greatest mountaineers of all time. From 1999 to 2004, Messner served as a member of the European Parliament for north-east Italy, as a member of the Federation of the Greens. Messner has published more than 80 books about his experiences as a climber and explorer. In 2018, he received jointly with Krzysztof Wielicki the Princess of Asturias Award in the category of Sports. Early life and education Messner was born within a German-speaking family settled in St. Peter, ...
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Nirmal Purja
Nirmal Purja (known as Nims or Nimsdai) ( ne, निर्मल पुर्जा; born 25 July 1983) is a Nepal-born naturalised British mountaineer and a holder of multiple mountaineering world records. Prior to taking on a career in mountaineering, he served in the British Army with the Brigade of Gurkhas followed by the Special Boat Service (SBS), the special forces unit of the Royal Navy. Purja is notable for having climbed all 14 eight-thousanders (peaks above ) in a record time of six months and six days with the aid of bottled oxygen. He was also the first to reach the summits of Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within 48 hours. In 2021, Purja, along with a team of nine other Nepalese mountaineers, completed the first-ever winter ascent of K2. Early life Nirmal ("Nims") Purja was born in July 1983 in Dana, a small village in Nepal's Myagdi district near Dhaulagiri, at 1,600 m above sea level. At age 4, his family moved lower down to the Chitwan District near Kathma ...
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Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 13 December 1970) is an Austrian mountaineer. In August 2011, she became the second woman to climb the fourteen eight-thousanders and the first woman to do so without the use of supplementary oxygen or high altitude porters. In 2012, she won the prestigious National Geographic Explorer of the Year Award. Mountaineering Her interest in mountain climbing developed at a young age, and by the age of 13 she had completed climbing tours at the local Sturzhahn. As she pursued her nursing training in Vienna, Austria, she continued to hone her skills by participating in numerous ski, ice- and rock-climbing tours. At the age of 32, Kaltenbrunner climbed her fourth 8000m peak, Nanga Parbat, and decided to pursue professional mountain climbing full-time. Eight-thousanders Together with Edurne Pasaban and Nives Meroi she is one of only three women who have climbed the fourteen eight-thousanders. Kaltenbrunner climbs without supplemental oxygen, which makes her ...
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Ed Viesturs
Edmund Viesturs (born June 22, 1959) is a high-altitude mountaineer, corporate speaker, and well known author in the mountain climbing community. He is the only American to have climbed all 14 of the world's eight-thousander mountain peaks, and only the fifth person to do so without using supplemental oxygen. Along with Apa Sherpa, he has summitted peaks of over 8,000 meters on 21 occasions, including Mount Everest seven times. Viesturs took part in the 1996 IMAX filming of ''Everest'' shortly after the 1996 Mount Everest disaster, which became the highest grossing documentary up to that time.Survivors Look Back – April 2003
Thirteen days after the disaster, his team summited Everest accompanied by a film crew. He also had a cameo in the year 2000 Hollywood blockbuster ''

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Cho Oyu
__NOTOC__ Cho Oyu (Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the ''Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Himalaya 20 km west of Mount Everest. The mountain stands on the China TibetNepal Province No. 1 border. Just a few kilometres west of Cho Oyu is Nangpa La (5,716m/18,753 ft), a glaciated pass that serves as the main trading route between the Tibetans and the Khumbu's Sherpas. This pass separates the Khumbu and Rolwaling Himalayas. Due to its proximity to this pass and the generally moderate slopes of the standard northwest ridge route, Cho Oyu is considered the easiest 8,000 metre peak to climb. It is a popular objective for professionally guided parties. Height Cho Oyu's height was originally measured at and at the time of the first ascent it was considered the seventh highest mountain on earth, after Dhaulagiri at ...
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Shishapangma
Shishapangma, also called Gosainthān, is the 14th-highest mountain in the world, at above sea level. In 1964, it became the last of the 8,000-metre peaks to be climbed. This was due to its location entirely within Tibet and the restrictions on visits by foreign travelers to the region imposed by Chinese authorities. Name Geologist Toni Hagen explained the name as meaning a "grassy plain" or "meadow" (') above a "comb" or a "range" (' or ') in the local Tibetan language, thereby signifying the "crest above the grassy plains". On the other hand, Tibetologist Guntram Hazod records a local story that explains the mountain's name in terms of its literal meaning in the Standard Tibetan language: ', which means "meat of an animal that died of natural causes", and ', which means "malt dregs left over from brewing beer". According to the story, one year a heavy snowfall killed most of the animals at pasture. All that the people living near the mountain had to eat was the meat of th ...
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Edurne Pasaban
Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar (born August 1, 1973) is a Basque Spanish mountaineer. On May 17, 2010, she became the first woman to climb all of the fourteen eight-thousander peaks in the World –and the 21st person to do so.ExWeb Oh Eun-Sun report, final: Edurne Pasaban takes the throne
ExplorersWeb, Dec 10, 2010
Her first 8,000 peak had been achieved 9 years earlier, on May 23, 2001, when she climbed to the summit of .


Life and career

Pasaban was born in Tolosa, in the province of

Kim Chang-ho (climber)
Kim Chang-ho ( ko, 김창호) (born 15 September 1969, died 11 October 2018), was a South Korean high altitude mountain climber, and at the time of his death in 2018, was considered Korea's strongest ever alpine and Himalayan climber. In 2012, Kim won the Piolets d'Or Asia award with An Chi-young when they made the first-ever ascent of Himjung (7,092m, 2012) in Nepal via its southwest face. In 2017, Kim and his two climbing partners were awarded an ''Honourable Mention'' for the 2017 Piolet d'Or for their ascent of Gangapurna's south face (7,455m, 2016) in a "bold lightweight alpine style", the first Koreans to receive such a citation. In 2013, he became the first Korean to climb all of the world's 14 eight-thousanders and without using supplementary oxygen; and in doing so set a record for completing the feat in the shortest time at 7 years, 10 months and 6 days. He was killed, along with several others including fellow South Korean climbers and local mountain guides in Nepal ...
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Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat ( ur, ) (; ), known locally as Diamer () which means “king of the mountains”, is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth, its summit at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Kashmir, Nanga Parbat is the westernmost major peak of the Himalayas, and thus in the traditional view of the Himalayas as bounded by the Indus and Yarlung Tsangpo/Brahmaputra rivers, it is the western anchor of the entire mountain range. Nanga Parbat is one of the 14 eight-thousanders. An immense, dramatic peak rising far above its surrounding terrain, Nanga Parbat is known to be a difficult climb, and has earned the nickname ''Killer Mountain'' for its high number of climber fatalities. Etymology The name Nanga Parbat is derived from the Sanskrit words ''nagna'' and ''parvata'', which, when combined, translate to "Naked Mountain". The mountain is known locally by its Tibetan name ' ...
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Veikka Gustafsson
Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson, known as Veikka Gustafsson (born 14 January 1968) is a Finnish mountaineer who has ascended all 14 eight-thousanders in the world without the use of supplemental oxygen. He is also known for presenting a TV travel show on Finnish television. Climbing career In 1993, Gustafsson became the first Finnish person to have reached the top of Mount Everest. In the spring of 1997, he also became the first Finn to have climbed to the summit without the use of bottled oxygen. Gustafsson is the 17th mountaineer in the world to have summited all 14 of the highest mountains above 8,000 metres, and the 9th to have done so without the use of supplemental oxygen. Research published in 2022 estimated that Gustafsson is one of only three climbers to have stood on the "true" geographical summit of all the eight-thousanders, and that he was the second to do so after American climber, Ed Viesturs. Eight-thousander ascents * Mount Everest (8848 m), spring 1993, with ...
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Sanu Sherpa
Sanu Sherpa (born 1975) is a Nepalese mountaineer from, Makalu, Sankhuwasabha. On 21 July 2022, he became the first person to climb all of the 14 highest peaks in the world, known as the eight-thousanders, twice-over. He made his first ascent of all the 14 eight-thousanders between 2006 and 2019, becoming the 42nd person to do so in history. Before starting climbing as a porter, Sanu was previously a herdsman in Sankhuwasabha District in his early life. Eight-thousander ascents * Annapurna – 2016, 2021, 2022 * Broad Peak – 2014, 2017 * Cho Oyu – 2006, 2008 * Dhaulagiri – 2019, 2021, 2022 * Everest – 2007, 2008, 2009, 2012, 2013, 2016, 2017 * Gasherbrum II – 2019, 2022 * Gasherbrum I – 2013, 2019, 2022 * K2 – 2012, 2021 * Kanchenjunga – 2014, 2022 * Lhotse – 2008, 2021, 2022 * Makalu – 2019, 2022 * Manaslu – 2010, 2011, 2016 * Nanga Parbat – 2017, 2018, 2022 * Shishapangma Shishapangma, also called Gosainthān, is the 14th-highest mountain in the ...
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Annapurna
Annapurna (; ne, अन्नपूर्ण) is a mountain situated in the Annapurna mountain range of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. It is the tenth highest mountain in the world at above sea level and is well known for the difficulty and danger involved in its ascent. Maurice Herzog led a French expedition to its summit through the north face in 1950, making it the first eight-thousand meter peak ever successfully climbed. The entire massif and surrounding area are protected within the Annapurna Conservation Area, the first and largest conservation area in Nepal. The Annapurna Conservation Area is home to several world-class treks, including Annapurna Sanctuary and Annapurna Circuit. For decades, Annapurna I Main held the highest fatality-to-summit rate of all principal eight-thousander summits; it has, however, seen great climbing successes in recent years, with the fatality rate falling from 32% to just under 20% from 2012 to 2022. This figure places it ...
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