A surtout de table is an ornamental
centrepiece
A centrepiece or centerpiece is an important item of a display, usually of a table setting. Centrepieces help set the theme of the decorations and bring extra decorations to the room. A centrepiece also refers to any central or important object ...
displayed on a formal dining table, "a large centerpiece with mirrored plateaus and numerous candelabra and other possible display pieces on top". In French ''surtout de table'' is the usual term for any type of centrepiece, but in English this "tray" type, along with the objects placed on it, is the usual meaning.
Evolving from a simple plate or bowl on which to stand candlesticks and condiments, a surtout de table often took the form of a long galleried tray made of precious or gilded metals, on which a series of other objects were placed for display. It was often made in sections allowing its length to be determined by the leaves added to the table. During the later half of the 18th century and throughout the 19th century, no formal table was considered compete without one. Today, they are still seen and used in the most formal dining rooms.
History

According to
Roy Strong
Sir Roy Colin Strong, (born 23 August 1935) is an English art historian, museum curator, writer, broadcaster and landscape designer. He has served as director of both the National Portrait Gallery and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. ...
, the surtout de table first appeared in 1692 at the meals for the wedding of
Philippe II, Duke of Orléans
Philippe II, Duke of Orléans (Philippe Charles; 2 August 1674 – 2 December 1723), who was known as the Regent, was a French prince, soldier, and statesman who served as Regent of the Kingdom of France from 1715 to 1723. He is referred to i ...
(then
duc de Chartres) and Louis XIV's legitimized daughter
Françoise Marie de Bourbon
Françoise Marie de Bourbon (''Légitimée de France''; 4 May 1677 1 February 1749) was the youngest illegitimate daughter of King Louis XIV, Louis XIV of France and his ''maîtresse-en-titre'', Françoise-Athénaïs de Rochechouart, Marquise ...
, as "a great silver gilt piece of a new invention". At first it was designed to hold candles, condiments, and other clutter on the table, and protect a polished wooden table from the staining caused by spillage from the salt and vinegars in the condiments. During the first half of the 18th century, as the great central and ceremonial salt cellars fell from favour, to be replaced by smaller individual salt cellars, and the
sugar sculpture
Sugar sculpture is the art of producing artistic centerpieces entirely composed of sugar and sugar derivatives. These were very popular at grand feasts from the Renaissance until at least the 18th century, and sometimes made by famous artists. ...
trionfo
Trionfo () is an Italian word meaning "triumph", also "triumphal procession", and a triumphal car or float in such a procession. The classical triumphal procession for victorious generals and Emperors known as the Roman Triumph was revived for ...
declined, the surtout de table evolved to fill the role of ornamental table centrepiece.
It often took the form of a raised galleried tray which would be filled with matching candelabra, figurines, vases and
epergne
An epergne ( ) is a type of table centerpiece that is usually made of silver
Silver is a chemical element; it has Symbol (chemistry), symbol Ag () and atomic number 47. A soft, whitish-gray, lustrous transition metal, it exhibits the hig ...
s, the gallery itself sometimes containing candle sconces. They were not always constructed from precious metals; porcelain and glass were often used, as might be
sculptures made from sugar. The top of the tray was often a mirror, to show the underside of the objects on it, and increase reflected light. Others continued as sculptural forms, sometimes becoming extremely extravagant.
It was not uncommon, if a surtout de table were commissioned for a specific house, for an indigenous theme to be used in the style. Hence, a hunting lodge may have a surtout de table with figurines of dogs and their quarry while a grander town palace would feature the most fashionable Rococo or Baroque styles of the day. Military figures and regimental officers' messes often commissioned examples with military subjects.
During the 1850s, the fashion for themed dining table decoration reached its apogee and the surtout de table reflected this. Porcelain factories such as
Meissen
Meissen ( ), is a town of approximately 30,000 about northwest of Dresden and 75 km (46 mi) west of Bautzen on both banks of the Elbe river in the Free State of Saxony, in eastern Germany. Meissen is the home of Meissen porcelain, th ...
produced elaborate models and figurines which replaced the classical statuary of the
Empire style
The Empire style (, ''style Empire'') is an early-nineteenth-century design movement in architecture, furniture, other decorative arts, and the visual arts, representing the second phase of Neoclassicism. It flourished between 1800 and 1815 duri ...
with coloured porcelain mountains, rustic scenes with cattle and goats and, occasionally, even a jungle theme complete with lifelike porcelain snakes.
Notable examples
Notable examples of surtouts de table include those made the Italian goldsmith Luigi Valadier, often designed by his son, the architect
Giuseppe Valadier
Giuseppe Valadier (April 14, 1762 – February 1, 1839) was an Italian architect and designer, urban planner and archaeologist and a chief exponent of Neoclassicism in Italy.
A teacher of architecture at the Accademia di San Luca, Valadier was a ...
. These monumental surtouts de table often represent Roman cities in miniature, complete with temples, colonnades and triumphal arches of coloured marbles and alabaster mounted on gold and mosaic pediments.
Waddesdon Manor
Waddesdon Manor is a English country house, country house in the village of Waddesdon, in Buckinghamshire, England. Owned by the National Trust and managed by the Rothschild Foundation, it is one of the National Trust's most visited properties, ...
in England is now home to a vast 6.7 metre long gilt tray surtout de table made by
Pierre-Philippe Thomire (1751–1843). Made circa 1818, it was given to Prince Ruffo della Scaletta by
Louis XVIII
Louis XVIII (Louis Stanislas Xavier; 17 November 1755 – 16 September 1824), known as the Desired (), was King of France from 1814 to 1824, except for a brief interruption during the Hundred Days in 1815. Before his reign, he spent 23 y ...
.
George Washington
George Washington (, 1799) was a Founding Fathers of the United States, Founding Father and the first president of the United States, serving from 1789 to 1797. As commander of the Continental Army, Washington led Patriot (American Revoluti ...
ordered one via
Gouverneur Morris
Gouverneur Morris ( ; January 31, 1752 – November 6, 1816) was an American statesman, a Founding Father of the United States, and a signatory to the Articles of Confederation and the United States Constitution. He wrote the Preamble to the ...
in Paris in 1790, writing "Will you please my good Sir, send to me to Philadelphia or this place mirrors for a table with neat and fashionable but not expensive, ornaments for them, such as will do credit to your taste. The mirrors, the aggregate length of them may be ten feet, the width two feet, the panels may be plated ware or anything else more fashionable."
France distributing wreaths of glory is the name and theme of a large silver plate on bronze surtout de table commissioned from the Parisian jeweller
Charles Christofle by
Napoleon III
Napoleon III (Charles-Louis Napoléon Bonaparte; 20 April 18089 January 1873) was President of France from 1848 to 1852 and then Emperor of the French from 1852 until his deposition in 1870. He was the first president, second emperor, and last ...
in 1852. Intended for use at state banquets at the
Tuileries Palace
The Tuileries Palace (, ) was a palace in Paris which stood on the right bank of the Seine, directly in the west-front of the Louvre Palace. It was the Parisian residence of most French monarchs, from Henri IV to Napoleon III, until it was b ...
, the gilded tray contains a
garniture of fifteen sculptures. The central figure is a winged
Victory
The term victory (from ) originally applied to warfare, and denotes success achieved in personal duel, combat, after military operations in general or, by extension, in any competition. Success in a military campaign constitutes a strategic vi ...
bearing laurel leaves which she awards to two horse-drawn chariots representing war and peace. At Victory's feet sit figurines representing Justice, Concord, Force and Religion.
The surtout de table was still in situ when the palace caught fire in 1871. It was pulled from the smoking debris damaged but intact. It has never been restored and is today displayed with its smoke-blackened gilt and dents at the
Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.
Napoleon.org
retrieved 28 January 2016
File:Surtout de Table (Tenth Series of Designs from the wor... - Google Art Project.jpg, Designs for silver, Juste-Aurèle Meissonnier, 1740s
File:Hôtel de Charost JP2010 salle à manger.jpg, Hôtel de Charost
File:The Great Dining Room.jpg, Chatsworth House
Chatsworth House is a stately home in the Derbyshire Dales, north-east of Bakewell and west of Chesterfield, Derbyshire, Chesterfield, England. The seat of the Duke of Devonshire, it has belonged to the House of Cavendish, Cavendish family si ...
File:France Surtout de table.jpg, French ormolu
Ormolu (; ) is the gilding technique of applying finely ground, high-carat gold– mercury amalgam to an object of bronze, and objects finished in this way. The mercury is driven off in a kiln, leaving behind a gold coating. The French refer to ...
, later 19th century
File:Colecciones Reales - Dessert.jpg, ''Glories of Spain'', 1802. Royal Collections Gallery
Notes
References
*Coffin, Sarah D.
"Surtout de table: sustenance of political power"
2018, Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum is a design museum at the Andrew Carnegie Mansion in Manhattan, New York City, along the Upper East Side's Museum Mile. It is one of 19 Smithsonian Institution museums and one of three Smithsonian facil ...
,
* Strong, Roy, ''Feast: A History of Grand Eating'', 2002, Jonathan Cape, {{ISBN, 0224061380
* Milena Hübner, ''Surtout de table by Pierre-Philippe Thomire at the Wilanów Palace'', Kwartalnik Historii Kultury Materialnej, 68 (3), 2020, 357–390. https://doi.org/10.23858/KHKM68.2020.3.005
Serving and dining
Silversmithing