Stumpfwald
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The Stumpfwald is part of the northern Palatine Forest and is located in the south of the German state of
Rhineland-Palatinate Rhineland-Palatinate ( , ; german: link=no, Rheinland-Pfalz ; lb, Rheinland-Pfalz ; pfl, Rhoilond-Palz) is a western state of Germany. It covers and has about 4.05 million residents. It is the ninth largest and sixth most populous of the ...
. It covers an area of about 150 km², most of which is part of
North Palatinate North Palatinate''Das Ende des Zweiten Weltkrieges in der Nordpfalz'' by Timo Scherne, Nordpfälzer Geschichtsverein, 2006. (german: Nordpfalz) is a region in southwest Germany with an area of just 650 km², making it the smallest landscape in ...
and runs from west to east on the territories of
Enkenbach-Alsenborn Enkenbach-Alsenborn is a municipality in the district of Kaiserslautern, in Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany. It is situated on the northern edge of the Palatinate forest, approx. 10 km north-east of Kaiserslautern. Enkenbach-Alsenborn is also ...
( county of Kaiserslautern) and Ramsen (county of
Donnersbergkreis The Donnersbergkreis is a district (''Kreis'') in the middle of Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany. Neighboring districts are Bad Kreuznach (district), Bad Kreuznach, Alzey-Worms, Bad Dürkheim (district), Bad Dürkheim, Kaiserslautern (district), Kaise ...
). It has given its name to the '' Stumpfwaldgericht'', an old
thingstead A thing, german: ding, ang, þing, enm, thing. (that is, "assembly" or folkmoot) was a governing assembly in early Germanic society, made up of the free people of the community presided over by a lawspeaker. Things took place at regular in ...
, and the heritage line of the
Stumpfwald Railway The Stumpfwald Railway (german: Stumpfwaldbahn) is a narrow gauge heritage railway that has operated since 1996 in the Stumpfwald, a woodland area in the north of the Palatine Forest in the municipality of Ramsen. Course The western en ...
.


Geography and geology

The hills and woods of the Stumpfwald, bisected by valleys in all directions, have an average height of just under . The stream with the greatest volumetric flow in the Stumpfwald is the upper Eisbach and its headstream, the Bockbach. Geologically, the Stumpfwald - like most of the Palatine uplands - is predominantly made of
bunter sandstone The Buntsandstein (German for ''coloured'' or ''colourful sandstone'') or Bunter sandstone is a lithostratigraphic and allostratigraphic unit (a sequence of rock strata) in the subsurface of large parts of west and central Europe. The Buntsands ...
, which was formed from wind-blown
desert A desert is a barren area of landscape where little precipitation occurs and, consequently, living conditions are hostile for plant and animal life. The lack of vegetation exposes the unprotected surface of the ground to denudation. About on ...
sand about 250 million years ago (during the
Permian The Permian ( ) is a geologic period and stratigraphic system which spans 47 million years from the end of the Carboniferous Period million years ago (Mya), to the beginning of the Triassic Period 251.9 Mya. It is the last period of the Paleoz ...
/
Triassic The Triassic ( ) is a geologic period and system which spans 50.6 million years from the end of the Permian Period 251.902 million years ago ( Mya), to the beginning of the Jurassic Period 201.36 Mya. The Triassic is the first and shortest period ...
transition) in what was then the
Germanic Basin The Germanic Basin (german: Germanisches Becken) is a large region of sedimentation in Western and Central Europe that, during the Permian and Triassic periods, extended from England in the west to the eastern border of Poland in the east. To the ...
. Together with the neighbouring Otterberg Forest to the west (on the far side of
Alsenz Alsenz () is a municipality in the Donnersbergkreis district, in Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany. Alsenz has an area of 12.88 km2 and a population of 1,647 (as of December 31, 2020). Culture and sights In the centre of the village is the Re ...
), the region is also called the ''Lower Palatinate Forest'' by many geoscientists. In the north it descends to the valley of the
Pfrimm The Pfrimm is a , left or western tributary of the Rhine in the Rhineland-Palatinate (Germany). Course The Pfrimm rises in the southern part of the Donnersbergkreis. Its spring lies in the northern part of the Palatinate Forest Nature Park, ...
, which flows past
Worms Worms may refer to: *Worm, an invertebrate animal with a tube-like body and no limbs Places *Worms, Germany, a city **Worms (electoral district) *Worms, Nebraska, U.S. *Worms im Veltlintal, the German name for Bormio, Italy Arts and entertainme ...
into the
River Rhine ), Surselva, Graubünden, Switzerland , source1_coordinates= , source1_elevation = , source2 = Rein Posteriur/Hinterrhein , source2_location = Paradies Glacier, Graubünden, Switzerland , source2_coordinates= , sourc ...
, in the east it borders on the distinctive Leininger Sporn (516 m) and, in the south, on the
Diemerstein Forest Diemerstein Forest (german: Diemersteiner Wald) is a part of the Palatine Forest, a mountainous region within the German state of Rhineland-Palatinate. It has an area of about 50 km². Geography The Diemerstein Forest lies in the north of ...
and the upper reaches of the
Isenach The Isenach is a left tributary of the Rhine in the northeastern Palatine region of Rhineland-Palatinate. It is nearly long. Course The Isenach rises in the northern Palatinate Forest, southwest of Carlsberg Hertlingshausen. Its source in ...
. The region is accessible to motor traffic on the ''
Landesstraße ''Landesstraßen'' (singular: ''Landesstraße'') are roads in Germany and Austria that are, as a rule, the responsibility of the respective German or Austrian federal state. The term may therefore be translated as "state road". They are roads t ...
395'', which runs uphill from Ramsen to Enkenbach. The A 6 motorway from
Mannheim Mannheim (; Palatine German: or ), officially the University City of Mannheim (german: Universitätsstadt Mannheim), is the second-largest city in the German state of Baden-Württemberg after the state capital of Stuttgart, and Germany's 2 ...
to
Saarbrücken Saarbrücken (; french: link=no, Sarrebruck ; Rhine Franconian: ''Saarbrigge'' ; lb, Saarbrécken ; lat, Saravipons, lit=The Bridge(s) across the Saar river) is the capital and largest city of the state of Saarland, Germany. Saarbrücken is S ...
runs along the southern edge of the forest, and five to ten miles to the north is the A 63 motorway from
Kaiserslautern Kaiserslautern (; Palatinate German: ''Lautre'') is a city in southwest Germany, located in the state of Rhineland-Palatinate at the edge of the Palatinate Forest. The historic centre dates to the 9th century. It is from Paris, from Frankfur ...
to
Mainz Mainz () is the capital and largest city of Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany. Mainz is on the left bank of the Rhine, opposite to the place that the Main (river), Main joins the Rhine. Downstream of the confluence, the Rhine flows to the north-we ...
. The
Eis Valley Railway The Eis Valley Railway (german: Eistalbahn) is a branch line in the German state of Rhineland-Palatinate, that runs through the Palatine Forest. It runs from Grünstadt in a southwesterly direction through the valley of the Eisbach (or "Eis") to ...
that originally ran parallel to the main road from
Grünstadt Grünstadt ( pfl, Grinnschdadt) is a town in the Bad Dürkheim district in Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany with roughly 13,200 inhabitants. It does not belong to any ''Verbandsgemeinde'' – a kind of collective municipality – but is nonetheless th ...
to Enkenbach-Alsenborn was re-opened again after having been closed in the 1980s and nowadays is worked by tourist services.


History


Name

Documents from the years 765 and 1330 called the area ''Stamp'', but others dated 1357, 1494 and 1596, referred to it as ''Stampf''. The word was used of places where it was necessary because of the very steep slopes to walk with "stomping steps" ('stampfenden Schritten''). In ignorance of its derivation the name was later changed to ''Stumpfwald'' ("Stumpf Wood").Hans Feßmeyer: ''Der Stumpfwald bei Ramsen''. Ramsen, 1956


Formal development

Timber Lumber is wood that has been processed into dimensional lumber, including beams and planks or boards, a stage in the process of wood production. Lumber is mainly used for construction framing, as well as finishing (floors, wall panels, wi ...
rights in the forest were recorded as early as 1390 in the ''Stumpfwaldweistum''.Roland Happersberger: ''Gut Holz – passé''. In: Die Rheinpfalz am Sonntag, Ludwigshafen, 14 September 2008 They not only survived the
Late Middle Ages The Late Middle Ages or Late Medieval Period was the Periodization, period of European history lasting from AD 1300 to 1500. The Late Middle Ages followed the High Middle Ages and preceded the onset of the early modern period (and in much of Eur ...
, but also major changes of lordship in the centuries that followed. For example, it survived the
French Revolution The French Revolution ( ) was a period of radical political and societal change in France that began with the Estates General of 1789 and ended with the formation of the French Consulate in November 1799. Many of its ideas are considere ...
of 1797, the transfer of the forest to the national territory of
France France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of Overseas France, overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic, Pacific Ocean, Pac ...
, the final defeat of
Napoleon Napoleon Bonaparte ; it, Napoleone Bonaparte, ; co, Napulione Buonaparte. (born Napoleone Buonaparte; 15 August 1769 – 5 May 1821), later known by his regnal name Napoleon I, was a French military commander and political leader who ...
and, in 1816, its transfer to the
Kingdom of Bavaria The Kingdom of Bavaria (german: Königreich Bayern; ; spelled ''Baiern'' until 1825) was a German state that succeeded the former Electorate of Bavaria in 1805 and continued to exist until 1918. With the unification of Germany into the German E ...
. These rights continued even to the present day. In particular, the inhabitants of the "nine marches" (''Neunmärker'') - the nine settlements whose territories bordered on the Rhine in succession - were allowed to obtain building timber from the Stumpfwald. These were the village of
Mertesheim Mertesheim is an ''Ortsgemeinde'' – a municipality belonging to a ''Verbandsgemeinde'', a kind of collective municipality – in the Bad Dürkheim district in Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany. Geography Location The municipality lies in the no ...
, the town of
Grünstadt Grünstadt ( pfl, Grinnschdadt) is a town in the Bad Dürkheim district in Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany with roughly 13,200 inhabitants. It does not belong to any ''Verbandsgemeinde'' – a kind of collective municipality – but is nonetheless th ...
, and the villages of Asselheim,
Mülheim Mülheim, officially Mülheim an der Ruhr () and also described as ''"City on the River"'', is a city in North Rhine-Westphalia in Germany. It is located in the Ruhr Area between Duisburg, Essen, Oberhausen and Ratingen. It is home to many compan ...
, Albsheim, Heidenheim, Colgenstein,
Obrigheim Obrigheim ( South Franconian: ''Owweringe'') is a town in the district of Neckar-Odenwald-Kreis, in Baden-Württemberg, Germany. It is the location of the Obrigheim Nuclear Power Plant Obrigheim Nuclear Power Plant (KWO) is a mothballed nucl ...
and
Obersülzen Obersülzen is an ''Ortsgemeinde'' – a municipality belonging to a ''Verbandsgemeinde'', a kind of collective municipality – in the Bad Dürkheim district in Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany. It lies in the northwest of the Rhine-Neckar urban aggl ...
. Other holders of such rights were the inhabitants of Ramsen,
Hettenleidelheim Hettenleidelheim ( Palatine German: ''Hettrum'') is an ''Ortsgemeinde'' – a municipality belonging to a ''Verbandsgemeinde'', a kind of collective municipality – in the Bad Dürkheim district in Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany. Until 2018, it was ...
, Eisenberg and Stauf, because these communities belonged to Ramsen Abbey or the Barony of Stauf, who shared ownership of the Stumpfwald. The villagers of
Wattenheim Wattenheim is an ''Ortsgemeinde'' – a municipality belonging to a ''Verbandsgemeinde'', a kind of collective municipality – in the Bad Dürkheim district in Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany. Geography Location Wattenheim lies on a cone-shape ...
only had logging rights if they could claim ownership of an ox and cart. The French nation, the Kingdom of Bavaria and the Federal Republic of Germany tried repeatedly, but in vain, to secure ownership of the Stumpfwald. Most recently, in 1989, the Association of Municipalities with Rights in the Stumpfwald (Nine Marches) (''Zweckverband der am Stumpfwald berechtigten Gemeinden (Neunmärkerei)''), which was founded after the
Second World War World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
, won a legal dispute against the state of Rhineland-Palatinate and was paid DM 420,000 in forestry income. When the municipality of Wattenheim demanded their share, the Nine Marches initially wanted a legal ruling as to whether logging using tractors instead of draught animals actually came under the old ''Weistum'' rights. In 1990 a
settlement Settlement may refer to: *Human settlement, a community where people live *Settlement (structural), the distortion or disruption of parts of a building *Closing (real estate), the final step in executing a real estate transaction *Settlement (fina ...
was reached that allowed Wattenheim to receive its dues, but left open the issue of
draught animal A working animal is an animal, usually domesticated, that is kept by humans and trained to perform tasks instead of being slaughtered to harvest animal products. Some are used for their physical strength (e.g. oxen and draft horses) or for tr ...
s versus motorized
tractor unit A tractor unit (also known as a truck unit, power unit, prime mover, ten-wheeler, semi-tractor, tractor truck, semi-truck, tractor cab, truck cab, tractor rig, truck rig or big rig or simply a tractor, truck, semi or rig) is a characteristical ...
s.


Sights

Sights in the Stumpfwald include the
Stumpfwald Railway The Stumpfwald Railway (german: Stumpfwaldbahn) is a narrow gauge heritage railway that has operated since 1996 in the Stumpfwald, a woodland area in the north of the Palatine Forest in the municipality of Ramsen. Course The western en ...
heritage line A heritage railway or heritage railroad (US usage) is a railway operated as living history to re-create or preserve railway scenes of the past. Heritage railways are often old railway lines preserved in a state depicting a period (or periods) i ...
, the three bridges on the regional
Eis Valley Railway The Eis Valley Railway (german: Eistalbahn) is a branch line in the German state of Rhineland-Palatinate, that runs through the Palatine Forest. It runs from Grünstadt in a southwesterly direction through the valley of the Eisbach (or "Eis") to ...
, the
Eiswoog The Eiswoog is a reservoir, roughly six hectares in area, on the Eisbach stream, locally also called ''die Eis'', in the German state of Rhineland-Palatinate. It is oriented from south to north in the water meadows near the source of the stream i ...
reservoir and the '' Stumpfwaldgericht'' thingstead site.


References


Literature

* (2nd Revised Edition, edited by Manfred Stumpf. Ramsen 1999) * {{coord missing, Germany Natural regions of the Palatinate Forest