Marie-Antoine Carême

Marie Antoine (Antonin) Carême (; 8 June 178412 January 1833) was a French chef and an early practitioner and exponent of the elaborate style of cooking known as ''grande cuisine'', the "high art" of French cooking: a grandiose style of cookery favored by both international royalty and by the nouveau riche ("newly rich") of Paris. Carême is often considered one of the first internationally renowned celebrity chefs.

Biography

Abandoned by his parents in Paris in 1794 at the height of the French Revolution, he worked as a kitchen boy at a cheap Parisian chophouse in exchange for room and board. In 1798, he was formally apprenticed to Sylvain Bailly, a famous ''pâtissier'' with a shop near the Palais-Royal. The post-revolutionary Palais-Royal was a high-profile, fashionable neighborhood filled with vibrant life and bustling crowds. Bailly recognized his talent and ambition. By the time he was prepared to leave Bailly, he could stipulate that he should be free to leave his new employer when a better offer came along. Carême opened his own shop, the ''Pâtisserie de la rue de la Paix'', in 1803, and maintained it until 1813.

Carême gained fame in Paris for his '' pièces montées'', elaborate constructions used as centerpieces, which Bailly had displayed in his pâtisserie window. Carême made these confections, which were sometimes several feet high, entirely out of foodstuffs such as sugar, marzipan, and pastry. He modeled them on temples, pyramids, and ancient ruins, taking inspiration from architectural history books which he studied at the nearby Bibliothèque Nationale, thanks to the enlightened attitude of his first employer Bailly. He is credited with the inventions of ''gros nougats'' and ''grosses meringues'', ''croquantes'', made of almonds and honey, and '' solilemmes''.

He did freelance work creating pieces principally for the French diplomat and gourmand Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord, but also other members of Parisian high society, including Napoleon. While working on his confections at many private kitchens, he quickly extended his culinary skills to main courses.

Napoleon was famously indifferent to food, but he understood the importance of social relations in the world of diplomacy. In 1804, he gave money to Talleyrand to purchase Château de Valençay, a large estate outside Paris. The château was intended to act as a kind of diplomatic gathering place. When Talleyrand moved there, he took Carême with him. Carême was set a test by Talleyrand: to create a whole year's worth of menus, without repetition, and using only seasonal produce. Carême passed the test and completed his training in Talleyrand's kitchens.

After the restoration of the monarchy, Carême cooked for various foreign dignitaries in Paris while working on his two books on pastry. From the autumn of 1816 to mid-1817, he served as ''chef de cuisine'' to the Prince Regent, later George IV, in London. At the Congress of Aix-la-Chapelle in 1818, he was employed by Tsar Alexander I. He later served Lord Stewart, the British ambassador, in Vienna. He accompanied Stewart back to London, but then returned to Paris. In 1819, Carême accepted a position with Tsar Alexander in St. Petersburg, but stayed so briefly that he prepared not even a single meal for the Tsar. He then worked for Princess Catherine Bagration, then for Lord Stewart again in Vienna, and then returned to Paris where he expected to work for Prince Esterházy, but the Prince never arrived in Paris.Paul Metzner, ''Crescendo of the virtuoso'', 1998, , p. 69

He was chef to the banker James Mayer Rothschild from 1824 to 1829.

Carême died in his Paris house on the Rue Neuve Saint Roche at the age of 48, due perhaps to many years inhaling the toxic fumes of the coal burning stoves over which he cooked. He is remembered as the founder of the concept of ''haute cuisine'' and is interred in the Montmartre Cemetery in Paris.

Influence

In his first major position, Carême worked as ''chef de cuisine'' to Talleyrand, who encouraged Carême in the development of a new refined food style using herbs, fresh vegetables, and simplified sauces with few ingredients. Talleyrand became a famous host during the Congress of Vienna— by the time the Congress disbanded, not only the map of Europe but also the culinary tastes of its upper classes had been thoroughly revised.

Carême's impact on culinary matters ranged from the trivial to the theoretical. He is credited with creating the standard chef's hat, the ''toque'', the creation of new sauces and dishes, and a classification of all sauces into groups based on four mother sauces. He is also frequently credited with replacing the practice of ''service à la française'' (serving all dishes at once) with ''service à la russe'' (serving each dish in the order printed on the menu) after he returned from service in the Russian court, but others say he was a diehard supporter of ''service à la française''.

Works by Carême

Carême wrote several books on cookery, above all the encyclopedic ''L'Art de la Cuisine Française'' (5 vols, 1833–34, of which he had completed three before his death), which included, aside from hundreds of recipes, plans for menus and opulent table settings, a history of French cookery, and instructions for organizing kitchens.

* ''Le Pâtissier royal parisien, ou Traité élémentaire et pratique de la pâtisserie moderne, suivi d'observations utiles au progrès de cet art, et d'une revue critique des grands bals de 18
* ''Le Maître d'hôtel français, ou Parallèle de la cuisine ancienne et moderne, considéré sous rapport de l'ordonnance des menus selon les quatre saisons.'' (Paris, 2 vols. 1822)
* ''Projets d'architecture pour l'embellissement de Sainte Petersburg.'' (Paris, 1821)
* ''Projets d'architecture pour l'embellissement de Paris.'' (Paris, 1826)
* ''Le Pâtissier pittoresque, précédé d'un traité des cinq ordres d'architecture'' (Paris, 1828; 4th edition, Paris, 1842)
* ''Le Cuisinier parisien, Deuxième édition, revue, corrigée et augmentée.'' (Paris, 1828)
* ''L'Art de la cuisine française au dix-neuvième siècle. Traité élémentaire et pratique.'' (Volumes 1–5. ork completed after Carême's death by Armand Plumerey.Paris, 1833–1847)
* ''The royal Parisian pastrycook and confectioner'' (rom the original of Carême, edited by John PorterLondon, 1834)
* ''French Cookery, Comprising l'Art de la cuisine française; Le Pâtissier royal; Le Cuisinier parisien... ''( ranslated by William HallLondon, 1836)

References

Further reading

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* Patrick Rambourg, ''Histoire de la cuisine et de la gastronomie françaises'', Paris, Ed. Perrin (coll. tempus n° 359), 2010, 381 pages.

External links

"Antonin Careme: The First Celebrity Chef: Biography Highlights Career of a 19th-Century Culinary Star"
''All Things Considered'', 25 May 2004.
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Careme, Marie-Antoine
1784 births
1833 deaths
Burials at Montmartre Cemetery
Chefs from Paris
French cuisine
French food writers