Mamianqun (), also known as (), sometimes simply referred as '
apron
' (), a generic term in English to refer to any
Chinese-style skirt, or 'paired apron
' in English although they are not
apron
An apron is a garment that is worn over other clothing to cover the front of the body. The word comes from old French ''napron'' meaning a small piece of cloth, however over time "a napron" became "an apron", through a linguistics process cal ...
s as defined in the dictionary, is a type of (), a
traditional Chinese skirt worn by the
Han Chinese
The Han Chinese () or Han people (), are an East Asian ethnic group native to China. They constitute the world's largest ethnic group, making up about 18% of the global population and consisting of various subgroups speaking distinctive va ...
women as lower garment item in
and is one of the main representatives of ancient Chinese-style skirts. It originated in the
Song
A song is a musical composition intended to be performed by the human voice. This is often done at distinct and fixed pitches (melodies) using patterns of sound and silence. Songs contain various forms, such as those including the repetitio ...
and
Liao dynasties and became popular due to its functionality and its aesthetics style.
It continued to be worn in the
Yuan,
Ming
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last ort ...
, and
Qing dynasties
The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing,, was a Manchu-led imperial dynasty of China and the last orthodox dynasty in Chinese history. It emerged from the Later Jin dynasty founded by the Jianzhou Jurchens, a Tungusic-speaki ...
where it was a typical style of skirt for women
and was favoured for its unique aesthetic style and functionality.
Following the fall of the Qing dynasty, the continued to be worn in the
Republic of China
Taiwan, officially the Republic of China (ROC), is a country in East Asia, at the junction of the East and South China Seas in the northwestern Pacific Ocean, with the People's Republic of China (PRC) to the northwest, Japan to the northeast ...
, and only disappeared in the 1920s and 1930s
following the increased popularity of the
cheongsam
''Cheongsam'' (, ), also known as the ''qipao'' () and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often see ...
.
As a type of ,
Chinese opera
Traditional Chinese opera (), or ''Xiqu'', is a form of musical theatre in China with roots going back to the early periods in China. It is an amalgamation of various art forms that existed in ancient China, and evolved gradually over more tha ...
costumes, the maintains its long tradition and continues to be worn nowadays.
In the 21st century, the regained popularity with the emergence of the
Hanfu movement.
The has experienced various
fashion
Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashion in ...
changes throughout history.
It was typically paired with , Chinese
trousers
Trousers (British English), slacks, or pants are an item of clothing worn from the waist to anywhere between the knees and the ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth extending across both legs as in robes, skirts, and dr ...
and Chinese jackets,
typically either the or .
Etymology
The term () is composed of three Chinese characters: 《》, which literally means '
horse
The horse (''Equus ferus caballus'') is a domesticated, one-toed, hoofed mammal. It belongs to the taxonomic family Equidae and is one of two extant subspecies of ''Equus ferus''. The horse has evolved over the past 45 to 55 million y ...
'; 《》, which literally means "
face
The face is the front of an animal's head that features the eyes, nose and mouth, and through which animals express many of their emotions. The face is crucial for human identity, and damage such as scarring or developmental deformities may aff ...
"; and 《》, which literally means "
skirt
A skirt is the lower part of a dress or a separate outer garment that covers a person from the waist downwards.
At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of fabric (such as pareos). However, most skirts are fi ...
".
In some 19th century French publications, the were sometimes described as "deux jupes plissés" ().
The name ''Paired apron'' has sometimes been used in English literature to refer to the due to its construction of using two overlapping panels of fabric tied to a single waistband forming a single wrap skirt which is tied around the waist,
like an
apron
An apron is a garment that is worn over other clothing to cover the front of the body. The word comes from old French ''napron'' meaning a small piece of cloth, however over time "a napron" became "an apron", through a linguistics process cal ...
. The term ''Paired apron'' was coined by John Vollmer
in the second half of the 20th century and can be found as early as 1980s.
Cultural significance and functionality
The represents an important aesthetic and cultural concept in the life history of Chinese women as it is representative of the
Zen
Zen ( zh, t=禪, p=Chán; ja, text= 禅, translit=zen; ko, text=선, translit=Seon; vi, text=Thiền) is a school of Mahayana Buddhism that originated in China during the Tang dynasty, known as the Chan School (''Chánzong'' 禪宗), and ...
aesthetic concept of "despising structure, emphasizing decoration, implicitly natural, and releasing the body"; this concept differs from the Western concept of emphasizing the structure and draping of the human body.
These skirts were only worn by Chinese women and were not worn by the
Manchu
The Manchus (; ) are a Tungusic East Asian ethnic group native to Manchuria in Northeast Asia. They are an officially recognized ethnic minority in China and the people from whom Manchuria derives its name. The Later Jin (1616–1636) and ...
women of the ruling class during the
Qing dynasty
The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing,, was a Manchu-led imperial dynasty of China and the last orthodox dynasty in Chinese history. It emerged from the Later Jin dynasty founded by the Jianzhou Jurchens, a Tungusic-speak ...
.
In the Qing dynasty, the were also decorated with
auspicious ornaments and patterns; these auspicious ornaments and pattern reflected the appropriate situational context and the social occasions in which its wearer partook; the colours and ornaments used in the also had to be appropriate for the occasion and sometimes even reflected the interpersonal relationship between people during an important event, such as a wedding, and/or the social hierarchy between women in a household; e.g. a principal wife of the head of a household would wear a red skirt decorated with a Chinese dragon while a secondary wife was not allowed to wear red and had to wear green instead as red colour was an exclusive right for the first wife according to the legal code of the Qing dynasty.
Due to the unique overlapping construction of the skirt, there were openings at the front and back of the skirt which facilitated
horse-riding
Equestrianism (from Latin , , , 'horseman', 'horse'), commonly known as horse riding (Commonwealth English) or horseback riding (American English), includes the disciplines of riding, driving, and vaulting. This broad description includes the ...
;
this characteristic would also allow for greater freedom of movement when walking, which was necessary for Chinese women who had
bound feet
Foot binding, or footbinding, was the Chinese custom of breaking and tightly binding the feet of young girls in order to change their shape and size. Feet altered by footbinding were known as lotus feet, and the shoes made for these feet were kno ...
who were walking with small and
shuffling
Shuffling is a procedure used to randomize a deck of playing cards to provide an element of chance in card games. Shuffling is often followed by a cut, to help ensure that the shuffler has not manipulated the outcome.
__TOC__
Techniques
Overha ...
steps; the need for this kind of functional skirt when walking did not arise until the Song dynasty when foot binding became popular.
The pleats of pleats in
Chinese skirts and its association to foot biding practice also appeared in European literature, such as in ''Intimate China: The Chinese as I Have Seen Them'' of 1899 by
Mrs. Archibald Little:
Moreover, the fullness of the skirt created by the side panels provided enough space to accommodate the traditional loose garments of Chinese women.
Construction and design
There are also many records of the in European publication dating approximately mid-19th century which described the skirts of Chinese women, such as in ''La revue des deux mondes'': volume 71 dating from the 1846, which describes the as being a "deux jupes plissés" (), which is covered with luxurious designs; its skirt length is above the ankle-level allowing for the exposure of the large embroidered , Chinese trousers; the skirt is tied around the waist of its wearer.
Similar descriptions were found in the ''Voyage en Chine'' of 1847.
Main characteristics
The is composed of two overlapping panel of fabrics which wrapped around the lower body.
Each of these two panels were identical and formed half of the skirt, which were then sewn together a single waistband
creating the overlapping front.
A is a total of four flat and straight panels are known as () or ();
there are two flat panels at the right and left side of each panel of fabric. When worn, only two out of the four flat panels are visible on the wearer's body; the visible panels are seen located at the front and back of the skirt;
The were typically tied with ties which extended beyond the skirt's width at the waistband.
Skirt length
The historical was made long enough to cover the , Chinese trousers, which were worn under the skirt.
However, variations in skirt length may have existed during the Qing dynasty as European accounts prior to the 1850s have sometimes described it as being above the ankle level and allowed the exposure of the trousers in 1846s
while others have described it as being long enough to cover the feet in 1849s.
Pleats, gores, and trims
The historical is typically decorated with
pleat
A pleat (plait in older English) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference.
Pleats are cat ...
ed side panels,
gores, which can also vary in styles and types.
The use pleats, gores, and sometimes
godet on the left side of the skirt allowed greater ease of movements when walking, allowing Chinese women to swing gracefully as they walked.
The
trims which decorated of the Qing dynasty did not only impacted the overall appearance of the skirt, but also influenced the way it would move as the wearer takes walk.
For example, depending on how the each trims were sewed to the edge of the pleats, the pleats may move independently from each other or create "
ripple
Ripple may refer to:
Science and technology
* Capillary wave, commonly known as ripple, a wave traveling along the phase boundary of a fluid
** Ripple, more generally a disturbance, for example of spacetime in gravitational waves
* Ripple (electri ...
effects".
Types of pleats
Types of pleats used in the historical : narrow pleats in honeycomb pattern or in fish-scale pattern,
knife pleats; and
box pleat
A pleat (plait in older English) is a type of fold formed by doubling textile, fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference.
Pleat ...
.
The pleats could also be a combination of knife pleats which radiate outwards to the left and right of a central box pleat located at the middle region of side hips.
These types of pleats used in the contrasted from the pleats used in the wide skirt of Western ladies as described by Samuel Wells William in 1849:
History: evolution and style variations
![Thin silk skirt, unearthed form Mawangdui Tomb](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0c/Thin_silk_skirt%2C_unearthed_form_Mawangdui_Tomb.png)
Wrap-around skirt artifacts worn by Chinese women, known under the generic term , appeared as early as the
Zhou and
Han dynasties.
Pleated skirts also appeared early on in China; according to the popular story, in the Han dynasty, pleated skirts became in vogue as women imitated the ripped skirt of
Zhao Feiyan (? – 1 BC), a legendary dancer who later became an empress, who had her skirt ripped when she was saved from a fall by Feng Wufang. The term Mamianqun first appeared in the "History of the Ming Palace": "The drag and drop, the rear placket is continuous, and the two sides have swings, the front placket is two sections, and the bottom has horse face pleats, which rise to both sides. "But the history of the Mamianqun can be traced back to the Song Dynasty, because the skirt of the Song Dynasty already had the Mamian‘s shape of the Mamianqun. However, the prototypes of the originated in the
Song
A song is a musical composition intended to be performed by the human voice. This is often done at distinct and fixed pitches (melodies) using patterns of sound and silence. Songs contain various forms, such as those including the repetitio ...
(960 –1279 AD) and
Liao dynasties (916 – 1125 AD).
The experienced several changes of style, colours, fabric materials, and patterns over the dynasties.
The tailoring of the side panels, construction, and decoration of the skirt reflect changes in social and economic conditions during the time in which the skirts were made.
Song and Liao dynasties
During the
Song dynasty
The Song dynasty (; ; 960–1279) was an imperial dynasty of China that began in 960 and lasted until 1279. The dynasty was founded by Emperor Taizu of Song following his usurpation of the throne of the Later Zhou. The Song conquered the rest ...
, the first appeared and apparently could have absorbed some influences from the clothing worn by China's nomadic neighbours.
There are two forms of wrapped skirts which are related both to the early prototypes of the and to the which continued to be used in the
Qing dynasty
The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing,, was a Manchu-led imperial dynasty of China and the last orthodox dynasty in Chinese history. It emerged from the Later Jin dynasty founded by the Jianzhou Jurchens, a Tungusic-speak ...
. Those two forms of wrapped skirts were found in the Song dynasty tomb of Huang Sheng in
Fuzhou
Fuzhou (; , Fuzhounese: Hokchew, ''Hók-ciŭ''), alternately romanized as Foochow, is the capital and one of the largest cities in Fujian province, China. Along with the many counties of Ningde, those of Fuzhou are considered to constitute t ...
,
Fujian Province
Fujian (; alternately romanized as Fukien or Hokkien) is a province on the southeastern coast of China. Fujian is bordered by Zhejiang to the north, Jiangxi to the west, Guangdong to the south, and the Taiwan Strait to the east. Its cap ...
.
The first prototype skirt found in the Tomb of Huang Sheng was made of plain silk with a reinforcing layer at the centre of the skirt and patterned borders on one side, on the hem, and also on one side of the central panel.
It was made of 2 pieces of fabric which overlapped at the central region at the front and the back; the openings of the skirt allowed horseback riding.
It also had a wide waistband and was closed with ties;
the waistband was made from fabric which was different from the one used in the skirt.
However, the skirt was similar to a wrap-around skirt and had no pleats, thus restricting movement when compared to the pleated of later centuries;
this form of skirt is known as (), also known as the (), or ''whirling skirt'' in English.
According to the 《》of the Song dynasty:
Horse riding
Equestrianism (from Latin , , , 'horseman', 'horse'), commonly known as horse riding (Commonwealth English) or horseback riding (American English), includes the disciplines of riding, Driving (horse), driving, and Equestrian vaulting, vaulting ...
and donkey riding was common in the Song dynasty as means of transportation; according to
Wen Yanbo of the
Northern Song dynasty
Northern may refer to the following:
Geography
* North, a point in direction
* Northern Europe, the northern part or region of Europe
* Northern Highland, a region of Wisconsin, United States
* Northern Province, Sri Lanka
* Northern Range, a ra ...
, "''upper-class families in town and countryside
..all raised horses and rode them instead of walking''" while in the ''History Narrated at Ease'', volume 3, it is also recorded that "''donkeys were for rent in the capital, and thus people often meet each other in the street on donkeys''".
Donkey riding was not uncommon for Chinese women in this period. For example, Chinese women rode donkeys while playing , which was variation of the ancient version of
polo
Polo is a ball game played on horseback, a traditional field sport and one of the world's oldest known team sports. The game is played by two opposing teams with the objective of scoring using a long-handled wooden mallet to hit a small hard ...
, (); the was a popular form of physical activity in the Song and Tang dynasties, and was often played by women and children as they perceived donkeys as being smaller, less violent and more manageable than horses. Illustration of two elderly women riding donkeys and wearing veiled-hat, known as , can be found in the Song dynasty painting《''
Along the River During the Qingming Festival
''Along the River During the Qingming Festival'' (''Qingming Shanghe Tu'') is a handscroll painting by the Song dynasty painter Zhang Zeduan (1085–1145) and copied many times in the following centuries. It captures the daily life of people and ...
''》. Similarly, a design of two-panel skirts worn by imperial concubines of the Southern Song dynasty during the reign of
Emperor Lizong
Emperor Lizong of Song (26 January 1205 – 16 November 1264), personal name Zhao Yun, was the 14th emperor of the Song dynasty of China and the fifth emperor of the Southern Song dynasty. He reigned from 1224 to 1264.
His original name was ...
, known as (), can be found in the .
The was also recorded as () in the 《》of the
Ming dynasty
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last ort ...
and () in the 《》of the
Qing dynasty
The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing,, was a Manchu-led imperial dynasty of China and the last orthodox dynasty in Chinese history. It emerged from the Later Jin dynasty founded by the Jianzhou Jurchens, a Tungusic-speak ...
. The was also derivative of the . Due to the novelty design of these skirts compared to the contemporary ordinary skirts of this period, they were considered as " ()".
The second prototype also comes from the Tomb of Huang Sheng; it was made of thin silk printed all over with large dots; this skirt was densely pleated except for the two sections at both edges of the skirt and the waistband was made of the same fabric as the skirt.
The pleats like the present-day were also found on the two sides of the skirt.
This form of skirt is currently referred as ().
Yuan dynasty
In the
Yuan dynasty
The Yuan dynasty (), officially the Great Yuan (; xng, , , literally "Great Yuan State"), was a Mongol-led imperial dynasty of China and a successor state to the Mongol Empire after its division. It was established by Kublai, the fifth ...
, the which was made of two fabrics and which could be found pleated appeared.
The waistband was made from fabric which was different from the one used in the skirt.
Ming dynasty
In the
Ming dynasty
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last ort ...
, the was made of two fabrics and was deeply pleated.
The waistband was made from fabric which was different from the one used in the skirt.
The style of the was considered as being pure and free of vulgarity.
Some women in the Ming dynasty also preferred light colours or white skirts as their favourite colours; this characteristic would later be transferred in the used on stage in
Peking opera
Peking opera, or Beijing opera (), is the most dominant form of Chinese opera, which combines music, vocal performance, mime, dance and acrobatics. It arose in Beijing in the mid-Qing dynasty (1644–1912) and became fully developed and recognize ...
.
It could also be decorated with a single or double , horizontal pattern, at the knee-level or at the hem of the skirt.
Qing dynasty
In the
Qing dynasty
The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing,, was a Manchu-led imperial dynasty of China and the last orthodox dynasty in Chinese history. It emerged from the Later Jin dynasty founded by the Jianzhou Jurchens, a Tungusic-speak ...
, Han Chinese women were allowed continue the dressing customs of the
Ming dynasty
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last ort ...
and were not forced to adopt the hairstyle and dress of the
Manchu
The Manchus (; ) are a Tungusic East Asian ethnic group native to Manchuria in Northeast Asia. They are an officially recognized ethnic minority in China and the people from whom Manchuria derives its name. The Later Jin (1616–1636) and ...
rulers under the policy.
Therefore, Han Chinese women in the Qing dynasty continued to preserve features in their dress and styles.
During this period, the was a fashionable garments. The style, however, progressively changed and the became more luxurious.
The panels of fabric were decorated with embroideries; however, they were typically only embroidered to where the
Chinese jackets would meet the skirt.
Compared to the skirts worn in the Ming dynasty, the skirts worn in the Qing dynasty also had a more structured appearance.
The tailoring of the did not show significant changes except for the side panels which started to show some variations in terms of width and number of
gores and the
pleat
A pleat (plait in older English) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference.
Pleats are cat ...
s techniques.
Style variations of the in the Qing dynasty included the (), which was also known as the 'moonlight skirt' and 'rainbow skirt' in English;
the (),
the (), and the (; also written as《》),
which gained their names based on their main characteristics and features differentiating them from other styles.
The waistband of the in this period was larger than those worn in the previous dynasties.
The wide waistband was without decoration; it was also made of different materials than the main skirt. It was typically made of cheaper fabric than the rest skirt as it was hidden by the upper garments.
The main material used in the making of the skirt was typically silk while the choice of fabric for the waistband was usually cotton or hemp; the use of such cheaper fabric over silken fabric was also functional as it prevented the skirt from slipping from slipping down its wearer's body.
The were also held by loops and buttons which were found inside the waistband.
Ties could also be used instead of loops and buttons.
Several historical in its variant styles are stored in museums in and outside of China.
File:Han women during the Manchu Qing dynasty.jpg, Han women wearing the mamianqun skirt, which inherited the Ming style of clothing, was also influenced by Qing-style patterns, 19th century.
File:Kinesiska figurer från 1800-talet - Hallwylska museet - 95991.tif, alt=, Female figurines wearing mamianqun, 19th century
File:Woman's apron, China, late 19th to early 20th century, silk, cotton, fur, golden thread, satin - Textile Museum of Canada - DSC00824.JPG, alt=, Mamianqun, Qing dynasty, late 19th to early 20th century
File:Skirt, woman's (AM 17527-10).jpg, alt=, Knot buttons and loops used on the waistband of a mamianqun.
The () was one of the most popular form of style variant in the Qing dynasty;
It appeared at least since the 17th century where it was recorded by Li Yu ():
The was a skirt made of 12 gores, in which each gore consists of a different coloured fabric.
It was sometimes decorated with ribbons and small bells.
The () appeared in the Qing dynasty during the
Qianlong
The Qianlong Emperor (25 September 17117 February 1799), also known by his temple name Emperor Gaozong of Qing, born Hongli, was the fifth Emperor of the Qing dynasty and the fourth Qing emperor to rule over China proper, reigning from 1735 t ...
(r. 1735–96) period no later than 1750.
According to author, Shaorong Yang, embroidered with
gold threads and made of damask was worn at the end of the Ming dynasty and at the beginning of the Qing dynasty.
It became the most popular style during the
Kangxi
The Kangxi Emperor (4 May 1654– 20 December 1722), also known by his temple name Emperor Shengzu of Qing, born Xuanye, was the third emperor of the Qing dynasty, and the second Qing emperor to rule over China proper, reigning from 1661 to 1 ...
(r. 1661–1722) and Qianlong period.
The was mostly worn by women who came from wealthy families, but women from less wealthy families may have possibly worn the as a wedding skirt.
This style continued even in the
Republic of China period.
The was characterized by long and narrow strips of fabric with sharp bottom ends which could be sewn to the waistband of the skirt.
The strips of fabric could be made of silk and satin and embroidered with different patterns.
The edges of these fabric strips could also be decorated with gold threads or
lace
Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is divided into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted o ...
, which would make the skirt appear very luxurious.
It was sometimes decorated with ribbons and small bells.
The (), also known as the (),
appeared in the late 19th century and became popular.
It was especially popular in Beijing in 1860s during the
Tongzhi era.
The continues to be worn by actors in
Peking opera
Peking opera, or Beijing opera (), is the most dominant form of Chinese opera, which combines music, vocal performance, mime, dance and acrobatics. It arose in Beijing in the mid-Qing dynasty (1644–1912) and became fully developed and recognize ...
.
The has two overlapping flat panels and side pleats;
its main characteristic is the use of hundreds of tiny pleats which are then secured with an overlay of horizontal stitches in a wave pattern dividing these pleats into sections; the overlapping of these pleats would then give the impression of fish scales patterns.
The impression of fish scale-like is where the name skirt gained its name.
The pleats can also be secured to the skirt through the use of hand-made
basting stitches on the inside in an alternating pattern; this would then create a
honeycomb
A honeycomb is a mass of Triangular prismatic honeycomb#Hexagonal prismatic honeycomb, hexagonal prismatic Beeswax, wax cells built by honey bees in their beehive, nests to contain their larvae and stores of honey and pollen.
beekeeping, Beekee ...
effect; this form of pleat effect were also referred as ''fish-scale pleating''.
The ( or ) was characterized with sharp
trims (typically black in colour) in the shape of ().
Traditional wedding skirt and official attire for women
The continued to be worn by Chinese brides who were allowed to follow the
Ming dynasty
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last ort ...
clothing customs; there wedding attire were in the style of the Ming dynasty's women court attire. The was also worn on formal occasions along with , Chinese trousers, and other forms of
Chinese jackets.
They were also used on festive occasions, such as family sacrificial rites and birthdays.
=
=
The might have been worn by women who came from less wealthy families as a wedding skirt on their wedding day.
=
=
The (), also known as in English, could appear in the form of a (and its variants). The formed part of the
traditional Chinese wedding dress
Traditional Chinese wedding dress is a collective term which refers to all the different forms and styles of traditional wedding attire worn by the Han Chinese when performing their marriage ceremony, including the traditional Chinese marriage. Th ...
attire. It was either red or green in colour; it was worn together with the , which is a loose , a Chinese jacket.
This skirt would be first worn on the wedding day of the bride; and following the wedding, she would have to wear it for any formal occasions.
The () was embroidered on the skirt; the was a creature which looked similar the (),
Chinese dragon
The Chinese dragon, also known as ''loong'', ''long'' or ''lung'', is a legendary creature in Chinese mythology, Chinese folklore, and Chinese culture at large. Chinese dragons have many Outline of life forms, animal-like forms such as Bixi (my ...
s, except that it had four claws instead of five and thus did not meet the contemporary definition of a .
Republic of China
![Woman in Hakka shirt in Toen 1930s](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ec/Woman_in_Hakka_shirt_in_Toen_1930s.jpg)
In the
Republic of China
Taiwan, officially the Republic of China (ROC), is a country in East Asia, at the junction of the East and South China Seas in the northwestern Pacific Ocean, with the People's Republic of China (PRC) to the northwest, Japan to the northeast ...
, the was still being worn by Han Chinese women even at the time when the
cheongsam
''Cheongsam'' (, ), also known as the ''qipao'' () and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often see ...
was created in 1920s.
However, the style also changed, and the eventually became unadorned
and became shorter in length.
In July 1912, the Senate published clear regulations on women's clothing known as () which had to continue the wearing tradition of the late Qing dynasty and did not break the thousand of years tradition of women dressing in :
21st century
In the 21st century, the Ming-style became a popular form of skirt for enthusiasts.
Modified, modern style
Ever since the beginning of the
Hanfu movement around the year 2003, more modified, modern-style variations of the based on the Ming dynasty design, such as shorter (e.g. above the knee, mid-calf, and ankle length), with pockets, have been developed over the past years by Chinese
Hanfu
''Hanfu'' () is the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an upper-body garment with a long outer skirt), the (an upper-body garment with a long underskirt ...
designers and Hanfu enthusiasts.
Some Hanfu enthusiasts sometimes combined the wearing of with a
T-shirt
A T-shirt (also spelled tee shirt), or tee, is a style of fabric shirt named after the T shape of its body and sleeves. Traditionally, it has short sleeves and a round neckline, known as a ''crew neck'', which lacks a collar. T-shirts are general ...
or
blouse
A blouse (blau̇s, 'blau̇z, ) is a loose-fitting upper garment that was worn by workmen, peasants, artists, women, and children.The Concise Oxford English Dictionary It is typically gathered at the waist or hips (by tight hem, pleats, parter ...
, and other contemporary garments, as an alternative to daily outwear and in opposition to the complete traditional style which looks more formal in style.
Influences and derivatives
In Chinese opera
The used as a type of , Chinese skirt, in ,
Chinese opera
Traditional Chinese opera (), or ''Xiqu'', is a form of musical theatre in China with roots going back to the early periods in China. It is an amalgamation of various art forms that existed in ancient China, and evolved gradually over more tha ...
costumes.
In Chinese opera, the is often worn with a or a ; this combination reflects one of the most common style of attire in the
Ming dynasty
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last ort ...
consisting a knee-length, () over a pleated skirt.
Styles of pleats used in the show the combination of a central box pleat with knife pleats radiating outwards at the right and left side of the central box pleats; the pleats are not found on the grain-line, allowing the creating of a slight flared skirt.
The size of the pleats, as well as its depth, reflect the different roles types of the actors and are used as distinguishing indicators.
For instances, with relatively few pleats and/or wider pleats could be worn by .
If tighter pleats were used, it was an indication of a person with a high status as tighter pleats requires more fabric.
In , a traditional form of used is the of the Qing dynasty.
It also inherited characteristics of the Ming dynasty through its usage of light colours or white skirts, which were the preferred colours in the Ming dynasty.
The () is a two-pieces garment set of attire which was designed to look like a
traditional Chinese wedding dress
Traditional Chinese wedding dress is a collective term which refers to all the different forms and styles of traditional wedding attire worn by the Han Chinese when performing their marriage ceremony, including the traditional Chinese marriage. Th ...
; it was developed in
modern China
The earliest known written records of the history of China date from as early as 1250 BC, from the Shang dynasty (c. 1600–1046 BC), during the reign of king Wu Ding. Ancient historical texts such as the ''Book of Documents'' (early chapter ...
and became popular in 2001 when it was popularized by when
Zhou Xun
Zhou Xun (, born 18 October 1974) is a Chinese actress and singer. She is regarded as one of the Four Dan Actresses of China. She gained international fame for her roles in '' Suzhou River'' (2000) and ''Balzac and the Little Chinese Seamstress'' ...
, the actress who played the role of ''Xiu He'', in the
Chinese television drama Chinese television dramas ( Simplified Chinese: 中国电视连续剧), sometimes colloquially known as C-dramas, are television dramas originating from China or the Greater China region. China produces more television dramas than any other countr ...
《》(), thus gaining its contemporary name from name of the television drama character.
The is a modern recreation version of the Qing dynasty wedding which was worn by the Han Chinese women,
composed of a lower and an upper garment.
The used in the is influenced by the historical of the Qing dynasty, especially those used in the late years of the Qing dynasty in the 1910s,
which was used as part of the bridal attire.
This wedding skirt is also called .
In general, the design and construction of the is not bound by any traditional clothing making rules.
The used in the can either be an
A-line, pleated skirt
or a pleated
circle skirt.
It has panels of flat fabric, which is embellished with decorative designs which uses an embroidery technique known as ().
Compared to the historical which has () or () created by the overlapping characteristics of the skirt, the flat and straight panels of fabric used in the are added on top of the pleated skirt, like a pendulum; it can also have more than two visible flat panels.
Apparition and media
20st century
The Qing dynasty made its apparition in the magazine
Vogue
Vogue may refer to:
Business
* ''Vogue'' (magazine), a US fashion magazine
** British ''Vogue'', a British fashion magazine
** ''Vogue Arabia'', an Arab fashion magazine
** ''Vogue Australia'', an Australian fashion magazine
** ''Vogue China'', ...
published on the 15th December 2011 where it was presented as forming part of the "Boudoir Set" along with the Qing dynasty-style and Chinese shoes; Vogue also recommended that people shopped in Chinatown for the "Boudoir" set where it was a common place for Chinese women to wear the .
Princess Diana's
A red, mid-calf Qing dynasty -style with
chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemums (), sometimes called mums or chrysanths, are flowering plants of the genus ''Chrysanthemum'' in the family Asteraceae. They are native to East Asia and northeastern Europe. Most species originate from East Asia and the center ...
embroideries was worn by
Princess Diana
Diana, Princess of Wales (born Diana Frances Spencer; 1 July 1961 – 31 August 1997) was a member of the British royal family. She was the first wife of King Charles III (then Prince of Wales) and mother of Princes William and Harry. Her ac ...
on the 23rd February 1981 prior to their official engagement announcement when she posed with
Prince Charles
Charles III (Charles Philip Arthur George; born 14 November 1948) is King of the United Kingdom and the 14 other Commonwealth realms. He was the longest-serving heir apparent and Prince of Wales and, at age 73, became the oldest person to ...
at
Clarence House
Clarence House is a royal residence on The Mall in the City of Westminster, London. It was built in 1825–1827, adjacent to St James's Palace, for the Duke of Clarence, the future king William IV.
Over the years, it has undergone much exte ...
. The use of auspicious red colour was in line with
Chinese wedding tradition; however, the skirt was not considered fully auspicious according to Chinese beliefs and traditions as it lacked the presence of a white belt () and instead a red one was used.
A with a white coloured belt was usually worn by Chinese brides to symbolize "to grow old together", following the Chinese idiom () which literally means , which Princess Diana's skirt lacked of.
As a result, based on the Chinese wedding beliefs, the of Princess Diana did not conform to the () and was instead considered ().
21st century
Following the
Hanfu movement, the re-appeared in several fashion magazines, including the
Women's Wear Daily
''Women's Wear Daily'' (also known as ''WWD'') is a fashion-industry trade journal often referred to as the "Bible of fashion".Horyn, Cathy"Breaking Fashion News With a Provocative Edge" ''The New York Times''. (August 20, 1999). It provides infor ...
published on the 25th November 2020, in
Vogue
Vogue may refer to:
Business
* ''Vogue'' (magazine), a US fashion magazine
** British ''Vogue'', a British fashion magazine
** ''Vogue Arabia'', an Arab fashion magazine
** ''Vogue Australia'', an Australian fashion magazine
** ''Vogue China'', ...
published on the 8th March 2021, in the
Harper's Bazaar
''Harper's Bazaar'' is an American monthly women's fashion magazine. It was first published in New York City on November 2, 1867, as the weekly ''Harper's Bazar''. ''Harper's Bazaar'' is published by Hearst and considers itself to be the st ...
on the16th July 2021,
The also appeared in the animated film
Turning Red
''Turning Red'' is a 2022 American computer-animated fantasy comedy film produced by Pixar Animation Studios and distributed by Walt Disney Studios Motion Pictures. It was directed by Domee Shi in her feature directorial debut, written by Shi ...
(2022) by Domee Shi.
Dior controversy 2022
In 2022, French luxury fashion house
Dior
Christian Dior SE (), commonly known as Dior (stylized DIOR), is a French Luxury goods, luxury fashion house controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH, the world's largest luxury group. Dior itself holds ...
fell under heavy public criticism in China after the release of a new black flared, pleated midi-skirt for its Fall 2022 collection which was officially branded as its "hallmark silhouette".
This new skirt appeared earlier in an April 2022 runaway in Seoul, and according to the post-show notes of
Maria Grazia Chiuri
Maria Grazia Chiuri (; born February 2, 1964) is an Italian fashion designer. After stints working at Fendi and Valentino, Chiuri was named creative director at Dior.
Biography
Her maternal grandfather died during the Second World War, leaving he ...
, Italian fashion designer and Dior's art director, the design of Fall 2022 collection was inspired by school uniforms and aimed to pay homage to women who contributed to the success of
Christian Dior
Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Christian Dior SE, which is now owned by parent company LVMH. His fashion houses a ...
, which included his own sister
Catherine Dior
Ginette Dior (2 August 1917 – 17 June 2008), better known as Catherine Dior, was a French resistance fighter during World War II. Involved with the Franco-Polish intelligence unit F2 from November 1941, she was arrested in Paris in July 1944 by ...
.
The new Dior skirt bore close resemblance to the .
It was a wrap-around skirt, which was made of two panels of fabric which was sewn to the waistband of the skirt; it featured four flat panels with no pleats (one at each side of each panel of fabric) and pleats; it was constructed in an overlapping fashion such that there was two overlapping flat surface at the back and front and side pleats when worn.
On its official website page, this skirt was described as "a hallmark Dior silhouette, the mid-length skirt is updated with a new elegant and modern variation
...
On its official website page, this skirt was described as "a hallmark Dior silhouette, the mid-length skirt is updated with a new elegant and modern variation
.. in English.
In July 2022, Chinese netizens and
Hanfu enthusiasts took notice of the skirt and observed that the new Dior skirt had the same construction of the historical of the Ming dynasty with only its length as its main difference from its orthodox version being a midi-skirt.
However, the 21st century modern-style based on the Ming dynasty design can also be found in mid-calf length.
Dior was thus accused of
plagiarism
Plagiarism is the fraudulent representation of another person's language, thoughts, ideas, or expressions as one's own original work.From the 1995 '' Random House Compact Unabridged Dictionary'': use or close imitation of the language and thought ...
as the new skirt was deemed to be "a copycat of a traditional Chinese garment"
and of
cultural appropriation
Cultural appropriation is the inappropriate or unacknowledged adoption of an element or elements of one culture or identity by members of another culture or identity. This can be controversial when members of a dominant culture appropriate from ...
by Chinese
netizen
The term netizen is a portmanteau of the English words ''internet'' and '' citizen'', as in a "citizen of the net" or "net citizen". It describes a person actively involved in online communities or the Internet in general. s and official media outlets, such as the
Global Times
The ''Global Times'' () is a daily tabloid newspaper under the auspices of the Chinese Communist Party's flagship newspaper, the ''People's Daily'', commenting on international issues from a Chinese ultra-nationalistic perspective. The publi ...
and the
People's Daily
The ''People's Daily'' () is the official newspaper of the Central Committee of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP). The newspaper provides direct information on the policies and viewpoints of the CCP. In addition to its main Chinese-language ...
,
for not acknowledge the (possible) Chinese origins of the new Dior skirt.
According to the ''Journal du Luxe'', a French news media, the adoption of the cut and construction design by Dior was not the main issue of the debate and critics but rather on the absence of transparency surrounding the origins of the inspirations behind the skirt design.
Some Chinese netizens also criticized Dior on
Weibo Weibo may refer to:
* Microblogging in China, or China-based microblogging services (), including:
** NetEase Weibo (), launched by NetEase
** People's Weibo (), launched by ''People's Daily''
** Phoenix Weibo (), launched by Phoenix Television
** W ...
with comments, such as "Was Dior inspired by
Taobao
Taobao () is a Chinese online shopping platform. It is headquartered in Hangzhou and is owned by Alibaba. According to Alexa rank, it is the eighth most-visited website globally in 2021. Taobao.com was registered on April 21, 2003 by Alibaba Cl ...
?"
while another
Instagram
Instagram is a photo and video sharing social networking service owned by American company Meta Platforms. The app allows users to upload media that can be edited with filters and organized by hashtags and geographical tagging. Posts can ...
user commented on the official Dior account:
Under these accusations, Dior did not immediately respond to a request for comment
and decided to stop this sale in the Mainland China's website to avoid controversy.
On July 23, about 50 Chinese overseas students in Paris made a protest in front of a Dior flagship store at
Champs-Élysée, they used the slogan "Dior, Stop Cultural appropriation" and "This is a traditional Chinese dress" written with a mixture of French and English, and call for other overseas students from the United Kingdom and the United States for relay, the
Communist Youth League of China
The Communist Youth League of China (CYLC), also known as the Young Communist League of China or simply the Communist Youth League (CYL), is a youth movement of the People's Republic of China for youth between the ages of 14 and 28, run by the ...
also expressed support for this protest. Similar protests are expected to take place worldwide, such as in
New York
New York most commonly refers to:
* New York City, the most populous city in the United States, located in the state of New York
* New York (state), a state in the northeastern United States
New York may also refer to:
Film and television
* '' ...
,
United States
The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 states, a federal district, five major unincorporated territorie ...
, and
London
London is the capital and largest city of England and the United Kingdom, with a population of just under 9 million. It stands on the River Thames in south-east England at the head of a estuary down to the North Sea, and has been a majo ...
,
United Kingdom
The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, commonly known as the United Kingdom (UK) or Britain, is a country in Europe, off the north-western coast of the continental mainland. It comprises England, Scotland, Wales and North ...
.
Related content
*
Ruqun
(;) is a set of attire in which consists of a short jacket typically called () worn under a long Chinese skirt called (). However, when use as a general term, can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment a ...
*
Qun
(), referred as () prior to the Han dynasty, () and (), and sometimes referred as apron in English even though they are not apron as defined in the Dictionary, English dictionary, is a generic term which refers to the Chinese skirts used in , ...
*
Baidiequn
See also
*
Hanfu
''Hanfu'' () is the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an upper-body garment with a long outer skirt), the (an upper-body garment with a long underskirt ...
*
List of Hanfu
A list of Hanfu, the historical clothing of the Han Chinese, in category of different clothing style. This page also addresses provides a list of garments. Informal wear
Types include tops and bottoms, long skirt, and one-piece robes that wrap a ...
*
Maweiqun - an underskirt introduced in Ming dynasty China from Joseon
Gallery
File:Ming2a (yuanling banbi).jpg, alt=, Illustration of a Ming dynasty
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last ort ...
woman wearing a mamianqun in Philippines
The Philippines (; fil, Pilipinas, links=no), officially the Republic of the Philippines ( fil, Republika ng Pilipinas, links=no),
* bik, Republika kan Filipinas
* ceb, Republika sa Pilipinas
* cbk, República de Filipinas
* hil, Republ ...
, in the Boxer Codex
The ''Boxer Codex'' is a late sixteenth century Spanish manuscript that was produced in the Philippines. The document contains seventy-five colored illustrations of the peoples of China, the Philippines, Java, the Moluccas, the Ladrones, and Sia ...
, 1590.
File:Chinese Bride in Batavia WDL2912.jpg, alt=, Chinese bride in Batavia, 1870
File:KITLV - 103780 - Chinese women in Singapore - circa 1890.tif, alt=, Chinese woman in Singapore
Singapore (), officially the Republic of Singapore, is a sovereign island country and city-state in maritime Southeast Asia. It lies about one degree of latitude () north of the equator, off the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula, borde ...
, c. 1890
File:Gurabai Karmarkar, Hu King Eng, and Mary H. Platt, members of the Class of 1892 at the Woman's Medical College of Pennsylvania.jpg, alt=, Hu King Eng, members of class 1892 at the Woman's Medical College of Pennsylvania
The Woman's Medical College of Pennsylvania (WMCP) was founded in 1850, and was the second medical institution in the world established to train women in medicine to earn the M.D. degree. The New England Female Medical College had been established ...
File:Dr. Hu King Eng. of Liangau, photo- P. Elehillman, 914 Arch St., Philadelphia - P. Elehillman LCCN2014680976.tif, alt=, Dr. Hu King Eng, Philadelphia, unknown date
File:Mrs. Wing Sing and son, Montreal, QC, 1890-95 (3295535934).jpg, alt=, Mrs. Wing Sing, Montreal
Montreal ( ; officially Montréal, ) is the List of the largest municipalities in Canada by population, second-most populous city in Canada and List of towns in Quebec, most populous city in the Provinces and territories of Canada, Canadian ...
, Quebec
Quebec ( ; )According to the Canadian government, ''Québec'' (with the acute accent) is the official name in Canadian French and ''Quebec'' (without the accent) is the province's official name in Canadian English is one of the thirtee ...
, 1890- 1895.
File:Chinese mother, daughter and children in fine costume (CHS-2138) (cropped).jpg, alt=, Chinese mother and daughter wearing mamianqun, Los Angeles
Los Angeles ( ; es, Los Ángeles, link=no , ), often referred to by its initials L.A., is the largest city in the state of California and the second most populous city in the United States after New York City, as well as one of the world' ...
, United States
The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 states, a federal district, five major unincorporated territorie ...
, c. 1900
File:Young Chinese woman in Chinese dress, ca.1920 (CHS-234).jpg, alt=, Young Chinese woman, Los Angeles
Los Angeles ( ; es, Los Ángeles, link=no , ), often referred to by its initials L.A., is the largest city in the state of California and the second most populous city in the United States after New York City, as well as one of the world' ...
, United States
The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 states, a federal district, five major unincorporated territorie ...
, c. 1920
File:Concert de musique chinoise Nanguan (Auditorium du musée Guimet) (8026561873).jpg, alt=, Concert de musique chinoise Nanguan, Auditorium du musée Guimet
The Guimet Museum (full name in french: Musée national des arts asiatiques-Guimet; MNAAG; ) is an art museum located at 6, place d'Iéna in the XVIe arrondissement, 16th arrondissement of Paris, France. Literally translated into English, its ful ...
, France
France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of Overseas France, overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic, Pacific Ocean, Pac ...
, 25 septembre 2012
Notes
References
External links
Mamianqun worn by Princess Diana in 1981{{Types of Han Chinese clothing
Chinese traditional clothing