Garment Collars In Hanfu

Garment collars in are diverse and come in several shapes, including (cross-collars, overlapping collars at the front which closed on the right or left sides), , , , , . Some forms of collars were indigenous to China while others had been adopted from the of other non-Han Chinese ethnic minorities and/or from the clothing worn by foreigners.

Cultural significance

'/ right lapel

Chinese robes, such as the ' and the ' as a general term, as well as Chinese jackets must typically cover the right part of their garment. Styles of garments which overlapping at the front and closes to the right side are known as ' (). The closure is a style which originated in China and can be traced back to the Shang dynasty. The is also an important symbol of the Han Chinese ethnicity. The closure was eventually adopted by other ethnic minorities and was also spread to neighbouring countries, such as Korea and Japan.

'/ left lapel

Chinese people also wore another form of closure known as (), which generally refers the way garment overlaps on the front, like the closure, but instead closes on the left side. According to the 《》, a form of , known as (), was a robe with a closure while the coat known as (; sometimes also referred as ), typically used as part of the , was also a () according to the .

The use of , however, was typically associated with funeral practices. This can also be found in the chapter 《》of the 《》:

According to ancient Chinese beliefs, the only moment the Han Chinese were supposed to use was when they dressed their deceased. This funeral practice was rooted in ancient Chinese beliefs; especially in the Yin and Yang theory, where it is believed that the left side is the and stands for life whereas the right side is the which stands for death.

Therefore, according to the Yin and Yang theory, the left lapel of a garment needs to be found outside (which is in the form of closure) to indicate that the power of the aspect is suppressing the aspect, which thus symbolizes the clothing of living people. On the other hand, the is a representation of the aspect surpassing the aspect, and thus, garments with a closure became the clothing worn by the deceased. It was therefore a taboo in Chinese clothing culture for a living person to wear clothing with a closure.

Exceptions

There are exceptions in which living Han Chinese would wear clothing with a closure. For example, in some areas (such as Northern Hebei) in the 10th century, some ethnic Han Chinese could be found wearing left-lapel clothing. It was also common for the Han Chinese women to adopt left lapel under the reign of foreign nationalities, such as in the such as in the Yuan dynasty. The practice of wearing the also continued in some areas of the Ming dynasty despite being a Han Chinese-ruled dynasty which is an atypical feature.

Association with ethnic minorities and foreigners

The closure was also associated with the clothing of non-Han Chinese, ethnic minorities, and foreigners in ancient times. Some ethnic minorities generally had their clothing closing in the -style according to what was recorded in ancient Chinese texts, such as the Qiang. As a result, the traditional way to distinguish between clothing of the "Barbarian" (i.e. non-Han Chinese), , and Chinese clothing, , was typically by looking at the direction of the collar.

This can also be found in the Analects where Confucius himself praised Guan Zhong for preventing the weakened Zhou dynasty from becoming barbarians:

Based on Confucius' sayings, (), bound hair and coats which closed on the left side, was associated with the clothing customs of the northern nomadic ethnic groups who were considered as barbarians. From the standpoint of the Huaxia culture, was a way to reject refined culture and being turned into a barbarian.

By the Han dynasty, since Confucius himself was the first person to use the phrase to refer to Non-Zhou dynasty people, this phrase became a common metaphor for primitiveness. When used by the ancient Chinese literati, the concept of became a phrase, which held the symbolic of foreign people who were living a barbarous and civilized lifestyle; this concept also became a way to emphasize the customs differences between the Han people and other ethnic minorities and draw the line to distinguish who was were considered as civilized and barbarians. The thus also became a reference to and/or to the rule of foreign nationalities. Of note, some non-Chinese ethnicity who adopted -style sometimes maintain their left lapels, such as the Khitans in the Liao dynasty.

Common types of collar

Cross-collars

'

' () were cross-collars which overlapped on the front and closed on the right side following the ' () rule; they can also be described as cross-collar garments closing to the right side, or y-shaped collar as the collar looks similar to the alphabetic letter《y》. The ' started to be worn in the Shang dynasty in China. This form of collar eventually became one of the major symbols of the Sino Kingdoms and eventually spread throughout Asia. Garments and attire which used ' collar include: shenyi, jiaolingpao, mianfu, pienfu, diyi, dahu, tieli.

File:Ming1.jpg, Jiaoling youren tieli (left) and jiaoling youren shan (right), Ming dynasty
File:Child hanfu qing3.jpg, Jiaoling youren, Qing dynasty
File:Artifact hanfu4.jpg, Jiaoling youren, Ming dynasty
File:Man wearing a Feiyufu.jpg, Feiyufu with jiaoling youren, 2013
File:Daao3.jpg

'

' refers to the cross-collars which closes on the left side instead of the right side. They were typically used by Non-Han Chinese ethnicities in ancient China, but were also adopted by the Han Chinese in some circumstances, e.g. when they were ruled by non-Han Chinese rulers. Han Chinese women were also found sometimes found in the paintings of the Ming dynasty, which is an atypical feature. They were also used to dress the deceased of the Han Chinese.

File:吳氏先祖容像十三.jpg, Living Han Chinese woman wearing jiaoling zuoren, an atypical feature, Ming dynasty.
File:吳氏先祖容像五.jpg, Jiaoling zuoren, an atypical feature, Ming dynasty.

Central front collars

Collars which runs parallel and straight at the front are called duijin (对襟). Garments with duijin collars can either be closed at the centre front or be left opened in the front. They could be found with or without a high collar depending on the time period. Duijin could be used in garments and attire, such as beizi, banbi, beixin.

File:Clothing, Southern Song (33677972835).jpg, Daxiushan with duijin collar, Song dynasty.
File:Gauze Robe, Southern Song (33548426031).jpg, Beizi with duijin collar, Song dynasty.
File:Gauze Dress, Southern Song (33677959605).jpg, Shan with duijin collar, Song dynasty
File:Gauze Garment, Southern Song (33548384501).jpg, Beixin with duijin collar, Song dynasty.
File:Child hanfu qing2.jpg, Duijin shan, Qing dynasty

Round collars

Round collars are called yuanling (圆领) or panling (盘领). In ancient China, clothing with round collars were typically introduced and/or influenced by foreign ethnicities, such as the Donghu, the Wuhu, and the foreigners from Central Asia, such as the Sogdians, and the Mongols, at different point in time. Yuanling can be overlapping to the right or closing at the front in the duijin manner. Yuanling could be used in garments and attire, such as yuanlingshan, yuanlingpao, panling lanshan, and wulingshan (无领衫).

File:Red satin ceremonial (红常服, 皇帝的常服).jpg, Ming dynasty's emperor's dragon robe has a yuanling collar.
File:錢三持家堂圖像.jpg, Ming dynasty
File:Artifact hanfu6.jpg, Yuanlingshan closing on the right, Ming dynasty
File:Artifact hanfu8.jpg, Panling lanshan, Ming dynasty
File:Artifact hanfu12.jpg, Yuanlingshan closing on the right, Ming dynasty
File:Ming2a.jpg, Yuanling banbi, which closes at the front in a duijin manner.
File:MET 62 220 0486.jpg, Qing dynasty
File:MET 45 86 2 F.jpeg, Yuanling shan, Qing dynasty.
File:A girl in Round collar robe （3）.jpg, Yuanling pao, 2022

Standing collars

High standing collars in the Ming dynasty are referred as shuling (竖领) or liling (立领). They appeared by the late Ming dynasty. There were two main forms of high standing collars garments based on their types of lapels and closure.

Standing collar with right closure

Clothing with shuling dajin (竖领大襟), also called liling dajin or shuling xiejin or liling xiejin, has a standing collar and a large lapel which closes on the right. The dajin placket is also called xiejin ().
File:一品命婦容像.jpg, High collar with overlapping front, Ming dynasty.
File:五品曲氏婦人官像.jpg, High collar (slightly turned on itself) with overlapping front, Ming dynasty.
File:吳氏先祖容像六.jpg, High collar with overlapping front, Ming dynasty.

Standing collar with central front closure

Clothing with shuling duijin (or liling (or shuling) duijin) has a standing collar and closes with a central front closure.
File:Mingero 05 (Ming hanfu with standing collar).JPG, High collar which closes at the front in a duijin manner, Ming dynasty.

Other forms of collars

Lapel collars

Fanling refers to the lapel collars, typically categorized as Hufu-style collars

Square collars

Square collars are referred as fangling (方领).

File:Ming clothes.jpg, Fangling ao, Ming dynasty
File:宣宗出獵圖軸（局部）.jpg, Zhaojia (罩甲) with square collar, Ming dynasty

U-shaped collar

U-shaped collar are known as tanling (). Tanling could be used in garments and attire, such as tanling banbi and tanling ruqun.

Pipa-shaped collar

Pianjin (), also called Pipa-shaped collars and sometimes referred as 'slanted' collar in English, were form of collars which overlaps and closes to the right side with a big lapel. This form of collar was influenced by the Manchu clothing. The Manchu's front overlap opening was a Manchu innovation; their clothing was closed with buttons on the centre front of the neck, right clavicle, and under the right arm along the right seams. The Manchu overlap was more shaped like an S-curved overlap; it ran straight to the right of the centre-front of the neck, drops down to the burst before curving to the right side. The Manchu's garments rarely showed high collars until the 20th century. The Pip-shaped collar were worn in the Qing dynasty and the Republic of China. It could be found without or with a high collar (e.g. mandarin collar).

File:China, 19th century - Han Woman's Jacket - 1956.306 - Cleveland Museum of Art.tif, Pipa-shaped collar in Han woman ao (jacket), Qing dynasty
File:MET RT683.jpg, The collar of this ao (jacket) was influenced by the pipa-shaped collar, Qing dynasty
File:Imperial robe (changfu) with dragon roundels, China, Qing dynasty, Xiangeng reign, 1850-1861 AD, silk, metal buttons - Textile Museum, George Washington University - DSC09880.JPG, Manchu pipa-collar, Qing dynasty
File:MET TP446.jpg, Manchu pipa-collar, Qing dynasty
File:MET 1980 205 O1 sf.jpg, Manchu pipa-collar, Qing dynasty

See also

* Han Chinese clothing
* List of Han Chinese clothing
* Hufu

Notes

References

{{Types of Han Chinese clothing

Chinese traditional clothing