Broome, Western Australia

Broome, also known as Rubibi by the Yawuru people, is a coastal pearling and tourist town in the Kimberley region of Western Australia, north of Perth. The town recorded a population of 14,660 in the . It is the largest town in the Kimberley region.

Geography

Broome is located on Western Australia's tropical Kimberley coast on the eastern edge of the Indian Ocean.

Roebuck Bay

Being situated on a north–south peninsula, Broome has water on both sides of the town. On the eastern shore are the waters of Roebuck Bay extending from the main jetty at Port Drive to Sandy Point, west of Thangoo station. Town Beach is part of the shoreline and is popular with visitors on the eastern end of the town. It is the site of the "Staircase to the Moon", where a receding tide and a rising moon combine to create a natural phenomenon that resembles a staircase reaching for the moon. On "Staircase to the Moon" nights, a food and craft market operates on Town Beach. The phenomenon only occurs in one other location in the world, the Nile River in Egypt.

Roebuck Bay is of international importance for the millions of migrating waders or shorebirds that use it seasonally on migration through the East Asian – Australasian Flyway from their breeding grounds in northern Asia. They feed on the extensive intertidal mudflats and roost at high tide on the red sand beaches of the bay. They can be seen in the largest numbers in summer, but many of the younger birds remain throughout the first and second years of their lives. The Broome Bird Observatory, sited in pindan woodland close to the northern shore of Roebuck Bay, was established by Birds Australia in 1988, and formally opened in 1990. The purpose of the observatory is to study the birds, learn how to protect them and educate the public about them.

A mixed black flying fox and little red flying fox colony of around 50,000 megabats lives all year in mangroves next to Broome township's small Streeter's Jetty. They chatter and socialise loudly before flying out at dusk each evening. The bats are key pollinators and seed dispersers for native trees and plants.

Cable Beach

Named for the Java-to-Australia undersea telegraph cable that reaches shore there, Cable Beach is situated from town along a bitumen road. The beach itself is long with white sand, washed by tides that can reach over . Located directly east of Cable Beach over the dunes is Minyirr Park, a coastal reserve administered by a collaboration of the Shire of Broome and the Yawuru people.

History

Yawuru people

Broome is situated on the traditional lands of the Yawuru people. In 2006, the Yawuru people were formally recognized as the Native Title holders of their traditional lands and waters, acknowledging their ongoing connection and rights.

Prior to European arrival, the Yawuru people lived a sustainable lifestyle, relying on the abundant resources of their Country. They practiced traditional hunting, gathering, and fishing, utilizing their knowledge of the environment to ensure resource availability.

Extensive trade networks existed among different language groups on the Dampier Peninsula and throughout the Kimberley region, facilitating the exchange of goods and knowledge.

European settlement

It is often mistakenly thought that the first European to visit Broome was William Dampier in 1688, but he only visited the north of what was later named the Dampier Peninsula. In 1699 he explored the coast from Shark Bay to La Grange Bay, from where he headed north leaving the Australian coast. Many of the coastal features of the area were later named for him. In 1879, Charles Harper proposed the formation of a Government Station at the Roebuck Bay Pastoral and Agricultural Association's site at Cape Villaret, at the south end of Roebuck Bay, to provide facilities for the extension of the Pearl Shell Fishery, and to form a port and base of operations for intending pastoral and agricultural settlers. In 1883, John Forrest chose the site for the town, and it was named after Sir Frederick Broome, the Governor of Western Australia from 1883 to 1889.Broome sweeps in a little luxury
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The 1880s saw the commencement of Broome's pearling industry, which initially involved slavery and indentured labour, pearl diving being an occupation reserved for specific ethnic groups, most prominently from Japan and followed by other Asian countries. This led to numerous racially motivated conflicts, most notably the 1920 race riots between Japanese and Malay residents, resulting in 8 deaths and at least 60 injuries. The Broome community came to "reflect the hierarchy of the pearling industry, which was based on occupation and ethnicity". White collar occupations and positions of power were exclusively held by Europeans. As a consequence, racial segregation was common in Broome until the 1970s.

In 1889, a telegraph undersea cable was laid from Broome to Banjuwangi, East Java, connecting to England. Hence the name Cable Beach given to the landfall site.

In the early part of the 20th century, Aboriginal children from Broome were sent to live at the Beagle Bay mission, north of Broome. Children at Beagle Bay were often sent against their parents' wishes, on account of being " half-caste", and many lost contact with their families. George Walter, who was in charge of the mission described Beagle Bay as "working in the interests of the blacks".

1942 air attacks

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Broome was attacked at least four times during World War II as part of the Japanese air raids on Australia. The worst attack in terms of loss of life was an air raid on 3 March 1942 in which at least 86 people (mostly civilian refugees from the Dutch East Indies) were killed, making it the second deadliest Japanese attack on Australia after the bombing of Darwin. Twenty-two aircraft were destroyed, most of them flying boats, the remains of which can still be seen in the harbour at low tide.

Over 200 Japanese residents of Broome, were interned as "enemy aliens" during the war. This included three Aboriginal women married to Japanese residents.

The Common Gate

"The Common Gate" is the local term for the fences that defined Broome's town limits. Initially, these barriers were built to prevent livestock from entering the town. However, with the implementation of Western Australia's ''Aborigines Act'' of 1905, they became tools of racial segregation, severely restricting Aboriginal people's freedom of movement. Until 1954, Aboriginal people could only enter if they had "lawful employment" and they were locked out of the city from 6pm.

1950s to 2000s

In 1950, Broome was the setting for Arthur Upfield's novel ''The Widows of Broome'', his 12th novel featuring Detective Inspector Napoleon Bonaparte ("Bony").

Until 1967, Broome's outdoor movie theater Sun Pictures was segregated, with prime seating only for white people. Malays, Filipinos and First Nations sat on the side or had to stand, and they were required to enter via a separate entrance. As late as 1971, Indigenous people were not accepted into restaurants in Broome. Patrons at the Roebuck Hotel and the Continental were segregated, with Aboriginal people drinking at the front bar at the Roebuck Hotel. In later years, the separated Indigenous bar at the Roebuck Hotel was abolished and it is now The Lounge Bar.

Dinosaur footprints dated as Early Cretaceous in age (approximately 130 million years ago) were discovered out to sea at Gantheaume Point in the 1960s. The tracks can be seen only during very low tide. In 1996, some of the prints were cut from the ground and stolen, but have since been recovered.

Broome entered into a sister city agreement with Taiji, Japan in 1981 as historic ties between the two towns date back to the early 1900s, when Japan became instrumental in laying the groundwork of Broome's pearling industry. The annual dolphin hunt in Taiji was the subject of the 2009 documentary '' The Cove'', and sparked a unanimous decision by Broome's council, headed by Graeme Campbell, to end the relationship with Taiji if the dolphin hunt were to continue. The decision was reversed in October 2009.

Lord Alistair McAlpine's Pearl Coast Zoological Gardens was opened in August 1984 to serve the burgeoning tourist industry in the town, as was the Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park opened that same year. By 1987, tourism started to boom in the town, thanks in part to the bitumen road which had been completed and linked Highway One with Broome and the Kimberley. According to Martin Peirson-Jones, involved with real estate in the 1980s, there was a large shortage of accommodation between Broome and Kununurra, another town which was experiencing arrivals of bus tours for the first time. Land prices also rose exponentially within a short space of time, in reaction to the town's newfound potential, as recounted by Peirson-Jones:

"There were large subdivisions taking place and that led to a change of focus in the town. It was interesting to watch the land auction prices rise from hundreds of dollars to thousands and then tens of thousands, all within the space of a few years. As more people came in they wanted more facilities, better roads and were expecting more. Prior to this nobody worried too much and the expectations were not there."

2008 - 2013: Save the Kimberley campaign

The Broome community led a campaign to protest against a proposal by Woodside Energy to industrialise James Price Point outside Broome with gas refineries. The campaign received ardent support from public figures such as John Butler, Missy Higgins, Clare Bowditch, Jimmy Barnes, Paul Kelly, Xavier Rudd, Shane Howard, Rob Hirst, Pigram Brothers and former leader of the Australian Greens, Dr Bob Brown. The campaign was one of the biggest in Australian history with many actions leading to arrests including 25 in one day on "Black Tuesday", 5 July 2011 when over 100 riot police were sent to Broome to break up a month long blockade. A concert for the campaign was held on 5 October 2012 at Federation Square in Melbourne and was attended by approximately 6,000 people. A long term protest camp operated at James Price Point. One of the campaign points was to protect the significant " dinosaur highway" of dinosaur tracks that are found in the intertidal zone outside Broome. The campaign has since remained a divisive topic amongst locals, with many blaming the "no" decision for the slow economic growth that characterises the region.

Palaeontological significance

Fossilised '' Megalosauropus broomensis'' dinosaur footprints dated as early Cretaceous in age are out to sea at Gantheaume Point. The fossil trackway can be viewed during very low tide. Plant fossils are preserved extensively in the Broome Sandstone at Gantheaume Point and in coastal exposures further north.

The fossil trackways at Broome include possibly the largest known dinosaur footprints, sauropod tracks upwards of long. It is suspected that the sauropod that made these tracks might have been tall at the hip.

Pearling industry

The town has a history based around the exploits of the men and women who developed the pearling industry, starting with the harvesting of oysters for mother of pearl in the 1880s to the large present-day cultured pearl farming enterprises.

At first, Indigenous people, especially women and girls, were forced to dive for pearls by European pearlers, and many died working in the industry. Report of abuses in the early days of pearling led to legislation in 1871 and 1875 regulating native labour and prohibiting the use of women as divers.

By 1910, Broome was one of the leading producers of pearls globally. At that time, roughly 3,500 of the town's then population of approximately 5,000 worked in the industry. At the beginning of World War I, many of the town's pearlers were requisitioned for the war effort.

Asia-Pacific men, especially Japanese, excelled at pearl diving, with many of them becoming valued citizens in the town. Many Chinese and Japanese traders set up ventures in the town. Indeed, many people with Japanese names thrive in the community. Pearling was a dangerous and sometimes deadly occupation and the town's Japanese cemetery is the resting place of 919 Japanese divers who lost their lives working in the industry.

Each year Broome celebrates the fusion of different cultures brought about by the pearling industry in an annual cultural festival called Shinju Matsuri (Japanese for "festival of the pearl").

In 2010, the Shire of Broome and Kimberley commissioned a Memorial to the Indigenous Female Pearl Divers. In April 2019, the skeletons of 14 Yawuru and Karajarri people which had been sold by a wealthy Broome pearler to a museum in Dresden in 1894 were brought home. The remains, which had been stored in the Grassi Museum of Ethnology in Leipzig, showed signs of head wounds and malnutrition, a reflection of the poor conditions endured by Aboriginal people forced to work on the pearling boats. , the remains are being stored in Perth until facilities have been built to accommodate them in Broome.

Population

According to the , there were 14,660 people in Broome.
* Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people made up 23.4% of the population.
* 70.6% of people were born in Australia. The next most common countries of birth were England 2.9%, New Zealand 1.9% and the Philippines 1.5%.
* 74.1% of people only spoke English at home.
* The most common responses for religion were No religion 47.0% and Catholic 21.4%.

Climate

Under the Köppen climate classification, Broome has a hot semi-arid climate (''BSh''), being a little too dry to be classified as a tropical savanna climate (''Aw''); like most parts of the Australian tropics, it has two seasons: a dry season and a wet season. The dry season is from April to November with nearly every day clear and maximum temperatures around . The wet season extends from December to March, with maximum temperatures of around , with rather erratic tropical downpours and high humidity. Broome's annual rainfall average is , 75% of which falls from January to March.Climate statistics for Australian locations – Broome Airport
Retrieved 3 January 2013. Broome observes an average of 48.4 days a year that record measurable precipitation. According to the indigenous Yawuru calendar, there are six seasons.

Broome is susceptible to tropical cyclones and these, along with the equally unpredictable nature of summer thunderstorms, play a large part in the erratic nature of the rainfall. For instance, in January 1922, Broome Post Office recorded just of rainfall while in the same month of 2018, the airport received . Dewpoint averages in the wet season, but is as low as in the dry season.

Frost is unknown; however, temperatures during the cooler months have dropped to as low as .

The average temperature of the sea ranges from in July and August to in March.

Education

Broome contains six schools: five government, Broome Primary School, Broome North Primary School in the northern suburb of Bilingurr, Cable Beach Primary School in Cable Beach, Roebuck Primary School in the northern suburb of Djugun, and Broome Senior High School; and St Mary's College, a Catholic K–12 school.

Sport and recreation

Broome hosts a lawn bowling club and a golf club.

Broome is considered to be among the best places in the world to catch sailfish.

Four soccer clubs compete in the local Broome Football Association's BLiga competition each dry season. FC Meatworks, Pearlers, Racing G and Broome Town field sides across men's and women's divisions.

The town has four Australian rules clubs; Broome Bulls (established 1949), Broome Saints, Broome Towns and Cable Beach all competing in the West Kimberley District League with games played at Haynes Oval.

Culture and entertainment

Broome is home to the Sun Picture Garden, the oldest operating open-air cinema in the world.

Marrugeku is a dance company led by co-artistic directors choreographer/dancer Dalisa Pigram and director/ dramaturg Rachael Swain, who have worked together for 23 years. The company has Indigenous and non-Indigenous Australians working together to create new dance performances, and works from two bases, one in Broome and the other at Carriageworks in Sydney.

Transport and infrastructure

Broome has a 35 km bitumen road connecting to Highway 1.

Broome International Airport is the regional air hub of northwestern Western Australia and is considered the tourism gateway to the Horizontal Falls and the whole Kimberley region.

The Broome Tramway was an industrial tramway used to convey goods between Mangrove Point and the town centre from 1898 until the 1960s.

The town's electricity is provided by 17 gas generators and 9 back-up diesel generators, for a total of 42 MW.

Media

Since 1992 Broome has been home to a local community newspaper, the ''Broome Advertiser'', published each Thursday, part of the Seven West Media group. Previously Broome had a Saturday weekly newspaper, published from 1912 to 1930, ''The Nor-West Echo'', the successor to the ''Broome Chronicle and Nor'West Advertiser'' (1908–1912).

ABC Kimberley, a part of the ABC Local Radio network, broadcasts from studios on Hamersley St in Broome.

Locally, television stations available include Seven (formerly GWN7), WIN9, WDT10, ABC, SBS and Goolarri Media's Goolarri Television. Seven Regional WA broadcasts a half-hour local news program for regional WA, ''Seven News'', at 5:30pm weeknights; Seven Regional WA has a district newsroom covering Broome and surrounding areas based in the town.

Crocodile park

The Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park is located about from Broome. It was established in 1983 by the wildlife documentary maker Malcolm Douglas, and holds 30 adult crocodiles that have been captured in the wild after threatening humans. The park is home to Fatso, a saltwater crocodile who on 12 July 2010 bit a Melbourne man, Michael Newman, who climbed into his enclosure.

References

Sources

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General references

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External links

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Broome Visitor Centre

Broome Football History


* ttp://wkfl.asn.au/nature/aaopen.html Broome Environment, Flora and Fauna
Broome
- Tourism Australia

{{Towns Kimberley WA

1883 establishments in Australia