Hornbein Couloir
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Hornbein Couloir
The Hornbein Couloir is a narrow and steep couloir high to the west on the north face of Mount Everest in Tibet, that extends from about elevation, below the summit. For the first vertical, the couloir inclines at about 47°, and the last is narrower and steeper with about a 60° average incline. To the east on the north face with less angle is the much larger Norton Couloir. Name The couloir was named after a member of the 1963 U.S.A. Everest Expedition, Thomas Hornbein, who was on the first ascent. First ascent The first ascent of the couloir was made on 22 May 1963, by Tom Hornbein and his partner, Willi Unsoeld, who were with the 1963 U.S.A. expedition attempting to reach the Everest summit from the Nepalese southern side by two routes. The majority of expedition members used the same route climbed ten years earlier by Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary. This entailed negotiating the Western Cwm and the flank of Lhotse to the South Col, then up the southeast ridge to t ...
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North Face Marked
North is one of the four compass points or cardinal directions. It is the opposite of south and is perpendicular to east and west. ''North'' is a noun, adjective, or adverb indicating Direction (geometry), direction or geography. Etymology The word ''north'' is etymology, related to the Old High German ''nord'', both descending from the Proto-Indo-European language, Proto-Indo-European unit *''ner-'', meaning "left; below" as north is to left when facing the rising sun. Similarly, the other cardinal directions are also related to the sun's position. The Latin word ''borealis'' comes from the Ancient Greek, Greek ''Anemoi#Boreas, boreas'' "north wind, north", which, according to Ovid, was personified as the wind-god Anemoi#Boreas, Boreas, the father of Calais and Zetes. ''Septentrionalis'' is from ''septentriones'', "the seven plow oxen", a name of ''Ursa Major''. The Greek ἀρκτικός (''arktikós'') is named for the same constellation, and is the source of the English ...
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Takashi Ozaki
was a Japanese mountaineer. He is known for having made the first ascent of Mount Everest's north face and the first ascent of Myanmar's Hkakabo Razi. Biography Ozaki was born in Kameyama in Japan's Mie Prefecture. On May 10, 1980, Ozaki, with Tsuneo Shigehiro, made the first full ascent of the north face of Mount Everest. Later, in 1983, he made a December ascent of Everest. In 1996, Ozaki made the first ascent of Myanmar's remote Hkakabo Razi with Myanmar climber Niyma Gyaltsen. Ozaki died while descending Everest's south side at around 8600 meters. He had to abort his ascent when he developed medical problems, then died during his attempt to summit Mount Everest in May 2011. He is reported to have died on May 12, 2011. Personal life Takashi Ozaki was married to Frederique Gely-Ozaki, who also climbed mountains with him. He had two children, daughter Sara and son Makato Ozaki. Notable ascents Summits: *Everest (2x, 1980 and 1983) *Broad Peak *Manaslu *Lhotse *Kangchenjun ...
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Chamonix
Chamonix-Mont-Blanc ( frp, Chamôni), more commonly known as Chamonix, is a commune in the Haute-Savoie department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of southeastern France. It was the site of the first Winter Olympics in 1924. In 2019, it had a population of 8,640. Situated to the north of Mont Blanc, between the peaks of the Aiguilles Rouges and the notable Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix is one of the oldest ski resorts in France. The Chamonix commune is popular with skiers and mountain enthusiasts. Via the cable car lift to the Aiguille du Midi it is possible to access the off-piste (backcountry) ski run of the ''Vallée Blanche''. Name The name Campum munitum, meaning fortified plain or field, had been used as early as 1091. By 1283 the name had been abbreviated to a similar form to the modern Chamonis. Other forms through the ages include Chamouny in 1581, Chamony in 1652, Chamouni in 1786, and the particular spelling Chamonix from 1793. Status Chamonix is the fourth-largest ...
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Marco Siffredi
Marco Siffredi (22 May 1979 – 8 September 2002) was a French snowboarder and mountaineer who hailed from a climbing family; his father was a mountain guide, and his older brother Pierre had died in an avalanche in their hometown of Chamonix, France. Siffredi was the first to descend Mount Everest on a snowboard in 2001 via the Norton Couloir. In 2002, he disappeared after making his second Everest summit, while attempting to snowboard the Hornbein Couloir; his body has never been found. First snowboard descent at Nant Blanc In his early years, Marco Siffredi made several first descents in the Chamonix valley before extending his horizons to bigger peaks. In June 1999, he made the second-ever descent of Nant Blanc on the Aiguille Verte, after Jean-Marc Boivin’s ski descent in 1989. First Everest descent Siffredi reached the summit of Everest, a 8,849-meter mountain, on May 23, 2001 with the help of oxygen along with two Sherpas who brought the equipment. He was forced t ...
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Lars Cronlund
Lars is a common male name in Scandinavian countries. Origin ''Lars'' means "from the city of Laurentum". Lars is derived from the Latin name Laurentius, which means "from Laurentum" or "crowned with laurel". A homonymous Etruscan name was borne by several Etruscan kings, and later used as a last name by the Roman Lartia family. The etymology of the Etruscan name is unknown. People *Lars (bishop), 13th-century Archbishop of Uppsala, Sweden *Lars Kristian Abrahamsen (1855–1921), Norwegian politician *Lars Ahlfors (1907–1996), Finnish Fields Medal recipient *Lars Amble (1939–2015), Swedish actor and director *Lars Herminius Aquilinus, ancient Roman consul *Lars Bak (born 1980), Danish road bicycle racer *Lars Bak (computer programmer) (born 1965), Danish computer programmer *Lars Bender (born 1989), German footballer *Lars Christensen (1884–1965), Norwegian shipowner, whaling magnate and philanthropist *Lars Magnus Ericsson (1846–1926), Swedish inventor * Lars Eriksson, ...
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Andrzej Marciniak
Andrzej is the Polish form of the given name Andrew. Notable individuals with the given name Andrzej * Andrzej Bartkowiak (born 1950), Polish film director and cinematographer * Andrzej Bobola, S.J. (1591–1657), Polish saint, missionary and martyr * Andrzej Chyra (born 1964), Polish actor * Andrzej Czarniak (1931–1985), Polish alpine skier * Andrzej Duda (born 1972), Polish 6th president * Andrzej Jajszczyk, Polish scientist * Andrzej Kmicic, fictional protagonist of Henryk Sienkiewicz's novel ''The Deluge'' * Andrzej Kokowski (born 1953), Polish archaeologist * Andrzej Krauze (born 1947), Polish-British cartoonist and illustrator * Andrzej Leder (born 1960), Polish philosopher and psychotherapist * Andrzej Mazurczak (born 1993), Polish basketball player * Andrzej Mleczko (born 1949), Polish illustrator * Andrzej Nowacki (born 1953), Polish artist * Andrzej Paczkowski (born 1938), Polish historian * Sir Andrzej Panufnik (1914–1991), Polish composer * Andrzej Person, Polish ...
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Glissade (climbing)
Glissading is the act of descending a steep snow- or scree-covered slope via a controlled slide on one's feet or buttocks. It is an alternative to other descent methods such as plunge stepping, and may be used to expedite a descent, or simply for the thrill. Glissading involves higher risks of injuries than other forms of descending. Glissading with crampons is especially dangerous and should never be attempted. "The Mt. Shasta rangers constantly stress that climbers never should glissade while wearing crampons. Regardless, a few slip through the cracks. Double broken ankles should teach a powerful lesson." Methods There are three primary methods of glissading: * Sitting * Standing * Crouching Sitting glissade This is the easiest type of glissade and generally provides the greatest amount of stability. It is also less tiring than a standing or crouching glissade in softer snow. To perform a sitting glissade one sits down and slides on the slope usually holding on to an ice ax ...
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Jean Troillet
Jean Troillet (born 10 March 1948) is a professional mountain climber. Of Swiss and Canadian nationality, he obtained his mountain guide qualifications in 1969. Also in 1969, and at the age of 21, he set a speed record for an ascent of the Matterhorn of four hours and ten minutes. He has climbed ten peaks of more than 8000 metres, all in alpine style and without oxygen. Troillet climbed Everest in 1986. In 1997 he was the first man to descend from the roof of the world on a snowboard, although he did not ride down from the top.Mt Everest, Tibet, Himalaya 8'848 m., face nord, altitude atteinte 8'400 m. puis descente en snowboard (première Mountain guide, and seafarer, he was the shipmate of Laurent Bourgnon on board ''Primagaz''. Photographer for Animan and heli-skiing guide. Together with Erhard Loretan, Troillet holds the speed record for the ascent of Everest by the North Face, that is, 43 hours to the summit and back. The 8000-metre peaks of Jean Troillet * K2, 8611 ...
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Erhard Loretan
Erhard Loretan (28 April 1959 – 28 April 2011) was a Swiss mountain climber, often described as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times. Biography Loretan was born in Bulle in the canton of Fribourg. He trained as a cabinet maker (1979) and mountain guide (1981). Loretan was the third person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders (second without oxygen), a feat he accomplished at the age of 36. He made his first expedition to the Andes in 1980 and began climbing the eight-thousanders in 1982 with an ascent of Nanga Parbat. Thirteen years later, in 1995, he climbed the last of them, Kangchenjunga. Loretan took the principles of climbing fast and light in the Alps and applied them to the biggest mountains on Earth. In 1984, he did a first ascent of Annapurna (8091m) by the 7km long east ridge with Norbert Joos and descended via the north side, a traverse that has never been repeated. In 1986, together with Jean Troillet, Loretan made a revolutionary ascent of Mount Everest ...
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Dwayne Congdon
Dwayne or Dewayne is a traditionally male name. It is Gaelic in origin, deriving from the Irish saint Dubhán. History St. Dubhán was an Irish monk who established an abbey in Hook Head, Ireland during the 5th century. As a surname it is O'Dubhain, or Dubhan. Dubhain was a popular given name in 16th century southern Ireland. Its Anglicized form is Dwayne or Duane. In Irish "dubh" means "black". Variant forms * Dewayne * Dewaine * Dewane * Duaine * Duane * Duwain * Duwaine * Duwayne * Dwain * Dwaine * Dwane Given name * Dwayne Abernathy (born 1976), American musician and record producer better known as Dem Jointz * Dwayne Allen (born 1990), American football player * Dwayne Alons (1946–2014), American politician * Dwayne Ambusley (born 1980), Jamaican footballer * Dwayne Anderson (born 1986), American basketball player * Dwayne Anderson (American football) (born 1961), American football player * Dwayne Andreas (1918–2016), American business executive and political do ...
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Sharon Wood
Sharon Adele Wood (born May 18, 1957), a Canadian mountaineer and guide, was the first North American woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest on May 20, 1986. She climbed via the new route of the west shoulder from the Rongbuk Glacier; with Dwayne Congdon and without Sherpa assistance. She is considered an important female mountaineer in climbing history. See also *List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest *List of Mount Everest records This article lists different records related to Mount Everest. One of the most commonly sought after records is a "summit", to reach the highest elevation point on Mount Everest. Records Highest number of times to reach the summit Other ... References 1957 births Living people Canadian mountain climbers Sportspeople from Alberta Canadian summiters of Mount Everest Canadian sportswomen Female climbers {{climbing-bio-stub ...
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Rongbuk Glacier
The Rongbuk Glacier () is located in the Himalaya of southern Tibet. Two large tributary glaciers, the East Rongbuk Glacier and the West Rongbuk Glacier, flow into the main Rongbuk Glacier. It flows north and forms the Rongbuk Valley north of Mount Everest. The famous Rongbuk Monastery is located at the northern end of the Rongbuk valley. Mount Everest is the source of the Rongbuk Glacier and East Rongbuk Glacier. Discovery The English climber George Mallory first explored the main Rongbuk Valley and its glacier while searching for possible routes to the summit of Mount Everest, during the first British Everest reconnaissance expedition of 1921. On the same expedition, Oliver Wheeler first explored the East Rongbuk Glacier. His exploration below the Lhakpa La pass led him on 3 August 1921 to realise that the East Rongbuk Valley provided the key to a viable route to the summit of Everest. A few weeks later, a party consisting of George Mallory, Guy Bullock, and Oliver Wheeler exp ...
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