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Marco Siffredi (22 May 1979 – 8 September 2002) was a
French French (french: français(e), link=no) may refer to: * Something of, from, or related to France ** French language, which originated in France, and its various dialects and accents ** French people, a nation and ethnic group identified with Franc ...
snowboarder and mountaineer who hailed from a climbing family; his father was a mountain guide, and his older brother Pierre had died in an
avalanche An avalanche is a rapid flow of snow down a slope, such as a hill or mountain. Avalanches can be set off spontaneously, by such factors as increased precipitation or snowpack weakening, or by external means such as humans, animals, and earth ...
in their hometown of
Chamonix Chamonix-Mont-Blanc ( frp, Chamôni), more commonly known as Chamonix, is a commune in the Haute-Savoie department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of southeastern France. It was the site of the first Winter Olympics in 1924. In 2019, it had ...
, France. Siffredi was the first to descend
Mount Everest Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow heig ...
on a snowboard in 2001 via the
Norton Couloir The Norton Couloir or Great Couloir is a steep, gully high on the north face of Mount Everest in Tibet which lies east of the pyramidal peak and extends to within 150 m below the summit. Its companion to the west of the summit is the Horn ...
. In 2002, he disappeared after making his second Everest summit, while attempting to snowboard the
Hornbein Couloir The Hornbein Couloir is a narrow and steep couloir high to the west on the north face of Mount Everest in Tibet, that extends from about elevation, below the summit. For the first vertical, the couloir inclines at about 47°, and the last is ...
; his body has never been found.


First snowboard descent at Nant Blanc

In his early years, Marco Siffredi made several first descents in the Chamonix valley before extending his horizons to bigger peaks. In June 1999, he made the second-ever descent of Nant Blanc on the
Aiguille Verte The Aiguille Verte (; ), which is French for "Green Needle", is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps. It was first climbed on 29 June 1865 by Edward Whymper, Christian Almer and Franz Biner, a fortnight before the fateful fir ...
, after Jean-Marc Boivin’s ski descent in 1989.


First Everest descent

Siffredi reached the summit of Everest, a 8,849-meter mountain, on May 23, 2001 with the help of oxygen along with two Sherpas who brought the equipment. He was forced to choose an alternative route to the one he considered the "Holy Grail" of snowboarding, as the
Hornbein Couloir The Hornbein Couloir is a narrow and steep couloir high to the west on the north face of Mount Everest in Tibet, that extends from about elevation, below the summit. For the first vertical, the couloir inclines at about 47°, and the last is ...
did not have enough snow. Instead, he rode down the
Norton Couloir The Norton Couloir or Great Couloir is a steep, gully high on the north face of Mount Everest in Tibet which lies east of the pyramidal peak and extends to within 150 m below the summit. Its companion to the west of the summit is the Horn ...
back to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at the foot of the
North Col __NOTOC__ The North Col (; ) refers to the sharp-edged pass carved by glaciers in the ridge connecting Mount Everest and Changtse in Tibet. It forms the head of the East Rongbuk Glacier. When climbers attempt to climb Everest via the North ridge ...
. Then he began the descent down the
Norton Couloir The Norton Couloir or Great Couloir is a steep, gully high on the north face of Mount Everest in Tibet which lies east of the pyramidal peak and extends to within 150 m below the summit. Its companion to the west of the summit is the Horn ...
of the north face, but after 200 meters a fastening strap on his snowboard broke due to the cold . After repairing it with help from a sherpa, Siffredi continued the descent to 6,400 meters in two hours. The day before, on May 22,
Austrian Austrian may refer to: * Austrians, someone from Austria or of Austrian descent ** Someone who is considered an Austrian citizen, see Austrian nationality law * Austrian German dialect * Something associated with the country Austria, for example: ...
climber Stefan Gatt reached the summit alone and without using oxygen. He went on a snowboard up to 8,600 meters along the north wall, but at that altitude he found very hard snow and decided to continue without snowboarding. There were disputes about who would be awarded the first snowboard descent of Everest, as Gatt got out first, but did not use a snowboard for about 1,000 m. The site everestnews.com, attributed primacy to Siffredi but the site snowboarding.transworld.net, recognized merits and demerits to both, so the record was shared.


Second Everest descent

Early in August 2002, Siffredi departed for
Nepal Nepal (; ne, नेपाल ), formerly the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal ( ne, सङ्घीय लोकतान्त्रिक गणतन्त्र नेपाल ), is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is mai ...
, intending to make the first snowboard descent of Everest along the
Hornbein Couloir The Hornbein Couloir is a narrow and steep couloir high to the west on the north face of Mount Everest in Tibet, that extends from about elevation, below the summit. For the first vertical, the couloir inclines at about 47°, and the last is ...
. It was late in the season for summitting Everest, but Siffredi hoped that the passage would have more snow. On August 10, he left Kathmandu with three sherpa (Phurba, Pa Nuru and Da Tenzing), reaching base camp in
Tibet Tibet (; ''Böd''; ) is a region in East Asia, covering much of the Tibetan Plateau and spanning about . It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people. Also resident on the plateau are some other ethnic groups such as Monpa people, ...
on August 14. On September 7, the group reached the advanced field at 8,300 m. On Sept. 8, 2002, Siffredi and the sherpas reached the summit at 2:10 PM. According to
Phurba Tashi Phurba Tashi Sherpa Mendewa ( ne, फूर्वा तासी शेर्पा, 1971) is a Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer known for his numerous ascents of major Himalayan peaks. These include twenty-one ascents of Mount Everest, five on Ch ...
, however, Siffredi showed little enthusiasm for the accomplishment, commenting that he was "Tired, tired...too much climbing..." After weather conditions began to change, the Sherpas urged Siffredi not to go. Siffredi ignored their warnings and after an hour's rest, began making his way towards the Hornbein just after 3pm. His sherpa companions lost sight of him periodically. At the North Col, about 1,300 meters below Camp Three, both Sherpas reported seeing the distant image of a man stand up, then slide silently down the mountain. As they reached the point of the sighting, Siffredi's snowboard tracks were not to be seen. His body has not been found.


Other achievements

In May 1996, Siffredi snowboarded down the north face of the
Aiguille du Midi The Aiguille du Midi () is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif within the French Alps. It is a popular tourist destination and can be directly accessed by cable car from Chamonix that takes visitors close to Mont Blanc. Cable car The idea fo ...
on
Mont Blanc Mont Blanc (french: Mont Blanc ; it, Monte Bianco , both meaning "white mountain") is the highest mountain in the Alps and Western Europe, rising above sea level. It is the second-most prominent mountain in Europe, after Mount Elbrus, and i ...
along the Mallory track, a descent of 1,000 meters with passages of more than 50-degree incline. In 1998, in preparation for climbing the Himalayas, he climbed
Tocllaraju Tocllaraju (possibly from Quechua ''tuqlla'' trap, ''rahu'' snow, ice, mountain with snow, "snow-covered trap mountain") is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes of Peru, about 6,034 m (19,797 ft) high. It is situated in the ...
in
Peru , image_flag = Flag of Peru.svg , image_coat = Escudo nacional del Perú.svg , other_symbol = Great Seal of the State , other_symbol_type = Seal (emblem), National seal , national_motto = "Fi ...
(6,032 m) with Philippe Forte and
René Robert René Paul Robert (December 31, 1948 – June 22, 2021) was a Canadian professional ice hockey winger who played 12 seasons in the National Hockey League (NHL). He played for the Toronto Maple Leafs, Pittsburgh Penguins, Buffalo Sabres, and Col ...
. In 1999 he climbed
Dorje Lhakpa Dorje Lhakpa is a mountain in the Jugal Himal, southeast of Langtang valley in Nepal. Visible also from Kathmandu valley it has an elegant pyramid-shaped figure and is an ideal target for photographers and mountaineers. Considered by many of int ...
(6,988 m) in Nepal and made the first snowboard descent of the mountain. In autumn 2001, he climbed
Shisha Pangma Shishapangma, also called Gosainthān, is the 14th-highest mountain in the world, at above sea level. In 1964, it became the last of the 8,000-metre peaks to be climbed. This was due to its location entirely within Tibet and the restrictions ...
, Himalayas (8,027 m) with the intention of making the entire descent by snowboard, but strong winds prevented the attempt.


See also

*
List of people who died climbing Mount Everest At least 310 people have died attempting to reach the summit of Mount Everest which, at , is Earth's highest mountain and a particularly desirable peak for mountaineers. The most recent years without known deaths on the mountain are 1977, in whic ...


References


Further reading

https://www.amazon.com/See-You-Tomorrow-Disappearance-Snowboarder-ebook/dp/B08W1MQ1YW/ref=nodl_


External links


The Disappearance of Marco Siffredi
article from TransWorld SNOWboarding Magazine: The Disappearance Of Marco Siffredi.

Article from MountainZone.com: Steep Ascents and First Descents (Siffredi's second descent of Nant Blanc, Aiguille Verte) Trey Cook on Showboarding ** https://www.snowboarder.com/transworld-snowboarding-archive/snowboarding-photos/the-disappearance-of-marco-siffredi/ ** https://allthatsinteresting.com/marco-siffredi {{DEFAULTSORT:Siffredi, Marco 1979 births 2002 deaths French male snowboarders French mountain climbers Mountaineering deaths on Mount Everest Deceased Everest summiters