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Andy Pollitt
Robert Andrew Pollitt (26 October 1963 – 13 November 2019) was a British rock climber who was one of the most prominent traditional climbers and sport climbers of the late 1980s and early 1990s. In 1992, after having successfully repeated ''Punks in the Gym'' in Australia, the world's first-ever graded sport climbing routes, he quit climbing and permanently emigrated to Australia. In 2016, Pollitt published an autobiography, titled ''Punk in the Gym''. He died from a cerebral aneurysm on 13 November 2019. Early life Andy Pollitt was born in Prestatyn, North Wales, on 26 October 1963. His father was an actor who had small parts in Z-Cars, Coronation Street, and Doctor Who before eventually leaving the family. Pollitt attended Prestatyn High School, which had an indoor climbing wall that Pollitt took to with enthusiasm, including school trips to nearby crags organized by his climbing teacher-mentor, Andy Boorman. Climbing career In the mid-1980s, Pollitt rose to promin ...
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Prestatyn
Prestatyn is a seaside town and community in Denbighshire, Wales. Historically a part of Flintshire, it is located on the Irish Sea coast, to the east of Rhyl. Prestatyn has a population of 19,085, History Prehistory There is evidence that the current town location has been occupied since prehistoric times. Prehistoric tools found in the caves of Graig Fawr, in the nearby village of Meliden, have revealed the existence of early human habitation in the area. Roman The Roman bathhouse is believed to be part of a fort on the road from Chester to Caernarfon. However, much of "Roman Prestatyn" has been destroyed as houses have been built over unexcavated land. Medieval The name Prestatyn derives from the Old English ''prēosta'' ("priests, the genitive plural of ''prēost'') and ''tūn'' ("town"), and was recorded in the ''Domesday Book'' as ''Prestetone''. Unlike similarly derived names in England, which generally lost their penultimate syllable and became Preston, this villag ...
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The Daily Telegraph
''The Daily Telegraph'', known online and elsewhere as ''The Telegraph'', is a national British daily broadsheet newspaper published in London by Telegraph Media Group and distributed across the United Kingdom and internationally. It was founded by Arthur B. Sleigh in 1855 as ''The Daily Telegraph & Courier''. Considered a newspaper of record over ''The Times'' in the UK in the years up to 1997, ''The Telegraph'' generally has a reputation for high-quality journalism, and has been described as being "one of the world's great titles". The paper's motto, "Was, is, and will be", appears in the editorial pages and has featured in every edition of the newspaper since 19 April 1858. The paper had a circulation of 363,183 in December 2018, descending further until it withdrew from newspaper circulation audits in 2019, having declined almost 80%, from 1.4 million in 1980.United Newspapers PLC and Fleet Holdings PLC', Monopolies and Mergers Commission (1985), pp. 5–16. Its si ...
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Johnny Dawes
Johnny Dawes (born 9 May 1964) is a British rock climber and author, known for a dynamic climbing style and for establishing bold traditional climbing routes. This included the first ascent of ''The Indian Face'', the first-ever route at the E9-grade. His influence on British climbing was at its peak in the mid to late-1980s. Climbing career Dawes' main climbing career roughly splits into an initial period pre-1986 where he focused on gritstone in the Peak District, which was suited to his unique climbing style (e.g. ''Gaia'', and ''End of the Affair''). From 1986, Dawes focused on Wales and on a diverse range of rock, from the slate quarries of Llanberis (e.g. ''The Quarryman'', ''The Very Big and the Very Small'', and ''Dawes of Perception''), to the quartzite cliffs of Gogarth North Stack (e.g. ''Conan the Librarian'', and ''Hardback Thesaurus''), and the rhyolite mountain crags of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (e.g. ''The Indian Face''). Dawes is mostly remembered for intimidatin ...
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North Stack
North Stack ( Welsh: Ynys Arw, meaning "rugged island") is a small island situated just off Holy Island on the north-west coast of Anglesey. The area has been an important location in the development of traditional climbing in Britain and has several notable classic, and also extreme, climbing routes. Description North Stack is the site of a redundant fog warning station, comprising a number of buildings, including the Trinity House Magazine, built-in 1861, where shells for the warning cannon were stored. These buildings now house a bird-watching observatory,North Stack
holyhead.com. Retrieved 31 December 2010.
giving a view of lighthouse across Gogarth Bay, and the studio of artist Philippa J ...
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Bipolar Disorder
Bipolar disorder, previously known as manic depression, is a mental disorder characterized by periods of depression and periods of abnormally elevated mood that last from days to weeks each. If the elevated mood is severe or associated with psychosis, it is called mania; if it is less severe, it is called hypomania. During mania, an individual behaves or feels abnormally energetic, happy or irritable, and they often make impulsive decisions with little regard for the consequences. There is usually also a reduced need for sleep during manic phases. During periods of depression, the individual may experience crying and have a negative outlook on life and poor eye contact with others. The risk of suicide is high; over a period of 20 years, 6% of those with bipolar disorder died by suicide, while 30–40% engaged in self-harm. Other mental health issues, such as anxiety disorders and substance use disorders, are commonly associated with bipolar disorder. While the causes of ...
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Rope Access
Rope access or industrial climbing or commercial climbing, is a form of work positioning, initially developed from techniques used in climbing and caving, which applies practical ropework to allow workers to access difficult-to-reach locations without the use of scaffolding, cradles or an aerial work platform. Rope access technicians descend, ascend, and traverse ropes for access and work while suspended by their harnesses. Sometimes a work seat may be used. The support of the rope is intended to eliminate the likelihood of a fall altogether, but a backup fall arrest system is used in case of the unlikely failure of the primary means of support. This redundancy system is usually achieved by using two ropes - a working line and a safety line. Gallery File:Viuna jackup .jpg, Performing repairs on oil platforms and rigs in Iran Image:Spasskaya Uhrmacher.jpg, Rope access to turret clock A turret clock or tower clock is a clock designed to be mounted high in the wall of a buil ...
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Ben Moon (climber)
Ben Moon (born 13 June 1966) is a rock climber from England. During the late 1980s and early 1990s, Moon, along with climbing partner Jerry Moffatt, were the two strongest British rock climbers and were key pioneers in the development of standards in international sport climbing. In 1991, Moon made the first-ever redpoint in history of a consensus grade climbing route with his ascent of ''Hubble. Climbing career Moon's first officially declared routes had somewhat controversial names. The routes were both in France and had been previously attempted for a long time by local climbers. After climbing them Moon named them after French military disasters, first the Maginot Line, at Volx, and secondly Agincourt, at Buoux. On 8 June 2015, Moon redpointed the Steve McClure route ''Rainshadow'', , at Malham Cove in North Yorkshire, England. Business ventures In 2002, Moon founded his climbing clothing and equipment company, Moon Climbing, after splitting from his previous com ...
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Jerry Moffatt
Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the mid-1980s, and an important climber in the history of the sport. As a sport climber, Moffatt was one of the first climbers in history to onsight routes of grade , , and , and also the first in history to climb routes of grade , and probably . As a competition climber, Moffatt won several of the nascent tour events, and retired ranked first in the world. As a boulder climber, Moffatt was one of the first-ever to solve problems of boulder grade , and . As a traditional climber, Moffatt established some of the most intimidating routes at the time in Britain, which are still rarely repeated, and in particular, the ''Master's Wall'' (E7 6b) in 1983. Moffatt was noted for the intensity of his training, and the co-development of train ...
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Ron Fawcett
Ron Fawcett (born 6 May 1955) is a British rock climber and rock climbing author who is credited with pushing the technical standards of British rock climbing in traditional, sport, bouldering and free soloing disciplines, in the decade from the mid-1970s to the mid-1980s, and of pioneering the career of being a full-time professional rock climber. At the end of the 1970s to the early 1980s, Fawcett was widely considered the best and most notable rock climber in Britain. Climbing career Fawcett is considered as a legend of British rock climbing, and a prolific developer of challenging new routes that attracted international recognition. By the start of the 1980s, Fawcett was considered the most famous rock climber in Britain, with a reputation for high levels of fitness and mental fortitude. He produced bold routes that embraced both traditional climbing and early sport climbing techniques, and that are still considered test-pieces for rock climbers. Fawcett's dominance of Brit ...
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Wolfgang Gullich
Wolfgang is a German male given name traditionally popular in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The name is a combination of the Old High German words ''wolf'', meaning "wolf", and ''gang'', meaning "path", "journey", "travel". Besides the regular "wolf", the first element also occurs in Old High German as the combining form "-olf". The earliest reference of the name being used was in the 8th century. The name was also attested as "Vulfgang" in the Reichenauer Verbrüderungsbuch in the 9th century. The earliest recorded famous bearer of the name was a tenth-century Saint Wolfgang of Regensburg. Due to the lack of conflict with the pagan reference in the name with Catholicism, it is likely a much more ancient name whose meaning had already been lost by the tenth century. Grimm (''Teutonic Mythology'' p. 1093) interpreted the name as that of a hero in front of whom walks the "wolf of victory". A Latin gloss by Arnold of St Emmeram interprets the name as ''Lupambulus''.E. Förs ...
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Rock & Ice
''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became equal partners in September that year. The magazine was bought out within the first year by George Bracksieck, who remained publisher and editor the end of December 1997. His company, Eldorado Publishing, sold Rock & Ice to North-South Publications, an investment group led by Dougald MacDonald. After a few years, it was sold to Big Stone. The magazine is published eight times a year. It was headquartered in Boulder, Colorado until 2002, when it moved to Carbondale, Colorado. Rock & Ice was purchased by Outside in 2021. The cover of the first issue featured Alex Lowe climbing the first ascent of ''The Fang'' in Vail, Colorado Vail is a home rule municipality in Eagle County, Colorado, United States. The population of the town was 4 ...
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John Redhead
''Indian Face'' is a rhyolite rock climbing route on the "Great Wall" of the East Buttress of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, in Wales. When English climber Johnny Dawes completed the first free ascent of the route on 4 October 1986, it was graded E9 6c or (5.13a X), the first-ever E9-graded route, and was considered one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world. ''Indian Face'' is still considered one of the world's most intimidating traditional climbs, and even decades after its first ascent, it is rarely repeated. The ascent was an historic moment in the transition from traditional climbing as the dominant form of extreme rock climbing (in Britain, and elsewhere), to the safer form of sport climbing, which became the focus for the leading climbers. History Clogwyn Du'r Arddu has long been considered a "crucible" of British traditional climbing, with many of Britain's leading climbers creating iconic routes on its buttresses; and the most challenging section is th ...
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