Robert John Slater (6 December 1960 – August 13, 1995) was an American mountaineer known for his first ascent of the big wall route ''Wyoming Sheep Ranch'' on
El Capitan
El Capitan ( es, El Capitán; "the Captain" or "the Chief") is a vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The granite monolith is about from base to summit along its tallest ...
. A tireless outdoor recreationalist, Slater built up an impressive climbing resume during his college years and later as he worked as a trader on the
Chicago Board of Trade
The Chicago Board of Trade (CBOT), established on April 3, 1848, is one of the world's oldest futures exchange, futures and options exchanges. On July 12, 2007, the CBOT merged with the Chicago Mercantile Exchange (CME) to form CME Group. CBOT and ...
and for Goldman Sachs. He died on August 13, 1995, while descending from the summit of
K2.
Rob started climbing early, summiting the
Grand Teton
Grand Teton is the highest mountain in Grand Teton National Park, in Northwest Wyoming, and a classic destination in American mountaineering.
Geography
Grand Teton, at , is the highest point of the Teton Range, and the second highest peak in ...
at age 13 with mountaineering pioneer
Paul Petzoldt
Paul Kiesow Petzoldt (January 16, 1908 – October 6, 1999) was an American mountaineer and wilderness educator known for establishing the National Outdoor Leadership School in 1965.
Early life and education
Petzoldt was born in Creston, ...
. He attended high school in
Cheyenne, Wyoming
Cheyenne ( or ) is the capital and most populous city of the U.S. state of Wyoming, as well as the county seat of Laramie County, with 65,132 residents, per the 2020 US Census. It is the principal city of the Cheyenne metropolitan statistica ...
and college at the
University of Colorado at Boulder
The University of Colorado Boulder (CU Boulder, CU, or Colorado) is a public research university in Boulder, Colorado. Founded in 1876, five months before Colorado became a state, it is the flagship university of the University of Colorado s ...
, an institution he chose for its beautiful location beneath the
Flatirons
The Flatirons are rock formations in the western United States, near Boulder, Colorado, consisting of flatirons. There are five large, numbered Flatirons ranging from north to south (First through Fifth, respectively) along the east slope of ...
and, according to fellow climber
John Sherman
John Sherman (May 10, 1823October 22, 1900) was an United States, American politician from Ohio throughout the American Civil War, Civil War and into the late nineteenth century. A member of the Republican Party (United States), Republican Par ...
, its beautiful female students.
[ Sherman, John, ''Sherman Exposed'', 1999, pp. 214–230] Slater soon demonstrated his nerve in nearby
Eldorado Canyon
El Dorado (, ; Spanish for "the golden"), originally ''El Hombre Dorado'' ("The Golden Man") or ''El Rey Dorado'' ("The Golden King"), was the term used by the Spanish in the 16th century to describe a mythical tribal chief (''zipa'') or king ...
by dispatching the testpiece route ''Wide Country'' (11a R), still difficult today even though the availability of sticky rubber
climbing shoes
A climbing shoe is a specialized type of footwear designed for rock climbing. Typical climbing shoes have a close fit, little if any padding, and a smooth, sticky rubber sole with an extended rubber . Unsuited to walking and hiking, climbing s ...
and micronuts has reduced the challenge.
While in college, Slater began making summer trips to
Yosemite Valley
Yosemite Valley ( ; ''Yosemite'', Miwok for "killer") is a glacial valley in Yosemite National Park in the western Sierra Nevada mountains of Central California. The valley is about long and deep, surrounded by high granite summits such as ...
, where he climbed his first big wall route ''Zodiac'' with
Tom Cosgriff and climbed Aquarian Wall with
Robert Kayen
Robert Kayen is a civil engineer, geologist, and Industry Professor at the University of California, Berkeley in the Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering. He is a leading international expert in the fields of earthquake engineering, ...
. During his junior year Slater met
Randy Leavitt, who taught Slater how to
BASE jump. Attempting a risky jump with Leavitt in the
Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is an American national park located in western Colorado and managed by the National Park Service. There are two primary entrances to the park: the south rim entrance is located east of Montrose, while ...
, Slater was forced to make a downwind landing on the wrong side of the river, twisting his foot and scrubbing their plans to exit the canyon by climbing one of the walls.
Slater was one of the top
aid climbers of his day. In 1982, he made the first solo ascent of the ''Pacific Ocean Wall'', at the time one of the hardest routes on El Capitan. Slater naturally capped his ascent with a BASE jump. In 1984 Slater put up ''Wyoming Sheep Ranch'' (A5) with
John Barbella. Caught by nightfall in the middle of a difficult and overhung pitch, Slater lowered off 40' on hooks, and Barbella had to pull him in 20' to the belay. ''Wyoming Sheep Ranch'' held title for many years as the most difficult and dangerous aid climb on El Cap, but the inevitable widening of placements and appearance of fixed gear has subsequently reduced the grade to A4.
As a specialist in climbs with poor protection, Slater was drawn to the
Fisher Towers near
Moab, Utah
Moab () is the largest city and county seat of Grand County in eastern Utah in the western United States, known for its dramatic scenery. The population was 5,366 at the 2020 census. Moab attracts many tourists annually, mostly visitors to th ...
, famous for their soft, crumbly rock. Slater was the first and as of 1995 the only climber to summit all of the towers.
Slater may be the first person to take a leash-protected fall on a highline
slackline
Slacklining refers to the act of walking, running or balancing along a suspended length of flat webbing that is tensioned between two anchors. Slacklining is similar to slack rope walking and tightrope walking. Slacklines differ from tightw ...
.
The Evolution of Slacklining
by Chris Carpenter In 1983 he set up a short 22' line under a freeway overpass in Pasadena
Pasadena ( ) is a city in Los Angeles County, California, northeast of downtown Los Angeles. It is the most populous city and the primary cultural center of the San Gabriel Valley. Old Pasadena is the city's original commercial district.
Its ...
with Scott Balcom
Scott may refer to:
Places Canada
* Scott, Quebec, municipality in the Nouvelle-Beauce regional municipality in Quebec
* Scott, Saskatchewan, a town in the Rural Municipality of Tramping Lake No. 380
* Rural Municipality of Scott No. 98, Saska ...
and others. The line was 80' above the ground. Even though Slater only had 15 minutes of slacklining practice at the ground level, he was the first in the group to attempt to walk the line.
Slater excelled at all types of climbing, having ascended the 3000' ice route ''Slipstream'' in the Canadian Rockies
The Canadian Rockies (french: Rocheuses canadiennes) or Canadian Rocky Mountains, comprising both the Alberta Rockies and the British Columbian Rockies, is the Canadian segment of the North American Rocky Mountains. It is the easternmost par ...
as well as K2 without bottled oxygen. Slater perished in a storm on the descent from K2 along with 5 other climbers, including his team member, noted English climber Alison Hargreaves
Alison Jane Hargreaves (17 February 1962 – 13 August 1995) was a British mountain climber. Her accomplishments included scaling Mount Everest alone, without supplementary oxygen or support from a Sherpa team, in 1995. She soloed all the great ...
.
Bibliography
"Honed: Rob Slater, Summit or Death, Either Way I Win" By Rich Slater 2011
See also
*1995 K2 disaster
The 1995 K2 disaster was a mountaineering disaster on K2 in Pakistan, the world's second highest mountain. Six people are reported to have died on August 13, 1995, on K2, largely related to bad weather, especially reported high winds. Scott Fisc ...
External links
The Last Ascent of Alison Hargreaves
– Originally from Outside Magazine
{{DEFAULTSORT:Slater, Rob
1960 births
1995 deaths
American rock climbers
Mountaineering deaths on K2