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1954 Italian Expedition To K2
On the 1954 Italian expedition to K2 (led by Ardito Desio), Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli became the first people to reach the summit of K2, , the second-highest mountain in the world. They reached the summit on 31 July 1954. K2 is more difficult to climb than Mount Everest, , which had first been climbed by a British expedition in 1953. Three earlier unsuccessful American attempts on the mountain had identified a good route to use. Desio felt Italy's earlier exploration of the Karakoram region gave good reason to mount a major expedition which he did on a grand scale, following the American route up the south-east ridge. Progress towards the summit was repeatedly interrupted by storms, and one member of the team died rather unexpectedly. Desio considered abandoning the expedition so as to try again by returning later in the year, but weather conditions improved allowing them to edge closer to the top of the mountain. At last, the two lead climbers reached the summit ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
List Of Deaths On Eight-thousanders
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains that rise more than above sea level. They are all in the Himalayas, Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges. This is a list of Mountaineering, mountaineers who have died on these mountains. By Mountain Mount Everest Mount Everest, Earth's highest mountain at above sea level, has been host to numerous tragedies. Deaths have occurred on the mountain every year since 1978, excluding 2020, when permits were not issued due to the Coronavirus pandemic, COVID-19 pandemic. The most notable deadly events on Everest were the 1922 British Mount Everest Expedition, 1922 British Mount Everest expedition, 1970 Everest Disaster, 1970 Everest disaster, 1974 Everest Disaster, 1974 Everest disaster, 1996 Everest Disaster, 1996 Everest disaster, 2014 Mount Everest avalanche, and 2015 Mount Everest avalanches and the 2023 Mount Everest season. As of December 2024, there had been 12,884 successful summits, and 340 people had died either before or a ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
1953 American Karakoram Expedition
The 1953 American Karakoram expedition was a mountaineering expedition to K2, at 8,611 metres the second highest mountain on Earth. It was the fifth expedition to attempt K2, and the first since the Second World War. Led by Charles Snead Houston, Charles Houston, a mainly United States, American team attempted the mountain's South-East Spur (mountain), Spur (commonly known as the Abruzzi Spur) in a style which was unusually lightweight for the time. The team reached a high point of 7750 m, but were trapped by a storm in their high camp, where a team member, Art Gilkey, became seriously ill. A desperate retreat down the mountain followed, during which all but one of the climbers were nearly killed in a fall arrested by Pete Schoening, and Gilkey later died in an apparent avalanche. The expedition has been widely praised for the courage shown by the climbers in their attempt to save Gilkey, and for the team spirit and the bonds of friendship it fostered. Background By 1953, fo ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Lino Lacedelli
Lino Lacedelli (4 December 1925 – 20 November 2009) was an Italian mountaineer. Together with Achille Compagnoni, on 31 July 1954 he was the first to reach the summit of K2. Early life Lacedelli was born in Cortina d'Ampezzo. His climbing career began as a young teenager when he followed a mountain guide up a local summit. He soon came under the tutelage of Luigi 'Bibi' Ghedina, one of the best Dolomite rock climbers of the age. In 1946 he was accepted into the prestigious ''Cortina Squirrels'' club. Lacedelli was known for fast ascents of difficult routes, including: the ''Constantini-Apollonio South Face Direct'' (500 m V+ A2) on the Pilastro di Rozes (repeat with Ghedina); the first ascent of the ''Southwest Face'' of Cima Scotoni (Fanis Group) with Guido Lorenzi; first one-day ascent of the ''Solda Route'' on the SW Face of the Marmolada di Penia (with Lorenzi); and the fourth ascent of the ''Gabriel-Livanos Diedre'' on the Cima su Alto with Beniamino Franceschi. In 1 ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Lino Lacedelli
Lino Lacedelli (4 December 1925 – 20 November 2009) was an Italian mountaineer. Together with Achille Compagnoni, on 31 July 1954 he was the first to reach the summit of K2. Early life Lacedelli was born in Cortina d'Ampezzo. His climbing career began as a young teenager when he followed a mountain guide up a local summit. He soon came under the tutelage of Luigi 'Bibi' Ghedina, one of the best Dolomite rock climbers of the age. In 1946 he was accepted into the prestigious ''Cortina Squirrels'' club. Lacedelli was known for fast ascents of difficult routes, including: the ''Constantini-Apollonio South Face Direct'' (500 m V+ A2) on the Pilastro di Rozes (repeat with Ghedina); the first ascent of the ''Southwest Face'' of Cima Scotoni (Fanis Group) with Guido Lorenzi; first one-day ascent of the ''Solda Route'' on the SW Face of the Marmolada di Penia (with Lorenzi); and the fourth ascent of the ''Gabriel-Livanos Diedre'' on the Cima su Alto with Beniamino Franceschi. In 195 ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Achille Compagnoni
Achille Compagnoni (26 September 1914 – 13 May 2009) was an Italian mountaineer and skier. Together with Lino Lacedelli on 31 July 1954 he was in the first party to reach the summit of K2. Biography Compagnoni was born in Santa Caterina di Valfurva, Sondrio, Lombardy. On the successful K2 expedition, Compagnoni's decision to place the final camp (IX) at a higher location than formerly agreed was a source of controversy. Compagnoni alleged that Walter Bonatti had used some of the oxygen supply intended for the summit, causing it to run out on summit day. Walter Bonatti disputed this, and was cleared in the Italian courts in 1964. Bonatti and a Hunza climber, Amir Mehdi, climbed up to deliver oxygen to Compagnoni and Lacedeilli for their summit attempt. It was an epic climb with the weight of the oxygen bottles at that altitude and both men were exhausted. Bonatti and Mehdi arrived in failing light at a point on the "shoulder" at where the team had agreed to place camp ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayas, Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone. From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were first summited by Expedition climbing, expedition climbers in the summer (the first to be summited was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first to be summited in winter being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021 ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Karakoram Range
The Karakoram () is a mountain range in the Kashmir region spanning the border of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwestern extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range is within Pakistan's Gilgit-Baltistan region, the northern subdivision of Kashmir. Karakoram's highest and the world's second-highest peak, K2, is located in Gilgit-Baltistan. The mountain range begins in the Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan in the west, encompasses the majority of Gilgit-Baltistan, controlled by Pakistan and then extends into Ladakh, controlled by India and Aksai Chin, controlled by China. It is part of the larger Trans-Himalayan mountain ranges. The Karakoram is the second-highest mountain range on Earth and part of a complex of ranges that includes the Pamir Mountains, Hindu Kush, and the Indian Himalayas. The range contains 18 summits higher than in elevation, with four above : K2 ( AMSL) (the second-highest peak on Ear ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
List Of Mountain Peaks By Prominence
This is a list of mountain peaks ordered by their topographic prominence. Terminology The prominence of a peak is the minimum height of climb to the summit on any route from a higher peak, or from sea level if there is no higher peak. The lowest point on that route is the col. For full definitions and explanations of ''topographic prominence'', ''key col'', and ''parent'', see topographic prominence. In particular, the different definitions of the parent of a peak are addressed at length in that article. ''Height'' on the other hand simply means elevation of the summit above sea level. Regarding parents, the ''prominence parent'' of peak A can be found by dividing the island or region in question into territories, by tracing the runoff from the key col (mountain pass) of every peak that is more prominent than peak A. The parent is the peak whose territory peak A resides in. The ''encirclement parent'' is found by tracing the contour below peak A's key col and picking the hi ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
List Of Highest Mountains On Earth
There are at least 108 mountains on Earth with elevations of or greater above sea level. Of these, 14 are more than . The vast majority of these mountains are part of either the Himalayas or the Karakoram mountain ranges located on the edge of the Indian Plate and Eurasian Plate in China, India, Nepal, and Pakistan. Discussion The dividing line between a mountain with multiple peaks and separate mountains is not always clear (see also Highest unclimbed mountain). A popular and intuitive way to distinguish mountains from subsidiary peaks is by their height above the highest saddle connecting it to a higher summit, a measure called topographic prominence or re-ascent (the higher summit is called the "parent peak"). A common definition of a mountain is a summit with prominence. Alternatively, a relative prominence (prominence/height) is used (usually 7–8%) to reflect that in higher mountain ranges everything is on a larger scale. The table below lists the highest 100 summit ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its summit. Its height was most recently measured in 2020 by Chinese and Nepali authorities as . Mount Everest attracts many climbers, including highly experienced mountaineers. There are two main climbing routes, one approaching the summit from the southeast in Nepal (known as the standard route) and the other from the north in Tibet. While not posing substantial technical climbing challenges on the standard route, Everest presents dangers such as altitude sickness, weather, and wind, as well as hazards from avalanches and the Khumbu Icefall. As of May 2024, 340 people have died on Everest. Over 200 bodies remain on the mountain and have not been removed due to the dangerous conditions. Climbers typically ascend only part of Mount Eve ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
