This is a list of climbers and mountaineers who are notable for their activities in
mountaineering
Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become mounta ...
(including
alpine climbing
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpi ...
),
rock climbing
Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending climbing routes, routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are documented in c ...
(including
aid climbing
Aid climbing is a form of rock climbing that uses mechanical devices and equipment, such as aiders (or ladders), for upward momentum. Aid climbing is contrasted with free climbing (in both its traditional or sport free climbing formats), whi ...
,
free climbing
Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber can only use climbing equipment for climbing protection but not as an artificial aid to help them in ascending the route. Free climbing, therefore, cannot use any of the tools that ...
,
bouldering
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
,
speed climbing
Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.
Competition speed climbing, which takes place on a ...
and
competition climbing
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing, rock-climbing competition held indoor climbing, indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition ...
) or in
ice climbing
Ice climbing is a climbing discipline that involves ascending routes consisting entirely of frozen water. To ascend, the ice climber uses specialist equipment, particularly double ice axes (or the more modern ice tools) and rigid crampons. ...
(including
mixed climbing
Mixed climbing is an ice climbing discipline used on climbing routes that do not have enough ice to be regular ice climbs, but are also not dry enough to be regular rock climbing, rock climbs. To ascend the route, the mixed-climber uses ice-cli ...
).
A
*
Vitaly Abalakov
Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov () ( – 26 May 1986Great Russian Encyclopedia (2006), Moscow: Bol'shaya Rossiyskaya Enciklopediya Publisher, vol. 1, p. 9) was a Soviet chemical engineer, mountaineer and inventor.
Brother of Yevgeniy Abalakov, a ...
(1906–1992) Russia, climbed
Lenin Peak
Lenin Peak or Ibn Sina (Avicenna) Peak (, ; ; , renamed () in July 2006 (Tajik); for Russian tex Khan Tengri
Khan Tengri is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range in Central Asia. It is on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan tripoint, east of lake Issyk-Kul, Issyk Kul in Kyrgyzstan. Its geologic elevation is , but its glacial icecap rises to ...
(1936)
*
Yevgeniy Abalakov
Yevgeniy Mikhaylovich Abalakov (; 23 March 1948Great Russian Encyclopedia (2006), Moscow: Bol'shaya Rossiyskaya Enciklopediya Publisher, vol. 1, p. 9) was a Soviet mountaineer and sculptor.
Abalakov was born in Yeniseysk. He is noted for making ...
(1907–1948) Russia, climbed
Communism Peak
Ismoil Somoni Peak (; ) is the highest mountain in Tajikistan, as well as the former Russian Empire and Soviet Union before Tajikistan's independence. The mountain is named after Ismail Samani, a ruler of the Samanid dynasty. It is located in th ...
(1933)
* Premlata Agarwal (born 1963) India, first Indian woman to complete all
Seven Summits
The Seven Summits are the highest mountains on each of the seven traditional continents. On 30 April 1985, Richard Bass became the first climber to reach the summit of all seven.
In January 2023, ''Climbing (magazine), Climbing'' said "Today, t ...
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
in 1965
*
Pierre Allain
Pierre Allain (7 January 1904 – 19 December 2000) was a French alpinist who began climbing in the 1920s. In the 1930s he was joined by several others at Fontainebleau, where his group of "'Bleausards" developed a love of bouldering that went bey ...
(1904–2000) France, developed bouldering at
Fontainebleau
Fontainebleau ( , , ) is a Communes of France, commune in the Functional area (France), metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the Kilometre zero#France, centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a Subprefectures in Franc ...
, and rubber rock-climbing shoes
* Rick Allen (1954–2021) UK, first ascent of
Mazeno Ridge
The Mazeno Ridge is an arête, a long narrow ridge, and part of the Nanga Parbat massif in Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan, in the Himalayan range. The ridge is the longest of any ridge on the eight-thousander peaks in the Himalayas. A series of e ...
,
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
*
Christian Almer
220px, Christian Almer
Christian Almer (29 March 1826 – 17 May 1898) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascensionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the golden and silver ages of alpinism. Almer was born and di ...
(1826–1898) Switzerland, numerous first ascents, including
Eiger
The Eiger () is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends ...
*
Ashraf Aman
Ashraf Aman (, born 15 January 1938) is a Pakistani mountaineer, adventurer, and engineer. In 1977, he became the first Pakistani to reach the summit of K2. He operates the travel and tourism-based company "Adventure Tours Pakistan". He is al ...
Mount Saint Elias
Mount Saint Elias (Was'eitushaa also designated Boundary Peak 186), the second-highest mountain in both Canada and the United States, stands on the Yukon and Alaska border about southwest of Mount Logan, the highest mountain in Canada. The Cana ...
,
Rwenzori Mountains
The Rwenzori (also known as the Ruwenzori, Rwenzururu or Rwenjura) are a range of mountains in eastern equatorial Africa, located on the border between Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The highest peak of the Ruwenzori reaches ...
*
Pat Ament
Pat Ament (born September 3, 1946) is an American rock climber, filmmaker, musician, and artist who lives in Elko, Nevada. Noted for first ascents in the 1960s and 1970s, he is the author of many articles and books.
Climbing career
Ament began ...
(born 1946) US, rock climber, and pioneer boulderer
*
Melchior Anderegg
Melchior Anderegg (28 March 1828 – 8 December 1914), from Zaun, Meiringen, was a Switzerland, Swiss mountain guide and the first ascent, first ascensionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the Golden age of alpinism, golden ...
(1827–1912) Switzerland, guide, with numerous first ascents, including on
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc (, ) is a mountain in the Alps, rising above sea level, located right at the Franco-Italian border. It is the highest mountain in Europe outside the Caucasus Mountains, the second-most prominent mountain in Europe (after Mount E ...
*
Conrad Anker
Conrad Anker (born November 27, 1962) is an American rock climber, mountaineer, and author. He was the team leader of The North Face climbing team for 26 years until 2018. In 1999, he located George Mallory's body on Everest as a member of a sea ...
(born 1963) US, discovered Mallory's body on Everest in 1999
*
Tyler Armstrong
Tyler Robert Armstrong (born January 22, 2004) is an American mountain climber who became the youngest person to climb Aconcagua in Argentina at the age of 9.
Mountaineering career
Beginning
Armstrong started his career as mountain climber at t ...
(born 2004) US, in 2013, at age 9, the youngest to climb
Aconcagua
Aconcagua () is a mountain in the Principal Cordillera of the Andes mountain range, in Mendoza Province, Argentina. It is the highest mountain in the Americas, the highest outside Asia, and the highest in both the Western Hemisphere and the ...
*
Melissa Arnot
Melissa Arnot Reid (born December 18, 1983) is an American mountaineer. She has climbed to the summit of Mount Everest six times.
Life and career
Arnot was raised just outside Glacier National Park in Whitefish, Montana. After college, she began ...
(born 1983) US, six ascents of Everest
*
Bernd Arnold
Bernd Arnold (born 28 February 1947) is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He is known for more than 900 first ascents in the East German Saxon Switzerland climbing region. During the 1970s and 1980s, he established most of the hardest routes ...
(born 1947) Germany, more than 900 first ascents in
Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland (, ) is a hilly climbing area and national park in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. It is located around the Elbe valley south-east of Dresden in Saxony, Germany, adjoining Bohemian Switzerland in the Czech Republic. Toge ...
* Armando Aste (1926–2017) Italy, first Italian ascent of the
Eiger
The Eiger () is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends ...
north face
*
Peter Athans
Peter Athans (born March 1, 1957) is one of the world's foremost high-altitude mountaineers. In 2008 he was celebrated for summiting Mount Everest seven times, and was given the moniker "Mr. Everest". His first attempt to climb Everest in 1985 vi ...
(born 1957) US, seven ascents of Mount Everest
*
Peter Aufschnaiter
Peter Aufschnaiter (2 November 1899 – 12 October 1973) was an Austrian mountaineer, agricultural scientist, geographer and cartographer. His experiences with fellow climber Heinrich Harrer during World War II were depicted in the 1997 film '' ...
(1899–1973) Austria, mountaineer; friend of
Heinrich Harrer
Heinrich Harrer (; 6 July 1912 – 7 January 2006) was an Austrian mountaineer, explorer, writer, sportsman, geographer, and briefly SS sergeant. He was a member of the four-man climbing team that made the first ascent of the North Face of the ...
(per ''
Seven Years in Tibet
''Seven Years in Tibet: My Life Before, During and After'' (1952; (''Seven years in Tibet. My life at the court of the Dalai Lama''); 1954 in English) is an autobiographical travel book written by Austrian mountaineer and Nazi SS sergeant Heinr ...
'')
*
Abdul Jabbar Bhatti
Abdul Jabbar Bhatti is a Pakistani mountaineer and paraglider. He served in the Pakistani Army until he retired as lieutenant colonel. In 1985, he climbed Broad Peak, in 1986 Gasherbrum II, and later in 2012, he climbed Spantik. In 2017, he ...
, Pakistani mountaineer and the former military officer of the
Pakistan Army
The Pakistan Army (, ), commonly known as the Pak Army (), is the Land warfare, land service branch and the largest component of the Pakistan Armed Forces. The president of Pakistan is the Commander-in-chief, supreme commander of the army. The ...
*
Nelly Attar
Nelly Attar () is a mountaineer from Lebanon/Saudi Arabia who in 2022, became the first Arab woman to summit K2. Attar is a former psychologist. She has an MRes in psychology and has worked four years as a therapist, prior to shifting into sport ...
(born 1990) Saudi/Lebanese, was the first Arab woman to summit K2 (2022).
*
Cecilia Llusco Alaña
Cecilia Llusco Alaña (born 1985), an Indigenous Bolivian mountaineer, founder of the ''Cholitas Escaladoras Bolivianas'' or Cholita Climbers of Bolivia, has scaled mountains in South America, including '' Huayna Potosi'', a 6,088 meter high peak i ...
Aconcagua
Aconcagua () is a mountain in the Principal Cordillera of the Andes mountain range, in Mendoza Province, Argentina. It is the highest mountain in the Americas, the highest outside Asia, and the highest in both the Western Hemisphere and the ...
in Indigenous costume.
B
*
Samina Baig
Samina Khayal Baig (; born 19 September 1990) is a Pakistani mountaineer who climbed Mount Everest in 2013, all Seven Summits by 2014, and K2 in 2022. She is the first Pakistani woman to climb Everest, K2 and the Seven Summits. She climbed Mt. ...
(born 1990) Pakistan, third Pakistani, and the first Pakistani woman, to climb
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
*
John Bachar
John Bachar (March 23, 1957 – July 5, 2009) was an American rock climber. Noted for his skill at free soloing, he ultimately died during a free solo climb. A fitness fanatic, he was the creator of the climbing training device known as the Bac ...
free soloist
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs solo (or alone) without ropes or other protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their climbing chalk. Free soloing ...
Ireland
Ireland (, ; ; Ulster Scots dialect, Ulster-Scots: ) is an island in the North Atlantic Ocean, in Northwestern Europe. Geopolitically, the island is divided between the Republic of Ireland (officially Names of the Irish state, named Irelan ...
,
alpinist
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpi ...
,
climbing guidebook
Climbing guidebooks are used by mountaineers, alpinists, ice climbers, and rock climbers to locate, grade, and navigate climbing routes on mountains, climbing crags, or bouldering areas. Modern route guidebooks include detailed information o ...
author, first president of
Alpine Club
Alpine clubs are typically large social clubs that revolve around climbing, hiking, and other outdoor activities. Many alpine clubs also take on aspects typically reserved for local sport associations, providing education and training courses, se ...
(1857)
*
Jacques Balmat
Jacques Balmat (), called ''Balmat du Mont Blanc'' (1762–1834) was a mountaineer, a Savoyard mountain guide, born in the Chamonix valley in Savoy. He is known for the first ascent of Mont Blanc with physician Michel-Gabriel Paccard on 8 August ...
(1762–1834)
Duchy of Savoy
The Duchy of Savoy (; ) was a territorial entity of the Savoyard state that existed from 1416 until 1847 and was a possession of the House of Savoy.
It was created when Sigismund, Holy Roman Emperor, raised the County of Savoy into a duchy f ...
, Chamonix-based guide, first ascent Mont Blanc (1786)
*
George Band
George Christopher Band (2 February 1929 – 26 August 2011) was an English mountaineer. He was the youngest climber on the 1953 British expedition to Mount Everest on which Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first to ascend the mou ...
(1929–2011) UK, first ascent of
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
Kinga Baranowska
Kinga Baranowska (born 17 November 1975 in Wejherowo) is a Polish mountaineer. She made ascents of nine eight-thousanders and is the first Polish woman to have climbed Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Kangchenjunga. She has also climbed the seven summit ...
(born 1975) Poland, first Polish woman to climb
Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition.
Annapur ...
,
Manaslu
Manaslu (; , also known as Kutang) is the List of highest mountains#List, eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the ...
and
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
* Anna Barańska (born 1976) Poland, first Polish woman to climb the North Face of
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
* Henry Barber (born 1953) US, leading US rock climber in the 1970s
*
Andrzej Bargiel
Andrzej Leszek Bargiel (; born April 18, 1988, in Rabka, Poland) is a Polish ski mountaineer, backcountry skier, mountain runner and climber. Raised in Łętownia, he is a three-time Polish ski mountaineering champion and held third place in ...
(born 1988) Poland,
Snow Leopard
The snow leopard (''Panthera uncia'') is a species of large cat in the genus ''Panthera'' of the family Felidae. The species is native to the mountain ranges of Central and South Asia. It is listed as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List because ...
record holder, several first
ski mountaineering
Ski mountaineering (abbreviated to skimo) is a skiing discipline that involves climbing mountains either on skis or carrying them, depending on the steepness of the ascent, and then descending on skis. There are two major categories of equipment ...
descents of
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
Eiger
The Eiger () is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends ...
(1858)
*
Richard Bass
Richard Daniel Bass (December 21, 1929 – July 26, 2015) was an American businessman, rancher and mountaineer. He was the owner of Snowbird Ski Resort in Utah and the first man to climb the "Seven Summits", the tallest mountain on each continen ...
(1929–2015) US, businessman and amateur mountaineer, first to complete the
Seven Summits
The Seven Summits are the highest mountains on each of the seven traditional continents. On 30 April 1985, Richard Bass became the first climber to reach the summit of all seven.
In January 2023, ''Climbing (magazine), Climbing'' said "Today, t ...
Mount Lucania
__NOTOC__
Mount Lucania is a mountain in the Yukon territory, Canada. At , it is the third-highest mountain in both Canada and the Saint Elias Mountains. A long ridge connects Mount Lucania with Mount Steele (), the fifth-highest in Canada.
Lucan ...
(1937), part of US attempts on K2 in
1938
Events
January
* January 1 – state-owned enterprise, State-owned railway networks are created by merger, in France (SNCF) and the Netherlands (Nederlandse Spoorwegen – NS).
* January 20 – King Farouk of Egypt marries Saf ...
and
1953
Events
January
* January 6 – The Asian Socialist Conference opens in Rangoon, Burma.
* January 12 – Estonian émigrés found a Estonian government-in-exile, government-in-exile in Oslo.
* January 14
** Marshal Josip Broz Tito ...
*
Mark Beaufoy
Colonel Mark Beaufoy FRS (4 March 1764 – 4 May 1827) was an English astronomer and physicist, mountaineer, explorer and British Army officer. His father, Mark Beaufoy (1718–1782), who was originally from Evesham, established a vinegar facto ...
(1764–1827) UK, fourth ascent
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc (, ) is a mountain in the Alps, rising above sea level, located right at the Franco-Italian border. It is the highest mountain in Europe outside the Caucasus Mountains, the second-most prominent mountain in Europe (after Mount E ...
(1787)
*
Fred Beckey
Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey (14 January 1923 – 30 October 2017), known as Fred Beckey, was an American rock climber, mountaineer and book author, who in seven decades of climbing achieved hundreds of first ascents of some of the tallest peaks and ...
(Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey) (1923–2017) Germany/US, many
first ascent
In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in climbing guidebook, guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers a ...
s of North American peaks
*
Bentley Beetham
Bentley Beetham (1 May 1886 – 5 April 1963) was an English mountaineer, ornithologist and photographer, and a member of the 1924 British Mount Everest expedition.1924 Everest expedition; pioneer rock climber in
Borrowdale
Borrowdale is a valley and civil parish in the English Lake District in Cumberland (unitary authority), Cumberland, England. It is in the ceremonial county of Cumbria, and is sometimes referred to as ''Cumberland Borrowdale'' to distinguis ...
*
George Irving Bell
George Irving Bell (August 4, 1926 – May 28, 2000) was an American physicist, biologist and mountaineer, and a grandson of John Joseph Seerley.physicist
A physicist is a scientist who specializes in the field of physics, which encompasses the interactions of matter and energy at all length and time scales in the physical universe. Physicists generally are interested in the root or ultimate cau ...
,
biologist
A biologist is a scientist who conducts research in biology. Biologists are interested in studying life on Earth, whether it is an individual Cell (biology), cell, a multicellular organism, or a Community (ecology), community of Biological inter ...
and mountaineer, first ascent
Masherbrum
Masherbrum, formerly known as K1, is a mountain located in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of the Karakoram mountain range. It has an elevation of 7,821 metres (25,659 feet), ranking as the 22nd highest mountain in the world and the 9th highest ...
(1960), rescued on K2 (1953)
*
Gertrude Bell
Gertrude Margaret Lowthian Bell (14 July 1868 – 12 July 1926) was an English writer, traveller, political officer, administrator, and archaeologist. She spent much of her life exploring and mapping the Middle East, and became highly inf ...
(1868–1926) UK, many ascents in the Alps; the Swiss peak Gertrudspitze was named in her honor
*
Maciej Berbeka
Maciej Berbeka (17 October 1954 – 6 March 2013) was a Polish mountaineer and mountain guide.
Berbeka made the first-ever winter ascent of three eight-thousanders: Manaslu, on 12 January 1984 with Ryszard Gajewski, and Cho Oyu, on 12 Fe ...
(1954–2013) Poland, first winter ascents of 3
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s:
Manaslu
Manaslu (; , also known as Kutang) is the List of highest mountains#List, eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the ...
,
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
, and
Broad Peak
Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
*
Josune Bereziartu
Josune Bereziartu (born January 19, 1972), also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world and is regarded as one of t ...
(born 1972)
Basque
Basque may refer to:
* Basques, an ethnic group of Spain and France
* Basque language, their language
Places
* Basque Country (greater region), the homeland of the Basque people with parts in both Spain and France
* Basque Country (autonomous co ...
(Spain),
first
First most commonly refers to:
* First, the ordinal form of the number 1
First or 1st may also refer to:
Acronyms
* Faint Images of the Radio Sky at Twenty-Centimeters, an astronomical survey carried out by the Very Large Array
* Far Infrared a ...
female to climb
grade
Grade most commonly refers to:
* Grading in education, a measurement of a student's performance by educational assessment (e.g. A, pass, etc.)
* A designation for students, classes and curricula indicating the number of the year a student has reach ...
, , and
*
Patrick Berhault
Patrick Berhault (19 July 1957 – 28 April 2004) was a French professional rock climber and mountaineer, who specialized in sport climbing and alpine climbing. He died climbing the Dom ridge, Switzerland, during his attempt to do an enchainm ...
(1957–2004) France, several first free ascents of major
sport climbing
Sport climbing (or bolted climbing) is a type of free climbing in the sport of rock climbing where the Lead climbing, lead climber clips their climbing rope, rope — via a quickdraw — into pre-drilled in-situ bolt (climbing), bolts for their ...
and
alpine climbing
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpi ...
routes
*
Didier Berthod
Didier Berthod (born 1981) is a Swiss rock climber and priest. He specializes in traditional climbing, and crack climbing in particular.
Climbing career
In 2003, Berthod came to international prominence when he pinkpointed the unfinished sport ...
(born 1981) Switzerland, leading traditional climber who quit after failing on ''
Cobra Crack
Cobra Crack is a long traditional climbing route on a thin crack up an overhanging granite rock face on Stawamus Chief, in Squamish, British Columbia. The route was first ascended by Peter Croft and Tami Knight in 1981 as an aid climb. Afte ...
''
* Adam Bielecki (born 1983) Poland, first winter ascents of 2 eight-thousanders:
Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I, originally surveyed as K5, and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is located between Shigar District in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and Tashkurgan in the Xi ...
and
Broad Peak
Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
* John Biggar (born 1964) Scotland, several first ascents in the
Andes
The Andes ( ), Andes Mountains or Andean Mountain Range (; ) are the List of longest mountain chains on Earth, longest continental mountain range in the world, forming a continuous highland along the western edge of South America. The range ...
*
Isabella Bird
Isabella Lucy Bishop (; 15 October 1831 – 7 October 1904) was an English explorer, writer, photographer and naturalist. Alongside fellow Englishwoman Fanny Jane Butler, she founded the John Bishop Memorial Hospital in Srinagar in modern-da ...
(1831–1904) UK, traveler, writer, and natural historian; first female fellow of the
Royal Geographical Society
The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers), often shortened to RGS, is a learned society and professional body for geography based in the United Kingdom. Founded in 1830 for the advancement of geographical scien ...
*
Barry Blanchard
Barry Kenneth Blanchard (born March 29, 1959) is one of North America's top alpine climbers, noted for pushing the standards of highly technical, high-risk alpine climbing, ice climbing, and mixed climbing in the Canadian Rockies and the Himalay ...
(born 1959) Canada, mountain guide; first ascents in the Saint Elias range of Alaska
* Smoke Blanchard (1915–1989) US, developed
The Buttermilks
The Buttermilks, or Buttermilk Country, is a well-known bouldering destination near Bishop, California. It comprises the western edge of the Owens Valley, in the eastern foothills of the Sierra Nevada.
Buttermilk Country is renowned for its large ...
bouldering
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
area in
Bishop, California
Bishop (formerly Bishop Creek) is the only incorporated city in Inyo County, California, United States. It is located near the northern end of the Owens Valley within the Mojave Desert, at an elevation of . The city was named after Bishop Creek ...
*
Karl Blodig
Karl Blodig (16 October 1859 – 7 September 1956) was an Austrian mountaineer, optician, and writer. Blodig was the first to successfully climb all Alpine peaks of over 4000 meters, completing his final summit around 1911. He wrote about these c ...
(1859–1956) Austria, mountaineer,
optician
An optician is an individual who fits glasses or contact lenses by filling a refractive prescription from an optometrist or ophthalmologist. They are able to translate and adapt ophthalmic prescriptions, dispense products, and work with acces ...
and
journalist
A journalist is a person who gathers information in the form of text, audio or pictures, processes it into a newsworthy form and disseminates it to the public. This is called journalism.
Roles
Journalists can work in broadcast, print, advertis ...
Arlene Blum
Arlene Blum (born March 1, 1945Breaking Trail: A Climbing Life, page 34Chapter 24 /ref>) is an American mountaineer, writer, and environmental health scientist. She is best known for leading the first successful American ascent of Annapurna (I ...
(born 1945) US, part of the first US female attempt on
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
Peter Boardman
Peter Boardman (25 December 1950 – 17 May 1982) was an English mountaineer and author. He is best known for a series of bold and lightweight expeditions to the Himalayas, often in partnership with Joe Tasker, and for his contribution to mount ...
(1950–1982) UK, Everest 1975,
Changabang
Changabang is a mountain in the Garhwal Division, Garhwal Himalayas of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it ...
1976,
Kanchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
1979, died on Everest with
Joe Tasker
Joe Tasker (12 May 1948 – 17 May 1982) was a British Climbing, climber, active during the late 1970s and early 1980s. He died while climbing Mount Everest.
Early life
Born into a Roman Catholic family in 1948, Tasker was the second of ten ...
*
Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau
Jules Henri Emmanuel Boileau, baron de Castelnau (; 1857-1923) was a French people, French alpinist and sportsman who took part in the first ascent of the Meije. After his career as an alpinist he competed as an amateur cyclist.
Biography
Boil ...
(1857–1923) France, first ascent
La Meije
La Meije is a mountain in the Massif des Écrins range, located at the border of the Hautes-Alpes and Isère '' départements''. It overlooks the nearby village of La Grave, a mountaineering centre and ski resort, well known for its off-pis ...
Jean-Marc Boivin
Jean-Marc Boivin (6 April 1951 – 17 February 1990) was a French mountaineer, extreme skier, hang glider and paraglider pilot, speleologist, BASE jumper, film maker and author. The holder of several altitude records for hang gliding and paragl ...
(1951–1990) France, first ascents of extreme alpine routes, pioneer of
extreme skiing
Extreme skiing is a form of skiing performed on long, steep (typically from 45 to 60+ degrees, or grades of 100 to 170 percent) slopes in mountainous terrain. The French coined the term 'Le Ski Extreme' in the 1970s. The first practitioners incl ...
and
BASE jumping
BASE jumping () is the recreational sport of jumping from fixed objects, using a parachute to descend to the ground. BASE is an acronym that stands for four categories of fixed objects from which one can jump: buildings, antenna (radio), antenna ...
*
Walter Bonatti
Walter Bonatti (; 22 June 1930 – 13 September 2011) was an Italian people, Italian mountaineer, alpinist, explorer and journalist. He was noted for many climbing achievements, including a Solo climbing, solo climb of a new alpine climbing route ...
(1930–2011) Italy, mountaineer and writer, solo new routes on
Aiguille du Dru
The Aiguille du Dru (also the Dru or the Drus; French, Les Drus) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps. It is situated to the east of the village of Les Praz in the Chamonix valley. "Aiguille" means "needle" in French.
The ...
and
Matterhorn
The , ; ; ; or ; ; . is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the Main chain of the Alps, main watershed and border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, ...
* Sir
Chris Bonington
Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL (born 6 August 1934) is a British mountaineer.
His career has included nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest.
Early life and expeditions
Bonington's father, ...
(born 1934) UK, first ascent of Freney Pillar (1961), Tower of Paine (1962–3); ascent of 3
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s
*
Thomas George Bonney
Thomas George Bonney (27 July 1833 – 10 December 1923) was an English geologist, president of the Geological Society of London.
Career
Bonney was born in Rugeley, Staffordshire, England, the eldest son of the Reverend Thomas Bonney, headm ...
(1833–1923) UK, geologist and mountaineer, president of the
Alpine Club
Alpine clubs are typically large social clubs that revolve around climbing, hiking, and other outdoor activities. Many alpine clubs also take on aspects typically reserved for local sport associations, providing education and training courses, se ...
* Jack Borgenicht (1911–2005) US, garment manufacturer, philanthropist, the oldest person to climb
Mount Rainier
Mount Rainier ( ), also known as Tahoma, is a large active stratovolcano in the Cascade Range of the Pacific Northwest in the United States. The mountain is located in Mount Rainier National Park about south-southeast of Seattle. With an off ...
at age 81
* Alastair Borthwick (1913–2003) Scotland, climber and author of ''Always a Little Further''
*
Christine Boskoff
Christine Boskoff (September 7, 1967 – November 14, 2006 (estimated)) was an American mountaineer.
Early life
Christine Joyce Feld (her maiden name) was the youngest of four children (with three older brothers) of Robin and Joyce Feld. She was ...
(1967–2006) US, 6
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
Sébastien Bouin
Sébastien Bouin (born 7 April 1993) is a French rock climber born in Draguignan. By 2022, Bouin is regarded as one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, being only the second-ever climber to establish a route graded , with ' in 2022, ...
(born 1993) France, first ascent of ''DNA'' (2022), the world's second-ever route
*
Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Nikolaevich Boukreev (; January 16, 1958 – December 25, 1997) was a Kazakh mountaineer who made ascents of 10 of the 14 eight-thousander peaks—those above —without supplemental oxygen. From 1989 through 1997, he made 18 successful as ...
(1958–1997) Russia, 7
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s without oxygen, part of
1996 Everest disaster
The 1996 Mount Everest disaster occurred on 10–11 May 1996 when eight expedition climbing, climbers caught in a blizzard died on Mount Everest while attempting to descend from the summit. Over the entire season, 12 people died trying to reach ...
, died on
Annapurna
Annapurna (; ) is a mountain situated in the Annapurna mountain range of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. It is the 10th highest mountain in the world at above sea level and is well known for the difficulty and danger involved in its as ...
*
Loulou Boulaz
Louise "Loulou" Boulaz (6 February 1908 – 13 June 1991) was a Switzerland, Swiss Mountaineering, mountain climber and alpine skier who made numerous first ascents in the Alps.
Biography
Boulaz was born in Avenches, Switzerland. She attended ...
(1908–1991) Switzerland, several first ascents and first female ascents in the Alps
*
Tom Bourdillon
Thomas Duncan Bourdillon ( ; 16 March 1924 – 29 July 1956) was an English mountaineer and member of the 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition which made the first ascent of Mount Everest. He died in Valais, Switzerland, on 29 July 1956 aged 32 ...
(1924–1956) UK,
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
(1952), part of
1953 British Everest expedition
The 1953 British Mount Everest expedition was the ninth mountaineering expedition to attempt the first ascent of Mount Everest, and the first confirmed to have succeeded when Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary reached the summit on 29 May 1953. ...
, first to Everest South Summit (1953)
*
Stipe Božić
Stipe Božić (born 2 January 1951) is a Croatian mountaineer, documentary filmmaker and photographer. He is the most successful Croatian Himalayan climber. Božić completed the Seven Summits and is the second European, after Reinhold Messner ...
(born 1951) FPR Yugoslavia, completed the
Seven Summits
The Seven Summits are the highest mountains on each of the seven traditional continents. On 30 April 1985, Richard Bass became the first climber to reach the summit of all seven.
In January 2023, ''Climbing (magazine), Climbing'' said "Today, t ...
, second European to climb
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
twice
*
Lydia Bradey
Lydia Pounamu Bradey (born 9 October 1961) is a New Zealand mountaineer. She became the first woman to summit Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen in 1988. She has climbed Mount Everest a total of six times.
Early life
Lydia Bradey was bo ...
(born 1961) New Zealand, first woman to climb
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
without supplementary oxygen 1988
* Samuel Brawand (1898–2001) Switzerland, politician, and mountain guide; first ascent of Mittellegigrat (1921)
*
David Breashears
David Finlay Breashears (December 20, 1955 – March 14, 2024) was an American mountaineer, filmmaker, author and motivational speaker. In 1985, he reached the summit of Mount Everest a second time, becoming the first American to reach the summi ...
(born 1956) US, Everest twice, directed
IMAX
IMAX is a proprietary system of High-definition video, high-resolution cameras, film formats, film projectors, and movie theater, theaters known for having very large screens with a tall aspect ratio (image), aspect ratio (approximately ei ...
film ''
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
''
*
Meta Brevoort
Marguerite "Meta" Claudia Brevoort (November 8, 1825 – December 19, 1876) was an American mountain climber and pioneer in alpine history, known for her many first ascents and as a trailblazer in winter mountaineering.
In the Dauphiné Alps, Ha ...
(1825–1876) US, alpinist of
Victorian period
In the history of the United Kingdom and the British Empire, the Victorian era was the reign of Queen Victoria, from 20 June 1837 until her death on 22 January 1901. Slightly different definitions are sometimes used. The era followed th ...
, aunt of
W. A. B. Coolidge
William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge (; August 28, 1850 – May 8, 1926) was an American historian, theologian and mountaineer.
Early life and education
William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge was born in New York City in 1850 as the son of Frederi ...
*
Russell Brice
Russell Reginald Brice (born 3 July 1952) is a New Zealand mountaineer. He was the owner/manager of Himex (Himalayan Experience Ltd.), a climbing expedition company. He has summited Cho Oyu seven times, Himal Chuli and Mount Everest twice, as w ...
(born 1952) New Zealand, set record for fastest solo ascent without oxygen of
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
and
Ama Dablam
Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Eastern Himalayas range of Koshi Province, Nepal. The main peak is , the lower western peak is . Ama Dablam means "mother's necklace"; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (''ama'') protecting he ...
*
Jim Bridwell
Jim Bridwell (July 29, 1944 – February 16, 2018) was an American rock climber and mountaineer, active from 1965 in Yosemite Valley, but later in Patagonia and Alaska. He was noted for pushing the standards of both aid climbing and big wall ...
(1944–2018) US, first ascents of major aid routes on
El Capitan
El Capitan (; ) is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granite monolith is about from base to summit alo ...
David Brower
David Ross Brower ( ; July 1, 1912 – November 5, 2000) was a prominent environmentalist and the founder of many environmental organizations, including the John Muir Institute for Environmental Studies (1997), Friends of the Earth (1969), Ear ...
(1912–2000) US, executive director of
Sierra Club
The Sierra Club is an American environmental organization with chapters in all 50 U.S. states, Washington, D.C., Washington D.C., and Puerto Rico. The club was founded in 1892, in San Francisco, by preservationist John Muir. A product of the Pro ...
and
Yosemite
Yosemite National Park ( ) is a national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service ...
Aiguille de Blaitière
The Aiguille de Blaitière (3,522 m) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc Massif in Haute-Savoie, France
France, officially the French Republic, is a country located primarily in Western Europe. Overseas France, Its overseas regions and territor ...
west face, and
Kanchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
(1955)
* Katie Brown (born 1981) US, pioneer female
competition climber
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing
Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly ...
and
big wall climber
Big wall climbing is a form of rock climbing that takes place on long and sheer multi-pitch routes (of ''at least'' 6–10 pitches or 300–500 metres) that require a full day, if not several days, to ascend. Big wall routes are sustained and ...
* Adriana Brownlee (born 2001) UK, youngest woman to climb all 14
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
(1922).
*
Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl (21 September 1924 – 27 June 1957) was an Austrian mountaineer. His accomplishments include the first ascents of Nanga Parbat in 1953 and Broad Peak in 1957. Buhl is the father of Austrian-German writer, publisher, and freelan ...
(1924–1957) Austria, first ascent
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
(1953) and of
Broad Peak
Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
(1957), died on
Chogolisa
Chogolisa ( derived from ''Chogo Ling Sa''; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal mountain located in the Karakoram range within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It is situated near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region, which i ...
*
Alexander Burgener
Alexander Burgener
Alexander Burgener (10 January 1845, Saas Fee – 8 July 1910, near the Berglihütte) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many mountains and new routes in the western Alps during the silver age of alpini ...
Aiguille du Grépon
The Aiguille du Grépon (literally the ''Needle of Grépon''), informally known as The Grepon, is a mountain in the Mont Blanc Massif in Haute-Savoie, France. The Grepon has a Southern (3,482 m) and Northern (3,478 m) peak, which are the highest ...
Jean Buridan
Jean Buridan (; ; Latin: ''Johannes Buridanus''; – ) was an influential 14thcentury French scholastic philosopher.
Buridan taught in the faculty of arts at the University of Paris for his entire career and focused in particular on logic and ...
(c. 1300–1358) France, climbed
Mont Ventoux
Mont Ventoux (; ) is a mountain in the Provence region of southern France, located some northeast of Carpentras, Vaucluse. On the north side, the mountain borders the department of Drôme. At , it is the highest mountain in the region and h ...
for the view, before
Petrarch
Francis Petrarch (; 20 July 1304 – 19 July 1374; ; modern ), born Francesco di Petracco, was a scholar from Arezzo and poet of the early Italian Renaissance, as well as one of the earliest Renaissance humanism, humanists.
Petrarch's redis ...
C
*
Tommy Caldwell
Tommy Caldwell (born August 11, 1978) is an American rock climber who has set records in sport climbing, traditional climbing, and in big-wall climbing. Caldwell made the first free ascents of several major routes on El Capitan in Yosemite Na ...
El Capitan
El Capitan (; ) is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granite monolith is about from base to summit alo ...
, including ''Dawn Wall'',
first
First most commonly refers to:
* First, the ordinal form of the number 1
First or 1st may also refer to:
Acronyms
* Faint Images of the Radio Sky at Twenty-Centimeters, an astronomical survey carried out by the Very Large Array
* Far Infrared a ...
at
* Una Cameron (1904–1987) UK, ascents in the Alps, Caucasus, and Africa
*
Louis Ramond de Carbonnières
Louis François Élisabeth Ramond, baron de Carbonnières (4 January 1755 Strasbourg – 14 May 1827), was a French politician, geologist and botanist. He is regarded as one of the first explorers of the high mountains of the Pyrenees who can be d ...
(1755–1827) France, scientist and Pyrenean pioneer
* Kim Carrigan (born 1958) Australia, first ascents of the first Ewbank grade 26, 27, 28, 29 and 30, routes.
*
Carlos Carsolio
Carlos Carsolio Larrea (born 4 October 1962 in Mexico City) is a Mexican mountain climber. Carsolio is known for being the fourth man (first non-European) and the second youngest to climb the world's 14 eight-thousanders, all of them without s ...
(born 1962) Mexico, the
fourth person
Within linguistics, obviative (abbreviated ) third person is a grammatical-person marking that distinguishes a referent that is less important to the discourse from one that is more important (proximate). The obviative is sometimes referred to a ...
to summit all 14
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s (1985–1996)
*
Riccardo Cassin
Riccardo Cassin (2 January 19096 August 2009) was an Italian Mountaineering, mountaineer, developer of Climbing equipment, mountaineering equipment and author, and an important figure in the history of rock climbing, alpine climbing and big wall ...
(1909–2009) Italy, equipment manufacturer and pioneer alpinist; first ascent of the north face of
Piz Badile
Piz Badile (3,308 m) is a mountain of the Bregaglia range in the Swiss canton of Graubünden and the Italian region of Lombardy. The border between the two countries runs along the summit ridge. Its north-east face, overlooking the Swiss Val B ...
(1937), and the north face of the
Grandes Jorasses
The Grandes Jorasses (; 4,208 m; 13,806 ft) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif, on the boundary between Haute-Savoie in France and Aosta Valley in Italy.
The first ascent of the highest peak of the mountain (''Pointe Walker'') was by H ...
Cristina Castagna
Cristina "El Grio" Castagna (23 December 1977 – 18 July 2009) was an Italian mountaineer and the first Italian woman to climb Makalu. She died in 2009 on Broad Peak, after reaching the summit.
Early life
Castagna was born near San Quiri ...
(1977–2009) Italy, first Italian female ascent of
Makalu
Makalu (; ) is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, with a summit at an elevation of AMSL. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas southeast of Mount Everest, on the China–Nepal border. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolat ...
, ascent of several other
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s
*
Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz
Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz (1942 – 17 October 1978) was a British mountaineer, painter, and lithography lecturer. She made the first ascent of Gasherbrum III, at the time the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz di ...
(1942–1978) Britain, first ascent of
Gasherbrum III
Gasherbrum III (); ), surveyed as K3a, is a summit in the Gasherbrum massif of the Baltoro Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram on the border between Xinjiang, China and Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It is situated between Gasherbrum II and IV.
...
*
Ludwik Chałubiński
Ludwik Chałubiński (2 August 1860, in Warsaw – 17 April 1933, in Zakopane) was a Polish alpinist and chemical engineer.
Son of Tytus Chałubiński, Ludwik started climbing the Tatras at the age of 14, initially with his father and then with hi ...
(1860–1933) Poland, first ascent of
Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki
Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki or the Mięguszowiecki Grand Peak () is a mountain in the Tatra Mountains, located on the border between Poland and Slovakia.
It is the highest of the three Mięguszowiecki Summits and the second-highest mountain i ...
*
Armand Charlet
Armand Charlet (9 February 1900, Argentière – December 1975) was a French mountaineer and mountain guide.
Alpinism
Charlet was amongst the most celebrated mountaineers and guides of his era. Alain de Chatellus regarded him as the "undisp ...
Alps
The Alps () are some of the highest and most extensive mountain ranges in Europe, stretching approximately across eight Alpine countries (from west to east): Monaco, France, Switzerland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Germany, Austria and Slovenia.
...
, first winter ascent of
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc (, ) is a mountain in the Alps, rising above sea level, located right at the Franco-Italian border. It is the highest mountain in Europe outside the Caucasus Mountains, the second-most prominent mountain in Europe (after Mount E ...
(1876)
*
Maxime Chaya
Maxime Chaya (; born 16 December 1961) is a Lebanese mountaineer and explorer. On May 15, 2006, he was the first Lebanese to climb Mount Everest and the Seven Summits. On December 28, 2007, Max also became the first from the Middle East to reach ...
(born 1961) Lebanon, climbed
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
(2006),
Seven Summits
The Seven Summits are the highest mountains on each of the seven traditional continents. On 30 April 1985, Richard Bass became the first climber to reach the summit of all seven.
In January 2023, ''Climbing (magazine), Climbing'' said "Today, t ...
and
Three Poles Challenge
The Three Poles is an adventurer’s challenge to reach the North Pole, the South Pole, and the summit of Mount Everest.
The first person to reach all three locations was Edmund Hillary. Hillary summited Everest in May 1953, reached the South Pol ...
* Chhurim (born 1984) Nepal, the first woman to summit
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
* Renata Chlumska (born 1973) Sweden, first Swedish female ascent of
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
(1999)
*
Yvon Chouinard
Yvon Chouinard (born November 9, 1938) is an American rock climber, environmentalist, and businessman. His company, Patagonia, sells outdoor products, outerwear, and food. He was named one of the 100 most influential people in the world by '' ...
(born 1938) US, pioneer of big wall and aid climbing in
Yosemite
Yosemite National Park ( ) is a national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service ...
Patagonia
Patagonia () is a geographical region that includes parts of Argentina and Chile at the southern end of South America. The region includes the southern section of the Andes mountain chain with lakes, fjords, temperate rainforests, and glaciers ...
*
Leszek Cichy
Leszek Roman Cichy (born 14 November 1951), () is a Polish climber, financier, and entrepreneur. He was born in Pruszków, Poland on 14 November 1951. He achieved the first winter ascent of Mount Everest together with Krzysztof Wielicki in 1980 w ...
(born 1951) Poland,
first winter ascent
In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers focused ...
of
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
with
Krzysztof Wielicki
Krzysztof Jerzy Wielicki (Polish pronunciation: ; born 5 January 1950) is a Polish mountaineer, regarded as one of the greatest Polish climbers in history. He is the 5th man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders and the first ever to climb Mount ...
* John Clarke (1945–2003) Ireland-Canada, explorer with over 600 first ascents in Coast Range of
British Columbia
British Columbia is the westernmost Provinces and territories of Canada, province of Canada. Situated in the Pacific Northwest between the Pacific Ocean and the Rocky Mountains, the province has a diverse geography, with rugged landscapes that ...
Cholatse
Cholatse (), also known as Jobo Lhaptshan, is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalaya. Cholatse is connected to Taboche (6,501m) by a long ridge, with the Chola glacier descending from the mountain's east face. The north and e ...
(1982), numerous first routes ascents in
Sierra Nevada
The Sierra Nevada ( ) is a mountain range in the Western United States, between the Central Valley of California and the Great Basin. The vast majority of the range lies in the state of California, although the Carson Range spur lies primari ...
*
Ian Clough
Ian Clough (1937–1970) was a British mountaineer who was killed on the 1970 British Annapurna
expedition led by Sir Chris Bonington to climb the south face of the Himalayan massif. He was later described by Bonington as "the most modest man ...
(1939–1970) UK, first ascent
Am Buachaille
Am Buachaille is a sea stack, or vertical rock formation composed of Torridonian Sandstone, southwest of Sandwood Bay in the Scottish county of Sutherland. It lies at the tip of the Rubh' a Bhuachaille headland around north of Kinlochbervie.
...
(1968), first UK ascent
Eiger
The Eiger () is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends ...
north face (1962), died on
Annapurna
Annapurna (; ) is a mountain situated in the Annapurna mountain range of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. It is the 10th highest mountain in the world at above sea level and is well known for the difficulty and danger involved in its as ...
*
Norman Clyde
Norman Clyde (April 8, 1885 – December 23, 1972) was a mountaineer, mountain guide, freelance writer, nature photographer, and self-trained naturalist. He is well known for achieving over 130 first ascents, many in California's Sierra Nevada ...
(1886–1972) US, pioneer of California's
Sierra Nevada
The Sierra Nevada ( ) is a mountain range in the Western United States, between the Central Valley of California and the Great Basin. The vast majority of the range lies in the state of California, although the Carson Range spur lies primari ...
* Johann Coaz (1822–1918) Switzerland, first ascent of
Piz Bernina
Piz Bernina (Romansh language, Romansh, , ) is the highest mountain in the Eastern Alps, the highest point of the Bernina Range, and the highest peak in the Rhaetian Alps. It rises and is located south of Pontresina in the Bernina Region and ne ...
Ben Nevis
Ben Nevis ( ; , ) is the highest mountain in Scotland, the United Kingdom, and the British Isles. Ben Nevis stands at the western end of the Grampian Mountains in the Highland region of Lochaber, close to the town of Fort William.
The mount ...
Tower Ridge,
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
expedition (1895)
*
Emilio Comici
Leonardo Emilio Comici (21 February 1901 – 19 October 1940) was an Italian mountain climber and caver. He made numerous ascents in the Eastern Alps, particularly in the Dolomites (where he made over 200 first ascents during his career) and in th ...
(1901–1940) Italy, pioneer of
big wall climbing
Big wall climbing is a form of rock climbing that takes place on long and sheer multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch climbing routes, routes (of ''at least'' 6–10 pitches or 300–500 metres) that require a full day, if not several days, to ascen ...
and
aid climbing
Aid climbing is a form of rock climbing that uses mechanical devices and equipment, such as aiders (or ladders), for upward momentum. Aid climbing is contrasted with free climbing (in both its traditional or sport free climbing formats), whi ...
Achille Compagnoni
Achille Compagnoni (26 September 1914 – 13 May 2009) was an Italian mountaineer and skier. Together with Lino Lacedelli on 31 July 1954 he was in the first party to reach the summit of K2.
Biography
Compagnoni was born in Santa Caterina d ...
Lino Lacedelli
Lino Lacedelli (4 December 1925 – 20 November 2009) was an Italian mountaineer. Together with Achille Compagnoni, on 31 July 1954 he was the first to reach the summit of K2.
Early life
Lacedelli was born in Cortina d'Ampezzo. His climbing c ...
on the
1954 Italian Karakoram expedition to K2
On the 1954 Italian expedition to K2 (led by Ardito Desio), Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli became the first people to reach the summit of K2, , the second-highest mountain in the world. They reached the summit on 31 July 1954. K2 is mor ...
*
Kyra Condie
Kyra Condie (born June 5, 1996) is a rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and was one of four American rock climbers selected to represent Team USA at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo, Japan. She placed 11th in the Women's Co ...
(born 1996) US, member of the 2020 US Olympic climbing team
*
Herb and Jan Conn
Jan H. Conn (April 22, 1924 – May 13, 2023) and Herbert William Conn (April 16, 1920 – February 1, 2012) were climbing and caving pioneers. They are credited with establishing many classic climbs in areas like Carderock Recreation Area, ...
(Herb: 1921–2012) US, early pioneers of climbing and caving in Carderock,
Seneca Rocks
Seneca Rocks is a large cliff, crag and local landmark in Pendleton County, West Virginia, Pendleton County in the Eastern Panhandle of West Virginia, United States. The south peak is the only peak inaccessible except by technical rock climbing ...
, and the
Black Hills
The Black Hills is an isolated mountain range rising from the Great Plains of North America in western South Dakota and extending into Wyoming, United States. Black Elk Peak, which rises to , is the range's highest summit. The name of the range ...
*
William Martin Conway
William Martin Conway, 1st Baron Conway of Allington, (12 April 1856 – 19 April 1937), known between 1895 and 1931 as Sir Martin Conway, was an English art critic, politician, cartographer and mountaineer, who made expeditions in Europe as w ...
(1856–1937) UK, surveyor and explorer (Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Andes & Alps)
*
Kenton Cool
Kenton Edward Cool (born 30 July 1973, ) is an English climber and mountain guide. He is one of Britain's leading alpine and high altitude climbers. He has reached the summit of Mount Everest 19 times—the most of any non-Nepali. His ascents ...
(born 1973) UK, several
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s (
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
over seventeen times); ski descents of
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
and
Manaslu
Manaslu (; , also known as Kutang) is the List of highest mountains#List, eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the ...
*
W. A. B. Coolidge
William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge (; August 28, 1850 – May 8, 1926) was an American historian, theologian and mountaineer.
Early life and education
William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge was born in New York City in 1850 as the son of Frederi ...
(1850–1926) US, over 1,700 expeditions in the Alps with numerous first ascents, Alpine historian
* Janne Corax (born 1967) Sweden, cycled across the Tibetan plateau and claimed several first ascents of Tibetan mountains
*
Henri Cordier
Henri Cordier (8 August 184916 March 1925) was a French linguist, historian, ethnographer, author, editor and Orientalist. He was President of the Société de Géographie ( French, "Geographical Society") in Paris.Aiguille du Plat de la Selle
The Aiguille du Plat de la Selle, 3,596 m, is a mountain of the Massif des Écrins in the Dauphiné Alps in south-eastern France. Ascents of the mountain are via Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans or the Soreiller hut.
References
See also
* ...
,
Les Droites
Les Droites () is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps and is the lowest of the 4000-metre peaks in the Alps. The mountain has two summits:
* West summit (3,984 m), first ascent by W. A. B. Coolidge, Christian Almer and Ulri ...
(east summit) (1876)
* Patrick Cordier (1947–1996) France, first and solo ascents in the Alps; French Direct
Troll Wall
The or is part of the mountain massif Trolltindene () in the Romsdalen valley in Rauma Municipality in Møre og Romsdal county, Norway. It is located to the south of the towns of Åndalsnes and Molde inside the Reinheimen National Park.
Th ...
(1967) and '' The Nose'' solo (1973)
* Jean Couzy (1923–1958) France, first ascent of
Makalu
Makalu (; ) is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, with a summit at an elevation of AMSL. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas southeast of Mount Everest, on the China–Nepal border. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolat ...
1955 French Makalu expedition
The 1955 French Makalu expedition was the first to successfully climb Makalu, the Himalayan mountain to the southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet. At Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world and an eight-t ...
* Lucy Creamer (born 1971) UK, early British female
competition climber
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing
Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly ...
, and alpine and ice climber.
* Peter Croft (born 1958) Canada,
free soloing
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs solo (or alone) without ropes or other protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their climbing chalk. Free soloing ...
pioneer (''Astroman'', ''Rostrum''); many first ascents in the Sierra Nevada
*
Aleister Crowley
Aleister Crowley ( ; born Edward Alexander Crowley; 12 October 1875 – 1 December 1947) was an English occultist, ceremonial magician, poet, novelist, mountaineer, and painter. He founded the religion of Thelema, identifying himself as the pr ...
(1875–1947) UK, occultist, writer, and rock climber, led early expeditions on K2 and on
Kanchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
*
Michel Croz
Michel Auguste Croz (22 April 1830 in Le Tour, Chamonix valley – 14 July 1865, on the Matterhorn) was a Chamoniard mountain guide of the Kingdom of Sardinia and the first ascentionist of many mountains in the western Alps during the golden ag ...
(1830–1865) France, mountain guide with numerous first ascents, died on the first ascent of the
Matterhorn
The , ; ; ; or ; ; . is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the Main chain of the Alps, main watershed and border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, ...
climbing technique
Climbing technique refers to a broad range of physical movements used in the activity or sport of climbing.
Notable sub-groups of climbing technique include:
*Aid climbing technique as is used in aid climbing
*Big wall climbing technique as is ...
s in
ice climbing
Ice climbing is a climbing discipline that involves ascending routes consisting entirely of frozen water. To ascend, the ice climber uses specialist equipment, particularly double ice axes (or the more modern ice tools) and rigid crampons. ...
*
Bronisław Czech
Bronisław "Bronek" Czech (; 25 July 1908 – 4 June 1944) was a Polish sportsman and artist. A gifted skier, he won championships of Poland 24 times in various skiing disciplines, including Alpine skiing, Nordic skiing and ski jumping. A m ...
(1908–1944) Poland, a mountain rescue pioneer in the Tatra Mountains
*
Anna Czerwińska
Anna Czerwińska (10 July 1949 – 31 January 2023) was a Polish climber. She is known for being the then-oldest woman to summit Mount Everest, doing so at the age of 50. She also published several books about mountaineering.
Climbing career
Cze ...
(born 1949) Poland, first woman over age 50 to ascend
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
, first Polish female to climb
Seven Summits
The Seven Summits are the highest mountains on each of the seven traditional continents. On 30 April 1985, Richard Bass became the first climber to reach the summit of all seven.
In January 2023, ''Climbing (magazine), Climbing'' said "Today, t ...
*
Andrzej Czok
Andrzej Czok (11 November 1948 – 11 January 1986) was a Polish mountaineer best known for making the first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri on 21 January 1985 with Jerzy Kukuczka, and for the first ascent of the South Pillar route on Mount Everest ...
(1948–1986) Poland, first winter ascent of
Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition.
Annapur ...
, and first ascent of
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
via the South Pillar
D
*
Kalpana Dash
Kalpana Dash (; 7 July 1966 – 23 May 2019) was an Indian mountaineer and the first Odia climber to scale Mount Everest. She scaled Mount Everest on 21 May 2008, along with a team of five members from the United States, Canada and Nepal.
She h ...
(born 1966) India, first from
Odisha
Odisha (), formerly Orissa (List of renamed places in India, the official name until 2011), is a States and union territories of India, state located in East India, Eastern India. It is the List of states and union territories of India by ar ...
, India to climb
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
(2008)
* Sophia Danenberg (born 1972) US, first African American and first black woman to ascend
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
(2006)
*
Steph Davis
Stephanie "Steph" Davis (born November 4, 1973) is an American rock climber, BASE jumper, and wingsuit flyer. She is one of the world's leading climbers, having completed some of the hardest routes in the world. She has free soloed up to , an ...
(born 1973) US, second female one-day free climb
El Capitan
El Capitan (; ) is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granite monolith is about from base to summit alo ...
and first female to free climb the
Salathé Wall
The ''Salathé Wall'' is one of the original big wall climbing routes up El Capitan, a high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park. The ''Salathé Wall'' was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbing in Y ...
(2005)
*
Johnny Dawes
Johnny Dawes (born 9 May 1964) is a British rock climber and author, known for his dynamic climbing style and bold traditional climbing routes. This included the first ascent of '' Indian Face'', the first-ever route at the E9-grade. His influe ...
Indian Face
''Indian Face'' is a traditional climbing route on the rhyolite "Great Wall" of the East Buttress of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, in Wales. When English climber Johnny Dawes completed the first free ascent of the route on 4 October 1986, it was grade ...
Gaia
In Greek mythology, Gaia (; , a poetic form of ('), meaning 'land' or 'earth'),, , . also spelled Gaea (), is the personification of Earth. Gaia is the ancestral mother—sometimes parthenogenic—of all life. She is the mother of Uranus (S ...
'', 1985)
traditional climbing
Traditional climbing (or trad climbing) is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber places removable protection while simultaneously ascending the route; when the lead climber has completed the route, the second climber ...
routes
*
José Antonio Delgado
José Antonio Delgado Sucre (13 May 1965 – 22 July 2006) was the first Venezuelan mountaineer to reach the summit of five eight-thousanders and one of the most experienced climbers in Latin America. Known as ''el indio'' ("The Indian", for his ...
(1965–2006) Venezuela, five
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s (1994–2006), died on
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
*
Clinton Thomas Dent
Clinton Thomas Dent FRCS (7 December 1850 – 26 August 1912) was an English surgeon, author and mountaineer.
Early life
The fourth surviving son of Thomas Dent, he was educated at Eton College and Trinity College, Cambridge.
Alpinism
Alongsi ...
Aiguille du Dru
The Aiguille du Dru (also the Dru or the Drus; French, Les Drus) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps. It is situated to the east of the village of Les Praz in the Chamonix valley. "Aiguille" means "needle" in French.
The ...
(1878); expeditions to the
Caucasus
The Caucasus () or Caucasia (), is a region spanning Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It is situated between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, comprising parts of Southern Russia, Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan. The Caucasus Mountains, i ...
* Ardito Desio (1897–2001) Italy, geologist and leader of successful
1954 Italian Karakoram expedition to K2
On the 1954 Italian expedition to K2 (led by Ardito Desio), Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli became the first people to reach the summit of K2, , the second-highest mountain in the world. They reached the summit on 31 July 1954. K2 is mor ...
*
Catherine Destivelle
Catherine Destivelle (born 24 July 1960) is a French rock climbing, rock climber and Mountaineering, mountaineer who is considered one of the greatest and most important female climbers in the history of rock climbing, history of the sport. She c ...
(born 1960) France,
first
First most commonly refers to:
* First, the ordinal form of the number 1
First or 1st may also refer to:
Acronyms
* Faint Images of the Radio Sky at Twenty-Centimeters, an astronomical survey carried out by the Very Large Array
* Far Infrared a ...
female to climb , first female to winter solo of the " north face trilogy"
*
Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger (born 16 March 1932) is an Austrian mountaineer and author of several books. He is the only living person who has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres: of Broad Peak in 1957 and of Dhaulagiri in 1960. In 2013, ...
(born 1932) Austria, first ascent of
Broad Peak
Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
(1957) and
Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition.
Annapur ...
(1960), climbed K2 (
1986 K2 disaster
The 1986 K2 disaster refers to a period from 6 August to 10 August 1986, when five mountaineers died on the eight-thousander K2, in the Karakoram during a severe storm. Eight other climbers were killed in the weeks preceding, bringing the total n ...
)
*
Sasha DiGiulian
Sasha DiGiulian (born October 23, 1992) is an American professional rock climber who specializes in outdoor sport and big wall climbing with a background in competition climbing and bouldering. She won the gold medal at the 2011 International F ...
(born 1992) US, the first female to free climb ''Magic Mushroom'' on the
Eiger
The Eiger () is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends ...
north face
*
Jan Długosz
Jan Długosz (; 1 December 1415 – 19 May 1480), also known in Latin as Johannes Longinus, was a Polish priest, chronicler, diplomat, soldier, and secretary to Bishop Zbigniew Oleśnicki of Kraków. He is considered Poland's first histo ...
(1929–1962) Poland, numerous alpine ascents in the Tatras and Alps; first ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney
* Sarah Doherty (1959–2023) US, the first amputee to reach the summit of
Denali
Denali (), federally designated as Mount McKinley, is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the tallest mountain in the world from base to peak on land, measuring . On p. 20 of Helm ...
without a
prosthetic limb
In medicine, a prosthesis (: prostheses; from ), or a prosthetic implant, is an artificial device that replaces a missing body part, which may be lost through physical trauma, disease, or a condition present at birth (congenital disorder). Prosthe ...
*
Jim Donini
James "Jim" Donini (born July 23, 1943) is an American rock climber and alpinist, noted for a long history of cutting-edge climbs in Alaska and Patagonia. He was president of the American Alpine Club from 2006 to 2009, and a 1999 recipient of the ...
(born 1943) US, first ascent of
Torre Egger
Torre Egger is one of the peaks in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America, located between Argentina and Chile,From Rodrigo Jordan, "Cerro Torre", in ''World Mountaineering'', Audrey Salkeld, editor, Bulfinch Press, , p. 156: Cerro Tor ...
(1976), president of the
American Alpine Club
The American Alpine Club (AAC) is a non-profit member organization with more than 26,000 members. The club is housed in the American Mountaineering Center (AMC) in Golden, Colorado.
Through its members, the AAC advocates for American climbers d ...
(2006–2009)
*
Hans Christian Doseth
Hans Christian Doseth (December 10, 1958 in Romsdal, Norway – August 6, 1984 in Pakistan) was a Norwegian mountaineer. Stein P. Aasheim, Fabio Palma ''Senza ritorno. Hans Christian Doseth'', Italian, Alpine Studio, June 2010,
Achievements
Am ...
(1958–1984) Norway, first ascent of the East Face of
Great Trango Tower
__NOTOC__
The Trango Towers () are a family of rock towers situated in the Gilgit-Baltistan region, in the northern part of Pakistan. The Towers have some of the world's largest cliffs and offer some of the most challenging big wall climbing oppo ...
(1984), died during the descent
*
Lord Francis Douglas
Lord Francis William Bouverie Douglas (8 February 1847 – 14 July 1865) was a novice British mountaineering, mountaineer. After sharing in the first ascent of the Matterhorn, he died in a fall on the way down from the summit.
Early life
Born ...
(1847–1865) Scotland, died on the descent after the first ascent of the
Matterhorn
The , ; ; ; or ; ; . is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the Main chain of the Alps, main watershed and border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, ...
(1965)
*
Lonnie Dupre
Lonnie Dupre (born 17 April 1961) is an American Arctic explorer whose achievements include the first Pacific to Atlantic winter traversal of the Northwest Passage by dog sled in 1991 and the first and only human-powered circumnavigation of Green ...
(born 1961) US, Arctic explorer, made a rare solo winter ascent of
Denali
Denali (), federally designated as Mount McKinley, is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the tallest mountain in the world from base to peak on land, measuring . On p. 20 of Helm ...
* Hans Dülfer (1892–1915) Germany, pioneer free climber, inventor of the
Dülfersitz
The Dülfersitz (named after mountaineer Hans Dülfer who had developed a different but related technique), also known as body rappel, is a classical, or non-mechanical abseiling technique, used in rock climbing and mountaineering. It is not us ...
abseil technique; killed in World War I
*
Hayatullah Khan Durrani
Hayatullah Khan Durrani, PP (Pashto language, Pashto: ; born 22 April 1962) is a Pakistani people, Pakistani caving, caver, mountaineering, mountaineer, environmentalist, organizer, and a rescuer. He is also a part-time sports anchor actor on ...
(born 1962) Pakistan, mountaineer, and rock climber
*
Günther Dyhrenfurth Günther, Guenther, Ginther, Gunther, and the variants Günter, Guenter, Guenther, Ginter, and Gunter, are Germanic names derived from ''Gunthere, Gunthari'', composed of '' *gunþiz'' "battle" (Old Norse '' gunnr'') and ''heri, hari'' "army". Gu ...
(1886–1975) German/Swiss, Himalayan explorer, led German expeditions to
Kanchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
(1930, 1931)
E
*
James Eccles
James Eccles FGS (1838 – 6 June 1915) was an English mountaineer and geologist who is noted for making a number of first ascents in the Alps during the silver age of alpinism.
Life
Eccles was born in Blackburn in 1838, the eldest son of E ...
Oscar Eckenstein
Oscar Johannes Ludwig Eckenstein (9 September 1859 – 8 April 1921) was an English rock climber and mountaineer, and a pioneer in the sport of bouldering. Inventor of the modern crampon, he was an innovator in climbing technique and mountai ...
(1859–1921) UK, alpinist, rock climber, and pioneer of
bouldering
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
; inventor of modern
crampon
A crampon is a traction device attached to footwear to improve mobility on snow and ice during ice climbing. Besides ice climbing, crampons are also used for secure travel on snow and ice, such as crossing glaciers, snowfields and icefields, as ...
*
Patrick Edlinger
Patrick Edlinger (15 June 1960 – 16 November 2012) was a professional French rock climber. Edlinger is considered a pioneer and a legend of sport climbing. He was the second-ever climber in history to ascend routes of grade with ''Nymphodal ...
(1960–2012) France,
first
First most commonly refers to:
* First, the ordinal form of the number 1
First or 1st may also refer to:
Acronyms
* Faint Images of the Radio Sky at Twenty-Centimeters, an astronomical survey carried out by the Very Large Array
* Far Infrared a ...
person to
onsight
Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook:
The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; ...
free soloist
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs solo (or alone) without ropes or other protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their climbing chalk. Free soloing ...
*
Angela Eiter
Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006) ...
(born 1986) Austria,
first
First most commonly refers to:
* First, the ordinal form of the number 1
First or 1st may also refer to:
Acronyms
* Faint Images of the Radio Sky at Twenty-Centimeters, an astronomical survey carried out by the Very Large Array
* Far Infrared a ...
female to redpoint – and to make an FFA – at ; successful
competition climber
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing
Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly ...
* Albert R. Ellingwood (22 June 1887 – 12 May 1934) pioneer of climbing peaks in the Rocky Mountains and Colorado in particular
*
Zsolt Erőss
Zsolt Erőss (March 7, 1968 – May 21, 2013) was the most successful Hungary, Hungarian high-altitude mountaineer, summiting 10 of the 14 eight-thousanders. He was also the first Hungarian citizen to have climbed Mount Everest.
In 2010, he los ...
(1968–2013) Hungary, ten
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s, two with a prosthetic leg, died on descent from
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
Seven Summits
The Seven Summits are the highest mountains on each of the seven traditional continents. On 30 April 1985, Richard Bass became the first climber to reach the summit of all seven.
In January 2023, ''Climbing (magazine), Climbing'' said "Today, t ...
* Leila Esfandyari (1970–2011) Iran, first Iranian woman to climb
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
; died on
Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II (; ; ); surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan and ...
*
Jens Esmark
Jens Esmark (31 January 1763 – 26 January 1839) was a Danish-Norwegian professor of mineralogy who contributed to many of the initial discoveries and conceptual analyses of glaciers, specifically the concept that glaciers had covered larger ...
(1763–1839) Norway, first ascent
Snøhetta
Snøhetta is the highest mountain in the Dovrefjell mountain range in Norway. At , it is the highest mountain in Norway outside the Jotunheimen range, making it the 24th highest peak in Norway, based on a topographic prominence cutoff. At , i ...
(1798) and
Gaustatoppen
Gaustatoppen is a mountain in the county of Telemark, Norway. The tall mountain is located on the south side of the town of Rjukan and is the highest mountain in Telemark. The summit lies in Tinn Municipality, but there is a lower plateau that c ...
, led first expedition to
Bitihorn
Bitihorn () is a mountain on the border of Vang Municipality and Øystre Slidre Municipality in Innlandet county, Norway. The tall mountain is located in the Jotunheimen mountains about northwest of the village of Beitostølen. The mountain is ...
*
Nick Estcourt
Nicholas John Estcourt (1942 – 12 June 1978) was a British mountaineer and alpinist who was killed in an avalanche on the West Ridge of K2.
Early life and education
Estcourt spent his childhood on the south coast of England, in Eastbourne a ...
avalanche
An avalanche is a rapid flow of snow down a Grade (slope), slope, such as a hill or mountain. Avalanches can be triggered spontaneously, by factors such as increased precipitation or snowpack weakening, or by external means such as humans, othe ...
on the
1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition
The 1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition was a Himalayan climb that was the first to take a deliberately difficult route up the face of an Eight-thousander, 8,000-metre mountain. At the time that the expedition set out, in March 1970, th ...
* Charles Evans (mountaineer), Charles Evans (1918–1995) UK, deputy leader of 1953 British Mount Everest expedition, and leader of 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition
* John Ewbank (climber), John Ewbank (1948–2013) Australia, pioneer of Australian rock climbing, invented Grade (climbing)#Ewbank, Ewbank grading system
F
* Freda du Faur (1882–1935) Australia, first female ascent of Aoraki / Mount Cook
* Ron Fawcett (born 1955) UK, pioneer professional rock climber, first ascent of ''Master's Edge'' Grade (climbing)#British, E7 6c
* Sue Fear (1963–2006) Australia, five
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s, killed in crevasse fall on
Manaslu
Manaslu (; , also known as Kutang) is the List of highest mountains#List, eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the ...
* Rudolf Fehrmann (1886–1947) Germany, pioneer rock climber in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains
* Darby Field (1610–1649) UK, first European to climb Mount Washington (New Hampshire) (1642)
* George Finch (chemist), George Ingle Finch (1888–1970) Australia, reached 8,300 m on 1922 British Mount Everest expedition, 1922 British Everest expedition; north face of Dent d'Hérens
* Hazel Findlay (born 1989) UK, first British female to ascend a
traditional climbing
Traditional climbing (or trad climbing) is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber places removable protection while simultaneously ascending the route; when the lead climber has completed the route, the second climber ...
route at Grade (climbing)#British, grade E9
* Scott Fischer (1955–1996) US, ascents of Lhotse (1990), K2 (1992),
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
(1994); died in 1996 Mount Everest disaster
* Hans Florine (born 1964) US, won first 1991 UIAA Climbing World Championships, world speed championships in 1991, set a speed record on '' The Nose'' of 2:36:45 (2012)
* James David Forbes (1809–1868) UK, first British ascent of the Jungfrau
* Charlie Fowler (1954–2006) US,
free soloist
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs solo (or alone) without ropes or other protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their climbing chalk. Free soloing ...
and high-altitude mountaineer
* Mick Fowler (born 1956) UK, leading traditional climber, ice climber and
alpinist
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpi ...
; winner of three Piolet d'Ors (2003, 2013, 2016)
* Douglas Freshfield (1845–1934) UK, ascents in the Alps, Scotland, Himalayas, and Pyrenees; president of
Alpine Club
Alpine clubs are typically large social clubs that revolve around climbing, hiking, and other outdoor activities. Many alpine clubs also take on aspects typically reserved for local sport associations, providing education and training courses, se ...
* Tom Frost US, first ascents of big wall climbing, big wall routes on
El Capitan
El Capitan (; ) is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granite monolith is about from base to summit alo ...
including ''
Salathé Wall
The ''Salathé Wall'' is one of the original big wall climbing routes up El Capitan, a high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park. The ''Salathé Wall'' was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbing in Y ...
'' (1961) and ''North American Wall'' (1964)
* Fritiof Fryxell (1900–1986) US, geologist, and park ranger, first ascents in the Teton Range
* Wang Fuzhou (1935–2015) China, first ascent of the north face of
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
, first ascent of Shishapangma
G
* Patrick Gabarrou (born 1951) France, first ascents of extreme alpine climbing, alpine routes in Mont Blanc massif (''Hypercouloir'', ''Supercouloir'')
* Will Gadd (born 1967) Canada, pioneer mixed climbing, mixed climber (Mixed climbing#Evolution of grade milestones, first M9 and M12), and pioneer of Ice climbing#Helmcken routes, Helmcken extreme ice routes
* Ryszard Gajewski (born 1954) Poland, Eight-thousander#List of first ascents, first winter ascent of
Manaslu
Manaslu (; , also known as Kutang) is the List of highest mountains#List, eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the ...
* Lene Gammelgaard Denmark, part of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster; first Scandinavian female ascent of
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
* João Garcia (born 1967) Portugal, Eight-thousander#List of climbers of all 14, 10th person to climb all 14
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s without oxygen (1993–2010)
* Rolando Garibotti (born 1971) Argentina/US, first ascents on Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre including the ''Torre Traverse'' (2008)
* Janja Garnbret (born 1999) Slovenia, the Ranking of career IFSC victories by climber, most successful competition climbing, competition climber in history; List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by women, first female to
onsight
Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook:
The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; ...
La Meije
La Meije is a mountain in the Massif des Écrins range, located at the border of the Hautes-Alpes and Isère '' départements''. It overlooks the nearby village of La Grave, a mountaineering centre and ski resort, well known for its off-pis ...
with his son and
Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau
Jules Henri Emmanuel Boileau, baron de Castelnau (; 1857-1923) was a French people, French alpinist and sportsman who took part in the first ascent of the Meije. After his career as an alpinist he competed as an amateur cyclist.
Biography
Boil ...
* Chanda Gayen (1979–2014) India, the first woman from West Bengal to climb
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
; killed on
Kanchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
* Lakpa Gelu (born 1967) Nepal, mountain guide who summitted
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
over 12 times; set one-day speed records on Everest
* Lester Germer (1896–1971) US, physicist, World War I fighter plane, fighter pilot and prominent rock climber in the Shawangunk Ridge, Gunks
* Conrad Gessner (1516–1565) Switzerland, natural history, naturalist and early mountaineer in the Alps
* Azim Gheychisaz (born 1981) Iran, Eight-thousander#List of climbers of all 14, 18th person to climb all 14
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s without oxygen (2008–2017)
* John Gill (climber), John Gill (born 1937) US, "father" of modern bouldering, and List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Solved by men, first to climb and ; introduced Chalk (climbing), chalk to climbing
* Stefan Glowacz (born 1965) Germany, List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men, second-ever
onsight
Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook:
The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; ...
at , and List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Multi-pitch routes, second-ever multi-pitch ascent
* Alessandro Gogna (born 1946) Italy, several first winter (and solo) ascents of major Alpine north faces
* Dan Goodwin (born 1955) US, known for buildering (World Trade Center (1973–2001), World Trade Center, Sears Tower, John Hancock Center and CN Tower)
* Alec and Peter Graham, New Zealand mountaineers, mountain guides and hotel operators
* Dave Graham (climber), Dave Graham (born 1981) US, leading boulderer of his generation, first ascent of ''The Story of Two Worlds''
* Tormod Granheim (born 1974) Norway, first ski mountaineering descent the north face of
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
(2006)
* Chloé Graftiaux (1987–2010) Belgium, rock climber (sport and bouldering) and
alpinist
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpi ...
; bronze in 2010 IFSC Climbing World Cup, 2010 World Cup for bouldering
* William Spotswood Green (1847–1919) New Zealand, ascents in the Selkirks, and Mount Green is named in his honor
* Paul Grohmann (1838–1908) Austria, numerous first ascents in the Eastern Alps in the 19th century
* Michael Groom (climber), Michael Groom (born 1959) Australia, ascents of Lhotse,
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
without bottled oxygen
* Bear Grylls (born 1974) in 1998, youngest Briton to summit
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
(age 23)
* Wolfgang Güllich (1960–1992) Germany, List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men, first to redpoint grade , , , and ; List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Free-solo by men, first to free solo at (and to free solo ''Separate Reality (climb), Separate Reality''); co-inventor of the campus board
* Paul Güssfeldt (1840–1920) Germany, first ascent Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, Peuterey ridge and Piz Scerscen, first European attempt on
Aconcagua
Aconcagua () is a mountain in the Principal Cordillera of the Andes mountain range, in Mendoza Province, Argentina. It is the highest mountain in the Americas, the highest outside Asia, and the highest in both the Western Hemisphere and the ...
(1883)
* Veikka Gustafsson (born 1968) Finland, Eight-thousander#List of climbers of all 14, 9th person to climb all 14
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s without oxygen (1993–2009)
H
* Peter Habeler (born 1942) Austria, first ascent without supplementary oxygen Everest (1978) with Reinhold Messner
* Douglas Robert Hadow (1846–1865) UK, died on first ascent
Matterhorn
The , ; ; ; or ; ; . is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the Main chain of the Alps, main watershed and border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, ...
(1865)
* Dave Hahn (born 1961) US, 11 Everest ascents, 26 Vinson Massif ascents, 19
Denali
Denali (), federally designated as Mount McKinley, is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the tallest mountain in the world from base to peak on land, measuring . On p. 20 of Helm ...
ascents
*Christoph Hainz (born 1962), South Tyrol, Italy, allrounder mountaineer, 40 first ascents
* Artur Hajzer (1962–2013) Poland, first winter ascent of
Annapurna
Annapurna (; ) is a mountain situated in the Annapurna mountain range of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. It is the 10th highest mountain in the world at above sea level and is well known for the difficulty and danger involved in its as ...
with Jerzy Kukuczka (1987)
* Colin Haley (born 1984) US, traverses and speed solo ascents in Patagonia and the Alaska Range
* Lincoln Hall (climber), Lincoln Hall (1956–2012) Australia, rescued at 8,700m on descent from Everest (2006)
* Rob Hall (1960–1996) New Zealand, Seven Summits in seven months, died in 1996 Mount Everest disaster
* Peter Harding (climber), Peter Harding (1924–2007) UK, leading British
traditional climbing
Traditional climbing (or trad climbing) is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber places removable protection while simultaneously ascending the route; when the lead climber has completed the route, the second climber ...
pioneer of the 1940s
* Warren J. Harding (1924–2002) US, first ascents of big wall climbing, big wall
aid climbing
Aid climbing is a form of rock climbing that uses mechanical devices and equipment, such as aiders (or ladders), for upward momentum. Aid climbing is contrasted with free climbing (in both its traditional or sport free climbing formats), whi ...
routes on
El Capitan
El Capitan (; ) is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granite monolith is about from base to summit alo ...
, first ascent '' The Nose'' (1958)
* Alison Hargreaves (1963–1995) UK, first solo of the Great north faces of the Alps, 6 great north faces in one season; first female solo of Everest (1995)
* John Harlin (1934–1966) US, leading American
alpinist
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpi ...
of the 1960s, killed creating the ''Harlin Route'' on the
Eiger
The Eiger () is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends ...
north face
*
Heinrich Harrer
Heinrich Harrer (; 6 July 1912 – 7 January 2006) was an Austrian mountaineer, explorer, writer, sportsman, geographer, and briefly SS sergeant. He was a member of the four-man climbing team that made the first ascent of the North Face of the ...
(1912–2006) Austria, first ascent of the
Eiger
The Eiger () is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends ...
north face (1938), and the Carstensz Pyramid (1962), author of ''The White Spider'' (1959) and ''
Seven Years in Tibet
''Seven Years in Tibet: My Life Before, During and After'' (1952; (''Seven years in Tibet. My life at the court of the Dalai Lama''); 1954 in English) is an autobiographical travel book written by Austrian mountaineer and Nazi SS sergeant Heinr ...
'' (1952)
* Brette Harrington (born 1992) US, first free solo of big wall route, ''Chiaro di Luna'', in Patagonia; partner of Marc-André Leclerc
* Ginette Harrison (1958–1999) UK, Seven Summits, first female ascent
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
(1998), killed on
Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition.
Annapur ...
* Dougal Haston (1940–1977) Scotland, first ascent 1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition, Annapurna south face (1970), killed in avalanche near Leysin
* Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed (1860–1934) UK, pioneer of mountaineering, mountain photographer, author
* Margo Hayes (born 1998) US, first female to climb ; first female to complete the "9a+ trilogy"
* Andreas Heckmair (1906–2005) Germany, first ascent of the
Eiger
The Eiger () is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends ...
north face (known as the ''1938 Heckmair Route'')
* Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich (1937–1989) Poland, several first ascents of new routes (and some in winter) on
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s
* Gary Hemming (1934–1969) US, first ascent south face Aiguille du Fou
* Siegfried Herford (1891–1916) UK, first ascent Scafell Central Buttress (1914)
* Derek Hersey (1956–1993) UK, prominent
free soloist
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs solo (or alone) without ropes or other protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their climbing chalk. Free soloing ...
in Britain and America; died unroped on the ''Steck-Salathé Route''
* Maurice Herzog (1919–2012) France, leader of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition, and Eight-thousander#List of all 14, first ascent of
Annapurna
Annapurna (; ) is a mountain situated in the Annapurna mountain range of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. It is the 10th highest mountain in the world at above sea level and is well known for the difficulty and danger involved in its as ...
(1950)
* Tom Higgins (rock climber), Tom Higgins (1944–2018) US, first and first free ascents in US, also in France outside Chamonix
* Lynn Hill (born 1961) US, first free ascent The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, Yosemite (1993)
* Sandy Hill (mountaineer), Sandy Hill (born 1955) US, ascended
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
during the 1996 Mount Everest disaster; completed the
Seven Summits
The Seven Summits are the highest mountains on each of the seven traditional continents. On 30 April 1985, Richard Bass became the first climber to reach the summit of all seven.
In January 2023, ''Climbing (magazine), Climbing'' said "Today, t ...
* Edmund Hillary (1919–2008) New Zealand, Eight-thousander#List of first ascents, first ascent of
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
with Tenzing Norgay, Norgay on the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition
* Alan Hinkes OBE (born 1954) UK, first Briton to climb all 14
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s but his claim was Eight-thousander#Disputed ascents, disputed regarding
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
* Andreas Hinterstoisser (1914–1936) Germany, killed in the 1936 Eiger climbing disaster, first to climb the ''Hinterstoisser Traverse''
* Yuji Hirayama (born 1969) Japan, IFSC Climbing World Cup, World Cup winner in lead (1998, 2000), List of first ascents (sport climbing)#Onsighted / Flashed by men, first to
onsight
Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook:
The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; ...
at , and The Nose (El Capitan)#Speed climbing, speed records on '' The Nose''
* Grace Hoeman (1921–1971) US, led first all-female expedition to Denali, 1970
* Marty Hoey (1951–1982) US, mountain guide and ski patroller, died on
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
attempting to become the first US woman to ascend it
* Charles F. Hoffmann (1838–1913) US, surveyor and mountaineer, several first ascents in
Sierra Nevada
The Sierra Nevada ( ) is a mountain range in the Western United States, between the Central Valley of California and the Great Basin. The vast majority of the range lies in the state of California, although the Carson Range spur lies primari ...
* Jim Holloway (climber), Jim Holloway (born 1954) US, bouldering pioneer, and List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Solved by men, first to ascend a boulder at the grade of with ''Trice''.
* Alex Honnold (born 1985) US, prolific
free soloist
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs solo (or alone) without ropes or other protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their climbing chalk. Free soloing ...
* Tom Hornbein (born 1930) US, 1963 American Mount Everest expedition, first ascent of Everest via the West Ridge (1963)
* Steve House (climber), Steve House (born 1970) US, solo ascent K7 (mountain), K7 (2004), first ascent of Rupal Face of
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
(2005)
* Charles Snead Houston, Charles Houston (1913–2009) US, first ascent Mount Foraker (1934), leader of US American to K2 in 1950s
* Alexander Huber (born 1968) Germany, first ascents of hardest rock climbing grades
* Thomas Huber (born 1966) Germany, big wall ascents in
Yosemite
Yosemite National Park ( ) is a national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service ...
and Pakistan
* Charles Hudson (climber), Charles Hudson (1828–1865) UK, first ascents of Monte Rosa (1855) and the
Matterhorn
The , ; ; ; or ; ; . is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the Main chain of the Alps, main watershed and border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, ...
(1865)
* Tomaž Humar (1969–2009) Slovenia, solo ascent of
Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition.
Annapur ...
south wall (1999), northwest face of
Ama Dablam
Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Eastern Himalayas range of Koshi Province, Nepal. The main peak is , the lower western peak is . Ama Dablam means "mother's necklace"; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (''ama'') protecting he ...
(1996)
* Alexander von Humboldt (1769–1859) Germany, set a European altitude record on Chimborazo (volcano), Chimborazo (1802)
* John Hunt, Baron Hunt of Llanfair Waterdine, John Hunt (1910–1998) UK, leader of successful 1953 British Mount Everest expedition
* Mala Honnatti, Indian mountain climber.
I
* Marcel Ichac (1906–1994) France, filmed the first French expedition to the Karakoram (1936), and the successful 1950 French Annapurna expedition
* Dimitar Ilievski (1953–1989) Macedonia, the first Macedonian to climb
Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
, died on the descent
* Ulrich Inderbinen (1900–2004) Switzerland, mountain guide with 371 ascents of the
Matterhorn
The , ; ; ; or ; ; . is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the Main chain of the Alps, main watershed and border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, ...
, the last at 90 years old
* Alberto Iñurrategi (born 1968) Basque, Spain, Eight-thousander#List of climbers of all 14, 10th person to climb all 14
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
s (and Eight-thousander#List of climbers of all 14, 4th person to do so without oxygen)
* Andrew Irvine (mountaineer), Andrew Irvine (1902–1924) UK, died on the 1924 British Mount Everest expedition, 1924 British Everest expedition with George Mallory; unlike Mallory, his body has not been found
* Robert Lock Graham Irving, R. L. G. Irving (1877–1969) UK, early
alpinist
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpi ...
and climbing author; introduced George Mallory to climbing
J
* John Angelo Jackson, John Jackson (1921–2005) UK, member of the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition; head of Britain's Plas y Brenin centre
* Margaret Jackson (climber), Margaret Jackson (1843–1906) UK, pioneer female mountaineer in the Alps
* Nicolas Jaeger (1946–1980) France, first French ascent of Mount Everest, and one of the List of ski descents of eight-thousanders, first ski descents of an
eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...
* Ray Jardine (born 1944) US, List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men, first to redpoint at ; inventor of spring-loaded camming devices (or "friends")
* Narendra Dhar Jayal (1927–1958) India, founder and first director of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
* Ganesh Jena (born 1972) India, first male from the Indian state of
Odisha
Odisha (), formerly Orissa (List of renamed places in India, the official name until 2011), is a States and union territories of India, state located in East India, Eastern India. It is the List of states and union territories of India by ar ...
to climb
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
* Jimmy Jewell (climber), Jimmy Jewell (1953–1987) UK, prolific
free soloist
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs solo (or alone) without ropes or other protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their climbing chalk. Free soloing ...
of the 1970s and 1980s in Britain; died free soloing
* Konstanty Jodko-Narkiewicz (1901–1963) Polish, mountaineer who led the first 1st Polish Andean Expedition, 1933–34 Polish Andean Expedition
* Alex Johnson (climber), Alex Johnson (born 1989) US, five-time American national bouldering champion and two-time Bouldering World Cup stage winner
* Raghav Joneja (born 1997) India, youngest Indian to climb Mount Everest
* Chris Jones (mountain climber), Chris Jones (1939–2024) UK–US, first ascent of north face of North Twin Peak and other routes in Rockies and Andes
* Kevin Jorgeson (born 1984) US, first free climb of the Dawn Wall of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, US
K
* Conrad Kain (1883–1934) Austria/Canada, over 50 first ascents in the Canadian Rockies including Mount Robson
* Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1970) Austria, the first woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen
* Bob Kamps (1931–2005) US, pioneer of the golden age of Yosemite climbing and Grade (climbing), 5.10 and 5.11 routes in America
* Harish Kapadia (born 1945) India, Himalayan veteran
* Meherban Karim (1979–2008) Pakistan, Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat, and K2 (all three without supplementary oxygen), died on descent of K2
* Silvo Karo (born 1960) Slovenia, 300+ first ascents, lifetime achievement Piolets d'Or, Piolet d'Or awardee
* Fritz Kasparek (1910–1954) Austria, first ascent of Eiger north face
* Peter Kaufmann (Alpine guide), Peter Kaufmann (1858–1924) Switzerland, guide in Alps and Canadian Rockies
* Ron Kauk (born 1957) US, rock climber, many
first ascent
In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in climbing guidebook, guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers a ...
s in
Yosemite
Yosemite National Park ( ) is a national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service ...
, stunt work for climbing movies
* Robert Kayen (born 1959) US, rock climber, professor, scientist, first solo ascent of West Buttress of El Capitan
* Dora Keen (1871–1963) US, ascents in Alps, member of
Royal Geographical Society
The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers), often shortened to RGS, is a learned society and professional body for geography based in the United Kingdom. Founded in 1830 for the advancement of geographical scien ...
, 1914
* Alexander Kellas (1868–1921) UK, altitude record in 1911 on summit of Pauhunri (7,128 m)
* Pat Kelly (climber), Pat Kelly (died 1922) UK, rock climber and founder of Pinnacle Club
* Edward Shirley Kennedy, E. S. Kennedy (1817–1898) UK, first ascent Monte Disgrazia, Mont Blanc du Tacul
* Mikhail Khergiani (1932–1969) Svans, Svan mountaineer of Soviet Georgia, known as the Tiger of the Rocks
* Clarence King (1842–1901) US, geologist and climbing, climber, first director of USGS, first ascent Mount Tyndall
* Andy Kirkpatrick (climber), Andy Kirkpatrick (born 1971) UK, rock and ice climber
* Colin Kirkus (1910–1942) UK, rock climber and alpinist
* Christian Klucker (1853–1928) Switzerland, guide, prolific first ascensionist in Bernina Range and Bregaglia Range, Bregaglia
* M.S. Kohli (born 1931) India, leader of the Indian Everest expedition (1965)
* Layton Kor (1938–2013) US, rock climber and mountaineer, author of ''Beyond the Vertical''
* Dai Koyamada (born 1976) Japan, Sport climbing, sport climber and boulderer
* Jon Krakauer (born 1954) US, author and mountaineer, Everest (1996)
* Hans Kraus (1905–1995) Austria, rock climber, sports medicine and physical medicine and rehabilitation pioneer
* Göran Kropp (1966–2002) Sweden, cycled a bike from Sweden to Everest, soloed Everest without oxygen, and then cycled home (1996)
* Moriz von Kuffner (1854–1939) Austria, first ascents including Eiger north-east face and Mount Maudit's Kuffner Ridge
* Julius Kugy (1858–1944) Austria-Slovenia, father of modern mountaineering in the Julian Alps
* Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989) Poland, the second man to climb all eight-thousanders, 8,000m peaks (9 new routes), four eight-thousanders in winter, only person to climb two eight-thousanders in one winter
* Colonel Narendra Kumar (1933–2020) India, Siachen Glacier and Himalayan veteran
* Jaan Künnap (born 1948) Estonia, mountaineer, and photographer
* Janusz Kurczab (1937–2015) Poland, led 1976 Polish unsuccessful expedition to tackle the northeast ridge of K2
* Wojciech Kurtyka (born 1947) Poland, pioneer of alpine style in high mountains
* Toni Kurz (1913–1936) Germany, attempted Eiger north face in 1936, died during retreat
L
* Constantin Lăcătușu (born 1961) Romania
*
Lino Lacedelli
Lino Lacedelli (4 December 1925 – 20 November 2009) was an Italian mountaineer. Together with Achille Compagnoni, on 31 July 1954 he was the first to reach the summit of K2.
Early life
Lacedelli was born in Cortina d'Ampezzo. His climbing c ...
(1925–2009) Italy, 1954 Italian Karakoram expedition to K2, first ascent K2 (1954) with
Achille Compagnoni
Achille Compagnoni (26 September 1914 – 13 May 2009) was an Italian mountaineer and skier. Together with Lino Lacedelli on 31 July 1954 he was in the first party to reach the summit of K2.
Biography
Compagnoni was born in Santa Caterina d ...
* Louis Lachenal (1921–1955) France, 1950 French Annapurna expedition, first ascent of Annapurna 1950, with Maurice Herzog; died skiing in Chamonix
* Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965–2006) France, 11 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen; died on
Makalu
Makalu (; ) is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, with a summit at an elevation of AMSL. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas southeast of Mount Everest, on the China–Nepal border. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolat ...
* David Lama (1990–2019) Austria, climber and alpinist, notable for the first free ascent of Cerro Torre
* Katie Lamb (born 1997) US, List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Solved by women, first female to climb an boulder with ''Box Therapy'' (2023)
* Raymond Lambert (1914–1997) Switzerland, reached 8611m, highest altitude at that time, with 1952 Swiss Everest expedition
* Eric Langmuir (1931–2005), UK, climber, mountain educationalist and avalanche researcher
* Samantha Larson (born 1988) US, youngest person to complete Seven Summits, at 18 in 2007
* Marc-André Leclerc (1992–2018) Canada, first winter solo ascents of the Torre Egger in Patagonia and the Emperor Face of Mount Robson
* Pete Livesey (1943–1998) UK, influential rock climber in the 1970s
* John Long (climber), John Long (born 1953) US, rock climber and writer; author of ''How to Rock Climb'' series
* Erhard Loretan (1959–2011) Switzerland, 14 eight-thousanders, 8,000m-plus summits (1982–1995)
* Alex Lowe (mountaineer), Alex Lowe (1958–1999) US, climbed
Great Trango Tower
__NOTOC__
The Trango Towers () are a family of rock towers situated in the Gilgit-Baltistan region, in the northern part of Pakistan. The Towers have some of the world's largest cliffs and offer some of the most challenging big wall climbing oppo ...
, Rakekniven in Antarctica and Sail Peak on Baffin Island; died on Shishapangma
* George Lowe (mountaineer), George Lowe (1924–2013) New Zealand, member of 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition
*George Lowe (climber), George Lowe (born 1944) US, alpinist and rock climber, notable for first ascents in the US and Canadian Rockies, Alps, Andes, and Himalayas
* Jeff Lowe (climber), Jeff Lowe (1950–2018) US, made over 1000 first ascents in the US and Canadian Rockies, Alps and Himalayas
* Fritz Luchsinger (1921–1983) Switzerland, first ascent of Lhotse, in 1956
M
* Meherban Karim (1979–2008) Pakistan, Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat, K2 without supplementary oxygen
*Ashish Mane (born 1990) India, Everest (2012), Lhotse (2013), Makalu (2014), Manaslu (2017)
* Tim Macartney-Snape (born 1956) Australia, Everest (1984), first to climb Everest from sea level (1990)
* Tomasz Mackiewicz (1975–2018) Poland, died on winter alpine-style ascent of
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
* Dave MacLeod (born 1978) Scottish people, Scotland, made the first free ascent of the world's first E11 traditional climbing route
* M. Magendran (born 1963) Malaysia, Everest (1997), first Malaysian/Tamil to reach the summit
* Nasuh Mahruki (born 1968) Turkey, Snow Leopard, first Turkish and Muslim climber of Everest
* Janusz Majer (born September 25, 1946) Poland
* Maki Yūkō (1894–1989) Japan, first ascents of Mittellegigrat (Eiger northeast ridge), Mount Alberta; first winter ascent of Mount Yari; led
Manaslu
Manaslu (; , also known as Kutang) is the List of highest mountains#List, eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the ...
first ascent
* Tashi and Nungshi Malik (born 1991) India, many world first female twins records
* George Mallory (1886–1924) UK, initial Timeline of climbing Mount Everest#1921: Reconnaissance expedition, 1921 British Reconnaissance Expedition and the 1922 British Mount Everest Expedition, 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition, 1924 British Mount Everest expeditions, died on Everest at 8,150+ metres
* Sergio Martini (born 1949) Italy, seventh ascent of all eight-thousanders (1983–2000)
* Marie Marvingt (1875–1963) France, first woman to climb most major peaks in the French and Swiss Alps (1903–7)
* William Mathews (mountaineer), William Mathews (1828–1901) UK, founder of
Alpine Club
Alpine clubs are typically large social clubs that revolve around climbing, hiking, and other outdoor activities. Many alpine clubs also take on aspects typically reserved for local sport associations, providing education and training courses, se ...
, first ascent Monte Viso, Grande Casse
* Chantal Mauduit (1964–1998) France, six 8,000m summits without supplementary oxygen, died on
Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition.
Annapur ...
* John Oakley Maund (died 1902) UK, first ascents in Mont Blanc massif
* Eylem Elif Maviş (born 1973) Turkey, first Turkish female ascent of Everest (2006)
* Pierre Mazeaud (born 1929) France,
Walter Bonatti
Walter Bonatti (; 22 June 1930 – 13 September 2011) was an Italian people, Italian mountaineer, alpinist, explorer and journalist. He was noted for many climbing achievements, including a Solo climbing, solo climb of a new alpine climbing route ...
's climbing partner, first French ascent of Everest (1978)
* Daniel Mazur (born 1960) US, numerous ascents in the Himalayas and America
* Steve McClure (born 1970) UK, first Briton to climb 9a twice
* Duncan McDuffie (1877–1951) US, summits in the
Sierra Nevada
The Sierra Nevada ( ) is a mountain range in the Western United States, between the Central Valley of California and the Great Basin. The vast majority of the range lies in the state of California, although the Carson Range spur lies primari ...
* Richard "Dick" McGowan (1933–2007) US, first US successful ascent of Everest, International Himalayan Expedition (1955)
* Ammon McNeely (born 1970) US, noteworthy first one-day ascents and speed records on El Capitan,
Yosemite
Yosemite National Park ( ) is a national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service ...
and Zion big walls
* Alex Megos (born 1993) first climber to on-sight 5.14d/9a route
* Willy Merkl (1900–1934) Germany, led two expeditions to
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
(1932, 1934), died on the mountain
* Alain Mesili (born 1949) France, disputed ascent on Fitz Roy (1970) with Ricardo Arzela, pioneered routes in Bolivia
* Günther Messner (1946–1970) Italy, died on Nanga Parbat
* Reinhold Messner (born 1944) Italy, first to climb all eight-thousanders (1970–1986) and without supplementary oxygen, first ascent without supplementary oxygen of Everest with Peter Habeler (1978) first solo Everest (1980)
* Tracee Metcalfe US, only living American woman to have climbed 13 of the 14 eight-thousanders
* Enid Michael (1883–1966) US, known for Free solo climbing, ropeless climbing in Yosemite in the early 1900s
* John Middendorf (born 1959) US, big-wall rock climber, first ascent East Wall
Great Trango Tower
__NOTOC__
The Trango Towers () are a family of rock towers situated in the Gilgit-Baltistan region, in the northern part of Pakistan. The Towers have some of the world's largest cliffs and offer some of the most challenging big wall climbing oppo ...
(1992)
* Thomas Middlemore (1842–1923) UK, first ascents in Mont Blanc and Bernina massifs, and Bernese Alps
* Ellen Miller (mountaineer), Ellen Miller (born 1959) US, first American woman to summit Nupse and Everest from both sides
* Gwen Moffat (born 1924) UK, author of ''Space Below My Feet'' (1961)
* Jerry Moffatt (born 1963) UK, sport climber and boulderer
* Silvio Mondinelli (born 1968) Italy, 13th to climb all eight-thousanders (sixth without supplementary oxygen)
* Park Moo-taek (1969–2004) Korea, former Guinness World Record holder for fastest time to climb the world's three tallest mountains
* Ben Moon (rock climber), Ben Moon (born 1966) UK, sport climber, and boulderer, world's first with ''Hubble (climbing route), Hubble''
* Adolphus Warburton Moore, A. W. Moore (1841–1887) UK, first ascent Fiescherhorn, Barre des Écrins, Piz Roseg, Ober Gabelhorn
* Tyrhee Moore US, member of the first all-African-American team to climb Denali
* Fritz Moravec (1922–1997) Austria, first ascent
Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II (; ; ); surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan and ...
(1956)
* Piotr Morawski (1976–2009) Poland, many 8000m summits, died on Dhaulagiri/Manasu expedition
* Nea Morin (1905–1986) UK, rock climber and mountain climber
* Simone Moro (born 1967) Italy, first winter ascents of Shishapangma,
Makalu
Makalu (; ) is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, with a summit at an elevation of AMSL. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas southeast of Mount Everest, on the China–Nepal border. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolat ...
,
Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II (; ; ); surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan and ...
, and
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
* Don Morrison (mountaineer), Don Morrison (1929–1977) UK, pioneer of Alpine Style, first ascents in Canada, England, and Himalayas
* Patrick Morrow (born 1952) Canada, first to complete both Bass and Messner Seven Summits lists (1986)
* Tomas Mrazek, Tomáš Mrázek (born 1982) Czechoslovakia, rock climber, World Champion 2003, 2005, winner of World Cup 2004
* John Muir (1838–1914) Scottish-born US conservationist and mountaineer, summits in California and Alaska
* Norrie Muir (1948–2019) Scotland, prolific winter first ascentionist in Scotland
* Albert F. Mummery (1855–1895) UK, Alpine and Himalayan pioneer, killed on
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
* Don Munday (1890–1950) Canada, mountaineer and explorer, husband of Phyllis Munday, explored region around Mount Waddington
* Phyllis Munday (1894–1990) Canada, mountaineer and explorer, explored region around Mount Waddington
* Malli Mastan Babu (1974–2015) India, mountaineer and explorer, world record in completing seven summits in 172 days
N
* Kenro Nakajima (1984–2024) Japan, three time Piolets d'Or, Piolet d'Or winner, died on K2
* Yasuko Namba (1949–1996) Japan, oldest woman at the time to climb Everest at 47 (1996), died on descent
* Wasfia Nazreen (born 1982) Bangladesh, only Bengali person to climb K2 (2022) and first Bengali and Bangladeshi to finish the Seven Summits (2012).
* Vitor Negrete (1967–2006) Brazil, first Brazilian to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen
* Hilaree Nelson (1972–2022) United States, first female to summit two 8000-meter peaks in one 24 hour push (2012). First ski descent Lhotse Couloir from the summit (2018); died on Manaslu
* Fred Nicole Switzerland, numerous
first ascent
In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in climbing guidebook, guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers a ...
s of Sport climbing, sport routes and boulders
* Eleonore Noll-Hasenclever (1880–1925) Germany, first woman to climb eastern wall of Monte Rosa (1919); killed by avalanche on the Bishorn
* Jamling Tenzing Norgay (born 1965) Nepal, son of Tenzing Norgay, climbed Everest with Edmund Hillary's son, Peter Hillary (2003)
* Tenzing Norgay (1914–1986) Sherpa (people), Sherpa, first ascent Everest (1953) with Edmund Hillary
* Edward F. Norton (1884–1954) leader of 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition with Mallory and Irvine
* Sue Nott (1969–2006) US, ice climber and first American woman to climb the Eiger north face in winter (2003)
* Wilfrid Noyce (1917–1962) UK, on Everest expedition (1953), reaching South Col, killed in Pamirs (1962)
* Arne Næss (1912–2009) Norway, philosopher and mountaineer, leader of expedition on first ascent Tirich Mir (1950)
* Arne Næss jr. (1937–2004) Norway, leader, Norwegian Everest expedition (1985)
O
* Vanessa O'Brien (born 1964) First British-American woman to summit K2
* Cathy O'Dowd (born 1968) South Africa, first female ascent of Everest from both north and south (1999), fourth female ascent Lhotse (2000)
* Oh Eun-Sun (born 1966) South Korea, first Korean woman to climb Seven Summits, controversy over eight-thousanders claim
* Juanito Oiarzabal (born 1956) Basque (Spain), all eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen, record 24 ascents of eight-thousanders
* Clare O'Leary (born 1972) Ireland, first Irish woman to climb Mount Everest (2004)
* Adam Ondra (born 1993) Czech Republic, first to redpoint a 9c
* Dan Osman (1963–1998) US, rock climber, soloist, killed whilst attempting his new sport of rope jumping
* James Outram (mountaineer), James Outram (1864–1925) Canada, first ascent of Mount Assiniboine
P
* Michel-Gabriel Paccard (1757–1827) France, first ascent Mont Blanc (1786)
* Bachendri Pal (born 1954) first Indian female ascent (and fifth female ascent) Everest
* Tsewang Paljor (1968–1996) India, died on Everest in 1996 Mount Everest disaster
* Ines Papert (born 1974) German ice climber, apinist and author
* Marie Paradis (1757–1827) France, first female ascent Mont Blanc (1809)
* Park Young Seok, Young-seok Park (1963–2011) South Korea, first true Explorers Grand Slam (2005), died on Annapurna
* Elizabeth Parker (journalist), Elizabeth Parker (1856–1944) Canada, journalist and mountaineer
* Edurne Pasaban (born 1973) Basque, Spain, first woman to climb all eight-thousanders
* Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993) first Nepali woman to summit Everest, died on descent (1993)
* Tom Patey (1932–1970) UK, first ascent Muztagh Tower (1956),
Am Buachaille
Am Buachaille is a sea stack, or vertical rock formation composed of Torridonian Sandstone, southwest of Sandwood Bay in the Scottish county of Sutherland. It lies at the tip of the Rubh' a Bhuachaille headland around north of Kinlochbervie.
...
(1968), killed in abseiling accident, author of ''One Man's Mountains''
* Krushnaa Patil (born 1989) India, second youngest Indian girl to climb Mount Everest
* Maciej Pawlikowski (born 1951) Poland, first winter ascent of
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
* Ryszard Pawłowski
* Julius Payer (1841–1915) Czech-Austrian polar explorer who made many first ascents in the Adamello and Ortler mountains in the 1860s
* Annie Smith Peck (1850–1935) US, mountaineer
* William Penhall (1858–1882) UK, first ascent
Matterhorn
The , ; ; ; or ; ; . is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the Main chain of the Alps, main watershed and border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, ...
west face
* Jim Perrin (born 1947) UK, over 200 first/free ascents in Britain
* Oliver Perry-Smith (1884–1969) US, a rock climber in Saxon Switzerland and the Dolomites
*
Petrarch
Francis Petrarch (; 20 July 1304 – 19 July 1374; ; modern ), born Francesco di Petracco, was a scholar from Arezzo and poet of the early Italian Renaissance, as well as one of the earliest Renaissance humanism, humanists.
Petrarch's redis ...
(1304–1374) Italy, climbed
Mont Ventoux
Mont Ventoux (; ) is a mountain in the Provence region of southern France, located some northeast of Carpentras, Vaucluse. On the north side, the mountain borders the department of Drôme. At , it is the highest mountain in the region and h ...
(1336)
* Elfrida Pigou (1911–1960) Canadian female climber, discovered crash site of Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810, died on Mount Waddington
* Tadeusz Piotrowski (mountaineer), Tadeusz Piotrowski mountaineer
* Burçak Özoğlu Poçan (born 1970) Turkey, first Turkish female over 8,000 m (2005)
* Klára Poláčková (born 1978) first Czech female to ascent Everest
* Dean Potter (1972–2015) US, speed soloed El Cap in 4:17; speed soloed El Cap and Half Dome in one day
* Paul Preuss (climber), Paul Preuss (1886–1913) Austria, an early promoter of
free climbing
Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber can only use climbing equipment for climbing protection but not as an artificial aid to help them in ascending the route. Free climbing, therefore, cannot use any of the tools that ...
, climbed 1200 peaks in his short life
* Marko Prezelj, Slovenian mountaineer and winner of 4 Piolet d'Ors (1992, 2007, 2015, 2016)
* Paul Pritchard (born 1967) UK, rock climber
* Hristo Prodanov (1943–1984) Bulgaria, soloed Lhotse (1981) and Everest (1984), died on the descent
* Bonnie Prudden (1914–2011) pioneering US rock climber and exercise advocate, 30 documented first ascents in the Gunks
* Karl Prusik (1896–1961) Austria, introduced widely used Prusik knot
* Ramón Julián Puigblanque (born 1981) Spain, rock climber
* Nirmal Purja (born 1982) Nepal, first to climb all fourteen 8000 meter mountains in one season (6 months, 6 days, with supplemental oxygen)
* Ludwig Purtscheller (1849–1900) first ascent Kilimanjaro (1889)
* Piotr Pustelnik (born 1951) Poland, 20th person to climb all 14 eight thousanders
* Boyan Petrov (born 1973) Bulgaria, climbed 10 out of 14 eight-thousanders, all without supplementary oxygen
R
* Brooke Raboutou (born 2001) US, member of the 2020 American Olympic climbing team
* Aron Ralston (born 1975) US, gained fame after amputating his right arm to free himself after a canyoneering incident
* Paul Ramsden (climber), Paul Ramsden (born 1969), England, first alpinist to win the Piolet d'Or five times
* Tom Randall (climber), Tom Randall UK, first free ascent of ''Century Crack''
* Lisa Rands (born 1975) US, rock climber and boulderer
* Michael Reardon (climber), Michael Reardon (1974–2007) US, prolific free solo climbing, free solo climber and film producer
* Dave Rearick (born 1934) US, rock climber, first ascent of Diamond on Longs Peak (1960)
* Gaston Rébuffat (1921–1985) France, 1950 French Annapurna expedition, 1950 Annapurna expedition, first to climb all six great north faces of the Alps, Alpine guide and author
* Ernst Reiss (1920–2010) Swiss, first ascent of Lhotse (1956)
* Monique Richard (alpinist), Monique Richard (born 1975) Canada, first woman to solo climb Mount Logan, first Canadian woman to summit Mt
Makalu
Makalu (; ) is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, with a summit at an elevation of AMSL. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas southeast of Mount Everest, on the China–Nepal border. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolat ...
,
Seven Summits
The Seven Summits are the highest mountains on each of the seven traditional continents. On 30 April 1985, Richard Bass became the first climber to reach the summit of all seven.
In January 2023, ''Climbing (magazine), Climbing'' said "Today, t ...
in 32 months
* Dorothy Pilley Richards (1894–1986) UK, wrote ''Climbing Days'' (1935)
* Katharine Richardson (1854–1927) UK, a mountaineer in the Alps in the 1880s
* Mark Richey (born 1958) US, two-time winner of the Piolet d'Or in 2012 and 2020
* Rick Ridgeway (born 1950) US, member of the first American team to summit K2''American Alpine Journal'', 1979, pp. 1–18
* Leni Riefenstahl (1902–2003) Germany, filmmaker, actress, and mountaineer
* Ang Rita (1948–2020) Sherpa people, Sherpa, climbed Everest ten times without supplemental oxygen
* Royal Robbins (1935–2017) US, rock climber, pioneer of modern
Yosemite
Yosemite National Park ( ) is a national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service ...
climbing in the 1950s
* Alain Robert (born 1962) France, climber and Buildering, builderer
* David Roberts (climber), David Roberts (1943–2021) US, author, first ascents of Wickersham Wall (
Denali
Denali (), federally designated as Mount McKinley, is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the tallest mountain in the world from base to peak on land, measuring . On p. 20 of Helm ...
) and other Alaskan peaks
* Paul Robinson (climber), Paul Robinson (born 1987) US, rock climber and boulderer
* André Roch (1906–2002) Switzerland, Everest 1952 attempt, many first ascents in Alps and Asia
* Beth Rodden (born 1980) US, rock climber and first female to match the highest male grades in traditional climbing with ''Meltdown''
* Jordan Romero (born 1996) US, became the youngest person to climb Everest on May 22, 2010, aged 13 years, 10 months, 10 days
* Steve Roper guidebook writer, editor of ''Ascent (journal), Ascent'', first ascent of West Buttress of El Capitan.
* John Roskelley (born 1948) US, author, alpinist, Himalayan climber notable for technical first ascents of 7000 and 8000 m peaks
* Fred Rouhling (born 1970) France, rock climber, notable for the world's fourth rock climb (and first in France), and the controversy over ''Akira''
* Alan Rouse (1951–1986) UK, soloed many of hardest routes of day, died on descent from K2 (1986)
* Galen Rowell (1940–2002) US, photographer and mountaineer, first one-day ascents of Denali and Kilimanjaro, first ascent
Great Trango Tower
__NOTOC__
The Trango Towers () are a family of rock towers situated in the Gilgit-Baltistan region, in the northern part of Pakistan. The Towers have some of the world's largest cliffs and offer some of the most challenging big wall climbing oppo ...
* Henry Russell (explorer), Henry Russell (1834–1909) France/Ireland, prolific first ascensionist in Pyrenees
* Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943–1992) Poland, first woman on K2, 8,000m-peak veteran, died attempting
Kanchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
S
* Rosemary Saal (born 1990s), American mountaineer
* Nazir Sabir Gilgit-Baltistan Pakistan, first Pakistani to climb Mount Everest
* Hassan Sadpara (born 1963) Gilgit-Baltistan Pakistan, starting as a high altitude porter, he climbed 5xPakistani 8000ers and Everest, without supplementary oxygen
* Mostafa Salameh (born 1970) Jordan, first Jordanian to summit Everest, and Seven Summits
* John Salathé (1900–1993) Switzerland/US, pioneering Yosemite, Yosemite National Park, inventor of modern piton
* Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) France, third ascent Mont Blanc (1787), funded first ascent
* Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005) Austria, first ascent
Broad Peak
Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
, first ascent Skil Brum
* Peter Schoening (1927–2004) US, first ascent
Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I, originally surveyed as K5, and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is located between Shigar District in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and Tashkurgan in the Xi ...
and Vinson Massif, saved five climbers on K2 (1953)
* Peter Sprenger (1953–2018), Liechtenstein, first Liechtensteiner to reach the summit of Mount Everest
* Jakob Schubert (born 1990) Austria, one of the most successful competition climbing, competition climbers in history
* Doug Scott (1941–2020) UK, Seven Summits, first ascent Everest south-west face, Baintha Brakk (descent with broken ankles), Kangchenjunga, Nuptse
* Vittorio Sella (1859–1943) Italy, mountaineer and pioneer photographer
* Nalini Sengupta India, educationist and mountaineer, namesake of Mount Nalini, originally peak 5260 in the Himalayas, near the Hamta Pass region of Manali, Himachal Pradesh
* Chris Sharma (born 1981) US, first to climb consensus with ''Realization (climb), Realization/Biographie'' (2001), and with ''Jumbo Love'' (2008).
* John Sherman (climber), John Sherman (born 1959) US, inventor of "V" grading system
* Apa Sherpa (born early 1960s) Nepal, record for most ascents of Everest (20 as of 2010)
* Lhakpa Sherpa (born 1973) Nepal, first woman to summit Everest ten times (2022)
* Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993) Nepal, first Nepali woman to climb Everest, died during descent
* Pemba Doma Sherpa (1970–2007) Nepal, first Nepali female mountaineer to climb Everest north face, died on Lhotse
* Pemba Dorjie Sherpa Nepal, fastest ascent of Everest (2003)
* Eric Shipton (1907–1977) UK, first ascent Kamet, pioneered route across the Khumbu Glacier
* Ashima Shiraishi (born 2001) US, first female to climb V15 (Horizon, Mount Hiei, Japan)
* William Shockley (1910–1989) US, Nobel Prize-winning physicist, proponent of eugenics, first ascent Shockleys Ceiling in the Gunks (1953)
* Joe Simpson (mountaineer), Joe Simpson (born 1960) UK, survived a fall on Siula Grande, wrote ''Touching the Void (book), Touching the Void''
* Arunima Sinha India, first Indian people, Indian amputee to climb Everest
* Todd Skinner (1958–2006) US, rock climber, first free ascent Salathe Wall, died on Leaning Tower
* Cecilie Skog (born 1974) Norway, first female to climb Seven Summits and both Poles, Everest and K2
* Laurie Skreslet (born 1949) Canada, first Canadian to summit Everest (1982)
* William Cecil Slingsby (1849–1929) UK, first ascent Store Skagastølstind (1876), pioneer of Norwegian mountaineering
* Frank Smythe (1900–1949) UK, first ascent Kamet (1931) with Eric Shipton, Shipton, R. Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa, reached 8565m on Everest in 1933 without supplementary oxygen
* Dermot Somers Ireland, climber, author and broadcaster
* Carlos Soria Fontán (born 1939) Spain, the only mountaineer to have ascended nine mountains of more than 8,000 meters after turning 60 years old
* Jaahnavi Sriperambuduru (born 2001) India.
* William Grant Stairs (1863–1892) Canada, first non-African to climb in the Rwenzori Mountains, Ruwenzoris
* Allen Steck (1926–2023) US, mountaineer and rock climber
* Ueli Steck (1976–2017) Switzerland, soloed Eiger north face in 2:22:50 hours (2015)
* Leslie Stephen (1832–1904) UK, author and alpinist, first ascent Schreckhorn, Monte Disgrazia, Zinalrothorn
* Fritz Steuri (1879–1950) Switzerland, skier and mountain guide; first ascent of Mittellegigrat (northeast ridge of Eiger) (1921)
* Edward Lisle Strutt (1874–1948) UK, deputy leader on 1922 Everest expedition, outspoken ''Alpine Journal'' editor, 1927–37
* Gottlieb Samuel Studer (1804–1890) Switzerland, first ascent Wildhorn (1843), founding member of Swiss Alpine Club
* Satyarup Siddhanta (born 1983) India, climbed Mont Blanc, climbed 6 of the 7 summits, climbed Mt Everest on 21 May 2016
T
* Junko Tabei (1939–2016) Japan, first female ascent Everest; first completion of Bass and Messner's Seven Summits
* Kei Taniguchi (mountaineer), Kei Taniguchi (1972–2015) Japan, first female winner of the Piolet d'Or in 2009
*
Joe Tasker
Joe Tasker (12 May 1948 – 17 May 1982) was a British Climbing, climber, active during the late 1970s and early 1980s. He died while climbing Mount Everest.
Early life
Born into a Roman Catholic family in 1948, Tasker was the second of ten ...
(1948–1982) UK, Dunagiri (mountain), Dunagiri,
Kanchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
, Changabang West Wall; died on Everest (May 1982)
* Asma Al Thani first Qatari woman to ascend Everest and Ama Dablam; first Arab to summit an eight-thousander without oxygen
* Vernon Tejas (born 1953) US, first solo winter ascent
Denali
Denali (), federally designated as Mount McKinley, is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the tallest mountain in the world from base to peak on land, measuring . On p. 20 of Helm ...
,
Seven Summits
The Seven Summits are the highest mountains on each of the seven traditional continents. On 30 April 1985, Richard Bass became the first climber to reach the summit of all seven.
In January 2023, ''Climbing (magazine), Climbing'' said "Today, t ...
time world record
* Lionel Terray (1921–1965) France, first ascents Fitz Roy, Chakrarahu, Jannu and
Makalu
Makalu (; ) is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, with a summit at an elevation of AMSL. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas southeast of Mount Everest, on the China–Nepal border. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolat ...
on the
1955 French Makalu expedition
The 1955 French Makalu expedition was the first to successfully climb Makalu, the Himalayan mountain to the southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet. At Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world and an eight-t ...
; second ascent Eiger north face (1947)
* Vladislav Terzyul (1953–2004) Ukraine, disputed claim to have climbed all eight-thousanders
* Kevin Thaw (born 1967) UK, ascents in Himalayas and
Yosemite
Yosemite National Park ( ) is a national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service ...
* Herbert Tichy (1912–1987) Austrian, first ascent
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
(1954)
* Bill Tilman (1898–1977) UK, explorer, climbed in Africa and Himalaya, Shipton-Tilman Nanda Devi expeditions, first ascent Nanda Devi (1936)
* Luis Trenker (1892–1990) Italy, mountaineer, film director and writer
* Sonnie Trotter (born 1979) Canada, award-winning climber, known for hard trad climbing
* Francis Fox Tuckett (1834–1913) UK, first ascent Aletschhorn (1859)
* Julie Tullis (1939–1986) UK,
Broad Peak
Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
(1984) and K2 (1986); died on descent from K2
* Mark Twight (born 1962) US, advocate of "light and fast" style of mountaineering
* John Tyndall (1820–1893) UK, early attempts on
Matterhorn
The , ; ; ; or ; ; . is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the Main chain of the Alps, main watershed and border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, ...
, first ascent Weisshorn (1861)
U
* Naomi Uemura (1941–1984) Japan, first solo winter ascent
Denali
Denali (), federally designated as Mount McKinley, is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the tallest mountain in the world from base to peak on land, measuring . On p. 20 of Helm ...
, on which he died
* James Ramsey Ullman (1908–1971) US, author and mountaineer
* Ugur Uluocak (1962–2003) Turkey, mountaineer, photographer and editor, died on Mount Alarcha in Kyrgyzstan
* Um Hong-Gil (born 1960) South Korea, 9th person to climb all eight-thousanders, first to climb 16 highest peaks
* Willi Unsoeld (1926–1979) US, 1963 American Mount Everest expedition, first ascent Everest west ridge (1963), died on
Mount Rainier
Mount Rainier ( ), also known as Tahoma, is a large active stratovolcano in the Cascade Range of the Pacific Northwest in the United States. The mountain is located in Mount Rainier National Park about south-southeast of Seattle. With an off ...
(1979)
* Karl Unterkircher (1970–2008) Italy, Everest and K2 in the same year without oxygen, died on
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
* Denis Urubko (born 1973) Kazakhstan, 14x8000er; first winter ascents of
Makalu
Makalu (; ) is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, with a summit at an elevation of AMSL. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas southeast of Mount Everest, on the China–Nepal border. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolat ...
and
Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II (; ; ); surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan and ...
, Snow Leopard award winner
V
* Arjun Vajpai (born 1993) India, climbed Everest 2010, Lhotse 2011 and
Manaslu
Manaslu (; , also known as Kutang) is the List of highest mountains#List, eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the ...
2011
* Ivan Vallejo (born 1959) Ecuador, 14th person to climb all eight-thousanders (7th without supplemental oxygen)
* Patrick Vallençant (1946–1989) France, alpinist/skier and ski mountaineering pioneer
* Anak Verhoeven (born 1996) Belgium, first woman to claim a first ascent of a 5.15a
*Allison Vest (born 1995) Canada, two-time Canadian Bouldering Nationals champion
* Ed Viesturs (born 1959) US, first US climber to climb all eight-thousander (6th without supplemental oxygen)
* Sibusiso Vilane (born 1970) South Africa, first black African to summit Everest (2003)
* Ludwig Vörg (1911–1941) Germany, first ascent Eiger north face (1938)
W
* Horace Walker (1838–1908) UK, first ascent Mount Elbrus,
Grandes Jorasses
The Grandes Jorasses (; 4,208 m; 13,806 ft) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif, on the boundary between Haute-Savoie in France and Aosta Valley in Italy.
The first ascent of the highest peak of the mountain (''Pointe Walker'') was by H ...
, Barre des Ecrins, Obergabelhorn
* Lucy Walker (climber), Lucy Walker (1836–1916) UK, first female ascent
Matterhorn
The , ; ; ; or ; ; . is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the Main chain of the Alps, main watershed and border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, ...
(1871)
* Barbara Washburn US, first ascent Mount Bertha, first female ascent Denali (1947)
* Bradford Washburn (1910–2007) US, third ascent Denali, pioneered west buttress route
* Ryan Waters (born 1973) US, first American to complete unsupported North and South Poles
* Don Whillans (1933–1985) UK, first ascent 1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition, Annapurna south face (1970)
* Rick White (rock climber), Rick White (1946–2004) Australia, rock climber, developed Frog Buttress (1968)
* Jim Whittaker (born 1929) US, 1963 American Mount Everest expedition, first US ascent Everest (1963)
* Lou Whittaker (1929–2024) US, Rainier guide
* Pete Whittaker (born 1991) UK, first free ascent of ''Century Crack''
* Edward Whymper (1840–1911) UK, first ascent
Matterhorn
The , ; ; ; or ; ; . is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the Main chain of the Alps, main watershed and border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, ...
(1865), first ascent Chimborazo (volcano), Chimborazo (1880)
* Jim Wickwire (born 1940) US, K2 (1978) (bivouacked near summit)
*
Krzysztof Wielicki
Krzysztof Jerzy Wielicki (Polish pronunciation: ; born 5 January 1950) is a Polish mountaineer, regarded as one of the greatest Polish climbers in history. He is the 5th man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders and the first ever to climb Mount ...
(born 1950) Poland, first winter ascent Everest; fifth person to climb all eight-thousanders
* Karl Wien (1906–1937) Germany, leader of unsuccessful
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
expedition (1937)
* Fritz Wiessner (1900–1988) US, born Dresden, emigrated to US; pioneer of
free climbing
Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber can only use climbing equipment for climbing protection but not as an artificial aid to help them in ascending the route. Free climbing, therefore, cannot use any of the tools that ...
; K2 expedition (1939)
* Sydney Wignall (1922–2012) UK, Climbed Gurla Mandhata in 1955
* Walter Wilcox (1869–1949) Canadian Rockies explorer
* Martyn S. Williams (born 1947) UK, first person to lead expeditions to South Pole (1989), North Pole (1992) and Mount Everest (1991)
* George Willig (born 1949) US, climbed South Tower of World Trade Center (1973–2001), World Trade Center
* Fritz Wintersteller (1927–2018) Austria, first ascent
Broad Peak
Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
(1957) and Skil Brum (1957)
* Ian Woodall (born 1956) UK, climbed Everest several times
* Daniel Woods (born 1989) USA, climbed world's hardest boulder problem, Flash (V15) in 2011
* Fanny Bullock Workman (1859–1925) US, geographer, cartographer, and mountaineer, notably in the Himalayas
Y
* Santosh Yadav (born 1969) India, Indo-Tibetan Border Police woman, climbed Everest twice (1992 and 1993)
* Simon Yates (mountaineer), Simon Yates (born 1963) UK, Joe Simpson (mountaineer), Joe Simpson's partner on west face of Siula Grande (1985), subject of ''Touching the Void (film), Touching the Void''
* Michael J. Ybarra (1966–2012) US, climber and writer, extreme sports correspondent for ''The Wall Street Journal'' 2007–2012
* Wang Yongfeng (born 1963) China, first Chinese couple to climb Seven Summits (with Li Zhixin)
* Ichiro Yoshizawa (1903–1998) Japan, climber and writer; K2 (1977)Ichiro Yoshizawa - Obituary
* Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1876–1958) UK, first ascent Täschhorn south face, Weisshorn west ridge,
Grandes Jorasses
The Grandes Jorasses (; 4,208 m; 13,806 ft) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif, on the boundary between Haute-Savoie in France and Aosta Valley in Italy.
The first ascent of the highest peak of the mountain (''Pointe Walker'') was by H ...
traverse
Z
* Andrzej Zawada (1928–2000) Poland, pioneer of winter Himalayism
* Li Zhixin (born 1962) China, half of first Chinese couple to climb the Seven Summits with Wang Yongfeng
* Emil Zsigmondy (1861–1885) Austria, physician and mountain climber; died trying to force new route on the Meije
* Jerzy Żuławski (1874–1915) Polish literary figure, philosopher, translator and alpinist
* Juliusz Żuławski (1910–1999) Polish poet, prose writer, literary critic, translator and climber; son of Jerzy Żuławski
* Marek Żuławski (1908–1985) Polish painter, graphic artist, author and climber; son of Jerzy Żuławski
* Wawrzyniec Żuławski (1916–1957) Polish composer, music critic and teacher; died during Mont Blanc rescue mission; son of Jerzy Żuławski
* Matthias Zurbriggen (1856–1917) Switzerland, first ascent
Aconcagua
Aconcagua () is a mountain in the Principal Cordillera of the Andes mountain range, in Mendoza Province, Argentina. It is the highest mountain in the Americas, the highest outside Asia, and the highest in both the Western Hemisphere and the ...
(1897)
See also
*History of rock climbing
*List of grade milestones in rock climbing
*List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest
References
External links
Mountaineering Who's Who
{{Portal bar, Climbing
Climbers,
Lists of sportspeople by sport, Climbers and mountaineers
Mountaineering, *
Climbing and mountaineering-related lists,
Mountain climbers