Charles-François Richard
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Charles-François Richard, also known as Richard-Chambovet (born 9 August 1772 in
Bourg-Argental Bourg-Argental (; ; ) is a commune in the Loire department in central France. Population See also *Communes of the Loire department The following is a list of the 320 communes of the Loire department of France. The communes cooperate i ...
,
Forez Forez (; ) is a Provinces of France, former province of France, corresponding approximately to the central part of the modern Loire (department), Loire ''département in France, département'' and a part of the Haute-Loire and Puy-de-Dôme ''dépa ...
province A province is an administrative division within a country or sovereign state, state. The term derives from the ancient Roman , which was the major territorial and administrative unit of the Roman Empire, Roman Empire's territorial possessions ou ...
; died 15 April 1851 in
Saint-Chamond St Chamond may refer to: * Saint Chamond otherwise Annemund, bishop of Lyon * Saint-Chamond, Loire, a French town named after him * Saint-Chamond (manufacturer), informal name for the ''Compagnie des forges et aciéries de la marine et d'Homéco ...
, Loire department), was a French
silk Silk is a natural fiber, natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be weaving, woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is most commonly produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoon (silk), c ...
industrialist A business magnate, also known as an industrialist or tycoon, is a person who is a powerful entrepreneur and investor who controls, through personal enterprise ownership or a dominant shareholding position, a firm or industry whose goods or ser ...
, and more notably the initiator of the
lace Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is split into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted o ...
industry. After a brief military interlude - due to the revolutionary turmoil - his beginnings as a
miller A miller is a person who operates a mill, a machine to grind a grain (for example corn or wheat) to make flour. Milling is among the oldest of human occupations. "Miller", "Milne" and other variants are common surnames, as are their equivalents ...
were modest. He then established himself as a passementier specializing in the manufacture of padous, the
ribbon A ribbon or riband is a thin band of material, typically cloth but also plastic or sometimes metal, used primarily as decorative binding and tying. Cloth ribbons are made of natural materials such as silk, cotton, and jute and of synthetic mate ...
s needed for
culottes Culottes are an item of clothing worn on the lower half of the body. The term can refer to either split skirts, historical men's breeches, or women's underpants; this is an example of fashion-industry words taken from designs across history, ...
and catogans. But ruined for the first time by the general economic slump, fashion later abandoned them for good, putting an end to the business. Looking for a new direction, Richard went to the brand-new
Musée des Arts et Métiers The Musée des Arts et Métiers (; English: Museum of Arts and Crafts) is an industrial design museum in Paris that houses the collection of the Conservatoire national des arts et métiers, which was founded in 1794 as a repository for the preser ...
, where he met Joseph de Montgolfier. There, he found a rudimentary braiding loom that produced round-section elements - until then, weaving looms had only been able to produce flat elements - and from then on, he worked tirelessly to improve it. Thus, this pioneer paved the way for the industrial manufacture of laces. On the one hand, he innovated by developing these looms, and on the other, he added a
steam engine A steam engine is a heat engine that performs Work (physics), mechanical work using steam as its working fluid. The steam engine uses the force produced by steam pressure to push a piston back and forth inside a Cylinder (locomotive), cyl ...
as a driving force. Later, he remained a pioneer, installing a central-heating
boiler A boiler is a closed vessel in which fluid (generally water) is heated. The fluid does not necessarily boil. The heated or vaporized fluid exits the boiler for use in various processes or heating applications, including water heating, centra ...
in his workshops, which increased profitability and enabled more meticulous work. Finally, he equipped his workshops with
gas lighting Gas lighting is the production of artificial light from combustion of a fuel gas such as methane, propane, butane, acetylene, ethylene, hydrogen, carbon monoxide, coal gas (town gas) or natural gas. The light is produced either directly by ...
to boost productivity. As part of the nascent
industrial revolution The Industrial Revolution, sometimes divided into the First Industrial Revolution and Second Industrial Revolution, was a transitional period of the global economy toward more widespread, efficient and stable manufacturing processes, succee ...
, Charles-François Richard was at the origin of an industry that dominated Europe and was recognized as far afield as America. The production of laces was of prime importance at this time: they were very widespread
haberdashery __NOTOC__ In British English, a haberdasher is a business or person who sells small articles for sewing, dressmaking and knitting, such as buttons, ribbons, and zippers; in the United States, the term refers instead to a men's clothing store ...
items, used for a variety of fastenings. As a result, the town of Saint-Chamond, where Richard settled, became a major player in this field.


Biography

Baptized on 9 August 1772, the day of his birth in
Bourg-Argental Bourg-Argental (; ; ) is a commune in the Loire department in central France. Population See also *Communes of the Loire department The following is a list of the 320 communes of the Loire department of France. The communes cooperate i ...
, Charles-François Richard was the second of six siblings. His parents were
Jean-Louis Richard Jean-Louis Richard (17 May 1927 – 3 June 2012) was a French actor, film director and scriptwriter. Biography Born as Jean Marius Richard in Paris, Richard was Jeanne Moreau's first husband from 1949 to 1951. Partial filmography *1960: '' ...
, a
court clerk A court clerk (British English: clerk to the court or clerk of the court ; American English: clerk of the court or clerk of court ) is an officer of the court whose responsibilities include maintaining records of a court and administering oaths ...
and future deputy to the
Estates General of 1789 The Estates General of 1789 () was a general assembly representing the French estates of the realm: the clergy (First Estate), the nobility (Second Estate), and the commoners (Third Estate). It was the last of the Estates General of the Kingdom ...
, and Marie Chevalier. Involved in the
silk Silk is a natural fiber, natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be weaving, woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is most commonly produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoon (silk), c ...
industry, the household earned part of its income from the cultivation of
mulberry ''Morus'', a genus of flowering plants in the family Moraceae, consists of 19 species of deciduous trees commonly known as mulberries, growing wild and under cultivation in many temperate world regions. Generally, the genus has 64 subordinat ...
trees on which
silkworms ''Bombyx mori'', commonly known as the domestic silk moth, is a moth species belonging to the family Bombycidae. It is the closest relative of '' Bombyx mandarina'', the wild silk moth. Silkworms are the larvae of silk moths. The silkworm is of ...
were raised. At the age of twenty-one, with the National Guards of
Saint-Étienne Saint-Étienne (; Franco-Provençal: ''Sant-Etiève''), also written St. Etienne, is a city and the prefecture of the Loire département, in eastern-central France, in the Massif Central, southwest of Lyon, in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes regi ...
and Montbrison, he went to
Lyon Lyon (Franco-Provençal: ''Liyon'') is a city in France. It is located at the confluence of the rivers Rhône and Saône, to the northwest of the French Alps, southeast of Paris, north of Marseille, southwest of Geneva, Switzerland, north ...
to help with the city's uprising against the National Convention. On 11 fructidor year I (28 August 1793), his detachment, posted to protect the arrival of a convoy of grain from
Forez Forez (; ) is a Provinces of France, former province of France, corresponding approximately to the central part of the modern Loire (department), Loire ''département in France, département'' and a part of the Haute-Loire and Puy-de-Dôme ''dépa ...
, successfully confronted a besieging formation. But, abandoned by his family, he became a "forgotten sentry .. hotried in vain to return to Lyon, hoobtained peasant's clothes and returned to Bourg-Argental ... Outlawed, he enlisted in Tournon in the 4th battalion of Ardèche volunteers. This unit, formed on the 4th Complementary Day of Year I (20 September 1793) in
Bourg-Saint-Andéol Bourg-Saint-Andéol (; ) is a commune in the Ardèche department in the Rhône Valley in southern France. Geography It lies directly along the river Rhône at the southeast end of the department south of the smaller town Viviers, from P ...
, was commanded by
Louis-Gabriel Suchet Louis-Gabriel Suchet, duc d' Albuféra (; 2 March 1770 – 3 January 1826), was a French Marshal of the Empire and one of the most successful commanders of the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. He is regarded as one of the greatest ...
, from a family of silk merchants. After the
siege of Toulon The siege of Toulon (29 August – 19 December 1793) was a military engagement that took place during the Federalist revolts and the War of the First Coalition, part of the French Revolutionary Wars. It was undertaken by forces of the French Re ...
, he joined his father Jean-Louis Richard, also a proscribe, in the same battalion in
Marseille Marseille (; ; see #Name, below) is a city in southern France, the Prefectures in France, prefecture of the Departments of France, department of Bouches-du-Rhône and of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Regions of France, region. Situated in the ...
. This commitment was sometimes physically demanding, as his son Ennemond explains: "My father had been a soldier in the Army of Italy; for eight months, he had been deprived of his military bag and had slept with the snow, in the hedges that were half-open and then covered with his coat". His constitution proved robust, however, and the only health problems he encountered later on were limited to urinary stones, which required the intervention of a Parisian surgeon. In 1794, he attained the rank of lieutenant. Then, released from all obligations on 9 Floréal Year IV (28 April 1796) by "the board of directors of the 69th demi-brigade of line infantry", he left the Army of Italy as a supernumerary officer. On 23 fructidor, year VI (9 September 1798), he married a relative by marriage named Marie Chambovet in
Saint-Chamond St Chamond may refer to: * Saint Chamond otherwise Annemund, bishop of Lyon * Saint-Chamond, Loire, a French town named after him * Saint-Chamond (manufacturer), informal name for the ''Compagnie des forges et aciéries de la marine et d'Homéco ...
, from whom he had four childrenHis four children, born in Saint-Chamond, were: Jean Louis François (30 brumaire an XIII (21 November 1804)), Ennemond Julien (25 January 1806), François Jules (12 January 1815), Jeanne Françoise Marie Louise (10 September 1820). and from whom he took his customary name "Richard-Chambovet". By 1817, working in the silk industry, he was an established industrialist. The six-member Chambre consultative des arts et manufactures de
Saint-Étienne Saint-Étienne (; Franco-Provençal: ''Sant-Etiève''), also written St. Etienne, is a city and the prefecture of the Loire département, in eastern-central France, in the Massif Central, southwest of Lyon, in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes regi ...
elected him miller.As "moulinier" (miller), as it seems that the activity of "lace maker" was not yet recognized. After its dissolution in 1792, the Société d'agriculture, arts et commerce de l'arrondissement de Saint-Étienne was recreated in 1820. His first Bulletin, from 1823, indicates that he is a member. In 1824, this Society published part of the notice princeps in which he described his early career. The commentary was laudatory, as Saint-Chamond, under his impetus, became the capital of shoelaces. In 1827, Richard-Chambovet had a ''
hôtel particulier () is the French term for a grand urban mansion, comparable to a Townhouse (Great Britain), British townhouse. Whereas an ordinary (house) was built as part of a row, sharing party walls with the houses on either side and directly fronting on a ...
'' built as a testament to his success, with a garden that reached as far as the city limits.The Richard-Chambovet mansion has coordinates 45° 28′ 35″ N, 4° 30′ 38″ E.The Richard-Chambovet ''hôtel particulier'' is U-shaped. At the beginning of the 20th century, its courtyard was enclosed by monumental railings - visible on Wikimedia Commons - which disappeared in the 21st century. Nevertheless, the building is still present at 44-48 rue de la République, although it is divided into apartments with a courtyard filled with housing. "The fronts of the balconies bear the family initials Richard-Chambovet, the year 1827 and the lyre, an antique decorative motif in vogue at the time." In 1829, probably because of his notability, he was the "temporal godfather" of the new Ursuline house in Saint-Chamond.The bell, Marie-Charlotte, in the newly erected chapel of the Ursuline house bears his and his wife's first names. In 1833, he was still listed as a full member of the Society. Electoral mandates were added to his manufacturing activities. He was a member of the Saint-Chamond town council in 1808. This council favored the Restoration. Its vision of social peace was based on a balance between the divine
monarchy A monarchy is a form of government in which a person, the monarch, reigns as head of state for the rest of their life, or until abdication. The extent of the authority of the monarch may vary from restricted and largely symbolic (constitutio ...
, the
church Church may refer to: Religion * Church (building), a place/building for Christian religious activities and praying * Church (congregation), a local congregation of a Christian denomination * Church service, a formalized period of Christian comm ...
, and commercial prosperity.A table posted at the Saint-Chamond town hall lists all the mayors of this commune since January 1792, without interruption. He does not appear on it. So, contrary to what some sources claim, he was never mayor of Saint-Chamond. From 1829 to 1831, he was elected mayor of
Izieu Izieu () is a commune in the Ain department in eastern France. It lies on the river Rhône, between the cities of Lyon and Chambéry. The Commune is famous for the 1944 abduction by the Nazis of the children and staff from the Izieu orphan ...
x. His work was honored with many distinctions. In 1814, he received the decoration of the Lily.On 27 August 1814
Saint-Chamond St Chamond may refer to: * Saint Chamond otherwise Annemund, bishop of Lyon * Saint-Chamond, Loire, a French town named after him * Saint-Chamond (manufacturer), informal name for the ''Compagnie des forges et aciéries de la marine et d'Homéco ...
's town council requested the
King King is a royal title given to a male monarch. A king is an Absolute monarchy, absolute monarch if he holds unrestricted Government, governmental power or exercises full sovereignty over a nation. Conversely, he is a Constitutional monarchy, ...
's blessing and the decoration of the Lily. These are described as a distinctive sign that honors friends of the Bourbon throne. The municipal council recalls the industries, morals and attachment of the commune to a religious practice inherited from the ancients and never denied (despite the revolutionary turmoil).
On 20 December 1831 he was made a Knight of the Royal Order of the Legion of Honor.Opposite, his signature in the Légion d'honneur file. In 1839, French industrialists awarded his company a silver medal at the Exposition des Produits de l'Industrie Française in Paris. This was awarded not simply for the products exhibited, but for the work accomplished as a whole. It concluded: "Twenty-five to thirty years ago, Saint-Chamond delivered thirty thousand francs' worth of laces to the trade, now it delivers more than two million francs' worth". In 1839, Richard-Chambovet relinquished his business to his three sons, who adopted "Richard Frères" as their corporate name. Finally, his death was declared on 16 April 1851 by his eldest son, who planned to have him buried in
Lyon Lyon (Franco-Provençal: ''Liyon'') is a city in France. It is located at the confluence of the rivers Rhône and Saône, to the northwest of the French Alps, southeast of Paris, north of Marseille, southwest of Geneva, Switzerland, north ...
.Charles-François Richard - known as Richard-Chambovet - is not buried in the family vault, which houses contemporaries and subsequent generations including his son Jean-Louis Richard(-Vitton), in the former cemetery of La Guillotière (a commune adjacent to Lyon until its amalgamation in 1852), according to a photograph of the tombstone. The eldest son retired to Château de
Montchat Montchat () is a district in the 3rd arrondissement of the French commune of Lyon. It forms the eastern part of the city. It ends on the east with a hill bordering Bron and adjoins Villeurbanne to the north. On the Montchat estate, a simple coun ...
before his father's death, and on 30 October 1865 the youngest son retired to Château du Montellier in the Ain region. Eventually, only the second son, Ennemond Richard, took over the business. In 1889, the industrialist was honored in Saint-Chamond by a road named "rue Richard-Chambovet". In 1890, when the municipality of Saint-Étienne handed over the entire Palais de la Bourse to the
Chamber of Commerce A chamber of commerce, or board of trade, is a form of business network. For example, a local organization of businesses whose goal is to further the interests of businesses. Business owners in towns and cities form these local societies to a ...
, the latter undertook several decoration projects, including busts of Richard-Chambovet, which were donated by the families.
Félix Thiollier Félix Thiollier (28 June 1842, Saint Étienne – 12 May 1914, Saint Étienne) was a French industrialist, writer, art collector and photographer. His father, Claude Auguste, was a ribbon maker. In 1857, he started a ribbon company in Saint Ét ...
produced heliogravures of these busts.The complete Richard-Chambovet heliogravure by Félix Thiollier can be seen here on Wikimedia Commons. Later, his brother made a presentation on the subject to the aforementioned Chamber. This presentation, printed in 1894, devoted a chapter to Richard-Chambovet.


Silk industrialist


Moulinier

In 1790 and 1791, Richard was an apprentice miller.He then learned to "twist or spin silk aw silk, to make it strong,with a sort of mill equipped with bobbins and spindles". In 1792 and 1793, he was employed by a
ribbon A ribbon or riband is a thin band of material, typically cloth but also plastic or sometimes metal, used primarily as decorative binding and tying. Cloth ribbons are made of natural materials such as silk, cotton, and jute and of synthetic mate ...
manufacturer in Saint-Étienne. The French Revolution then took him on a three-year military tour. On his return, he found a position as a miller in Saint-Chamond, with a man named Coron.


Passmentier

In May 1797, he set up shop as a manufacturer of
passementerie Passementerie (, ) or passementarie is the art of making elaborate trimmings or edgings (in French, ) of applied braid, gold or silver cord, embroidery, colored silk, or beads for clothing or furnishings. Styles of passementerie include the tass ...
and padous, which were used to trim garments.Padou is a "woven
ribbon A ribbon or riband is a thin band of material, typically cloth but also plastic or sometimes metal, used primarily as decorative binding and tying. Cloth ribbons are made of natural materials such as silk, cotton, and jute and of synthetic mate ...
made of half thread and half silk".
They are also used to tie men's hair into catanogans, and to lace shoes. For optimum production, Richard bought many Zurich-style looms Ribbon mills in the
Basel Basel ( ; ), also known as Basle ( ), ; ; ; . is a city in northwestern Switzerland on the river Rhine (at the transition from the High Rhine, High to the Upper Rhine). Basel is Switzerland's List of cities in Switzerland, third-most-populo ...
region - like those in Krefeld, Germany - are competitors to those in
Saint-Étienne Saint-Étienne (; Franco-Provençal: ''Sant-Etiève''), also written St. Etienne, is a city and the prefecture of the Loire département, in eastern-central France, in the Massif Central, southwest of Lyon, in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes regi ...
, which is why French manufacturers are keeping a close eye on their technical developments.
A multi-spindle loom was developed by a mechanic from
Zurich Zurich (; ) is the list of cities in Switzerland, largest city in Switzerland and the capital of the canton of Zurich. It is in north-central Switzerland, at the northwestern tip of Lake Zurich. , the municipality had 448,664 inhabitants. The ...
. Thus "it was from the village of
Aiche The American Institute of Chemical Engineers (AIChE) is a professional organization for chemical engineers. AIChE was established in 1908 to distinguish chemical engineers as professionals independent of chemists and mechanical engineers. Curr ...
Basle">Basel.html" ;"title="bout 14 km from Basel">Basle in Switzerland, that the first 'bar loom' came out, allowing several
ribbon A ribbon or riband is a thin band of material, typically cloth but also plastic or sometimes metal, used primarily as decorative binding and tying. Cloth ribbons are made of natural materials such as silk, cotton, and jute and of synthetic mate ...
s to be woven at once. It was called the "Zurich loom".
capable of weaving twelve to twenty-four at a time, depending on the width required: he installed these machines in
Saint-Chamond St Chamond may refer to: * Saint Chamond otherwise Annemund, bishop of Lyon * Saint-Chamond, Loire, a French town named after him * Saint-Chamond (manufacturer), informal name for the ''Compagnie des forges et aciéries de la marine et d'Homéco ...
. He also manufactured sewing silks.Sewing silks" are "silk threads for sewing". In 1799, the Army of Italy began the Italian campaign against the
Second Coalition The War of the Second Coalition () (1798/9 – 1801/2, depending on periodisation) was the second war targeting revolutionary France by many European monarchies, led by Britain, Austria, and Russia and including the Ottoman Empire, Portugal, ...
, with setbacks that caused the already bloodless French state to lose the few territorial conquests that were barely holding it together. In the economic doldrums of the Directoire The Directory (also called Directorate; ) was the system of government established by the French Constitution of 1795. It takes its name from the committee of 5 men vested with executive power. The Directory governed the French First Republ ...
period, Richard-Chambovet was ruined for the first time. However, he resumed his activities just as the coup d'état of 18 Brumaire brought economic recovery. It was then that he had to contend with Lyon's industry, which, out of protectionism, forbade dyers and chevilleursThe chevilleur is "the person who prepares raw silk for manufacturers and merchants. from working for Saint-Chamond's sewing silk manufacturers, and with fashion, which definitively adopted short hair and abandoned
culottes Culottes are an item of clothing worn on the lower half of the body. The term can refer to either split skirts, historical men's breeches, or women's underpants; this is an example of fashion-industry words taken from designs across history, ...
in favor of pants, rendering padous useless. In 1804, for the second time, he went bankrupt.


Laces manufacturer


''Conservatoire des arts et métiers''

Against this backdrop, Richard-Chambovet seemed discouraged. As Félix Thiollier">Thiollier states in his 1894 biographical note: "His family possesses letters written by him at this time, in which he declares that if he were not married, he would immediately return to service to seek glory or death". He then investigated whether there was a way to increase the production of foil gansesThe foil is a "species of thread made from the coarsest silk material". from the low heddle loomsLoom, Healds are the "moving parts of a weaving loom, by means of which and [with] treadles the warp threads of a fabric are opened to pass the shuttle and consequently the weft thread. ..When the warp is horizontal, all the weft threads are also in the same horizontal plane, which makes the low heddle; and, if the warp is vertical, the weft threads also form a vertical plane, hence the high heddle". at Saint-Martin-en-Coailleux.The communes of Saint-Martin-en-Coailleux and Saint-Chamond adjoined intimately before merging on 14 March 1964 to form the "greater" Saint-Chamond. The idea was to use these looms to make flat laces, like those imported from
Germany Germany, officially the Federal Republic of Germany, is a country in Central Europe. It lies between the Baltic Sea and the North Sea to the north and the Alps to the south. Its sixteen States of Germany, constituent states have a total popu ...
. But he gave up and thought of going to Germany. He recalled an article in the Journal des Débats - which on 15 July 1805 became the ''Journal de l'Empire''- describing the
lace Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is split into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted o ...
industry in the
Duchy of Berg Berg () was a state—originally a county, later a duchy—in the Rhineland of Germany. Its capital was Düsseldorf. It existed as a distinct political entity from the early 12th to the 19th centuries. It was a member state of the Holy Roman Emp ...
.In Germany, belonging to the Duchy of Berg, lies Krefeld, one of the two towns competing with the Saint-Etienne region for ribbon manufacturing -the other being Basel in Switzerland. It is subject to technical supervision by French manufacturers. It states that "laces were made on certain looms operated by a single person, and that each loom produced around a hundred
ell An ell (from Proto-Germanic *''alinō'', cognate with Latin ''ulna'') is a northwestern European unit of measurement, originally understood as a cubit (the combined length of the forearm and extended hand). The word literally means "arm", an ...
s of laces each day".The article recounted by Charles-François Richard is probably from the Journal de l'Empire -formerly Journal des débats et des décrets - of 17 January 1806. It states "Duchy of Berg ..In Elverfeld, 150 silk
ooms Ooms is a Dutch-language surname, derived from the word ''oom'', meaning uncle. An alternative origin may be the given name "Omaar"... a lace-making machine produces a thousand aunes per hour Since May 1802, the ''
Musée des Arts et Métiers The Musée des Arts et Métiers (; English: Museum of Arts and Crafts) is an industrial design museum in Paris that houses the collection of the Conservatoire national des arts et métiers, which was founded in 1794 as a repository for the preser ...
'' has been open to the public.The Conservatoire des arts et métiers was created by the law of 22 prairial an VI (10 June 1798). Machines that seemed worthy of interest were grouped together and exhibited in a single location. Demonstrators explain how the many machines on display work. In January 1807, Richard-Chambovet went to Paris and asked Joseph de Montgolfier, a native of Vidalon-lès-Annonay - only 10 km from his birthplace - and demonstrator,Demonstrator, i.e. teacher giving practical demonstrations. The director or chief administrator was Claude-Pierre Molard if there were any lace looms on deposit at the Conservatoire. His son led him into a room. Among the looms on display, he noticed one made of wood with thirteen spindles, one of whose characteristics was that it stopped as soon as a thread broke: it was most likely that of Jean-Éléonor Perrault.Perrault's first name is deduced from the 1837 "Notice sur l'arrondissement de Lisieux", which classifies him as a merchant-
worker Worker may refer to: * Worker, a person who performs work for a living * Laborer, a person who performs unskilled physical labour, especially in construction * Worker, a member of the working class * Worker, a member of the workforce ** Designati ...
- i.e., a "cotton spinner" as distinct from a "cotton lace maker" - in Mesnil-Guillaume and from the article "Les moulins de l'Orbiquet", which mentions the authorization granted to Jean-Éléonor Perrault to set up a cotton spinning mill in Mesnil-Guillaume in 1813.
Louis-Joseph Gras believes that Perrault was more active in Laigle (
Orne Orne (; or ) is a département in the northwest of France, named after the river Orne. It had a population of 279,942 in 2019.Lisieux Lisieux () is a Communes of France, commune in the Calvados (department), Calvados Departments of France, department in the Normandy (administrative region), Normandy Regions of France, region in northwestern France. It is the capital of the Pa ...
(
Calvados Calvados (, , ) is a brandy from Normandy in France, made from apples and/or pears. History In France Apple orchards and brewers are mentioned as far back as the 8th century by Charlemagne. The first known record of Norman distillation was ma ...
). Both locations are correct, according to Jean-Éléonor Perrault, who contributed to a "Notice sur l'arrondissement de Lisieux" in 1837. He wrote: "M. François-Michel Perrault, from Naufle, near Laigle, was the first to import lace looms into France. These looms were made of iron and came from Germany. His son, M. Jean-Éléonor Perrault, a merchant in
Lisieux Lisieux () is a Communes of France, commune in the Calvados (department), Calvados Departments of France, department in the Normandy (administrative region), Normandy Regions of France, region in northwestern France. It is the capital of the Pa ...
, invented the wooden looms used today. He registered the model at the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris.
On 7 February 1784 letters patent were granted to Perrault for his wooden loom, built by improving a German iron model. It was officially deposited at the Hôtel de Mortagne in 1785, before moving to the
Musée des Arts et Métiers The Musée des Arts et Métiers (; English: Museum of Arts and Crafts) is an industrial design museum in Paris that houses the collection of the Conservatoire national des arts et métiers, which was founded in 1794 as a repository for the preser ...
.
Upon inquiry, Joseph de Montgolfier indicated that, for Paris, three examples had been built from fir planks to occupy the children of a charity organization. Since they never made a profit, they were sold to a reseller, who can be contacted to purchase them. Richard-Chambovet tracked down this secondhand dealer, bought his three examples for 390
francs The franc is any of various units of currency. One franc is typically divided into 100 centimes. The name is said to derive from the Latin inscription ''francorum rex'' ( King of the Franks) used on early French coins and until the 18th centur ...
(ten francs a spindle), and acquired a hand-operated
merry-go-round A carousel or carrousel (mainly North American English), merry-go-round (International English), or galloper (British English) is a type of amusement ride consisting of a rotating circular platform with seats for riders. The seats are tradit ...
. Transport to Saint-Chamond and installation cost him 200 francs. Later, he recalled these 600 francs alone to launch the lace factory in Saint-Chamond.


Improving Perrault's craft

Richard-Chambovet studied and improved the mechanism of the Perrault loom, which he installed in the Terrasson
mill Mill may refer to: Science and technology * Factory * Mill (grinding) * Milling (machining) * Millwork * Paper mill * Steel mill, a factory for the manufacture of steel * Sugarcane mill * Textile mill * List of types of mill * Mill, the arithmetic ...
(now rue du Béal in Saint-Chamond).Another source states: "Near the Saint-Pierre mills" He orders the manufacture of other looms. A manufacturer from Paris, James Collier, whose prices were too high, was rejected in favor of Jean-Éléonor Perrault. According to Richard-Chambovet, before the business closed, this family was a shoelace manufacturer based in Lisieux (
Calvados Calvados (, , ) is a brandy from Normandy in France, made from apples and/or pears. History In France Apple orchards and brewers are mentioned as far back as the 8th century by Charlemagne. The first known record of Norman distillation was ma ...
). These orders were probably filled by the inventor of the basic model. In Saint-Chamond, "he nitiallyexperienced great difficulties in selling his products"; in 1808, seven other looms were added to the first ones, then ten more in 1809. He acquired the Granjon factory (place Saint-Jean in Saint-Chamond) to install thirty-nine new looms in 1810,Another source indicates that he set up "thirty-seven other looms in half the Montagnier factory, whose premises he had just rented on Place Saint-Jean". then twenty-five more in 1811. These looms cost him a total of twenty-one thousand francs. This was to create emulators and, in 1813, the first competing company arose: that of M. Hervier-Charrin et Cie. Then Mr. Motiron, an employee of Richard-Chambovet, set up a second factory, and Mr. Tamet, a bookkeeper with Mr. Hervier, created a third. According to an 1812 inventory by Philippe Hedde, there were one hundred and ten looms in Saint-Chamond, eighty-two of which belonged to Richard-Chambovet alone.


Steam engine

In 1813, Richard-Chambovet acquired the gardens of the former Dutreyve dye works in La Vignette, which included a waterfall, for twenty thousand francs. He installed seventy new trades there, but the fickle flow of water limited his expansion. To remedy periods of frost and drought, Richard-Chambovet had Mr. Crépu build the first
steam engine A steam engine is a heat engine that performs Work (physics), mechanical work using steam as its working fluid. The steam engine uses the force produced by steam pressure to push a piston back and forth inside a Cylinder (locomotive), cyl ...
in the
Loire The Loire ( , , ; ; ; ; ) is the longest river in France and the 171st longest in the world. With a length of , it drains , more than a fifth of France's land, while its average discharge is only half that of the Rhône. It rises in the so ...
department in Lyon that was not intended for a mine.The first and few machines installed for mining were of English origin. The one at Richard-Chambovet was built in Lyon by an English prisoner in the service of Mr Crépu, a mechanic. The ''Almanach du commerce de Paris'' points out that, at the time, "it was the first steam engine in France without a condenser". This high-pressure steam engine, whose boiler was chosen by its sponsor from sheet metal rather than cast iron, developed twelve horsepower.According to Alphonse Peyret, this machine is rated at six horsepower. Richard-Chambovet justifies it as follows: "This driving force is more expensive, it's true, than a waterfall; but the extra expense is well offset by the regularity of the movement, which is not interrupted by seasonal variations". According to one of his handwritten notes, the machine was set in motion in 1816, although the prefectoral authorization to establish it was formally obtained on 3 March 1817. This machine was able to drive "two hundred and forty lace looms, offering a resistance of one thousand two hundred kilograms, covering sixty meters per minute". Richard-Chambovet spent 150,000
francs The franc is any of various units of currency. One franc is typically divided into 100 centimes. The name is said to derive from the Latin inscription ''francorum rex'' ( King of the Franks) used on early French coins and until the 18th centur ...
at La Vignette to install 300 looms. Then, in 1819, he bought the
Izieu Izieu () is a commune in the Ain department in eastern France. It lies on the river Rhône, between the cities of Lyon and Chambéry. The Commune is famous for the 1944 abduction by the Nazis of the children and staff from the Izieu orphan ...
x mills from his loom manufacturer Perrault. These mills, which benefited from all the waters of the Gier and a ten-meter waterfall, enabled him to set up a large factory. He spent 300,000 francs on the installation. In 1828, a new sixteen-horsepower steam engine, built by M. Imbert, a mechanic from
Rive-de-Gier Rive-de-Gier (, literally ''Bank of Gier (river), Gier''; ) is a Communes of the Loire department, commune in the Loire (department), Loire Departments of France, department in central France. In 2020, with a population of 15,086 inhabitants and ...
, was installed. Richard-Chambovet's business had grown considerably: "all the looms are made in his workshops; the raw material undergoes all the preparations without leaving his premises.
Cotton Cotton (), first recorded in ancient India, is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants of the genus '' Gossypium'' in the mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost pure ...
is
spun ''Spun'' is a 2002 American black comedy crime drama film directed by Jonas Åkerlund from an original screenplay by William De Los Santos and Creighton Vero, based on three days of De Los Santos's life in the Eugene, Oregon drug subculture. I ...
, milled,
bleached Bleached is an American pop band consisting of sisters Jennifer and Jessica Clavin, formerly of Mika Miko. The band plays a style of rock, pop, rock and roll, and indie rock. Bleached was established in Los Angeles in 2011. The group has relea ...
,
dyed Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers, yarns, and fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color fastness. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular ch ...
, laced, calendered and folded.The cotton is passed through a "machine used for pressing". The same applies to silks and foils. This opened the way first to four competitors, then in 1822 to one of his employees setting up on his own, and in 1824 to eight entrepreneurs. Statistics covering the towns of Saint-Étienne and Saint-Chamond show that in 1824, there were 2,200 trades, 800 of which belonged to Richard-Chambovet. He alone employed 300 workers. Among the most notable technical features were the fact that the looms were independent of each other, and could be stopped individually if a thread broke, and that production could be increased by a third by working at night. The total value of raw materials consumed annually was 1,100,000 francs and doubled once all stages of production had been completed. At the time, this expansion in shoelace manufacture was because, according to a technological dictionary of the time, "it is a haberdashery item of fairly wide consumption. Women used silk laces to fasten their
corset A corset /ˈkɔːrsɪt/ is a support garment worn to constrict the torso into the desired shape and Posture correction, posture. They are traditionally constructed out of fabric with boning made of Baleen, whalebone or steel, a stiff panel in th ...
s and other garments. Linen, hemp, and cotton thread laces are used for the same purpose, but they are also used, instead of string, for ligatures". In 1830, Philippe Hedde noted that "the competition that has arisen between the various factories of Saint-Étienne and Saint-Chamond has reduced the sale of laces to the smallest profit, but this has resulted in a great advantage for export, to the detriment of factories in
Germany Germany, officially the Federal Republic of Germany, is a country in Central Europe. It lies between the Baltic Sea and the North Sea to the north and the Alps to the south. Its sixteen States of Germany, constituent states have a total popu ...
, which can no longer compete on price. Saint-Chamond and Saint-Étienne supply
Amsterdam Amsterdam ( , ; ; ) is the capital of the Netherlands, capital and Municipalities of the Netherlands, largest city of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. It has a population of 933,680 in June 2024 within the city proper, 1,457,018 in the City Re ...
,
Brussels Brussels, officially the Brussels-Capital Region, (All text and all but one graphic show the English name as Brussels-Capital Region.) is a Communities, regions and language areas of Belgium#Regions, region of Belgium comprising #Municipalit ...
,
Leipzig Leipzig (, ; ; Upper Saxon: ; ) is the most populous city in the States of Germany, German state of Saxony. The city has a population of 628,718 inhabitants as of 2023. It is the List of cities in Germany by population, eighth-largest city in Ge ...
,
Antwerp Antwerp (; ; ) is a City status in Belgium, city and a Municipalities of Belgium, municipality in the Flemish Region of Belgium. It is the capital and largest city of Antwerp Province, and the third-largest city in Belgium by area at , after ...
,
Milan Milan ( , , ; ) is a city in northern Italy, regional capital of Lombardy, the largest city in Italy by urban area and the List of cities in Italy, second-most-populous city proper in Italy after Rome. The city proper has a population of nea ...
, a few cantons in Switzerland and the two Americas. After detailing the performance of the Richard-Chambovet factory, he continues: "No foreign competition is to be feared today for a factory that has succeeded in bringing order and economy in its workforce to such a degree of perfection".


Calorifier

Richard-Chambovet and his son Ennemond Richard joined forces after a year's stay in England. They operated under the name of MM. Richard-Chambovet et compagnie. In 1830, they perfected cast-iron milling machines acquired in England. Output was further increased: spindles were increased from 1,000 to 3,000 revolutions per minute while requiring less motive power. In 1831, the characteristics of innovative calorifiers installed at the Izieux plant were reported. A "six-beehive calorifier", fuelled by
coal Coal is a combustible black or brownish-black sedimentary rock, formed as rock strata called coal seams. Coal is mostly carbon with variable amounts of other Chemical element, elements, chiefly hydrogen, sulfur, oxygen, and nitrogen. Coal i ...
, replaced six
stove A stove or range is a device that generates heat inside or on top of the device, for - local heating or cooking. Stoves can be powered with many fuels, such as natural gas, electricity, gasoline, wood, and coal. Due to concerns about air pollu ...
s very economically. The even heat prevents the oil from freezing on the looms far from the stoves. The elimination of draughts puts an end to unpleasant odors from the stoves, oils, and gut ropes used to power the looms. The fumes that discolored the silks disappeared. The worker's hands, which no longer have to maintain the stoves, are no longer blackened or chapped by washing; they can handle the silk fabrics without loss. The general temperature is ten degrees Réaumur (or 12.5 degrees
Celsius The degree Celsius is the unit of temperature on the Celsius temperature scale "Celsius temperature scale, also called centigrade temperature scale, scale based on 0 ° for the melting point of water and 100 ° for the boiling point ...
), but is modulated in each workshop to best preserve the silk. The rapporteur points out that this calorifier can also be installed in any building under construction: hospitals, collective or individual housing, etc. It's easy to downsize, as in the Izieux plant, which also has a two-fire calorifier.


Gas lighting

In 1833,
gas lighting Gas lighting is the production of artificial light from combustion of a fuel gas such as methane, propane, butane, acetylene, ethylene, hydrogen, carbon monoxide, coal gas (town gas) or natural gas. The light is produced either directly by ...
was installed at the Izieux factory, well before Saint-Étienne and Lyon were equipped. In 1836, "two hundred and sixteen
nozzles A nozzle is a device designed to control the direction or characteristics of a fluid flow (specially to increase velocity) as it exits (or enters) an enclosed chamber or pipe. A nozzle is often a pipe or tube of varying cross sectional area, ...
were in operation, enabling workers to work day and night, with replacements at midday and midnight". In 1833, along with the looms already in use, the factory produced "round elastic laces" for the first time in the Saint-Étienne district, with each rubber thread covered in silk or thread, followed by "flat elastic laces" of variable width. In 1833, the company was still as active as ever, as evidenced by the filing of two patents: one "for the improvement brought to lace looms and its application to the manufacture of cannetilles",A cannetille is a "small, very fine, twisted blade of gold or silver". and the other for "improvements to lace looms". In 1835, the price of a kilogram of cotton laces was only eight francs and fifty centimes, three times less than ten years earlier. This industrialization led to the following statement: "The lace industry only developed under the
Empire An empire is a political unit made up of several territories, military outpost (military), outposts, and peoples, "usually created by conquest, and divided between a hegemony, dominant center and subordinate peripheries". The center of the ...
, in Saint-Chamond, which acquired a virtual monopoly". The industry's influence is cited as an example: "Manufacturers in Saint-Chamond established vast networks that went far beyond the national framework, reaching out to continental horizons and, in some cases, even worldwide".


Circumstances

Charles-François Richard evolved at the start of the
Industrial Revolution The Industrial Revolution, sometimes divided into the First Industrial Revolution and Second Industrial Revolution, was a transitional period of the global economy toward more widespread, efficient and stable manufacturing processes, succee ...
, and his stubbornness and innovative spirit made him a key player. He supported the idea that "great men are conditioned by general circumstances ..They can only act by the exceptional firmness of their character". He is at the origin of Europe's primacy in the lace industry. Certainly, when Isidore Hedde, a contemporary, visited the "Celestial Empire" from 1843 to 1846, he asserted that "the Chinese were making laces, cordonnets,
galloon Galloon (sometimes spelled galon in British English) is a heavily-decorated woven or braided trim, typically made of, or featuring, gold or silver thread, which may be woven or embroidered. Galloon trim is used in the trim of military and poli ...
s, ganses, padoux, etc. long before the Europeans did". However, as in other fields, they did not pass on this know-how. This enabled historian and economist Jean-Charles Asselain to assert in the 20th century that "
Song China The Song dynasty ( ) was an imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 960 to 1279. The dynasty was founded by Emperor Taizu of Song, who usurped the throne of the Later Zhou dynasty and went on to conquer the rest of the Ten Kingdoms, ending ...
(960-1279) was undeniably richer than the Europe of its time. ..However, the result was never a cumulative process comparable to that of the industrial revolution, and the momentum had already largely subsided when China closed itself off from relations with the outside world in the 15th century". It wasn't until the start of the Industrial Revolution that Richard, and thus Europe, produced lace looms, developing a patent by the Englishman Thomas Walford in 1748, albeit with incomplete indications. In 1750, probably inspired by the English patent, a braiding loom was developed in Germany by Bockmühl, at
Barmen Barmen is a former industrial metropolis of the region of Bergisches Land, Germany, which merged with four other towns in 1929 to form the city of Wuppertal. Barmen, together with the neighbouring town of Elberfeld founded the first electric ...
in the
Wupper The Wupper () is a right tributary of the Rhine in the state of North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany. Rising near Marienheide in western Sauerland it runs through the mountainous region of the Bergisches Land in Berg County and enters the Rhine at Le ...
valley. After further refinements, the shuttle stops when a thread breaks; this loom is driven by hydraulic power. However, the efficiency of this type of machine was inadequate due to its design. In 1783, François-Michel Perrault imported an iron model to France from
Elberfeld Elberfeld is a municipal subdivision of the Germany, German city of Wuppertal; it was an independent town until 1929. History The first official mentioning of the geographic area on the banks of today's Wupper River as "''elverfelde''" was ...
-about 5 km from Barmen- still in the
Duchy of Berg Berg () was a state—originally a county, later a duchy—in the Rhineland of Germany. Its capital was Düsseldorf. It existed as a distinct political entity from the early 12th to the 19th centuries. It was a member state of the Holy Roman Emp ...
. Then his son, Jean-Éléonor, submitted an improved wooden model to Jean-François de Tolozan's office, for which he obtained a privilege in 1784. This is most likely the loom that attracted Charles-François Richard's attention. On the one hand, the characteristics of the loom observed at the
Musée des arts et métiers The Musée des Arts et Métiers (; English: Museum of Arts and Crafts) is an industrial design museum in Paris that houses the collection of the Conservatoire national des arts et métiers, which was founded in 1794 as a repository for the preser ...
and those built by Jean-Éléonor Perrault make the builder also its inventor. On the other hand, the similarity of the prices with those later charged to Richard-Chambovet for loom construction makes the same. However, the Richard family never specifies this link. A known
enmity An enemy or a foe is an individual or a group that is considered as forcefully adverse or threatening. The concept of an enemy has been observed to be "basic for both individuals and communities". The term "enemy" serves the social function of d ...
had developed between the family and Perrault fils. In 1942, this loom is still referenced in the latest series of Conservatoire catalogs, which testifies to its importance. Thus Charles-François Richard "created a hitherto unknown industry by importing the mechanically operated spindle loom and gradually increasing its tooling and manufacture".


Bibliography


Primary sources

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Secondary sources

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Notes


References


See also

*
Saint-Chamond, Loire Saint-Chamond () is a commune in the Loire department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region in central France. Situated 13 km northeast of the city of Saint-Étienne and 50 km southwest of Lyon, the town dates back to the Roman period. ...
*
Shoelaces Shoelaces, also called shoestrings (US English) or bootlaces (UK English), are a system commonly used to secure shoes, boots, and other footwear. They typically consist of a pair of strings or cords, one for each shoe, finished off at both e ...
{{DEFAULTSORT:Richard, Charles-François 1772 births 1851 deaths Lace Industrial Revolution History of the textile industry Knights of the Legion of Honour