Building Of The Patriarchate, Belgrade
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The Building of the Patriarchate () is a building in
Belgrade Belgrade is the Capital city, capital and List of cities in Serbia, largest city of Serbia. It is located at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers and at the crossroads of the Pannonian Basin, Pannonian Plain and the Balkan Peninsula. T ...
, the capital of
Serbia , image_flag = Flag of Serbia.svg , national_motto = , image_coat = Coat of arms of Serbia.svg , national_anthem = () , image_map = , map_caption = Location of Serbia (gree ...
. It is the administrative seat of the
Serbian Orthodox Church The Serbian Orthodox Church ( sr-Cyrl-Latn, Српска православна црква, Srpska pravoslavna crkva) is one of the autocephalous (ecclesiastically independent) Eastern Orthodoxy, Eastern Orthodox Eastern Orthodox Church#Constit ...
and its head, the
Patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox Church This is a list of heads of the Serbian Orthodox Church, since the establishment of the church as an autocephalous archbishopric in 1219 to today's patriarchate. The list includes all the archbishops and patriarchs that led the Serbian Orthod ...
. Finished in 1935, the building was declared a
cultural monument A national heritage site is a heritage site having a value that has been registered by a governmental agency as being of national importance to the cultural heritage or history of that country. Usually such sites are listed in a heritage registe ...
on 18 December 1984.Cultural monuments in Serbia - Building of the Patriarchate
/ref>


Location

The building is located in the neighborhood of
Kosančićev Venac Kosančićev Venac ( sr-Cyrl, Косанчићев Венац) is an urban neighborhood of Belgrade, the capital of Serbia. It is located in Belgrade's municipality of Stari Grad. It has been described as the most valuable and most representativ ...
, formerly known as Varoš Kapija, in the municipality of Stari Grad. It is bounded by the streets of ''Kosančićev Venac'' on the west, ''Kneza Sime Markovića'' on the east and ''Kralja Petra'' on the south, occupying the majority of the block formed by these streets. Being located in the oldest part of Belgrade outside of the
Belgrade Fortress The Belgrade Fortress ( sr-Cyrl, Београдска тврђава, Beogradska tvrđava, Hungarian: Nándorfehérvár), consists of the old citadel (Upper and Lower Town) and Kalemegdan Park (Large and Little Kalemegdan) on the confluence of th ...
, the building is surrounded by many historical and important edifices and localities: Belgrade Fortress and
Kalemegdan Park The Kalemegdan Park (), or simply Kalemegdan ( sr-Cyrl, Калемегдан) is the largest park and the most important historical monument in Belgrade. It is located on a cliff, at the junction of the River Sava and the Danube. Kalemegdan Pa ...
on the north,
University of Arts in Belgrade The University of Arts in Belgrade ( sr-cyr, Универзитет уметности у Београду, Univerzitet umetnosti u Beogradu) is a public university in Serbia. It was founded in 1957 as the Academy of Arts to unite four academies. ...
, Park Mihailo Petrović Alas, Mika Alas's House, the
Sava The Sava, is a river in Central Europe, Central and Southeast Europe, a right-bank and the longest tributary of the Danube. From its source in Slovenia it flows through Croatia and along its border with Bosnia and Herzegovina, and finally reac ...
river and the historical district of
Savamala Savamala ( sr-Cyrl, Савамала) is an urban neighborhood of Belgrade, the capital of Serbia. It is located in Belgrade's municipalities of Savski Venac and Stari Grad. Location Savamala is located south of the Kalemegdan fortress and t ...
on the west, Faculty of Applied Arts and
Princess Ljubica's Residence The Residence of Princess Ljubica () is a palace located in Belgrade, Serbia. History The palace was used for living until 1829, but taking into consideration its age and state Prince Miloš Obrenović had decided to build another residence in ...
on the south, St. Michael's Cathedral and kafana ?, the oldest, still functioning
kafana Kafana is a type of local coffeehouse, bistro or tavern, common in the countries of Southeast Europe, which originally served coffee and other warm drinks while today usually also offer alcoholic beverages and food. Many kafanas feature live mus ...
in Belgrade, on the east. The official address of the building is 6 ''Kneza Sime Markovića'' Street.


History


Metropolis building

The lot on which the building stands today was bought by the Serbian state in 1818. One of the konaks of Prince
Miloš Obrenović Miloš Obrenović (; ; 18 March 1780 or 1783 – 26 September 1860) born Miloš Teodorović (; ), also known as Miloš the Great () was the Prince of Serbia twice, from 1815 to 1839, and from 1858 to 1860. He was an eminent figure of the Firs ...
was located there. The building which was the seat of the Metropolis of Belgrade and Karlovci was built in 1863. It was a one-storey building, with simplified and reduced ornaments on the façade. Though modest in terms of architectural value, it was important historically. Before it was demolished to make room for the new building, Patriarch Varnava commissioned the painter
Kosta Hakman Kosta Hakman ( sr-Cyrl, Коста Хакман; 22 May 1899 – 9 December 1961) was a Yugoslav and Bosnia and Herzegovina painter. Early life Hakman was born in 1899 in Bosanska Krupa, the third child of local judge Mihailo Hakman, who de ...
to paint the edifice. Hakman made two paintings in 1933, one of the central building and another of a small auxiliary kitchen object. Popular myth at the time claimed that in the kitchen object, the severed head of
Karađorđe Đorđe Petrović (; ;  – ), known by the sobriquet Karađorđe (; ), was a Serbian revolutionary leader who led a struggle against the Ottoman Empire during the First Serbian Uprising. He held the title of Grand Vožd of Serbia from 14 ...
was kept in 1817, before Miloš Obrenović sent it to
Istanbul Istanbul is the List of largest cities and towns in Turkey, largest city in Turkey, constituting the country's economic, cultural, and historical heart. With Demographics of Istanbul, a population over , it is home to 18% of the Demographics ...
. The paintings are kept in the Museum of the Patriarchate at the Patriarchate Court in
Sremski Karlovci Sremski Karlovci ( sr-Cyrl, Сремски Карловци, ) is a town and municipality located in the South Bačka Districtautonomous province of Vojvodina, Serbia. It is situated on the banks of the Danube, from Novi Sad. According to the 202 ...
.


Origin

Serbian Orthodox Church adopted the new Constitution in 1930. Article 48 called for the construction of the new seat of the Patriarchate in the neighborhood of
Savinac Savinac ( sr-cyr, Савинац) is an List of Belgrade neighborhoods, urban neighborhood of Belgrade, the capital of Serbia. It is located in Belgrade's municipality of Vračar. Location Savinac is located in the western part of the municipa ...
, on the
Vračar Vračar ( sr-Cyrl, Врачар, ) is an affluent urban area and Subdivisions of Belgrade, municipality of the city of Belgrade known as the location of many embassies and museums. According to the 2022 census results, the municipality has a popul ...
Plateau. In the process, the church also decided to demolish the old Metropolis building in Kosančićev Venac and build the new one. As the project on Vračar was envisioned as a monumental one, it was decided that the new Metropolis building will be constructed first. Further problem was caused by the slow and uncertain construction of the, also monumentally planned,
Church of Saint Sava The Church of Saint Sava ( sr-Cyrl, Храм Светог Саве, Hram Svetog Save, lit='The Temple of Saint Sava') is a 79 m high Serbian Orthodox church, which sits on the Vračar plateau in Belgrade, Serbia. It was planned as the bishopric ...
, which drained the largest funds, postponing the construction of other planned sacral objects. Additionally, the old Metropolis building was in bad shape anyway so it got a priority and was to serve as the temporary seat of the church until the project on Savinac is finished.


Construction

The building is a project of the Russian émigré architect Viktor Lukomski. Among other buildings, he designed the small Church of Saint Sava on Vračar, the eponymous hotel on the
Avala Avala ( sr-cyr, Авала, ) is a List of mountains in Serbia, mountain in Serbia, overlooking Belgrade. It is situated in the south-eastern corner of the city and provides a great panoramic view of Belgrade, Vojvodina and Šumadija, as the sur ...
Mountain and the Royal Palace within the Royal Compound on
Dedinje Dedinje ( sr-cyrl, Дедиње, ) is an urban neighborhood of Belgrade, the capital of Serbia. It is located in Belgrade's municipality of Savski Venac. Dedinje is generally considered the wealthiest part of Belgrade, and is the site of numero ...
. The plan was finished in 1932 when the construction began. By 1933 the old Metropolis building was demolished and the new edifice was finished in 1935. After it was completed, the government said that there is no more money left for another, monumental administrative church building, implying that the new building is quite suitable to be the seat of the entire Serbian Orthodox Church, not just one of its eparchies. Though even today one lot next to the Church of Saint Sava is reserved for the planned building, the construction never started. During the digging for the foundations, the underground corridors, or ''lagums'' were discovered. They connected the Princess Ljubica's Residence, Cathedral Church and the Metropolis building. They were dug on the orders from Prince Miloš, so that he could meet with the leaders of the church, unbeknownst to the Ottomans who ruled Serbia at the time. The ''lagums'' were used by the builders of the new edifice to conduct the heating pipes.


Architecture

The function of the building influenced the style. In his project, Lukomski adjusted the bulky
Academism Academic art, academicism, or academism, is a style of painting and sculpture produced under the influence of European academies of art. This method extended its influence throughout the Western world over several centuries, from its origins ...
to the modernized
Serbo-Byzantine Revival The Modern Serbo-Byzantine architectural style, Neo-Byzantine architectural style or Serbian national architectural style is the style in Serbian architecture which lasted from the second half of the 19th century to the first half of the 20th ce ...
style in his own, free interpretation. His solution was original, but complex and heterogeneous, as he needed to satisfy his conservative patrons. The building has a rectangular base and is solidly and sturdily built. National style is observed in the pyramidal structure of the parts of the building and their step-like placement onto each other, arches and arched niches, consoles and the details of the decoration. Academism can be seen in the disposition of the base, layout of the rooms, division of the façade in three horizontal zones, regularly shaped openings, prominence of the garlands which divide the sections of the façade and the strict use of backspace ornaments. Modernist influence of the day is evident in the simple and neutral surface of the façade and characteristic rectangular windows on the highest floor of the side wings. Due to the significant decline of the terrain, as the entire neighborhood of Kosančićev Venac is on the mass-wasting prone slope of the Sava river, the edifice has an uneven number of floors on the lateral, lengthwise sides. The interior design, though representatively shaped, has a certain austerity due to the function of the building. The basement and the ground floor are reserved for the various institutes of the Serbian Orthodox Church, offices, archives and the premises of the Spiritual Court. The entire first floor constitutes the quarters of the Patriarch. It consists of the Patriarch's apartment, cabinet, chapel, library, dining room, reception hall and apartment for the guests. On the second floor there are working offices and halls for the sessions of the various councils and the Synod. In the largest hall there is a famous painting " Migration of the Serbs" by Paja Jovanović, hanging on the wall. An annex with the apartments for the ecclesial dignitaries leans on the eastern block of the edifice. The front façade, facing the Cathedral Church, is marked by the massive
portico A portico is a porch leading to the entrance of a building, or extended as a colonnade, with a roof structure over a walkway, supported by columns or enclosed by walls. This idea was widely used in ancient Greece and has influenced many cu ...
with the decorated and arch-like portal. The portal's prominence is accentuated by the characteristic, deformed short columns, which are a common and recognizable motif of the church architecture projected by the Russian émigré architects. Two other distinctive objects on the portal are the
coat of arms A coat of arms is a heraldry, heraldic communication design, visual design on an escutcheon (heraldry), escutcheon (i.e., shield), surcoat, or tabard (the last two being outer garments), originating in Europe. The coat of arms on an escutcheon f ...
and a mosaic. The relief coat of arms of the Patriarchate was done by the sculptor Vladimir Zagorodnjuk and is located above the semicircular entrance. The composition represents two angels which are crowning the coat of arms with the episcopal mitre. On the upper section of the front façade, in the niche above the portal, there is a large, elongated mosaic representing
John the Baptist John the Baptist ( – ) was a Jewish preacher active in the area of the Jordan River in the early first century AD. He is also known as Saint John the Forerunner in Eastern Orthodoxy and Oriental Orthodoxy, John the Immerser in some Baptist ...
. It was made on the draft by the painter Vladimir Predojević. When finished, the building was praised, both by public and the press, which described it as an "imposing, magnificent edifice" and that its "simplified Neo-Byzantine style fits into the sacral area of Belgrade".


Complex


Chapel

In the inner yard, east of the building, there is a chapel dedicated to Saint Symeon the Myrrh-streaming, with the large dome above it. In the chapel there is a
woodcut Woodcut is a relief printing technique in printmaking. An artist carves an image into the surface of a block of wood—typically with gouges—leaving the printing parts level with the surface while removing the non-printing parts. Areas that ...
iconostasis In Eastern Christianity, an iconostasis () is a wall of icons and religious paintings, separating the nave from the sanctuary in a Church (building), church. ''Iconostasis'' also refers to a portable icon stand that can be placed anywhere withi ...
, made by the masters from
Ohrid Ohrid ( ) is a city in North Macedonia and is the seat of the Ohrid Municipality. It is the largest city on Lake Ohrid and the eighth-largest city in the country, with the municipality recording a population of over 42,000 inhabitants as of ...
, with the icons painted by Predojević in 1935.


Museum

The Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church is situated in the northern block of the building. Its rich collection has a significant religious, cultural and historical value. Though majority of the preparatory work has been done by the Patriarch Varnava and professor , the museum was officially open during the tenure of Patriarch Vikentije II in 1954. Bulk of the exhibits comes from the churches and monasteries in
Syrmia Syrmia (Ekavian sh-Latn-Cyrl, Srem, Срем, separator=" / " or Ijekavian sh-Latn-Cyrl, Srijem, Сријем, label=none, separator=" / ") is a region of the southern Pannonian Plain, which lies between the Danube and Sava rivers. It is div ...
and
Fruška Gora Fruška gora ( sr-Cyrl, Фрушка гора) is a mountain in Syrmia, with most of the mountain being part of Serbia and its westernmost edge extending into eastern Croatia. The Serbian part of the mountain forms the country's oldest National p ...
which were looted by the
Ustaše The Ustaše (), also known by anglicised versions Ustasha or Ustashe, was a Croats, Croatian fascist and ultranationalist organization active, as one organization, between 1929 and 1945, formally known as the Ustaša – Croatian Revolutionar ...
during the
World War II World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
. The exhibits were returned from Zagreb after the war. The collection consists of the religious paintings, portraits of the church dignitaries, old Serbian engravings, handwritten and printed srbuljas, numerous
chasuble The chasuble () is the outermost liturgical vestment worn by clergy for the celebration of the Eucharist in Western-tradition Christian churches that use full vestments, primarily in Roman Catholic, Anglican, and Lutheran churches. In the Eastern ...
s, sacral objects,
votive offering A votive offering or votive deposit is one or more objects displayed or deposited, without the intention of recovery or use, in a sacred place for religious purposes. Such items are a feature of modern and ancient societies and are generally ...
s, religious embroideries, seals, historical documents, etc. The most valuable artifacts include the rich collection of Byzantine-style icons from the period of Ottoman rule, the robe of
Prince Lazar Lazar Hrebeljanović ( sr-Cyrl, Лазар Хребељановић; – 15 June 1389) was a medieval List of Serbian monarchs, Serbian ruler who created the largest and most powerful state on the territory of the disintegrated Serbian Empir ...
with his heraldic mark on the buttons (a helmet with the ox horns), the shroud of
King Milutin Stefan Uroš II Milutin ( sr-Cyrl, Стефан Урош II Милутин, Stefan Uroš II Milutin; 1253 – 29 October 1321), known as Saint King, was the King of Serbia between 1282–1321, a member of the Nemanjić dynasty. He was one o ...
and a glass donated to the Mileševa monastery by
Ivan the Terrible Ivan IV Vasilyevich (; – ), commonly known as Ivan the Terrible,; ; monastic name: Jonah. was Grand Prince of Moscow, Grand Prince of Moscow and all Russia from 1533 to 1547, and the first Tsar of all Russia, Tsar and Grand Prince of all R ...
in 1558 (his grandmother was Serbian noble Ana Jakšić).


Library

The Library of the Patriarchate occupies the central south part of the edifice. Its collection is the oldest library in Serbia. Some of the books originate from the period of the Patriarch
Arsenije III Čarnojević Arsenije ( sr-cyr, Арсеније; ) is a Serbian language, Serbian given name, a variant of the Greek name ''Arsenios''. Diminutives of the name include ''Arsen'', ''Arsa'' and ''Arso (disambiguation), Arso''. It may refer to: *Arsenije Sremac ...
, who took them with him from the
Patriarchate of Peć Patriarchate of Peć may refer to: * Patriarchate of Peć (monastery), Eastern Orthodox Patriarchal Monastery of the Serbian Orthodox Church, near the city of Peć * Serbian Patriarchate of Peć, medieval Serbian Patriarchate, with seat in Patriarc ...
when the
Great Migrations of the Serbs The Great Migrations of the Serbs (), also known as the Great Exoduses of the Serbs, were two migrations of Serbs from various territories under the rule of the Ottoman Empire to the Kingdom of Hungary under the Habsburg monarchy. The First ...
from
Kosovo and Metohija The Autonomous Province of Kosovo and Metohija (APKM) (; ), commonly known as Kosovo (; ) and abbreviated to Kosmet (from '' Kosovo'' and '' Metohija''; ) or KiM (), is an autonomous province that occupies the southernmost corner of Serbia, ...
began in 1690.


See also

* Summer Residence of Serbian Patriarchs


Sources


Literature

* Aleksandar Kadijević, "Beogradski period rada arhitekte Viktora Viktoroviča Lukomskog (1920–1943), GGB, XLV–XLVI, Belgrade, 1998/1999,115–132. * Marko Popović, "Heraldički simboli na javnim zdanjima Beograda", Beelgrade, 1997. * Branko Vujović, "Beograd - kulturna riznica", Belgrade, 2003. * Svetozar Dušanić, "Muzej Srpske pravoslavne crkve", Belgrade, 2008. * Group of authors, "Kosančićev venac", Belgrade, 1979.


External links

{{Castles, fortresses and palaces in Serbia, state=autocollapse Cultural monuments of Serbia Serbian Orthodox church buildings in Serbia Buildings and structures in Belgrade Episcopal palaces Palaces in Serbia Neoclassical palaces in Serbia History of the Serbian Orthodox Church Office buildings in Serbia