足袋

are traditional Japanese socks worn with thonged footwear such as zori, dating back to the 15th century.

History

Japanese are usually understood today to be a kind of split-toed sock that is not meant to be worn alone outdoors, much like regular socks. However, were originally a kind of leather shoe made from a single animal hide, as evidenced by historical usage and the earlier form of the word, , written , with the kanji literally signifying "single hide".''Nihon Kokugo Daijiten'', entry for tabi available onlin
here
(in Japanese)'' Dajirin'', second edition, 1995'' Shin Meikai Kokugo Jiten'', fifth edition, 1997 As Japanese footwear evolved, also changed, with the split-toe design emerging towards the late Heian period (794–1185 CE) to allow the wearer to accommodate the thong of sandals.'' Sekai Dai Hyakka Jiten'', second edition, entry available onlin
here
(in Japanese) Outdoor versions of involved some kind of reinforcement, with soles traditionally made of cloth, leather, or straw.

Brothers Tokujirō Ishibashi and Shōjirō Ishibashi, founders of the tyre company Bridgestone, are credited with the invention of rubber-soled in 1922;''Encyclopedia Nipponica'', entry available onlin
here
(in Japanese)''Encyclopædia Britannica International'', entry available onlin
here
(in Japanese)'' Mypedia'', entry available onlin
here
(in Japanese)'' Sekai Dai Hyakka Jiten'', second edition, entry available onlin
here
(in Japanese) these are now the dominant form of outdoor , and the term generally refers to the indoor form.

Use

are worn by both men and women with traditional formal footwear such as zori, and sometimes the less-formal geta. are typically worn with clothing such as kimono. are sewn with a divided toe, in order to be worn with thonged footwear.

Historically, most people in Japan wore , as most Japanese footwear was thonged; however, some, such as upper-class courtesans and the geisha of Fukagawa, did not wear them, as the bare foot was considered to be erotic in Japanese culture. Others, such as lower-working class members of society who could not afford , either did not wear them or wore boots such as instead.

In traditional Japanese spaces and buildings, such as Noh theatres, teahouses and for traditional stage performances, must be worn, and shoes are not worn inside or on stage.

Styles

The most common color of is white, which represents purity. White are worn in formal situations such as tea ceremonies. Men sometimes will wear blue or black for traveling. Colored are also available, and are sometimes used in kabuki theatre as part of a character's costume, or are worn with more casual outfits as fashion.

Traditionally, are sewn from cloth cut to form. They are open at the back to be slipped on and have fasteners along the opening (known as ) so they can be closed. sewn from stretch material without fasteners are also available.

One distinctive style of are . Made of heavier, tougher material and often having

rubber soles, resemble boots and are outer footwear rather than socks. Like other , also have divided toes.

Modern versions

Contemporary socks—socks with a separation between the big toe and the rest of the toes—are also available. This reflects the number of people who still prefer to wear zori and geta, especially during Japan's hot, humid summers.

Modern occasionally have elastic openings instead of fasteners.

Belgian fashion house Maison Margiela has released modern boots with a separated big toe since the late 1980s-early 1990s. They can cost more than $1000 per pair. In 2023, the story of a man stealing a pair of tabi shoes from his Tinder date was amplified by TikTok and other social media sites.

A related item are toe socks, which have five separate compartments; these are known as in Japanese.

Gallery

File:Theatrical costume MET CI46.9.73ef F.jpg, alt=A pair of white cotton tabi, 1700s, Cotton , 1700s
File:Tabi (Japan, early 20th century).jpg, Cloth with ties, early 1900s
File:Japanese socks,shiro-tabi,gyoda-city,japan.JPG, Modern with hook-and-loop fasteners
File:Flip-Flops socks.jpg, Knitted stretch-on , no fasteners
File:足袋 (4846978908).jpg, Sheer
File:Tabi 足袋 (2461775040).jpg, alt=Black tabi, Woven
File:Gyoda Tabi 2020-11 ac (5).jpg, alt=Close-up photo of kohaze (metal clasps), used to fasten tabi., Close-up of
File:４．「おさえ」工程専用のミシンGyoda Tabi.jpg, Sewing the loops
File:Gyoda Tabi 2020-10 ac (2).jpg, Brightly patterned
File:Kutsu 1.JPG, Leather , Edo period (1603–1867), precursors to modern
File:Kutsu 2.JPG, with reinforced hobnailed soles, Edo period
File:Weighing a Basket in Japan (1912 by Elstner Hilton).jpg, Farmworkers wearing outdoor , 1912
File:Marathon Tabi from Idaten.jpg, Early 20th century cloth-soled boots (reconstruction of 1912 marathon )
File:Showing Off His Catch on the river in Japan (1915 by Elstner Hilton).jpg, A fisherman wearing with sewn-on woven-straw soles, 1915
File:Tabi shoes modern (margiela).png, Modern tabi boots designed by Maison Margiela

References

External links

The Museum of website


at the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences

at the University of Michigan Museum of Art

at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Maison Martin Margiela: Women's boots at the RISD Museum

{{Authority control

Samurai clothing
Socks
Japanese footwear
Japanese words and phrases