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Lachasse
Lachasse was a British couture firm operating from 1928 until 2006, making it one of the longest surviving high fashion houses in London. Part of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers (IncSoc), it is notable for being a major training ground for British couturiers, numbering Digby Morton, Hardy Amies, and Michael Donnellan among its chief designers. Later it would train further designers, with names such as Stephen Jones and John Galliano passing through the couture house as trainees on their way to successful solo careers.Jones, Stephen, ''A Personal View'', for During the heydey of couture, Lachasse's customers included Princess Marina and Countess Mountbatten. Early history of the brand Founded in 1928, Lachasse focused on the 1920s trend for sportswear. Some sources say it was established by a Mrs Philips, however the more prominent name behind the brand was Fred Shingleton. It was an offshoot of the couture house of Gray, Paulette & Shingleton – Paulette ...
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Michael Donnellan (fashion Designer)
Michael Donnellan (1915–1985) – best known as Michael of Carlos Place and simply Michael – was an Irish-born fashion designer who headed the house of Lachasse from 1941, before running a successful eponymous couture house in London from 1953 to 1971. From the 1960s on, he combined the role of couturier with consultancy to mainstream fashion houses, most notably acting as a key consultant to Marks & Spencer. His obituary of 1985 in ''The Times'' described his label as "the last great English tailoring house", saying also that Donnellan's death: "marks the end of an era". ''The Guardian'' fashion editor Alison Adburgham said he was best described as the Balenciaga of London. Early life and career Michael Donnellan was born in Dublin and trained as a surgeon before making the move from medicine to fashion. After World War II, wartime service, he joined the fashion house of Lachasse as chief designer – he was named head of its operation from 1941. In this role at Lachasse ...
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Hardy Amies
Sir Edwin Hardy Amies Knight Commander of the Royal Victorian Order, KCVO (17 July 1909 – 5 March 2003) was an English fashion designer, founder of the Hardy Amies (fashion house), Hardy Amies label and a Royal Warrant holder as designer to the Elizabeth II, Queen. Early life Hardy Amies was born Edwin Amies on 17 July 1909 in Maida Vale, London. His father was an architect for the London County Council. His mother was a saleswoman for Madame Gray at Machinka & May, London, and then Madame Durant on Dover Street, London. In his teens, he adopted his mother's maiden name, Hardy—and always cited her as the inspiration for his chosen professional path. Pre-War career Amies was educated at Brentwood School, Essex, leaving in 1927. Although his father wanted him to attend Cambridge University, it was then his ambition to become a journalist. His father relented and arranged for a meeting between his son and R. D. Blumenfeld, the editor of the ''Daily Express''. His father was mo ...
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Digby Morton
Henry Digby Morton (1906–1983) was an Irish fashion designer and among the leading names of British couture in the period from 1930-50. He was also among the pioneers of ready-to-wear fashions in the 1950s. Successful on both sides of the Atlantic, he redefined women's suits and tailoring, earned himself the moniker 'Daring Digby' for his US fashion venture and helped to establish the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, an early forerunner of the British Fashion Council. His contemporary Hardy Amies said of Morton: " isphilosophy was to transform the suit from the strict tailleur, or the ordinary country tweed suit with its straight up and down lines, uncompromising and fit only for the moors, into an intricately cut and carefully designed garment that was so fashionable that it could be worn with confidence at the Ritz". Background and early career Henry Digby Morton was born in Dublin, the son and grandson of accountants for the Guinness brewing organisati ...
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Incorporated Society Of London Fashion Designers
The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers (also known as IncSoc, Inc Soc and ISFLD) was a membership organisation founded in 1942 to promote the British fashion and textile industry and create luxury couture to sell abroad for the war effort. It aimed to build the relationship between government and fashion industry and represent the interests of London couturiers. The organisation continued after the war and sought to present itself as an alternative to the revived Paris couture industry. Establishment Some sources suggest Inc Soc was established by Harry Yoxall, managing editor of ''British Vogue'', and others indicate it was the idea of Sir Cecil Weir of the Board of Trade. Ernestine Carter states that the IncSoc had its origins in 1941 with an export collection sent to South America by the British Colour Council, designed by Charles Creed (at Fortnum & Mason), Norman Hartnell, Edward Molyneux, Digby Morton, Peter Russell, Victor Stiebel (of Jacqmar) and Worth Lond ...
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Stephen Jones (milliner)
Stephen Jones OBE (born 1957) is a British milliner based in London, who is considered one of the most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. He is also one of the most prolific, having created hats for the catwalk shows of many leading couturiers and fashion designers, such as John Galliano at Dior and Vivienne Westwood.Hats: An Anthology microsite
on the V&A Museum website, accessed 1 April 2009
His work is known for its inventiveness and high level of technical expertise.Stephen Jones spiral hat
in the V&A collections online database. Accessed 3 April 2009
Jones co-
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Clive Evans (fashion Designer)
Clive Evans, better known as Clive, was a London-born fashion designer of the 1960s who attracted a number of celebrity fans and was promoted internationally as a high fashion designer from Swinging London. Operating initially as a couture designer – and at a time when fashion was undergoing a radical shift towards mass-market and ready-to-wear – he was described by ''The Times'' fashion editor Prudence Glynn in 1972 as: "the last flowering on the tree of British couture". Early life and career Evans was born in London into a medical family, claiming six generations of doctors came before him. He chose not to follow family tradition and spent time in the navy, also training as a journalist and working as a porter. Having completed a course at Canterbury College of Art Evans began his fashion apprenticeship with Michael of Carlos Place before working at Lachasse and John Cavanagh – all were members of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers (IncSoc), givin ...
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Aquascutum
Aquascutum was a British-based luxury clothing manufacturer and retailer. It is currently owned by Shandong Ruyi. History Aquascutum was established in 1851, the year of the Great Exhibition, when tailor and entrepreneur John Emary opened a high quality menswear shop at 46 Regent Street. In 1853, after succeeding in producing the first waterproof wool, he had his discovery patented and renamed the company 'Aquascutum', Latin for 'watershield'. In 1901, Emary moved to 100 Regent Street in the heart of London. The company created other fabrics and coats using similar names, such as the ''Eiderscutum'' light overcoat and (in 1962) the multicoloured wool-yarn weave, ''Aquaspectrum''. Coats for officers in the Crimean War (1853–1856) were made from Aquascutum's waterproof fabric, as were the trench coats worn by soldiers of all ranks in both world wars. Domestic and fashion applications followed, promoted in the 19th century by royal fashion leader King Edward VII; he was Aqua ...
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