Hunza Valley
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The Hunza Valley ( bsk, , Wakhi: '; ur, ) is a mountainous valley in the northern part of the Gilgit-Baltistan region of
Pakistan Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...
, formed by the
Hunza River Hunza River ( ur, ) is the principal river of Hunza in Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan It is formed by the confluence of the Chapursan and Khunjerab ''nalas'' (gorges) which are fed by glaciers. It is joined by the Gilgit River and the Nalta ...
, bordering Ishkoman to the northwest, Shigar to the southeast,
Afghanistan Afghanistan, officially the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan,; prs, امارت اسلامی افغانستان is a landlocked country located at the crossroads of Central Asia and South Asia. Referred to as the Heart of Asia, it is borde ...
's
Wakhan Corridor The Wakhan Corridor ( ps, واخان دهلېز, translit=wāxān dahléz, fa, دالان واخان, translit=dâlân vâxân) is a narrow strip of territory in Badakhshan Province of Afghanistan, extending to Xinjiang in China and separatin ...
to the north, and the Xinjiang region of China to the northeast.


Geography

The Hunza Valley is a mountainous valley in the northern part of the Gilgit-Baltistan region of
Pakistan Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...
, formed by the
Hunza River Hunza River ( ur, ) is the principal river of Hunza in Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan It is formed by the confluence of the Chapursan and Khunjerab ''nalas'' (gorges) which are fed by glaciers. It is joined by the Gilgit River and the Nalta ...
, bordering Ishkoman to the northwest, Shigar to the southeast,
Afghanistan Afghanistan, officially the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan,; prs, امارت اسلامی افغانستان is a landlocked country located at the crossroads of Central Asia and South Asia. Referred to as the Heart of Asia, it is borde ...
's
Wakhan Corridor The Wakhan Corridor ( ps, واخان دهلېز, translit=wāxān dahléz, fa, دالان واخان, translit=dâlân vâxân) is a narrow strip of territory in Badakhshan Province of Afghanistan, extending to Xinjiang in China and separatin ...
to the north and the Xinjiang region of China to the northeast. The Hunza Valley floor is at an elevation of 2,438 meters (7,999 feet). Geographically, the Hunza Valley consists of three regions: Upper Hunza ( Gojal), Central Hunza, and Lower Hunza ( Shinaki).


History

Buddhism Buddhism ( , ), also known as Buddha Dharma and Dharmavinaya (), is an Indian religion or philosophical tradition based on teachings attributed to the Buddha. It originated in northern India as a -movement in the 5th century BCE, and ...
, and to a lesser extent,
Bön ''Bon'', also spelled Bön () and also known as Yungdrung Bon (, "eternal Bon"), is a Tibetan religious tradition with many similarities to Tibetan Buddhism and also many unique features.Samuel 2012, pp. 220-221. Bon initially developed in t ...
, were the main religions in the area. The region has several surviving Buddhist archaeological sites, such as the Sacred Rock of Hunza. Nearby are former sites of Buddhist shelters. Hunza valley was central as a trading route from
Central Asia Central Asia, also known as Middle Asia, is a region of Asia that stretches from the Caspian Sea in the west to western China and Mongolia in the east, and from Afghanistan and Iran in the south to Russia in the north. It includes the fo ...
to the subcontinent. It also provided protection to Buddhist missionaries and monks visiting the subcontinent, and the region played a significant role in the transmission of Buddhism throughout Asia. The region was a Buddhist majority till the 15th century, before the arrival of Islam in this region. Since then, most of the population has converted to
Islam Islam (; ar, ۘالِإسلَام, , ) is an Abrahamic monotheistic religion centred primarily around the Quran, a religious text considered by Muslims to be the direct word of God (or '' Allah'') as it was revealed to Muhammad, the ...
. Thus, the presence of Buddhism in this region has now been limited to archeological sites, as the remaining Buddhists of this region moved east to
Leh Leh () ( lbj, ) is the joint capital and largest city of Ladakh, a union territory of India. Leh, located in the Leh district, was also the historical capital of the Kingdom of Ladakh, the seat of which was in the Leh Palace, the former ...
, where Buddhism is the majority religion. The region has many works of graffiti in the ancient
Brahmi script Brahmi (; ; ISO: ''Brāhmī'') is a writing system of ancient South Asia. "Until the late nineteenth century, the script of the Aśokan (non-Kharosthi) inscriptions and its immediate derivatives was referred to by various names such as 'lath' ...
written on rocks, produced by Buddhist monks as a form of worship and culture. With most locals converting to Islam, they had been mainly left ignored, destroyed, or forgotten, but are now being restored. "Hunza was formerly a
princely state A princely state (also called native state or Indian state) was a nominally sovereign entity of the British Indian Empire that was not directly governed by the British, but rather by an Indian ruler under a form of indirect rule, subject to ...
bordering
Xinjiang Xinjiang, SASM/GNC: ''Xinjang''; zh, c=, p=Xīnjiāng; formerly romanized as Sinkiang (, ), officially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region (XUAR), is an autonomous region of the People's Republic of China (PRC), located in the northwest ...
(autonomous region of China) to the northeast and
Pamir Pamir may refer to: Geographical features * Pamir Mountains, a mountain range in Central Asia ** Pamir-Alay, a mountain system in Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, part of the Pamir Mountains *A pamir (valley) is a high plateau or valley surro ...
to the northwest, which survived until 1974, when it was finally dissolved by
Zulfikar Ali Bhutto Zulfikar (or Zulfiqar) Ali Bhutto ( ur, , sd, ذوالفقار علي ڀٽو; 5 January 1928 – 4 April 1979), also known as Quaid-e-Awam ("the People's Leader"), was a Pakistani barrister, politician and statesman who served as the fourt ...
. The state bordered the
Gilgit Agency The Gilgit Agency ( ur, ) was an agency of the British Indian Empire consisting of the subsidiary states of the princely state of Jammu and Kashmir at its northern periphery, mainly with the objective of strengthening these territories against ...
to the south and the former princely state of Nagar to the east. The state capital was the town of Baltit (also known as Karimabad); another old settlement is
Ganish Village Ganish (also Ganesh) is a village in Pakistan. It is the oldest and first settlement on the ancient Silk Road in the Hunza Valley, and is the site of various ancient watchtowers, traditional mosques, religious centers, and a reservoir. It is ...
which means 'Baba Ganesh village' (a Buddhist name). Hunza was an independent principality for more than 900 years and then in the early 1800s, Hunza played a vital role in the British "
Great Game The Great Game is the name for a set of political, diplomatic and military confrontations that occurred through most of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century – involving the rivalry of the British Empire and the Russian Empi ...
". In 1891 Hunza was captured by the British Empire, and the ruler of Hunza,
Mir ''Mir'' (russian: Мир, ; ) was a space station that operated in low Earth orbit from 1986 to 2001, operated by the Soviet Union and later by Russia. ''Mir'' was the first modular space station and was assembled in orbit from 1986 to&n ...
Safdar Ali Khan, fled to Kashgar, China, and the British army installed his brother Mir Nazim Khan (1892-1938) as a puppet ruler of Hunza Valley, but all orders were passed by British officers who were appointed in the capital Gilgit."


Mir/Tham

According to an account written by John Biddulph in his book '' Tribes of the Hindoo Koosh'':


2010 landslide

On 4 January 2010, a landslide blocked the river and created
Attabad Lake Attabad Lake ( ur, ) is a lake located in the Gojal region of Hunza Valley in Gilgit−Baltistan, Pakistan. It was created in January 2010 as the result of a major landslide in Attabad. The lake has become one of the biggest tourist attra ...
(also called Shishket Lake), resulting in 20 deaths and 8 injuries and effectively blocked about of the
Karakoram Highway The Karakoram Highway ( ur, , translit=śāhirāh qarāquram; known by its initials KKH, also known as N-35 or National Highway 35 ( ur, ) or the China-Pakistan Friendship Highway) is a national highway which extends from Hasan Abdal in ...
. The new lake extends and rose to a depth of when it was formed as the Hunza River backed up. Karakorum Area Development Organization (KADO), Aliabad The landslide completely covered sections of the Karakoram Highway.


Tourism

Hunza is one of the most exotic places in Pakistan. Several high peaks rise above 7,000 m in the surroundings of Hunza Valley. The valley provides views of several mountains, including: Rakaposhi 7,788 m (25,551 ft), Ultar Sar 7,388 m (24,239 ft), Bojahagur Duanasir II 7,329 m (24,045 ft), Diran peak (7,266), Spantik (7027m), Ghenta Peak 7,090 m (15,631 ft), Hunza Peak 6,270 m (20,571 ft), Darmyani Peak 6,090 m (19,980 ft), and Bublimating (Ladyfinger Peak) 6,000 m (19,685 ft). Many 7,000 m mountains are present in Hunza like
Distaghil Sar Disteghil Sar or Distaghil Sar ( ur, ) is the highest mountain in the Shimshal Valley, part of the Karakoram mountain range in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It is the 19th-highest mountain on Earth and the 7th-highest in Pakistan. ''Disteghil ...
,
Batura __NOTOC__ The Batura Muztagh () mountains are a sub-range of the Karakoram mountain range. They are located in between central hunza and upper hunza( Gojal valley) in the Hunza district of the Gilgit-Baltistan province in northern Pakistan. They a ...
, Batura II, Batura III,
Muchu Chhish Muchu Chhish () is a mountain in the Batura Muztagh sub-range of the Karakoram in Hunza Valley, a disputed region administrated by Pakistan. The valley is also claimed by India, which considers it to be within the union territory of Ladakh. Loc ...
,
Kunyang Chhish Kunyang Chhish or Kunyang Chhish ( ur, ) is the second-highest mountain in the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange in the Karakoram mountains in Pakistan. An alternate variation of the name is Kunyang Kish. Its height, also sometimes given as , is ranke ...
,
shispare Shispare ( ur, ) is one of the high mountain peaks of the Batura Muztagh, the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram range in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Alternate forms of the name of this peak include Shispare Sar and Shisparé ...
,
Passu Sar Passu Sar ( ur, ; or Passu Sar, Passu I) is a mountain peak in the Batura Muztagh, a sub-range of the Karakoram mountain range, in the Hunza District of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It is the high point of the Passu massif, which also includes P ...
,
Kanjut Sar Kanjut Sar (), or Kunjudh Sar as pronounced in Wakhi, is a mountain located in the Shimshal Valley, part of the Karakoram mountain range. The name ''Kunjudh Sar'' in Wakhi means "that which overlooks Kunjudh", or "above Kunjudh", while Khujudh ...
, Yukshin Gardan Sar,
Pumari Chhish Pumari Chhish ( ur, ), (or Pumarikish, Peak 11) is a high peak in the Shimshal Valley, a village of the Karakoram range. It lies about 4 km east of Khunyang Chhish, in the heart of the Hispar, north of the Hispar Glacier. Pumari Chhish ...
, Momhil Sar and many more. The fairy-tale-like castle of Baltit, above Karimabad, is a Hunza landmark built about 800 years ago. Stilted on massive legs, its wooden bay windows look out over the valley. Originally, it was used as the residence of the Mirs (the title of the former rulers) of Hunza. Hunza Valley is also hosting the ancient watchtowers in Ganish,
Baltit Fort Baltit Fort () is a fort in the Hunza valley, near the town of Karimabad, in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of northern Pakistan. Founded in the 8th century CE, it has been on the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative list since 2004. The Mirs of Hunza ...
, and
Altit Fort Altit Fort ( ur, قلعہ التیت) is an ancient fort in the Altit town in the Hunza valley in Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan. It was originally home to the hereditary rulers of the Hunza state who carried the title of ' Mir', although they move ...
. Watchtowers are located in the heart of Ganish Village. Baltit Fort stands on top of Karimabad, whereas Altit Fort lies at the bottom of the valley. In the 8th century AD, a huge Buddha figure surrounded by small Buddhisatvas was discovered carved on a rock. Pre-historic men and animal figures are carved on rocks along the valley. Some lakes like
Attabad Lake Attabad Lake ( ur, ) is a lake located in the Gojal region of Hunza Valley in Gilgit−Baltistan, Pakistan. It was created in January 2010 as the result of a major landslide in Attabad. The lake has become one of the biggest tourist attra ...
, Borith Lake, Shimshal Lakes, Hassanabad Lake are located in Hunza.
Khunjerab Pass Khunjerab Pass (; ; ug, قونجىراپ ئېغىزى) is a mountain pass in the Karakoram Mountains, in a strategic position on the northern border of Pakistan (Gilgit–Baltistan's Hunza and Nagar Districts) and on the southwest border of Ch ...
is a 4,693-meter-high mountain pass in the Karakoram Mountains. It is in a strategic position on the northern border of Pakistan and on the southwest border of China and is also located in Hunza. Eco-friendly hiking treks like Ondra Poygah Gulmit and Leopard Trek Shiskhat are also known for their views. The valley is popularly believed to be the inspiration for the mythical valley of Shangri-La in James Hilton's 1933 novel, ''Lost Horizon''. One can witness the 57 km long
Batura Glacier Batura Glacier (), long, is one of the largest and longest glaciers outside of the polar regions.Tajikistan's Fedchenko Glacier is long, Siachen Glacier is long, Biafo Glacier long, and Baltoro Glacier long. The Bruggen or Pio XI Glacier ...
, the fifth-longest glacier in the world outside the polar region, surrounded by
Shispare Shispare ( ur, ) is one of the high mountain peaks of the Batura Muztagh, the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram range in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Alternate forms of the name of this peak include Shispare Sar and Shisparé ...
,
Batura __NOTOC__ The Batura Muztagh () mountains are a sub-range of the Karakoram mountain range. They are located in between central hunza and upper hunza( Gojal valley) in the Hunza district of the Gilgit-Baltistan province in northern Pakistan. They a ...
, and Kumpirdior peaks. Upon reaching Sost, one can continue the journey up to Khunzhrav or turn west to the Chipursan (also Chapursan) Valley. In Yarzerech (also Yarzirich), one can look at the Kundahill peak (6,000 m), or trek along the Rishepzhurav to the Kundahill. Beyond Yarzerech, one can travel further to Lupghar, Raminj, Reshit, Yishkuk up to Bobo Ghundi (Oston), the shrine of Baba-e-Ghund, a saint from Afghanistan near the border between Pakistan and the Wakhan region of Afghanistan.


2018 rescue mission

On 1 July 2018, Pakistan Army pilots, in a daring mission, rescued 3 foreign mountaineers stuck in snow avalanche at above the height of on Ultar Sar Peak near Hunza. The perilous weather conditions had made it difficult for the Army helicopter to go forth with a rescue operation on the high
Ultar Sar Ultar Sar () (also Ultar, Ultar II, Bojohagur Duanasir II) is the southeasternmost major peak of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram range. It lies about northeast of the Karimabad, a town on the Karakoram Highway in the Hunza Va ...
. Nonetheless, they completed it. Bruce Normand and Timothy Miller from the UK were successfully rescued alive while their companion Christian Huber from
Austria Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...
had succumbed to avalanche. Britain's High Commissioner Thomas Drew in
Pakistan Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...
termed the mission "remarkable and dangerous".


People

The local languages spoken include
Burushaski Burushaski (; ) is a language isolate spoken by Burusho people, who reside almost entirely in northern Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, with a few hundred speakers in northern Jammu and Kashmir, India. In Pakistan, Burushaski is spoken by people ...
, Wakhi and
Shina Shina may refer to: * Shina language, an Indo-Aryan language spoken in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan * Shina people, a Dardic ethnic group in Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan People named Shina * Shina Matsudo (born 1973), Japanese freestyle swimmer * ...
. The literacy rate of the Hunza valley is more than 95%. The historical area of Hunza and present
northern Pakistan Northern Pakistan () is a tourism region in the northern and northwestern parts of Pakistan, comprising the administrative units of Gilgit-Baltistan (formerly known as '' Northern Areas''), Azad Kashmir, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, and the Pothohar P ...
has had, over the centuries, mass migrations, conflicts and resettling of tribes and ethnicities, of which the
Shina people The Shina or shin ( Shina: ݜݨیاٗ, ) are an Indo-Aryan ethnolinguistic group primarily residing in Gilgit–Baltistan and Indus Kohistan in Pakistan, as well as in the Dras Valley and Kishenganga Valley ( Gurez) in the northern region ...
are the most prominent in regional history. People of the region have recounted their historical traditions down the generations. The Hunza Valley is also home to some Wakhi, who migrated there from northeastern Afghanistan beginning in the nineteenth century onwards. The longevity of Hunza people has been noted by some, but others refute this as a
longevity myth Longevity myths are traditions about long-lived people (generally supercentenarians), either as individuals or groups of people, and practices that have been believed to confer longevity, but for which current scientific evidence does not suppo ...
promoted by the lack of birth records. There is no evidence that Hunza life expectancy is significantly above the average of poor, isolated regions of Pakistan. Claims of health and long life were almost always based solely on the statements by the local ''mir'' (king). An author who had significant and sustained contact with
Burusho people The Burusho, or Brusho, also known as the Botraj, are an ethnolinguistic group indigenous to the Yasin, Hunza, Nagar, and other valleys of Gilgit–Baltistan in northern Pakistan, as well as in Jammu and Kashmir, India. Their language, Burus ...
, John Clark, reported that they were overall unhealthy. However, whether or not their putative longevity is true, it is undoubtable that the Hunza people lead a healthy lifestyle. Many researchers have lived with the Hunza people to answer this mystery including
Robert McCarrison Major-General Sir Robert McCarrison, CIE, FRCP (15 March 1878 – 18 May 1960) was a Northern Ireland physician and nutritionist in the Indian Medical Service, who was made a Companion of the Indian Empire (CIE) in 1923, (See p.3946 for list ...
who did not discover a single person with diseases such as cancer, stomach ulcers or appendicitis. Furthermore, Henri Coanda spent six decades studying the glacial water in Hunza and discovered possible explanations for the longevity of the Hunza people.


See also

* State of Hunza (former) *
Hunza District The Hunza District ( ur, ) is one of the 14 districts of the Pakistani province of Gilgit-Baltistan. It was established in 2015 by the division of the Hunza–Nagar District in accordance with a government decision to establish more administrativ ...
*
Nagar District The Nagar District ( ur, ) is one of the 14 districts of Pakistan-administered territory of Gilgit-Baltistan. The Nagar District was established in 2015 by the division of the Hunza–Nagar District into two districts: the Hunza District and th ...
*
Bagrot Valley Bagrote Valley ( ur, وادی بگروٹ) is a valley in the Karakoram Mountain range in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of northern Pakistan. River Bagrote flows through the valley from the north towards the southwest of the valley, supplies water ...
*
Naltar Valley The Naltar Valley () is a valley situated about from the city of Gilgit in Gilgit−Baltistan, Pakistan. It is a forested region known for its dramatic mountain scenery and for its three lakes: Strangi Lake, Blue Lake, and Bodlok Lake. Ski co ...
* Shamanism in Hunza * Northern Areas (former) * Silk Road transmission of Buddhism *
Karakoram Highway The Karakoram Highway ( ur, , translit=śāhirāh qarāquram; known by its initials KKH, also known as N-35 or National Highway 35 ( ur, ) or the China-Pakistan Friendship Highway) is a national highway which extends from Hasan Abdal in ...
*
Karakoram Mountains The Karakoram is a mountain range in Kashmir region spanning the borders of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwest extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range falls under t ...
*
Neelam Valley The district of Neelum (spelt also ''Neelam''; ur, ) is the northernmost of 10 districts located within the Pakistani-administered territory of Azad Kashmir. Taking up the larger part of the Neelam Valley, the district has a population of ar ...
* Kalasha Valley *
Kaghan Valley The Kaghan Valley ( ur, ) is an alpine valley located in the Mansehra District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan. The valley covers a distance of across northern Pakistan, rising from its lowest elevation of to its highest point at the Babusa ...
* Hoper Valley


References


Further reading

* Kreutzmann, Hermann, ''Karakoram in Transition: Culture, Development, and Ecology in the Hunza Valley'', Oxford University Press, 2006. * Leitner, G. W. (1893): ''Dardistan in 1866, 1886 and 1893: Being An Account of the History, Religions, Customs, Legends, Fables and Songs of Gilgit, Chilas, Kandia (Gabrial) Yasin, Chitral, Hunza, Nagar and other parts of the Hindukush, as also a supplement to the second edition of The Hunza and Nagar Handbook. And An Epitome of Part III of the author's "The Languages and Races of Dardistan".'' First Reprint 1978. Manjusri Publishing House, New Delhi. * Lorimer, Lt. Col. D.L.R. ''Folk Tales of Hunza''. 1st edition 1935, Oslo. Three volumes. Vol. II, republished by the Institute of Folk Heritage, Islamabad. 1981. * Sidkey, M. H. "Shamans and Mountain Spirits in Hunza." ''Asian Folklore Studies'', Vol. 53, No. 1 (1994), pp. 67–96.
History of Ancient Era Hunza State
By Haji Qudratullah Beg English Translation By Lt Col (Rtd) Saadullah Beg, TI(M) * * Miller, Katherine, 'Schooling Virtue: Education for 'Spiritual Development' in Megan Adamson Sijapati and Jessica Vantine Birkenholtz, eds., Religion and Modernity in the Himalaya (London: Routledge, 2016).


External links

* http://emergingpakistan.gov.pk/travel/place-to-visit/gilgit-baltistan/hunza-valley/ {{Authority control Valleys of Gilgit-Baltistan Hunza History of Gilgit Agency Hindu Kush Himalayas Regions of Pakistan Landslides in 2010 Valleys of Pakistan