History of Thai clothing

Thai traditional costumes vary by city and the ruler of each historical period. Thai clothes can be classified according to six distinct periods of history; beginning with the 13th century. Previously, traditional Thai clothes were worn daily; however, they are now only worn on auspicious functions such as Thai traditional marriage ceremonies.

Sukhothai

Sukhothai clothing style became the fashion in 13-15th century. During the period The city-state of Sukhothai was united other Tai city-states into one kingdom. Sukhothai Men's clothing was a simple full sleeved top with a long ''V'' shape neck and a cloth brace on their shoulders. The loincloth was made of silk with a big metal or golden belt. Women's clothing was a long silk sarong with flowers painted on it. The top normally is a full sleeved silk cloth. Married women wore one cloth wrapped around the breasts made of silk or other fabric.

Ayutthaya

Ayutthaya clothing was the style during the 14-18th centuries. Ayutthaya city was the capital of Thai kingdom for 417 years, the longest period of Thailand that was ruled under one monarch. Many styles clothing followed the period of Ayutthaya but the fashion changed frequently under the influence from various countries who come into contact and trading with the kingdom.

Historically, both Thai males and females dressed themselves with a loincloth wrap called '' pha chung hang'' or ''chong kraben''. Men wore their ''pha chung hang'' to cover the waist to halfway down the thigh, while women covered the waist to well below the knee. Bare chests and bare feet were accepted as part of the Thai formal dress code, and is observed in murals, illustrated manuscripts, and early photographs up to the middle of the 19th century. In the royal court, royalty and nobility men are wearing lomphok, a tall pointed hat, made of white cloth wrapped around a bamboo frame, and Khrui, a light outer garment worn as a gown or robe in certain ceremonial settings. Traditional Thai attire has changed significantly throughout the Rattanakosin period.

Image:Siam traditional clothes.jpg, Thai traditional costumes in Bangkok National Museum
Image:Burmese Depiction of an Ayutthaya King.jpg, A Burmese depiction of an Ayutthaya king, either depicting Uthumphon or Ekkathat
Image:万国来朝图 (Siam delegates in Peking in 1761).jpg, Siam delegates in Peking in 1761 from the Ten Thousand Nations Coming to Pay Tribute monumental painting
Image:OkKhunChamnan.JPG, Ok-khun Chamnan, a 17th-century Siamese ambassador who visited France and Rome on an embassy in 1688
Image:KosapanPortrait.jpg, The Ayutthayan official Kosa Pan wearing Lomphok and Khrui
Image:Kosan_Pan_Standing.JPG, Kosa Pan wearing lomphok and Khrui, 1686
Image:Forbin in Siamese uniform.jpg, Claude de Forbin wearing Ayutthayan mandarin dress
Image:Audience with Narai, 1685-10-18 (b).jpg, The French ambassador Chevalier de Chaumont presents a letter from Louis XIV to King Narai, 1685
Image:La_Loubere_Kingdom_of_Siam.jpg, a Siamese official wearing Lomphok and pha chung hang, Lifestyle of Siamese people and Traditional Thai house by Simon de La Loubère
Image:暹羅國夷人.jpg, Portrait of Siamese aristocrats from The Portraits of Periodical Offering of Imperial Qing by Xie Sui

Thonburi

Rattanakosin

Early Rattanakosin

Early Rattanakosin central Thais dressed as same as Ayutthaya period, however, after the Second Fall of Ayutthaya and repeated Burmese invasions, central Thai women began cutting their hair in a crew-cut short style, which remained the national hairstyle until the 1900s. Prior to the 20th century, the primary markers that distinguished class in Thai clothing were the use of cotton and silk cloths with printed or woven motifs, but both commoners and royals alike wore wrapped, not stitched clothing.

Image:Bañā Cin - picture.jpg, Binnya Sein or ''Chaophraya'' Mahayotha, the commander of Mon regiment during the reign of King Rama I in the 1800s
Image:สมเด็จกรมสวัสดิ.jpg, Prince Svasti Sobhana, the son of King Mongkut (Rama IV) wearing the royal costumes of the early Rattanakosin period
Image:Nakkhatra Mangala.jpg, Prince Nakkhatra Mangala, was the eldest son of Prince Kitiyakara Voralaksana wearing the royal costumes of the early Rattanakosin period
Image:Ambassade Siamoise.jpg, Photograph of the Siamese embassy to France in 1861, wearing the formal clothing of the early Rattanakosin period
Image:กรมหมื่นภูบดีราชหฤทัย.jpg, Prince Ammarit, the son of King Nangklao (Rama III), before 1870
Image:Prime Minister in 1865, the late Kralahom Wellcome L0020139.jpg, Sri Suriyawongse was a Prime Minister of Southern Siam during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), 1865
Image:Prince Vichaichan.jpg, Prince Yodyingyot, later ''Bowon Wichaichan'' with the early Rattanakosin style clothing, before 1885
Image:Younger Prince Chulalongkorn and 2 younger brother.jpg, Young Prince Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and his two younger brother in 1851
Image:Siamese boatman, Siam (Thailand). Wellcome L0055805.jpg, Photograph of a 19th century Siamese boatman by John Thomson
Image:Siamese men squat.gif, Thai men squat with the early Rattanakosin style clothing

Image:Siamese girl (NYPL Hades-2359944-4044709).jpg, Siamese girl with the early Rattanakosin style clothing, 1921
Image:Kinnari of Siam.jpg, Princess Kinnari, the 30th daughter of King Rama III, 1819
Image:Queen Sunandha of Siam.jpg, Queen Sunandha, one of the four consorts of King Chulalongkorn with the early Rattanakosin style clothing
Image:Tieng Rojanadis in King Rama IV.jpg, Tieng Rojanadis, was a consort of King Mongkut (Rama IV)
Image:Siamese peasant, 1904.gif, Siamese peasant, 1904
Image:Queen_Debsirindra.jpg, Queen Debsirindra, the second consort of King Mongkut with the early Rattanakosin style clothing, 1855
Image:Rama III's daughter.jpg, Daughters of King Rama II and King Rama III
Image:Siamese lady of title, wife of Prime Minister, Bangkok, Siam Wellcome L0055546.jpg, Lady Pun Bunnag, Somdet Chaophraya Borom Maha Sri Suriwongse's wife with the early Rattanakosin style clothing in 1866
Image:Princess Ying Yaowalak Akkharatchasuda.jpg, Princess Ying Yaowalak Akkharatchasuda (1851–1886), was the daughter of King Mongkut
Image:พระน้องนางเธอในรัชกาลที่5.jpg, Daughters of King Mongkut (Rama IV) with the early Rattanakosin style clothing
Image:Khrueang Mahori Piphat (1930, p. 38).jpg, A traditional Siamese female quartet with the early Rattanakosin style clothing
Image:Queen Savang Vadhana in 1879.jpg, Queen Savang Vadhana, a consort of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) in 1879
Image:พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้านารีรัตนา.jpg, Princess Nariratana, was the daughter of King Mongkut (Rama IV)
Image:Queen Somanass of Siam.jpg, Queen Somanass Waddhanawathy, a first queen of King Mongkut (Rama IV)
Image:Thip Keson, Princess of Chiang Mai.jpg, Princess Thip Keson (or Thep Kraison), Princess of Chiang Mai, consort of Inthawichayanon of Chiang Mai and mother of Dara Rasmi, before 1884
Image:Dara Rasami @ Dusit House.jpg, Princess Dara Rasmi, a princess of Chiang Mai wearing pha sin and pha biang at Dusit Palace, 1909
Image:กรมพระยาสุดารัตนราชประยูร1.jpg, Princess Lamom, was the daughter of King Nangklao (Rama III), before 1896
Image:Siamese Women.jpg, Siamese womens photo, 1890
Image:111 Women (9163948661).jpg, Painting of Siamese womans wearing pha nung and pha biang in Wat Pho, Bangkok

Modern Rattanakosin

From the 1860s onward, Thai royals "selectively adopted Victorian corporeal and sartorial etiquette to fashion modern personas that were publicized domestically and internationally by means of mechanically reproduced images." Stitched clothing, including court attire and ceremonial uniforms, were invented during the reign of King Chulalongkorn. Western forms of dress became popular among urbanites in Bangkok during this time period.

During the early 1900s, King Vajiravudh launched a campaign to encourage Thai women to wear long hair instead of traditional short hair, and to wear ''pha nung'' (ผ้านุ่ง) and '' pha sinh'' (ผ้าซิ่น), a tubular skirt, instead of the '' pha chung hang'' (ผ้าจูงหาง) or ''Chong kraben'' (โจงกระเบน), a cloth wrap.

Image:King Chulalongkorn wearing raj pattern.jpg, King Chulalongkorn wearing the ''raj pattern'' costume, consisting of a white Nehru-style jacket with five buttons and a '' Pha chung hang'' or ''chong kraben''
Image:Prince Ditsawarakuman.png, Prince Damrong Rajanubhab wearing the ''raj pattern'' costume, 1900
Image:King Vajiravudh in barrister-at-law gown.jpg, King Vajiravudh wearing the ''raj pattern'' covered with the ''khrui''
Image:The World's Parliament of Religions - an illustrated and popular story of the World's First Parliament of Religions, held in Chicago in connection with the Columbian exposition of 1893 (1893) (14762928424).jpg, Prince Vividhavannapreecha, the 51st son of King Chulalongkorn in 1893
Image:Pin Malakul, c.1910s.jpg, Portrait of Mom Luang Pin Malakul as a student at Suankularb Wittayalai School, 1910s

Image:Consort Samlee and daughters.jpg, Queen consort Sukhumala Marasri of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). with her mother and daughters in 1880
Image:Sukumalmarsri and her cousin.jpg, Queen consort Sukhumala Marasri and the princesses of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), 1887
Image:Saovabha Phongsri.jpg, Queen Saovabha Phongsri, an agnatic half-sister and queen of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), 1897
Image:Chum Krairiksh and her daughters.jpg, Chum Krairoek Royal Highness Consort of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and her daughters in 1900s
Image:Princess Puang Soi Sa-ang.jpg, Princess Puangsoi Sa-ang, was the daughter of King Mongkut (Rama IV), 1880
Image:The Princess Sri Ratanakosindorn.jpg, Princess Suddha Dibyaratana or the Princess of Rattanakosin, was the daughter of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), before 1910
Image:Princess Saisavali Bhiromya.jpg, Princess Saisavali Bhiromya, was a princess consort of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), 1887
Image:Chao Chom Mom Rajawongse Sadap dress in Edwardian style.jpg, Chao Chom Mom Rajawongse Sadap (1890–1983), was the noble consort of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V)
Image:พระองค์เจ้าแม้นเขียน.jpg, Princes Mankhian, was the daughter of King Rama II
Image:Thai princesses of the Inner Court.jpg, Thai princess of the Inner Court of the Grand Palace, Bangkok in 1890
Image:พระราชธิดาในรัชกาลที่ 5 พ.ศ. 2447.JPG, Daughters of King Rama V, 1904
Image:Prince Dilok Noppharat and Princess Thipkeson.jpg, Prince Dilok Noppharat and his mother, Princess Thip Keson of Chiang Mai in 1896
Image:Yugala Digambara and Saisavali Bhiromya.jpg, Prince Yugala Dighambara and his mother, Princess Saisavali Bhiromya a consort of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), before 1905
Image:Savang Vadhana with son and daughter.jpg, Prince Mahidol Adulyadej with his sister Princess Valaya Alongkorn and his mother, Queen Sri Savarindira (Savang Vadhana), 1925

Fascist Thailand

On 15 January 1941, Plaek Pibulsonggram issued a Thai cultural mandate to modernize and westernize Thai dress, by deeming long-practiced customs of wearing underpants, wearing no shirt, or wearing a wraparound cloth, as forms of inappropriate public attire.The Royal Gazette, Vol. 58, Page 113.
January 21, B.E. 2484 ( C.E. 1941). Retrieved on June 4, 2010.

Contemporary Thai clothing

The formal Thai costume, known in Thai as (, literally ''Thai dress of royal endorsement''), includes several sets of dress, designed as the Thai national costume in formal occasions. Although described and intended for use as national costume, they are of relatively modern origins, having been conceived in the second half of the 20th century.

Image:Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn 2010-12-7.jpg, Princess Sirindhorn wearing the "Chut Thai Amarin" (
Image:Princess Soamsavali 2010-12-7 Cropped 1.jpg, Princess Soamsavali wearing the "Chut Thai Amarin" (
Image:Princess Ubolratana (Cropped).jpg, Princess Ubolratana wearing the "Chut Thai Boromphiman" ()


Image:ฯพณฯ พลเอกเปรม ติณสูลานนท์ ประธานองคมนตรี .jpg, Prem Tinsulanonda, former Thai Prime Minister wearing the "chut thai phra ratcha niyom" ()
Image:File-Abhisit Vejjajiva 2 October 2009 cropped.jpg, Former Thai Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva wearing the "chut thai phra ratcha niyom" ()
Image:The Union Minister of External Affairs, Shri Pranab Mukherjee meeting with the Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Thailand, Mr. General Surayud Chulanont, in New Delhi on June 26, 2007 (cropped).jpg, Surayud Chulanont, former Thai Prime Minister wearing the "chut thai phra ratcha niyom" ()

See also

* Traditional Thai clothing

References

External links

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การแต่งกายสมัยอยุธยา

{{Asian topic, suffix=clothing
Thai culture
Thai clothing
Thai history
History of Asian clothing