Grande Hotel Beira
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The Grande Hotel Beira was a luxury hotel in Beira,
Mozambique Mozambique (), officially the Republic of Mozambique ( pt, Moçambique or , ; ny, Mozambiki; sw, Msumbiji; ts, Muzambhiki), is a country located in southeastern Africa bordered by the Indian Ocean to the east, Tanzania to the north, Malawi ...
. It was opened in 1954 and operated until 1974, when it was closed due to lack of guests. The building was used as a military base during the Mozambican Civil War. It is currently home to over 3,500
squatters Squatting is the action of occupying an abandoned or unoccupied area of land or a building, usually residential, that the squatter does not own, rent or otherwise have lawful permission to use. The United Nations estimated in 2003 that there ...
.


Development and history

In 1932, the urban plan of Ponta Gêa was designed by the architect brothers Rebelo de Andrade, and the plan included a hotel with an Olympic swimming pool in a spot overlooking the
Indian Ocean The Indian Ocean is the third-largest of the world's five oceanic divisions, covering or ~19.8% of the water on Earth's surface. It is bounded by Asia to the north, Africa to the west and Australia to the east. To the south it is bounded by th ...
, the mouth of the Buzi River and the sea harbour of Beira. Architect José Porto of the Gabinete de Urbanização Colonial produced the original concept design for the hotel; and in 1953, the Companhia de Moçambique commissioned architect Francisco de Castro to develop the original design and the final detailing. At the time, the Companhia de Moçambique had the concession to exploit the area now known as the provinces of Manica and Sofala. When the concession ended in 1942, the Companhia still owned local businesses and continued to dominate the local economy. One of its directors was Antonio Arantes e Oliveira, who was a brother of the future Governor-General of Mozambique and who had a close connection with the fascist Portuguese dictator, Salazar. Arthur Brandão was the chief officer of the Companhia and also held a prominent position within the Salazar regime. Although Beira was a
Portuguese colony The Portuguese Empire ( pt, Império Português), also known as the Portuguese Overseas (''Ultramar Português'') or the Portuguese Colonial Empire (''Império Colonial Português''), was composed of the overseas colonies, factories, and the l ...
, it had been heavily influenced culturally by Britain due to the neighbouring
British colony The British Overseas Territories (BOTs), also known as the United Kingdom Overseas Territories (UKOTs), are fourteen territories with a constitutional and historical link with the United Kingdom. They are the last remnants of the former Bri ...
of
Southern Rhodesia Southern Rhodesia was a landlocked self-governing British Crown colony in southern Africa, established in 1923 and consisting of British South Africa Company (BSAC) territories lying south of the Zambezi River. The region was informally kn ...
's use of its sea harbour. The Portuguese '' Estado Novo'' and the ending of the Companhia concession gave rise to increased Portuguese influence throughout the city: the Portuguese Escudo became the only official currency, the government became dominated by the fascist Salazar regime, and the streetscape changed with the new
Art Deco Art Deco, short for the French ''Arts Décoratifs'', and sometimes just called Deco, is a style of visual arts, architecture, and product design, that first appeared in France in the 1910s (just before World War I), and flourished in the Unite ...
and Modern Movement architecture. The Grande Hotel became a symbol of the success of the ''Estado Novo'' in Beira, as it was intended to provide luxury accommodation for VIPS, business travelers, and wealthy tourists from
Southern Rhodesia Southern Rhodesia was a landlocked self-governing British Crown colony in southern Africa, established in 1923 and consisting of British South Africa Company (BSAC) territories lying south of the Zambezi River. The region was informally kn ...
, the
Union of South Africa The Union of South Africa ( nl, Unie van Zuid-Afrika; af, Unie van Suid-Afrika; ) was the historical predecessor to the present-day Republic of South Africa. It came into existence on 31 May 1910 with the unification of the Cape, Natal, Trans ...
, and from
Portugal Portugal, officially the Portuguese Republic ( pt, República Portuguesa, links=yes ), is a country whose mainland is located on the Iberian Peninsula of Southwestern Europe, and whose territory also includes the Atlantic archipelagos of ...
or its colonies.


Architecture

The exterior of the Grande Hotel was done in the
Art Deco Art Deco, short for the French ''Arts Décoratifs'', and sometimes just called Deco, is a style of visual arts, architecture, and product design, that first appeared in France in the 1910s (just before World War I), and flourished in the Unite ...
style that was popular in Portugal during the ''Estado Novo'' era of the 1930s and 1940s. Art Deco's geometrical shapes and repetition represented modernity and a rejection of the neobaroque style of the previous era. As such, the exterior of the Grande Hotel had no ornamentation or intricate patterns. The interior, however, was done in an eclectic style and with the use of modern materials in a manner unusual in Beira at that time and even seldom used in other works of the architect, Francisco de Castro. De Castro also designed the famous CFM train station in Beira.


Opening and operation as a hotel

In 1955, the Grande Hotel opened in an event officiated by the Roman Catholic Bishop of Beira, Sebastião Soares de Resende. White residents of Beira could use the swimming pool, and they recalled the Grande Hotel as a palace of unlimited luxury where one could eat the finest chocolate. Hollywood star Kim Novak stayed there when she came to hunt in the nearby
Gorongosa National Park Gorongosa National Park is at the southern end of the Great African Rift Valley in the heart of central Mozambique, Southeast Africa. The more than park comprises the valley floor and parts of surrounding plateaus. Rivers originating on nearby M ...
. Still, the expected clientele—wealthy tourists and business travelers—never materialised. Although Beira was a popular holiday destination, its tourists were primarily
white White is the lightest color and is achromatic (having no hue). It is the color of objects such as snow, chalk, and milk, and is the opposite of black. White objects fully reflect and scatter all the visible wavelengths of light. White on ...
middle-income families from Salisbury (now called
Harare Harare (; formerly Salisbury ) is the capital and most populous city of Zimbabwe. The city proper has an area of 940 km2 (371 mi2) and a population of 2.12 million in the 2012 census and an estimated 3.12 million in its metropolitan ...
), the capital of
Southern Rhodesia Southern Rhodesia was a landlocked self-governing British Crown colony in southern Africa, established in 1923 and consisting of British South Africa Company (BSAC) territories lying south of the Zambezi River. The region was informally kn ...
(now called
Zimbabwe Zimbabwe (), officially the Republic of Zimbabwe, is a landlocked country located in Southeast Africa, between the Zambezi and Limpopo Rivers, bordered by South Africa to the south, Botswana to the south-west, Zambia to the north, and Mozam ...
), which was 550 km or 9 hours away by car. They could not afford the luxuries of the Grande Hotel, instead preferring beach holidays in the tourist district of Macuti, 8 km from the city centre. Although the Grande Hotel was only a 2 km walk from the city centre, swimming at the beach was forbidden.


Casino myth

Several sources refer to proposals for the Grande Hotel to host a
casino A casino is a facility for certain types of gambling. Casinos are often built near or combined with hotels, resorts, restaurants, retail shopping, cruise ships, and other tourist attractions. Some casinos are also known for hosting live entertai ...
. However, the building plans do not show any facilities that would suggest a casino. Francisco Ivo, an architect and former student of Francisco de Castro, claimed that De Castro told him that there was no intention to create a casino. The clients of the Grande Hotel had close associations with the Portuguese dictator Salazar, and Salazar thought it was morally inappropriate to have gambling in the African colonies. Indeed, casinos in Lourenço Marques and Costa Bello were forced to close in the early 1930s.


Closing

After twenty years, the Grande Hotel Beira was closed, deemed by the company to be unprofitable and too costly to keep open. The hotel had never made a profit in any year of its operation. The construction costs had come to three times the original budget. Anticipated wealthy guests never came, and the staff necessary to maintain and operate a luxury hotel was too large for the number of guests actually served. Every lift, for example, had a personal operator. In several documents it was claimed that the reason for closure was the refusal of the regime to grant the hotel a casino permit. However, the white residents of Southern Africa could not afford this level of luxury, and Beira was not known as a holiday destination for wealthy people, who already preferred the
Bazaruto Archipelago The Bazaruto Archipelago is a group of six islands in Mozambique, near the mainland city of Vilankulo. It comprises the islands of Bazaruto, Benguerra, Magaruque, Banque, Santa Carolina (also known as Paradise Island) and Shell. Nyati Island i ...
at
Vilanculos Vilankulo (or Vilanculos) is a coastal town in Mozambique, lying in the Vilanculos District of Inhambane Province. Vilankulo is named after local tribal chief Gamela Vilankulo Mukoke, and some of the "bairros" (suburbs) are named after his sons. ...
, the Mediterranean city life style of the Mozambican capital Lourenço Marques, the South African Krüger National Park and the
Victoria Falls Victoria Falls ( Lozi: ''Mosi-oa-Tunya'', "The Smoke That Thunders"; Tonga: ''Shungu Namutitima'', "Boiling Water") is a waterfall on the Zambezi River in southern Africa, which provides habitat for several unique species of plants and animal ...
in
Rhodesia Rhodesia (, ), officially from 1970 the Republic of Rhodesia, was an unrecognised state in Southern Africa from 1965 to 1979, equivalent in territory to modern Zimbabwe. Rhodesia was the ''de facto'' successor state to the British colony of S ...
. Business travelers stayed at the Ambassador Hotel, a less expensive alternative situated in the Baixa (downtown) area, where most of the business offices were located. Arthur Brandão, the chief officer of the Companhia, also owned the Ambassador.


Aftermath

The Grande Hotel closed for business in 1963; it remained available for large events and conferences, although it was used only twice. The first time was to accommodate members of the
United States Congress The United States Congress is the legislature of the federal government of the United States. It is bicameral, composed of a lower body, the House of Representatives, and an upper body, the Senate. It meets in the U.S. Capitol in Washing ...
who were on a cruise along the East African coast. The second time was in 1971, for the wedding of Petusha Jardim, daughter of Jorge Jardim, then Minister of State of Mozambique and Governor-General of Mozambique, a very senior-ranking official within the '' Estado Novo''. Traditionally, Portuguese weddings involved a large number of guests, and this wedding was attended by VIPs from all over the ''Estado Novo'' and the neighbouring 'White Laager' countries. The Grande Hotel was the only place large enough to accommodate the event. The swimming pool remained open to the public and, as it was the only Olympic-size swimming pool in the colony at that time, it became the main training facility for the Mozambican Olympic swimming team.


Mozambique independence

On 25 June 1975, Mozambique gained independence as a result of Portugal's nonviolent
Carnation Revolution The Carnation Revolution ( pt, Revolução dos Cravos), also known as the 25 April ( pt, 25 de Abril, links=no), was a military coup by left-leaning military officers that overthrew the authoritarian Estado Novo regime on 25 April 1974 in Lisbo ...
the previous year; the Mozambique Liberation Front, later known as
Frelimo FRELIMO (; from the Portuguese , ) is a democratic socialist political party in Mozambique. It is the dominant party in Mozambique and has won a majority of the seats in the Assembly of the Republic in every election since the country's first ...
, assumed power. On the first day of independence, the Grande Hotel hosted the first wedding in Beira under the new regime. Later, the bar at the swimming pool became the office of Frelimo's Revolutionary Committee, which was responsible for establishing
socialism Socialism is a left-wing economic philosophy and movement encompassing a range of economic systems characterized by the dominance of social ownership of the means of production as opposed to private ownership. As a term, it describes the e ...
in Beira and the province of
Sofala Sofala, at present known as Nova Sofala, used to be the chief seaport of the Mwenemutapa Kingdom, whose capital was at Mount Fura. It is located on the Sofala Bank in Sofala Province of Mozambique. It was founded by Somali merchants. This name wa ...
. While the main hall of the Grande Hotel was used for party meetings and events, the basement became a prison for opponents of the new government. In 1978, the communist
Frelimo FRELIMO (; from the Portuguese , ) is a democratic socialist political party in Mozambique. It is the dominant party in Mozambique and has won a majority of the seats in the Assembly of the Republic in every election since the country's first ...
government assumed ownership of private land, a move that resulted in the exodus of the remaining Mozambican-Portuguese community that had dominated the local economy. However, the Grande Hotel was one of the exceptions, and its land and the building remain the property of the Portuguese Grupo Entreposto SA, the continuation of the Companhia de Moçambique. In 1977, the Mozambican Civil War broke out in the province of Sofala: Renamo vs
Frelimo FRELIMO (; from the Portuguese , ) is a democratic socialist political party in Mozambique. It is the dominant party in Mozambique and has won a majority of the seats in the Assembly of the Republic in every election since the country's first ...
. The civil war was in part the extension of the global
Cold War The Cold War is a term commonly used to refer to a period of geopolitical tension between the United States and the Soviet Union and their respective allies, the Western Bloc and the Eastern Bloc. The term '' cold war'' is used because the ...
; capitalism vs communism. Renamo was established by the
Rhodesian Army The Rhodesian Security Forces were the military forces of the Rhodesian government. The Rhodesian Security Forces consisted of a ground force (the Rhodesian Army), the Rhodesian Air Force, the British South Africa Police, and various personnel ...
and the South African Defence Force with the aim of destroying the communist Frelimo regime. Renamo launched guerrilla attacks at social and economic targets. The Grande Hotel, as the Frelimo political base in this area, became a Frelimo military base as well. With the fall of Ian Smith's government in
Rhodesia Rhodesia (, ), officially from 1970 the Republic of Rhodesia, was an unrecognised state in Southern Africa from 1965 to 1979, equivalent in territory to modern Zimbabwe. Rhodesia was the ''de facto'' successor state to the British colony of S ...
, the ZANU party came into power. They renamed the country
Zimbabwe Zimbabwe (), officially the Republic of Zimbabwe, is a landlocked country located in Southeast Africa, between the Zambezi and Limpopo Rivers, bordered by South Africa to the south, Botswana to the south-west, Zambia to the north, and Mozam ...
upon independence in April 1980, and Robert Mugabe became the Prime Minister of Zimbabwe, later becoming
President President most commonly refers to: *President (corporate title) *President (education), a leader of a college or university *President (government title) President may also refer to: Automobiles * Nissan President, a 1966–2010 Japanese ful ...
. With this change, Zimbabwe needed to use the Beira corridor as its import/export route, since the alternate routes ran through
South Africa South Africa, officially the Republic of South Africa (RSA), is the southernmost country in Africa. It is bounded to the south by of coastline that stretch along the South Atlantic and Indian Oceans; to the north by the neighbouring countri ...
, which Zimbabwe now boycotted. In 1981, the
Zimbabwe Defence Force The Zimbabwe Defence Forces (ZDF) are composed of the Zimbabwe National Army (ZNA) and the Air Force of Zimbabwe (AFZ). As a landlocked country, Zimbabwe has no navy. The most senior commander of the ZDF is General Philip Valerio Sibanda. At the ...
established a neutral zone in Beira and its import/export corridor. As a result, the city became a haven for refugees seeking safety and access to international aid entering through the sea harbour and
airport An airport is an aerodrome with extended facilities, mostly for commercial air transport. Airports usually consists of a landing area, which comprises an aerially accessible open space including at least one operationally active surface ...
. The Grande Hotel became a refugee camp with most of the refugees coming from rural areas. It is said that some refugees who arrived during the night were overwhelmed in the morning by the view of the ocean, which they had never seen. They tried to walk towards the sea but, never having experienced a multistory building and not comprehending the height differences, they fell to their deaths from the roof terrace. The hotel survived Cyclone Idai in March 2019.


Current status

Since 1992, Mozambique has enjoyed peace and stability. The seaport of Beira is redeveloped and booming due to the transit of minerals to Asia. The Grande Hotel has deteriorated, however. With only 116 hotel rooms, it now provides shelter for a fluctuating population of around 1,077 inhabitants (Ivo 2008), with large families inhabiting a single room. They do not pay any rent and cannot claim a right of ownership. There is little formal maintenance of the collective space, resulting in accumulating garbage, leaking rain water, open elevator shafts and inaccessible stairs. The Olympic swimming pool, now polluted, is used for bathing by inhabitants who cannot afford to buy water at the privately owned water pump opposite the Grande Hotel. According to the local
Red Cross The International Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement is a Humanitarianism, humanitarian movement with approximately 97 million Volunteering, volunteers, members and staff worldwide. It was founded to protect human life and health, to ensure re ...
, there is a high risk of
cholera Cholera is an infection of the small intestine by some strains of the bacterium ''Vibrio cholerae''. Symptoms may range from none, to mild, to severe. The classic symptom is large amounts of watery diarrhea that lasts a few days. Vomiting and ...
,
diarrhoea Diarrhea, also spelled diarrhoea, is the condition of having at least three loose, liquid, or watery bowel movements each day. It often lasts for a few days and can result in dehydration due to fluid loss. Signs of dehydration often begin wi ...
,
HIV/AIDS Human immunodeficiency virus infection and acquired immunodeficiency syndrome (HIV/AIDS) is a spectrum of conditions caused by infection with the human immunodeficiency virus (HIV), a retrovirus. Following initial infection an individual ...
,
malaria Malaria is a mosquito-borne infectious disease that affects humans and other animals. Malaria causes symptoms that typically include fever, tiredness, vomiting, and headaches. In severe cases, it can cause jaundice, seizures, coma, or death. S ...
and
scabies Scabies (; also sometimes known as the seven-year itch) is a contagious skin infestation by the mite ''Sarcoptes scabiei''. The most common symptoms are severe itchiness and a pimple-like rash. Occasionally, tiny burrows may appear on the skin ...
in the Grande Hotel. The water, sewer and electricity infrastructures have been removed and sold in order to obtain money for food and water. The parquet floor is used as fuel for cooking. Most inhabitants find work only in the informal economic sector; they are, as implied by their nickname of 'whato muno' (not from here), excluded from the formal socio-economic life of Beira. As the city's formal economy grows, this puts pressure on the informal economy. It has become harder for Grande Hotel inhabitants to meet basic needs. The nickname 'whato muno' is used in Beira as a derogatory term for the inhabitants of the Grande Hotel. The hotel is considered to be a place where robbers live and where the police do not have any authority. There was at one time an advanced three-layered chief structure which kept order, but this no longer exists. The local municipal secretary of the neighbourhood (who also lives in the Grande Hotel) is now seen as the unofficial chief, but without the power that a chief would normally have in a Mozambique community. These days, there are only two common rules of the Grande Hotel: Respect one another. And, the Grande Hotel is open to anybody who wants shelter. The hotel and its squatters are the subject of the 2007 documentary film '' Night Lodgers''.


Future

The local municipal authority would like to relocate the current inhabitants, providing housing in the slum of Chipangara, and then demolish the structure and develop the land for commercial uses. However, the municipal authority is not the legal owner; neither does it have the funds nor the investors currently willing to participate in this project. Meanwhile, new residents keep coming, and many people remain trapped in the Grande Hotel by poverty, some of them third generation inhabitants.


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Picture gallery

File:Current_situation_of_the_Grande_Hotel,_original_kitchen_on_ground_floor_of_block_D.JPG File:Grande Hotel, in-built shelter at original ballroom March 2012.jpg File:Current_situation_of_the_Grande_Hotel,_use_of_high_polluted_swimming_pool.JPG File:Grande Hotel, interior of original lobby on the ground floor of block A March 2012.jpg File:Current situation of the Grande Hotel, exterior in front of block B.JPG File:Current situation of the Grande Hotel, waste hump on front façade terrace.JPG


References


External links

{{commonscat Architecture:
Robert Cruiming
a
TU Delft Delft University of Technology ( nl, Technische Universiteit Delft), also known as TU Delft, is the oldest and largest Dutch public technical university, located in Delft, Netherlands. As of 2022 it is ranked by QS World University Rankings among ...
architecture Architecture is the art and technique of designing and building, as distinguished from the skills associated with construction. It is both the process and the product of sketching, conceiving, planning, designing, and constructing building ...
student, graduates on the Grande Hotel. His aim is to transfer the Grande Hotel is a more permanent type of dwelling place for the current inhabitants by implementing a new type of livelihood. Film: * Lotte Stoops released in 2010 the documentary Grande Hotel. It was widely acclaimed by critics. Details can be found o
IMDB
and on th
website
* Anabela Saint-Maurice of the Portuguese RTP made in 2007
documentary
of the decay and current status by shooting the first revisit of architect of Francisco de Castro after the independence of Mozambique. * Héctor Mediaville made in 2012
documentary
where three Grande Hotel inhabitants where interviewed about their occupation in the hotel. Photography: * Dutch photographe
Ferry Verheij
made an intriguing photo reportage of the current living conditions of the Grande Hotel. He plans to extent his documentation. * South-African photographer Guy Tillim adde
shots
of the Grande Hotel in his serie 'Avenue Patrice Lumumba'. Published by Prestel Verlag in 2007. * A photo reportage o

2012.
Juan Manuel Castro Prieto
made a photo reportage in 2011. * Lisa King'
contribution
to the Johannes Art Dialogs in 2011.
Photo reportage of Mark Lewis
2011.

2011, published by Agentur Focus. * The Delagoa Bay World website has an article about the Grande Hotel with a collection of pictures
'A Piscina do Grande Hotel na Beira''Inauguração do Grande Hotel da Beira, 1955''A construção do Grande Hotel da Beira, anos 1950''A Beira e a Ponta Gêa''O Grande Hotel na Beira, anos 1960'


of the Grande Hotel and other old places in Beira. * Collection of pictures o
Flickr website
* Reportage about Grande Hotel Beira made in 2013 by Luca Forno ( A.I.R.F. Italian Photo Press Association

. Exhibition : Santa Margherita Ligure, il Castello (City Hall), May/June 2014 * RTHK Documentary of Grande Hotel Beir
五星級的家(The Home of Five-star)
2017 Articles: * CNN Inside Africa reportag
'Former luxury hotel home to thousands of squatters'
By Amy Fallon and Mark Tutton in 2011.
Gutentag article
about a visit to the Grande Hotel in 2007. * Reportage about th
Health festival
in the Grande Hotel by students of the Catholic University of Mozambique in 2011.
'A Beira e o Grande Hotal da Beira'
a detailed historical description on The Delagoa Bay World, 2011.
'We the ones of the Grande Hotel da Beira'
by Marta Lança, 2010.

an article written by Paola Rolletta for Savanna, 2006. Hotel buildings completed in 1954 Hotels in Mozambique Defunct hotels Buildings and structures in Beira, Mozambique Buildings and structures in Sofala Province Squats Portuguese colonial architecture in Mozambique