Gora Kurumdy
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Kurumdy Mountain is a mountain in the
Pamir Mountains The Pamir Mountains are a mountain range between Central Asia and Pakistan. It is located at a junction with other notable mountains, namely the Tian Shan, Karakoram, Kunlun, Hindu Kush and the Himalaya mountain ranges. They are among the world ...
of Central Asia, in the eastern section of the Trans-Alay Range. Kurumdy (Kurumdy I summit) has an elevation of above sea level and sits on the international border between Kyrgyzstan and
China China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. It is the world's most populous country, with a population exceeding 1.4 billion, slightly ahead of India. China spans the equivalent of five time zones and ...
.


Location

Kurumdy is located in the eastern part of the Trans-Alay Range in the
Pamir Mountains The Pamir Mountains are a mountain range between Central Asia and Pakistan. It is located at a junction with other notable mountains, namely the Tian Shan, Karakoram, Kunlun, Hindu Kush and the Himalaya mountain ranges. They are among the world ...
of Central Asia. It is 22 km east of the
Kyzyl-Art Pass Kyzylart Pass (russian: Кызыл-Арт; ky, Кызыл-Арт ашуусу) is a mountain pass and border crossing in the Trans-Alay Range on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. The highest point is 4,280 m (14,042 ft). The border ch ...
. On the northern side flows the East Kyzilsy Glacier with a length of 3,7 km and an area of 69,4 km2.Sowjet. Enzyklopedia (russ.): Курумды
/ref> The Kurumdy Glacier with and is located on the south side and flows to the west. Since territorial changes in 2011 it is the three state summit between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan and
China China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. It is the world's most populous country, with a population exceeding 1.4 billion, slightly ahead of India. China spans the equivalent of five time zones and ...
.


Climbing history

There is some uncertainty concerning the first ascent. An ascent by E. Timashev and party from the south apparently reached the main summit in 1932. However, other sources surmise this party only made it to Kurumdu West (6154 m). On October 1, 2001, Michael Mihajlov and Vitaliy Akimov reached the Kurumdy I summit by climbing a major north ridge. This would be the first ascent if the 1932 ascent was only to Kurumdu West. The first traverse (East-West, 15 days) was accomplished in summer 2015 by the Austrians Markus Gschwendt and Katharina Pfnaisl. This was the second ascent of the main summit (6614 m, 5 August 2015). Further they traversed some 6000 m peaks of which at least two peaks were unclimbed at this time. For the ascent they used a very steep slope east oft the Kurumdy east summits (6384 m, Peak Kathi 6259 m). The descent was done by crossing the west summits (6554 m, 6283 m) and then following a north ridge to Golova Orla 5440 m from where they reached the Basecamp (3770 m)


Information for visitors

For the Area is a border-area-permit necessary (info from 2015) Approach from the north, Kyrgyzstan: Airport in Osh, Taxi to Sari Tash, with Horses to the basecamp on the northern side of the East Kyzilsy Glacier at 3770 m. Water quality can be a problem. Bring a water filter system. There is no easy line to the summit. Success depends much on snow conditions and weather.


See also

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List of Ultras of Central Asia This is a list of the Ultra prominent peaks (with topographic prominence greater than 1,500 metres) in Central Asia. The list is divided topographically rather than politically. There are 75 in total; 21 in the Pamirs, 1 in the Karakum, 5 in the Al ...

Kurumdy @ summitpost.org


References

{{Reflist, refs= {{cite journal , journal = American Alpine Journal , publisher = American Alpine Club , title = Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Zaalayskiy Range, Kurumdy East, North Rib , author = Kleslo, Michal , year = 2009 , url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200924000/Asia-Kyrgyzstan-Pamir-Zaalayskiy-Range-Kurumdy-East-North-Rib , access-date = 15 April 2019 , url-status = live NOTE: While Klesno is the author, the 1932 claim is contained within an editor's note. {{cite journal , journal = American Alpine Journal , publisher = American Alpine Club , title = Traverse of Kurumdy and Unclimbed Satellite Peaks , author = Gschwendt, Markus , year = 2016 , url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213636/Traverse-of-Kurumdy-and-Unclimbed-Satellite-Peaks , access-date = 15 April 2019 , url-status = live {{cite journal , journal = Alpine Journal , publisher = Alpine Club , title = Six and Seventhousanders of the TIen Shan and the Pamirs , page = 126 , author1 = Gippenreiter, Yevgeniy , author2 = Shataev, Vladimir , url = http://alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1996_files/AJ%201996%20122-130%20Gippenreiter%20USSR.pdf , access-date = 15 April 2019 , url-status = live {{cite peakbagger , pid=13164 , name=Gora Kurumdy, Tajikistan, accessdate=15 April 2019 Mountains of Kyrgyzstan Mountains of Tajikistan International mountains of Asia Kyrgyzstan–Tajikistan border Six-thousanders of the Pamir