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Kirkcudbright ( ; sco, Kirkcoubrie; gd, Cille Chùithbeirt) is a town, parish and a Royal Burgh from 1455 in
Kirkcudbrightshire Kirkcudbrightshire ( ), or the County of Kirkcudbright or the Stewartry of Kirkcudbright is one of the historic counties of Scotland, covering an area in the south-west of the country. Until 1975, Kirkcudbrightshire was an administrative count ...
, of which it is traditionally the county town, within Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland. The town lies southwest of
Castle Douglas Castle Douglas ( gd, Caisteal Dhùghlais) is a town in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland. It lies in the lieutenancy area of Kirkcudbrightshire, in the eastern part of Galloway, between the towns of Dalbeattie and Gatehouse of Fleet. It is in th ...
and
Dalbeattie Dalbeattie (, sco, Dawbeattie, gd, Dail Bheithe meaning 'haugh of the birch' or ''Dail'' ''bhàite'' 'drowned (''i.e.'' liable to flood) haugh') is a town in the historical county of Kirkcudbrightshire in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland. Dalbe ...
at the mouth of the River Dee, around from the
Irish Sea The Irish Sea or , gv, Y Keayn Yernagh, sco, Erse Sie, gd, Muir Èireann , Ulster-Scots: ''Airish Sea'', cy, Môr Iwerddon . is an extensive body of water that separates the islands of Ireland and Great Britain. It is linked to the Ce ...
.


History

An early rendition of the name of the town was Kilcudbrit; this derives from the Gaelic ''Cille Chuithbeirt'' meaning "chapel of
Cuthbert Cuthbert of Lindisfarne ( – 20 March 687) was an Anglo-Saxon saint of the early Northumbrian church in the Celtic tradition. He was a monk, bishop and hermit, associated with the monasteries of Melrose and Lindisfarne in the Kingdom of Nort ...
", the saint whose mortal remains were kept at the town between their exhumation at Lindisfarne and reinterment at
Chester-le-Street Chester-le-Street (), also known as Chester, is a market town and civil parish in County Durham, England, around north of Durham and also close to Sunderland and Newcastle upon Tyne. It is located on the River Wear, which runs out to sea at ...
.
John Spottiswoode John Spottiswoode (Spottiswood, Spotiswood, Spotiswoode or Spotswood) (1565 – 26 November 1639) was an Archbishop of St Andrews, Primate of All Scotland, Lord Chancellor, and historian of Scotland. Life He was born in 1565 at Greenbank in ...
, in his account of religious houses in Scotland, mentions that the
Franciscan , image = FrancescoCoA PioM.svg , image_size = 200px , caption = A cross, Christ's arm and Saint Francis's arm, a universal symbol of the Franciscans , abbreviation = OFM , predecessor = , ...
s, or Grey Friars, had been established at Kirkcudbright from the 12th century.
John Balliol John Balliol ( – late 1314), known derisively as ''Toom Tabard'' (meaning "empty coat" – coat of arms), was King of Scots from 1292 to 1296. Little is known of his early life. After the death of Margaret, Maid of Norway, Scotland entered an ...
was in possession of the ancient castle at Castledykes in the late 13th century and
Edward I of England Edward I (17/18 June 1239 – 7 July 1307), also known as Edward Longshanks and the Hammer of the Scots, was King of England and Lord of Ireland from 1272 to 1307. Concurrently, he ruled the duchies of Aquitaine and Gascony as a vas ...
is said to have stayed here in 1300 during his war against Scotland. In 1455 Kirkcudbright became a
Royal Burgh A royal burgh () was a type of Scottish burgh which had been founded by, or subsequently granted, a royal charter. Although abolished by law in 1975, the term is still used by many former royal burghs. Most royal burghs were either created by ...
. About a century later, the magistrates of the town obtained permission from Queen Mary to use part of the convent and nunnery as a parish church. From around 1570, Sir Thomas MacLellan of Bombie, the chief magistrate, received a charter for the site, its grounds and gardens. MacLellan dismantled the church in order to obtain material for his new castle, a very fine house, which was built on the site. After defeat at the
Battle of Towton The Battle of Towton took place on 29 March 1461 during the Wars of the Roses, near Towton in North Yorkshire, and "has the dubious distinction of being probably the largest and bloodiest battle on English soil". Fought for ten hours between ...
, Henry VI of England crossed the
Solway Firth The Solway Firth ( gd, Tràchd Romhra) is a firth that forms part of the border between England and Scotland, between Cumbria (including the Solway Plain) and Dumfries and Galloway. It stretches from St Bees Head, just south of Whitehaven ...
in August 1461 to land at Kirkcudbright in support of Queen Margaret at
Linlithgow Linlithgow (; gd, Gleann Iucha, sco, Lithgae) is a town in West Lothian, Scotland. It was historically West Lothian's county town, reflected in the county's historical name of Linlithgowshire. An ancient town, it lies in the Central Belt on a ...
. The town for some time withstood a siege in 1547 from the English commander Sir Thomas Carleton but, after the surrounding countryside had been overrun, was compelled to surrender.
Kirkcudbright Tolbooth Kirkcudbright Tolbooth is a historic municipal building in Kirkcudbright in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland. Built between 1627 and 1629 to serve the town as a centre of commercial administration, a meeting place for the council, and a prison, ...
was built between 1625 and 1629 and served not only as the
tolbooth A tolbooth or town house was the main municipal building of a Scottish burgh, from medieval times until the 19th century. The tolbooth usually provided a council meeting chamber, a court house and a jail. The tolbooth was one of three esse ...
, but also the council offices, the burgh and sheriff courts, the criminal prison and the debtors' prison. One of the most famous prisoners was
John Paul Jones John Paul Jones (born John Paul; July 6, 1747 July 18, 1792) was a Scottish-American naval captain who was the United States' first well-known naval commander in the American Revolutionary War. He made many friends among U.S political elites ( ...
, founder of the
United States Navy The United States Navy (USN) is the maritime service branch of the United States Armed Forces and one of the eight uniformed services of the United States. It is the largest and most powerful navy in the world, with the estimated tonnage ...
, who was born in
Kirkbean Kirkbean ( gd, Cille Bheathain) is a Scottish village and civil parish on the Solway Firth, in the historic county of Kirkcudbrightshire and council area of Dumfries and Galloway. In the 2001 census, the four small villages making up the parish ...
. The Tolbooth was superseded as the county's main administrative building by a new courthouse at 85 High Street, built in 1788 and rebuilt in 1868, which then served as the meeting place of Kirkcudbrightshire County Council from its creation in 1890 until 1952 when the council moved its meeting place to County Buildings. The Johnston School was the town primary school until replaced with a new build in 2009. The school was endowed with a bequest by Kirkcudbright merchant and shipowner William Johnston (1769- 1845) and opened in 1847 as Johnston's Free School. The building was designed by Edinburgh architect
James Newlands James Newlands (28 July 1813 – 15 July 1871) was a Scottish civil engineer who worked in Liverpool as the first Borough Engineer appointed in the United Kingdom, and is credited with designing and implementing the first integrated sewerage ...
(1813-1871) who later went on to be the first Borough Engineer for Liverpool where he designed and built the first integrated sewerage system in the world in 1848. The school building was rebuilt, retaining the
Italianate The Italianate style was a distinct 19th-century phase in the history of Classical architecture. Like Palladianism and Neoclassicism, the Italianate style drew its inspiration from the models and architectural vocabulary of 16th-century Italian ...
tower and façade in 1933 by William A MacKinnell, (1871-1940). He was the County Architect for Kirkcudbrightshire and built many schools in the Stewartry. In 2020 the building was refurbished as a Community Activity and Resource Centre. The building is listed building, Listed Category B. St Andrew's and St Cuthbert's Church was designed in 1886 by London architect A E Purdie (1843-1920), in the Gothic style. It was built on the site of the medieval St Andrew's Church. In 1971 the interior was re-ordered and stripped of its Victorian fixtures and fittings and now features an abstract concrete and iron cross by the Liverpool sculptor Sean Rice (1931-1997), modern stained glass by the Polish artist Jerzy Faczynski (1917-1994) and a set of four paintings by Vivien K. Chapman depicting The Passion of Christ. The Kirkcudbright railway station, Kirkcudbright Railway opened in 1864 but the railway line and station closed in 1965. Kirkcudbright Town Hall was designed by architects John Dick Peddie, Peddie and Charles Kinnear, Kinnear. It was completed in 1879 and is a Category B listed building. It has since been converted into the Kirkcudbright Galleries, a new facility which was opened by the Anne, Princess Royal, Princess Royal on 12 July 2018. Kirkcudbright war memorial, The war memorial dates from 1921 and was created by the sculptor George Henry Paulin.


Kirkcudbright training area

Like many other remote areas during the World War II, Second World War, a area to the southeast of the town and extending to the coast of the
Solway Firth The Solway Firth ( gd, Tràchd Romhra) is a firth that forms part of the border between England and Scotland, between Cumbria (including the Solway Plain) and Dumfries and Galloway. It stretches from St Bees Head, just south of Whitehaven ...
, was acquired by the Army in 1942, as a training area for the Normandy landings, D-Day invasion. The area remains in active use for live-firing exercises. Part of the training area is the Dundrennan Range, a weapons development and testing range. The use of this range for the testing of depleted uranium shells has been controversial. The range also contains a surviving Tortoise heavy assault tank, A39 Tortoise heavy assault tank.


Museums

Broughton House is an 18th-century town house standing on the High Street. It was the home of Scots impressionist artist Edward Atkinson Hornel between 1901 and his death in 1933. National Trust for Scotland, The National Trust for Scotland maintain the house and its contents as a museum of Hornel's life and work. The Stewartry Museum was founded in 1879 and was at first based in the Town Hall until it became too small to house the collections. The collection moved to a purpose-built site. It contains the local and natural history of the Stewartry of Kirkcudbright. Britain's earliest surviving sporting trophy, the Siller Gun, is part of the collection. The Tolbooth building is now used as an arts centre.


Arts


Kirkcudbright Artists' Town

Kirkcudbright has for long been a centre for visual artists and is now known as "the Artists' Town".Artists' Town official website
Kirkcudbright. Retrieved 22 June 2011.
The main routes into the town include brown tourist signs saying "Artists' Town". Kirkcudbright is home to an artists' collective which has a shop in the town centre, The PA, Professional Artists Collective. Wasps (Workshop & Artists Studio Provision Scotland) occupy two linked townhouses, Canonwalls and Claverhouse, in the High Street. It is also a centre in which many artists open their studios during Spring Fling Open Studios. The Kirkcudbright Arts & Crafts Trail takes place every summer. This four-day event, finishing on the first Monday in August, allows visitors to see artists' studios and visit places that are normally off-limits to visitors.


Galleries

Galleries in Kirkcudbright include Kirkcudbright Galleries, in the former Town Hall, in St Mary Street. There is also The Harbour Cottage Gallery.


Cinema and literature

The 1907 novel Little Esson by S. R. Crockett, S.R.Crockett is a romantic mystery involving the artistic community of Kirkcudbright. The title character Archibald Esson is a fictionalised version of William Stewart MacGeorge, Crockett's boyhood friend. The later whodunit ''Five Red Herrings'' by Dorothy L. Sayers also involves the artistic community of Kirkcudbright. In 1975, the book was made into a BBC TV film shot in the town, with Ian Carmichael playing the lead role of Lord Peter Wimsey. The town also provided locations for the cult 1973 horror film ''The Wicker Man (1973 film), The Wicker Man''. Robert Urquhart (actor), Robert Urquhart starred in a 1980 BBC adaptation of Henrik Ibsen, Ibsen's ''An Enemy of the People'', shot on location in Kirkcudbright.


Music

Matt McGinn wrote and recorded "The Wee Kirkcudbright Centipede" which has also been covered by other singers including Alastair McDonald (musician), Alistair McDonald on disc and on his BBC Scotland show ''Songs of Scotland'', which included a segment filmed on location at the town's Johnston Primary School where McDonald led the children in a dance sequence.


Notable people


Artists

Kirkcudbright has had a long association with the Glasgow art movement. Several artists, including the Glasgow Boys and the famed Scottish Colourists, such as Samuel Peploe and Francis Cadell (artist), Francis Cadell, based themselves in the area over a 30-year period from 1880 to 1910, establishing the Kirkcudbright Artists' Colony. Also among those who moved here from Glasgow were Edward Atkinson Hornel, Edward Hornel, George Henry (painter), George Henry and Jessie M. King. Later another small group of Glasgow-trained artists built their studios across the river at The Stell, including John Charles Lamont and Robert Sivell. Landscape painter Charles Oppenheimer moved to Kirkcudbright in 1908. He is given credit along with artist Dorothy Nesbitt for protecting the Harbour Cottage (art) Gallery from demolition in 1956. Kirkcudbright became known as "the artists' town". Other artists include: *Joseph Simpson (artist), Joseph Simpson (1879–1939) British painter and etcher of portraits and sporting subjects. *Phyllis Bone RSA (15 February 1894 – 12 July 1972) was a 20th-century Scottish sculptor. She moved to Galloway and lived in later life in Kirkcudbright. *William Hanna Clarke, a landscape and figure painter who lived in Kirkcudbright, and many of his works featured the town. He is buried in the town's churchyard and his tombstone was carved by his friend Alexander Proudfoot, a Glasgow sculptor.


Sportspeople

* Bob McDougall, George Cloy and David Mathieson are professional footballers who lived in the town.McCartney, I (2008) Queen of the South: The History 1919–2008, Staffordshire: The Breedon Books Publishing Company Limited * David MacMyn, Scottish rugby international, was from Kirkcudbright.


Others

*Malcolm Caldwell, born James Alexander Malcolm Caldwell (1931-1978) was a British academic and a prolific Marxist writer. Caldwell was murdered, under mysterious circumstances, a few hours after meeting Pol Pot in Cambodia. His father, Archibald Thomson Caldwell was County Architect for Kirkcudbrightshire from 1950 until his death in 1957. Caldwell was Dux of Kirkcudbright Academy in 1949. * Cecil Coles (1888 – 1918), a composer who was born in Kirkcudbright and killed on active service in the World War I, First World War. * Marriott Edgar, the lyricist and poet who wrote, amongst other things, Albert and the Lion for Stanley Holloway, was born in Kirkcudbright in 1880. * John Erskine, 1st Baron Erskine of Rerrick, banker and Governor of Northern Ireland * T. E. Lawrence ''(Lawrence of Arabia)'', lived in infancy with his family between 1889 and 1891 in Craigville, St Mary's Street. His brother William George was born here in 1889. * Gary Lewis (actor), Gary Lewis actor, ''Gangs of New York'', ''Billy Elliot'', etc. lives in Kirkcudbright.


Sport

Kirkcudbright is represented in the South of Scotland Football League by St Cuthbert Wanderers F.C., St Cuthbert Wanderers FC. It was founded by parishioners of St Cuthbert Catholic Church. The club's best-known former players are Bob McDougall, Billy Halliday and David Mathieson.


2019 Tour of Britain

The first stage from Glasgow of the 2019 Tour of Britain, Tour of Britain 2019 ended in Kirkcudbright on 7 September. The winner was Dutchman Dylan Groenewegen.


References


External links


Visit Kirkcudbright Website

Kirkcudbright Community WebsitePhyllis Mary Bone (1894 – 1972)Kirkcudbright Artists' TownJoseph W Simpson - Kirkcudbright Galleries , Dumfries and Galloway , Artists , GalleryspacesSecond Lieutenant William George Lawrence , War Casualty Details 320810 , CWGC

{{Authority control Kirkcudb Towns in Dumfries and Galloway Royal burghs Galloway Kirkcudbrightshire Parishes in Dumfries and Galloway County towns in Scotland Populated coastal places in Scotland