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Ardnamurchan (, gd, Àird nam Murchan: headland of the great seas) is a
peninsula A peninsula (; ) is a landform that extends from a mainland and is surrounded by water on most, but not all of its borders. A peninsula is also sometimes defined as a piece of land bordered by water on three of its sides. Peninsulas exist on all ...
in the
ward management area Ward may refer to: Division or unit * Hospital ward, a hospital division, floor, or room set aside for a particular class or group of patients, for example the psychiatric ward * Prison ward, a division of a penal institution such as a priso ...
of Lochaber,
Highland Highlands or uplands are areas of high elevation such as a mountainous region, elevated mountainous plateau or high hills. Generally speaking, upland (or uplands) refers to ranges of hills, typically from up to while highland (or highlands) is ...
, Scotland, noted for being very unspoiled and undisturbed. Its remoteness is accentuated by the main access route being a
single track road A single-track road or one-lane road is a road that permits two-way travel but is not wide enough in most places to allow vehicles to pass one another (although sometimes two compact cars can pass). This kind of road is common in rural areas ...
for much of its length. The most westerly point of mainland Great Britain,
Corrachadh Mòr ETRS89 (; ) is a headland on the peninsula in Lochaber, Highland, Scotland, notable for being the most westerly point on the island of Great Britain. It is further west than Land's End in Cornwall. Depending on which coordinates are used ...
, is in Ardnamurchan. From 1930 to 1975 Ardnamurchan also gave its name to a
landward district ''Landward'' is a long-running Scottish television programme focusing on agricultural and rural issues, produced and broadcast by BBC Scotland. Overview BBC Scotland had first produced its own farming programme, ''Farm Forum'', in 1965. This was ...
of Argyll, which covered a much wider area, including the districts of
Morvern Morvern, historically also spelt Morven, is a peninsula and traditional district in the Highlands, on the west coast of Scotland. It lies south of the districts of Ardgour and Sunart, and is bounded on the north by Loch Sunart and Glen Tarbert, ...
, Sunart and Ardgour.


Geography

Strictly speaking, Ardnamurchan covers only the peninsula beyond the villages of Salen (in the south) and Acharacle (in the north), but nowadays the term is also used more generally to include the neighbouring districts of Sunart, Ardgour, Morvern, and even
Moidart Moidart ( ; ) is part of the remote and isolated area of Scotland, west of Fort William, known as the Rough Bounds. Moidart itself is almost surrounded by bodies of water. Loch Shiel cuts off the eastern boundary of the district (along a south ...
(which was part of the former county of Inverness-shire, not Argyll). Ardnamurchan Point, which has the
Ardnamurchan Lighthouse Ardnamurchan Lighthouse is a listed 19th century lighthouse, located on Ardnamurchan Point in Lochaber part of the Highland council area of Scotland. The lighthouse with its , pink granite tower was completed in 1849 to a design by Alan Steven ...
built on it, is commonly described as the most westerly point of the
British mainland Great Britain is an island in the North Atlantic Ocean off the northwest coast of continental Europe. With an area of , it is the largest of the British Isles, the largest European island and the ninth-largest island in the world. It is d ...
although
Corrachadh Mòr ETRS89 (; ) is a headland on the peninsula in Lochaber, Highland, Scotland, notable for being the most westerly point on the island of Great Britain. It is further west than Land's End in Cornwall. Depending on which coordinates are used ...
, a kilometre to the south, is a few metres farther west.


Geology

The north western corner of Ardnamurchan consists of a lopolith (previously interpreted as a ring dyke) that has been exposed at the surface. Evidence for such a structure can be identified from the phenocrysts in the rock exposures around the area of interest which show plagioclase crystals aligned towards the centre of the complex, an alignment caused by magmatic flow within a lopolith. Relatively small areas of lava that were ejected onto the surface are found in some parts of the peninsula, close to the inner edges of the area of interest. The sub-concentric rings of the geologic structure can easily be seen in satellite photographs and on topographic maps, though they are less obvious on the ground. At least seven other similar complexes of the same tectonic episode exist along the west coast of Britain, and these are popular sites for many university geological training courses.


History

Adomnan of Iona records
St Columba Columba or Colmcille; gd, Calum Cille; gv, Colum Keeilley; non, Kolban or at least partly reinterpreted as (7 December 521 – 9 June 597 AD) was an Irish abbot and missionary evangelist credited with spreading Christianity in what is toda ...
visiting the peninsula in the 6th century, and gives the impression that it was settled by Irish Gaels at that time. He records three instances of signs performed by Columba on the peninsula. Adomnan records in one instance that Columba prophesied to his companions the death of Kings
Báetán mac Muirchertaig Báetán mac Muirchertaig (died 572), also Baetán Bríge, was an Irish king who is included in some lists as a High King of Ireland. He was the son of Muirchertach mac Muiredaig (died 534), also considered a high king. He was a member of the C ...
and
Eochaid mac Domnaill Eochaid mac Domnaill (died 572), also Eochaid Find ("the fair"), was an Irish king who is included in some lists as a High King of Ireland. He was the son of Domnall Ilchelgach (died 566) and grandson of Muirchertach mac Muiredaig (died 534), also ...
before news arrived the same day at a place called 'paradise bay' to tell them the news. In the second instance, which is said to have occurred in an unnamed rocky spot in the interior, the parents of a boy brought their child to Columba to be baptized but no water could be found, and Columba prayed to God and water miraculously came out of a nearby rock and he prophesied that the child would live a sinful life and later be a saint.Adomnan of Iona. Life of St Columba. (trans. by Richard Sharpe) Penguin books, 1995 In the third instance, which took place at a spot Adomnan called 'Sharp bay', there was a wicked man named Ioan mac Conaill maic Domnaill who was related to the Cenél nGabraín, and this man attacked Columba's friend and plundered his goods. Columba met this wicked man and called on him to repent, but he didn't listen and instead boarded his boat with the stolen goods. Columba then followed the boat, wading into the water up to his knees and prayed to God. He then prophesied to his companions that this man and his boat were going to meet with disaster on the sea, and according to Adomnan, the boat was sunk before reaching land with Ioan drowning at sea along with his stolen goods. Donaldson identifies "Buarblaig" (now referred to as Bourblaige, about east of
Kilchoan Kilchoan ( gd, Cille Chòmhain) is a village on the Scottish peninsula of Ardnamurchan, beside the Sound of Mull in Lochaber, Highland. It is the most westerly village in mainland Britain, although several tiny hamlets lie further west on the ...
on the other side of Ben Hiant, ) with Muribulg, where the Annals of Tigernach record a battle between the Picts and the Dalriads in 731. It may also be the 'Muirbole Paradisi' mentioned by
Adomnán Adomnán or Adamnán of Iona (, la, Adamnanus, Adomnanus; 624 – 704), also known as Eunan ( ; from ), was an abbot of Iona Abbey ( 679–704), hagiographer, statesman, canon jurist, and saint. He was the author of the ''Life of Co ...
. Although its stone foundations still remain, the village of Bourblaige no longer exists, as it was destroyed in the
Highland Clearances The Highland Clearances ( gd, Fuadaichean nan Gàidheal , the "eviction of the Gaels") were the evictions of a significant number of tenants in the Scottish Highlands and Islands, mostly in two phases from 1750 to 1860. The first phase resulte ...
in the early 19th century. According to early twentieth-century tradition in Ardnamurchan, two battles were fought in the bays between Gortenfern () and Sgeir a' Chaolais (). Archaeological finds in the vicinity of Cul na Croise ()—a bay between Sgeir a Chaolais and Sgeir nam Meann—consist of spears, daggers, arrow-heads, and a coin dating to the reign of
Edward I, King of England Edward I (17/18 June 1239 – 7 July 1307), also known as Edward Longshanks and the Hammer of the Scots, was King of England and Lord of Ireland from 1272 to 1307. Concurrently, he ruled the duchies of Aquitaine and Gascony as a vassa ...
. These artefacts could indicate that Cul na Croise was the site of conflict fought in the context of the strife between Edward I's representative,
Alasdair Óg Mac Domhnaill Alasdair is a Scottish Gaelic given name. The name is a Gaelic form of ''Alexander'' which has long been a popular name in Scotland. The personal name ''Alasdair'' is often Anglicised as ''Alistair'', '' Alastair'', and ''Alaster''.''A Dictionary ...
, and the
Clann Ruaidhrí Clann Ruaidhrí was a leading medieval clan in the Hebrides and the western seaboard of Scotland. The eponymous ancestor of the family was Ruaidhrí mac Raghnaill, a principal member of Clann Somhairle in the thirteenth century. Members of Clan ...
brothers,
Lachlann Mac Ruaidhrí Lachlann Mac Ruaidhrí (fl. 1297 – 1307/1308) was a Scottish magnate and Scottish clan chief, chief of Clann Ruaidhrí. He was a free-booting participant in the First War of Scottish Independence, who remarkably took up arms against figures su ...
and
Ruaidhrí Mac Ruaidhrí Ruaidhrí Mac Ruaidhrí (died 14 October 1318?) was a fourteenth-century Scottish magnate and chief of Clann Ruaidhrí. He was an illegitimate son of Ailéan mac Ruaidhrí, and is recorded to have participated in the kindred's military actions a ...
. According to tradition, one of the battles fought in the area concerned a certain "Red Rover", and another fought nearby concerned an Irishman named "Duing" or "Dewing". Relics of a Viking ship burial in Cul na Croise have been given to the
West Highland Museum The West Highland Museum ( gd, Taigh-tasgaidh na Gàidhealtachd an Iar) tells the story of the Scottish Highlands and the Islands. It aims to cover every aspect of West Highland history, including that of Fort William, where it is located in a ...
at Fort William. In 2011, a Viking ship burial, probably from the 10th century, was unearthed at Port an Eilean Mhòir on Ardnamurchan. Grave goods buried alongside a Viking warrior found in the boat suggest he was a high-ranking warrior. The Ardnamurchan Viking was found buried with an axe, a
sword A sword is an edged, bladed weapon intended for manual cutting or thrusting. Its blade, longer than a knife or dagger, is attached to a hilt and can be straight or curved. A thrusting sword tends to have a straighter blade with a pointed ti ...
with a decorated hilt, a spear, a shield boss and a bronze ring pin. Other finds in the grave in Ardnamurchan included a knife, what could be the tip of a bronze drinking horn, a whetstone from Norway, a ring pin from Ireland and Viking Age pottery.


Settlements

The population of the whole peninsula is around 2000. Historically part of the former county of Argyll, it is now part of the Lochaber ward management area of the Highland local authority. Villages in Ardnamurchan: * Acharacle () *
Achnaha Achnaha ( gd, Achadh na h-Àtha) is a remote village in Ardnamurchan, Lochaber, in the Scottish council area of Highland Highlands or uplands are areas of high elevation such as a mountainous region, elevated mountainous plateau or high hills. ...
() *
Glenborrodale Glenborrodale ( gd, Gleann Bhorghdail) is a coastal community on Loch Sunart in the south of the Ardnamurchan peninsula in the Scottish Highlands, Highland area of Scotland. It gives its name to a Royal Society for the Protection of Birds' rese ...
() *
Kilchoan Kilchoan ( gd, Cille Chòmhain) is a village on the Scottish peninsula of Ardnamurchan, beside the Sound of Mull in Lochaber, Highland. It is the most westerly village in mainland Britain, although several tiny hamlets lie further west on the ...
() * Kilmory () * Laga () *
Ockle Ockle ( gd, Ocal) is a remote hamlet, situated on the northcoast of the Ardnamurchan peninsula, Scottish Highlands and is in the Scottish council area of Highland. Ockle lies northeast of Kilchoan on the southern coast of the peninsula. The pub ...
() *
Portuairk Portuairk () is a crofting township, at the western end of the Ardnamurchan peninsula, Lochaber, Highland, Scotland. It is the most westerly settlement on the British mainland, although nearby Kilchoan is the most westerly village. Overlooking ...
() * Salen () * Sanna ()


Scottish Gaelic

Ardnamurchan has one of the highest concentrations of Scottish Gaelic speakers on the mainland, with 19.3% of the local population able to speak the language. The peninsula is also home to an annual
Mòd A mòd is an Eisteddfod-inspired festival of Scottish Gaelic song, arts and culture. Historically, the Gaelic word ''mòd'' (), which came from Old Norse ''mót'', refers to a Viking Age ''Thing'' or a similar kind of assembly. There are both lo ...
, an eisteddfod-like festival and series of contests celebrating the Gaelic language, its culture, music, and literature. Ardnamurchan has also been the home to a number of important figures in Scottish Gaelic literature. Prior to his involvement in the Jacobite rising of 1745, the legendary Gaelic poet Alasdair mac Mhaighstir Alasdair worked a schoolmaster for the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge in
Kilchoan Kilchoan ( gd, Cille Chòmhain) is a village on the Scottish peninsula of Ardnamurchan, beside the Sound of Mull in Lochaber, Highland. It is the most westerly village in mainland Britain, although several tiny hamlets lie further west on the ...
, where his father had previously served as
Rector Rector (Latin for the member of a vessel's crew who steers) may refer to: Style or title *Rector (ecclesiastical), a cleric who functions as an administrative leader in some Christian denominations *Rector (academia), a senior official in an edu ...
for the
Jacobite Jacobite means follower of Jacob or James. Jacobite may refer to: Religion * Jacobites, followers of Saint Jacob Baradaeus (died 578). Churches in the Jacobite tradition and sometimes called Jacobite include: ** Syriac Orthodox Church, sometimes ...
and High Church Non-Juring Anglican Communion. Dr
John MacLachlan John is a common English name and surname: * John (given name) * John (surname) John may also refer to: New Testament Works * Gospel of John, a title often shortened to John * First Epistle of John, often shortened to 1 John * Second ...
, the author of , a poem on the Ardnamurchan Clearances, is unusual for his outspoken criticism of the
Anglo-Scottish Anglo is a prefix indicating a relation to, or descent from, the Angles, England, English culture, the English people or the English language, such as in the term ''Anglosphere''. It is often used alone, somewhat loosely, to refer to people o ...
landlords responsible for the evictions. The poem influenced Somhairle MacGill-Eain, who wrote a poem to its author.


Economy

Ardnamurchan distillery is a
Scotch whisky Scotch whisky (; sco, Scots whisky/whiskie, whusk(e)y; often simply called whisky or Scotch) is malt whisky or grain whisky (or a blend of the two), made in Scotland. All Scotch whisky was originally made from malted barley. Commercial distil ...
distillery Distillation, or classical distillation, is the process of separating the components or substances from a liquid mixture by using selective boiling and condensation, usually inside an apparatus known as a still. Dry distillation is the heati ...
located on the peninsula.


Culture

The peninsula has its own
shinty Shinty ( gd, camanachd, iomain) is a team game played with sticks and a ball. Shinty is now played mainly in the Scottish Highlands and amongst Highland migrants to the big cities of Scotland, but it was formerly more widespread in Scotland, an ...
team,
Ardnamurchan Camanachd Ardnamurchan Camanachd is a shinty club based in Strontian, Ardnamurchan. The club covers a wide but sparsely populated area taking in Strontian, Ardgour, Morvern, Acharacle and Moidart: all in Lochaber, Highland, Scotland. It was established in 2 ...
.


Fauna and scenery

Rare species such as the wildcat, pine marten, golden eagle and white-tailed eagle can be seen in Ardnamurchan. Ardnamurchan is wild and unspoiled. Ardnamurchan Point, adjacent to the most westerly point on the British mainland, has a lighthouse and a view from a sheer rock face of the open Atlantic Ocean. The northern part of Ardnamurchan forms part of the Morar, Moidart and Ardnamurchan National Scenic Area, one of 40 such areas in Scotland, which are defined so as to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure their protection by restricting certain forms of development.


Famous people

*The geologist Donald Duff
FRSE Fellowship of the Royal Society of Edinburgh (FRSE) is an award granted to individuals that the Royal Society of Edinburgh, Scotland's national academy of science and letters, judged to be "eminently distinguished in their subject". This soci ...
(1927–98) bought a house there after surveying the area in the 1950s. *The button box
accordion Accordions (from 19th-century German ''Akkordeon'', from ''Akkord''—"musical chord, concord of sounds") are a family of box-shaped musical instruments of the bellows-driven free-reed aerophone type (producing sound as air flows past a reed ...
player,
Fergie MacDonald Fergie MacDonald MBE (born 1938, Glasgow, Scotland) is a Scottish accordionist who specializes in ceilidh music and plays the button key accordion. A trained physiotherapist and an international clay pigeon shooter, MacDonald is considered to ...
, is from the area. *The preacher
J. Douglas MacMillan J. Douglas MacMillan (30 September 1933 – 3 August 1991) was a British Christian minister in the Free Church of Scotland. Life MacMillan was born the youngest of six children, on the Ardnamurchan peninsula in Argyll. He was converted at ...
came from Ardnamurchan. *The cameraman, CBeebies presenter and Strictly contestant
Hamza Yassin Hamza Ahmed Yassin (born 22 February 1990) is a Sudanese-British wildlife cameraman and presenter, known for his role as Ranger Hamza on the children's television channel CBeebies and his work on shows such as ''Countryfile'' and ''Animal Park' ...
has lived in the area for 12 years


See also

*
List of listed buildings in Ardnamurchan This is a list of listed buildings in the parish of Ardnamurchan in Highland, Scotland. List Key See also * List of listed buildings in Highland This is a list of listed buildings in the Highland council area ...


Notes and references


External links


Ardnamurchan Tourist AssociationAll about Ardnamurchan
{{DEFAULTSORT:Ardnamurchan National scenic areas of Scotland Sites of Special Scientific Interest in South Lochaber Volcanoes of Scotland Eocene volcanoes Extinct volcanoes Complex volcanoes Highland Estates